
Glass 



Zuj^- 



Book „_3a:5l5_ 



TRAVELS 



,"•'■5 



THE UNITED STATES, 



ETC. 



HDnvins 18 i 9 an^ 185 0. 



BY THE 



LADY EMMELINE STUART WORTLEY. 






NEW YORK: 

TIARPER & BROTPIERS, PUBLISHERS, 
8 CLIFF S T U E E T. 

1 S o ] . 



€'ljiii 'iJnlninr iii DrMrntt^ 



TO THE 



COUA^TESS OF CHESTERFIELD, 



BY 



HER MOST AFFECTIONATK COUSIN, 

THE AUTHORESS. 



^ ,'c.^^^'^ 



PREFACE. 



I LEFT England fully determined against writing a book of 
travels, nay, I would not even keep a Journal during our wan- 
derings, lest I should be tempted to jot down, and ultimately to 
publish, my impressions of the' society and institutions in those 
countries which it was our good fortune to visit ; but since our 
return to England, friends, to whose better judgment I am bound 
to defer, have pressed me so strongly to prmt the letters which I 
had written during our excursion, that I have consented to do so, 
after adding somewhat, to give them the usual narrative form, 
and dividing them into chapters. This will account for the 
familiar tone of the Work, and for occasional repetitions. 

For the politician or philosopher these pages will, I fear, have 
little or no interest ; written familiarly to relatives and friends at 
home, their staple is the gossip of travel ; and if they amuse that 
large class to whom gossip is welcome, and tend in any way to 
strengthen kindly feelings in the breasts of my English readers 
toward the people from whom their wandering countrywoman 
received so much and such constant courtesy and hospitality, I 
shall not regret giving to the world this Work. 

Belvoir Castle, isrjl. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 
Arrival at New York— First View of Broadway— Summer Costume of tLa 
Ladies— Description of New York— Its Suburbs and Islands— Its Fortifica- 
tions—Prepare to start for Niagara 13 

CHAPTEU II. 

Detained at Albany— Wreck of the "Empire" Steamer— American Indiffer- 
ence to human Life — The theatrical Riot and Massacre caused by Mr. For- 
rest's Jealousy of Macready— Sympathy of the Lady for the Captain of the 
"Empire"— Hish-sounding Names of Towns— The Hudson— Hotels at Al- 
bany-Description of Albany 17 

CHAPTER in. 

Difficulty of conveying the Impression caused by a first View of the Falls of 
Nia-^ara- An Attempt to do so— The Falls described— A Thunder-Storm 
over' the great Cataracts— The Rainbow— Kindness and Courtesy of the 
Americans— Their Spirit of Enterprise— Luxurious Appointments of Ameri- 
can Steamers— The Dimensions of the Falls— Goat Island— auantity of 
Water precipitated over the Falls— Grand and Navy Islands 21 

CHAPTER IV. 

Fort Talbot— Canadian Carriages— Vast Extent of American 'Woods— The 
Hotel at Port Stanley— Lake Erie— Mr. A and his Family— Col. Tal- 
bot, the " Last of the Mohicans"— Instance of the Memory of North Ameri- 
can Indians— Another Story of the same Kind— A Recurrence to Niagara — 
A second Thunder-Storm— American Forests— Lake Erie by Sunset — The 

Maple, and the Sugar made from it— Coidness of Canadian Winters 27 

CHAPTER V. 

Return to New York— Courtesy and Hospitality of the Americans— Butter- 
flies and Hummingbirds— Railroads through American Forests— Rapid 
progress of American Civilization — Port Stanley — Captain Bawbee — De- 
scription of Butfalo- Trading Facilities of that City— The United States' 
Military Academy — Monument to Kosciusko — His Garden— West Point 

The "Traitor Arnold, and Major Andre — Constitution Island — Oppressive 

Heat of the Weather 32 

CHAPTER VL 

Boston— The Park— The Tremont Hotel— Its luxurious Appointments— Mr. 
and Mrs. Abbott Lawrence— The "Book of the World"— Description of 
Boston; the Bridges— Tlieir immense Length— The "Western Avenue- 
Boston Harbor— Anticipated Rejoicings on the Anniversary of American 
Independence— Boston Newspapers and Reviews— Supply of Water to 
the City— Its Docks and Wharves— Public Buildings— The State House— 
The Custom House— The Athenaeum- The Exchange and Lowell Institute 
—The crowded Stores— Constant Alarm of Fires 36 

CHAPTER VIL 
Plans for the Future— Musical Taste of the New Englanders— Cholera in 
New York — Transparency of the American Atmosphere — American News- 
papers — Their Personalities — A signal Instance — Mrs. S. M of New 

York, and her family— Miss G of Boston— The loud Talking ascnhed 

to American Ladies — The Town of Gloucester — Its Trade 42 r 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Return to Boston — Fire Engines and their Horses — The Cradle of American 
Liberty— Faneuil Hall— Boston Prohibition of Street-smoking — Statue of 



CONTENTS. 



Washington in the State House — Anecdote connected with it — A Drum pre- 
served in the State House — Visit to Cambridge — Mount Auburn — Hai^vard 
University — Professors Pierce, Sillimau, Guyon, Sparks, and Agassiz — 
Live Coral Insects preserved by Professor Agassiz — Reflections suggested 
by them — Museum of Professor Agassiz 45 

CHAPTER IX. 
Plymouth — The Pilgi-im Fathers — Mrs. Warr?n, a Descendant of one of the 
Pilgrims — Visit from Mr. Presoott the Historian— Graves of the Pilgrim 
Fathers — Visits from Daniel Webster and from Mr. N. P.Willis — Samoset 
the Indian Chief— Enei-gy of the Pilgrim Fathers — Altered Face of their 
Country .., 50 

CHAPTER X. 
Green Harbor, the Seat of Daniel Webster — His Guests — Description of his 
Mansion — The Militia General — Enterprise of American Lady-travelers — 

An Instance — Mrs. C fi'oni China — Great intellectnal Powers of Mr. 

Webster — A Storm — " My Kingdom for a Pin" — Anecdote of Lady ■ 

— The sole American with an aristocratic Title — Extraordinary Popularity 
of Mr. Webster in Now ICngland — Anecdote of Mr. Webster— That States- 
man and Mr. Clay never Presidents of the United States — A Cause assigned 
— Appointment of illiterate political Postmasters — Modeof Living at Green 
Harbor 53 

CHAPTER XI. 
Visit to Mr. and Mrs. Prescott at Nahant— Paucity of Trees there— A mag- 
nificent Water-Melon— Beauty of Boston Harbor — Poetical additional 
Names given to American Cities — New Bedford — -Its Population and Trade - 
— Delicate Politeness of aDescendantof William Penn — Martha's Vineyard 
— The Hostess, her Son and Daughter — Woodsville — Naushon — Its Loveli- 
ness — The one Grave — Reflection suggested by it — An ancient Place of 
Indian Sepulture — Verses suggested by Naushou 60 

CHAPTER Xn. 
The Blind Asylum at Boston and Laura Bridgeman — New Haven, " The City 
of Elms" — Yale College — Its Oljjects of Science and Art— Professor Silli- 
mau, Jun. — Governor Yale— His Epitaph — His English Connections — 
Black domestic Servants — Two Opinions of them — A stable Count D'Orsay 
— The American Character — Scenery about New Haven— Katydids, Tree- 
Frogs, and Crickets — Connecticut Yankees 68 

CHAPTER XIIL 
Bridgeport — The Irish Housemaid— Ultra-Republicans even in America — The 
great Croton Aqueduct described — Supply of Water to New York — New 
York Trotters — Delmonico's Hotel— Excursion with American Friends 
— Glorious Scenery of Staten Island — Greenwood Cemetery — Its Extent, 
Sceneiy, and Monuments — Miss Lynch the Poetess and Fredrika Bremer 73 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Philadelphia — Incessant Uproar in that City — Its Custom House and Ceme- 
teries — Baltimore — Battle and Washington Monuments — The Catholic Ca- 
thedral — The Merchants' Shot tower — Its Trade and Commerce — Its In- 
crease and Population— Baltimore Clippers — Barnum's Hotel — Sensitive- 
ness of Americans to cold— The Deaf Gentleman and his Stentorian Friend 
Anthracite Coal Fires 78 

CHAPTER XV. 

The City of Washington— Pennsylvania Avenue— The " City of Magnificent 
Distances"- The Stentorian Gentleman and his Hogs— The Capitol de- 
scribed—Monument to Washington — The Navy Yard — Georgetown — A 
Digression to Tunis— Public Buililina:s— The Post"Office— The Patent Office 
The Treasury— The President's Mansion— The "White House "—Visit to 
General Taylor, the late President— His Daughter, Mrs. Bliss— Appeai-- 
ance of General Taylor— His Affability— His Conversation— Invitation to 
♦h^ Authoress— Heat of the Weather in November S2 



CONTENTS. 



99 



CHAPTEU XVI. 
Discomforts of Traveling over the Alleglianies— Mr. Clay— Pittsburg as sable 
as Sheffieia-Its Population-Visit to a Glass Factoiy an, Iron Foundry-A 
dnar Vehicle-Factories and Foundries in Pittsburg-The Ohio-Thenew 
Suspension Bridge at Wheeling-Accidents to Steamers caused by it- 
Courtesy of the Captains and Clerks of Steamers-Cuicninati-Germau 

and Irish Immigrants compared— Verses addressed to Emigrants 88 

CHAPTEiR XVII. 
Description of Louisville-Its Trade and Natural Productions-Its Soil and 
Rivers-The Kentucky Caves-A Visit to one-Its Avenues Domes, Cat- 
aracts Pits and Rivers-A Sea in it-The vociferous Bats-Echoes of the 
Cave-T le Cave once the Residence of consumptive Patients-The eye- 
less Fish-The narrow Path and the fat Englishman-Vast Extent of the 

Cave— Verses suggested by it 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
A ronversation in a Coach— A loquacious Gentleman— The other Passenger— 
H^Are^ance-An American Argament*touching the P.otency of Money ^ 
S mi'e'a Gentleman-An Exhibition of genuhie Feeling-A Kentuckian « , 
Notion of England-The slight Value set on human Life in Amenca-The 
DuerP gs paramount in Louisville-Herds of Swine on he AHeghanies 
-The Hotel Keeper and the Kentucky Cave-Danger attending a Visit 

to the Caves 

CHAPTER XIX. 
The Steamer fi'om Lon.sville-The Passengers-The^Lady in the Tarhan, 
ine P'^''^™^'^ "''"', pi-,.„.<r,>s— A Family of another Description— The Lili- I 
TuL^rLt'olnZM model Grandma^ima-Tho Sonnambula of a Stew- 
Ldess-St Louis-Ravages of the Cholera in that City-Rapid Growth of 
It Louis-Vast Number of German Immigrants-Progress ot Americau/ 
SiVilizarion-Prairie Hunting-Frequency of Steamboat Accidents on th J ^^^ 

Mississippi 

CHAPTER XX. 
Tl,« Mi««iK<5inni— Its Impression upon the Author— Its Banks— The immense 
Fo^iseerfrom it-Its varied Scenery-The Mississippi by Night-Hosts 
rfl .ill TrPPR-Steamer " 6nae£red"-Visit to the late President's Cotton 
Planta bn-m Slaves-Interesting Negro Children-Slianty of Mr. Tay- 
fm the President's Son-An aged Slave-His extreme Pohteness-The 
black Valet of Mr. Taylor- The immediate Slave Abolition auestion-In- y 

siances of 111 ti-eatmeut of Slaves-Persecution of Musquitoes 113 V 

CHAPTER XXL 
Ti,» t^f rharies Hotel at New Orieans— The Swedish Vv^aiter and Jenny 
T ind-Ono -essive Heat in December in New Orieans-Vast auantit.es 
of Cott?n-The probable future Aspect of the Banks of the Mississippi-- 
rommeice of New Orleans-The City-Its Port-Its Inhabitants-Its \ 
Churches-The City subject to Inuudations-Place.s of Sepn ture above 
Ground-Wreck of the Louisiana Steamer- Wonderful Capabilities of the 
Vniw „f the Mississippi- The Americans not extravagant when they de- 

•l^/t Resources of their Country-AUigators-The Red River-The . 

^ruSdaf ESaXnentl of%he Mississippi ''at New Orleans-Their^ In- ^^^ ^ 

security 

CHAPTER XXII. 
\lr^v.■,^^ T ^tf. Ponnhnrtrain— An Indian Encampment— The Indians and 

^tSdr^mitws-cTum^^^^^^^ 

tivalof the New Year-Rival musical Processions-The Magnolia Grove 
-Manner of Life of the Indians-Manifold Miseries attending waiting for 

C3 Jtm^rJ Madame L V Mr. Clay— Preparing to start for Mes- y 

fo^Mad^e L— -L V 's old black Slave-Her Remembrance %/ 

cfVashln^i-Versei^on Madame L— V— 's deceased Children ... 13C. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 
-- Boston as a Coraniorcial City.-Its Wharves-Its Sl.ipping-Its Trade-The 
India Wharf American Boys-Tbe Present and FuLre of Anierica-T e 
fashionable Quarter ut Boston-American Ladies and Gentlemen- YounI 
America-Boston the Metropolis of Railroads-Gallantry and Patience o1 
American Travc lers-Presh Pond-Wenham Lake Icl_Mn Prescott s 
tTr n^"p''~r "".Tr- ""'^ I^il-^'-a'-y and Philosophical Institutions' n Bos 
ton-I s Periodical Literature-Its Charities-Its Patronage of the Arts- 
Power's bculptures-Frequency of Fires in American Cities-General 
Appearance ol Boston v^i^co urenerai 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

^ p''l '\}^'\.,^^''^''}^ "<■ New York-Trinity ClmrcIi-Wall-street-Thp 
Park-The Shops in Broadway-Trallic in Broadwav-TH,h .n i n 

Chair of Washington-Churches-Benevolent, Litlary and icSt^^^^^^^ 
stitutions— Squares, Mansions— Foreiirners in IVpw \W1- « . , 

tween America and Russia-Those twoVa Ls ^.Iv-iT^^^P^^^^^^ ^''■^ 
Mmtia ^rr^^l^-P^'^'-'-^^-«*-Miiita.7S,^ni7s^iir£ 

-^^Is o?]us?^^:-S;if ^''''''^' '' America-Ti:^at;^ij 

*' 146 

-. ^ ^ ,, CHAPTER XXV. 

Vera Cruz by Monnlig-ht— The -Walker" Sreampv Ti,» a,- • 

Mexico— Lord Mark Kerr's exonis p n^ow^ ^ ^ "'''^ Minister to 

of Music of the Americars-Th.?!': ,eet of Ve ^'r~®'''l'«. °" »i=<='^-Love 
-Sopilotes-Their Functions and 'A^pea^Ce Th7 r'^'n ' °'^.'\Noither 
d'UlIoa— The Harbor of Vera Cru^— ri^rp^, ®t ^^^'''^ °^ ^^- J"an 

German Housekeepei%e\polyd7^^^^^^^^ 

ber of laden Mulesi-Depar ures for M^v^n / Alameda- Vast Num- 
Dresses of the Vera Ci-uzians ^^e^'<=o-^ era Cruzian Watchmen- 

159 

CHAPTER XX VL 

The Mexicans— Climate of Mexico— Lnxurianco r,f u^ A^ 
of its Flowers and Birds-Ja]apa™e Jouniel / ''■^?'^*'°^^ 
State of the Roads-The DiH^ence-^ ftSblo 1™ /^'"^^''^^-'rhe 
Cornish Miners in Mexico-The Inn it pSf Fn"rT^u ^','^"»^^-- 
Mexico-Hacieiida of General Santa A,V„oP, ?,'''' Hardware in 
sage of the Chapparai-Paente dd Ret-Ti;;^Moun? if '°'f m"^ '''' ^^'■ 
zaba-Its magnificent Height-Ca liedralof PnS^ ^ of Mexico-Ori- 
Frio-Popocatapetl-Natio'nalCi;«'oft^ 
,, . , , CHAPTER XXVIL 

-Arrival of the Diligenco^VdirHote?-Ti?ePa:;^^ 

—Appointments of the Hotel- Xr^vint.,, f, • ? ■'^^- °'^ -^"'""'"zii 

CHAPTER XXVin. 

ple-bescription of tl e Te pie 1 v " n T^'^-f ^l "'^ -^""^ ^=^'ec Tem- 
the Cathedral-The CaLnda • sto^fp nff^f^Tf' ^^ "f^^-^'^e Interior of 
-The Aztec Priests and their Victim/ t'I,! fff '~^ '? ®',°"^ °'" Sacrifices 
Museum-Colossal StaUie of Charles 7v of ^ ^°'-«i''PeJ-The National 
Pedro de Alvarad(>-''E1 Salto de Ah .r;,l ''^ a'""^^'"^?'' "'^ ^"'"'^^'^ ""^ 
Beauty of the Citv-Tho Shops nnd d, ir^fnU•7•^"."^^^^^^?^ °*' ^^^xico- 

Horse.fu.niCure-Mexicanirus"t!i\;^SSl]el^^^ 



CONTENTS. ix 



CHAPTEU XXIX. 
Mexico — The Viga — The Chinampas — Floating Gardens, Fields and Or- 
chards of the Aztecs— Abundance of Flowers in Mexico — And of Fruits — 
The Frnit Stalls — The Meat and Poultry — Tortoises, Salamanders and 
Frogs — The Population of the City of Mexico — Its numberless Vehicles — Its 
Environs on Fete Days — Defective police Arrangements — Frequent Rob- 
beries in Consequence — Mexican Chocolate — Victoriaua, the Waiting-maid 20 

CHAPTEa XXX. 
Genera] HeiTera, the President of Mexico, and the American Minister — Cha- 
pultepec assaulted and taken by General Scott — Enormous Cypresses in 
the Garden of Montezuma — Dona Mariana, the Aztec Wife of Cortez — 
Vievi^ from the Summit of Chaptiltepec Castle — Impressions caused by it — 
The Mountains Tacubaya and Toluca — Tanks and Baths of Montezuma — 
The Opera House at Mexico — The fat comic Actress and the brilliantly 
dressed one — Beauty of Mexican Ladies — Madame Bishop — Payments in 
Kind for her Singing — Beautiful Appearance of the Stars in Mexico — View 
of dusty Victims alighting from the Diligence — The Brother of M. Arago 
the Astronomer — The Volcanoes Popocatepetl and Iztacchihuatl — Patio of 
M. Arago 207 

CHAPTER XXXI. 
Intention to cross the Isthmus of Panama — The Carnival at Mexico — Magnif- 
icence of the Cathedral during that Festival — Throngs of picturesque Peo- 
ple in the Streets — The Masks — A grotesque Equestrian — Carnival Quiz 
on English and French Horsewomen — The Mexican Riding-dress — Mexi- 
can Eyes — High Pacing of Mexican Horses — Mr. Parrott instrumental in 
securing California to the Americans 219 

CHAPTER XXXII. 
Departure for Vera Cruz — Threatened Accident to the Diligence — Last Look 
at Mexico and its early Stirrers — The Little Penon — A magnificent View — 
Passengers by the Diligence — Splendid Sombreros — The Escort of Lan- 
cers — Mexican Robbers — Of what Class composed — Some of their Exploits 
— Escorts alleged to be sometimes Robbers — Arrival at Rio Frio — Mr. and 

Mrs. G The Plain of Puebla— Malinche— The Pyramid of Cholula— 

Its early History — Its Height and Appearance — Chamber discovered in the 
Pyramid — What it contained — Arrival at Puebla 234 

CHAPTER XXXIIL 
Departure from Puebla — Acajete — El Pinal — Alai-m of Ladrones — Discom- 
forts of rough Roads exemplified — Pulque — Its Taste — The Plant from 
■which it is extracted — Mode of extracting it — Monde de Pizano — Arrival 
at Perote — Coldness of that Place in Winter 234 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 
Departure from Perote— Magnificent View from the Heights — Impressions 
caused by them — The Beautj^ of the Approach to Xalapa described — The 
Mirage — Appearance of inverted Hou.ses — Hotel de DiHgencias — Visit to 
a Church — Negotiation with the Mozo touching the Sarape and the Ameri- 
can Blanket — -Numbers of Friars and Nuns from Spain — Arrival at Verp 
Cruz — A curious Fact in Relation to Dr. Gutzlaft', the Missionary to China 
— Arrival of the Steamer for the Havana 240 

CHAPTER XXXV. 
Arrival at Havana — Passengers on Board the Tkainea — Affecting Story of 
an American Merchant's unforeseen Calamity — An American Grinlin Gib- 
bons — The enterprising political Organ-grinder — First Glimpse of Havana 
—The Harbor— The Morro Castle and the Puntal— The Cabanas— The City 
of Havana — Volantes — The Paseo — Ladies of Havana — Their Dress — The 
Gentlemen — Usages of Gallantry at Havana — The Military — Reviews and 
Music — Anxiety of Spain to retain Cuba — Cathedral of Havana — The Ashes 
of Columbus — His Bust — How his Ashes have been removed from Place to 
Place — ^Vorshipers in the Catlicdral — The Bishop',s Garden — Rare aiid 



CONTENTS. 



beautiful Trees mid Flowers — Hurricanes at Havana — Volantes in niii- 
vcrsal Use — Where bestowed sometimes — Havana Houses — How fur- 
nisbed — Social Customs in Havana — Fruits 247 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 
Performance of a Military Band in tlie Grand S(]uare— Tbo diversified Com- 
pany — Description of Havana Nights — The Opera House — The Singers — 
Exhortation to Spanish Ladies to preserve their National Dress — An Exe- 
cution — Material Prosperity of Havana — "Jesus del Monte" — Dinner with 
the Ca|)tain-General — The Company — Escort of the Conde — Preparations 

for the Isthmus Journey — A Tertulia — Miss M 's exquisite Playinc: and 

Singing — The Environs of Havana — The Paseo of Ysabcl Segunda — Envi- 
rons ot Havana in the Evening — " Guagiros'' — Description ol their Houses 
— Customs and Dress of the "Guagiros" — Chinese Laliorers in Havana — 
Anecdote of llhincse Thieves — Preparing to depart for Panama SCO 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 
Arrival at Panama — The "Georgia" — Kindness and Attention of Lieutenant 
Porter — Deticiency of FreshWater — An Alarm on Board — Its Cause — Bus- 
tle of preparation to land at C'hagres — The stout Lady and her Trunk — 
Arrival at Cliagres — Polished Manners of American Gentlemen — The Bar 
of Chagres- — Difficulty of landing and of procuring Lodgings — Apartments 

at Senor 's — General aspect of (Uiagrcs — The Castle of San Lorenzo 

— Its i)resent Condition — Population of Chagres — Adventurers to California 
Start for Gorgona. 271 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
The River Chagres — The Boat — The Rowers — Their peculiar and vociferous 
Songs — Gatun and Millallores — Exquisite Beanty of the Sceneiy on the 
Banks of the Chagres — Innumerable Flowers and radiant Birds — Strange 
and Prodigal Intertexture of Parasitical Plants — pjuormous and brilliant 
Buttcrllies — Las dos Hermanas — Accommodations at that place — The 
Hostess and her adopted Daughter — Americans bound ibr California — 
Scenery during the Progress ofthe\ dyagc — San Pablo — An Accident— The 
Lady with her immense Coitl'ure — Monte Carabali — Arrival at Gorgona.. 281 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 
Gorgona — Immense Number of Americans at that place — The Native Hotel 
— The Host and his Daughters — A Fiesta — The ^Vomen's Dresses — The 
truant Clerk in his Splendor — His Glory checked — Hunting for Mules — A 
pniiecled Railroad through Gorgona — "Sammy," the Servant at the Hotel 
— Some account of his Duties, and how they were performed — His Appear- 
ance—Spread of Fever in Gorgona — Mode of lading Mules — Departure of 
Friends for Panama — Pedestrian Travelers to Calitbrnia — Stanzas sug- 
gested by seeing them 293 

CHAPTER XL. 

Arrival at Panama — Hospitality of Mr. His House — Coral and Pearl 

of the Pacific — The "Espiritu Santo" — Departure from Gorgona described 
— A refractory Mule — The Cerro Grande — Alleged View from its Summit 
— A magnificent Forest described — A Forest on Fire — The American's Ad- 
miration of the Trees — The Flowers in the Forest — Difficulty of proceed- 
ing on the bad Roads — Enormous Loads carried by the Natives of the 
Isthmus — Attire of Travelers to California — Female Inhabitants of the 
Isthmus — Their dislike of Americans — Arrival at the Halfway House — 

Mrs. H and her Child — The American Character exemplified — The 

Journey resumed — Escapade of a Mule — A Halt — The Indian Hut — Its 
Inmates — Noises in the Forest 304 

CHAPTER XLI. 

The Journey to Panama resumed — Beauty of the Moon-light — The paved 

Causeway — First view of the Pacific — The American's opinion of the old 

Spaniards — And of the present Natives of the Isthmus — Arrival at Panama 

— The Citv— The Grand Plaza— The Bay— The Cathedral — Jesuit Church 



CONTENTS. xi 

Had ("olle^-e — Uuinons Condition of Panama — Americans in Panama bound 
lor Callliiniia— TUe C'limatc of Panama— Breezes I'rom the Pacific— Gen- 
eral M Insects and Reptiles in Panama — The Fire beetle — The 

Family of Madame H A social Custom in Panama — Half-starved 

Horses and Mules — Panama becoming Americanized — The Carriages in 
that City 318 

CHAPTER XL II. 
Monarchy and Democracy — Kngland's Treatment of her Colonies — The Great- 
ness of America — Her Tendency to Propagandism — Anecdote of a Paroquet 
— The Pearl Fishery at Panama — The Captain and his Crew — General Ro- 
sas — Beautifully scented Woods in Panama — The Rose Fever — Theatri- 
t'als in Panama — Hostility between Americans and the Natives of Panama 
— Fair Children in Panama — The would-be Englishwoman 327 

CHAPTER XLIII. 
Intention to go to Lima — Dinner to l-ix-cannibals — Tlicatricals in Panama — 
Taboga — The French Tailoress — The " Happy Ship" — Roman Catholic 
Procession on Good Friday — A mischievous Trick — California thoroughly 
Americanized — Californian Adventurers and the Steandjoat Agent. — The 
dead Negro — British Subjects buried in Panama — Tone of American Papers 
in Panama — Spirit of Enterprise of the Americans— (JId Panama — Reptiles 
and Insects in Panama — Morgan and his Buccaneers — The Pirates and the 
Spanish Fleet — Wealth said to have been buried by the Buccaneers — 
American Love of intellectual Progress 339 

CHAPTER XLIV. 
The probable future of Panama — South American Railroads projected — Gold- 
seekers in Panama — Large Importation of Fruit tn^cs into California — 
American Improvements in Panama — Alleged ill-treatment of Emigrants 
by Ship-owners — The Green Mountain Yankee — The Indians and the 
damp Gunpowder — The Government of New Granada — Its recent Policy 354 

CHAPTER XLV. 
Arrival at Lima announced — Embark on the "Bolivia" — View of Panama, 
from the Sea — Buenaventura — The River and City of Guayaquil — Horses' 
Dread of Alligators — Native Boats and their varied Freight — Parrots, Ma- 
caws, and Paroquets — Ponchos — The Guayaquil Ladies — Grass Hats — 
The live Productions of Guayaquil — Payta — Its Popidation — Its Salubrity 
— Its Market— Scarcity of Water at Payta — Former Wealth of that Place 360 

CHAPTER XLVL 

Chcrimoyas — Lambayeque — The Balsa — Its Use — Numerous Reptiles and 
Insects at Lambayeque — Curious Mound-tombs — .'-Sepulchral Curiosities 
found in them — Alleged Imitation of them in Birmingham — Huanchaco — 
The peremptory Lady — Description of Call ao — Its Destruction a Century 
ago — The frozen Ap[)!e , 369 

CHAPTER XLVIL 
Site of Old Oallao — The shouting Inquirer — Approach to Lima — Absence of 
Rain at that City — The graceful Peruvian Costume — The Poncho — Male 
and Female Equestrians — Arrival at Lim.a — The Aspect of the City — 
Mlradors — Multitude of Asses in Lima — London and Lima — Costumes of 
Lima Ladies — The Bridge over the Rimac — Venders of Cigars — the Cor- 
dilleras 375 

CHAPTER XLVIIL 

The Great Plaza— The Cathedral of Lima— The Streets of that City— The t 
Silversmiths — The Bells of Lima — Charitable Institutions — Churches and 
Convents — Handsome Houses — Palaces of the Past — Gr()tes(iue Paintings 
— Well-appointed Carriages — The Limanian Beggar-woman — Particular- 
ities of Lima Ladies' Dress — Their Shoes — M. and Madame B Their 

Daughter 384 



xii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XLIX. 
Signal Instance of the Heroism of a Lady — The Procession of the Oration — 
A Lottery in the Grand Piaza — How conducted — Distinguished Visitors — 
Chorillos — The Sale of " Almas," or Souls — The Public Museum — Portraits 
of the Spanish Viceroys — Mummies of Peruvian Incas — Beautiful stuffed 
Birds — Manco Capac — Who were the first Incas? — The Children of the 
Sun — Progress in Civilization of Old Peru 389 

CHAPTER L. 
Manco Capac and his Wife — Their Instruction of the Peruvians — Old Pera 
vian Roads — Bullfights at Lima — Mode of conducting them — Spectators at 
them — Limanian Ladies — Beautiful Specimens of Peruvian Art and Inge- 
nuity — Silver ornamented Fruits — Lima Burial Places — The Amancaes — 
The Fiesta of St. John — The Valley of Amancaes — The Flower of that 
name — The Streets of Lima after the Fiesta — Concerts given by a French 
Lady — Fruits of Lima — The Grenadilla — " Italia" — Custom of washing 
Plates by the lower Orders in Lima — The Gorgonian Servant — "Huacos" 
and other Curiosities found in Peruvian Sepulchres — The "Seiiorita" — A 
Garden in the Suburbs — Its numerous Trees, Shrubs, and Flowers — Ener- 
vating Climate of Lima 398 

CHAPTER LL 
About to leave Lima — The Cathedral — Fragile but enduring Buildings in 
Lima — The Reason why they are the latter— The Tower of San Domingo — 
The Chorister of the Cathedral— The Shrine of Santa Rosa— The Inqui- 
Bition at Lima — The Cemetery — Cemeteries in the United States — Lima 
Mode of Sepulture — Remains of the Temple of the Sun — Peruvian Politics 
— Disheartening News from California- Verses on Happiness— Earth- 
quakes at Lima — The Shoes of the Ladies 412 

CHAPTER Lll. 
The Voyage from Pera to Panama— Farewell to Lima— Guanacos— The Rio 
Lady in the Omnibus — The Railroad begun — Arrival at Callao — Rodil's 

Defense of Callao described — Polite Attention of Captain W The 

Harbor of Callao — The Beauty of the Pacific — Handsome Appointments 
of the Steamei- — The Musical Stewards — Mr. Beebe, the Hatter, for Cali- 
fornia — An-ival at Payta— The British Consul there— Description of Payta 
■ — Treatment of Peru by the Spani.3h Conquerors — Insurrection of Tupac 
Amaru — The Indians beyond Peru 42i 

CHAPTER LIII. 
Peru— Her Internal Communication— Her Forts and Coast— Peruvian Agri- 
culture — Manufactures of Inland Peru — Commerce of Peru — HerCommodi 
ties — Her Trade— Her Government — Her Religion — Peruvian Fertility — 
Mineral Resources— Animals— Cattle— The Face of the Country— tho 
Andes — Rivers and Lakes of Peru — Her Coasts 431 

CHAPTER LIV. 
Departure from Peru— On board the " New World"— The nautical Ladies— 
Chimborazo and Cotopaxi— The Volcanoes of the Cordillera— Crater of 
Cotopaxi — A naiTow Escape— Arrival at Panama — An Amateur Concert- 
Departure from Panama— Scene occasioned by a dead Mule— Badness of 
the Roads — Arrival at Cruces 438 

CHAPTER LV. 
The Hotel at Cruces— A felonious Cat— Tiic New Granadian Gentlemen- 
Progress toward Chagres— Lightning, Thunder, and Rain— An-ival at 
Chagres — The dead American — tinarrels between Americans and the 
Natives of Panama— Hmnboldt's Estimate of the Indians— Incredulity of 
Cahfornian Emigrants— Melancholy case of two returned Californians— A 
beautiful Sunset— Arrival at Jamaica— Kingston-Descent of General 
Lopez on Cuba- Strange Effect of it— Reverses of Jamaica Planters— The 
Glories of Nature— Creation's Praise, aPoem 446 



NARRATIVE 

OP 

TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES. 



CHAPTER I. 

Arrival at New York-First View of Broadway-Summer Costame of the 
Ladies-Dercription of New York-Its Suburbs and Islands-Its Forti- 
fications—Prepare to start for Niagara. 

The Bay of New York looked beautiful on the morning of our 
arrival (May 16th, 1849). It was a bright, warm splendid 
mornin- ; the sun shone gloriously, and the sky rermnded me of 
Italv °We took leave of Captain Judkms, the obhgmg and ex- 
cellent captain of " The Canada - but before we went on shore, 
we witnessed the disembarkation of the mails-it is quite an 
interesting spectacle. There were about thirty thousand letters— 
^^iu,^ messengers of peace !-one could not bt.t rejoice at 
the slcrht Those numerous letters of business, oi friendship, oi 
mutual interest, seemed so many links uniting the two countries in 
a concord not to be easily, if ever, broken. 

One of the first things that struck us on arriving in the city 
of New York-the Empress City of the West-was of course, 
Broadway. It is a noble street, and has a thoroughly bustling, 
lively and somewhat democratic air. New \ork is certainly 
handsome, and yet th.re is something about it that gives one the 
idea of a half-finished <nty, and this even m Broadway itself , tor 
the street was literally littered with all imagmab e rubbish which 
we should imagine from appearances, is usually shot m that 
celebrated thoroughfare ; indeed it seems a sort ot preserve lor this 
snecie^ of came. Piles of timber, mounds of bricks, mountains ot 
packing-cases, pyramids of stones, and stacks of goods, were ob- 
servable on all sides. The New Yorkers themselves grumble 
much at the inconvenience, and their newspapers often contain 



11 TRAVELS IN AJIERICA. 



pathetic remonstrances with the authorities, for allowino- such 
obstructions to crowd the tliorouohfave. " 

Besides this, it appears from "tlieir published comnlaiiils, that 
their streets are very much too often torn up ihr sewao-e pur- 
poses &c., and, m short, that this tiresome performance's fre- 
quently vnncccssariJn encored, without their consent, and certainly 
o their manifest inconvenience. They ask if their time is to be 
taken up (as their streets are) continually, by having to stop every 
two or three steps, and sit down on the next door-step to take the 
paving-stones out of their boots 1 Cart-loads of these same pavino-- 
stones, adding to the confusion, were to be seen on all sides, ^m\ 
sometimes felt, as our handsome, heavy, crimson-velvet-lined, liired 
vehicle (rather a warm-looking lining for New York, near the 
beginning of June), swayed ftom side to side, and rolled and rattled 
ponderously along. 

. ^^.^ '^^"^ .^° ^he Astor House, or rather Astor Toiv7i for its 
size ,s prodigious : tbere we had comfortable bedrooms, and a nice 
sitting-room ; and we dined in private ;— and I A^-as <rlad to find 
no objection was made to this arran-eraent. There fs a perfect 
colony of Irish at the Astor House fbut till the accent betrayed 
them, I took the waiters, at first, for French or German, so 
carefully had they ibllowed the example of their American fellow- 
citizens (of whom, be it remembered, I had as yet beheld next to 
nothing), and were so be-bearded, imperialed, and', I believe in 
maiij; instances, mustachioed too, that Pad.ly seemed quite trans- 
mogrified into a " whiskered Pandour or a fierce hussar " which 
seemed unnecessary for the peaceful occupation of layino- knives— 
not without forks— and handing cream-ices. 

What a glorious sunny .day it Avas ! We had a glimpse of busy 
i^roadwaj^from our windows. We soon saw some evidence of the 
warmth of a New lork summer, in the profusion of light cool 
bonnets furnished with broad and deeply-hancing curtains, shadin- 
a.ul covering the throat and part of the shoulders-a very sensible 
costume for hot M'eather. The fashion, or the custom, just now 
seems to be for all the ladies to wear large white shawls I 
never beheld such a number of white shawls mustered before I 
tlunk : the female part of the population seem all vouce an bla'nc 
It fiad rather too table-clothy an ai)pearance, and from ils fre- 
quency, the snowy shawl became quite tiresome; besides they 
rnac e one thmk of " weird white women," sheeted spectres, and 
Abd-el-Kader s scouring Arab.<, in their " burnooses." This is I 
dare say, however, only a temporary fancy ; and probably when I 



SITUATION OF NEW YORK. 15 



return to New York, they (the shawls, not the wearers thereof) 
will all have been swept away, like so many light fleecy clouds, to 
the four winds of heaven. 

I will say but little of New York itself now, as this is only a 
flying visit, and I shall return, ere long — merely observing, en 
passant, that every thing around me betokens energy, industry, 
and prosperity, and also the impetuous go-aheadiness, which will 
hardly allow time for completing all that is begun, or for contriv- 
ing that order and comfort which should keep pace with improve- 
ment and innovation. 

New York is situated on Manhattan Island, at the confluence 
of the bright and beautiful Hudson, with the East River (or Strait 
of Long Island). It is the centre of an imposing panorama, and 
is screened from the tumultuous ocean by an assemblage of inter- 
vening, protecting islands. Its harbor is safe, easy of access, very 
spacious, and is said to be capable of accommodating the combined 
navies of the world. This noble harbor occupies a sweeping 
circuit of twenty-five miles : on every side it is gracefully bounded 
by ever-varying scenery, country seats, and scattered hamlets, 
while the above-mentioned lovely islands shine like precious jewels 
on its radiant bosom. 

The busy metropolis of the United States has almost constant 
communication, by steam and sailing-packets, with all the sea- 
ports of America, Asia, Africa, Europe, the East and West Indies, 
and the islands of the Pacitie. Its progress in commerce, popula- 
tion, and wealth is indeed astonishing. The population in 1800 
was 60,489 ; in 1820, 123,706 ; in 1S40, 312.710 ; and in 1849, 
400,000. 

Manhattan Island is thirteen and a half miles long from north 
to south, ranging i'rom half a mile to somewhat more than two 
miles in width — the greatest width being at Eighty-eighth-street, 
and it contains about twenty-two square miles. Incessant com- 
munication is kept up between the city and its picturesque, pros- 
perous, and rapidly increasing suburbs, by means of steam ferry- 
boats, the Harlem Railroad, and omni busses ; the fares being 
exceedingly reasonable, and the accommodations extremely good. 

In approaching New York from " The Narrows," one can 
hardly fail to be struck by the beauty of the bay : the scenery on 
its shore, as I have already mentioned, is very striking. The 
outer harbor, or bay, extends from the " Narrows" to Sandy 
Hook, Avhere is a light-house at the distance of eighteen miles 
from the city. In the harbor, adjoining the city, are Bedlow's, 



IG TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Governor's, and Ellis's islands, all of tliem strongly fortified. The 
first, and most important, includes seventy acres of ground, and is 
situated three thousand two hundred feet Iroin the Battery. I'ort 
Columbus occui)ies its centre, and on the northeast point is Castle 
William, around tower six hundred feet in circumference and sixty 
ieet high, with three tiers of ginis. There is a battery likewise, 
on the northwest side, commanding the entrance through Butter- 
milk Channel, a strait which separates it I'rom Brooklyn, Long 
Island. 

In addition to these fortifications, Now York harbor is well 
defended by similar w^orks on Bedlow's and Ellis's Islands ; at 
the Narrows, on the Long Island sliore, by Eort Hamilton and 
Fort Lafayette (formerly Fort Piamond), Avhich is built on a 
rcei" of rocks about two hundred yards irom the sliore ; and on 
Staten Island, ojiposite, by Fort Tomjjkins and Fort llichmond. 
Here the "Narrows" is about two-thirds of a mile wide. The 
entrance from the t^ouud, on the East Ivivcr, is del'ended by Fort 
Schuyler, on Throg's Neck. 

So nuieh for the defenses of the great emporium and metropolis 
of the Lhiited Stales, and so nnich for itself ibr the present — lor I 
am oil" to the great Niagara. Every lacility for our journey has 
been alliu-ded us by the kindness of the English Consul and Mrs. 
Barclay, who have amiably given me all the necessary instruc- 
tions, directions, cVc. It may easily be guessed how eagerly I long 
to hear and see the waters of Erie, Superior, Huron, and Michigan, 
all thundering down one mighty steep in their awful greatness and 
power ! 



CHAPTER II. 

Detained at Albany-Wrcek of the " Enipiio" Stcamei— Ameilca.i .liuUr. 
1-e.encc to Inanan Lire-'l'he theatrical Riot and Massacre caused by Mr. 
Forrest's Jealousy of Maercady-Sympathy ol the Lady tor the Captaui 
of the ''Empire"— Iligh-suunding names ol 1 owns— i lie Hudson- 
Hotels at Albany— DeserijUion of Albany. 

Wf came to the handsome town of Albany in a fast and bean- 
tifnllv-decorated steamer ; but we might ahnost as well have been 
on board a slow one, as we find we can not go on till to-morrow to 
Bnll-ilo The steamboats and railroads do not communicate as 
convemently as they might do for travelers, and I hear this is done 
expressly to please the hotel-keepers, by ibreing travelers to remain 
a ni-lit at Albany. I was much disappointed ; and so iuU were 
mv thoughts of the great cataract, that I nught we 1 expect to 
have a nightmare of Niagara to-night, which would not^ be a 
Dlea^aut inU-oduction, or preface of an introduction to " the i^ alls. 

The Hudson is a beauteous river ; but, in the midst ol its love- 
liness it was very trhte to come upon the wreck of the splendul 
" Empire" steamer, which was lost two nights belore we started. 
I believe she ran I'oul of a large merchant vessel in the dark, and 
went down very shortly afterward. Numbers of lives were lost ; 
many dead bodies had been picked up, and as soon as they can 
penetrate into her sleeping cabins they expect to find many more. 
They were slowly attempting to raise the steamer when we 

^^Then was I a second time struck by the American indifl:'erence 
to human life, which I had before observed at New York. The 
first time it was on occasion of the frightful massacre of citizens 
at the miserable theatrical row occasioned by Mr. Forrest's pro- 
fessional jealousy of our Macready. It seemed to excite wonder- 
fully little horror, indignation, or regret. One or two of the news- 
papers kept up an agitation about the matter ; but I do not think 
I have yet heard a single person stigmatize the shooting some 
five-and-twenty citizens on such an occasion, as uncalled for or 
severe I have heard some say it was perfectly right ; and that 
it was a pity so few had paid the penalty of their misconduct ; 1 
heard even harsher things said than that, but forbear to repeat 
them, lest it should be thought that I exaggerate. 



18 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Ai'ter all, I believe most of those wlio suflerecl were merely idle 
spectiitors, drawn there by curiosity, or mixed by chance in the 
crowd. However, that is very ol'teu the case in less severe en- 
counters between the mob and the preservers of order. When I 
expressed my horror at such a liightl'ul massacre in the streets of 
a peaceful city, I iound none to sympathize with such sentiments, 
if I except the columns of the llcratd. In the crowded steamer, 
where one heard people talking over the topics of the day, I do 
not remember to have once heard the subject alluded to, though 
the affair had so recently happened. What a sensation would 
such a slaughter have excited in London I 

When wo passed the melancholy wreck of the ill-starred 
" Empire," whose fate had caused the destruction of so many 
lives, scarcely any one manifested any interest in the catastrophe. 
They sauntered to that side of the vessel in crowds — to look very 
indillorently, it appeared to me, at the mournful spectacle, as they 
might and Avould have done at any other sight. Yet in addition 
to the great number of corpses that had already been found, it was 
almost certain that the still submerged cabins Avere so many 
Collins ; and those who were prosecuting the melancholy search 
•were constantly, wo were told, finding fresh bodies in dillerent 
parts of the vessel. 

The only person who seemed to me at all to feel any commiser- 
ation and regret was a lady who stood near me, and all hers was 
reserved exclusively for the captain of the ill-fated steamer, who 
was her cousin, and who, however, was alive and safe. But, she 
said, some people blamed him, which was very hard, as it was no 
fault of his; and he had been quite "sick," she assured me, ever 
since, from the annoyance ho had undergone. Thus the only ono 
who Avas pitied, it seemed, was one who survived. She added, 
however, he was much shocked at all that had happened. It was 
really consolatory to hoar, that there was such a thing as compas- 
sion, in this busy, go-ahead Avorld of the West, for unfortunates, 
who had been so suddenly and unexpectedly launched into eter- 
nity ; lor one began, almost unconsciously, to lower even one's omTi 
opinion of the value of existence, and to think life a very two- 
penny-hallpenny possession, after all. I will not be sure, hoAvevcr, 
but that what siT'shocked the captain, was the amount of property 
lost ; but I Avonld not too curiously inquire touching the point, 
preferring to think the sorrow arose from more humane feelings. 

Whence arises this inditlerence to human life in so flourishing 
and prosperous a community ? One has always understood that 



HIGH-SOUNDING NAMES OF TOWNS. 19 



existence is of little account in China, because the over-crowded, 
hair-starvcd, hard-worked, oppressed, and tyrannized-over popula- 
tion arc so wretched in this world, that any change must, they 
ieel be a benelicial one for them ; but how dillerent is the case 
here '* Yet true it is that they arc tyrannized over by a very 
despotic task-master, and a very exacting and spuit-grinding ruler 
—Mammon ; and I can well imagine that ceaseless toil m Ins 
service with all the cares and troubles incident to it must make 
a man find life somewhat of a wearisome burden. Indeed, money- 
cettin"- which is certainly in most countries a great business, ap- 
pears here to me almost a battle. It seems as if they must wni, 
do or die, and the dead on the held are trodden under loot by tlieir 
ea'rer comrades and competitors, hurrying onward, and having no 
time to stay, however they mi<iht be disposed. That they are a very 
kind-hearted people, I fully believe ; but to make money seems a 
sort of duty in America— the great object of hving ; and this para- 
mount feeling: to a certain extent, like Aaron's rod, swallows up 

elH tliG rest. 

On our road to Niagara, to-morrow, we shall come to a great 
many very high-sounding places : Rome, Syracuse, Egypt, Athens, 
Geneva, Utica, Amsterdam, Batavia, and Palmyra, among them, 
I believe A noble line of places indeed, and worthy of lorming 
the road to the great, glorious Niagara, if their actual state, cir- 
cumstances, and proportion harmonized with their pretensions. 
"What a pity the Americans do not choose Indian names lor their 
risincr towns and cities, which are generally as sonorous and noble- 
sounding as they are impressive and ].oetical ! Setting aside the 
inadequacy of the towns in general, for the present at least, to do 
iustice to such splendid appellations, and the sometimes ridiculous 
iuxtaposition in which they are placed with regard to each other 
(the most difiercnt, aujj distant, and hostile places in the Uld 
World being forced into a sort of happy-family brotherhood in the 
New) in their immediate neighborhood are too olten found other 
flourishing villages and towns rejoicing in the very homely desig- 
nations of Smithsville, Brownsville, Onion, .1 acksoiitown &c. 
In one place I see they have an infant Troy (not the one almost 
close to this place, but some diminutive rival)— then Highgate, 
Canaan, Guildhall, Milton, Hyde Park, and Columbia, are all 
tolerably near to one another ; but I believe this is nothing to the 
greater incongruities which the West presents ui its more out-oi- 
the-way districts. r xi it J 

We were quite charmed with the extreme beauty oi the Mua- 



20 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



son and its banks, especially at West Toint. 1 shall not go into 
any particulars on the subject till my return, but only say the 
river reminded me of the llhine in many parts, minus the old 
feudal castles. 

When we arrived at Albany we first tried a very handsome- 
looknirr hotel in a high situation, from whence I thought we 
should have a fine view, which our driver recommended, the one 
I had been advised to go to in New York being quite full. It 
was closed, and this, I suppose, our cunning driver knew right 
well, but it gave him the opportunity of asking about twice as 
much more ibr our short but rather steep drive, as we had paid 
for our passage the whole way from New York ; the one beino- 
' remarkably cheap, the other rather more remarkably dear. Of 
course -we soon Ibund another hotel, for Albany abounds with 
them. Here are some of their names— Stan vvix Hall, the Ameri- 
can Hotel, the City, the Clinton, Columbian, Congress Hall 
Delavan House, Temperance Hotel, Eastern Railroad Hotel, Frank- 
hn House, Mansion House (where we are staying). United Slates 
Hotel, and Washington Hall. 

The proprietor and people here are extremely civil and obli"-ino- 
and we are very comfortable. The street in which our hotel fs sit- 
uation IS particularly liaud.some ; it is exceedingly wide Avith excel- 
lent and very broad IroUoirs (which they call here side-walks) 
This town was founded by the Dutch in 1623, and called Fort 
Orange, and in IGSG it was chartered as a city. Next to James- 
town in Virginia, it was the earliest European settlement within 
the thirteen original States ; it has not, however, at all an ancient 
air, at least as far as I have seen of it ; but, in fact, it was almost 
entirely rebuilt not long ago ; I beheve after one of the dreadful 
fires so frequent in the United States. 

When the English captured New York this town was named 
Albany, a complmient to the Duke of York and Albany, after- 
ward James the Second. Its position makes it necessarily a great 
thoroughfare: it is placed near the head of tide navigation,°and 
on the direct hne of communication from the east and the south 
with the River St. Lawrence, with the Saratoga Sprino-s, and 
■with the country of the great Lakes. ° 

The city has acquired great additional commercial importance 
since the completion of the Erie and Champlain canals : this 
has made it the mircpot for a large proportion of the products of 
the State destined to the New York markets. A fine basin is 
constructed npon the river to accommodate this large trade • in 



DESCRIPTION OF ALBANY. 21 

this all tlie boats employed on the northern and western canals 
are received. This consists of part of the river included between 
the shore and a noble pier, whose proportions are magnificent. 
It is, indeed, a stupendous work, containing several acres, on 
which large stores have been built, where enormous quantities of 
" lumber," and other articles of trade are collected. Drawbridges 
connect it with the city. 

The public buildings here are said to be handsome : the popu- 
lation is forty-five thousand, or thereabouts. The town appears 
very clean, and is altogether a very striking-looking, bustling, 
thriving, and admirably-situated place. The Capitol looks im- 
posing at the head of State-street, one hundred and thirty feet 
above the Hudson. 



CHAPTER III. 

Difficulty of conveying the Impression caused by a first View of tlie Falls 
of Niagara — An Attempt to ilo so — The Falls descritaed — A Thunder- 
storm over the Great Cataracts — The Rainbow — Kindness and Courtesy 
of the Americans — Their Spirit of Enterprise — Luxurious Appointments 
of American Steamers — The Dimensions of the Falls — Goat Island — 
Quantity of Water precipitated over the Falls — Grand and Navy Islands. 

Wk arrived at Niagara to-day from Buffalo, and put up at the 
Clifton House. It will not be expected that I should tell what 
my first feelings and impressions were on beholding this thrice- 
glorious cataract, for I hardly am in the least conscious of what 
they were nryself I only know this ; it scarcely seemed to me 
at all like what any painting or any description had represented it 
to be, except only in the shape of the great Canadian Fall. 

When the train we were in stopped, the roar of the cataract 
burst on our ears most majestically. It was a moment of intense 
excitement, and on we hastened, and stood very shortly within a 
few feet of the verge of the American Fall, and looking on to the 
magnificent Horse Shoe. There we were in the audience-chamber 
of the great Water King. If one saw the sun for the first time, 
could one describe it ? Do not expect me yet to say any thing of 
Niagara ; at least any thing to the purpose. The garrulous mood 
will very likely come on me presently ; when, perhaps, I shall 
quite tire the reader with my rhapsodies, so that he may have 
cause to wi.sh all my powers of expression M^ere still frozen up by 



22 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

awe and admiration, like the notes in the horn, as related of Baron 
Munchausen. 

What a wonderful thing can water become I One feels, on 
looking at Niagara, as if one had never seen that element before. 
Were I to try and tell what I felt at ray second and third look at 
the Mighty Wonder, I think it was still confusion and bewilder- 
ment, mingled with a slight disappointment at the apparent height 
of the cataract, and A^ery much the reverse with regard to the 
general features and breadth ; and now I can most truly say it is 
lar more magnificent than I had anticipated it to be, though my 
expectations were of the very highest order. 

For the spray (I can already find courage to speak of that)-r-it 
is what' enchants me the most in the whole stupendously magnifi- 
cent scene. It is a very stormy windy day, carrying the huge 
columns of that beauteous spray to an immense height, so it is 
seen to the greatest advantage. I think it sometimes seems really 
celestial I it looks like something not of this world. This hotel is 
very close to the Falls, and, as I write, I have only to look up, to 
see them. The noise is extretaely fine, like the stormy roaring of 
a tempest-shaken sea, only the sound is more measured, and con- 
veys an idea of a calm, kingly defiance, altogether inexpressibly 
grand and solemn. 

Besides feeling as if it were a presumption to attempt to write 
about Niagara, thus in its overpowering presence, as it were, I 
find it very diflicult to write at all now, as I am draAvn to the 
window and balcony constantly (whence one sees both Falls fully), 
by the irresistible fascination of this most wonderful water ; and the 
changes that take place almost momentarily are a source of great 
interest. At one time it looks enveloped and almost hidden in 
spray; an instant afterward, perhaps, it shines forth fully reveal- 
ed ; nov/ it seems covered with gloom, and looks black and frown- 
ing, and full of wrath and terror ; and now the sun (which alone 
appears worthy to be its comrade and compeer) breaks Ibrth, and 
makes it all one glory. 

V is enchanted, and independently of the intense enjoy- 
ment Niagara aflbrds her, she is delighted to find herself once 
more in the country, where all looks beautifully green and fresh. 
Her bedroom window opens on the American Fall. I went there 
just now, to have a view from that side, and I can not tell how 
much one delights in the immense variety and diversified points 
of view these matchless cataracts present. 

Thounh I have been here so short a time, I think I have 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 23 



already seen them display a hundred difierent aspects. From 

V 's window I saw a wonderfully beautiful rainbow on the 

water ; one-half of the American Fall was in deep shadow, and 
the other in dazzling sunlight. A small cloud was just passing 
over the sun above it. 

I must now — the first overpowering impression having been 
(conquered — try to speak a little of what I think and feel about 
this glorious Fall. But what language could ever do justice to 
its more than magnificence 1 It seems to belong really to some 
grander world, of more gigantic proportions and subhmer features 
than our own. 

Before I came here, I erroneously supposed that one should be 
immensely struck, and overpowered, and enchanted at first, but 
that afterward there would be a certain degree of monotony at- 
tached to that unvarying sublimity, which I wrongly believed to 
be the great characteristic of Niagara. But, how miserably did I 
do it injustice I Perhaps the most peculiar and transcendent 
attribute of this matchless cataract, is its almo.st endless variety. 
The innumerable diversities of its appearance, the continual 
countless rapid alterations in its aspect ; in short, the perpetually 
varying phases which it displays, are indeed wondrous and truly 
indescribable. This is a great deal owing to the enormous volumes 
of spray which are almost incessantly shifting and changing their 
Ibrms like the clouds above. Niagara, indeed, has its own clouds, 
and they not only give it the great charm and interest of an ever- 
beautiful and exquisite variety, but also environ it with a lovely 
and bewildering atmosphere of mystery, which seems the very 
crown of its manifold perfections and glories. 

Niagara has its changes like the sea, and in its lesser space cir- 
cumscribed, they seem fully as comprehensive and multitudinous. 
I have dwelt long on this, because I do not remember to have 
seen this mighty and transcendent feature of Niagara particularly 
noticed in any of the descriptions I have ever read of it, and it has 
most especially delighted and astonished me. 

"VVe were so very fortunate as to have a tremendous thunder- 
storm here on Tuesday night, and it may be guessed what a tre- 
mendous thunder-storm must be here I The heavens seemed 
literally opening just over the great cataracts, and the intense- 
ly vivid lightning, brighter than day, lit up the giant Falls, 
and seemed mixed and mingling with the dazzling mountains of 
spray, which then looked more beautiful and beatific than ever. 
It was a wild windv niffht, as if all the elements wei'e revelling 



24 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. * 

together in a stormy chaotic carnival, of their own, till it really 
presented altogether a scene almost too awfully magnificent. 

The deafening roar of the crashing thunder was yet louder than 
the roar of the cataract, and completely appeared to drown it while 
it lasted; but the moment the stormy roll of the thunder died 
away, it was grand indeed to hear again the imposing, unceasing 
sound of Niagara — like the voice of a giant conqueror uttering a 
stunning but stately cry of victory. Then soon the bellowing 
thunder broke forth again, fiercer and louder than before ; and oh, 
the lightning ! it seemed like a white-winged sunbreak when it 
blazed on the snowy glare of the ever-foaming cataracts. 

I hardly ever saw before such dazzling lightning; and those 
reverberating peals of Niagara-out-voicing thunder were truly 
terrific, and appeared quite close. Heaven and earth seemed 
shouting to one another in those sublime and stupendous voices ; 
and what a glorious hymn they sang between them I At first, 
the lightning was only like summer flashes, and it kept glancing 
round the maddened waters as if playing with them, and defying 
them in sjiort ; but, after a little while, a fearful flash, updarted 
really like a sudden sun, behind the great Horse Shoe Fall, and the 
whole blazed out into almost unendurable light in a moment. 
The storm continued during the whole night. 

From our drawing-room windows we have a magnificent view 
of the Horse Shoe Fall, and almost the whole of the American one 
besides ; and what a sublime pomp and pageant of Nature it is ! 
What a thrilling, soul-stirring sight ; and, ever new and ever 
changing, and eternally suggesting fresh thoughts, fresh feelings 
and emotions. Just now, a violent gust of wind drove a huge 
cloud of spray quite on our side of the Canadian Falls, and it was 
hovering between the two glorious cataracts like a mighty, sus- 
pended avalanche, till it dispersed. This transcendently beautiful 
spray is generally most brilliantly white, like sunlit snow. We 
saw a vast resplendent rainbow on the water itself on Tuesday 
afternoon, of colors quite unimaginably bright, and we had a mar- 
velously glorious sunset last evening. There were flaming, blood- 
red reflections on the rocks, trees, and islands ; but the most deli- 
cate suflusions only, of a rich soft rose color, rested on the fantastic 
forms of the matchless spray — as if it softened and refined every 
thing that came near it, and made all that touched it as rare and 
exquisite as its own etherialized self He who has not seen, ean 
have no idea of the absorbing nature of the admiration excited in one's 
mind by this surpassing and astounding marvel of creation : I ieel 



ENTERPRISE OF AMERICANS. 25 

quite enthralled and fascinated by it, and time seems to fly by at 
an electric-telegraph pace here, while I am watching it. 

I feel so rooted and riveted to this spot by the unutterable en- 
chantments of this master-piece of Nature, I can scarcely believe 
that two days have passed since I first arrived. One becomes 
here, indeed, utterly Niagarized ; and, the great cataract goes 
sounding through all one's soul, and heart, and mind, commin- 
gling with all one's ideas and impressions, and uniting itself with 
all one's innermost feelings and fancies. The sounds of the Fall 
vary nearly as much as their aspect : sometimes very hollow, at 
other times solemn and full-toned, like an host of organs uttering 
out their grand voices together ; and sometimes, as I heard it said, 
the other day, with a rolling kettle-drum, gong-like sound, in ad- 
dition — as if it were a temporary and accidental accompaniment 
to their majestic oceanic roar. 1 have come liairiotically to the 
British side, but not from any want of liking for the mighty neigh- 
bors of the Canadians. 

Great injustice has been done to the Americans, and we have 
been accustomed too implicitly to believe the often unfair and un- 
founded reports of prejudiced travelers. Instead of discourteous 
and disobliging manners we find them all that is most civil and 
obliging. Among the less educated, no doubt, occasionally, some 
of the faults so unsparingly attributed to them, may be found ; 
but they appear to me, as far as I have had any opportunity of 
judging as yet, a thoroughly hospitable, kind-hearted, and gener- 
ous-minded people. 

And, then, what a noble, enterprising people they are I What 
miraculous progress and improvement is visible on every side in 
the United States. One town we came through, Bufl'alo, was, 
not many years ago, I was told, a mere Indian village : it is now 
a mighty city. Albany is also a magnificent town ; the streets are 
strikingly broad and straight ; — the trottoirs are about the width 
of Dover street I The steamers on the Hudson are perfect palaces, 
and fairy palaces to boot ! being the most delicate and finished 
creations of art, and fancy you can imagine ; larger than the far- 
famed " Great Britain," and apparently lighter than the rainbow- 
ed coracle of a nautical sylph : a floating island of painting, marble, 
gilding, stained glass, velvet hangings, satin draperies, mirrors in 
richly-carved frames, and sculptured ornaments, with beautiful 
vases of flowers, Chinese lamps of various indescribable fantastic 
forms, arabesques, chandeliers — in short, you might fancy yourself 
in Haroun Alraschid's palace. 

B 



26 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

It was very agreeable, steaming along in the Bucentaur-beating 
vessel, and loolcing on the fine scenery of the lovely Hudson, in the 
most charming, warm, soft, sunny weather. And now the po- 
tent wondrous magnet, the mighty mystery that mortals call Ni- 
agara, draws me to the windows, and I viust go and watch that 
world of wonders. By the way, what a fortunate thing it was 
that the noble old Indian name was retained for thh. How dis- 
tracting it would have been, to have had it named Smith's Fall, oi 
Patch's riuuge. 

It rains a little now, and the vast black clouds hovering near 
the snowy spray, have a truly noble and striking efiect ; like the 
shadowy Angel, Death, about to bound on his pale courser ; but 
every thing is noble and beauteous here ! there is scarcely a cloud in 
the sky that does not pay its tribute, and fling its fresh fairy-gift 
on these magical waters. I have, as yet seen nothing of moon- 
light and star-light on them. 

We sec, constantly, a small steamer, called " The Maid of the 
Mist," going almost close to the foot of the Falls. The River Ni- 
agara forms the outlet of the waters of Lake Erie, and of all the 
great Upper Lakes, which, together with Erie and Ontario, are 
estimated to contain nearly one half the fresh water on the surface 
of the globe I At the distance of about three-fourths of a mile 
above the Falls, the river begins a rapid descent, making, within 
this distance, a constant succession of slopes equal to about fifty- 
two feet on the American side, and fifty-seven on the Canadian. 
It forms an impetuous current just above the Falls, and turns a 
right angle to the northeast, and then its width becomes suddenly 
contracted, from three miles to three-quarters of a mile. The 
river's depth below the cataract exceeds three hundred feet. 
Goat, or Iris Island (containing somewhere about seventy-five 
acres) divides the gigantic cataract into two parts, but on the 
western, or British side, is the principal channel. The channel 
between Goat Island and the eastern shore is also divided by a 
small island. 

The noble river falls perpendicularly over the precipice from a 
hundred and seventy to two hundred feet. The Horse Shoe, oi 
Crescent Fall is so called I'rom its sliape : it looks to me like a 
mighty scooped-out throne lor some King of the oceans of a hun- 
dred worlds. In the eastern channel, between Goat and Luna 
Islands, the stream's breadth is only about ten yards : it forms a 
lonely, separate cascade, and assists one to form a due estimate of 
the enormous width of the aAvful cataracts thunderina- near it. 



HORSE SHOE FALL. 27 



Between Luna Island and the shore, with a comparatively shal- 
low stream, the descent of the Fall is said to be greater by several 
feet than at the Ilorse-shoe Fall. An ingeniously constructed 
bridge connects Goat Island with the shore, from whence you 
have an excellent view of the rapids ; indeed the bridge crosses 
the American branch of the river in the midst of them. You 
look on your right hand, and there is the roaring American Fall, 
almost close to you. 

Goat Island is a gem of beauty, and its lovely foliage and bow- 
ery Avalks seem to charm away a little of the overpowering awlul- 
ness from its tremendous neighbor. It is said that if, as is suppo- 
sed, the cataract has backed all the way from Queenstown, it 
must have taken about forty thousand years for it to recede to its 
present situation. 

The quantity of water precipitated over the Falls is estimated 
by Professor Dwight to be 11,521,375 tons per hour; by Darby 
at 1,672,704,000 cubic feet per hour, and by Pickens at 113,510, 
000, or 18,524,000 cubic feet a minute. 

Among the islands which diversify the surface of the Niagara 
River, is Grand Island, which contains 18,000 acres of good and 
lertile soil, covered with rich forests. Navy Island is another, and 
it terminates in a beautiful point about a mile and a half above 
the Fall. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Port Talbot — Canadian Carriages — Vast Extent of American "VVood.s — The 

Hotel at Port Stanley — Lake Erie — Mr. A and his Family— Col. 

Talbot, the " Last ol' the Mohicans" — Instance of the Memory of North 
American Indians — Another Story of the same Kind — A Recurrence to 
Niagara — A second Thunder-storm — American Forests — Lake Erie by 
Sunset — The IMaple and the Sugar made from it — Coldness of Canadian 
Winters. 

We arrived at Port Talbot, Canada West, a day or two ago 
from Niagara, where we staid a fortnight. This is a delightful 
place. We went back to Buffalo, then crossed a part of Lake 
Erie (we were a day and a night on board the steamer " London"), 
and, lauding at Port Stanley, we had some refreshments at the 
little hotel there, where we were well taken care of, by the parlic- 



28 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

ularly attentive and obliging projDvietors ; and then we came on 
in a hired carriage, through beautiful woods to this beautiful spot. 

The road, however, was not equally beautii'ul, and we broke down, 
which apparently not unforeseen accident our driver took very 
unconcernedly and philosophically, and immediately set about re- 
pairing the damage. A carriage breaking down is of little mo- 
ment indeed in the woods of Canada, where they are usually of a 
tough and rough kind, and where the charioteer (who, I believe, 
is generally expected to be somewhat experienced in this way), 
speedily rectifies the injury by cutting down the first likely tree 
by the road-side, and adapting it to his purpose by some " rough 
and ready" kind of craft. 

In this instance I had little doubt but that our damaged vehi- 
cle would come out of the hands of our Jehu nearly, if not quite, 
as good as new ; for its " build" was such, that he might very 
probably have been himself the coach-maker originally, as well as 
coach-driver and coach-breaker. We were soon jolting and pitch- 
ing along as merrily as ever, and arrived without any bones bro- 
ken, as we flattered ourselves, at the hospitable door of Port Tal- 
bot. Its kind and friendly proprietor, with Colonel and Mrs. 

A , his nephew and niece, received us with the most amiable 

cordiality, and we are quite enchanted with the place. 

The house is beautifully situated on a high bank close to Lake 
Erie, of which I have a magnificent view from my window. 
Within view of the house (which has splendid groups of trees 
close to it), stretch away mighty woods, which probably continue 
without interruption, except from the lakes and the strides of 
American civiUzation in Michigan and Wisconsin, to the very 
shores of the Pacific. I could not have " realized" such enormous 
worlds of woods as I have even already seen, without beholding 
them with my own eyes. 

On our way from Port Stanley here, we passed numbers of neat, 
newly-erected wooden houses of emigrants, looking generally very 
comfortable, and occasionally exceedingly pretty ; with the bright 
cheerful-looking clearings about them, and the grandeur of the fine 
sombre old forests stretching away around them, as if to shut out 

the very-day worldly M'orld. Colonel and Mrs. A have 

made this house delightfully comfortable, and there is an air of 
true English comfort and of that indescribable refinement, which 
the gorgeously-furnished saloons and chambers of the hotels we 
have lately been at in New York and other places, did not pos- 
sess. Every thing is in the perfection of good taste. The draw- 



"LAST OF THE MOHICANS." 29 

ing-room is a most charming apartment, with large windows 
reaching down to the ground, presenting a lovely view of that 
fresh-water sea, Lake Erie. 

My own room is really quite luxuriously appointed in some 
particulars ; first and foremost with regard to some splendid deco- 
rations and draperies of beautiful old Greek lace, which our fair 
hostess brought with her from the Ionian Islands, where she had 
resided for some time (what a change from such an ancient world 
as grand old Greece, to this grand young one, Canada I) but there 
is nothing gaudy, and nothing that looks out of place here -or un- 
suited to the general character of simplicity of the house, owing to 
the exquisite arrangement of all the subordinate parts, and the 
graceful tact with which every thing has been ordered and con- 
trived. 

The amiable lady of the house tells me she went through a 
great deal of discomfort when they first established themselves 
here, which I can readily believe ; but she seems to make a capital 
and very contented emigrant now. Her charming children — one 
or more of whom are little Greeks, that is, born in Corfu — .seem 
to have suffered nothing from the rigor of a Canadian winter, and 
they appear thoroughly to enjoy a Canadian summer. Colonel 
Talbot does not live in this house, but in a sort of shanty, which 
agrees extremely with my idea (probably a very imperfect one) of 
an Indian wigwam, close by. He is going, almost immediately, 
to rebuild it, and make a good-sized comfortable house of it. 

His life has been replete with adventures, since he came out 
here as a settler between forty and fifty years ago. He has per- 
formed almost prodigies here, and possesses immense tracts of coun- 
try in these wild regions. In former days he used to milk his 
own cows, and drive them home from their pasturing places, for 
many miles sometimes ; and besides, he did all the household work 
in his establishment ; cooked, churned butter, washed, &c. His 
energy and perseverance were finally rewarded with great success ; 
and he is lord of almost a principality here, and of a very flourish- 
ing one, apparently, too. He tells me he is in reality " the last of 
the Mohicans," having been adopted many years ago into this 
gallant tribe, and called by them by an Indian name, which I will 
not attempt to spell. He told me a remarkable instance of the 
accurate memory of the North American Indians. It seems that, 
having been away, and not having seen any of the tribe for a great 
many years, one day, on his return, he met an Indian, whom he 
did not in the least recognize, but who, the moment he saw him, 



30 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

repeated sol'lly his Indian name in the usual, calm, impressive man- 
ner ol" the red man. Another story, not oi" a Mohican, but of a 
gentleman, apparently quite as cool in his proceedings, amused me 
much. It api)ears, some years ago, the colonel called to his serv- 
ant to bring him some warm water for shaving purposes. The 
servant did not answer ; and after repeatedly calling in vain, Colonel 
Talbot ascertained at length that the man had marched off, having, 
I believe, spoken belbre of leeling discontented where he Avas, but 
without giving any reason to think he would shake the dust of Port 
Talbot irom his shoes so suddenly. Some years afterward. Col- 
onel Talbot one morning called ibr warm water, and in walked 
the truant, most demurely, jug in hand, and proceeded to take upon 
himself all his once repudiated valet duties, in the most quiet and 
regular manner imaginable, as if he had never been absent from 
his post for an hour. He alluded not to what had occurred ; nor 
did Colonel '.falbot. The Mohican could not easily surpass that, 
I think, in coolness and self-possession, and Colonel Talbot, too, 
was evidently not made one of the tribe for nothing. It reminds 
me of a Yankee story of a man who sent his young son for a log 
to put on the lire. The son brought a mere stick, and papa whip- 
ped him ; so the young gentleman went out again for a large log, 
and — never returned ; at least not till twenty-five years after- 
wards, when, one evening, the choleric, corporal-punishment-lov- 
ing old gentlemen, was calling to one of his grandsons to bring in 
a " large log for the fire," and in stalked son number 1, 2, or 3, as 
the case might be, who had so unconscionably absented himself, 
with a Brobdignagian log in his dexter hand. The old gentleman 
looked quietly up, examined the log, threw it carelessly on the fire, 
and then addressed his returned runaway : " This 'ere log '11 do ; 
but you've been a darned long time a-fetehing it." 

Let me go back to Niagara. The reader may imagine our good 
fortune ; we had a second thunder-storm there, far finer than the 
first. It continued through the whole night, and the lightning 
was unspeakably terrific, like a long succession of rising suns be- 
hind the falls, dazzling, bewildering, almost blinding it was; but 
most inconceivably, incounnunicably glorious. A church was 

struck not lar ofi", and severely damaged. V is much afraid 

generally, during a thunder-storm ; but we both fortunately hap- 
pened to tliink it was sheet lightning (for till it comes very near, 
you can not hear the thunder lor the chorus of the cataracts). 
13ut lor this 1 think she would have been much alarmed, for the 
sight was awfully tremendous. 



CANADIAN WINTERS. 31 

As it was she even ventured to look at it from the balcony. 
How almost supernaturally sublime it looked I Between all the 
flashes, for a moment or two it was pitchy dark ; then, when out- 
leaped the piercing lightning, the cataracts burst into full view, 
instantaneously of course, in all their overwhelming majesty and 

grandeur. V exclaimed that it looked like Vesuvius in vast 

eruption (which she saw last year), hovering and blazing over 
Niagara ; and really it was a very fair simile, if you can imagine 
an intermittent Vesuvian eruption. 

I think, next to Niagara, I admire these enormous forests, with 
their wild wondrous luxuriance of foliage, of every exquisite shade 
of the most lustrous and resplendent green : they are sublime. 
Lake Erie looked splendid in a very fine sunset the other evening. 
It seemed almost paved with many-colored jewels, and long bars 
of light, of divers and brilliant hues, crossed it. At another time, 
it appeared strewn all over, from the horizon to the shore, with 
myriads of all sorts and species of roses I 

Among the many beauteous trees here, I have admired much 
the sugar maples. By the way, I tasted some of the sugar the 
other day, and thought it excellent. In tea or colFee I should not 
know it from the cane sugar ; but alone, it tastes, I think, very 
much like sugar-candy. The children had a little pic-nic in the 

woods. V was superlatively happy, superintending various 

cookings and contrivings. 

Our charming hostess says this place is so cold in the winter, 
that even with an enormous fire in her room, her ink has firozen 
in the inkstand while she has been writing a letter. I suppose 
this is owing to the isolated situation of the house, and to the im- 
mense forests almost contiguous to it, for I believe no such inten- 
sity of cold (or very rarely) is experienced in the cities and towns 
of Canada. 



CHAPTER V. 

Return to New York-r-Courtesy and Hospitality of the Americans — Butter- 
flies and Humming-birds — Railroads through American Forests — Rapid 
Progress ol" American Civilization — Port Stanley — Captain Bawbee — De- 
scription oiMJiillalo — Trading Facilities of that Citj'- — The United States' 
Military Academy — Monument to Kosciusko — His Garden — West Point 
—The Traitor Arnold and IMajor Andre — Constitution Island — Oppressive 
Heat of the Weather. 

We again find ourselves, on the 2'5th June, in the busy, stirring, 
populous, go-ahead State of New Yoi'lc. We have sufl'ered much 
IVoin the heat : it was really intense during our journey. The 
number of people who are said to have died from the eficcts of 
coup dc soldi here, is quite extraordinary. 

I like the Americans more and more : either they have im- 
proved wonderfully lately, or else the criticisms on them have 
been cruelly exaggerated. They are particularly courteous and 
obliging ; and seem, I think, amiably anxious that foreigners 
shunld carry away a favorable impression of them. As for me, let 
othci- travelers say what they please of them, I am determined 
not 1:; be prejudiced, but to judge of them exactly as I find them ; 
and 1 shall most pertinaciously continue to praise them (if I see 
no good cause to alter my present humble opinion), and most es- 
pecially for their obliging civility and hospitable attention to 
strangers, of Avhich I have already seen several instances. 

I have witnessed but very lew isolated cases, as yet, of the 
unrefined habits so usually ascribed to them ; and those cases 
decidedly were not among the higher orders of people ; for there 
seems just as much difierence in America as any where else in 
some respects. The superior classes here have almost always 
excellent manners, and a great deal of real and natural, as well 
as acquired relinement, and ai"e often besides (which perhaps avIU 
not be believed in fastidious England) extremely distinguished 
looking. By the way, the captains of the steam- boats appear a 
remarkably gentlemanlike race of men in general, particularly 
courteous in their deportment, and very considerate and obliging to 
the passengers. 

I must not forget to mention the delight with which, at Port 
Talbot, we beheld some beautiful humming-birds flying about in 



IIAPID PROGRESS OF AMERICA. 33 

the garden, and such gorgeous butterflies ; it was quite a pleasure 
to look at them I It seemed so strange to see these tropical-looking 
humming-birds fluttering about amid the bowers and trees, tliat 
we know are doomed to be stripped of all their beauty by tlic icy 
terrors of the severe Canadian winter. But these little, delicate, 
diminutive winged "flowers of loveliness" migrate. They leave 
the winter behind them : those lovely, tiny, glittering wings bear 
the little feathered miniatures to the sunny south, to revel among 
magnolias and roses, when here all is snow or storm. 

Though we had a very hot journey from Builalo to New York, 
yet we had the advantage, lor a considerable part of the way, of 
going through charmingly shadowy forests. E,ailroads in the 
United States are not like railroads in other countries, for they fly, 
plunging through the deep umbrageous recesses of these vasty, 
widely-spreading woods, whose sweeping verdure-loaded boughs, 
go arching and branching about the "cars" in all directions, shed- 
ding a deep, delicious, intensely-green light around, which bathes 
every thing and every body in a sea of molten emerald, and is e» 
cessively refreshing to the passengers' eyes, though eminently un- 
becoming to the said passengers' complexions ; for they all look 
there exactly as if they were playing at "snap dragon," and the 
very ruddiest, and most rubicund turn to a sort of livid, ghastly, 
plague-struck looking green ; but this may serve to give you an 
idea, peradventure (and, I assure you, not an exaggerated one), of 
the cool, and verdant, and deeply-tinted reflections from, these 
overshadowing masses of forests. 

Every thing in nature and art almost seems to flourish here. 
Schools, universities, manufactories, societies, institutions, a])pear 
spreading over the length and breath of the land, and all seem on 
such a gigantic scale here too I Lakes, forests, rivers, electric 
telegraphs, hotels, conflagrations, inundations, rows, roads, acci- 
dents, tobacco, juleps, bowie krdves, beards, pistols, &c. I modera- 
tion or littleness appear not to belong to America, where Nature 
herself leads the way and seems to abhor both, showing an exam- 
ple of leviathanism in every thing, which the people appear well 
inclined to follow. 

We were quite sorry to leave charming Fort Talbot. V 

intensely regretted the poultry, the pic-nics, the sweet pickaninnies, 
and the ponies, besides divers other bewitching dehghts ; and I 
lamented over my beauteous bower of old Greek lace, my splendid 
view of the lovely Lake Sea, and, above all, the kind friends who 
had made our sojourn there so exceedingly enjoyable. 

B* - ■ 



34 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

"\A"o Imd an oncluiuting drive through the glorious ibrest on our 

return to Port Stanley in Mrs. A 's carriage, Colonel A 

driving- us. It M'as very diliereut from the bunipinfr, thumping-, 
break-bone, and break-down vehicle we had niacle our last little 
journev iu tlu-ough those noble woods. By the time we got to 
Port t>tanley the steamer was ready to start ; and after inquiring 
concerning the liealth of our kind hostess at tiie hotel, we put 
ourselves on board the "London," under Captain Bawbee's obliging 
care. This singular nauio is pronounced Baby, which had a rather 
curious etli'ct when you heard it addressed to a very manly-looking 
and tall person, which the captain of the good steamer " Loudon"' 
happened to be. Onr voyage over, we stopped at Butililo, which 
is situated at the northeast end of Lake Erie. It has altogether 
a couuuanding position as a place of business, being at the western 
extremity of the Erie Canal, and at the eastern termination of 
the navigation of those mighty lakes, Erie, Huron, and Michigan. 
The city is partly built on high ground, and commands extensive 
views of the Lake, Niagara Iviver, and the Canadian shore. Its 
population is about forty thousand. JMain-street is a very hand- 
some street, more than two miles long, and 120 feet broad. 

Butliilo has a court-house, a county clerk's oiiice, a jail and 
two markets, in the upper story of one of which is to be found the 
common council chamber and city ollices. There are about twenty 
churches, several baidvS, a theatre, and numerous very excellent 
and capacious hotels. The one we were at, the Western, was an 
exceeiiingly good one, and we experienced there the greatest civility 
and attention. 

A pier, extending fifteen hundred feet, on the south side of the 
mouth of Buii'alo Creek (which creek forms the liarbor of Bulialo), 
constitutes a substantial breakwater for the protection of vessels 
from the furious gales occasionally experienced there. There is a 
handsome lighthouse, forty-six feet high, and twenty in diameter, 
placed at the head of the pier, built of a yellow-tinged lime-stone. 

ButUilo. from the trading facilities it enjoys by the canal and 
railroad, iu connection with the lake navigation, is a great com- 
mercial mart, that lake navigation having an extent of some thou- 
sands of miles. With Albany it has couununication on the cast 
by canal, and thence by a regular chain of railroads live hundred 
and twenty-live miles long, on with Boston. And on the north- 
east it is also connected by railroad with the Niagara Falls and 
Lewiston. What a mighty city will this most likely be twenty 
yeai"s hence ! 



CONSTITUTION ISLAND. 35 

We came from Albany in a rapid and beautiful steamer called 
the " Alida ;" the day was almost insuflcrably hot, and the quan- 
tity of ice-water consumed by the passengers was truly prodioious. 
We took up some very military-looking- students at West Point, 
from " the United States Military Academy" there. Their uni- 
form was haudsoine, though very simple, and they were as upright 
as Prussian soldiers. The academy was established in 1802. 
There are, I understand, two stone barracks, a building lor winter 
exercises, two hundred and seventy-five iijet long ; a Gothic building, 
one hundred and fifty feet long, with three towers for astronomical 
apparatus, and an observatory ; a chapel, an hospital, a mess-hall ; 
seventeen separate dwellings for officers connected with the insti- 
tution ; workshops, cavalry-stables, store-rooms, laboratory, and a 
magazine, with various other buildings, including twenty-five dwell- 
ings, lor families belonging to the establishment. There is a mon- 
ument on the grounds, erected to Kosciusko, by the cadets, at an 
expense of five thousand dollars. On the river bank is " Kosciusko's 
garden," whither the Polish chief was wont to retire for meditation 
or study. 

West Point was one of the most impoiiant fortresses during the 
great Revolutionary War : it was considered the key of the coun- 
try, as it commanded the river, which admitted vessels of heavy 
burden as far as Hudson, and hindered the English from holding- 
communication with Canada. The English conunanders, on this 
account, were very desirous of obtaining it, and its surrender was 
to have been the first fruit of the treason of Arnold ; but in this 
he was balked by the arrest of the unfortunate Major Andre. 

On the east shore, opposite to West Point, is " Constitution 
Island," where are the ruined remains of a fort, erected during 
the Revolution. A huge chain was extended from the island to 
West I'oint, to obstruct the passage of the river by the troops. 
Part of this identical chain is said to be shown now at West 
Point. 

The scenery was extremely lovely all about there — the Hudson 
Highlands wearing all their sunny, summer beauty. One can 
hardly imagine that blackest of all demons, War, flinging his 
hideous shadow over such a charming, smiling, lovely prospect ; 
but what scene of beauty or gracefulness does he ever respect ? 

A nnle above West Point, is the '* West Point Iron Foundry," 
which claims to be the most extensive estabhshment of the kind 
in the country. I think of going to Washington when this blaz- 
ing weather moderates a little, taking, oi route, Philadelphia and 



36 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Baltimore. The thermometer here and in the neighborhood has 
heen 98° and 100°, they say, in the shade, and people declare it 
was never so hot in New York before — at least not for many years. 
At Albany wc found the heat, if possible, more oppressive : not a 
breath of air seemed stirring. Suddenly we hailed with delight a 
gentle movement of the light muslin curtain round the window, 

indicating a soft wind. V rushed to the windoAV to inhale 

it, but as speedily rushed back again, declaring it was as hot as the 
air of ten furnaces. The present is a broiling morning : a sky 
like a great turquoise roof on Jire, a sun like a hundred suns, a 
breathless clear atmosphere, without the least dream of any thing 
that reminds you of air — and there is a thundering salute going on 
now (lor what, I know not, unless they are saluting the sun, who 
certainly seems victorious over every thing and every body just 
now, striking down man and horse) vi'hich cruelly makes one think 
of " villainous saltpetre, "and such hot compounds, when Wenham 
Lake ice, and the expedition to the North Pole, are the only lit 
and pleasant subjects lor reflection at present. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Boston — The Park — The Tremont Hotel — Its hixurious Appointments — Mr. 
and jMrs. Abbott Lawrence — The " Book ol" the World" — Description of 
Boston; Tlie Bridges — Their Immense length — The Western Avenue — 
Boston Harbor — Anticipated Ixcjoicings on the Anniversary of American 
Independence — Boston Newspapers and Reviews — Supply of Water to the 
City — Its Docks and Wharves — -Public Buildinfjs — The State House — 
The Custom House — The Athenaeum — The Exchange and Lowell Insti 
tute. — The crowded Stores — Constant Alarm of Fires. 

On July 3d we arrived at Boston, and took up our quarters at 
the Tremont House. 

Boston is a very handsome, very large, and very clean toAvn, 
apparently kept in admirable order : it has a pretty little park, 
called by the modest name of "the Common," and a splendid 
State House, magnificently situated on Beacon Hill ; this is a very 
imposing looking structure, and crowns the height superbly. The 
town reminds me of an English one in many respects, but yet more 
of a Dutch one. 

To-morrow they have a grand commemorative festival, in honor 
of their independence, and we, poor English, must make up our 



COMMEMORATION OF INDEPENDENCE. 37 

minds to hear them " Yankee-doodhng," and " Hail Columbia- 
ing," all day long. I shall shut myself up pretty closely on the 
occasion to save my feelings of nationality, especially as I have no 
idea of seeing " the Crown of England" burnt in a fire-work and 
consumed to ashes, as it is announced in a pompous advertisement 
it is going to be, for the pleasing recreation of Brother Jonathan. 
I hope, I must confess, that just at that moment it will rain in 
torrents, and put out their very impertinent and presumptuous 
pyrotechnics without loss of time : the English crown thus may 
not be consumed to a cinder after all. 

It will be suspected that- 1 am exceedingly wroth against said 
Brother Jonathan just now I but it is a spite and anger confined 
exclusively to the 4th of July ! and on the 5th I shall be quite 
friends with him again ; nay, I almost think my fury may be 
hushed before the 4th itself dawns ; though, if what I hear is cor- 
rect of the immense and noisy excitement in general through the 
whole night preceding " Independence day," the lullaby will be 
of a rather rough description ! But our American cousins are 
such a good-humored, kindly-dispositioned people, that I think one 
could not well be sulky with them long. Apropos of noise — I 
believe, to keep our tempers a little, it would be a good plan to 
stufi'our ears with cotton, and so be ^^independent,'" in our turn, 
of their uncivil serenadings, salutings, drummings, trumpetings, 
and fireworkings. 

The Americans are very busy just now abusing the French for 
their Roman war : they call them cowards, and all sorts of hard 
names. As they are in this mood they might as well, for variety's 
sake burn the Gallic liberty-cap to-morrow instead of the crown 
of England. They are, evidently, very indignant at the anti- 
republican turn afliiirs are taking in France. However, France 
has become lately such a spinning, twisthig-about, volcanic tee-to- 
tum, that who can guess what news the next steamer may bring out ] 

To-day is a beauteous day — not too hot, yet sunny-bright, and 
with «, charming fresh breeze. We have comfortable, quiet, pri- 
vate apartments in this huge hotel : our drawing-room is a very 
nice one, and is quite away irom all the bustle of visitors arriving 
and departing. The master, or rather masters (for there are two, 
if not more), are extremely civil ; and the attendance is very good. 
Finger-posts are placed in some of the passages to direct bewilder- 
ed and foot-sore wanderers to their own rooms. I think a lew 
light omnibuses might run on the difierent lines of passage with 
much profit, Immense as the hotel is, our apartments are so 



38 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

secluded that we hear hut little noise, and suffer no inconvenience 
whatever from the house being very full. I have not yet dined 
one day in public since my arrival in America — it must be ex- 
tremely unpleasant for ladies. 

We have made acquaintance with Mr. and Mrs. Abbott Law- 
rence (Mr. Bancroft was good enough to give me letters to them 

at Lady J 's request, as I had not the pleasure of knowing 

him) ; they leave America in October. They are most kind and 
friendly ; he is one of the great merchant princes of this wonder- 
ful land, and a very distinguished man ; and Mrs. Lawrence ap- 
pears to be every thing that is amiable and kind. Mr. Lawrence 
has just given me a very interesting book, called " The Book of 
the World :" it is replete with information, and is written nearly 
up to the present day, and it really seems to be almost what it 
calh itself, which is a pretty " considerable deal." 

This good city of Boston is connected with the surrounding 
country by bridges and artificial avenues, being built upon a pen- 
insula of nearly three miles in length, with an average breadth of 
a mile, and with many elevations from fifty to one hundred and 
ten feet above the sea, giving the city a remarkably noble appear- 
ance, particularly, I am told when beheld from the sea, which 
view of it I have not yet seen. The population is one hundred 
and twenty-five thousand. Its Indian name was Shawmut, but 
the first settlers called it Trimountain, from the three hills on 
which it is built. 

Boston communicates with East Boston (formerly Noddle's 
Island) and Chelsea by means of steam ferry-boats, which ply 
regularly during the day. Among the most pecuhar curiosities of 
the place are the bridges, which differ in their construction from 
any thing of their kind elsewhere, and their immense length and 
the lovely views they present, make them very interesting and 
attractive, especially to foreigners. With Roxbury, Boston is 
connected by the neck which forms the peninsula on which the 
city is built. With Charlestown it is united by the Charles River, 
or Old Charlestown Bridge, and by Warren Bridge. The former 
is one thousand four hundred and three feet long, forty-two in 
breadth, and cost more than fifty thousand dollars. Warren 
Bridge is one thousand three hundred and ninety feet ; breadth, 
forty-five. No toll is taken on these bridges : there was one for- 
merly ; but on their becoming state property it was done away with. 

West Boston Bridge, leading to Old Cambridge, rests on one 
hundred and eighty piers, and, with causeway and abutments, is 



BOSTON BRIDGES AND HARBOR. 39 

six thousand one hundred and ninety feet long. Craigie's or 
Canal Bridge, leading to Lechmere Point, in East Cambridge, is 
two thousand seven hundred and ninety-six feet long and ibrty feet 
broad : a branch extends from it to Prison Point, Charlestown, one 
thousand eight hundred and twenty feet long, and thirty-five feet 
wide. The western avenue or mill-dam reaches from the foot of 
Beacon-street to Sewell's Point in Brookline. It is strongly con- 
structed of stones and earth, and is a mile and a half long, and 
from sixty to one hundred feet broad. 

This incloses about six hundred acres of flats, over which for- 
merly the tide flowed. This inclosure is divided by a cross darn, 
which, aided by flood and ebb-gates, forms a receiving basin, pro- 
ducing thereby a great extent of water-power at all periods. This 
work cost about seven hundred thousand dollars. Boston Free 
Bridge, to South Boston, is five hundred feet long, thirty-eight 
wide. South Boston Bridge, leading from the " Neck" to South 
Boston, is one thousand five hundred and fifty feet long ; width 
forty feet.* They are all well lighted by lamps, and in addition 
to them, numerous as they are, there are various railroad bridges 
or viaducts over the river. Docs not Boston deserve to be called 
the City of Bridges ? 

It possesses one of the best harbors in the United States. The 
harbor extends from Nantaskct to the city, and spreads from Na- 
hant to Hingham, containing seventy-five square miles : it con- 
tains many islands, among them some beautiful ones : it is safe 
and spacious. The inner harbor has a depth of water sufficient 
for five hundred vessels of the largest class to ride at anchor in 
safety, with so narrow an entrance as scarcely to admit two ships 
abreast. Boston consists of three parts : Boston on the Peninsula, 
South Boston, and East Boston. The "Neck," or Isthmus, which 
formerly constituted the only connection of the Peninsula with the 
main land, still forms the main avenue to the city from the south. 
Boston harbor is defended by forts Independence and Warren, the 
latter of which is on Governor Island, and the former on Castle 
Island. The outside harbor is protected by a strong fortress on 
George's Island. 

Of course sight-seeing to-morrow is out of the question, and from 
the moment when the sun rises on seas of sherry-cobblers and cata- 
racts of mmt-juleps, miles of flags, wildnernesses of crackers, pyramids 
of edibles, mountains of loUypops, and monster-trains, and legions 

* These figures arc taken from " Applcton's Railway Companion." 



40 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

of little boys (and little girls, too, if my information be correct), who, 
I hear, generally shoot with pistols at friend, or foe, or each other, 
during the day, and frequently end by maiming themselves severe- 
ly — there will be no peace in Boston. But though I did not like 
their promised entertainment of fireworks, yet, when I recollect 
how abominably ill England behaved before she forced this country 
into a revolution, I can — nationality notwithstanding — rejoice with 
them a little in their joy at the return of the Anniversary of their 
Independence, and feel a slight something of their exuberant exult- 
ation, and, therefore, not only endure philosophically, but greet 
cordially, their festive demonstrations — 'except the fireworks and 
that thrice villainous and atrocious device. They stick in my 
throat terribly. I wonder whether it will rain to-morrow evening I 

In my transatlantic travels, I do not feel so far away from home 
as I thought I should ; the Cunard steamers are so regular and 
rapid in their passage, they are now generally here to the day they 
are expected. What a fast age we live in ! 

The American newspapers amuse me much ; they are so unlike 
any thing else of their kind. There are thirty-six newspapers 
published here, of which twelve are daily, the rest are semi- week- 
ly and weekly. In addition to these, there are a good many reviews 
and magazines. " The North American Pveview" is, I believe, 
the most distinguished of the former. 

Boston is capitally provided with water from Long Pond, now 
named Cochituate Lake. This lake covers an area of six hund- 
red and fifty-nine acres, and drains a surface of eleven thousand 
four hundred acres. In some places it is seventy feet deep, and is 
elevated one hundred and twenty- four feet above tide-water in 
Boston harbor : the Boston reservoir, situated on Beacon-hill, 
covers an area of forty thousand feet. The water is brought in an 
oval aqueduct, in height six feet four inches, and five feet in width, 
laid in brick (with the hydraulic cement), about fourteen miles and 
a half from Cochituate Lake to Brookline, where it discharges 
itself into a reservoir of thirty acres in extent. 

The water from Brookline is forced by its own pressure through 
pipes of thirty and thirty-five inches in diameter, to the two reser- 
voirs in the city ; that on Mount Washington, at South-Boston, 
which will contain a superficies of seventy thousand, and that on 
Beacon Hill, of thirty-eight thousand feet. When full, the latter 
will contain three millions of gallons. These reservoirs will de- 
liver to the city of Boston ten millions of gallons a day of the 
purest and best water. Wise Bostonians ! 



PUBLIC BUILDINGS OF BOSTON. 41 

The entire cost of the construction I have heard will probably 
fall within three millions of dollars. Wise Bostonians I I say 
again : they will probably save that much in drugs and medicine 
ere many years pass over their heads. The doctors must be the 
only people who will suffer from this Hberal supply of the pure 
element. 

The docks and wharves surrounding the city form one of its 
distinctive features. There are about two hundred of them. 
Long Wharf is one thousand eight hundred feet long, and two 
hundred feet wide, and contains seventy-six spacious stores. There 
are numbers of fine public buildings here. The State House is 
among the finest : its foundation is one hundred and ten feet 
above the level of the sea. From the dome there is a splendid 
view of the city, the bay, with its lovely islands, and the wide ex- 
panse of surrounding country : the Bostonians boast that it is one of 
the finest views in the Union, if not in the world. The last is say- 
ing too much. Here the State Legislature holds its annual session. 

The new Custom House is handsome : it is in the form of a 
cross, and has very superb porticoes. The Court House is a fine 
building : the material is Quincy granite. The Athenaeum, in 
Beacon-street, has a library of about forty-five thousand volumes, 
and a rich cabinet of coins, medals, &c. The Exchange is a fine 
structure ; it was finished in 1842. The Lowell Institute was 
founded by a Mr. Lowell, who died at Bombay, in 1836. He 
bequeathed about two hundred and fifty thousand dollars for the 
support of regular courses of popular and scientific lectures : by his 
will he provides for the maintenance and support of public lectures 
on natural and revealed religion, physics, chemistry, with their 
applications to the arts, geology, botany, and other useful and in- 
teresting subjects. These lectures are all free ; they are delivered 
from October to April, during which period four or five courses (of 
twelve lectures each) are usually delivered. 

This town has a multitude of stores teeming with goods of every 
description, which are actually running over from their crammed 
and loaded shelves and counters, and often blockade the foot-pave- 
ments : they told us the people were so honest, that those unpro- 
tected goods, literally thrown at their feet, were never carried off; 
but I have seen complaints of the custom in the papers occasion- 
ally — accounts, not of shop-lifting exactly, but side- walk-lifting, with 
observations as to the impropriety of thus almost tempting poor peo- 
ple to be dishonest. I recollect when I first visited Genoa, think- 
ing art and fancy seemed to overflow there from the very windows 



42 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

of its stately palaces, so gorgeous were the richly-coloured paint- 
ings of saints, historical personages, and other subjects on their 
walls. Here more suitably to the character of the people, it is in- 
dustry and utilitarianism that can hardly be contained within 
bounds and limits. 

There are constant alarms of fires here. I think hardly a night 
has passed, without our hearing the engines going full speed some- 
where or other ; but in general it proves a false alarm, and after 
posting along in " hot haste," on linding all cool and quiet where 
they were bound to, they come deliberately back, to make the 
same little '" promenade'" again on the following night. 

The first night, V and I were quite anxious to ascertain 

where the dreadful lire could be, for the engines went thundering 
through tlie streets at a terrific pace, making a prodigious noise : 
we soon found that we might sit up all niglit, and every night at 
Boston, if we paid any attention to these gad-about engines taking 
their gallops about every hail-hour. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Plans for the Future — Musical Taste of the New Englanders — Cholera in 
New York — Transparency of the American Atmosphere — American 

Newspapers — Their Personalities — A signal instance — Airs. S. INI of 

New York ami her Family — Aliss G of Boston — The Lond Talking 

ascribed to American Ladies — The Town of Gloucester — Its Trade. 

On the 27th July we came to Cape Ann Pavilion, Gloucester, 
Massachusetts. The place is truly charming. The hotel is al- 
most iu the sea, like a very huge and gayly-decorated bathing ma- 
chine — (the only one here by the way I) There is a wide, beau- 
tiful covered veranda all round the house ; then comes a ivee 
narrow strip of beach, then a low stone wall, some rocks, and then 
the Atlantic, so close, that I can not imagine the house can be 
quite safe in winter, unless they intend to strengthen and heighten 
the defensive wall. The hotel is quite new. It may be imagined 
how clean, and fresh, and nice it is. 

As to traveling about, and seeing sights, in so hot a climate as 
America is in the summer, it is out of the question, I find ; but, this 
I believe is an ttnusually hot summer — the hottest, I am told, 
but one, they have had for twenty-four years. I think of staying 
quietly at the sea, till summer is over, and it is safe and pleasant 



CHOLERA IN NEW YORK. 43 

to travel ; of course, this will necessarily prolong my stay : every 
body assures me I must not think of going southward till Octo- 
ber, particularly this year, considering cholera and the great heat. 

I think we have ibrtunately found a very quiet and healthy 
spot here. I was going to Newport, but heard of this being so 
very nice, that I thought I would try it first, and I think I shall re- 
main here for some time. We have delightful rooms on the ground 
floor, opening on the sea. It is very much like being ailoat in a 
line-of- battle ship, we are so close to the grand old Atlantic. 

The New Englanders appear to me generally a very quiet peo- 
ple, and very fond of music : we hear them playing and singing a 
great deal. Some of them sing exceedingly well, too, airs out of 
Italian operas, &c. They have a good piano-forte in the ladies' 
public drawing-room, which has plenty of work on its hands, or 
rather plenty of hands on its keys from morning till night. They 
have an excellent piano-forte maker at Boston named Chickering. 

I hear IVom New York of a sad increase of cholera iu that city. 
My correspondent, poor Mrs. Barclay, who writes in evident low 
spirits, tells me of the death of some of their friends from this ter- 
rible disease : one of her own family had had it slightly. I believe 
the wisest thing to do is to dismiss the subject from the mind as 
much as possible, putting one's whole trust where safety and pro- 
tection can alone be fonnd. At the same time, of course, it is right 
to be properly prepared, and to use the necessary remedies at the 
very first moment of alarm, and to be prudent and careful in diet. 
From all I can learn of the spread of cholera on this side of the At- 
lantic, I believe most of the fatal cases arise from carelessness and 
neglect at first, and total disregard of the premonitory symptoms. 

The weather is lovely in this delectable place. I think the at- 
mosphere in America is much like that in beauteous Italy, it is so 
exquisitely clear and transparent. Thus the grand features of 
this country are presented to the eye through a lovely lucid medium, 
and it is indeed a country of " magnificent distances," as some one 
named its unfinished capital. As yet, however, we have seen but 
little of it, and that little seems less when we recollect lioio much 
there is to be seen. 

Pine-apples and newspapers are rather cheap here I The first 
(and Jine ones) at a penny apiece (owing a good deal to the preva- 
lence of cholera, which makes people afraid of eating them), and 
the second, I am told, many of them at a lialf-jienny (English) — 
these are of course small, but really sometimes full of information 
and news. Some of their most distinguished papers are admirably 



44 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

written, and replete with varied and extensive information and 
tidings from all the corners of the earth ; there seems in general in 
their tone, I think, more heartiness of feeling and more freshness 
and originality than in ours. What I do not like in the daily 
American press, is the perpetual and sometimes puerile and paltry 
attempts at wit and humor, which they seem to think indispensa- 
ble, whether in season or out of season. They sometimes mingle 
this often rather ponderous pleasantry with the most serious accounts 
of accidents and disasters. Then their abuse of the authorities 
and people in office is beyond all idea violent. In the opposition 
papers, the most unmerciful vituperations are poured forth against 
some of their most eminent men ; really if you did not see their 
names you would sometimes think they were speaking of the most 
atrocious criminals. It might almost make one imagine that three- 
quarters of the population are in a state of perpetual irritation and 
disappointment at not being President themselves, or at least, 
Secretary of State. 

Taylor is one of the most popular of men, and all seem to be 
proud of, as well as attached to, their far-famed "Old Zack ;" yet 
I have seen such epithets as these applied to him in their public 
prints — "Journeyman butcher," "Moloch," "Monster," "Nero," 
" Tyrant," " Ignominious cheat," " No three men could be found 
on a jury to credit him on his oath," " dolt," " tool," " fool," 
"cipher," "Cyclops," "fly on a coach wheel," "disgrace to the 
country," &c. Still this is only an ebullition of, perhaps, quite 
transitory wrath ; and the next day their good " Old Zack" will 
be forgiven. 

We have made acquaintance with a very agreeable lady here, 

Mrs. S. M , of New York. She has charming unaffected 

manners, and appears to be very accomplished : she sings remark- 
ably well, and has a handsome Italian-looking face. Her husband 
and daughter in-law are here with her ; the latter, I believe, older 
than herself Her little grandson-in-law is a pretty, dark child, 
and his youthful grandmamma appears excessively attached to him. 

A friend of Mrs. M 's, a Miss G , of Boston, is one of the 

loveliest young American ladies I have yet seen : she is fair, and 

a little reminds me of our own beautiful Lady C. V , in the 

cast of her countenance and the line of feature. She looks par- 
ticularly pretty in the bathing hat, a large Swiss-looking straw 
hat which she sometimes wears also out walking. She appears to 
have the softest and sweetest manners imaginable ; and all she 
does and says seems characterized by extreme grace and gentleness. 



TRADE OF GLOUCESTER. 45 

There is no loud talking and constant gigfrling, of "which travelers 
have so often accused American young ladies, and which, I believe, 
"wherever it is to be found, is greatly o"wing to their being partly 
educated at large public schools, "which, perhaps, gives them a 
habit of pitching their voice high, in order to make themselves 
heard among numbers. I am happy to say I have not yet met "with 
any who have that unrefined disagreeable habit. 

The town of Gloucester, where wc are, has a population of about 
six thousand: its trade is entirely maritime. The harbor is reck- 
oned one of the finest on the whole coast of the Atlantic. The town 
contains seven churches and various public buildings ; the inhab- 
itants are mostly employed in the halibut, cod, and mackerel fish- 
eries ; and there arc about seventeen thousand tons of shipping here. 
Quite a little navy (chiefly from Newfoundland station) came in 
the other day to take shelter in the harbor from a gale at sea. If it 
is true that Newport is very foggy, which I am told it is, I think 
this must be a far preferable place of summer residence. Colonel 
Green and his lady called on me the other day. He is the accom- 
plished editor of an excellent Boston paper. 



CHAPTEPi, VIII 

Return to Boston — Fire Engines and their Horses — The Cradle of American 
Liberty — Faneuil Hall — ^Boston Prohibition of Street-smoking — Statue of 
Washington in the State House — Anecdote connected with it — A Drum 
preserved in the State House — Visit to Cambridge — Mount Auburn — 
Harvard University — Professors Pierce, Silliraan, Guyon, Sparks, and Agas- 
siz — Live Coral Insects preserved by Professor Agassiz — Reflections sug- 
gested by them — Museum of Professor Agassiz. 

The weather on this IGth of August, is very pleasant at Boston. 
I hear it lues been terribly oppressive, and we were fortunate to be 
at charming, breezy Cape Ann. 

I was surprised the other day at my nephew-in-law, E. W , 

suddenly making his appearance here. He is going to visit New- 
port iiistmiter, and then is ofi" to Canada. He introduced the other 

day a friend of his to me, Mr. C. S , a most agreeable and 

highly-informed person. 

The thunder-storms have been as rare in America as in En- 
gland this year : we had one however, the night before last. I 
hope it will do good, and clear away the cholera a little. 



46 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

We had a disagreeable little fright some time ago here, occasioned 

by the passage being on fire close to V 's room (it was owing to 

something wrong about the gas-pipes). It was early in the night 
fortunately, and as I thought most likely some of the numerous 
fire-engines would be within call, taking their usual constitutional 
walk or canter (in short, taking the air if there was no fire to take), 
I did not feel much trepidation. The fire was easily overcome, 
and thereafter I felt for some time more secure than usual, think- 
ing that for a fortnight or more people would be particularly care- 
ful hereabout concerning fire, in consequence of this little warning, 
and that I should hear those fidgety engines at exercise without 
much apprehension of their being called into requisition by us. 

By the way, there is a team of ghostly-looking white horses at- 
tached to one of these engines, that truly seem to have no repose. 
Like the restless phantoms of wicked horses, they haunt the streets 
at the witching hour of night, and seem to wander over the face 
of the granite city, without object or aim, as if disturbed in their 
graves by the proximity of so many railroads here, and feeling, like 
Othello, their "occupation gone" — at least that of their fellows. 

I saw the other day the place where the first blood was shed in 
the great Revolution — the righteous Revolution, if ever there was 
one deserving to be so called; yet my English feelings make me 
dislike always to dwell on the details of it. Faneuil Hall is the 
American cradle of liberty. Would the reader like a slight sketch 
of the cot where so sturdy and chopping an infant first began to 
crow and squall ? This, in America, universally-venerated struc- 
ture has stood for about one hundred and nine years, and was pre- 
sented to the city of Boston by Peter Faneuil, a respected mer- 
chant. Here the chiefs of the Revolution harangued the people 
in those troublous and perilous times, and here often some of the 
most distinguished orators of America pour forth the living fire of 
their eloquence. 

It is a large building, but not architecturally remarkable. The 
lower story is occupied by stores. The hall on the second story is 
seventy-six feet square and twenty-eight high, having galleries on 
three sides, supported by two ranges of Ionic columns. Portraits of 
Washington and Mr. Faneuil hang on the walls. Above this hall 
is one of about the same dimensions, devoted to military exercises. 

There is a regulation here that reminded me of Vienna. People 
are not permitted to smoke in the streets. (I know not whether 
this is still in force at Vienna, after the various changes there.) 
This they appear to submit very patiently and unmurmuringly to, 



WASHINGTON'S STATUE. 47 

albeit the Cradle of Liberty lifts its protecting walls so near 
them. 

The State House, on its noble site, with its handsome dome, is 
very striking ; its colonnade is fine. There is an excellent statue 
of Washington in the large hall : it is enveloped in folds of massive 
drapery, and so easily do the graceful robes hang, that it is related 
of a countrywoman coming one day to see it, that she exclaimed 
she could not judge of the statue till they " tuk that sorter sheet 
off of it." It was a more natural mistake than that of a purblind 
lady visiting at , who, on entering the hall, gazed with re- 
spectful admiration at the representation of an Egyptian mummy, 
and it was found afterward she had imagined it to be a former 
Bishop of Norwich in his full canonicals, and as such thought it a 
remarkable likeness, and a work of great excellence ! 

In the interior of the State House are the two chambers of the 
Legislature. The House of Representatives has accommodation 
for about four hundred persons, and the Senate-chamber is rather 
smaller. An ancient drum is to be seen there taken in one of the 
earHer revolutionary battles : did it hear the glorious words Mr. 
Webster once spoke, concerning its brother-drums of Britain? If 
it did, I marvel almost it did not burst out into an extemporaneous 
and self beating rub-a-dub in echo to those noble, generous, and 
spirit-stirring strains ; if a drum had a heart in its skin, it would 
surely have done so. " England, the beat of whose drum, keeping 
company with the hours," &c., — would that my memory could 
serve me to repeat some of this eloquent outburst — but, alas I I 
am far from sure that even these few words are correct. 

The first time we went to Cambridge we went to see our 
amiable friends Mrs. and Miss Everett. They are in the Presi- 
dent's house, and are to continue there for the present. After 
sitting a little while with Mrs. Everett, we went with Mr. and 
Miss Everett, in their carriage to Mount Auburn, the spacious 
and beautiful cemetery. The finely diversified grounds occupy 
about one hundred acres, in general profusely adorned with a rich 
variety of trees, and in some places planted with ornamental 
shrubbery : there are some tombs graced with charming flower- 
beds. There are also some pretty sheets of water there : it is 
divided into different avenues and paths, which have various 
names. Generally they are called after the trees or flowers that 
abound there, such as lily, poplar, cypress, violet, woodbine, and 
others. It is, indeed, a beauteous city for the dead. The birds 
were singing most raellifluously and merrily — it was quite a din 



48 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

of music that they kept up in these solemn, but lovely shades. 
The views from Mount Auburn are fine and extensive. There are 
some gi-aceful and vi'ell-executed monuments within its precincts. 

Afterward we went with Mr. Everett to see a little of the 
colleges, and then visited the mineralogical cabinet. Harvard 
University is the most ancient, and is reckoned the best endowed 
institution in the Union. It was founded in 1638, and from a 
donation made to it by the Rev. John Harvard it was called alter 
him. We paid a brief visit to the great telescope, merely to look 
at it, however, and not through it, for it was then dull, and very 
cloudy, with no prospect of its being otherwise during the evening 
— it is a refracting telescope. Mr. Bond himself was not there, 
but his son was, who is already a distinguished and enthusiastic 
astronomer. Mr. Bond, senior, was one of the discoverers of the 
eighth satellite of Saturn. 

Another time we went to the soiree, which Mr. and Mrs. 
Everett gave on the occasion of the meeting of the American 
Association of Science at Cambridge. 

There I saw, of course, many learned celebrities. Among 
them — Professor Pierce, Prolessor Silliman, Professor Guyon, 
Professor Sparks (the new President of Harvard University), and 
Professor Agassiz, the celebrated naturalist (I Jbund he was a 
cousin of my old governess. Mademoiselle Anne Agassiz). 

This very distinguished man — one of the great contributors to 
the world's stores of science and knowledge — is an extremely 
agreeable member of society, and a very popular one. His man- 
ners are particularly frank, pleasing, cordial, and simple ; and 
though deeply absorbed, and intensely interested in his laborious 
scientific researches, and a most thorough enthusiast in his study 
of natural philosophy, yet he rattled merrily away on many of the 
various light topics of the day with the utmost gayety, good- 
humor, and spirit. 

He has succeeded, after great trouble and persevering inde- 
fatigable care, in preserving alive some coral insects, the first that 
have ever been so preserved, and he kindly promised me an 
introduction to those distinguished architects. |We accordingly 
went, accompanied by Mr. Everett, the following day. M. 
Agassiz was up-stairs very much occupied by some scientific 
investigation of importance, and he could not come down, but he 
allowed us to enter the all but hallowed precincts devoted to the 
much-cherished coral insects. 

M. Agassiz had been away a little while previously, and left 



CORAL INSECTS. 49 



these treasures of his heart under the charge and superintendence 
of his assistant. This poor care-worn attendant, we were told, 
almost lost his own life in preserving the valuable existence of 
these little moving threads, so much did he feel the weighty re- 
sponsibility that devolved upon him, and with such intense anxiety 
did he watch the complexion, the contortions, all the twistings 
and twirlings, and twitchings, and flingings and writhings of the 
wondrous little creatures, and assiduously marking any indications 
of petite sante among them. They were kept in water carefully 
and frequently changed, and various precautions were indispensa- 
bly necessary to be taken in order to guard their exquisitely deli- 
cate demi-semi existences. 

Glad enough was the temporary gentleman-in-waiting, and 
squire-of-the-body to these interesting zoophytes to see M. Agassiz 
return, and to resign his charge into his hands. With him this 
exceeding care and watchfulness was indeed nothing but a labor 
of love, and probably no nurse or mother ever fondled a weakly 
infant with more devoted tenderness and anxious attention than 
M. Agassiz displayed toward his dearly-beloved coral insects. 

As to me, I hardly dared breathe while looking at them for fear 
I should blow their precious lives away, or some catastrophe 
should happen while we were there, and we should be suspected 
oi coraliclde ! However, the sight was most interesting. We 
watched them as they flung about what seemed their fire-like 
white arms, like microscopic opera dancers or windmills ; but 
these apparent arms are, I believe, all they possess of bodies. 
How wonderful to think of the mighty works that have been 
performed by the fellow-insects of these little restless laborers. 
What are the builders of the Pyramids to them ? What did the 
writers of the " Arabian Nights" imagine equal to their more 
magical achievements ? Will men ever keep coral insects by 
them to lay the foundations of a few islands and continents when 
the population grows too large for the earthy portion of earth % 
People keep silkworms to spin that beautiful fabric for them : and 
M. Agassiz has shown there is no impracticability. I looked at 
the large bowl containing the weird workers with unflagging 
interest, till I could almost fancy minute reefs of rock were rising 
up in the basin. 

What a world of marvels we live in, and alas that the splendid 
wonders of science should be shut out from so many myriads of 
mankind ; for that the marvelous is inahenably dear to human 
nature, witness all the fairy tales, ghost stories, and superstitious 



50 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



of all lands that have abounded and been popular from a^e to 
age Penny JMagazines and such works have done much" but 
much there remains to be done to bring the subjects not only 
witlun reach but to make them more universally popular and 
attractive, and less technical. 

At last Ave took leave of those marine curiosities, and wended 
our way back, sorry not to have seen M. Agassiz (who was '^till 
absorbed m dissecting or pickling for immortality some extraordi- 
nary hsh that he had discovered), but delighted" to have had the 
opportunity of seeing his ■proteges. 
;'M. Agassiz ought indeed to have an extensive museum" 

e ~1~ " a^ ^ ^''^"'"''^ ''^'^^■>' ^°^y "^ t'l"^ States makes a poiiit 
ot sending oft to him, post haste, every imajvinable reptile and 
monster, and nondescript that they haj.pen to find." I should 
assuredly not like to have the opening of his letters and parcels if 
that is the case. ^ 



CHAPTER IX. 

^'•pn"?''~'^v° .^''S'-i'" Fathers-Mrs. AVarren. a Descendant of one of the 
P.lgnnis-A isit Irom Islr. Prescott the Historian-Graves of the Pil.rrim 
^ athers-\ is.ts horn Daniel Webster and from Mr. N. P. AVillis-SanToset 
Count, ''"' ^^"•-^'-^"'^'=>' "^ '1^"^ I^^Snni Fathers-Altered Face of their 

We have come to famous Old Plymouth, to see the interesting 
spot where the first Pilgrim Fathers landed. We paid a visit to the 
rock which It IS said their feet first touched : it has been conveyed 
to the centre ot the village. Here tliev landed after their perilous 
voyage in the " Mayflower," on the" 22d of December, 16-^0 
llyiuouth boasts of being the first town built bv civilized bein<rs' 
in ?s ew Lngland. The inhabitants celebrate the interestino- anni- 
versary ot the lauding every year. ° 

We visited one of the lineal descendants of the pilgrims soon 
after our arrival here. INIrs. Warren is the mother of Jud-e 
Uarren (with whom we went) ; she is a most charmin-, deli.rht- 
lul old lady, Avith the most gentle, amiable, and polished manners 
imagmable; her house was as delightful as herself! and wa* I 
believe, certainly one of the original houses built by the Pilrvrini 
b athers. Mrs. ^^ arrcn seated me on a precious old-fashioned chair 



MESSRS. PRESCOTT AND WEBSTER. 51 



that actually had come over in the " Mayflower." I fancy there 
are psoudo-Mayflower chairs enough in various parts of Massa- 
chusetts to set up a score of upholsterers in business ; but this, 
there is no doubt, really came over with the venerable voyagers,' 
as It belonged to the descendant of one of the earliest governors.' 
There Avere a number of old family pictures in the room, some of 
them by Copley, father of our greatly-distinguished Lord Lynd- 
hurst (who was born, I think, in Boston). 

I had the great pleasure of a visit from Mr. Prescott before I 
left Boston ; he came irom Nahant to see me with his daughter. 
I was delighted to have an opportunity of making acquaintance 
with this justly celebrated historian, whose works I had read with 
such lively interest. Even by the side of his handsome (and, by 
the way, very English-looking) daughter, he still looks quite a 
young ma,n, and he seems to have a flow of spirits equal to those 
ol Lord Stanley : there is not a particle of pomposity about him, 
and his style of conversation is of the most fresh, original, agreeable^ 
and striking kind ; and with all his stores of learning, and varied 
knowledge, there is the most complete absence possible of any thin"- 
approaching to pedantry. His eyesight is, unfortunately, defective, 
but no one would observe this in society. 

He appeared rather absent. A short time after he had taken 
leave and left the room with his daughter, we heard a knock at 
the door ; on saying, " come in," Mr. Prescott appeared again, and 
said he had left his cane there. He looked, and we looked, chairs 
M-ere inspected, sofas pushed about, and tables trotted out from 
their places, when presently I heard a subdued exclamation from 
Mr. Prescott, Avho had found the cane — in his hand, where I cer- 
tainly did not think of looking for it. He laughed good-humoredly 
at his forgetfulness, and he and his cane vanished presently together. 
We have visited the church-yard here, which contains some 
mteresting graves of the old Pilgrims. Altogether, there is much 
to attract and to please in Plymouth, and I am very glad I came 
here. 

I have just seen that great man, Mr. Webster, and also Mrs. 
Webster who, I find, are now staying in this hotel. He is a friend 
of my lather's ; but as I was abroad when he was at Belvoir 
Castle, I had never before seen him. I was, as every body must 
be, I should think, very much struck by his magnificent counte- 
nance — that prodigiously massive brow, those mighty eyes, that 
seem as if they were calmly looking down the depths of ages, and 
tliat grand air of rejme (which especially appeared to me to char- 



TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



acterize his aspect) have a sort of quiet mountainous grandeur 
about them that makes one thiuk, that old Homer, had he not 
been bhnd, might so have looked, or the awful son of Ccelus and 
Terra I His features have more, I think, of the Oriental than 
the Occidental cast ; but then you seldom see so much intellect in 
an Eastern countenance. It is, indeed, a very un-American face, 
for their features are ordinarily rather sharp and delicate. 

Mr. and Mrs. Webster have kindly asked me to go to Green 
Harbor ; the invitation was most cordial and friendly. " Come, 
pray, and remain there as long as you can — we shall do all we 
can to make your stay agreeable," &c. I look forward very much 
to going and seeing this great man in his own house. I hear he 
occupies himself much with farming and various country pursuits. 

I am afraid there will be no change in American policy with 
regard to protection. The South are for free trade, and if they 
can carry the day they will have it. 

I have just had a very agreeable visit from Mr. N. P. Willis. 

V was highly delighted to see this well known and popular 

American author, of whom she had often heard. I hope to see 
Mrs. Willis to-raorrov/ ; she is the niece and adopted daughter of 
Mr. Grinnell, brother to the Mr. Grinnell to whom I have letters 
from Mr. C . 

There are six churches in this small town, and two academies. 
The hotel is called Samoset House, after the friendly Indian chief 
whom the settlers found here in the olden time. It sounds so like 
Somerset that I begin to think my cousin the Duke of Beaufort 
must claim some very distant relationship with this old chieftain 
of Massachusetts, and we, of course, too I I remember finding 
something like traces of the De Rooses in Africa : so at this rate, 
it seems, I shall establish very amicable relations of my own be- 
tween far-apart and widely extended countries. I believe there is 
some curious tradition of this identical old Samoset accosting the 
newly-arrived pilgrims with some words of broken English ; but I 
do not exactly recollect the story. 

What energy and determination those old Pilgrim Fathers showed, 
and the poor Pilgrim mothers too (who, as some one justly ob- 
served the other day, seemed usually consigned to an unmerited 
oblivion). What hardships and heart-quakings must they not have 
gone through when all this now cheerful and cultivated and in- 
habited country, with its profusion of towns and villages, and its 
multiplicity of railways, was one huge Avild-waving pine forest I 
Fancy their surprise if they could look upon it now ; and the iron 



VISIT TO MR. WEBSTER. 53 

trains, and the electric telegraphs, and their dandy, French-cos- 
tumed, mustached sons, and their polka-dancing daughters ; what 
would great-grandmamma think of that ? Mrs. Hemans's lovely 
lines on the Landing of the Pilgrim Fathers, and the beautiful music 
poor Mrs. Arkwright wedded to them, have often lately recurred 
to my memory I 



CHAFTEPv, X. 

Green Harbor, the seat of Daniel Webster — His Guests — Description of his 
Mansion — The Militia General — Enterprise of American Lady-travelers — 

An instance — Mrs. C from China — Great intellectual Powers of Mr. 

Webstei" — A Storm — " My Kingdom for a Pin" — Anecdote of Lady 

— The sole American with an aristocratic Title — Extraordinary Popularity 
of Mr. Webster in New England — Anecdote of Mr. Webster — That States- 
man and Mr. Clay never Presidents of the United States — A Cause assigned 
— Appointment of illiterate political Postmasters — Mode of Living at Green 
Harbor. 

We have been much charmed with our visit to Green Harbor, 
Marshfield, the beautiful domain of Mr. Webster. It is a charm- 
ing and particularly enjoyable place, almost close to the sea. The 
beach here is something marvelous, eight miles in breadth, and of 
splendid hard floor-like sand, and when this is covered by the roll- 
ing Atlantic, the waves all but come up to the neighboring green, 
grassy fields. Very high tides cover them. 

There is a very agreeable party in the house, including Mr. and 
Miss Everett, &c., and in addition to the guests here, those stay- 
ing at Mr. F. Webster's (Mr. Webster's son) generally assemble 

here in the evening ; among them was Miss S . She was an 

exceedingly pleasant and agreeable young lady, full of life, spirits, 
information, and good-humor, joined to mild and amiable manners. 
Miss F was another very pleasing specimen of an accom- 
plished American young lady. 

This house is very prettily fitted up. It strikes me as being 
partly in the English and partly in the French style, exceedingly 
comfortable, and with a number of remarkably pretty draM'iiig- 
rooms opening into one another, which always is a judicious ar- 
rangement I think ; it makes a party agreeable and unformal. 
There are a variety of pictures and busts by American artists, and 
some of them are exceedingly good. There is a picture in the 



54 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

chief drawing room of Mr. Webster's gallant son who was killed 
in the Mexican war. The two greatest of America's statesmen 
each lost a son in that war, Mr. Clay and Mr. Webster. There 
is also a fine picture of Mr. Webster himself, M'hich, however, 
though a masterly painting, does not do justice to the distinguished 
original. It was executed some years ago ; but I really think it 
is not so handsome as the great statesman is now, with his Olym- 
pus-like brow, on which are throned such divinities of thought, and 
with that wonderful countenance of might and majesty. 

The dining-room here is a charming apartment with all its M'in- 
dows opening to the ground, looking on the garden ; and it is 
deliciously cool, protected from the sun by the overshadowing 
masses of foliage of the most magnificent weeping (American) 
elms. These colossal trees stand just before the house, and are 
pre-eminently beautiful : they seem to unite in their own gigantic 
persons the exquisite and exceeding grace of the weeping willow, 
with the strength and grandeur of the towering elm. I Avas told 
a curious fact last night. Every where, through the length aud 
breadth of the States, the sycamore trees this year are blighted 
and dying. 

The walls of the dining-room are adorned chiefly with English 
engravings, among which there is one of my iiither. JNIy bed- 
room is profusely decorated with prints of dillerent English country 
houses and castles. The utmost good taste and refinement are 
perceptible in the arrangements of the house, and a most enchant- 
ing place of residence it is. All the domestics of the house are 
colored persons, which is very seldom indeed the case in this part 
of the United States. Mr. Webster tells me he considers them 
the best possible servants, much attached, contented and grateful, 
and he added, he Avould " fearlessly trust them Nvith untold gold." 
They certainly must be good ones to judge by the exquisite neat- 
ness and order of every thing in the establishment. 

Mr. Webster's farm here consists of one thousand five hundred 
acres : he has a hundred head of cattle. 

Mr. F. Webster has been a good deal in India, and he was men- 
tioning the other evening that he was struck, in several of the 
English schools in that country, by the tone of some political lessons 
that were taught there. For instance, with regard to freedom 
and representation of the people, &c. ; the natives were forcibly 
remiiuled of their own unrepresented state, by questions bearing 
on the subject — the United States being instanced as an example 
of almost universal sufirage ; Great Britain itself of a less extensive 



AMERICAN LADY-TRAVELERS. 55 

elective franchise ; France, of wliatcvcr France was then ; and 
Hindostan a^i^cclaUy pointed out as having nothing of the kind, as 
if they really wished to make the poor Hindoos discontented with 
their present state. To be sure, they might as well go to Persia 
and Turkey for their examples. Mr. F. Webster seemed to think 
the Hindoos were beginning a little to turn their thoughts to such 
political subjects. 

While we were at dinner a day or two ago, a new guest, who 
had arrived rather late from New York, walked in, being announ- 
ced as a general. He was a very military looking man indeed with 
a formidable pair of mustaches. Some turn in the conversation 

reminding me of the Mexican war, I asked if General had 

served in Mexico. Mr. laughed, and told lae he was in the 

militia, and had never smelt powder in his life. 

What enterprising travelers American ladies sometimes are I 
My Atlantic-crossing performances seem very little in comparison 
with some of their expeditions. It would not surprise me that any 
who have ever gone to settle in the I'ar-off portions oi' the country, 
and been doomed to undergo such rugged experiences as those de- 
scribed in the American work (by a lady) called " A new Home, 
Who '11 Follow ?" should laugh at hardships and discomforts which 
might reasonably perhaps deter less seasoned and experienced trav- 
elers ; but it must be a very difierent case with those habituated 
only to refinements and luxuries. Mr. Webster had told me he 
had expected for some little time past the arrival of a lady, a rela- 
tive of his, who had lately left China for the United States ; she 
was to leave her husband in the Celestial flowery land, her inten- 
tion being, I believe, to see her relatives and friends at home, and 
then to rejoin him in the course of some months in China. 

Like the gallant chieftain spoken of before, she arrived late, and 

during dinner the doors were thown open and " Mrs. P , from 

China," was announced. She came in, and met her relatives and 
friends, as quietly as if she had merely made a " petite promenade 
de quinze jours" (as the French boasted they should do when they 
went to besiege Antwerp). She seated herself at table, when a 
few questions were asked relative to her voyage. 

" Had you a good passage ]" 

" Very — altogether." 
, " How long ?" 

"About one hundred and three days" (I think this is correct, 
but I can not answer to a day). 

" Pleasant companions ?" 



5G TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

" Very much so, and with books the time passed very agree- 
ably." 

All this was as quietly discussed as if the passage had been 
from Dover to Boulogne, and the length of the time of absence a 
fortnight. 

American ladies, perhaps, on the whole, do not travel about as 
much as we do, but when they do set about it, the uttermost ends of 
the earth seem scarcely to alarm them. The fact is, I think, that 
foreign travel to American ladies is rather a diiierent thing to what 
it is with us. Living so close, comparatively speaking, to all the 
most interesting places in the world — Italy, with its countless 
associations and glories of art — Switzerland, with its crown of 
mountains and enchanting scenery, and other classic lands — we 
can so easily and so quickly indulge ourselves with these glorious 
and interesting spectacles ; but if our transatlantic sister wishes to 
gaze on the time-honored monuments and transcendent works of 
art of Old Imperial Rome, or the magical enchantments of Naples, 
or the Arabian-Night-like glories of the Alhambra and Gz-anada ; 
or to speed to that Mecca of the Americans — Paris ; there rolls 
the broad Atlantic, and she must prepare for the fatigues of a 
regular sea voyage before she can hope to accomplish it. Thus 
their ideas of foreign travel are necessarily more comprehensive, and, 
perhaps more expansive than ours. Without doubt, after crossing 
the Atlantic the Pacific becomes less formidable ; but I need not 
talk of foreign travel, when part of their own America — California 
— is at such a mighty distance from them. 

" Mrs. P , from China," I found to be a delightful person, 

and I was excessively interested in many things she told me dur- 
ing a long conversation we had in the evening. Some of her ac- 
counts of Chinese proceedings amused me greatly. Together with 
other things, she told me that at Canton, among the crowded 
population who live in boats, it was a regular custom, as soon as a 
boy could crawl about on his hands and knees, to fasten carefully 
around his head a sort of life-preserving apparatus, in case little 
Master Chinaman should, when occasionally left to his own inven- 
tions, pop overboard, and the brother of the sun and moon lose a 
valuable subject. But no such tender precautions are ever taken 
with regard to the poor little Celestial misses. Their brows and 
waists are left unbound by the guardian bladder, and if they be- 
come a morsel for the fishes, so much the better ibr the finny bon- 
t'ivant, and also for the aflectionate parental wo?i-barbarians I It 
is not unlikely, if this is the case, that these poor little supernu- 



DRIVE WITH MR. WEBSTER. 57 

meraries are sometimes assisted by a sly push in their aquatic ex- 
cursions. 

Mr. Webster was good enough to drive me out yesterday, and 
a most splendid drive we had. At one part, from a rather high 
eminence, we had a glorious panoramic view : it was I'eally sublime : 
ocean, forest, hill, valley, promontory, river, field, glade, and hollow, 
were spread before us ; altogether they formed a truly magnificent 
prospect. One almost seemed to be looking into boundless space. 
We paused at this spot a little while to admire the beautiftil scene. 
How meet a companion the giant Atlantic seemed for that mighty 
mind, to some of whose noble sentiments 1 had just been listening 
with delight and veneration, and yet how far beyond the widest 
sweep of ocean, is the endless expanse of the immortal intellect — 
time-overcoming — creation-compelling I 

However, while I was thus up in the clouds, they (condescend- 
ingly determining, I suppose, to return my call) suddenly came 
down upon us, and unmercifully. St. Swithin I what a rain it 
was I The Atlantic is a beautiful object to look at, but when 
either he, or some cousin-german above, takes it into his head to 
act the part of shower-bath extraordinary to you, it is not so pleas- 
ant. My thoughts immediately fled away from ocean (except the 
descending one), forest, hill, dale, and all the circumjacent scenery, 
to centre ignominiously on my bonnet, to say nothing of the tip of 
my nose, which was drenched and drowned completely in a half" 
second. My vail — humble defense against the I'ury of the ele- 
ments I — accommodated its dripping self to the features of my face 
like the black mask of some desperate burglar, driven against it, 
also, by the wind, that blew a " few," I can assure the reader. 

How Mr. Webster contrived to drive, I know not, but drive he 
did, at a good pace too, for " after us," indeed, was " the deluge ;" 
I could scarcely see him ; a wall of water separated us, but ever 
and anon I heard faintly, through the hissing and splashing and 
lashinij and pattering of the big rain, his deep, sonorous voice, rec- 
ommending me to keep my cloak well about me, which no m.ortal 
cloak of any spirit will ever allow you to do at such needful mo- 
ments — not it ! " My kingdom for a pin." 

I recollect Lady , telling me how her life had once hung on 

a pin. Thus it was ; she was driving herself one day across a 
bleak, broad moor in Yorkshire, and it began rather suddenly to 
rain, and blow tremendously. Excepting a cloak, she was very 
lightly clothed, and this said cloak blew open, flew back, and made 
itself as odious as possible, and left her chilled by the wind, and 



58 TRAVELS IN AMEPaCA. 

> 

drenched by the rain. She was delicate, and extremely afraid of 
cold, and was shivering irom head to foot : at last a friendly pin 
Avas found, and behold — perhaps her lungs and her life were thus 
saved I 

When we arrived at Green Harbor, we found Mrs. Webster 
very anxious for the poor rain-beaten wayfarers. She took every 
kind care of me, and except a very slight soupfori of a cold, the 
next morning, I did not sufler any inconvenience. Mr. Webster 
had complained of not being very Avell before (I think a slight at- 
tack of hay-asthma), but I was glad to meet him soon afterward 
at dinner, not at all the worse for the tempestuous drive ; and for 
my part, I could most cordially thank him for the glorious pano- 
rama he had shown me, and the splendid drive through what seemed 
ahirost interminable woods : and (since we had got safely through 
it), I was not sorry to have witnessed the very excellent imitation 
oi tlie Flood which had been presented before (and some of it into) 
my astonished eyes. Mr. Webster told me the drive through the 
woods would have been extended, but for the rain, ten miles ! 

He took me the other day to a room I had not before visited, 
and showed me a beautiful picture of a lovely and only daughter, 
whom he had the great misfortune to lose last year. 
. I am about to leave this delightful place, for I have an engage- 
ment to go and dine at Nahant to-morrow, with Mr. and Mrs. 
Prescott. The latter I have not yet had the pleasure of meeting. 
I believe she has very delicate health. 

I made acquaintance at Plymouth with a charming Mrs. 
Thayer : her lather is said to be the only American who possesses 
and is universally known by an aristocratic title : he is the lineal 
descendant of an ancient Dutch family. I believe the title is 
"The Patroon." 

I can not describe to you the almost adoration with which Mr. 
Webster is regarded in New England. The newspapers chronicle 
his every moveinent, and constantly contain anecdotes respecting 
him, and he invariably is treated with the greatest respect by every 
body, and, in flict, his intellectual greatness seems all but worshiped. 
I\Iassachusetts boasts, with a commendable pride and exultation, 
that he is one of her children. A rather curious anecdote has been 
going the round of the papers lately. It appears ]Mr. Webster 
was at Martha's Vineyard a short time ago, and he drove up to 
the door of the principal hotel, at Edgartown, the capital, ac- 
companied by some of his I'amily, and attended, as usual, by his 
colored servants. Now it must be observed that Mr. Webster has 



ANECDOTE OF MR. WEBSTER. 59 

a swarthy, almost South-Spanish complexion, and when he put his 
head out of the window, and inquired lor apartments, the keeper 
of the hotel, casting dismayed glances, first at the domestics of dif- 
ferent shades of sable and mahogany, and then at the fine dark 
face of Mr. Webster, excused himself from providing them with 
accommodation, declaring he made it a rule never to receive any 
colored j^cnons. (This in New England I if the tale be true.) 
The great statesman and his family were about to seek for accom- 
modation elsewhere — thinking the hotel-keeper alluded to his ser- 
vants — when the magical name of " glorious Dan" becoming 
known, mine host, penitent and abashed, after profuse apologies, 
entreated him to honor his house with his presence. " All's well 
that ends well." 

One can not wonder at the Americans' extreme admiration of 
the genius and the statesman-like qualities of their distinguished 
countryman, his glorious and electrifying eloquence, his great 
powers of ratiocination, his solid judgment, his stores of knowledge, 
and his large and comprehensive mind — a mind of that real ex- 
pansion and breadth which, heaven knows, too few public men can 
boast of But what does excite wonder is, the singular fact, that 
neither he nor that other idol of the western world, Mr. Clay, 
should ever have been chosen to fill the highest office in the 
United States. 

It has been explained to roe thus : the greatest and most dis- 
tinguished statesmen in America are so thoroughly identified with 
some particular party, that naturally all the men of other parties 
(and party-spirit appears to run very high in America) are vio- 
lently opposed to them. A comparatively unknown politician, 
therefore, M'ho has made himself popular in some other sphere — as 
the present President, for instance* — has a better chance to occupy 
the Presidential chair than the best and most renowned of their 
statesmen. In short, as regards the politics of their chief magis- 
trate, they appear universally to preler what is called in sporting- 
circles in England, a "dark horse." Whether this peculiaritj' in 
the working of their constitutional polity be for good or lor evil, 
where the chief magistrate for the time being has so vast an 
amount of power and patronage, I leave those more conversant 
with such subjects to decide. 

Speaking of patronage, it may be well to allude to the army of 
postmasters whom every successive President has the privilege (of 

* I need hardly point out to the reader that President Taylor died since 
those remarks were written. 



CO TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



•which it is said he uniformly avails himself) of turning out on his 
election. In the newly- appointed legions of this class of adminis- 
trators, it is not experience, I am told, or fitness in any way for 
the post, that is considered, but the direction their votes have 
taken ; and I have been assured that sometimes persons are ap- 
pointed — certainly extraordinarily illiterate for America — who can 
not read, and others who can not epell. 

In one of the public prints I saw the other day an attack on a 
recently appointed postmaster to Indianapolis, the capital of Indi- 
ana. This functionary wrote from his then abode to some one at 
the place of his future labors, and spelt the name of the town thus : 
"Indian Apolis." Deponent sayeth not whether he added the 
name of the State as Indian Anna. 

The mode of living at Green Harbor is exceedingly agreeable, 
quiet, and unostentatious, yet all is conducted with the most un- 
bounded hospitality. Every one is judiciously allowed to follow 
their owai tastes and inclinations, and read, walk, drive, write, or 
whatever else they may like, without any formality or interference. 



CHAPTEPv XL 

Visit to Mr. and Mr.s. Prescott at Nahant— Paucity of Trees there— A mag- 
nificent Watcr-Melon — Beauty of Boston Harbor — Poetical additional 
Names given to American Cities — New Bedford— Its Population and Trade 
— Delicate Politeness of a Descendant of William Penn — Martha's Vine- 
yard—The Hostess, her Son and Daughter — Woodsville — Naushon — Its 
Loveliness — The One Grave — Reflections suggested by it — An ancient 
Place of Indian Sepulture — Verses suggested by Naushon. 

To-day we went and dined early with Mr. and Mrs. Prescott 
at Nahant, where they are staying for the summer. They have a 
charming country villa on the beautiful peninsula of Nahant. The 
town of Nahant is a very pleasant watering-place, about twelve 
miles from Boston by Avater, and sixteen by land. Near Mr. Pres- 
cott's house is a magnificent-looking hotel with numerous piazzas : 
the sea-coast view from his villa is boundless, and the perpetually 
high and dashing waves fling their fantastic foam, without ceasing, 
against the wild jagged rocks, which abound in every direction. 

We started by railroad to go there, and very near us in the car 
•was a respectable looking negro. Mr. C. S , who was in the 



BEAUTY OF BOSTON HARBOR. 61 

same car with us (also going to dine at Mr. Prescott's), pointed 
this man. out to me, at the same time saying, that this could not 
by possibility have happened two years ago in this State, so strong 
then were the prejudices against any approach to, or apj)earance 
of amalgamation with the black race. No one could certainly ap- 
pear more humble and quiet, less pre.suming or forward in his new 
position, than did this colored individual. 

On our way to Mr. Prescott's, we stopped to pay a visit to Mrs. 
Page, the sister of Mrs. F. Webster. She has a very pretty little 
country house at Nahant : she made many inquiries, with much 
kind feeling, after those friends whom she remembers at Belvoir 
Castle, where she was staying with Mr. and Mrs. Webster. 

I have already mentioned that Mr. Prescott is one of the most 
agreeable people I ever met with — as delightful as his own most 
delightful books : he talks of going to Europe next year. He tells 
me he has never visited either Mexico or Peru. I am surprised 
that the interest he must have felt in his own matchless works did 
not impel him to go to both. Mrs. Prescott is very delicate, with 
most gentle and pleasing manners. One of the guests was a niece 
of Lord Lyndhurst, her mother being Lord Lyndhurst's sister. 

After a most interesting and agreeable visit, we returned by 
water to Boston. The sea was blue as a plain of sparkling sap- 
phire — quite Mediterraneanic I Naliant is certainly a delightful 
place of summer residence, though it wants shade : trees in general 
most positively refuse to grow there, and there are but a few, 
which are taken as much care of as if they were the most precious 
exotics ; but Nahant and they do not agree. They have quite a 
pouting sulky look ; and it is almost as sad to look at them as it is 
to see the girdled trees, which look like skeletons of malefactors 
bleaching in the wind. At dessert, at Mr. Prescott's, there was 
a huge magnificent water-melon, that almost might have taken 
the place of the Cochituate Pond, and supplied Boston with the 
crystal element for a day. 

In returning through the harbor of Boston from Nahant, we 
were full of admiration of its scenery : the many lovely islands 
with which it is beautifully studded, and the superb view of Bo-s- 
ton itself, so nobly surmounted by its crown-like State House, en- 
chanted us. 

Since I wrote this, we have had a very agreeable little tour. 

We have received, through Mrs. W , a kind invitation from 

Mr. and Mrs. J. Grinnell to visit them at New Bedford. That 
■'f^wn is called "the City of Palaces." from the b^'i- "-^ ' ^ ••■idin.^rs 



TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



it contains : it is also the great whaling metropolis of the North. 
It is about fit't)'-six miles from hence. 

The Americans give their cities most poetical and significant 
designations, and sometimes one town will have a variety of these. 
For instance, this, I believe, is not only called the Granite City, 
but the Triinountain City. Philadelphia is the city of Brotherly 
Love, or the Iron City. Biitialo, the Queen City of the Lakes ; 
New Haven, the City of Elms, cVc. I think the American imag- 
ination is more ilorid tlian ours. I am afraid matter-of-lact John 
Bull, if he attempted such a fanciful classification would make sad 
work of it. Perhaps we should have Birmingliam, the City of 
Buttons or Warming-pans ; Nottingham, the City of Stockings ; 
Shetlleld, the City of Knives and Forks, and so l"orth. 

Mr. and ^Irs. Willis, and Air. Willis's musical brother, were at 
Mr. and Mrs. J. Grinnell's beautit'ul mansion. We paid a visit to 
an immense whale-ship that is in the course of busy preparation for 
her voyage — to the South Seas, I believe. The whale-fishery is 
very extensively carried on at New Bedford. The population is 
about fifteen thousand, almost all engaged directly or indirectly in 
this trade. There ai*e about two hundred and twenty-nine vessels 
engaged in the fishery, which is said to be continually increasing. 

Tlie system on which they conduct their whaling operations, 
seems to be a very judicious one. Every one of the crew has a 
share in the profits or losses of the expedition ; it becomes, there- 
fore, his interest to do all he possibly can to render the voyage a 
prosperous one. All are eager, all on the look-out, all are quite 
sure to exert their energies to the utmost, and perhaps this is one 
secret of the success that attends the American whaling-ships. 

Mrs. Grinnell had a little co/ivcr$(iz/o//c the other evening, and 
among the visitors was a beautiful young (.Quaker laily, a descend- 
ant of William Penn. She was an extremely pleasing person 
and her conversation was very animated and interesting. Imag- 
ining that perhaps I had never been in the society of Quakers be- 
fore, she cleverly contrived to converse in the most pleasant and 
delightful manner, without once bringing in either "thee" or 
" thou.'' or " you" though she was talking to me almost all the 
evening. 

I remarked this omission, and was afterward certain of it when 
I\Irs. Willis told me the lady informed her of the lact before go- 
ing away, and gave her that reason for her delicate, scrupulous 
abstinence. She Avould not say " i/ou,'' in short ; and " thee ' and 
" thou" she thouglit would appear strange to me. I was told her 



MARTHA'S VINEYARD. 63 

family are in possession of a splendid silver tea-service which he- 
longed to their celebrated ancestor, William Penn. 

We vv^ent from New Bedford to Martha's Vineyard, an island 
in the Atlantic not far from New Bedford. There we staid a few 
days at an unpretending neat hotel, of small dimensions — not the 
chief hotel, where the mistress, we found, was unaccommodating 
and disobliging — a very rare thing in America. On taking- 
refuge at the other hotel, we found we had reason to congratulate 
ourselves, for a more kind-hearted, attentive person I never found 
than our new hostess. She, poor soul, was in affliction at the 
time ; for her son was about to go off to California — indeed his 
departure took place for that distant region the morning after our 
arrival. 

What misery has this Californian emigration brought on thou- 
sands of families — unknown, incalculable wretchedness I There 
was, as may be supposed, a melancholy chorus of Availing and 
sobs when the dreaded moment actually arrived ; but her domes- 
tic sorrows did not make the excellent mother of the family neg- 
lect her guests. Nothing was omitted that could conduce to our 
comfort ; and her daughter's attention and her own were unremit- 
ting. 

Her daughter was a smart intelligent lassie. One day, when 
she was in the room, the mother hurried in to ask some question 
relative to dinner, or something of the kind. She had previously 
been baking, and her hands, and arms too, I believe, were white 
with flour. This very much annoyed her neat, particular, and 
precise daughter, who kept dusting her daintily, and trying to 
wipe it oft', and drawing her mother's attention to it with great 
pertinacity. At last the mother said she hadn't had time to get 
rid of it — hoped the lady would excuse it, with other apologies, 
and the daughter was a little pacified. One should hardly have 
expected so much susceptibility in such matters in a little out-of- 
the-way town on an island like Martha's Vineyard. 

When we came away I ielt it was quite a friend I was taking 
leave of, though we had been there so short a time, so good and 
kind did we find her. On the table in her little parlor, instead of 
the horrid novels so commonly to be seen in America, were the 
"Penny Magazine," and other works of that species. 

From Martha's Vineyard we went to Woodsville, a quiet little 
village by the sea. I had promised to pay a visit to Mrs. J. Grin- 
nell, at the residence of a friend of hers, situated on an island very 
near this place (to which Mr. and Mrs. J. Grinnell had lately gone 



C4 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

from New Bedford). We were at a very nice little hotel, indeed, 
at Woodsville, the master of which was a Mr. Webster, who had 
called one of his sous Daniel, after the famous statesman, the 
pride of old Massachusetts. 

At this hotel there was an admirable specimen of an American 
female waiter and house-maid ; in short, a domestic factotum. 
She Avas excessively civil, obliging, active, and attentive, not iu 
the slightest degree forward or intrusive, always willing to do 
whatever cue required of her. Altogether a very prepossessing 
personage is IMademoiselle Caroline — not the lamous I'emale 
equestrian of Paris, but the excellent and accomplished waitress 
and chambermaid at Woodsville, whom I beg to introduce to the 
reader, and to immortality. The mistress of the hotel cooked for 
us herself, and she was quite a cordon-Ucu, I assure you. Her 
chicken pies and her puddings Avere of the sublimest description. 

The morniug was lovely, the sea sparkling with a myriad lus- 
tres, the air of Ausonian clearness and purity, when we went to 
Naushon, an exquisite little island (one of a cluster of the islands 
called the Elizabeth Group). We started in a small boat 
manned by the two sons of our host, and before very long we 
entered a little creek, antl soon landed on the beautit'ul shore of 
fairy-like Naushon. (This is of course its old Indian name, and 
long may it retain it). 

We lound Mr. Grinuell kindly waiting to receive us and drive 
ns to the island palace of the jjroprietor of Naushon, for to jMr. 

S , the whole beauteous island belongs. — "N^'^hat an enviable 

possession I Though not given to pilfering propensities, I should 

like to pick Mr. S 's pocket of this gem I We started in 

a somewhat sledge-like vehicle, a la Jlcchc (as our old Belgian 
courier IMarcotte used to say), for the house, and soon found our- 
selves seated in a large cool apartment with IMrs. Grinuell, and 
the kindly cordial Lord and Lady of the Isle, whose welcome had 
much of unworldly heartiness about it. I longed to explore the 
beautiful ishxnd, and Avhen I did so, my anticipations were not 
disappointed. 

Naushon is a little America in itself There are miniatures of 
her wild, illimitable, awful old forests — a beautiful little diamond 
edition of her Avonderful lakes, a fairy representation of her variety 
of scenery, a page torn from her ancient Indian associations and 
remains. There too are her customs, her manners, her spirit, and 
character ; in short, it is a little pocket America (and enough to 
make the chief superintendent of any police himself a pick-pocket), 



THE SINGLE GRAVE. 65 

a Liliputiaa Western World, a compressed Columbia. But its 
trees are not Liliputian, they are magnificent. 

We drove under a varied shade for a long time, and saw lovely 
views through openings in the Avoods. At last after tearing and 
crackling along through a thick growth of timber and underwood, 
we emerged upon a truly magnificent prospect. We were' on a 
height, and on either side were lovely woods, valleys, and gentle 
eminences ; and in front the glorious Atlantic. After enjoying 
this beauteous view for some time, the Lord of Naushon took us 
to see a still, secluded part of the ibrest, Avhere in the midst of a 
sunny clearing, surrounded by partly overshadowing trees in the 
heart of that sequestered island, embosomed in the mighty ocean, 
was a single grave, that of the only and adored son of our amiable 
hosts ; indeed, their only child. Almost close to this simple grave 

was a semi-circular seat. " There often," said Mr. S , " we 

come in the summer time and spend the evening, and frequently 
bring our friends, too, with us, and it is a melancholy happiness to 
feel he is near — almost, as it were, with us." 

Here we all remained for some time : the birds were singing, 
the sea so calm you could scarcely just then at that distance hear 
its everlasting resounding voice. You might look through the 
opening in the woods, up and up, and the clear cloudless sky 
would seem almost receding from your gaze (like the horizon 
when you are advancing toward it), yet bluer and bluer, brighter 
and brighter. All was beauty and enchantment ! and there lay 
the lonely dead — who could dare to say in unconsecrated ground 1 
where Nature was so wild and beautiful, and Nature's Creator 
seemed so nigh — and where that grand untrodden ground with 
nothing to desecrate it, was ever bathed by the tears of hallowed 
parental affection ? IIow blessed and sacred it appeared I To 
think, in contrast with this grave, of our dead in crowded city 
church-yards I But I trust that unutterably detestable system 
M'ill soon be done away with. 

If \vhat 1 have related seems strange to you, you must recollect 
that in America it is often the case ; at least, I have frequently 
heard so before I came here. In the quiet garden, or in the wood 
near the house, often sleep in their last slumber the beloved mem- 
bers of the family, not banished from the every-day associations 
of the survivors, and almost seeming to have still some participa- 
tion in their feelings, in their M'oes, and their pleasures. I could 
almost fancy, after seeing that Eden for the dead. Mount Auburn, 
and remembering this afiectionate custom, that is one reason why 



66 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

death does not seem a thing to be dreaded or deplored in America, 
as Avith ns. If I recollect correctly, the only words on the mod- 
est head-stone Avere, " To our beloved Son." 

After Avillingly remaining some time here, beside this simple 
Christian tomb, we Avent to see an ancient place of Indian sepul- 
ture. . The corpses, I belie\'e, had mostly been dug up — poor 

Indians ; hardly alloAved to rest in their graA^es ! IMrs. S 

told me that the first time Naushon had passed into AA'hite men's 
hands from those of the red chief's, this exquisite island, Avith all 
its loA-ely and splendid AA'oods, its herds of Avild deer, and all its 
fair lands, it had been sold for an old coat. (I think a little fire- 
water must haA'c entered into the bargain). After hearing this, 
I began to think /ev<' squire and squaAv Naushon of the olden time 
and their clan hardly deserA'ed to rest in their graA'es. 

Our excellent hosts most kindly pressed us to stay at Naushon, 
but my plans did not admit of this ; so, enchanted AAith their de- 
lectable island, and full of gratitude for all their cordial friendli- 
ness and truly American hospitality toAvard ns, A\'e took leaA^e of 
them and ]Mrs. Grinnell, in the cA^ening, and returned to the main 
land. The A\'eather became A'ery unpropitious, and it blew and 
rained heavily. IIoAve\'er, aac arriA-^ed in damp safety at our hotel. 

1 Avill venture to giA-e some verses AA'hich I wrote for an album 
at Naushon, begging the reader not to be scA'-ere iu his criticisms ; 
for constantly traveling, as I have lately been, is not favorable to 
A'^erse manufacturing. 

NAUSHON. 

If falling stars were truly Avhat they seem, 

The glittering regions of a magic dream, 

Then might we fancy this enchanted islo 

(Where such brisjht, varying beauties gleam and smile), 

Were even an after-gift, in mercy sent. 

Straight from yon golden-fretted lirmament ; 

Rapt from those lustrous paths, to vision bared, 

A down-dropped star from yon grand circle spared j 

Fallen in a gracious moment from the sky, 

To charm to rapture man's earth-wearied eye, 

Frjjm harsher haunts and sceneries to beguile, 

To almost Eden's loss to reconcile. 

A home for world-siek angel-hearts to be, 

A wilder, freer Pai-adise at sea; 

Hung, gem-like, where to stormless deeps are given 

The best rcllcctions of its parent heaven ! 

The loveliest likeness that this planet wears, 

t>f kindred glories — sister sttus and spheres ! 



VERSES ON NAUSHON. 67 



^ But since 'tis not so, let me Iiope, at least — 
Kind new-made iViends, by its possession blest — 
That while no fallen-star hath spread ibr you 
A bowered Elysium midst these waves of blue, 
Your hearts, your hopes, your virtues yet will make 
This radiant island, for your own bright sake, 
A rising-star in guardian-angels' eyes, 
That, better-seeing, wateh the heavenward rise, 
The unceasing soid-fliglit of its human guests, 
Far, iar beyond where sun or system rests 
(Till they, and thou, in their remembering thought 
Fair isle! to faith's own glorious goal are brought). 

Ah, yes, a mounting world, be this hushed spot. 
Where th' carthlier globe's vain mockeries are lorgot, 
A star of rising heaven-bound souls, that feel, 
'Midst such rare scenes, fresh hopes, fresh trusts and zeal, 
And, looking on this lustrous realm below — 
In morn's creation-burst, or sunset's glow — 
This little heaven of beauty, peace, and love, 
Who could forget the kindred heaven above ? 

Though, in thyself, fair isle ! thou ma^vst not soar 
To be their bower of bliss for evermore^ 
Nor midst the unfading realms of splendor shine, 
And hallowed fields, and mansions, all divine ; 
Thy deathless dwellers there may cherish yet 
(Where worlds ne'er sink, nor suns of glory set), 
Thy precious memory's truth, in ages brioht. 
That through eternity shall speed \heir flight. 
Thus thou mayst find thy changeless home within, 
The unbounded soul released Irom earth and sin. 
As now within the unbounded sea, that smiles 
Round thee, like molten skies, sweet isle of isles ! 



CHAPTER XII. 

The Bliiul Asylum at Boston, and Laura Briiltrcman — New Haven, the 
'•City ol' Elms" — Yale Colloixo — Its Objeets of SeitMieo and Art — Profes- 
sor SiUiman, Jim. — Governor Yalo — His Epitaph — HisEnii'lishConnoetions 
— Black domestic Servants — Two (>pinions of them — A sablo Count 
]VUr.say — The American Character — Scenerv about Now Haven — Katy- 
dids, Tree-frogs, and Cricket.s — Connecticut "Yankees. 

I iiAP been very anxious to pay a visit to the Blind Asylum and 
Laura Eritlfroman, at Boston. IVrhaps the reader -will reinenibor 
the very interesting accoimt given of poor Laura by Mr. Pickens, 
ill liis work on America, and I")r. Howe's wouderliil and successllil 
mode of teacliing her. She is blind, and deaf, and dumb, and has 
hardly any sense of smell or taste. 

They told us at the Asylum tliat if they gave her strong Cayenne 
pepper, or any thing equally pungent, she would appear to taste it 
slightly, but nothing less powerful. 

Alter JNIr. Dickens's excellent and elaborate description, I need 
only say say tliat we found Laura apparently well and contented, 
though she is slight and delicate-looking, and has a rather pensive, 
serious expression of countenance. A lady, who we understood 
A\as a governess, especially devoted to her, told us Laura Bridge- 
man had enjoyed a late visit into the country much ; and though 
she could neither see the views, nor hear the merry song of birds, 
nor smell the sweet odor of flowers, yet she appeared to inhale the 
freshness oi'the free air Nvith delight. She adtled that Laura was 
now learning geometry, and that she took very deep interest in it, 
and made great ami rapid progress. Is not this wonderful ? 

AVhen we first entered, the teacher was holding an open letter 
in one hand, while Avith the other she was repeating the contents 
of it to the poor girl, by telling it very rapidly on the fingers of 
Ijauras lifted hand. This was a letter from her country friends, 
and it was extraordinary to observe each eloquent change of ex- 
pression tliat passed over Laura's intelligent and most speaking 
face. Wonder, pleasure — sometimes a slight shade ol" vexation and 
disappointment — regret, ailection, mirth, sympathy, doubt, anxiety, 
luqie, exjiectation ; all seemed to impress themselves by turns on 
the voiceless and sightless one's features. I could almost irad the 
letter on Laura's eloquent liice, which those mute signs, quick as 
lightnhig, were conveying to her mind I 



'CITY OF ELMS." 69 



I might well have been reminded of the iUuminetl alabaster vase 
to ■which some one imaginatively compared a celebrated poet's 
conntenance, lor really Laura's lace appeared almost like a crystal 
one, and the mighty mystery of mind seemed peering through the 
transparent casket. I do not tliink I ever saw any features that 
had a voice to help theirt^ or eyes to look with, speak so impress- 
ively with their varied changes. All her features and movements 
seemed forced by her active mind to act as voice, tongue, and eyes. 
"When we first entered the Asylum, the blind children were sing- 
ing, in a sort of music-hall, furnished with a good organ. What 
a pleasure must this be to these poor bereaved beings I Their 
voices sounded very sweet and solemn, and they had evidently been 
carefully taught. 

The Institution for the Blind is admirably situated, on open and 
elevated ground, and commands a noble and splendid prospect of 
the island-studilod harbor, the city and circumjacent country : its 
lofty position, and the pure air that circulates around it, are, no 
doubt, highly conducive to the health of the pupils. But how 
mournf\il to think, on looking out of the vast opened windows of 
the establishment, that all this beauty and glory can shine not to 
those poor benighted eyes ! 

New Haven is lovely ; but I must explain to what it owes 
its principal charm ; it is to the exceeding profusion of its stately 
elms, which render it not only one of the most charming but one 
of the most " unique" cities I ever beheld. From the trees it is 
called the " City of Elms," and it may be imagined how delight- 
ful a place of residence they nmst make it in the heat of an Amer- 
ican summer. Even now we find their shade very welcome ; and 
wherever we go, in street or suburb, we see these imrbrageous 
trees — in short, I think, there are multitudinous avenues of them. 

We lately paid a very interesting visit to the college library, 
with a lady to whom I had a letter, and who has been most 
friendly and kind since our stay here. In this city is Yale College, 
W'hich is said to have a greater number of students than any other 
college in the United States. Yale College was fountled at Kill- 
ingworth in 1701, and subsequently established at New Haven 
in 1717. There are several college-halls, about one hundred and 
four feet long by forty feet wide and four stories high ; a hall for 
theological students, a chapel, the Lyceum, and the Athenannn. 
Behind the main building is another range which contains a build- 
ing devoted to an interesting collection of paintings by Col. Trum- 
bull ; a chemical laboratory, and the Commons' Hall, which has 



70 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

in its second story a fine mincralogical cabinet, supposed to be by 
far the most complete in the United States. Buildings devoted to 
the law and medical departments are hard by. We saw in the 
library a likeness of poor Major Andre, drawn by himself, just 
before his execution, and a lock of his hair. 

I was particularly interested in my visit to the cabinet of min- 
erals. They boast that they have some specimens far superior to 
any corresponding ones in the British Museum, but this is a knotty 
point which I am not at all competent to decide. The specimens 
of meteoric iron struck me certainly as extraordinarily fine : one 
piece was truly enormous, and if the theory of some natural phi- 
losophers respecting their lunar origin be correct, it seems almost 
frightful to think of such an iron rock being lanched at us from 
such a distance I We had better take care and keep on good 
terms with the moon, if she can bombard us thus. One can hardly 
help wondering, when gazing on that huge projectile, how so many 
jooets and poetasters have escaped her vengeance, making her, as 
they do, the target for their rhyming arrows, without mercy or 
compunction. Long sufiering must the " Casta Diva" be indeed! 

Besides my letter to Mrs. W , I had one for Mrs. D . 

They both appear highly-accomplished and agreeable persons, and 
are nearly related to wealthy planters in the South. Owing to 

Mrs. D being absent from New Haven during the greater 

part of the time wc were there, I saw the more of Mrs. W 

and her daughter : J Ibund them most particularly pleasing and 
amiable. It was with them we went to the colleges, the library 
and mincralogical cabinet. We had the advantage of meeting 
Professor Silliman, Jun., at the latter, who was kind enough to ac- 
company us round, and his elucidatory observations rendered our 
visit far more attractive and interesting than it would otherwise 
have been. 

The chief benefactor of the college. Governor Yale (from whom 
the institution received its name), died July 8, 1721. Here is the 
old gentleman's epitaph (in the church-yard at Wrexham) : 

"Under this tomb lyes interred Elhiu Yale, of Place Gronow, Esq. 
Born 5th April, 1648, and dyed the Sth of July, 1721, aged seventy-three 
years. 

"Born in America, in Europe bred, 
In AlVic traveled, and in Asia wed, 
Where long he lived and thrived ; at London dead. 
Much good, some ill he did ; so hope all's even. 
And that his soul through Mercy's gone to Heaven. 



YALE COLLEGE. 71 



You that survive and read, take care, 
For this most certain exit to prepare ; 
For only the actions of the Just 
Smell sweet, and blossom in the dust." 

The last two lines are a naughty plagiarism from old Shirley, 
and poor Charles Lamb would have taken, perhaps, ofiense at the 
previous two. Touching the plagiarism, it is more pardonable 
than the almost parody I once saw in a country church-yard iu 
England, on Lord Byron's fine lines, 

"Bright be the place of thy soul," &c. 
The line— 

" On earth she was all but divine," 

was thus rendered : 

" On earth she was all ive could wjsA." 

The rhyme was unmercifully sacrificed ; not even did they deign 
to press an extraneous line, slightly altered into the service, and 
say— 

"And the spoon ran away with the dish." 

I return to old Governor Yale.* One of his daughters married 
a son of the then Duke of Devonshire ; another, a grandson of 
the Earl of Guildford. It was he of whom Collins says in his 
"Peerage of England :" — "he brought such quantities of goods 
from India that, finding no house large enough to stow them in, 
he had a })ublic sale of the overplus, and that was the first auction 
in England." 

Yale College was instituted when Connecticut was in its infan- 
cy, and has exerted a powerful influence over its literary, moral, 
social, and religious character. A new department was establish- 
ed in the college in 1847, called the Department of Philosophy 
and the Arts. The gentleman I have mentioned, Professor Silli- 
man, Jun., instructs in elementary and analytical chemistry, min- 
eralogy, and metallurgy. 

I was talking, the other day, to Mrs. W and her daughter 

of the capabilities of the black people for making good domestic 
servants, and remarking how very civil, attentive, and intelligent 
we had uniformly found the black waiters and attendants we had 

* On the monument to Governor Eaton is a quaint inscription. He was 
buried here, with his son-in-law and daughter near him. It thus concludes : 
" T' attend you, sir, under these framed stones, 
Are come your honored son and daughter Jones, 
On each hand to repose their wearied bones." 



72 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

occasionally encountered. I was surprised to hear them condemn 
them unconditionally, and declare they carefully avoided having 
any of them in their house ; speaking in no measured terms of 
their having many uneradicably bad habits. How different from 
Mr. Webster's expressed opinion concerning them I But it is very 
natural that they should, from their Carolinian antecedents, be 
disposed not to judge the colored race with much impartiality ; 
and it is certainly probable that, after being accustomed to them 
as slaves, they would be likely to be a little impatient of them as 
servants. Altogether, I can easily imagine the household arrange- 
ments, under the circumstances of the case, not being conducted 
very harmoniously or satisfactorily to either party. 

The old black waiter who attends on us here is an admirable 
specimen of his class. He is invaluable to the master of the es- 
tablishment, and I find he is constantly spoken of by the white 
servants, quite respectfully, as " Mr. Williams." He speaks par- 
ticularly good English, without any twang, and has the manners 
of a quiet, highly-respectable English butler. 

We saw one very curious specimen of a dandy among his fellow- 
colorists, lounging down the street. He was a sable Count d'Or- 
say. His toilet was the most elaborately recherche you can 
imagine. He seemed intensely and harmlessly happy in his coat 
and waistcoat, of the finest possible materials ; and the careful 
carelessness of the adjustment of the wool and hat was not readily 
to be surpassed. 

The more I see of American society, the more I like it. In 
general, I should say, they are a peculiarly sensitive people, and 
yet very forbearing and not easily offended. They are generally 
accused of being conceited. I can only say, as far as I have seen, 
their candor appears to be far more remarkable than their conceit. 
Indeed, I have perpetually found them volunteer remarks on what 
they consider defects in their manners and customs, with the great- 
est possible good-humor and ingenuousness. Nay, I have some- 
times, in common honesty, found myself compelled to take their part 
against themselves. In traveling, their courtesy, their good-temper, 
their obligingness, their utter unselfishness, are beyond all praise. 

This town is dehghtfuUy situated. It is built round the head 
of the bay, and is partly skirted by an amphitheatre of hills, of 
which two, at their termination, present steep bluffs, which rise, 
indeed, almost perpendicularly to the height of three hundred and 
seventy feet. The population is about 20,500. We have had 
several charming drives with Mrs. and Miss W The couu- 



CONNECTICUT YANKEES. 73 

try surrounding New Haven, is very picturesque and fine, and 
these bluffs look very imposing. They took us to see some ex- 
ceedingly nice country houses, with grounds well laid out. Their 

own mansion was a very pretty one (as was also Mrs. D 's), 

completely embowered in trees, except on one side, where there 
was a beautiful garden. 

The noise the katydids, tree-frogs, and crickets make at New 
Haven, is inconceivable — almost enough to interrupt the students 
at their labors. The former repeat very plainly the sound that 
gives them their name, in a most positive and authoritative man- 
ner ; and, after a little time, you will hear others apparently re- 
plying, " Katy-didn't." Of course the prodigious number of these 
insects at New Haven arises from the multitude of trees. 

The Americans, I find, call the New Englanders Yankees in 
general ; though, I believe, the meaning of the term varies accord- 
ing to the section of country you happen to be in. They tell me 
that almost all the Americans met with abroad, especially those 
who venture into remote localities, such as India, China, Austra- 
lia, Polynesia, and other distant regions, are Yankees, i.e., New 
Englanders ; and that of these, by far the greater jDart are the 
enterprising, active, indefatigable, Connecticut Yankees. It is, 
said, if you ask a Connecticut Yankee, in any part of the world,^ 
how he is, he will, if not " sick," answer " moving, sir," equivalent 
to saying " well ;" for, if well, he is sure to be on the move. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Bridgeport — The Irish Housemaid — Ultra-Republicans even in America — 
The Great Croton Aqueduct described — Supply of Water to New York — 
New York Trotters — Delmonico's Hotel — Excursion with American 
Friends — Glorious Scenery of Staten Island — Greenwood Cemetery — 
Its Extent, Scenery and Monuments — Miss Lynch the Poetess and Fred- 
rika Bremer. 

In coming here (to Delmonico's Hotel, New York), on the 14th 
October, from New Haven, we stopped at Bridgeport, at a rather 
indifferent hotel — that is to say, compared with the generality of 
the hotels in the United States. I believe it is near that town 
that the well-known Mr. Barnum, of Tom Thumb and " woolly 
horse" notoriety, has his abode — his splendid abode, I fancy I may 
say, if the accounts generally given of it are correct. 

D 



74 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

We did not see Bridgeport to advantage, as it rained a good 

deal "while we were there. Both V and I were quite sorry to 

leave the city of Elms, and our very kind friends Mrs. and Miss 

W— , and Mrs. D , who had made our sojourn there so 

singularly agreeable. I should think Bridgeport is a pretty place 
when you can see it, which we could scarcely do for the cascade- 
like rain during our short stay. 

There was a poor Irish housemaid there who touched our feel- 
ings extremely : we had watched her with compassion in the 
pouring rain milking the cows, her gown-skirt over her head, 
crouched in the wet grass. When she came in with our tea we 
asked her some questions about her leaving Ireland, and she ap- 
peared delighted to talk about the "ould country ;" ill ofl^ as she 
had been there. She seemed to think it the most beauteous and 
charming place on the face of the globe. Every time we saw her 
after that, we had a little talk about " the fair Emerald Isle ;" 
and on our coming away, when I gave her a little gratuity, she 
fairly burst into tears and thanked me most heartily ; but, I verily 
believe, more for talking to her about beautiful "ould Ireland," 
and displaying interest in her simple history, than for the trifle I 
presented her with. She sobbed out as we took leave, " Och sure, 
my heart warmed toward ye from the first, when I found ye was 
from the ould countries .'" thus cordially uniting together the land 
of the Saxon with her own far-ofi' Erin. 

I have been reading some extracts from late American news- 
papers, which I inclose, concerning the tariff. It is easily to be 
seen that there are radicals and ultra-republicans in the United 
States as well as elsewhere, which I think is scarcely well known 
to politicians in England. What intemperance of language 
there is in these extracts I To judge by the meeting described, 
they seem just as violent as the malcontents of Europe, and fully 
as discontented with their government ; but if they ever did more 
than talk here, they would find no merciful Louis the Sixteenths, 
or Charles the Tenths, or hesitating, compromising, concession- 
making Louis-Philippes : the executive would deal with them at 
once with determination, promptitude, and just whatever amount 
of severity might be deemed necessary. 

I have ibund those kindest of friends, Mrs. Barclay and Mrs. 
W. Barclay here. Mrs. Barclay most kindly invited me to spend 
the winter with them in Georgia, but as I wished extremely to 
go down the Mississippi to New Orleans, I, with great reluctance, 
declined their truly friendly proposal. We went with them one 



THE CROTON AQUEDUCT. 75 

day to see the Ili^h Bridge of the great Croton Aqueduct. It is 
very magnificent indeed. This bridge crosses Harlem River and is 
made of stone : it is one thousand four hundred and fifty feet long, 
wilh fourteen piers, eight of which bear arches of eighty feet span, 
and seven others of fifty feet span, one hundred and fourteen i'eet 
above tide water at the top. It has cost about nine hundred 
thousand dollars. The whole cost of the aqueduct will be about 
fourteen million dollars. 

" The aqueduct commences about five miles from the Hudson," 
says ' Appleton's Railroad Companion,' " about forty miles from 
the City Hall. The dam, which is two hundred and fifty feet long, 
seventy feet wide at the bottom and seven at the top, and forty 
feet high, is built of stone and cement. A pond five miles in length 
is created by the dam, covering a surface of four hundred acres, 
and containing five hundred million gallons of water. From the 
dam the aqueduct proceeds, sometimes tunnehng through solid 
rocks, crossing valleys by embankments and brooks by culverts, 
until it reaches Harlem River. It is built of stone, brick, and ce- 
ment, arched over and under ; is six feet three inches wide at the 
bottom, seven feet eight inches wide at the side walls, and eight 
feet five inches high ; it has a descent of thirteen inches and a 
quarter per mile, and will discharge sixty millions of gallons iu 
twenty-four hours." 

Then follows a description of the High Bridge, and it goes on to 
say : " The receiving reservoir is at Eighty-sixth-street and Sixth- 
Avenue, covering thirty-five acres, and containing one hundred and 
fifty million gallons of water. There is now no city in the world 
better supplied with pure and wholesome water than New York, and 
the supply would be abundant if the population were five times its 
present number." Another account I have seen proceeds to say, 
that the distributing reservoir on Murray's-hill, in Fortieth-street, 
covers about four acres, and is constructed of stone and cement, 
raised forty-five feet above the street, and contains twenty millions of 
gallons. The water is thence distributed over the city in iron pipes, 
laid sutficiently deep under ground so as to be secure from frost. 

As we returned from the "High Bridge," wc were passed by 
some of the famous New York trotters, who flew by at a most won- 
derful pace, drawing after them almost invisible little light vehicles. 

Delmonico's is a most excellent hotel, admirably conducted ; it 
has all sorts of comforts and conveniences ; charming apartments, 
delightful baths of all kinds, and during the whole day a number 
of extremely good carriages for hire by the hour, or just as you 



76 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

choose, are drawn up before the door. In addition to this, the at- 
tendance is remarkably good. 

We dined at Mr. H. Grinnell's,* the other evening (to whom I 

had letters from Mr. C ) : he is brother of Mr. J. Grinnell, 

at whose hospitable house we were staying at New Bedford. I 
like Mrs. H. Grinnell exceedingly, and her daughter seems a most 
thoroughly well-educated and accomplished young lady. Mr. Grin- 
nell showed us some specimens of Californian gold that looked re- 
markably pure. Their drawing-rooms were adorned with some 
beautiful Italian paintings. 

I have just returned from an agreeable little excursion to Staten 
Island, to dine and sleep at Mr. and Mrs. Cunard's enchanting 
villa in this beautiful locality. No words can describe the mag- 
nificence of American autumnal coloring. When the sun rose on 
the rainbow-tinted woods of the island in the morning, what a 
glorious blazing world we beheld! The scenery of Staten Island 
is superb, and not only is that well worthy of admiration, but its 
situation commands a glorious view of the Bay of New York, 
Long Island, &c. 

We had, indeed, a delightful visit, though from my stupidly mis- 
understanding what Mr. Cunard said, I thought it was limited to a 
dniner invitation, and consequently, we arrived at the house, maid- 
less, trunkless, and carpet-bag-less. Light was soon thrown upon 
the mistake ; but we found though we had not burned our ships, 
yet that no mode of retreat was open to us, for the last steamer 
tor New York had already departed. However, Mrs. Cunard most 
kindly supplied us with all possible paraphernalia and caparisons 
and appointments, and we passed a charming evening listening to 
the beautiful instrumental music, with which Mrs. Cunard, who 
is an admirable performer, entertained us delightfully. 

I must now give a brief account of Greenwood Cemetery, which 
we visited the other day in company with Mr. and Miss Grirmell, 
who obligingly insisted on taking us there, and showing us the 
place. It is in the south part of Brooklyn, about three miles from 
Fulton Ferry (you may also go to Greenwood by the new ferry, at 
Whitehall, which lands you in the vicinity of the cemetery on a 
very long pier). Greenwood contains two hundred and forty-two 
acres, of which a great part is beautifully covered with woods of 
a natural growth ; and I think the surprisingly brilliant colors of 
autumn are more striking and exquisite here than those at Staten 

* This is the gentleman who subscribed so munificently to the American 
expedition in search of Sir John Franklin. 



GREENWOOD CEMETERY. 77 

Island, or New Haven, or in the country before we came to New 
York. These were perfectly extraordinary — the most dazzling 
scarlet, the most golden and vivid yellows and Tyrian purples, and 
rich, deep, velvet-hke crimsons, and delicate pale primrose-tints, 
and soft surviving greens, and rose-hues, such as flush the lips of 
Indian shells — all cast their sumptuous shadowings over the quiet 
graves, like the reflections from richly-painted windows, " blushing 
with the blood of kings and queens," in some mighty old cathedral. 
The views from the heights of the cemetery were sublime. I ad- 
mired the one from Ocean Hill the most. There is a lovely va- 
riety of valleys, elevations, plains, groves, and glades, and paths. 
When will London have any thing even aiyproaching to this magnifi- 
cent cemetery ? The ocean rolling and moaning, with its fine mel- 
ancholy, oi'gan-like sounds, so near, like a mighty mourner, she can 
not have, nor the gorgeous pall cast over the tombs by a Western 
autumn ; but all the rest she could have, and yet has not. 

The cemetery is traversed by many winding paths and avenues, 
all beautiful and solemn. Some of the monuments are interesting. 
There is one to an Iowa Indiair Princess, named Dohumme ; an- 
other handsome one to a young lady who was killed while return- 
ing from a ball. There is one thing which I did not quite like, 
and yet it is not only useful, but necessary, and that is, having 
" Guide Boards" given to visitors, to direct them in these solemn 
labyrinths. We were told that, but for this precaution, many per- 
sons would probably lose themselves in the Cemetery ; still, there 
is something not in keeping with all the rest in these melancholy, 
methodical maps ; but that is only fanciful. 

We met, a short time since, at Mr. and Mrs. Willis's, Miss 
Lynch, the poetess ; she is expecting Miss Fredrika Bremer to pay 
her a visit shortly. Miss Bremer's works are very much liked in 
the States. I believe she is going to remain in America some 
time. Miss Lynch, who has kindly sent me a delightful volume 
of her poems, reminded me a little of our poor L. E. L. in her 
manner and conversation. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

riiiladolphia — Tncessant Uproar in that City — its Custom House and Ceme- 
teries — Bailimorc — Battle and Wasiiington Monuments — The Catholic 
Cathedral — The JMerehants' Shot Tower — Its Trade and Commerce — Its 
Increase and Population — Baltimore Clippers — Barnum's Hotel — Sensi- 
tiveness of Americans to Cold — The Deal" Gentleman and His Stentorian 
Friend — Anthracite Coal Fires. 

We came to Baltimore, via Philadelphia ; and though I very 
much admired the regularity of the Iron City's streets, and the 
beauty ot^ many ol" the principal buildings, its profusion of white 
marble, and its perfection of cleanliness, 1 was glad to escape from 
its unearthly nightly noises, and the wars and rumors of Avars which 
seemed unceasing and ever-increasing in the City of Brotherly Love 
— to Baltimore, 

The Society of Friends at any rate, methinks, must gain many 
converts in the former place. Verily I was a Quaker all the time 
I staid there, and still tremble at the recollection of it. All night 
a sound as of a masque and procession of one hundred menageries 
let loose, filled one's ears. The deserts of Africa seemed to have 
disgorged half their denizens on the beautiful streets of fair Phila- 
delphia ; while bells, horns, gongs, and rattling fire-engines, helped 
to swell the hideous chorus. 

I had understood there had been, some time ago, serious riots at 
Philadeljdiia, but that they were all over now, and I was, natur- 
ally surprised at this hubbub ; but on inquiring the next morning, 
all I learnt was — it was the fashion of the dwellers of Moyamen- 
sing, a suburb of Philadelphia, called, I believe, a "district," to 
regale the ears of the inhabitants of that city frequently with such 
harmonious serenades. These gentlemen appear to indulge in very 
peculiar notions of music and melody, and to be resolved that at 
least their neighbors shall admire no rival harmonists, by leaving 
them completely deafened by their din. The Moyamensingists, in 
short, seem to look upon a riot or a row, or something resembling 
it, as the first necessary of life : they also would seem to entertain 
a new theory with I'egard to sleep, and to consitler it as a wholly 
needless indulgence. To any one not participating in these senti- 
ments, Philadelphia (while thus apparently at the mercy of this 



APPEARANCE OF BALTIMORE. 79 

theoretical and experimentalizing suburb) can not be an eligible 
place of residence, I think : Sancho Panza certainly would shun 
it ; for blessed, he declared, was the man who invented sleep. 

It is said, it is the colored people residing in Moyarnonsing, who 
are the chief ringleaders of these frequent riots ; but I know not 
how this may be. At New York I lieard the authorities at Phil- 
adelphia very much found fault with for their supineness in allow- 
ing these disturbances to take place : if there was a proper amount 
of energy and resolution di-splayed, it was said, Philadelj)liia might 
be as orderly and tranquil as the other cities of the United States. 

Our hotel is opposite a beautiful building, the Custom House 
(formerly the United States Bank), of the Doric order of archi- 
tecture, built in imitation oi" the Parthenon at Athens, but lacking 
the side colonnades ; it reminded me rnueli of its glorious prototype, 
except in its situation, which is unfavorable to it. There are some 
iine cemeteries here : "Laurel Mill," "Green Mount Cemetery," 
and others which my brief stay did not allow me to visit. 

Baltimore is a very handsome city, situated on the north side of 
the Patapsco River. Jones's Fall, a confluent of the Patapsco, 
divides it into two parts. (This is an ill-sounding conjunction of 
Anglo-Saxon and Indian names. Again 1 rejoice at tlie kick that 
spared Niagara Irom a denomination similar to the preceding one I) 
Three fine stone bridges and four wooden ones crossing this stream 
coimect the diilerent parts of the city. 

The streets ol' Baltimore are, in general, very regular, clean, 
broad, and straight, and it has several fine monuments, among 
which lower consj)iciously. Battle Monument, and Washington 
Monument. The Catholic Cathedral is a noble structure : it has 
the largest organ in the Union ; this instrument has six thousand 
pipes and thirty-six stops : and the cathedral has two valuable 
paintings, one presented by Louis the Sixteenth, and the other 
(" St. Louis burying his oliicers and soldiers slain belbre Tunis") 
given by Charles the Tenth. Tlie Merchants' Shot Tower hero 
rises above all the monuments that distinguish Jialtimore : it is 
two hundred and fifty feet high, and is said to be higher than any 
similar building in the world, exceeding by one foot that at Villach, 
in Carinthia. 

Baltimore is said to be the greatest flour market in existence 
(within twenty miles of the city there are seventy or more flouring 
mills) ; and no city in the United States deals so extensively in 
tobacco. The Patapsco aflbrds numerous valuable mill sites (fall- 
ing eight hundred ieet in thirty miles) ; and Jones's Falls also yield 



:;0 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

.1 considerable water-power — it has thus great advantages for man- 
ufactures, and they appear to keep pace with its commerce. 

This flourishing city spreads rapidly : one thousand nine hundred 
and fifty-nine houses were erected during the year 1847, the as- 
sessed value of which is more than two million six hundred thou- 
sand dollars. The population, in 1840, was 102,313 ; it is now 
said to be about 125,000. The capital of Maryland contains up- 
ward of one hundred churches. The Maryland University is 
here : it constitutes one of the most important institutions of the 
kind in the country. 

Canton, a skeleton suburb of the city of monuments, is waiting 

for nothing but — houses ; like the magnificent library at E , 

that had every thing complete except books. 

Baltimore has an admirable harbor, which is incessantly crowd- 
ed with shipping : and who has not heard of the Baltimore cfip- 
pers, that start "before the wind has time to reach their sails, and 
never allow it to come up with them ?" 

We are at a magnificent hotel here, called " Barnum's," and its 
comforts and excellent arrangements are scarcely to be surpassed. 
It is admirably conducted, and if it has not quite the " gentleman- 
like i^rters" spoken of in some of the hotel cards, it has, at least, 
a set of most attentive and assiduous domestics. 

In coming by the railroad here, I was struck one evening by the 
dread the Americans appear to have of catching cold. The car 

was extremely close, and V and I let down our window, and 

much enjoyed the cool, fresh air, which we thus secured in our 
immediate vicinity — we beheld instantly a simultaneous stir among 
the passengers. At first, I could not think that the fresh, but 
hardly cold air, I had been instrumental in introducing to the 
crowded and sufibcating car, occasioned this movement ; but I 
soon ascertained that such was the fact, on seeing a gentleman 
carefully barricading himself with a large carpet-bag against the 
assaults of his aerial foe. His appearance, just peeping over this 
gaudy-patterned, defensive wall, was rather comical. 

One opened a vast umbrella, and disappeared behind its ample 
shade from scrutiny and the supposed severity of the elements, 
looking — as there was neither rain nor sun — like that Asiatic po- 
tentate above whose head, as a sign of royalty, an umbrella is rev- 
erentially and habitually carried. There was a general raising 
of collars and buttoning of coats, and slouching of hats, and shrink- 
ing, and shrugging ; but all w^ere too courteous and obliging to 
rciiionstrate, and I am not sure that one of the victims did not 



ANTHRACITE COAL FIRES. 81 

actually most politely assist us to open this terrible window, though 
so much to his own discomfiture. 

Shall I confess it 1 grieved as I was to cause so much apparent 
annoyance, I had not the magnanimity to raise the glass — I felt 
so sure that, though unpalatable to them, this homoeopathic dose 
of pure air was for their good. It must be, no doubt, the great 
variability and the violent extremes of their climate, that render 
them thus susceptible of the slightest chill. I heard some saying ; 
" we shall all be frozen before we get to our journey's end," yet 
there was only a little part of the window open, and the only per- 
sons close to it were ourselves. I think I ought to have shut it, 
notwithstanding ; but I can only hope none of the passengers suf- 
fered from this barbarous infliction of Zephyrus. We who stood 
the whole brunt of it certainly did not. 

The room adjoining our sitting-room is occupied by an exceed- 
ingly deaf gentleman, and he has the advantage of jjossessing a 
friend who has a tremendously loud voice — a perfect Stentor : the 
hallooing and bawling are past description. In consequence of this 
proximity, we found Baltimore by day almost as noisy as Philadel- 
phia by night. At first I could not imagine what the shouting was, 
and thought a caravan of lions or Moyamensingers had arrived, 
and were accommodated with apartments close by. Soon, liow- 
ever, the various friendly inquiries roared out, and the low milder 
answers, informed me of the truth. 

I was sorry, but really could not help hearing the communica- 
tions addressed to the deaf gentleman, and being enlightened by 
them considerably about "lots," and " sales," and "dollars." What 
a comical efibct it sometimes had to hear the most insignificant re- 
marks hallooed out with Apollonicon-loudness, and often with a 
wrong emphasis, from the difficulty of sustaining and pitching the 
voice properly, in speaking to the deaf in that tone of " live thun- 
der" which people ordinarily employ under such circumstances. I 
believe one ought, instead, to speak loio and distinctly. Hark ! 
listen to Stentor I — for one must whether one will or no. The 
louder shouts are italicised. " I guess so, sir : that cha]) in the 
jKjjper and salt coat 2^02Jpcd in ; he hemmed and hmved at first, 
and then squeaked out — " " What?" " Squeaked, I say," with a 
roar. 

The weather is beginning to get colder, and a little fire every 
now and then is not unpleasant. I like the anthracite coal, in 
which taste I am quite in a minority : it is supposed to give 
headaches, and to bo very unwholesome ; I have never sufiered 

D* 



TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



ram its c fleets as yet, and it gives so little trouble, burning 
uiolly. and lasting? lor an immense time. It goes on and on like 
free horse, wanting not that whip the poker, and then there is 
smoke. But I think its great advantage is its burning so long 
I'ithout any necessity ibr that drawing-room earthquake — the 
istracting uproar of flinging coals on the grate. In short, the 
oal-scuttle (that great institution of England) sings very small 
Inhere anthracite is used, and its inner darkness is banished into 
uter darkness. 



CHAPTER XV. 

^hc City of Washington — Pennsylvania Avenue — The " City of JVIagnificent 
Distances" — The Stentorian Gentleman and his Hogs — The Capitol de- 
scribed — Monument to Washington — The Navy Yard — Georgetown — A 
Digression to Tunis — Public Buildings — The Post Olfice — The Patent 
Oljice — The Treasury — The President's Mansion — The " White House" 
— Visit to General Taylor, the late President — His Daughter, Mrs. Bliss 
— Appearance of General Taylor — His Aflahility — His Conversation — 
Invitation to the Authoress — Heat of the Weather in November. 

Washington would be a beautiful city if it were built ; but as 
t is not I can not say much about it. There is the Capitol, how- 
ver, standing like the sun, from which are to radiate majestic 
teams of streets and avenues of enormous breadth and astonishing 
ength ; but at present the execution limps and lingers sadly after 
he design. 

This noble metropolitan myth hovers over the north bank of the 
/*otomae (this Indian name means, I believe, the wild swan, or 
he river of the wild swan), about one hundred and twenty miles 
i'om Chesapeake bay and at the head of tide water. Pennsyl- 
vania Avenue is splendid : it is about three hundred feet broad ; 
)ut the houses are not colossal enough to be in keeping with the 
mmeuse space appropriated to the thoroughfare. They should bo 
it least as high as the highest of old Edinburgh houses, instead of 
ike those of London, which some one compared to the Paris ones 
Baking a profound courtesy. Now these Pennsylvania Avenue 
labitations seem making a very distant courtesy indeed to their 
)pposite non-neighbors ; and it made us think of people at an im- 
nensely wide dining-table, separated as "far as the poles assunder," 
jy way of a pleasing rencontre and social intercourse. However, 
-hat is merely fancy ; you do not want to talk across the streets ; 



CITY OF WASHINGTON. 83 



and this appearance would vanish if" the houses were taller and 
larger. 

Washington is called the " City of Magnificent Distances :" it 
renninds one a little of a vast plantation Avitli the houses purposely 
kept far apart to give them room to grow and spread : the "side- 
walks" of Penn-sylvania Avenue are twenty-six feet wide. 

My unseen friend, Steutor, Avas in the same railroad car with us 
from Baltimore to this place, and the gentleman who Avas hard of 
hearing as well — at least I can hardly think there can be two 
sets of lungs of such marvelous power in the same country. Still, 
the theme of his discourse was very difierent ; one subject occupied 
him all the way — it was hogs. The car was full, I was at some 
distance I'rom him, but no other voice was heard — how could it 
be ? Poor Steutor I he was lamenting with a most lachrymose 
roar, the abduction of some rnagnilicent swine : their size was 
something prodigious, unparalleled {macsfoso), their fat (in a melt- 
ing tone) unheard oi^ — they were Slentor's I The howl with 
which this dreadiid fact was enunciated made one start. 

But this was not all. Some friends, possessors of almost equally 
enchanting animals, had lost theirs too. " One wonderfully splen- 
did creature of enormous dimensions (emphatically expressed in a 
perfect hurrah), and promising 1o grow much huger, was found 
killed (this in a lack-a-daisical bellow of grief and ire), supposed to 
be with a spiteful motive, but the wretches will suffer lor it (a 
iiine-times-nine, and-one-cheer-more sort of a tone) I It was the 
most magnificent hog quite, that ever — " and here, wonderfid to 
relate, the noise of the railroad, together perhaps with his own 
emotions, overpowered the narrator. There was that terrible din 
that they make sometimes in the States when another train is 
expected. Very quickly, however, this was over, and there was 
Steutor shouting as loud as ever, or rather louder, as if indignant 
at the interruption. 

" The lovely, interesting widow was much afllicted," contin- 
ued he. " What," thought I, " can he mean, the widow of the 
pig I" I found soon she was the proprietress of the fat animal he 
was grieving for. He thundered on in the same way, and on the 
same subject, till we arrived; and if he did not leave his poor 
friend much more deaf than he found him, it is matter of surprise. 
What an invaluable "muezzin" he would make I 

I have had the great pleasure since I came here of making ac- 
quaintance with Madame C. de la 13 " - '' ,' the Spanish minisfrcss, 
hero, the authoress of a mostlcharming and entertaining work on 



SI TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Mexico, published some years ago. It made one long to go to 
JMexico, and 1 liud it is not at all impracticable, from Madame 
C 's account. I have a great mind to try it. 

We went to see the Capitol soon alter our arrival. There is a 
fine colossal statue by Greenongh, of Washington, placed in front 
ol' it. The Capitol itself is a very noble-looking and imposing struc- 
ture, though I think disadvantageously situated Avith regard to the 
city, as it seems rather to present the appearance of running away 
from it, \vhile, like the flight of Louis-Philippe in the memorable 
days of February, there is nothing running after it. However, it 
is an exceedingly striking and handsome building, and is otherwise 
very finely situated. 

It is built on an elevation that is about seventy-two feet above 
tide water. It is of the Corinthian order of architecture, and is 
built of freestone; and the front, including the wings, is three hun- 
dred and illty-two feet long, and the depth of the Avings is one hun- 
dred and twenty-one feet. The projection in the main I'ront, which 
looks to the East (hardly complimentary to the West, in this world 
of the West), is decorated by a handsome portico of twenty-two 
lofty Corinthian columns. The broad steps leading to the portico 
are adorned by pedestals, on one of which is a group in marble, 
representing Columbus, with a globe in his outstretched hand, and 
an Aboriginal American of that New World he discovered, a fe- 
male ligure, in a lovely, half crouching attitude of veneration and 
M'onder, beside him. The renuiining pedestals will, in process 
of time, no doubt, be ornamented by groups of statuary. To the 
highest top of the dome, the height of the building is one hundred 
and twenty feet. The rotunda, which is under the dome, is nine- 
ty-five feet in diameter, and tlie same in height, In this rotunda 
there are some celebrated pictures by Trumbull, representing his- 
torical subjects. 

The hall of the House of Representatives is in the second story 
of the south M'ing. Its form is semicircular ; it is ninety-six feet 
long and sixty feet high, and has a dome supported by t■^^•enty-four 
columns of native variegated marble, whose capitals are of Italian 
marble. The chair of the Speaker occupies, so to say, the centre of 
the chord of the arc, the members' seats radiate back from the chair 
to the massive pillars. Congress is not sitting now. The Senate 
chamber is in the second story of the north wing, semicircular like 
the other, but of smaller dimensions, being seventy-eight feet long 
and forty-five feet high. The library is a iine room, containing 
thirlv thousand volumes. 



THE NAVY YARD.— TUNIS. S5 

After seeing the Capitol, we went to have a glimpse of the Navy 
Yard. There we beheld two mountainous looking ship-houses, a 
man-of-war steamer, the Alleghany, lately dismantled, &c. Keep- 
ing guard on board the Alleghany, was an old Irish marine, with his 
face tied up for the tooth-ache — a most lugubrious-looking sentinel. 

We saw a sadder sight after that, a large number of slaves, who 
seemed to be forging their own chains, but they were making chains, 
anchors, &c., for the United States navy. I hope and think slav- 
ery will be done away with soon in the District of Columbia, where 
it seems indeed strikingly out of place.* 

Madame C. de la B kindly took us to Georgetown a day 

or two ago in her carriage. It is on the left bank of the Potomac 
niver, two miles to the west of Washington, from which it is sep- 
arated by Rock Creek, over which are two bridges, I think the 
situation of Georgetown delightful : it commands a line view of the 
Potomac, of Washington, and the circumjacent country. Here 
you observe a number of handsome buildings and pleasant-looking 
country seats, and here, I believe, many of the corps diplotnatique 
reside. 

Dr. Heap, American consul at Tunis (whom we made acquaint- 
ance with there), called on me lately. I was glad to see him, 
but very sorry to learn that he had had more than one melancholy 
loss lately. His charming daughter, Mrs. Fcrrier, was in a very 
delicate, indeed alarming state of health Mdiile we were there : she 
has since died, and she left her husband sullering from the same 
complaint — consumption. 

Dr. Heap told me how well the Bey had behaved on the occa- 
sion of the death of my poor much-esteemed friend. Sir Thomas 
Reade. He sent two thousand troops to attend the funeral, and 
oficred the Abdellia to Lady Reade for her life, if she would like 
to live there. I was so much reminded of Tunis by the way in 
vt^hich Dr. Heap shook the forefinger of the right hand before his 
chin, whenever he wished to say " No." This negative sign is 
constantly used there ; and I remember little dear Peter Reade, at 
five years old, gravely shaking his little finger backward and for- 
ward before his innocent childish countenance, when asked any 
thing from which he dissented, as solemnly as the oldest Moor in 
the Regency. 

The General Post Office here is a handsome, white marble build- 
ing, classical and simple. The Patent Ollice is to the north of it, 

* Since the letters were written this has taken place. 



TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



and is a very noble structure. The Treasury is splendid, and has a 
colonnade of extraordinarily great length and beauty. The Presi- 
dent's mansion, usually called the " White House," is of ample 
size, and of simple architecture ; it has altogether a noble effect : 
quiet lawns surround it, and some fine trees are grouped near : it 
is said to be not at all in a healthy situation. 

We have just paid a visit by appointment to the hero-President. 
Madame C kindly took us there. I was much pleased at be- 
ing allowed to take V : she may never have another opportunity 

of being presented to a President of the United States. She was 
delighted at going. 

General Taylor received us most kindly. He had had two coun- 
cils to preside over that morning, and when we first arrived at the 
White House, he was actually engaged in an extra Session of 
Council — in short, overwhelmed with business, which rendered it 
doubly kind and amiable of him to receive us. Mrs. Bliss, the 
charming daughter of the President, was in the drawing-room when 
we first went in. Mrs. Taylor has delicate health, and does not 
do the honors of the Presidential mansion. Mrs. Bliss received us 
most cordially and courteously, saying her father would come as 
soon as his presence could be dispensed with. Presently after, the 
President made his appearance : his manners are winniugly frank, 
simple, and kind, and though characteristically distinguished by 
much straightforwardness, there is not the slightest roughness in his 
address. There was a quick, keen, eagle-like expression in the eye 
which reminded me a little of the Duke of Wellington's. 

He commenced an animated conversation with Madame C. de 

la B and us ; among other things, speaking of the routes, he 

recommended me to follow, steam navigation, Mexico, and the Rio 
Grande, &c. 

He was so exceedingly good-natured as to talk a great deal to 
my little girl about roses and lilies, as if he had been quite a 
botanist all his life. This species of the slight, childish, dafTydown- 
dilly talk was so particularly and amiably considerate and kind to 
her, that it overcame her shyness at once, and the dread she had 
entertained of not understanding what he might say to her. 

I was quite sorry when the time came for us to leave the White 
House. General Taylor strongly advised me not to leave America 
without seeing St. Louis : he said he considered it altogether per- 
haps the most interesting town in the United States : he said he 
recollected the greater part of it a deep dense forest. He spoke 
very kindly of England, and adverting to the approaclring acceler- 



VISIT TO GENERAL TAYLOR. 87 

ation and extension of steam communication between her and 
America (the contemplated competition about to be estabUshed by 
" CoUins'sline") he exclaimed, " The voyage will be made shorter 
and shorter, and I expect England and America will soon be quite 
alongside of each other, ma'am." 

" The sooner the better, sir," I most heartily responded, at 
which he bowed and smiled. 

"We are the same people," he continued, "and it is good for 
both to see more of each other." 

" Yes," I replied, " and thus all detestable old prejudices will 
die away." 

" I hope so," he said : " it will be for the advantage of both." 

He continued in this strain and spoke so nobly of England, that 
it made one's heart bound to hear him. And he evidently felt 
what he said ; indeed, I am sure that honest, high-hearted, true-as- 
steel, old hero could not say any thing he did not feel or think. 

A little while before we took leave he said, " I hope you will 
visit my farm near Natchez : Cypress Grove is the name — a sad 
name," lie said, with a smile, "but I think you will find it inter- 
esting." I thanked him, and promised so to do. A short time 
previously, after talking about the beauties of Nature in the South, 

General Taylor had said to V , that he longed to return to 

that farm, and to his quiet home near the banks of the Mississippi, 
and added, that he was sorely tired of public life, and the harassing 
responsibilities of his high office. The President insisted most 
courteously on conducting us to our carriage, and bareheaded he 
handed us in, standing on the steps till we drove oR] and cordially 
reiterating many kind and friendly wishes for our prosperous jour- 
ney, and health, and safety. 

We afterward went to Madame C 's, and staid some time 

in her pleasant house. She kindly wishes me to go to a party at 
her house to-night, but the sudden hot weather has given me a 
headache, and I fear I shall not be able. It is the Indian Sum- 
mer here, now, which answers to the French " Ete de St. Martin," 
only it is twenty times as hot. The spacious high rooms in the 
White House felt quite oppressively Avarm, and here we are suffo- 
cated with heat, though the drawing-roorti is a large apartment. 
I think it is like a July in England, when our summer has not 
" set in with its usual severity." Fans and parasols are plentiful ; 
and there are no fires except the apparently indispensable ones 
which are lit, it would almost seem, for the benefit of the very 
numerous fire-companies here and elsewhere in the Union. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Discomforts of Traveling over the Alle<Thaiues — JTr. Clay — rittsburgj as 
sable as ShetHcld — Its Population — Visit to a Glass Factory and Iron 
Foundry — A dinfvy Vehicle — Factories and Foundries in Pittsburg — The 
Ohio — The new Suspension Bridge at Wheeling — Accidents to Steamers 
caused by it — Courtesy of the Captains and Clerks of Steamers — Cincin- 
nati — German and Irish Immigrants compared — Verses addressed to 
Emigrants. 

We had a very cold journey to Louisville over the Alleghanies, 
but a safe one, which is, I find, matter of congratulation. 

I think it was the day before we started from Cumberland, Mr. 
Clay was overturned on those rough roads : most fortunately; he 
was not injured. Another carriage that started about the same 
time we did, was detained a very long time ; and the passengers 
had to walk a long way. I am not, in general, fond of walking, 
but should particularly hate such compulsory pedestrianism. 

One can not wonder at accidents in crossing these mountains, 
for the drivers appear to be frequently intoxicated, and are rough 
and reckless, cruel to their horses, by over-urging them, and cruel 
to their passengers, driving often full gallop over the A\-orst part of 
abominable roads, to the almost dislocation of their limbs and the 
bumping and thumping of their unfortunate heads against the 
hard roof of the vehicle. If there be any truth in phrenology, 
what changes in character must be wrought during a journey 
across the Alleghanies ! The morose cynic may come out sweet 
as syrup ; the humble with an ambition, that will be already 
practiced in " overvaulting itself" and tumbling on the other side I 
A rensylvanian Quaker might be shaken out of all his trembling 
sectarianism, or a French novel-writer tossed into a demure Broad- 
brim. I can answer for our tempers being very materially changed. 

I am particularly sorry to miss seeing Mr. Clay, for whom I had 
a letter of introduction from Mr. : it is the only disappoint- 
ment I have yet had in America. He crossed the Alleghanies for 
Washington in good time to avoid bad roads and bad weather. 
The first he certainly did not. 

We stopped at Pittsburg on our way hither at an excellent 
hotel called the Monongahela House. At Pittsburg we went to 
sec some manufactories, and iron foundries, in a sort of coal-scuttle 
on wheels. No mourning coach was ever so thoroughly black, 



riTTSBURG. S9 



methiiiks, inwardly and outwardly ; and, that we might be in 
keeping with our vehicle, we found it obligingly undertook (with- 
out any outlay or trouble on our part) to put us ail into decent 
mourning. 

Pittsburg has as sable a complexion as Sheffield. It is situated 
at the confluence of the Monongahela and the Alleghany (the lat- 
ter name, I believe, means "clear water"), which by their union 
form the noble Ohio. These two rivers, together, avail not to 
cleanse the sooty Pittsburg ; if they did, as Coleridge said of the 
Rhine at Cologne, nothing could ever wash them clean again 
(though it has iiot the hundred and seventy-two distinct " manvaiscs 
odcurs" of that city). Nevertheless, in spite of its brunette color- 
ing, it is a handsome town. With its suburbs, it contains about 
seventy-five thousand inhabitants ; some say a hundred thousand. 

A great number of Germans are settled at Pittsburg. In one 
manufactory (a glass one) we heard hardly any language but Ger- 
man spoken. An American in that manufactory looked rather 
reproachfully at us, with a glassy eye — or an eye to the glass — 
and said, we English were underselling them in articles of this 
material. I bore the "brittle" impeachment as well as I could; 
this glass was slippery ground, and I was fain to slide ofi'it. 

In the place we next went to, M'ithout meaning to insinuate any 
thing to the prejudice of Pittsburg, which is a well-principled and 
orthodox city, I doubt not, it really appeared to me they had deal- 
ings in the black art — (I must beg to disclaim any allusion to the 
half-mourning tints which seem the fashion here) — so wondrous 
was the rapidity of the processes, and the way in which the work- 
men appeared to be snowballing one another with huge lumps and 
blocks of red-hot iron. The noise was very great, and the glare ; 
but in the midst of the confusion a woman stood with a mite of a 
baby in her arms, an infant Cyclops, or young Vulcan himself in 
bib and tucker — to judge by the coolness with which it surveyed 
the scene and listened to the noise, as if the whole were got up ibr 
its especial edification, and it would like much to have all those 
pretty playthings that were being tossed about on all sides. 

It was late, and our "coal-scuttle" stopped the way, so we de 
parted, still leaving the little Vulcan evidently deeply engaged in 
teaching his own young idea how to shoot, or to toss those nice 
balls of red hot iron, which he Avould also have liked uncommonly 
to stuH' into his mouth, big as they were. We stepped most gin- 
gerly into our jetty coach ; but in vain did we try to escape being 
made finished chimney-sweepers. Methinks it must have served 



90 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

a subterraneous apprenticeship in some coal-mine as a lowly wagon 
for the conveyance of that article, before it was promoted to its 
present office above-ground — the reverse of the fate of mortals. 
The driver was hopelessly black, having the features, however, of 
a white man, and the brogue of the Green Erin. He affected to 
guard our dresses from the wheel as we ascended, which delicate 
attention was but a refinement of barbarity, adding insult to injury. 
We met a number of similarly sable coaches, but 1 think ours bore 
the bcUc. 

There are twenty-five furnaces, and five forges and rolling-mills 
in Pittsburg, besides which, there are woolen and cotton factories, 
machine shops, tanneries, and hardware, cutlery, and several 
other manufactories in abundance. The city is lighted by gas, 
which is produced by the bituminous coal that fills the hills Avhich 
surround Pittsburgh. Most of the extensive manufactories are not 
171 the city, but are distributed over a circle of about five miles' 
radius from the Court House, which stands on Grant's Hill. One 
of the suburbs of Pittsburg is called Birmingham. 

The Ohio quite exceeded my expectations : the river and the 
scenery are both beautiful. We came, under a splendid new sus- 
pension bridge at Wheeling, which is however, a bone of conten- 
tion just now between various parties. It seems, the bridge is not 
high enough for some of the lofty funnels of the steamei's, and 
several of these have had some very hard knocks. There are great 
complaints in consequence ; and the poor captains of these crippled 
boats seem, to judge by the nevv'spapers, to take their disfigurement 
and discomfiture quite to heart. Captain This has felt himself 
grievously wouiuled through the knock-down blows dealt at the 
splendid steamer " Explosion," by the bridge aforesaid ; and Cap- 
tain That thinks he will never entirely recover — indeed, will carry 
sympathetically to the end of his days the marks left on his beauti- 
ful steamer, the " Racer." 

It' there is any safety in new steamers, we need not just now be 
afraid of boilers bursting, or any such foreseen accidents, on these 
rivers ; for, since this new and destruction-dealing bridge has been 
built, it is extraordinary how every steamer on the river, accord- 
ing to the complainants' statements (save those with low funnels) 
seems equally " new," "splendid," and just "come out." It must 
be prov^oking, it is true, to be knocked on the head — of your steam- 
er, and to be forced to cut her down yourself without mercy. That 
bridge, in short, proves a " bridge of sighs" to the navigators of the 
Ohio. As for our boat, being of moderate proportions, she did not 



GERMAN AND IRISH IMMIGRANTS. 91 

receive the slightest contusion on lier crown. She was, (though 
not holding her head as high as some) an extremely fine and com- 
Ibr table vessel. 

The captains of these steamers appear universally a most gentle- 
man-like set of persons, and the clerks are always as civil and 
obliging as possible. The other day, having heard one particular 
steamer was the best, I sent to take places in it : all was arranged 
and paid, but the person who had taken the tickets had mistaken 
a rival boat for the one specified. When I found out this misun- 
derstanding, which was not till we went down to the wharf to 
embark, I went to the clei'k (not liking the appearance of this 
boat so much as that of the opposition one to which we had been 
recommended) and informed him of the error that had been 
committed, and asked if we might be allowed to change. He 
most courteously complied, and returned the money. In the 
hurry of departure, I did not do what I 7ioxo feel sorry I did 
not — return such civility by going by the smaller boat, after all ; 
for such obliging conduct deserves to meet with reciprocal com- 
plaisance. 

We only stopped a day at Cincinnati, for the hotels were all 
crowded, which made it extremely uncomfortable. The " Queen 
City of the West," is built on the north bank of the Ohio. It has 
floating wharves, which are rendered necessary by the continual 
and rapid fluctuations of the river. It is a very handsome city, 
and in a remarkably fine situation. In 1840, the population was 
46,338 ; and now it is estimated at about 1 10,000. I asked them, 
at Pittsburg, and other places, how they liked the German immi- 
grants. You almost invariably receive the same reply to this ques- 
tion : — "Very much. They are the best immigrants possible: 
industrious, generally sober and quiet — not quarrelsome like the 
Irish." Then they added — " but we could not do without the 
Irish. They build all our railroads, make our roads, canals, and. 
do all the hardest work in the country." 

"Wanderers ! who come from many a distant zone, 
To gaze on Nature's Transatlantic throne ; — 
Wanderers! — whose I'eet like mine ne'er trod before. 
This proud, magnificently-various shore; 
Ne'er lightly view the thousand scenes sublime 
Ol' great America's resplendent clime; 
But still, in thoughtful mood's observant care 
Weigh well the many-mingling glories there 
Since all the loftier wonders of the land 
Are most admired, when best ye understand. 



92 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



'Tis a glaJ, gracious study for the soul, 
As part by part the Heaven-stamped leaves unroll, 
To watch the crowing triumphs still expand, 
The will, the wisdom live along the land ! 

Not only all-majestic Nature here 
Speaks to each kindling thought, but far and near 
A large and mighty meaning seems to lurk, 
A glorious mind is every where at work ! — 
A bold, grand spirit rules and reigns around, 
And sanctifies the common air and ground ; 
And glorifies the lowliest herb and stone 
With conscious tints and touches of its own; — 
A spirit ever flashing back the sun, 
That scorns each prize while aught is to be won ; — 
More boundless than the prairie's wondrous sweep. 
Or the old Atlantic's long-resounding deep; — 
And more luxuriant than the forest's crowd 
Of patriarch trees, by weightiest foliage bowed ; — 
More rich than California's teeming mould. 
Whose hoarded sunbeams laugh to living gold; — 
More soaring far than the immemorial hills, 
More fresh and flowing than their streams and rills. 
That mind of quenchless energy and power 
Which springs from strength to strength, hour after hour; 
Man's glorious mind in its most glorious mood, — 
That seems for aye, on every side to brood 
In this empurpled and exultant land 
So gladly bowed beneath its bright command. 
Man's sovereign mind in its most sovereign march, 
Embracing earth, like light's own rainbowed arch. 

That soul — that mind, 'tis every where revealed, — 
It crowns the steep, it gilds the cultured field. 
Bids science, art, and studious knowledge aid, 
Till all hath heard its voice, and all obeyed. 
It charms the waste, and paves the rushing stream, 
And scarce allows the sun a vagrant beam; 
The obsequious lightning to its service trains. 
And bids the elements to wear its chains. 
It tames the ragged soil of rocks, and flings 
From seas to seas the shadow of its wings ; 
And Time and Space in that great shadow rest, 
And watch to serve their ruler-sons' behest; 
And still its growing, gathering influence spreads, 
And still abroad its own great life it sheds 
O'er mount and lake, o'er cataract, field and flood — ■ 
O'er rock, and cave, and isle, o'er plain and wood : 
It lives, it lightens, and its might inspires 
Each separate scene with fresh creative fires. 
Where'er it moves a wondering world awaices, 
And fast all nature's form its likeness takes; 

It quickening thrills, and kindles and pervades 

Her startled deserts and receding shades, 



DESCRIPTION OF LOUISVILLE. 93 

Her mightiest solitudes and paths unknown, 

Her deep-vailed shrines, and well-springs pure and lone. 

America's great Mind, the true New World, 

Launched like the sun, 'gainst th' elder darkness hurled ; 

Hung, as The Heavens are hung, above them all, 

And holding their subliraest powers in thrall ! 

It must be confessed that Cincinnati, the pride of the banks of 
" La belle Riviere," is in fact what its nickname, " Porkopolis," 
implies — the Empire City of Pigs, as well as of the West ; but it 
is fortunate that they condescendingly allow human beings to share 
that truly magnificent location with them. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Description of Louisville — Its Trade and Natural Productions — Its Soil and 
Rivers — The Kentucky Caves — A Visit to one — Its Avenues, Domes, 
Cataracts, Pits, and Rivers — A Sea in it — The vociferous Bats — Echoes 
of the Cave — iThe Cave once the Residence of consumptive Patients — 
The eyeless Fish — The narrow Path and the fat Englishman — Vast 
Extent of the Cave — Verses suggested by it. 

We have had a very interesting expedition to the Mammoth 
Cave of Kentucky. But, first, a word of Louisville itself 

It is a fine city, and the best lighted, I think, that I have seen 
in the United States. I imagine the Louisvillians are proud of 
this, as they have their diligences start at four o'clock in the win- 
ter's morning ! It is the chief commercial city of Kentucky, and 
lies on the south bank of the Ohio. The canal from Portland en- 
ables large steamers to come to the wharves. An extensive trade 
is carried on here, and there are manufactories of various descrip- 
tions, the facilities ofiered by the enormous water-power of the 
region assisting greatly in the development of this department of 
industry. There are numerous factories, foundries, woolen and 
cotton mills, flour-mills, &c. The population is about forty-seven 
thousand : in 1800, it was only six hundred. Kentucky is a very 
prosperous state. 

The natural growths of the soil are — the black cherry, black 
walnut, chestiuit, honey-locust, buck-eye, pawpaw, mulberry, sugar- 
maple, ash, elm, white-thorn, cotton- wood, and abundance of grape- 
vines, and various others. Part of the country we traversed in 



94 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

going to " The Cave," is called the " Barrens ;" other portions looked 
very fertile, and reminded me exceedingly of England. " The 
Barrens," were bestowed some time ago gratuitously on actual 
settlers, as the Legislature of the State were under the erroneous 
impression that the tract was of litt-le value ; but it proved to be 
remarkably good grain land, and particularly M'ell adapted to graz- 
ing and the successful rearing of cattle. 

Below the mountains, the whole of Kentucky, it appears, rests 
on an enormous bed of limestone, generally about eight liiet beneath 
the surface. Every where in this formation are found apertures, 
which they denominate " Sink-holes." Through these the flowmg 
waters of the rivers disappear into the earth. Several of these 
were pointed out to us on our journey. Owing to this the waters 
in Kentucky are more impoverished and diminished during the hot 
and dry season, than those of any other portion of the United States, 
and the lesser streams vanish entirely. 

The banks of the rivers are quite natural cixriosities. Very pro- 
found channels are usually worn in the calcareous rock which they 
pass over in their course. The Kentucky River especially is said 
to have sublime precipices of great height, on either side, consist- 
ing of almost perpendicular banks of solid limestone. 

There are several huge caves between Green and Cumberland 
rivers ; but the one we went to see is the largest. The size of 
it may be guessed when I inform the reader that we walked in it 
the first day eight miles, four in and four out ; and the second 
fourteen, seven in and seven out, hardly traversing any of the same 
ground, except just at the beginning. In fact, this marvelous cave 
is a little subterranean state in itself, that might almost claim to be 
admitted separately into the Union, if it had any population besides 
mummies and bats (and, alas I the former have disappeared, to 
our regret). 

The cave contains, it is said, two hundred and twenty-six ave- 
nues I It has, besides, forty-seven domes, eight cataracts, twenty- 
three pits, and several rivers — one, the River Styx — and, I believe, 
a small sea, the Dead Sea. The Echo River (called so from its 
possessing a very remarkable and powerful echo) is wide enough 
and deep enough to float the largest steamer. The great dome is 
four hundred feet high. In 1813, two Indian mummies were found 
here, wrapped in highly-ornamented deerskins ; so that it is evi- 
dent, though the white men have only of late years discovered this 
gigantic cavern, the red warriors knew of it in days of yore. There 
was a great deal of saltpetre found in this cave, and the remains 



MAMMOTH CAVE. 95 



of the furnaces, and large mounds of ashes, are still to be seen near 
the entrance. 

In one of the most beautiful chambers we saw in the interior of 
this vast underground Palace of Nature, the roof appeared to repre- 
sent a firmament of stars I A comet, with its train of light, seemed 
sparkling in the distance. And in another place, the appearance 
of the roof was that of an "inverted llower-garden" (as Professor 

, at Washington, happily called it, in describing the wonders 

of this under-world to me). The bats, which are "located" near 
the mouth of the cave (where, spacious an area as it is, there are 
excellent lodgings for man and bat — if any of the former are tired 
of this very superficial earth), are the noisiest little rascals I ever 
met with. Jabbering like monkeys, chattering like magpies, they 
appear to repudiate all connection with their humble, quiet little 
cousins, the mice. They made such a din when we entered their 
chosen precincts, that it seemed as if they were hissing us ofl' the 
subterranean stage on which we were making our debut, rather 
agitated at our novel position ; or perhaps they were intending 
those suspicious sounds for cheers — nine times nine, and one cheer 
more — and the Kentish (or, rather, the Kentuckyish) fire, at our 
entry. 

Without caring to silence this bat-tery, we proceeded, and soon 
invaded the haunts of old Silence herself Ours being almost 
entirely a female party, it will readily be imagined, we did little 
to disturb the stillness of the place I One English and one Ameri- 
can gentleman, however, were also there ; and I can not answer 
equally for them, especially the latter, who, however, did the honors 
of the cave most admirably. He knew every nook of it, brought 
out the echoes splendidly, with " The Arkansas Hunters," " Uncle 
Ned," "OI Susanna," and other far-famed works of the great 
masters, finishing with " Yankee-doodle," and repeated some really 
very fine and striking lines, author unknown. There is a magnifi- 
cent natural church in the cave ; and here divine service has been 
performed, we were assured. Of course, we had a great number 
of torches, or rather lamps with us. Bengal lights are sometimes 
used here, but we had not given due warning, and none were to 
be procured. 

Some of the sadder things to be seen in this gloomy stronghold 
of Nature, are the remains of a number of small ruined houses, 
erected within the cave for consumptive patients, the constantly 
equable temperature of this solemn place being considered as of 
great efficacy in restoring them to health. This idea is, however, 



96 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

I should imagine, almost abandoned, if we may judge by the dilapi- 
dated structures before alluded to ; indeed, we understand that the 
depressing effect on the spirits of the sufferers tended greatly to 
counteract the beneficial influence of the unvarying and mild tem- 
perature. They were obliged to remove these melancholy habita- 
tions to some distance from each other, as they found the constant 
sound of the hollow cough reverberating through the vaulted gal- 
leries irritated the nerves, and afiected the spirits of the invalids 
grievously. I can not imagine it doing any good in a single in- 
stance ; yet it is said some apparent cures were performed ; but on 
returning to the upper earth and the cheerfulness of day, the symp- 
toms of the disorder immediately returned, and, therefore, the only 
hope of continued existence was in renouncing all its delights and 
charms ; in perpetuating this most dreary exile, in living as much 
like the dead as possible, and in anticipating and rehearsing, as it 
were, the loneliness, the gloom, the silence of the grave. These 
ruined tenements made me shudder ; sepulchres of the living as they 
must have been. 

Even for the short time I was in the cave T felt a strange op- 
pression, and a longing for the sun and the free fresh air again, that 
was almost painful. Notwithstanding this, you can undergo much 
greater fatigue in the cave than outside — owing, I was told, to the 
remarkable elasticity of the air there ; but walking so long, and 
over such frightfully-rugged ground made me very thirsty. Some 
of the springs were of delicious water, but one that we drank of 
was like sulphur : we should have thought it horrible under other 
circumstances, bat were so suffering from drought, that we found 
it then and there exquisite. 

One of the most singular curiosities of this stupendous cave, are 
the eyeless fish that are found in one of the rivers : they are not 
only destitute of eyes, but have not the faintest, slightest rudiments 
of the organ, or place for it ; the skull is perfectly smooth. I had 

heard these fish much talked of by Professors A and G 

at Cambridge, and was anxious to see one ; there were some 
swimming about in the river, but I could not thus examine their 
peculiarities satisfactorily ; subsequently, I got a preserved one in 
spirits. They are to be purchased of the guides. 

There is in the cave an extraordinarily narrow path, between 
immense rocks, through which a human being can with difficulty 
force his way. The American gentleman I have alluded to before 
gave an amusing account of a fat Englishman accomplishing this 
feat, and emerging on the other side, all sorts of shapes — a kind of 



MAMJNIOTH CAVE. 97 



Proteus, exhibiting at one and the same time, a pleasing variety 
of appearances. One arm jammed into his side, one cheek alarm- 
ingly flattened, and the other, by the contrast, apparently pufled 
out preposterously, as if the material of the one had been squeezed 
into the other. By all accounts he must have looked something 
like a huge pillow, of which the feathers had been displaced in 
one part, and huddled up in another, which, in short, had shifted 
its cargo of do"wn ! and that required shaking and putting to rights. 
By degrees the metamorphosis ceased, and he shortly regained his 
na.tural shape, but then the poor wretch had to endure a second 
martyrdom ! I know not the end of his history, perhaps he staid 
on the other side for a while, practiced abstemiousness, and went 
into training, and so came out of the cave a " lean and slippered 
pantaloon," having gone in like a Fahtaff. This " Winding 
Way" is popularly known as " The Fat Man's Misery." 

It is the tall man's also, for even women have here and there 
to bend almost double. One longed to w^alk with one's head 
under one's arm, in imitation of some of the gentry who figure in 
ghost stories. I suffered several times from a severe concussion of 
my bonnet, and only narrowly escaped a compound fracture of the 
comb. 

As to the cave altogether, it is magnificent — that is, what we 
saw of it ; for many parts of it we did not see at all, which are 
already explored, and it is said people may go on exploring for 
three hundred miles or more ; I should be sorry to try the experi- 
ment. After this under-ground jaunt — after this sort of temporary 
burial, I think one almost requires a dozen or so of balloon-ascen- 
sions to restore the equilibrium of one's feelings, and take away 
the subterraneousness of one's sensations, and ungrovelize one's self; 
— in short, to carry off a little of the superabundant earthliness 
that one feels has been acquired by Avalking below ground, where 
should be nothing but graves and gas-pipes, and cellars and worms, 
and Guy Fawkeses, and sorcerers, and mummies, and trains of 
gunpowder, and fossil Ichthyosauruses. 

Stalactites and stalagmites are beautiful and interesting, but 
they seem to me to have a sort of magnetism of petrifaction about 
them, and to inoculate one with ossification. Glad was I when 
we wended our way from these mighty vaults, with their imita- 
tion stars and hobgoblin roses : we had to pass again by the same 
great Hall by which we entered, under the living leathern canopy 
of the imminent bats which almost grazed or stuck to our much- 
enduring bonnets as we passed — so low was the roof in some places. 

E 



TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



THE MAMMOTH CAVE IN KENTUCKY. 

And have a thousand burning worlds on high, 

And tens of thousands marshaled in the sky, 

Scattering their splendor o'er Heaven's boundless plain 

Besieged thy gates for ages — and in vain '? 

Never the gentle Pleiad here hath gazed ; 

Not here hath ever flashing comet blazed , 

Nor keenest lightning sent one arrowy ray, 

'Midst these dread strongholds ol" the night to play, 

Nor here the artillery of the thunder even 

E'er woke one echo of the Voice of Heaven. 

Stars from their spheres have shot — but hero unmissed, 
Of them this frowning under-world ne'er wist. 
Still of the sun unseen, there lives a sign, 
His warmth comes even to this sepulchral shrine. 
Yet by no change seems the awful gloom beguiled, 
Here rain nor rainbow ever wept nor smiled. 
Yet oh ! the hanging gardens glittering there 
Where sunshine laughs not, and no dews appeax ; 
And not a butterfly pursues its flight, 
Giving and gaining hues more freshly bright. 

Behold the inverted beds of sumptuous flowers, — 
That wealth of stony blooms, and frozen bowers. 
Those spectral buds, those sparry branches drear, 
That pomp of floral petrifactions there, 
Those ghostly wreaths — those braids of shadowy leaves, 
Which Nature, as in stern self-mockery, weaves, 
Roses and sunflowers ; tulips rich, and bells 
Of sumptuous lilies, where no sweetness dwells; 
And sculptured irises, and dahlias pale. 
Unknown to spring's bright ray, or autumn's gale, 
All in a deadly beauty coldly clad, 
A funeral pomp, bewilderingly sad. 

How sweet — how exquisite compared with these, 
The lowliest hedge-flower, touched by dew and breeze ! 
How dear, compared with such stark frigid shows. 
The wan and withered ruins of a rose. 
That once has looked on day's bright star, and grown 
Something that seemed a stray smile of his own 
True, 'tis most beautiful, most wondrous too, 
This tranced — this spell-bound nature, calm and new ; 
But yet this mockery of earth's heaven-born things. 
Though fair, though glorious, but despondence brings. 
'Tis like Death's palace with his cold white show, 
Of all that most should smile with life's fresh glow. 

For me, I long to leave these precincts drear, 
Shun this cold ghost of Nature reigning here, 
(So fixed, so fate-like, life and motion seem 
Near this, the fleeting fictions of a dream). 
And once again the glad Creation hail, 
That tells with thousand tonffues the eternal talc. 



COiNVERSATION IN A COACH. 99 

Give back the world ! the changeful hues and forms, 

The hurrying shadows of its very storms. 

Oh! for a mountain-scene to lift me now 

On high; as 'twere to climb near Heaven's sweet brow; 

Give me those scenes, fresh, moving, breathing, free, 

Where even midst gloom, a thousand glories be. 

And sound, ye clarion-tones of winds, which make 

The stately forests to their centres shake ! 

Give even the quivering darkness of that Night, 

Which heaves and hovers as 'twere taking flight ! 

And give the change of seasons and of hours, 

The strife of elements, the shock of powers ! 

And life-like shiftings, and awakening signs. 

True, quickening tones from Nature's thousand shrines. 

Give me, for these cold vaults, and these bare halls, 
The glistening smile of streams — the roar of falls ; 
The startling wonders of the restless deep, 
The towering headland, and the cloud-capped steep; 
Glaciers for stalactites, keen moons for spars. 
For these dull gauds Heaven's galaxies of stars ; 
Nay, humbler be the yearning, less the prayer. 
Give any scene of outward Nature fair. 
For th' awful mysteries of this solemn cave, 
Give but a breath, a cloud, a flower, a wave ; 
For 'all the dreadful splendors that it boasts. 
One mirrored ray from yonder starry hosts ! 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

A Conveirsation in a Coach — A loquacious Gentleman — The other Passenger 
— His Appearance — ^^An American Argument touching the Potency of 
Money to make a Gentleman — An Exhibition of genuine Feeling — A 
Kentuckian's Notion of England — The slight Value set on human Life 
in America — The Duel — Pigs paramount in Louisville — Herds of Swine 
on the Alleghanies — The Hotel-Keeper and the Kentucky Cave — Danger 
attending a Visit to the Caves. 

I CAN not refrain from giving a conversation which I heard as 
we came by the coach to Louisville. One of the speakers was a 
very agreeable and apparently M'ell-informed gentleman, who seem- 
ed to have seen a great deal of the world. When he first entered 
the " stage," it would seem it was with the benignant intention 
of giving Q. sort oi c(y)iversazio7ie in the coach, in which after a few 
preliminary interrogatories to the various passengers (as if to take 
the size and measure of their capacities), he sustained all the 
active part, not calling upon them for the slightest exercise of theii 



100 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

conversational powers. He varied the entertainment occasionally 
by soliloquiziug and monopolyloguizing ; and ever and anon it ap- 
peared as it' he addressed the human race generally, or was speak- 
ing ior posterity in a very elevated tone indeed, and seemingly 
oblivious of that fraction of the contemporaneous generation who 
were then largely benefiting by his really most animated and 
amusing discourse — for he was thoroughly original and very shrewd 
and entertaining. 

Where had he not been ? What had he not seen 1 what not 
met, tried, suffered, sought, found, dared, done, won, lost, said? 
The last we could give the most implicit credence to, no matter 
how large the demand. Now he told us, or the ceiling of the 
coach, how he had been eighteen mouths in the Prairies (which 
keep very open house for all visitors), shooting herds of bulialoes, 
and with his cloak for his only castle, and all his household furni- 
ture, and how he had been all this time without bed or bread : 
and he described the longing for the last, much in the way Mr. 
E-uxton does in his account of Prairie excursions ; aird now — but 
I will not attempt to follow him in all his wondrous adventures. 

Suthce it to say, Eobinson Crusoe, placed in juxtaposition with 
him, was a mere tire-side stay-at-home sort of personage, one who 
had never left his own comfortable arm-chair, in comparison. In 
short, the adventures were marvelous and manifold, and all told in 
the same agreeable, lively, Scheherezade-like sort of a manner — so 
agreeable, indeed, that I am sure had Judge Lynch himself had 
any little account to settle with him, he would have postponed — 
a la Sultan of the Indies — any trifling beheading or strangling, or 
unpleasant little operation of tlie sort, to hear the end of the tale. 

After these narratives and amusing lectures had been poured 
forth continuously for a length of time, it chanced that a quiet 
countryman-like person got into the coach, bundle and stick in 
hand. After a few questions to the rustic Avayfarer, our eloquent 
orator left off his historic and other tales, and devoted himself to 
drawing out, and "squeezing the orange of the brains" of this ap- 
parently simple-minded and unlettered man. The discourse that 
ensued was a singular one — to take place, too, in the United States 
between Americans. 

The new-comer was a Keutuckian by birth, who had not very 
long ago gone to settle in Indiana. He called himself a mechanic 
— these tacts came out in answer to the queries put to him by our 
unwearied talker — but he had, as I have said, much more tho 
appearance of a respectable country farming man — and indeed, 



NOBLE-SPIRITED MECHANIC. 101 

I believe, mechanic means here, in a general sense, a laborer. He 
seemed, a line, honest-hearted, straight-forward, noble-spirited son 
of the plow ; and bis lofty, earnest, generous sentiments were spoken 
in somewhat unpolished but energetic and good language ; and 
what particularly struck me Avas a really beautiful and almost 
child-like simplicity of mind and manner, that was combined with 
the most uncompromising firmness and unflinching adherence in 
argument, to what he conceived to be right. 

His features were decidedly plain, but the countenance was very 
fine, chiefly characterized by great ingenuousness, commingled with 
gentleness and benevolence ; and yet bearing evident traces of 
strength, determination, and energetic resolution. It was rather 
a complicated countenance, so to say, notwithstanding its great 
openness and expression of downright truth and goodness. 

After opening the conversation with him, as you would an oyster, 
by the introduction of a pretty keen knife of inquisitorial questions, 
the chief .speaker began to hold ibrth, capriciously enough, on the 
essentials and distinguishing attributes of a gentleman. He de- 
clared, emphatically, that one qualiiication alone was necessary, 
and that money only mad-e a gentleman, according to the world, 
and, above all, in the United States (quite a mistake is this, I 
fully believe). " Let a man," said he, " be dressed here in every 
thing of the best, with splendid rings on his fingers, and plenty of 
money to spend at the ends of them, and he may go where he will, 
and be received as a gentleman ; ay, though he may be a gam- 
bler, a rogue, or a swindler, and you, now, you may be a good 
honest mechanic ; but lie will at once get into the best society iu 
these parts, which you would never dream even of attempting to 
accomplish — " 

" But he would not be a gentleman," broke in the Kentuckian, 
indignantly. " No, sir ; nor will I ever allow that money only 
makes the gentleman : it is the principle, sir, and the inner feel- 
ing, and the mind — and no fine clothes can ever make it ; and no 
rough ones unmake it, that's a fact. And, sir, there's many a bet- 
ter gentleman ibllowing the plow in these parts than there is among 
the richer classes : I mean those poor men who're contented witla 
their lot, and work hard and try no mean shifts and methods to 
get on and up in the world ; for there's little some "ill stick at to 
get at money; and such means a true gentleman (what /call a 
gentleman) will avoid like pison, and scorn utterly." 

" Now that's all very well for you to talk so here just now ; but 
you know yourself, I don't doubt, that your own object, as well as 



102 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

all the world's around you, is to make money. It is with that 
object that you work hard and save up : you do not work only to 
live, or make yourself more comfortable, but to get money : and 
money is the be-all and end-all of all and every body ; and that 
only commands consideration and respect." 

" That only, sir, would never command mine, and — " 

" Why, how you talk now ! if you meet a fine dressed-out gen- 
tleman in one of these stages, you look on him as one directly — you 
don't ask him did he make or take his money — what's that to 
you ? — there he is, and it is not for you to busy or bother yourself 
to find out all the private particulars of his history ; and if you 
find him, as I say, well dressed in superfine, and he acts the gen- 
tleman to you, he may be the greatest rogue in existence, but he 
will be treated by you like a gentleman — yes, even by you." 

" Yes, sir, that may be while I know nothing of him — while as 
you say, he acts the gentleman to me ; but let rae once find out 
what he is, and I would never show him respect more — no I though 
he had all the gold of California." 

" Ah, California ! just look at that now — look at people by 
scores and thousands, leaving their families, and friends, and 
homes — and what for but for gold ? people with a comfortable com- 
petence already ; but it's fine talking. Why, what are you taking 
this very journey for 1 — why, I can answer for you — for gold, I 
doubt not ; and every other action of your life is for that object : 
confess the real truth now." 

" I will, sir — I am come here from Indiana, for though I'm a 
Kentucky man, I live in the Hoosier State. I'm come here to see 
a dear brother ; and instead o{ gaiiiing money I'm spending it in 
these stages to get to see him and ' old Kentuck' agin. So you see 
sir, I love my brother — I do more than money, poor man as I am ; 
ay, and that I do too." 

" Well, I dare say you do ; but come now, just tell me — 
haven't you a little bit of a speculation, now, here, that you're come 
after, as well as your brother — some trifle of a speculation afoot ? 
You know you have now. You must have. Some horse, per- 
haps — " 

It was quite delightful to see and hear the indignant burst of 
eager denial which this elicited from the ingenuous Kentuckian. 

' No, sir ! no, I have 7iot — none whatever, indeed I have not :" 
his voice quivered with emotion ; the earnest expression of his 
countenance was more than eloquent. If his interrogator had ac- 
cused him of a serious crime he could hardly more anxiously and 



EXHIBITION OF FEELING. 103 

more earnestly have disclaimed it. To him, I thought the bare 
suspicion seemed like a coarse desecration of his real motives, a kind 
of undei'valuing even of his "dear brother," to suppose he must 
have had a "little speculation on hand" to make it worth his while 
to go to see him. 

He went on in an agitated, eager tone : 

" And look ye here ; I am leaving off my work and money- 
making for some days on purpose — only for that, and spending 
money at it, too!" 

His somewhat case-hardened antagonist looked the least in the 
world discomfited, for that angry denial was a magnificent burst, 
and uttered in a tone that actually seemed to give an additional jolt 
to the rough coach ; and I might say it had really a splendid the- 
atrical effect, but that I should hesitate to use that expression 
with reference to one of the most beautiful natural exhibitions of 
deep feeling and generous sentiment I ever witnessed. 

" Where are you going to? "at last inquired the other, apparently 
about to commence a little cross-examination. 

" About twenty miles beyond Munsfordville," replied Kentucky, 
in his simple, direct manner, " to — " I forget the name. 

" Why, you're come by the wrong stage, then," exclaimed the 
other, "you should have waited till to-morrow, and then taken the 
stage to , and then you would have gone direct." 

" Well, yes, sir ; it's true enough, sir ; but you see — in short, 
I couldn't loait — no, that I couldn't. I was so anxious, and J 
felt so like seeing my brother ; and I was in such a mortal hurry 
to get to him." 

" Hurry, man ! why how will you see him any sooner by this ? 
Why you might as well have walked up and down Main-street 
till to-morrow ; it would have advanced you just as much on your 
journey." 

" You're right, sir, I know that ; but I really cmdchi't wait : I 
wanted to feel I was going ahead, and getting 'nearer my brother 
at any rate ; I got so impatient- like. No, sir ; I couldn't have 
staid till the morning any how you could fix it." 

" You'll have to walk for your folly, for you'll get no conveyance 
this way, I tell you." 

" I'll have to walk the twenty miles to-night, I suppose," said 
Kentucky, with the most imperturbable smiling composure ; " but 
never mind that I I shall be getting near my brother, then. Ha," 
he said, after a pause, "you see I do love my brother, sir, and I 
don't regard trouble for him. I'll have to walk the twenty miles 



104 TRAVELS IS AMERICA. 

to-night with my bundle, I dare say, and spending money at that, 
too, perhaps, for a bit of food ; but I couldn't have united — no 1 
not another hour at Louisville — I felt so hke getting nearer to my 
brother." 

At the end of the argument about money-making being the all 
in all, one or two of us signified briefly that we thought Kentucky 
was right. You never saw any body so surprised. Pie had evi- 
dently entertained a deep conviction that all in the stage-coach 
were opposed to his opinions, and that he stood alone in his veiw 
on the matter, lie rephed he was glad any body thought as he 
did, and reiterated M'ith strong emphasis to his opponent : 

" I'm sure, sir, I'm right ; it is the principle, and the manners, 
and the mind, and not money that makes a gentleman. No, no ; 
money can never make half a one." 

I shall feel a respect for " old Kentucky" forever after for his 
sake. 

This high-hearted fellow-passenger of ours seemed to know very 
little of any country but his own. He discovered we were English, 
and c'Mclairaed — " That England may be a good country, but I 
could never bear to live under a king : a man's life must be miser- 
able there I I couldn't bear their laws neither." 

'•■ Why, they're pretty nearly the same as here." 

"You don't say sol" exclaimed the other, much astonished; 
for lie seemed, like many others, to haA'e an idea that we could 
not do any thing, or move from any place to another without the 
sovereign or the army giving leave, or, vice versa, and condescend- 
ino- to regvilate all our domestic aflairs. 

After that true " Nature's nobleman/' the Kentucky " me- 
chanic," had vanished from the scene, the same gentleman began 
talking to a neighbor in his loud, clear voice, on another subject — 
the little value set on human life in the United States. He said, 

" The other day, while I was at , two men had a quarrel," 

and he mentioned their names, which I do not accurately re- 
member, " the one told the other to meet him in the market-place, 
and to prepare his mind ; he did so, and a pistol also : the other 
had a six-shooter ; they fired, and neither fell. Then the one Avho 
had the revolver coolly put six bullets into his antagonist, and left 
him stone dead ; and this was in the market-place with numbers 
assembled, who formed round in a ring," said this gentleman, "to 
see the horrible spectacle, without one interfering to prevent it. 
One can not begin to imagine how indifferent the people here are 
to life in cencral." 



WHIMSICAL LANDLORD. 105 



The talkative gentleman told other anecdotes of the same 
nature, but one will be thought enough, I have no doubt, though 
it was interesting to hear them related, for he was a capital 
narrator, all life and spirit ; and one could not help paying amused 
attention, though, it must be confessed, his small talk was chiefly 
of murders, duels, executions, terrific fights with Indians, encoun- 
ters with grizzly bears and such small deer — in fact conducted on 
the principle of Madame Tussaud's "Chamber of Horrors;" a 
kind of verbal conversational Reign of Terror. 

I have already said what a very nice town Louisville is — city, 
I ought to say, for all large towns have that rank here : yet one 
thing a little detracts from its general appearance, and that is the 
preponderating population of pigs that in all directions perambu- 
late its handsome streets. I had observed this with surprise, and 
was amused at a corroborative paragraph in one of their papers 
here lately, saying that really the pigs are becoming masters of 
the place ; they push the two-legged citizens into the streets, 
occupying the side-walks, and taking the wall of them. So things 
begin to look serious here, and we are prepared any day for a 
'pronunciamiento of the pigs, they carry their snouts so high 
already, and seem so bristling with importance. 

In crossing the Alleghanies it was quite a curious sight to see 
armies of these animals driven along — a perfect stream of swine, 
rejoicing in all the fat of the land, certainly. It is said to be a 
wonderful spectacle to see them slaughtered, and almost as magic- 
ally turned into lard and lard-oil, as if the latter article had been 
ordered for Aladdin's lamp by his first genie gentleman-in-waiting 
and equerrj'. 

I must not forget to speak of a rather whimsical but thoroughly 
obliging, hospitable, and, I believe, excellent old gentleman, at 
whose hotel we were staying on our way to and from the Mam- 
moth Cave. Singularly enough, he has lived for nearly half a 
century within a few miles of the cavern, but never has visited it. 
" Time enough," he growled, in a voice that might have sounded 
from the subterranean depths of the cave itself, and would have 
rumbled at Echo River, like a discharge of Satanic artillery, 
" Time enough to go under ground when I'm dead ;" and "we 
almost agreed with him, after -we had all gone a-caving, and come 
back feeling so subterraneanically sepulchral, and with such a 
dreary antediluvian fossil-like sensation, perfectly convinced of the 
hoUowness of the world in general, and of Kentucky in particular. 
Indeed, we rather envied Mr. Bell his superficial views and his 

K* 



106 TRAVELS IN AMERICA, 

never having been buried alive, or trodden underfoot by half a 
quarter of the inhabitants of the State. 

One of his female slaves told me, ladies return sometimes from 
their cave expedition half dead, and keep their beds for " a many 
days," and occasionally have received severe injuries from stum- 
bling on the rugged sharp-pointed rocks. This negress was one 
of the most good-natured beings I ever met with : she voluntarily 
undertook the task of rubbing off from some of our clothes the dust 
of the cave : she scrubbed away with such zeal that soon her arms 
became a sort of faint cream color, and her thick crop of wool was 
so densely powdered as to assume the same tint, together with her 
smiling gentle face. She appeared to compassionate us profoundly ; 
and, perhaps, imagining, in consequence of her master's prejudices 
against that mighty cave, that no one of their own free will would 
visit such a dreadful place (to come back in such a fearful plight), 
she appeared to entertain an opinion that travelers in general 
had to go through this ordeal ; and, peradventure, were thus nat- 
uralized and made real children of the soil, after carrying so much 
of it away about their persons and habiliments. The claim would 
be well grounded, at any rate. 

Mr. B , the English gentleman who visited the cave at 

the same time we did, has just arrived here : he called a little 
while ago and told me that a poor young lady, who was very ill 
at the Cave Hotel while we were there, died the day before he 
came away. She had caught cold in coming out of the cave only 
a few days before, after being much overheated by walking there, 
and neglecting to put on a shawl : inflammation came on, and she 
had thus fallen a victim to this slight imprudence. 



GHAPTER XIX. 

The Steamer from Louisville — The Passengers — The Lady in the Turban, 
and her refractory Charges — A Family of another Description — The 
Liliputian Listen and his Model Grandmamma — The Sonnambula of a 
Stewardess — St. Louis — Ravages of the Cholera in that City — Rapid 
Growth of St. Louis — Vast Number of German Immigrants — Progress of 
American Civilization — Prairie Hunting — Frequency of Steamboat Acci- 
dents on the Mississippi. 

We left Louisville in a steamer with rather indifferent accom- 
modations, but commanded by a most obliging and courteous cap- 
tain. There were several families on board, who were removing 
to remote parts of the Union ; slaves, children, chattels, cattle, ac- 
companied them ; they were, in short, domestic Atlases carrying 
their own little world on their shoulders — farther ivest of course — 
which is quite the way of the world hereabouts. 

This was one of the very roughest sets I had ever been among. 
They lived entirely with the first-class passengers, so no doubt 
they had paid first-class price. Some were from the heart of old 
Kentucky, and none of them were emigrants ; they all comported 
themselves very quietly and well, except one family of children, 
belonging to some hard-working back- woodsman, to judge from ap- 
pearances. They were awfully spoilt, and led their parents mis- 
erable lives ; scratching and beating their mother, and boxing the 
ears and kicking the shins of their (little) respected papa, and 
knocking cruelly about the only person in the family who had the 
sense to control the imps a little, in the shape of a gaunt tall 
grandmamma, resembling a retired grenadier, " in" a turban, with 
a short pipe — the last evidently the consolation of her soul, and 
the former ingeniously constructed of some light-colored hand- 
kerchief, or handkerchiefs, and apparently built upon her head 
by her own hands, in a fantastic fashion, having a little appear- 
ance of a fortification for defensive purposes, which was rendered 
necessary by the violent attacks of the undutiful brats before 
alluded to. Had it not been erected Math considerable engineering 
skill, this poor rustic Cybele with her tower-like turban would 
have been left defenseless and bareheaded by these little furies. 

She was wont to confide to me her troubles on this head — enough 
to have turned he)- head and turban too, besides other subjects that 
"worrited" her "pretty considerable." We were great "friends 



108 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

together," and she was quite benignant and patronizing in her 
manner toward me. Sometimes (smoking her short pipe the 
while) marching up to me and laying her huge heavy hand on my 
shouliJer, she would exclaim, " Wal, them children of ourn are 
Lad children — mighty had, mighty bad ; it wears and worrits a 
body, I guess, properly : and, my I I feel so skeary-like too, for 
I've never been aboard one of these steaming boats, nor never s,cen 
<ine afore." 

This surprised me " considerable," for I should have thought no 
one could live in the States without seeing them. This I ex- 
pressed. 

" No, I haint ; where I live to home, these don't come none on 
'em ; and they're mighty queer boats, I guess, and I don't like 
them, and feel proper skeary, too, aboard on 'em." 

Then she pensively pufied away at the short pipe, till the roar 
ing of some of those young rebels demanded her presence as "head 
pacificator;" when, telling me (to console me for her temporary 
absence) she should soon be back, she, and pipe, and turban, would 
vanish for a while in the distance. For the benefit of those who 
like to study various fashions of dress, I may as well remark that 
the attire of this worthy dame, altogether was a costume somewhat 
resembling the M'ar-dress of AbJ-el-Kader, engrafted on the pacific 
garments of a Dutch skipper's wife ; but no description can do it 
justice. 

I took quite a liking to the worthy soul, and pitied her much 
for being, as she was alternately, a sufferer from " skearyness," and 
from the kicks and cufTs of those insubordinate grandchildren of 
hers. But occasionally she would make a dash at them, like a 
charge of Napoleon's Old Guard, and retire, crowned with victory, 
to smoke the short pipe of peace. On one particular day several 
pitched battles were obstinately fought, besides numerous slight 
skirmishes. The intrepidity of grandmamma, the Invincible, and 
her desperate charges, ultimately won, however, the field, and 
decided the war in favor of the party of order ; but the squalling, 
kicking, biting, and scratching, were alarmingly vehement. The 
passengers in general preserved a sort of armed neutrality, pre- 
pared, however, if the disorderly little enemy attacked them; to 
drive them, back ignominiously with unbrellas, parasols, canes, and 
other weapons of the kind. 

There was another rather large family on board, the very anti- 
podes of these, utterly unlike them in class, manners, appearance, 
every thing. The mother was a lovely Spanish-looking lady, with 



AN AMIABLE FAMILY. 109 

beautiful jet-black hair, and delicate regular features : she was 
exquisitely but simply dressed, and a Spanish mantilla of black 
lace depended, with exceeding grace, from her small statuesque 
head. Her voice was " sweet and low — an excellent thing in 
woman," especially on board a crowded steamboat, where there is 
always a hurricane of noises. And what a refreshing contrast it 
was to that sheikh-like dame's tones, which would have drowned 
the town crier's. 

The eldest child of this family, a little girl, was one of the love- 
liest children I ever saw, and with very charming and pleasing 
manners, neither loud nor forward, nor too shy nor too bold — just 
what a child of her age should be, and like a child — which is not 
always the case here. The youngest child was one of the dearest 
little pets I ever saw : he was about three or four years old, and a 
perfect embodiment of fun, mischief, and merriment — the very soul 
of sauciness and drollery — an infantine Polichinello, a baby Flib- 
bertigibert, with such endless quips and cranks and "mops and 
mows," — methinks such a comical little darling Scaramouch was 
never beheld before ! He seemed a duodecimo Grimaldi, a Lili- 
putian Listen. He was like a supply of laughing-gas to the whole 
cabin, but he seldom laughed himself. There was a sort of quiet, 
profound intensity of fun difiused over his M'hole childish counte- 
nance and figure, that was irresistibly comic ; his eye, cheek, nose, 
chin, seemed all twinkling and winking together, and he had a 
little way of putting on a despairing look of mock pathos, that was 
marvelously amusing. 

His usual dress was a sort of tiny blouse ; but, the morning of 
his departure he was attired in a kind of microscopic pea-jacket 
(he was a very small child), with a mighty knowing-looking hat, 
stuck jauntily on the side of his unspeakably comical little noddle; 
and, as he strutted up and down the cabin, with his infinitesimal 
little "pattes" stuck in the pockets, or the wee short arms a-kimbo, 
it was "■ im.j>a}jable" indeed. 

The grandmamma in this family was quite a model grand- 
mamma. She must have been a person of the most wonderful 
force of character, and of remarkable greatness of mind ; some- 
thing (not in person) like the strong-minded Madame Mfere. It 
will seem incredible, but she actually did not spoil little George I 
I have even seen her look grave when thinking, perhaps, he was 
verging on the bounds of pertness, or exhibiting signs of incipient 
insubordination — grave and remonstrant, when every one was 
convulsed with laughter round her. 



no TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

But she was a model grandmamma in other ways too : such 
care of the children as she took ; so nicely she made them behave ; 
and on the morning of their disembarkation, at a place whose 
name has slipped my memory, she shone forth in full glory. It 
appeared they had expected to arrive very early indeed at this 
place, but, owing to a fog coming on they did not. Well, up she 
got in the dark, and dressed herself as neatly as ever, and then she 
lighted the fire — for the colored stewardess in this steamer hap- 
pened to be particularly lazy, and, I believe, also, poor woman, 
she had a great deal to do. Then the active old lady called all 
the children, and dressed that darling little monkey, George, and 
helped the other children to dress — poor little things ! all half- 
asleep ; and called her daughter (in vain, and no wonder at that 
hour of the morning). She then gave the youthful travelers some 
biscuits for their breakfast, and next began, most sedulously, to 
pack about two dozen carpet-bags and a score of boxes, while the 
stewardess went slowly somnambulizing about, laboriously yawn- 
ing, stretching herself industriously, and diligently doing nothing. 

How so evidently superior a family came to be without servants, 
I know not ; probably they preferred traveling independently 
without them. So it seemed, at all events. Little George's de- 
parture was universally regretted ; he left quite a broken-hearted 
boat behind him. 

This same sonnambula of a stewardess was a very handsome 
person. Her mouth was too wide, but, excepting this defect, her 
features were very fine ; her eyes magnificently large, reminding 
me a little, both by their size and lustre, and their languid expres- 
sion, of the great dark orbs of the women at Constantinople. She 
had a straight classical line of nose. I think she must have been a 
Quadroon, from descriptions I have read of their personal appear- 
ance. Her hair had not the slightest wooliness or even curl about 
it : it was very black, and parted in the straightest possible bands 
on her forehead. But there was a whisper in the boat, that these 
Madonna-wreathed bands on the fine forehead of the Sultana-like 
stewardess were not of native growth ; that, in short, her own 
hair being afUicted with a ripple, or a frizzly infirmity, she wore 
a wig. If I was required to make affidavit of the fact, I really 
could not, and am rather disposed to doubt its being a fact at all. 
This languid and somewhat indolent stewardess was an exception 
to the general rule. They are usually a most active, obliging, 
quick, and attentive set of people, and perform their duties ad- 
mirably. 



ST. LOUIS. Ill 



We find it very cold at St. Louis, but we are in a very comfort- 
able hotel (Monroe House), the rooms of which are kept" delight- 
fully warm. It will doubtless be known in England how dread- 
fully this large, busy, noble city suffered lately from fire and 
cholera ; the last almost depopulated the city for a time. A third 
of the inhabitants were carried off by the pestilence ; and great 
numbers fled in dismay, panic-stricken, with their families, to 
settle in other and, as they thought, less dangerous localities. I 
was told here, the other day, that though it is only a short time 
since this appalling affliction had befallen the city, yet so great 
had been the influx of emigrants, that the gap which had been 
made by cholera was quite filled up. " So," added my informant, 
with not uncharacteristic indifference, " the dead are not at all 
missed ; not in the least, you see." 

Merrily were huge houses going up in all directions. From 
our hotel windows we had a long view of gigantic, and gigantic- 
aily-growing-up dwellings, that seemed every morning to be about 
a story higher than we left them on the preceding night : as if 
they slept during the night on guano, like the small boy in the 
Amei'ican tale, who reposed on a field covered by it, and whose 
father, on seeking him the following day, found a gawky gentle- 
man of eight feet high, bearing a strong resemblance to a Patago- 
nian walking-stick. 

This city is considered the commercial emporium of the West : 
it is not the capital of Missouri ( Jelierson City claims that honor), 
but is the largest city in the State. It was founded by the French 
in 1764 ; for a long time it was little more than a village ; it is 
now an immense and fast-spreading city. There are a good many 
(American) French still resident here, and a great number of 
Germans. They tell me the German immigration this last year 
has been truly enormous. A gentleman observed the other day, 
the Germans, or the " Dutch," as he called them, are " eating up 
the West," and sometimes driving the Americans out of their own 
towns. " The greater part of the West," he said, " will actually 
be in their hands soon." 

This is the chief depot of the Great American Fur Company. 

We are going to try and see a prairie. The Looking-glass 
Prairie, I fear, is too far off to attempt to go to in this cold, bleak, 
unpropitious weather ; and I am much afraid there is none near 
enough ; for civilization hereabouts walks with no mincing, grace- 
ful, dancing-master-like steps, but great, seven-league boots, and 
sprawling, earth-shaking strides, and goes swinging along at such 



11-i TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

a pace that it is all the horizon can do to get out of her way in 
time, and if once she caught it napping, it might go very hard 
with it. 

I shall not try to embark on the great Grass Sea to-day ; be- 
sides, from what I hear of the extent to which inclosing has been 
carried on this year, I doubt much if even the Looking-Cilass 
Prairie has escaped being framed in, and broken up into small 
pieces. 

We were a long while getting here from Louisville, in the 
steamer ; very nearly as long as we were crossing the Atlantic to 
New York. The nights and mornings were generally very foggy, 
and the captain appeared to have an amiable, unusual weakness 
in favor of that trifle, called human life : a pleasant trifle enough 
sometimes. Ah, if some of the poor victims of fast boats and reck- 
less competition could make their voices heard, would they not 
seem to parody that well-known refrain, that brief speech, " I'll 
thank you for that trifle. Uncle Sam I" Particularly careful was 
the good captain of the good steamboat Hindoo, and we had not a 
single accident of any sort or kind all the way to St. Louis ; and 
it is a very diiHcult navigation ; for the Mississippi, sullen and 
sober as it looks, is one of the most variable of rivers. Its sand- 
banks are perpetually shifting, and then there are the " snags and 
sawyers." In the papers you will often see whole columns, headed, 
" Snagged," containing a melancholy list of boats that have had 
that unpleasant and unnecessary operation gratuitously performed 
upon them : frequently they are materially damaged. Then fol- 
lows, sometimes, a list of " boilers burst." There has just arrived 
news of a tremendous explosion on board a new and magnificent 
steamer, " The Louisiana." Hundreds of lives are said to be lost. 
But this does not alarm me in connection with my projected voy- 
age to New Orleans. I think the safest time is always direct- 
ly after a great accident, for people are naturally just then more 
careful. 



CHAPTER XX. 

The Mississippi — Its Impression upon the Author — Its Banks — The im- 
mense Forests seen from it — Its varied Seenery — The Mississippi by 
Night — Hosts of floating Trees — Steamer "snagged" — Visit to the 
late President's Cotton Plantation — His Slaves — Interesting Negro Chil- 
dren — Shanty of Mr. Taylor, the President's Son — An aged Slave — His 
extreme Politeness — The black Valet of Mr. Taylor — The immediate 
Slave Abolition Question — Instances of Ill-Ti-eatment of Slaves — Pei'secu- 
tion of Musquitoes. 

I AM now at New Orleans. We have had a most successful 
and enchanting tour, and oui* late voyage I found extremely inter- 
esting. 

I have been most agreeably disappointed with the Mississippi, 
which has, in general, the reputation of being monotonous and 
wearisome from its usually flat banks, and long lines of almost in- 
terminable, dense, unvarying forests. I am, on the contrary, quite 
delighted with it, and watched and gazed on it, day after day, and 
hour after hour, with ever-newly kindling interest and admiration. 
These very forests themselves were to me sources of ever-fresh 
wonder, and the mighty current of that marvelous river, sweep- 
ing on like the flow of unpausing Time, carrying all before it, I 
thought sublimity itself 

That the banks are flat for hundreds and hundreds of miles, I 
own ; but those forests are so grand, so boundless — the breadth of 
that astounding river is so imposing — its bends and curves so glo- 
rious and beautiful — that I could not find it at all monotonous. 
And then its islands, creeks, bays, branches, and reaches, are so 
numerous and interesting, and its many magnificent tributaries are 
so diversified and so splendid, that it did not seem to me in the 
least degree wearisome or dull. 

Besides these, there is the busy hum of life at various places on 
the shores. The landing-places, wharves, the plantations (toward 
the south), the rising and risen villages and towns, the scattered 
huts of the wood-cutters, the long rows of slaves' habitations (called 
" quarters"), and all the openings — the clearings in the old mighty 
woods, where the settlers' cottages are cheerfully sending up their 
blue smoke to the sky, the germs, probably, of future mighty cities 
— and then those innumerable flat-boats and rafts with small ham- 
lets of houses on them, some wearing the look of a little nautical 



114 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

village ; and all kinds of strange craft, from the roughest and 
rudest, that almost look as if the " snags" and " sawyers" had 
determined to join company, and had linked themselves by some 
natural process together — to the magnificent steamer " Autocrat" 
— one of those " floating steam-palaces," which look really like 
some of the wondrous fleeting creations one sees every now and 
then in the clouds. This " Autocrat," they say, is the largest 
steamer on the Mississippi, and is about four hundred feet long, 
and gorgeous as an enchanted castle inside. The one we came in 
to this place was nearly that length, and decorated with costly 
magnificence. And then there are the poor trees, twisting and 
twirling, and tossing about in the rapid stream (sometimes roots 
uppermost), which form the dreaded " snags" and " sawyers" of 
the Mississippi voyagers ; and the countless flights of birds that 
frequently make the air alive with their myriads of hurrying wings, 
sometimes looking like the moving folds of gigantic serpents. 

How, then, can these stirring and wondrous scenes be insipid ? 
They are certainly not ; and I think any one who can find it mo- 
notonous and tiresome (unless they had pictured to themselves a 
totally difierent scene, and expected a sort of exaggerated Rhine, 
or magnified blue Guadalquiver), must be somewhat devoid of 
heart, mind, and imagination, and especially the first time that 
one steams down it. I can imagine it might become a little tedi- 
ous, a little wearisome or so, the one-and-twentieth voyage or 
thereabouts ; but the first time I I can not comprehend it. No I 
the first time it is all change, wonder, novelty, matter for specula- 
tion and food for reflection, an object of ceaseless interest, and of 
ever-recurring astonishment and admiration. We saw it under a 
vast variety of aspects and change of climate, and even seasons ; 
and often did its whole appearance seem altered. The captain of 
one of the steamboats observed to me, the other day, that after 
long years spent in navigating that wondrous river, he could truly 
say he " had never seen it in any two voyages alike." There are 
so many difierent " stages" of water — the banks are so perpet- 
ually changing, the sand-bars are so incessantly shifting their posi- 
tion, besides other alterations, that I could indeed readily believe 
him. 

I have seen it up in the northwest, amid snow, hail, ice, rain, 
and clouds, and storm, and in the burning sunshine of the south, 
and under its clear and unshadowed skies, by night and by day, in 
the gale and in the calm, flowing through its almost interminable 
mighty wilderness of forest in solitary grandeur, or watering a 



THE MISSISSIPPI BY NIGHT. 115 

thousand teeming plantations with its turbid swelling waves, re- 
ceiving its splendid tributaries (the Ohio, Arkansas River, &c.) as 
if they were so many dew-drops, and sweeping on as if with a 
magnificent unconcern and disdainful indifference, apparently whol- 
ly unaltered and unaffected by these irmnense and majestic acces- 
sories to its might and greatness. 

The breadth of this ever-broad river is scarcely visibly changed, 
though the depth is of course very often greatly increased, as 
stream after stream rolls into its great waters. In the very ab- 
sence of change here, is there not something sublime ? In every 
way it is unlike every other river I ever saw, and appears to be a 
sort of molten flowing world in itself. 

By night the scene is one of startling interest and of magical 
splendor. Hundreds of lights are glancing in different directions, 
from the villages, towns, farms, and plantations on shore, and 
from the magnificent " floating-palaces" of steamers, that fre- 
quently look like moving mountains of light and flame, so brill- 
iantly are these enormous river-leviathans illuminated, outside and 
inside. Indeed, the spectacle presented is like a dream of enchant- 
ment. Imagine steamer after steamer coming sweeping, sounding, 
thundering on, blazing with these thousands of lights, casting long 
brilliant reflections on the fast-rolling waters beneath ; (there is 
often a number of them, one after the other — like so many comets 
in Indian file I) Some of them are so marvelously and dazzlingly 
lighted, they really look like Aladdin's palace on fire (which it in 
all likelihood would be in America), sent skurrying and dashing 
down the stream, while, perhaps, just then all else is darkness 
around it. 

I delighted, too, in seeing, as you very frequently do, the twink- 
ling lights in the numerous cottages and homesteads, dotted here 
and there ; and you may often observe large wood-fires lit on the 
banks, looking like merry-making bonfires. These, I believe, are 
usually signals for the different steamers to stop to take up pas- 
sengers, goods, and animals. I recollect, on one occasion, our cap- 
tain was hard-hearted : the steamer was overflowing with passen- 
gers already, and continued on her course, notwithstanding there 
was a perfect conflagration for a signal on shore, to induce him to 
pause. There must have been some person or persons extraordi- 
narily anxious to be taken up, for the hubbub made on shore was 
surprising : there were furious shouts, waving of hats, a hurricane 
of cries and gesticulations, and people running with great perse- 
verance along the banks, yelling and squalling like maniacs. In 



116 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

vain — on we went, and our imaginations might fill up this mys- 
terious outline of circumstances as they pleased. For me, I felt 
sure cotton was at the bottom of it, somehoAv. 

I heard, however, afterward, that there had been lately bands 
of disorderly emigrants, who had got taken on board the steamers 
thereabouts, and who had made themselves very disagreeable com- 
pany while on board, and yet who thougiit the benefit of their 
society was sufficient payment for their passage. Some of these 
gentry Avere probably the bawlers and bonfire-makers we had left 
behind us, stamping and handkerchief-hoisting. 
"^ It is quite curious to see the hosts of floating trees, agitated and 
restless, and ever-tossing about in the rapid current, and occasion- 
ally rolling and writhing in a little whirlpool. They look some- 
times like a hundred sea-serpents at a blow I Who could believe 
that birds had ever built and sung in their branches? or that they 
ever were appareled in the sweet livery of spring 1 they have be- 
come such black, mummified monsters, and look so hideous and 
forlorn, drifting helplessly along, in the giant steam. 

We were badly "snagged" twice. Once was really a very 
severe snagging, though we survived it ; but I assure you the 
shock might give one a faint idea of being blown up. The first 
time a large tree was stuck in such a manner through the left 
paddle-box that the wheel couldn't move, and a great deal of delay 
was occasioned by our having to stop for the hands to extricate 
the wheel from its disabling situation. 

The most serious of all our snaggings (for we were favored with 
a great variety of samples) was once in the nigjit. We were 
asleep in our cabins, when we were suddenly woke up by an im- 
mense stunning shock, and the steamer stopped immediately, quiv- 
ering, so to say, in every nerve of her huge body. There were a 
great number of horses and mules on board, and they became 
dreadfully frightened, and commenced rearing, kicking, plunging 
and snorting furiously, and the noise and uproar really, altogether, 
sounded most frightful for a time — for, of course, there was no lack 
of shouting, yelling, and rushing backward and forward. After a 
little while, on went the powerful steamer again, pi ungiti" through 
the thick darkness with the great blunt arrovi' that had struck her 
so sorely, fast in her poor wounded side ; but, this time, it had just 
missed the wheel. 

Anotlier snag subsequently hit her in the opposite side ; but the 
wheel fortunately escaped that also ; so away she went, something 
like a savage belle, of whom I have lately read, with wooden 



THE PRESIDENT'S COTTON PLANTATION. 117 

skewers in her two ears. When morning came, eager was the 
rush of all to- see the extent of the damage inflicted. There stuck 
the grim snag right through the paddle-box, as fixed as fate, and 
there we left it when Ave left the steamer. I believe, however, it 
was then in process of extraction. 

Besides these very severe hurts, the unfortunate steamer suffered 
a long succession of bumps and thumps (as well as her passengers) 
from a whole series of snags, almost through the whole night. 
They would not let one repose for a quarter of an hour together in 
peace. The vessel went, jarring and jumping along in as disa- 
greeable a manner as it is well possible to imagine ; very much as 
if she was playing at leap-frog, or hopping on one paddle for a 
wager. The poor mules and horses uttered a most vigorous kick- 
ing protest against such rough treatment, and that additional hub- 
bub did not improve the quiet or comfort of the bipeds. 

I was very glad when we arrived at Natchez (built, I suppose, 
on the scene. of Chateaubriand's lovely work " Les Natchez"). 
From thence we availed ourselves of the President's kind invita- 
tion, to go and see his cotton plantation, and it was a truly inter- 
esting sight to us. 

The late President's son was there, and received us with the 
kindest hospitality. The slaves were mustered and marshaled for 
us to see ; cotton was picked from the few plants that had sur- 
vived the late tei'rible overflowing of the Mississippi ; and the in- 
terior of one of the slaves' houses was exhibited to us. As to the 
slaves themselves, they were as well fed, comfortably clothed, and 
kindly cared for in every way as possible, and seemed thoroughly 
happy and contented. The dwelling-house we went to look at 
was extremely nice : it was a most tastefully decorated and an 
excellently furnished one ; the walls were covered with prints, and 
it was scrupulously clean and neat. 

V expressed a great wish to see some of the small sable fry, 

and a whole regiment of little robust, rotund, black babies were 
forthwith paraded for her especial amusement : it was a very or- 
derly little assemblage, and it can not be imagined how nice and 
clean they all looked. Such a congregation of little smiling, good- 
natured, ra\{en roly-polies, I never saw collected together before. 
One perfect duck of a child was only about three weeks old, but it 
comported itself quite in as orderly a manner as the rest — as if it 
had been used to give parties and assemblies, and receive any 
quantity of company, from every nation on earth, all its days, or 
rather hours. It was as black as a little image carved in polished 



118 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

ebony, and as piump as a partridge (in mourning). These pitchy- 
colored piccaninnies differed from white children in one essential 
particular, for they Avere all perfectly quiet and silent ; all wide 
awake, but all still and smiling. 

After the main body had departed a small straggler was brought 
in (whose mother, perhaps, had lavished additional cares upon its 
state toilet) ; and it alone, apparently alarmed at finding itself 
thus unsupported and insulated, testified its disapprobation at the 
presence of English visitors by a very mild squall. We saw an 
older child afterward, who was very nearly white, with lovely 
features and fair hair ; the mother was a mulatto, and the father 
almost white. 

V was delighted with the whole company of little inky 

imps from first to last, nursing and fondling them in high glee ; 
and it may be readily conceived that the mothers stood by equally 
enchanted at having their little darkies so appreciated — and not a 
little proud ; showing their splendid glittering teeth almost from 
ear to ear. 

All the slaves were evidently taken the kindest care of on Gen. 
Taylor's plantation. Men, women, and children all appeared to 
adore Mr. Taylor, who seemed extremely kind to them, and affa- 
ble with them. He informed us he sleeps always in his own rus- 
tic shanty, surrounded by the slaves' quarters, without bolt, bar, 
or lock of any description on his doors, and that the negroe.s were 
not fastened or shut up in any way. This shanty was a very nice 
wooden building, with a colonnaded promenade in front, looking 
on the river, and had a capital sitting-room, very cool and pleas- 
ant. The overseer's house was at a little distance. 

The principal mansion boasted, too, of a good and large collec- 
tion of books, among which Mr. Taylor showed me an illustrated 
Mexican " Don Quixote." He had brought it with him from 
Mexico, and added, that it was said to be the first work ever 
illustrated in that country. The engravings were well executed, 
and the designs were spirited and clever. 

We saw an aged slave, a hundred years old, and apparently 
quite hale and hearty. He did not seem to be the least deaf or 
decrepit, or to have lost his faculties in any way : he had quite 
polished and graceful manners, something like an old French mar- 
quis of the vieille cour. He really reminded me a little in his 
courteous salutations of dear old Marquis de I'Aigle, who used to 

tell me at the Chateau d'O of his dancing minuets with poor 

Marie Antoinette. He came daintily forward and treated us to most 



AN AGED SLAVE. 119 



Chestcrfieldian bows and reverences, with multitudinous respect- 
ful inquiries after our health and well-being. 

" What do I owe you for those chickens you sold to me a little 
while ago 1" asked the President's son of the old slave. "One 
dollar and five bits," replied the centenarian with the most unhes- 
itating accuracy and promptitude. The money was immediately 
paid to him. Mr. Taylor had told me before that he always 
bought his poultry of this old man, who was allowed to rear them 
0)1 his oivn accoimt, " and who, I assure you, invariably charges 
the very highest prices for them," added he, laughing. 

I took an opportunity of offering this sable Sir Charles Grandi- 
son a trifling backsheesh to reward him a little for his walk to 
the lodge to see us (though, by the way, we were told it was no 
unusual exertion for him, as he very frequently came there) ; tho 
bowing increased to almost ko-tooittg, and he went on his way re- 
joicing and bowing still, like a self acting porcelain Chinese Man- 
darin, " nid-nid-nodding." 

We brought away a ti?iy bale of the President's beautiful white 
cotton, just as it came off the tree. 

When the slaves were collected together in front of the house 
for our inspection, they had each, as a treat, some tobacco given 
them, which is what they dearly love. This they afterward pro- 
ceeded to smoke to our healths, to which I had no sort of objec- 
tion, provided they did not wish me to hob and nob with them. 
They were generally fine stout-looking people, and had not at all 
a stupid air. One very remarkably intelligent-looking youth was 
Mr. Taylor's valet; and the latter informed me that this young 
negro had taught himself to read and to write. For some time Mr. 
Taylor had remarked that he sat up very late, and after observing 
this repeatedly, he resolved on watching him, to see what object 
he had in maintaining these lengthened vigils. He thus dis- 
covered the fact. The poor aspiring darkie had saved every can- 
dle-end he could find, and deprived himself of sleep night after 
night to accomplish his design. Might not such a one become a 
Toussaint I'Ouverture in time ? 

Alas ! there are too many interests involved — even those of the 
slaves themselves — to permit the immediate extinction of slavery. 
I am quite aware that on plantations such as the one I have been 
writing about, one sees entirely the couleur de rose of the business ; 
but I believe it is very rarely the negroes arc ill-treated, except, 
as I was told by an American, occasionally by small farmers, emi- 
grants, who have never had such power before, and who are often 



120 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

led into abusing it. The French are said to be very severe mas- 
ters, but I was constantly assured the worst of all arc the colored 
people themselves. This will appear less astonishing when it is 
recollected that these people are universally ignorant and unedu- 
cated, without any proper moral training to teach them to restrain 
and subdue their naturally violent and inflammable passions and 
tempers. 

I can not but think, too, that sometimes when the proprietor 
himself does not live much on his estate, or personally superintend 
his colored laborers, they are harshly used by the overseer. One 
must guard against believing all the exaggerations and prejudiced 
statements that one hears ; but I have been told some painful 
things relating to this, that seemed certainly from unimpeachable 
authority. 

Mr. told me at New Orleans that an overseer had actual- 
ly oflered to flog one of the negroes under his charge to show him 
bow it was done, and this in the most careless manner, as if it 
was quite a common-place proposition. I can hardly help think- 
ing the man had been piqued by some remarks of Mr. , and 

said this as a sort of bravado, to show him he defied his opinion. 
The other story is, I fear, more vraisemblahlc. An overseer was 
talking of the idleness and carelessness of the negroes being some- 
times very irritating and provoking — as no doubt they may be — 
and, said he, "when that rascal did so and so, I shot him, that's 
a fact, for I got so mad I couldn't do nothing else." I have heard, 
not overseers, but other persons say the same sort of thing frequent- 
ly, as an excuse for very intemperate and inconsiderate conduct 
toward others, and they seem to think this exonerates them from 
all blame, as if they were really not responsible agents at the 
time. A gentleman conversing with me some time since in the 
West, on the subject of some new regulations on board one of the 
steam-boats, said that the black waiter, on bringing him some 
beefsteaks and hot potatoes that he had ordered for luncheon, re- 
quired payment down before the savory and smoking refection was 
tasted. Highly indignant, the gentleman remonstrated, nay re- 
commended the ebony-complexioned waiter to " absquatulate," 
without loss of time. He remarked he was above all suspicion, 
and while he was getting out his purse and counting out the coin, 
the beefsteaks would be very fast deterioriating in value. Poor 
Pompey declared the captain's orders were absolute, and that all 
were required to submit, and again reiterated his request for im- 
mediate payment. " I got so mad at this," exclaimed the narra- 



PERSECUTION FROM MUSQUITOES. 121 

tor, " that I took up the whole tray and flung it and the contents 
in his ugly face." 1 am airaid there is generally luethod iu this 
pleaded madness of a moment, for its victims are commonly the 
helpless and unresisting. 

Mr. had gone to see the jail, and he remarked some sin- 
gularly ferocious-looking men, who proved to be Spaniards. " Ay, 
they are right desperate chaps, thera," exclaimed the jailer or 
turnkey who accompanied him ; "I reckon them furriners 'ud 
think no more of murdering a man right slick, nor you would of 
walloping your nigger." But I am saying more than I intended 
on this theme ; and of all people in the world, the English have 
the least right to find fault with the Americans for retaining still 
the legacy which they had from England, that melancholy and 
dangerous keepsake that was her gift — a gift forced on their 
acceptance too. 

I must confess one sees veiy original advertisements in their 
papers sometimes. The other day this one caught my eye ; — 
" To he sold immediately, a negro woman, and a case of damaged 
Marseilles soap ;" and often you sec mules, carts, wheel-barrows, 
negroes, and farming utensils, all huddled up together in a compre- 
pensive advertisement. How comprehensive, alas ! They do not 
seem to think ; but of one thing 1 leel quite certain, from many 
observations I have made, if you had the power to liberate all the 
slaves in the United States, you would find not a tentli, not a 
twentieth — perhaps not a hundredth part of them — would accept 
their freedom from your hands. 

I have had an almost sleepless night of musquito torment. The 
housemaids assured me that the musquitoes hardly ever bite now, 
— that their gay seaso/i was over, and that they were living very 
retired lives ; occupying their leisure, I suppose, in improving their 
minds. If they would but learn to have a little philanthrojiy ! 
But they would perhaps answer, they " already like man very 
much indeed." Ah I it is quite a platter afiection, a cupboard 
love. 

Hearing the satisfactory report I have quoted above, I left my 
net rolled up last night, and was almost eaten up alive. 1 could 
hardly sleep a wink the whole night, and passed its long hours 
chiefly in the pleasant occupation of violently boxing my own ears, 
iu ineffectual attempts to deal death and destruction at those uu- 
pitying tormentors. They are the most ubiquitous little monsters 
in existence, and the most unkillable : you give yourself a blow 
that might knock down the " Mammoth horse," and, though sore- 

F 



122 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

ly hurt, rejoice in thinking you have pulverized the foe, and you 
feel him instanter biting away at the very hand which hit the 
"blow, or, laughing at you (and stabbing at you, too), perched on 
the top of your own nose. 

These Liliputian lancers came on like the clouds of irregular 
Cossack cavalry that so harassed the French in their direful 
Russian retreat — they are here, there, and every where, their ter- 
rible " hoorah," and deadly dreadful little war-whoops, freezing one 
•with horror. In the day-time it is hateful enough, but at night 
far worse. However, at night, one has the happy resource of the 
"bars," as they call the net apparatus here, but none in the day. 
It would perchance lengthen one's life a little, or at any rate 
spare one's self from sore anguish, to adppt Cromwell's plan, and 
■wear a coat of mail mider the outer apparel, but soon would 
these clever little assassins, these " Thugs" of domestic life, find a 
joint in one's armor ; and then should one not be like those an- 
cient warriors, who, by a cruel device of the enemy, found them- 
selves closed up and imprisoned in cuirasses almost red-hot ? 



CHAPTER XXI. 

The St. Charles Hotel at New Orleans. — The Swedish Waiter and Jenny 
Lind. — Oppressive Heat in December in New Orleans. — Vast Quantities 
of Cotton. — The probable future Aspect of the Banks of the IMississippi. — 
Commerce of New Orleans. — The City.^ts Port. — Its Inhabitants. — Its 
Churches. — The City subject to Inundations. — Places of Sepulture above 
Ground. — Wreck of the Louisiana Steamer. — Wonderful Capabilities of 
the Valley of the JNIississippi. — The Americans not extravagant when they 
describe the Resources of their Count r)'. — Alligators. — The Red River. 
— The artificial Embankments of the JMississippi at New Orleans. — Their 
Insecurity. 

We are quite suflering from the heat of the weather here, and 
■we are told it is unusual to be so oppres.sively warm at New 
Orleans in the month of December. 

We are at a very splendid and comfortable hotel, called " the 
Verandah ;" it reminds me much of a Parisian one. The St. 
Charles is the largest of all the hotels in New Orleans, but it is 
miich crowded, and we were recommended to try this, as it is 
quieter, and thus pleasanter for ladies. The St Charles looks a 
little like St. Peter's at a distance — it is surmounted by an im- 
mense dome'; it boasts, likewise, of a splendid Corinthian portico. 



I\EVV OKLEAiNS shipping. 123 

It is said to be the largest in America. The attendance at this 
Verandah hotel is admirable, and all the arrangements excellent. 
But the charges are much higher than usual m the States. 

We are waited upon by a little Swede almost I'resh from Jenny- 
Lind land ; and he asked me at dinner yesterday, in an anxious 
tone, whether 1 had ever heard his gii'ted countrywoman sing. I 
replied in the aflirmative. "Then I come i'rom two miles of her 
in Sweden — I am from two miles of her" (from where she lives iu 
Sweden). — '•Indeed!" — "Yes, and I have known her from a 
little child. She is very good and fine, oh, very fine ; and 1 hear 
in England they much like her." I assented, and, eloquent in the 
praise of his northern lands nightingale, he continued, " Siie sings 
so beautiful ; she is a wonderful singer ! Nothing like her, very 
great — very fine and great" — and then, by way of crowning all 
his praises, he exclaimed, with prodigious emphasis, " Oh, she is 
very neat, very ncaty I was not quite sure M'hat particular form 
of encomium was intended to be conveyed by that expression, but, 
nevertheless, signified my concurrence unhesitatingly, as it Avas 
evident he considered this a "clincher," for he spoke quite "in 
itahcs." 

The quantity of shipping here seems to be enormous, and the 
quays and the levee (as the great promenade which interposes 
itself between the Crescent City and the Mississippi is called) were 
so covered with huge bales of cotton (though it is far from a pro- 
ductive year) that the ground was literally strewn with little lumps 
of it, fallen from the plethoric bales in moving them. It almost 
looked as if it had been snowing in large fiakes. I think one might 
drive a tolerably profitable trade as a gleaner by picking up the 
scattered cotton, collecting it, and making it up into a few second- 
hand bales. You might almost glean enough to freight a small 
ship — or stock a little warehouse. 

Once or twice in our Mississippi voyages (for we stopped to see 
various places, and thus our voyage was performed in separate 
divisions, and by difierent steamer.?) we found ourselves in vessels 
that appeared to eyes inexperienced in such matters to be alarm- 
ingly overladen by the heaped-up cotton bales. I recollect on 
disembarking from one steamer, that she really seemed, as we 
watched her from the wharf where we had landed, to be all but 
submerged. She looked as though she went along her course 
making the most profound courtesies imaginable into the water, and 
how she kept her head above the element in question I know not. 

Wo have luckily got large and airy apartments iu this same 



124 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Verandah Hotel ; for if they were not so I know not how we should 
endure the heat. It is now evening — considerably past the middle 
of December — and we are sitting with broad immense French win- 
dows wide open, and, of course, we have no fire, and yet it is suf- 
focatingly hot, and we are gasping for breath ; but as the New 
Orleanists themselves are grumbling and scolding at this weather, 
as unseasonable and insufferable, I presume we may expect a • 
speedy termination to this frying-pan temperature. 

A very agreeable and charming French Lauisianian lady, who 
had traveled with us across the Alleghany Mountains called to see 
me the other day. She assured me she was suffering much from 
the great heat, and seldom remembered it so oppressive. Madame 
V had just returned from Paris. She Avas traveling in com- 
pany with her mother, husband, and several friends of theirs, 
forriiing altogether a very large and agreeable party. Among 
them was a Greek gentleman, Avho had lately settled in New 

Orleans, and a M. , who had traveled a great deal, and was 

a remarkably well-informed and pleasing person. 

Almost whenever we look out of the window, we behold cotton 
in vast quantities, carried through the streets in rather awkward- 
lookin"- carts or drays, which recalls to us that we are in the 
Crescent City — the City of Cotton par excellence. It is called 
the former name from its semicircular conformation, following the 
sweeping curves of the Mississippi shore. It is built on the left 
bank of that mighty stream, and is about a hundred miles from 
where it mingles its far-traveled waters with those of the Gulf of 
]y[exico — I'ar-traveled indeed I In its irresistible flow, through 
how many climates and latitudes has it gone, sounding and sweep- 
in'' on,' in its majestic breadth and more awful depth, and its 
hauo-hty power, and gigantic features — more like a long sea than 
a mere river — a drawn-out Adriatic — an attenuated Mediter- 
ranean. 

Campbell's fine line would apply to it lengthwise, as to the 
ocean : — " The lightning's wing sinks halfway o'er thee hke a 
wearied bird." 

I shall want a microscope when I return to England ; so miser- 
ably small and petty will seem its rivers, its hills — all its features. 
Magnifying glasses might save one's patriotic vanity a httle, till 
we get used to the miniature scale. 

The Mississippi springs to life amid the chilly glare of everlast- 
ing snows, and it ends its mighty career beneath a burning sky, 
ay, almost under the flaming heavens of the tropics. Nothing 



POSITION OF NEW ORLEANS. 125 

gives one a better idea of the immensity and greatness of this 
subhme river, than the reflection that a vast space, comprising 
about to millions of square miles, pours its surpkis vi^aters into this 
king of rivers. It is indeed a Long Sea. Then not easily can 
one forget, in looking on those wonderful waters, what change 
another hundred years will almost certainly have produced on the 
vast scenes which they lave. What very nations of men will 
crowd on its busy shores, and throng its immense valley I What 
a world of wonders will be presented to the future voyager I What 
industry, what prosperity, what splendor, what yet undreamed-of 
attainments of civilization, and triumphs of science, and achieve- 
ments of art ! 

Already you see the beginnings of all these. The desert is 
gradually blooming, the forest is retreating, the habitations of men 
are rising in all directions, fleets of steamers and other craft are 
covering the face of the river ; thousands of enterprising settlers 
are setting foot on the shores, and advancing further and further 
into the beleaguered wilderness — but a hundred years hence, nay, 
fifty I Imagination almost fails to paint to herself what shall 
then be unfolded and displayed in broad day to the gladdened 
vision. 

In a commercial point of view. New Orleans stands in a pi-e- 
eminently advantageous position. The Mississippi, with its 
numerous fine tributaries, lays at its feet the products of about 
twenty-five thousand miles of navigation (only reckoning streams 
navigable for large vessels), through regions of almost unparalleled 
fertility, and of still greater promise ; and it carries back the 
varied and extensive contributions of nearly every country and 
every climate. The city proper is built in the form of a parallelo- 
gram ; its whole length (including the incorporated fauxbourgs) is 
said not to be less than live miles parallel with the river. Some 
of the streets are extremely handsome, but present a very foreign 
appearance. There is one enormously wide street, or " place," with 
trees in rows down the middle of it, something like Eaton-square. 

There arc a good many villas in the suburbs, surrounded with 
gardens, in which orange and other beautiful trees abound. I 
should think the best possible view of New Orleans, is the one we 
saw on our arrival from the river. It is indeed magnificent, seen 
from there ; and M'hat a noble and busy aspect did its fine port 
present, crowded with vessels of all sorts, descriptions, sizes, na- 
tions, and appearances ; splendid steamboats by hundreds, and a 
multiplicity of river craft, rafts, barges, flat bottomed boats, &c. • 



126 TRAVELS L\ AMERICA. 

The inhabitauts of New Oilcans, consist chiefly of Americans, 
and French and Spanish Louisianians. French is the language 
generally talked in the streets, in short, the prevailing tongue ; but 
there are some of all nations. 

There are many churches in New Orleans, some antique-look- 
ing, and others apparently of a very recent date. We attended a 
Protestant one, lately finished, of admirable architecture. The 
cathedral, or Church of St. Louis, in the Place d'Armes, is a ven- 
erable looking edifice. 

Whenever the INlississippi oA'erllows in the least, the streets of 
New Orleans are inundated; but the levee (designed chiefly for 
the purpose) prevents the great body of the swelling waters from 
entirely annihilating the place. Not long ago, there was a very 
serious overflow. The crerasscs were fearful, and some alarm was 
entertained for parts of the city. Boats were the only means of 
conveyance in the streets, and windows the ways of ingress and 
egress. It must have been like Veiuce, but an impromptu sort of 
Venice, without the needful contrivances and conveniences. 

New Orleans has several peculiarities of its own, even when it 
is not thus unceremoniously entered by the Mississippi. For in- 
stance, the cellars and graves are above ground. With regard to 
the cellars, the basement story of the houses is usually raised very 
considerably above the surface, the hall door being reached by a 
flight of steps. The graves are also elevated. The dead are 
buried in sepulchral houses, which are termed here " ovens." 
These often contain three or four tiers. Those l)elonging to the 
wealthy are frequently very handsome, and built with marble 
walls. There are walks leading to ditierent parts of this singular 
cemeterjs paved neatly with shells. Were they to attempt to dig 
into the marshy ground, they would drown the remains of their 
lojst friends and relatives, and write their loved names indeed in 
water. 

There was something very melancholy in the appearance of the 
cemetery, that we saw. Altogether, the damp swamp of the im- 
wholesonie-looking ground, the low, llat, gloomy inclosuro, with its 
cold and sombre houses of death, and the carelessness and neglect 
visible, I thought, in general, made it a very mournful spectacle. 
1 believe it is not considered prudent to stay long in this sad place, 
which may account for its seeming rather deserted and uncared- 
for. Certainly, in general, however little value America may 
seem to attach to life, before Death, in their magnificent ceme- 
teries, they usually spread a " feast of roses." 



PROCESSION OF FREEMASONS. 127 



While speakino- of molaucliolv snbjeots, I can not resist rcpeat- 

incr an anecdote I heai-a the other ihiy iVom Mrs. . boon 

after the horrible catastro,ihe of the Louisiana stearncr the nu- 
merous unknown, unclaiiued bodies were laid out on the levee, tor 
their friends or relatives to identify and remove them. A InendL 

of Mrs a youuff man of rather delicate health, wished, out 

of curiosity, to see this'appallins spectacle. His IVieuds remonstra- 
ted with him, and caniestly sought to dissuade hun, tellmg- liim 
that in his state of health, and subject as he was to nervous de- 
pression of spirits, he should carefully avoiil such a inglitiul scene; 
but he disregarded all their representations and entreaties, and de- 
cided on '^oin'^. lie went, and on beholding the ghastly sight, the 
hideous rows of mutilated bodies, some mere trunks, and all in the 
mo-t awfully dreadful condition, he was seized with shivering and 
I'ainting ; he was (piickly conveyed home, but never rallied trom 
the slwck ; and, after lingering a few days, he died. ^ 

The noise of the terrilic explosion of the " Louisiana was heard 
at a ^reat distance, and fragments of the boiler Hew in diQerent 
directions very far. A mulo, in one of the streets, was cut com- 
pletely in two, by a Iragmeut, and on the levee, numbers ot per- 
sons were killed. 

We «aw the other day, from our windows, an immense proces- 
sion of Freemasons— at least, such I imagined them to be. 1 hey 
were very handsomely attired and decorated ; but one ol then- num- 
ber was a most ferocious-looking persou;.ge, with a tremendous 
beard— such a beard ! An extravagant humorist might say that 
a fox-huntor would be fain to draw that cover tor a lox, with a 
probability of success. You might think, m looking at h.m, that 
he at least might bear a charmed life among bursting boilers, rail- 
road collisions, and such disasters, and dangers, and latal acci- 
dents ; i'or if Death stared him in the lace, poor Death would 
surely'run oil; frightened to death himsell. 

One can not but think what a wondertul place this same Now 
Orleans will probably become in the ihture. It is calculated that 
the Great Valley of the Mississippi, now only contaming, compar- 
atively speaking, a mere handh.l of inhabitants, could easily sus- 
tain and comibrtably accommodate one hundred and liity millions 
of people. Now the population is about ten millions. VV lat a 
future! what a country! and what a noble people, lo work out 
its "rand destiny, and to fill up magnificently the magnibcent de- 
sirr,';s of Nature. It is all petty malice and jealousy which make 
people talk of their exaggerated expressions and ideas. A man 



128 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

must have imagination indeed, must out-Shakspeare Shakspeare, 
the myriad-minded, and the very lord of imagination, to deal in 
hyperbolical extravagance here. What would be exaggeration in. 
other countries, is here the simplest moderation, and in all proba- 
bility lags behind the reality. The fact is, they feel their destiny, 
and their country's destiny, and they would be stocks and stones 
if they did not ; and if, in England, we are disposed to think they 
"greatly daring" talk, we should remember a little what a pros- 
pect lies belbre them. Nature, their present, their future — all is 
in such an exaggerated mood here, all on such a stupendous scale I 
For them to have little views, and entertain trifling projects, or 
hold petty opinions, with regard to their mighty country's advance- 
ment and progress, would be as absurd as to see a party ot" giants 
in go-carts or in pinafores, and playing at " Tom Thumb" and 
" Goody Two Shoes." 

People take dillerent views of things. Our little Swedish waiter 
seems to think America was especially designed and provided by 
Nature as a vast receptacle and a sort of asylum for destitute or 
somewhat needy Swedes ; a kind of country of ease for Sweden in 
])articular, who kindly allowed her advantages to be shared by a 
few other refugees iVom a few other nations. Regarded in this 
rather modest light, it appeared to give him tolerable satisfaction, 
on the whole ; though on some points he seemed inclined to think, 
a little change would be beneficial, such as having a Swedish 
president here, and trifles of that sort. However, he was an ex- 
cellent Avaiter, and labored most zealously in his vocation ; always 
at hand, always active, attentive, and in good-humor : he must be 
invaluable to the master of this busy hotel. 

We have a great iancy for tasting and trying all sorts of un- 
earthly, halfsupernatural dishes. We had louud bear excellent 
in the "NVest ; sometimes a wild bufliilo capital. Had it been the 
country for such animals we should have ordered hippopotamus- 
pie, or a leg of camelopard, or chimpanzee chops, or a lew slices 
of rattlesnake, with orang-outang sauce. As it was, we asked for 
Avild turkey, and wild geese, and wild raccoons, or " possums." I 
believe these things (I do not know about the last) are accounted 
very good, and it amused us trying and experimentalizing on them. 
The rechcrdicc cuishic of the hotel did not admit of such " curios- 
ities of cookery;" so very frequently, and with regret, our poor 
little Swede was constrained to bring us tame beef and mutton, 
and other such common-place dishes instead. However, he did his 
best, and brought, triumi)hanlly. the other day, ir//d ros Z>/r/"(bnf- 



TIIK RED RiVER. 129 



falo) ; and, in short, dubbed any thing wild that could possibly be 
called so. According to him we tasted various very savage fish, 
and soup manuiiictured iVom particularly uncivilized turtle. We 
should have liked to taste alligator much, but, however, failed in 
so doing : it is said to be pretty good. There are very few, if any, 
left ill the Mississippi ; the numbers of steamboats there have 
crowded them out, and frightened them away. The Red River, 
with its shore, is called, I believe, the cotton-planter's paradise, 
and it is also the alligator's, if the account I hear of the quantities 
there be true. In the Mississippi they abound only in the creeks 
and small branches. 

The Red River rises in the Mexican Cordillera, and debouches 
into the Mississippi about two hundred and forty miles from New 
Orleans : it is navigable for thirteen hundred miles above its union 
with the waters of the great river. But what is that compared 
with the united navigable channels of the Mississippi and the 
Missouri, which in length actually exceed three thousand miles I 
I have heard it stated to be exactly three thousand four hundred 
and twenty miles. 

The artificial embankments, or levees, that I have already 
alluded to, commence on the east bank, sixty miles above New 
Orleans, and continue to extend down the I'iver more than one 
hundred and thirty miles. On the west shore the embankment 
commences one hundred and seventy-two miles above New Or- 
leans ; some, however, think that, instead of a protection, those 
artificial levees will prove a means of aggravating the dangers 
apprehended. By a natural process the river, it appears, is con- 
tinually raising its channel by a continued succession of deposits, 
and also elevating its own banks ; but whether the banks are 
rai-sed by Nature or by art, the result will be equal ; for by either 
it would seem unquestionable that the process of upheaving the 
bed oi' the river is accelerated (as the river can not there deposit the 
extra material on the neighboring surface), and, perhaps, the more 
so, as the velocity and force of the current are considerably weak- 
ened and diminished as it advances toward the sea. 

The tremendous crevasses of this year have greatly alarmed 
many people. The poor Crescent City already looks iip at high 
water to the awful river, and with very tearful eyes too some- 
times, and I am not at all sure, on second thoughts, that her com- 
manding commercial position is so very favorable and enviable a 
one. There is also some chance that she may find herself some 
day a "fair forsaken," for it is not at all unlikely that the great 

X-* 



130 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

potentate and papa of rivers may one tine morning run ofif alto- 
getlier. 

In Mr. IMackay's " Western World" this is perfectly explained. 
New Orleans then would have no chance hut to put herself upon 
"rollers," and rush after it, taking up a new position somewhere 
on its banks. 

The electric telegraph is established on an enormous scale in 
America. The whole of the Western, Northern, and Southern 
States now hold frequent and iniinterrupted conununication through 
its instrumentality. The great line Avas completed in September, 
1848. The other day at New Orleans they knew what had hap- 
pened at Paris twelve days before — so at least I was told. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

Mobile — Lake Ponchartrain — An Indian Encampment — The Indians and 
their Squaws — Chunipa Girls — Some Account of Mobile — lis Haibor — 
Festival of the New Year — Rival musical Processions — The JNIagnolia 
Grove — JNlanuer of Lite of the Indians — Manifold Miseries attending 

waiting for Steamers — Madame L V iNIr. Clay — Preparing to 

start for ^Mexico — ]Madamc L V 's old black Slave — Her Re- 
membrance of Washington — Verses on JMadame L V 's deceased 

Children. 

In the month of January, 1S50, we came by Lake Ponchartrain, 
in a very good steamer, to the Gulf, and so to Mobile. 

Before we embarked on the lake we had to go by railroad a dis- 
tance of about six miles ; and as we were waiting in a curious 
circular sort of car, we saw an interesting procession of Indians — 
an Indian encampment on the move. The men seemed a mag- 
nificent-looking set, splendidly rigged out in very brilliant and pic- 
turesque habiliments. At a little distance, at first sight, I thought 
their costume looked very much like that of Highlanders in their 
grandc tcn/tc. Tliey stalked along with extreme dignity, and their 
haughty walk reminded me of the theatrical, yet bold strutting 
march of the Albanians, the linest steppers I ever saw. 

They were as upright as their own arrows, or the tropical 
palms ; but not so their unlucky squaws, mIio followed after, bow- 
ed under the weight of papooshes, lodge-poles, pots, pans, kettles, 
all sorts of luggage and lumber, live and otherwise. They looked 
bent all manner of wavs, and old — no wonder — somctliing like a 



ClIUMPA GIRLS. 131 



parly of nomadic nut-crackers or itinerant notes of interrogation. 
Poor creatures I how wearily they seemed plodding- along after 
the ungallaut gcntlemeu of ihe party, who had burdened them- 
selves with nothing hut their guns. 

We had a charming little voyage over Lake Ponehartrain. I 
made acquaintance with a particularly nice Louisianian lady on 
board, who had the misfbrlune to have a child afllicted with a sad 
deformity : its little arm was a mere short stump, with something 
like the rudiments of a hand attached to it. It was a most en- 
gaging, charminir little child notwilhslanding, lull of life, good- 
humor, and spirits. 'J"'iie mother appeared to adore it, and so dui 
the black nurse. 

I was much struck with the great mutual aflection this nurso 
and the child showed to each other, and particularly by the ue- 
gress's constant and extreme attention to the child when the lady 
was not there. I mentioned this to her, and also that I thought 
this nurse had a remarkably good and gentle manner with the 
child. " Yes," she replied, "but at first she was very rough, and 
spoke so strangely, that 1 could hardly understand her." I asked 
her the cause of this, and she proceeded to tell me that, for somo 
reason, being obliged rather hastily to llnd a fresh nurse for her 
child, she had sent for one oi' the Jic/d ha/ids — her husband owned 
a sugar plantation — who were in general rough and rugged to an 
inconceivable degree ; and that, if translated iVom the field to the 
house, they were almost in.«upporlable for a short time, but grad- 
ually acquired the gentle manners and the quiet ways of speaking 
of the house servants, and entirely left o(F all their uncouth anil 
almost savage habits. The blacks, it would seem, then, like all 
of us, more or less, are the creatures of circumstances. 

We saw a most maguificeut moon on the Gulf of Mexico the 
other evening. It appeared of enormous size, and of the most 
beantiful fire-coloi- — in short, more like a rising sun than a moon. 

The weather here is deliciously cool and fresh after New Or- 
leans. This morning we had a visit from two Indian churnpa 
girls. They are called so from carrying little fagots of pine-wood 
for sale for the fires, and they generally quietly march into your 
room without the ceremony of knocking, uttering the magic word 
" cliumpa," which they seem 1o consider a sort of " Open Sesame." 
They belong to the remains of the great Choctaw tribe, and there 
is a large camp of them not far from Mobile. The Chcrokees 
have lately been removed. 

This place, at tlie mouth of the jMohile River, has become the 



132 TRAVELS IN AxMERICA. 

seat of a very extensive trade, and it is the principal outlet of the 
commerce of the State of Alabama ; and enormous quantities of 
cotton and other staples are brought down by the difierent rivers 
iVom the upper districts, and also from the westei'n portion of 
Georgia, and from the state of Mississippi, to this point. Next to 
New Orleans, this city is the largest cotton market in the Union ; 
it has a beautiful view of the Bay, from which it receives pleas- 
ant and health-giving breezes. Near the town are numbers of 
pretty and substantial villas, with delightful gardens. 

Mobile has a good harbor, and is well-defended by fortifications. 
Indian names are in the ascendant in this State : Alabama itself, 
I am told, means " Here we rest." Then there are the Tallapoo- 
sa and Coosa Rivers, the Cahawba and the Chattahoochee (this 
river united with the FHnt, forms, I beheve, the Apalachicola, 
•which runs through Florida). Then there is the town of Tusca- 
loosa, on the Black Warrior Uiver, Tuscumbia, &c. The Bay 
of Mobile is thirty miles long and twelve broad. 

The city was founded by the Spaniards in 1700, but did not 
become a place of importance or wealth till the Americans cap- 
tured it in 1811. Some time ago it belonged to Florida, and it 
may be seen there still in a not very antiquated map. 

There were some marvelous processions last night to celebrate 
the New Year. These appeared to be representations " of all the 
world and the rest of mankind," and a little besides this tolerably 
comprehensive catalogue, for Olympus was there ; and, by the 
way, ran rather foul of another Celestial empire, China, that oc- 
casioned some trifling discord, which soon passed away. Pig-tail- 
ed Mandarins, pagodas, and colored lanterns on poles, clashed with 
tridents, chariots, and mythological divinities. But the most try- 
ing part of that unlucky rencontre was, that each had a good large 
noisy band of music, and these bands, Avith unfaltering intrepidity, 
caine sounding and marching on, nothing daunted, though an 
harmonious, or, rathei', an inharmonious collision was inevitable, 
" Tweedledum" marched from one end of the street, and " TM'ee- 
dledee" from the other ; and Tweedledum pufled and blew, and 
twanged and flourished, and Tweedledee fiddled and squeaked, 
and grunted and groaned. 

" The plot thickened ;" demi-semi-quavers were fluttering con- 
vulsively in the air, and all sorts of queer crotchets seemed in the 
heads of the musicians. Infuriated drummer-boys, from the cen- 
tral flowery-land, rub-a-dubbed madly against the " rataplan" of 
their opponents; either opposition empire came on, as bold as 



MAGNOLIA GROVE. 13. 



brass and catgut could make them : the fiddlers of snowy Olym- 
pus played the sublimest of jigs, and the most thrilling of polkas ; 
the Celestial trombones " Yankee-doodle" and " Old Virginny," 
with electrical efi'ect. On they came still — would either give 
way '? No : louder, and louder yet. The basses and trebles, and 
flats and sharps, and livelys and maestosos, were jumbled together 
into one most horrible hash and clash of music. Where would it 
end ? Now comes the tug of war. Messrs. Neptune and Mars, 
and their myrmidons, advance against Chang-fo and Co. : the 
wind instruments were distending their cheeks almost to bursting, 
the drums were beaten till they were quite beat. All the notes 
seemed entangled together in inextricable confusion — a grand 
hodge-podge of sounds. And now one Mandarin shoulders poor 
Minerva and her owl into the gutter (as if she were an outer bar- 
barian) ; another apostrophizes the solemn ancient Pluto, with 
" Go long, there, clear ofi", you old critter — wake snakes, will ye," 
and other impressive expostulations, and even the bands of music 
are utterly confounded and commixed. All, however, comes right 
at last, the two comets have met without serious damage, and 
each was seen pursuing its way in its own separate orbit. 

I can not describe to you the beauty of a large magnolia grove 
near this place. This majestic wood reaches nearly down to the 
beautiiul blue bay, and the trees are unspeakably magnificent. 

Madame L. V tells me that when all the splendid flowers 

are out in their full beauty and fragrance, their odoriferous en- 
chantments are beyond all expression. I am told their delicious 
scent is so powerful, that ten miles out to sea, the air is filled with 
the rich perfume I 

We have several times visited the Choctaw camp in company 

with Madame L. V , and in her carriage. These Choctaw 

Indians are a singular people. As to civihzation, poor creatures I 
I can not think that theirs extends beyond wearing old second- 
hand coats when in full dress, and in drinking the hateful " fire- 
water." They have adopted its ughest points, and its vilest; but 
what know they of its advantages and benefits 1 Their mode of 
life in that camp seems pretty nearly as savage as it can be, except 
— and this is, indeed, an improvement — that they no longer go out 
in their horrible war parties, nor do they now depend entirely for their 
subsistence upon the chase. They have in general a certain noble- 
ness of look, and the women are, many of them, very handsome. 
One day an Alabamian, who was not a disciple of " the Mississippi 
of men, the Father of Waters" (Father Mathew) came lounging 



134 TFxAVELS IN AMERICA. 

into their camp. His fiery and inflamed visage, and ruby nose, 
contrasted strangely with tlie calm, stately, finely-tinted features 
of the Indian. The savage, being sober, had then, really, the 
superiority. Apropos of tint : if one had been asked to point out 
the red man, I think the rubicund pale face would have been 
selected. I did not know till I came here that the Indians and 
negroes mutually hate each other. The Indians say the Great 
Spirit made first, Indians, then white men, then dogs, and then 
niggers. 

We have been detained here a long time waiting ibr the " Royal 
Mail ' steamer, which has not made her appearance. Many 
people, besides ourselves, have been watching for her arrival with 
equal anxiety, lor the same cause, namely, intending to go to 
Mexico as passengers in her. 

Lately it has been particularly disagreeable, living this life of 
suspense and looking-out ; for, as the steamer M'as so very much 
after her day, it was expected she would stay the shortest possible 
space at Mobile Point, and the intending passengers were earnestly 
recommended by the "lloyal Mail" agents to be quite prepared to 
start at any time, and in no time. She might arrive in the night, 
and in that case a little more time was to be allowed ; but a mere 
fraction. One was to sleep weasel-fashion with one eye open and 
to keep one's self, as it were, packed and stowed, and locked and 
corded, and carded, all ready tor almost instantaneous departure. 
This became, in fact, a life of perpetual packings and unpackings; 
for anticipating with horror the confusion of a possible night de- 
parture, we had every thing ready every night in case — and then 
all the indispensable things had all to be got out again in the morn- 
ing ; and almost regularly these Avere found to have gone burrow- 
ing down to the bottom of the trunks and carpet-bags, after the 
wont of such indispensable things in general. 

There were constantly flying reports of the steamer being actu- 
ally arrived, and the confusion that ensued then was indescribable I 
By some strange contradiction it appeared as if every thing was so 
ready that nothing could be found — in short, the discovery was 
made that nothing really was ready at all, but the " Royal Mail" 
steamer ; so when this alarm was over, all was to be undone and 
done over again more systematically. The former had been, so 
to say, only playing at packing — a mere rehearsal of preparation, 
but now it must be taken seriously in hand, and you may guess 
the privation of those days. Talk of journeys over deserts — of 
dreadfully severe quarantine regulations — what were they to this 



MR. CLAY. 135 

Tantalus-like state of trial — this slow starvation amid plenty — not 
a book could one allow one's self to take out of the trunk, because 
they were, of course, at the bottom. Writing materials were de- 
nied one — watches were a luxury not to be thought of; not even 
an innocent pair of scissors, or a harmless little pincushion. Ut- 
terly useless would it have been to have purchased other books, 
&c. They must have all submitted to the same despotic necessity, 
which knows no law (not even Lynch-law), and must have been 
without hesitation or commiseration made pitilessly ''ready," 
crammed into groaning boxes, and choking trunks — in fact, we 
were (or we fully believed we were) utterly packed. 

In short, I should have had a most uncomfortable visit to Mobile 

but for my charming friend, Madame L. V , who is one of the 

most delightful people in the world, and with whom we drove out 
almost every day, leaving directions to send all sorts of scouts after 

us in case this truant vessel should arrive. Madame L. V , 

and her mother, Mrs. W , are intimate Iriends of Mr. Clay, 

and I have heard many very interesting anecdotes of him from 
them. A grand-daughter of Mr. Clay is at the Roman Catholic 
convent, near Mobile (she was placed there for her education), and, 
to his regret, she has lately declared her intention of taking the 
vail. I believe Mr. Clay takes great interest in her (her mother, 
his daughter, is dead), and is much grieved at her taking this 
step. 

Madame L. V has a very charming daughter, who is a 

nice companion for V . Two other lovely children Madame 

L. V had the naisfortune to lose, and she has not yet recovered 

the severe shock of their death. We went with her one day to 
the cemetery, where repose her darlings. It is a totally difibrent 
one from that at New Orleans, and very prettily situated. 

1 have at last a prospect of going to Mexico. The new United 
States Minister to that Pk-epublic (whom I have made acquaint- 
ance with at Madame L. V 's house), having written to 

Washington, and represented the inconvenience to which he is 
subjected by this long delay, and the length of time that has 
elapsed without his being able to assume his diplomatic functions 
and conduct various important negotiations, the authorities have 
ordered that a war-steamer shall be "detailed" from Pensacola to 
convey him and his suite to Vera Cruz. He has obligingly invited 
some of the detained passengers to accompany him, and among 

others ourselves. Madame L. V advises us to accept this 

courteous offer, as most likely the English steamer that has been 



13G TKAVKLS IN AiMKKlCA. 



ovcr-(Uio so lonjT will not call hero at all now, and I am ilisposed 
to do so invf'oll'. 

Wo havo had a tK>li<>litl'ul drive again to-day with dear ]\ladamc 

L. V , and saw numbers of the chninpa jjirls rettu'iiiiig from 

tho ]>iuo woods (wliieh are a good many nnh's oil) so laden with 
the ohnmpa (pine) that they could hardly move. 

Que of JMadamo L. V 's slaves is a capital old woman, and 

apparently iiuite an original — "qui no so desorigiuahsera pas," I 
should think now, as she must bo hard upon a liuudred. She 
porleelly remembers A\'asliiuglou, having seen hinr onee driving 
out in a carriage on some great occasion in iidl dress. '' K mighty 
lino man as ebber J seen ; liis head berry white (powder prob- 
ably), he sit np so in de carriage," straigbteniug herself and look- 
ing dignified with all her might, "just like so ; and old Massa he 
in same carriage, dressed up liue too (he was one of Washington's 
family, Judge W.). 1 member all berry well, for little child dying, 
and 1 ran out o" house ami left it, just berry little while, causo 
cherry body say 'Uo see great Cu'ueral \\'ashington' and ainost 
pushy me out for to go see him : little child dymg. but I just van 
to seen him, ami people all halloa and shout berry louil."' She 
gave ns all this inll>rmation in tho most elevated tones, a speak- 
ing-trumpet voice. She had a white turban on, which showed 
oil' her jetty ancient conutenaneo very picturesquely. 

There are (wo portraits of iMadame L. V — 's lovely lost chil- 
dren iu her ihawiiig room. They suggested the lew following 
linos. 

l»iii^ht linoly lioiiigs ! — on eaeli imagoJ laeo, 
More ol'tlu' angol than tlio cliilil we trace — 
More ol'llio iinnunial than tho mortal see, 
111 cneli milil aspect's pioturoil pinity. 

Swopt mother, cheek thy deeply luoiirnful sighs, 
iJfieve not to spare these Seraphs to the skies. 
,\h ! not I'lT them need llmv the hitter tear ; 
Uow hless'd their suuuy late, both Tfure and Hen: 

0\\\ not tor them should sorrow's divps ho shed. 
We scarce can dream they died, scarce tleeni they fled. 
Aromul them seemed to smile, all iVesh and lair, 
A happier world's scrcuer, clearer air. 

■Twns scarce a change — 'twas scarce a second birth, 
More of Klysiimi knew they than of earth? 
From I.ove to Love, from living IJglit to Light. 
How smooth the transit, and how short the tlij;lit ! 



BOSTON AS A COMMERCIAL CITY. 137 

And what to tlicm was Deiith's pnlo kiss of Peace, 
Tluit. liiulo the llultor of life's pulse to cciiso ? 
Thoui^h swil't the stroke, though brief the warniiifr given, 
'Tvvas but a step from siirh a Homo — to Heaven ! 

I believe, besiiles ourselves, Tiord Mark Kerr, (wlio is lately 
come from Canada, where he is aid-de-eaiup to Lord El<^in), and 
Mr. P , United States Consul at Ma/atlan, a Iriend ol" Ma- 
dame L. V 's, are going in the war steamer with (Governor 

L . It is expected to arrive very sliortly here, and wc are all 

quite ready to start, I hope and trust, having subsisted almost 
without the barest necessaries of life, ibr a period of about three 
weeks, in a high state of preparation. The weather has been 
rather unsettled and rough, but looks just now a little more prom- 
ising lor our tiulf voyage. 

But before I bog the reader to accompany me in my departure 
from the United ^States, 1 must detain him with some furtlier re- 
membrances of Boston and New York, to each of which cities, I 
propose devoting a brief chapter. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

Boston as a Coinnicreial City — Its Wharves — Its Shipping — Its Trade — Tho 
India Wharf — .American 15oys — 'I'ho Present and Future of Aniorica — 
The Fashionable (Quarter of l>oston — Aineriean Ladies and Cenllenien — 
Youuii America — iioslon the Metropolis of Railroads — Gallantry and Pa- 
tience of Anieriean Travelers — Fresh Pond — Weiiham Lake lee — Mr. 
Preseott's Town House — Library, and Literary and Pliilosophieal Institu- 
tions in Boston — Its Periodical Literature — Its Charities — Its Patronage 
of the Arts — Power's Sculptures — Freciuency of Fires in Anierieaa Cities 
— General Appearance of Boston. 

Boston seems one of tho busiest cities in the world ; a brief 
visit to the conniiercial quarter will fully satisfy the visitor as to 
that fact. 

Beside its wooden wharves (some of which have durable stone 
fronts) are iimumerable vessels of all dimensions and devices, and 
of every variety of build and rigging. The water is very deep, 
and large ships seem almost leaning (as il' tired, after their long 
1em])cst-tossing, perchance, and weary M'anderings), against tho 
warehouses and ranges of substantial and solid edilices, reserved 
fur commercial uses — Ibr some of the slips run a litlle way into 



138 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

the land. Great numbers of tliese warehouses are crowded along 
the shore; the packets iVom Europe have a convenient slip espe- 
cially set apart tor their accor^nniodation, and exclusive occupation. 
I\Ir. Cunard's steamers have a one thousand I'eet lon£j wluirl'. Al- 
tooetlier, the si^ht is an interesting one ; the eye is almost be- 
wildered with the heterogeneous and ever diversilied scene. 

The coasting trade is said to be three or iour times as great as 
that to ioreigu ports. There is an extreme diirerence perceptible 
in the "naval architecture" of the crowded coasting craft. There 
are stout-looking schooners, which ply between Boston and New 
York, a devious and ditlicult voyage, and some rather Quaker-look- 
ing brigs, somewhat formal and precise, and punctilious in appear- 
ance, that are preparing to run a starched and stitf course, if the 
weather will permit them to do so. to drub-suited Philadelphia. Pass 
on, and you will see the less elaborately iliii^hed craft, which are 
bound lor the Carolina shore, and liir the trading and wealthy 
cities of lar otl" Alabama and Louisiana. '• 'way down south." 
Then there are the lairy, knowing-looking Baltimore cHppers. their 
graceful masts clustered together like a whole dense plantation of 
tall slim walking-sticks for young giants. They are tor the Mon- 
umental City. 

Then immense ste.imers are to be seen, bound for various places, 
that look so light, despite their large size, that a strong putF of 
wind might, peradvonture, lift them " right away"" out of the 
water, to continue their voyage in mid air. If you entered, you 
would ilnd their turniture and appointments such as might have 
tasked the most skilllul looms of Persia, and beggared of their cost- 
liest materials the marts of turthest Ind. 

And that brings me, without lurther digression, to what is called 
the " India wharf"' which is nearly a thousand feet long, and 
about two hundred and lifty feet wide. The richly freighted ships 
from distant llindostan. and jealous China, bring here their many 
treasures : and those vessels, too, that are bound tin- these lavored 
lands, with innumerable wares for their ditterent markets. Wher- 
ever you turn, on all these wharves you lind the bustle of business. 
It would be a ditiicult matter to describe the profusion and super- 
abundance of rattling and lumbering drays and carts, and barrows 
and trucks, the crowds of porters jostling each other, and the 
throngs of the busy dealers and clerks, and superintendents and 
assistants, and consignees on every side, or the strange chaos of 
conmierce seemingly heaving all around you. ^^ hat is there ? 
nay, what is there not I iSalt, sugar, molasses, cotton, calico, mar- 



AMERICAN BOYS. 139 



ble, leathei", silk, flour, coflee, fruits, oil — stowed away in bales, 
barrels, boxes, bags, hogsheads, jars, casks, chests, sacks, and cases, 
till there seems enough to feed, and clothe, and supply half a world 
for a century to come, piled before you. 

I shall beg the reader now to seat himself on Prince somebody's 
carpet, as in the fairy tale, and taking leave of these busy scenes 
(there are, by the way, about two hundred docks and wharves 
altogether, surrounding Boston), lly over some zig-zagging streets 
of huge warehouses, which streets are grim and gloomy enough, 
but of no great length, and over the noisy, reeking Irish quarter, 
which I am told intervenes, and the carpet shall stop the way, for 
a time, in the centre of the city. I have mentioned before, how 
that the sidewalks were turned into counters "of ease," for the 
overflowing, crammed shops; and how they looked as if it had 
actually rained silks and calicoes, and cottons, or as if some of the 
richly-laden ships, had by some magic, been carried into the heart 
of the town, and wrecked almost on tlie door-steps of the stores. 

But look at these newly-arrived hurrying Yankees. They stalk 
over these piles without casting a look to the right or left, with 
their curious boots turned up at the points, something like Turkish 
cimeters (these are not the dandies of Boston, but haply specula- 
tors in some of the ten thousand and one lines which people spec- 
xilate in, throughout these busy regions) ; they have au eager, on- 
looking, straight-forward stare, and a rather vacant, and yet anx- 
ious look, as it they had sent their minds on before them, and their 
bodies were hastening after, and trying, at least, to keep these very 
go-ahead avcnit couriers in view — in short, running alter them as 
well as they could. And* sooth to say, these personages are rather 
cadaverously complexioned ; as is the Avont of bodies no longer 
tenanted by their spiritual occupants. 

Look at that boy, that inannikin, with his hat so knowingly 
on one side, and the Turkish cimeter-like boots and all; he is "a 
dreatlful bright boy," that. You would see him chew and smoke, 
if it was not forbidden in the Trimountain City, and hang his 
nether limbs out of a railroad car (if you met him in one, and if he 
could by possibility lengthen them, so as to contrive so to do) ; or 
he will tell you, perchance, with his tiny squeaking voice, " "We 
air a great })eople, by thunder, the greatest on the airth, and can 
do all things double first-rate, from blowing up a universe and a 
half, if it misbehaves, to blowing half a soap-bubble. Now ; we'll 
put the Atlantic and the racitic in our sido-pockels any day, and 
reduce all Europe to no whar and a grease spot," and so forth : 



140 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

and very soon, not only this species of boasting, tut other ungrace- 
ful bragging (which, though not so broad, is yet sufficiently ex- 
travagant) will be entirely confined to this very young America. 

As this people progress and advance more and more, they will 
o-ain more the humility of true greatness. They will feel more the 
vast responsibilities that rest upon their Titanic shoulders ; they 
will weigh more what stupendous steps they have yet to take — 
what almost incomprehensibly-great destinies are slowly unfolding 
before them ; and these most momentous and grave considerations 
will gradually produce their effects, and at length impress contin- 
ually their views, opinions, works, and even words. They will 
feel more and more that their past and present colossal greatness 
does not make future improvement and progress — as Napoleon's 
renown was said to do of all future fame — impossible, but impera- 
tive — absolutely indispensable. Nature has done so much for 
them, that to be commensurate with her, to keep pace with their 
giant opportunities, they muU act as giants. 

And we must be just, too ; for, verily what would be boasting 
and hyperbolical rhodomontade with others, is the mere simple 
truth often with them. Nature speaks to them in such grandilo- 
quent strains that she sets the example of " tall talking." But I 
must return to " wzes moutotis.'" 

We will take a glimpse at the fashionable quarter of the town. 
Near the Common are a number of very handsome mansions ; and 
in driving or walking along the streets in the neighborhood of it 
you will see many splendid equipages of the merchant princes and 
princesses of old " Shawmut." You will often meet a group of 
graceful ladies (perhaps going to shop in Washington-street), not 
only beautiful, but with countenances of the most intellectual ex- 
pression. From all I hear and see, I believe the Boston ladies 
are particularly accomplished and amiable. 

The gentlemen look like gentlemen — not because they have 
lemon-colored kid gloves, or Parisian boots, but from their whole 
air and manner. As to being merely Xvell-dressed in the cost-and- 
quality-of-material sense of the word, that almost every body is. A 
mob in the United States is a mob in broad-cloth. If we may talk 
of a rabble in a republic, it is a rabble in black silk waistcoats (the 
favorite wear among certain classes in America) and well-brushed 
hats. Therefore, to look really like a gentleman in the United States, 
depends in nowise on the clothes, but entirely on their wearer ; 
and the tailor has less to do with manufacturing a gentleman 
here, than in perhaps any other part of the world. For in all other 



YOUNG AMERICA. 141 



countries you are a little assisted to the conclusion, unwittingly, by 
the dress ; but here not in the least, and you must judge wholly 
by Vair noble et distingKe, or the reverse, of the individual. 

It is very seldom you see any equestrians in these northern 
cities. Every body chooses either to walk or go in carriages. The 
Common is a very agreeable place for promenading ; and there 
you will see a great deal of little America in the shape of pretty 
fairy-like children, enjoying the fresh air with their Irish nurses, 
or their graceful mammas. 

Little America is unhappily, generally, only grown-up Amer- 
ica, seen through a telescope turned the wrong way. The one 
point, perhaps, in which I most concur with other writers on the 
United States, is there being no real child-like children here. The 
little creatures, looking all the time every thing that is infantine 
and unsophisticated, will read novels and newspapers by the hour 
together, and the little boys will give you their opinions dictatori- 
ally enough occasionally; and the little girls " talk toilet," and 
gossip, and descant on the merits of the last French novel, or the 
elegibility of such a imrti for a husband for such a lady ; or on 
the way Mrs. So-and-So misconducts her household affairs, and 
spends money at Newport or Saratoga Springs ; and so far this 
is not pleasing to our English tastes. 

But, nevertheless, there are many very good, and perhaps suffi- 
cient reasons assigned for the necessity that exists in this country 
at present for bringing up their children with a thorough knowl- 
edge of the world. The boys have all an active part to play in 
the mighty drama of busy life on which they are entering — nation- 
ally, politically, socially, or commercially. No drones are admit- 
ted into the great Transatlantic hive. There is no time to spare ; 
they must be ready, as soon as possible, to take their places and 
run in the great race, or they will be distanced by their more agile 
and precocious contemporaneous competitors, and see prize after 
prize borne away by those who had learned their ABC with 
them, or after them. 

The girls are generally married early to husbands in business, 
and have to take care of themselves. They ordinarily live (till a 
competency is acquired and a house bought) at the enormous 
hotels that abound in the State, while their husbands are at their 
desks or counters all day. 

What quantities of omnibuses and hack carriages are plying 
backward and forward from the railroad depots I The trains 
seem going and coming incessantly, for Boston is a sort of metrop- 



J42 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

olis of American railroads : it is the centre of the whole railroad 
system of New England, and from it the iron lines radiate to all 
parts. The star of JMassachusetts is an iron star, and its rays 
shine Avith the far-searching light of progress and power. Canals 
and roads give it countless other additional facilities for intercom- 
munication and self accommodation. 

The New England railroads are in general exceedingly well- 
managed ; but they are not as fast as ours. They have no ex- 
press trains running sixty miles an hour ; but in a few years they 
will, I doubt not. (As to the electric telegraphs in the United 
States they put us entirely to the blush). It has happened to me 
on these railroads to look out of the window, when Ave have stop- 
ped very suddenly, and to see a lady, lounging as slowly as possi- 
ble, parasol in hand, across the rails, evidently rather enjoying 
thus keeping the train waiting till it suited her to dawdle out of 
the way. 

As to the cows, they seem to think the iron road was especially 
intended for them ; but their constant habit of getting in the way, 
and the " cow-catcher," Avhich adorns every train — invented in 
order to convince them of their error — has been so often mention- 
ed, that I will not dwell on the subject. I have heard that the 
railroad sometimes takes a short cut across a church-yard in this 
country, but I never saw an instance of this, nor should I believe 
it. They treat and brave death lightly enough certainly here ; 
but the dead are unilbrmly respected and honored. 

We stopped one day in the " cars" (as they usually call the 
train) about a quarter of an hour, for a newly-married lady, whose 
husband, by some strange absence of mind, thought she had enter- 
ed the car, and jumped in just before the train started. He paced 
up and down, looking for the gentle bride, in vain. At last the 
sympathizing conductor, on being informed of the mistake, had 
the train stopped, and the gentleman ran back and brought the 
lady to the cars ; the passengers all waiting with the greatest 
patience, and acquiescing unmurmuringly in the gallant con- 
ductor's decision ; indeed, many hardly looked up from their news- 
papers, as if it was the most every-day circumstance that had 
happened. 

I have invariably remarked that, eager and go-ahead as they 
are, the Americans are the most philosophically patient travelers 
in the world. You are kept waiting for a cow, or a pig, or an- 
other train coming, or a forgotten wife, and they betray no symp- 
toms of impatience or indignation. The contretemps is borne with 



MR. PRESCOTT'S TOWN HOUSE. 143 

the most inexhaustible stoicism and the most unvanquishable good 
temper. How an Englishman would fume and fret ! 

When we Avere at Cambridge the other day, Ave Avent with Mr. 
and Miss Everett to see Fresh Pond, Avliich in reality supplies, as 
Ave Avere told, England and other parts of the AA'orld Avith the far- 
famed Wenham Lake ice. The water is like liquid diamonds, 
so transparent and sparklingly pure. The scenery around is 
worthy of being mirrored in it. I am told, in the Avinter it is one 
of the gayest scenes in the Avorld. Daring the time of the ice- 
cutting, innumerable sleighs assemble on the spot, and the heav, 
monde of Boston are all to be met there. The clear polished ice 
is cut into blocks, about tAvo-and-tAventy inches square, for which 
operation a machine expressly constructed and invented, is used 
(called the ice-cutter), and it is then covered Avith saw-dust, pack- 
ed, and sent to all quarters of the earth — India and China among 
others. 

We AA'ent to see Mr. Prescott's toAvn-house the other day — a 
very handsome and spacious one, with a large library. He has a 
number of good pictm-es and busts ; among the former, some fine 
ones of Spanish monarchs. Framed and hung up in one of the 
rooms, we saw a portion of the rich lace that adorned the shroud 
of Cortez. 

Boston is, I think, very rich in libraries, both public and private. 
It contributes A-ery largely to the prosperous advancement and 
reputation of native literature, and it has a remarkable number of 
literary and of philosophical institutions. It has some of the most 
valuable periodicals and journals of the country. I have just been 
informed there are fifty Aveekly noAVspapers in Boston, besides six- 
teen daily ones ; but this is only a small part of the periodical lit- 
erature of Boston. 

This mightiest city of New England, therefore, seems to ad- 
vance Avith simultaneous progression in every A^aried Avalk. Un- 
sui'passed — nay, hitherto, in some respects, unriA'^aled — in material 
prosperity and practical development, she sedulously devotes her 
unwearied energies also, to cultivating to the highest point all the 
iliental faculties. The intellectual studies of her inhabitants are 
pursued Avith ardor and vigor ; and on all sides you see evidences 
of this truth, in the numerous and excellent educational establish- 
ments and admirable scientific institutions. 

The instruction of the people is a paramount consideration in 
the public charities, and among the crowded seminaries and 
schools are several most munificently endowed by some of the 



144 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

public-spirited citizens of the Granite City. The arts, too, seem 
to flourish and improve here, and to keep pace with the ceaseless 
march of knowledge and erudition. Music, painting, and sculp- 
ture here exert their exquisite influence and weave their magic 
spells. There is a gallery of sculpture, in which Power's match- 
less works are exhibited ; and though some of the less initiated 
and refined may call the " Greek slave" (as I have read in some 
jocular account of it) " the greatest piece of whittling in the world," 
they appear most sincerely and earnestly to admire it and the 
other beautiful works of art in the saloons. Music, too, is making 
great progress. 

It appears to me that refinement and elevation of taste are ad- 
vancing here as rapidly as science, knowledge, wealth, and pros- 
perity. Those who wish to indulge in any invidious and vitupera- 
tive observations respecting America had better make haste, or 
they will find themselves absolutely compelled to praise and admire 
instead. Not only in Boston but universally in New England the 
habits of the people seem daily becoming more and more polished 
and refined. 

Boston just now is not very full : the greater part of the 
wealthy inhabitants are gone to the watering-places. I find it is 
a custom here sometimes, on going into the countiy, merely to 
turn the key in the lock of the house-door. No domestic is left 
in charge of the vacated building, but it is left to take care of itself 

This city is well lighted. Speaking of lighting, however, I must 
say in America the fires, so frightfully frequent, render gas almost 
a work of supererogation. If you arrive at a town at night, you 
may be pretty sure you will find it illuminated by a convenient 
conflagration ; and though they do not exactly intend to burn 
down their houses to light travelers the better through their 
streets (as extravagant a mode as Charles Lamb tells us was 
adopted in some wild country for pig-roasting before cookery was 
known), yet it really has that effect, as we found from practical 
experience. Boston and the other towns in New England are all 
lighted by gas, but I think the lighting arrangements sometimes 
are a little neglected, and, in some few towns, rather insufficient. 

State-street is a very busy and wealthy-looking street in Boston, 
and Tremont-row, hard by our hotel, is a particularly handsome 
one. But this is altogether a very striking town, although its 
streets are not so regular and wide as those of many smaller towns. 
Boston was planned in old times, when much irregularity prevail- 
ed in the system of city building. Besides this, it is very much 



GENERAL APPEARANCE OF BOSTON. 145 

circumscribed, from its situation on a rather vandykeing Peninsula, 
with a surface far from regular, joined by a mere narrow strip of 
terra Jirma to the main land. In short, the city proper is in con- 
fined and straitened circumstances. It wants some territorial 
acquisitions to increase its accommodation for building-ground, or- 
namental space, &c. If M. Agassiz Avould set his coral insects to 
work, to enlarge and spread the available land around, he would 
confer a signal service on the city, which, nevertheless, is, all 
things considered, a very noble capital. 

Towns and villages in numbers have started up around it, to 
relieve it of its superabundant population, but these offshoots 
hardly add to the stateliness of its appearance. Notwithstanding 
this, it is a "great place," as they say here ; and, as a lady, who 
is not a beauty, often takes more care of her personal appearance, 
and endeavors to rectify and to compensate for the mistakes 
and niggardhness of Nature, by additional attention to various, 
little arts of pleasing — so Boston, disadvantageously situated 
in some few respects for imposing architectural show and sym- 
metrical display, makes amends for these inconveniences and un- 
favorable conditions by the most scrupulous order and cleanliness, 
and the most finished propriety and exquisite management. 
This is one reason, I believe, why it reminds me of a promoted 
Amsterdam — that is, hoisted on a hill — and other towns in Hol- 
land. 

The houses are of granite and brick, and a flight of marble 
steps often conducts you to the hall doors of Boston's hospitable 
mansions. 

G 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Bustle in the Streets of New York — Trinity Churoh — Wall-street — The 
Park — The Sho^is in Bnvidway — Traitio in Broadway — Irish and German 
Emisrants — Wharves of New York — Its Shipping — The Astor House Ho- 
tel — The Exohanire — The Custom House — Theatres — The Ciiv Hail — 
The Chair of Washinjitou — Churches — Benevolent, Literary, anil Scienti- 
fic Institutions — Si|uarcs, Mansions — Foreiirners in New York — Syrojvithy 
betwe^i America and Russia — Tliose two Nations — Anecdote of an Amer- 
ican in Russia — Pearl-street — Militarj- Companies in New York — The 
Militia — The Firemen — The Electric Telegraph in America — The Bat- 
tery — The Halls of Justice — The Bower)-. 

New Yokk is certainly altogether the most hustling, cheerful, 
lifetal, restless city I have yet seen iu the United States. Nothing 
and nobody seem to stand still for halt" a moment in New York ; 
the multitudinous omnibuses, which drive like insane vehicles tVom 
morning till night, appear not to pause to take up their passengers, 
or it is so short a pause, you have hanlly time to see the stoppage, 
like tlie instaiitaneousness of a llash of lightning. How on earth 
the people get in or out of them. 1 do not know : the man behind 
sun4y must sometimes shut a person half in and half out. and cut 
them iu two, but neither he nor they have time to notice such 
trifles. You see them thrust, and shoved, and pushed, and cram- 
med through the hastily opened door, as if they were the merest 
"live lumber." 

Empty or full, these omnibuses seem never to go slower. I 
have seen dozens upon dozens of them .go by perfectly empty, but 
just as much in a hurry, tearing and dashing along, as if full of 
people too late for the train. 

You almost wonder at the houses standing still in New York, 
and begin to think them rather slow and behind the age. You 
feel surprised they are not built on wheels. I did hear, indeed, of 
whole suburban streets lieing removed, the other day. to a more 
eligible situation on rollers, or sometliing of that kind — but I will 
not vouch for the fact. 

New York has been so often and so minutely described, that I 
shall not dwell on the details of its plan, situjition. or appearance. 
I will only mention a few points that struck me. Perhaps the 
building I was the mcst pleased with in New York is the Trinity 



SHOPS IN BROADWAY. 147 

Chinch. 1 do not protbss to understand ecclesiastical architecture, 
but it" one of its perlections be the raising the thoughts and con- 
templations from earth to heaven, then must Trinity Church be 
deserving of the highest commendation. Its spire is unspeakably 
beautiful (three hundred feet high), and almost seems to pierce the 
sky. like a flash of retorted lightning. It is situated on the Avest- 
ern side of Broadway, exactly opposite the entrance of "Wall-street 
into it. Wall-street is the busiest street in New York, and answers 
to our Lombard-street in London. 

The park is pretty, but too small for such a city as New York. 
It has a beautiful fountain, and is splendidly illuminated at night 
by thousands of lamps. There are numerous superior shops in 
Broadway, but the most pi'e-eminently magnificent is " Stewart's ;" 
it is oue of the finest structures I ever saw, its front being com- 
posed entirely of white marble. Mr. Stewart is going to add im- 
mensely to this splendid store, and it will occupy almost as much 
space as the Palazzo Doria at Rome. 

Crowds of carriages, private and public, are to be seen in 
Broadway, passing and re-passing every moment, filled with 
ladies, beautifully dressed, in the most elaborate Parisian toilets. 
Among the thousands of fashionable promenaders who are throng- 
ing the side-walks, there is often to be seen, a group of Irish or 
German emigrants, just as they have come from the crowded 
packets, the latter looking very picturesque, with their national 
costume. I saw the other day, a large party of these poor people. 
They looked like Bavarian peasants, and they, as well as several 
pudding-like children who accompanied them, seemed struck with 
\ittcr astonishment, at the noise and incessant bustle of animated 
Broadway. The carriages scampered by as if all New York was 
going to turn out and leave them in undisputed possession. Tliey 
looked so bewildered, that I fancied they were perhaps come from 
some of the quiet hamlets I have seen by the side of the Danube, 
where time and the river seem to flow by with equal calmness. 

But look a little beyond that German group. From what part 
of the world do those most extraordinary masqueraders come 1 
One has got only half a hat, another, two joined in one, and their 
habiliments are marvelously grotesque. Their hair, in some in- 
stances, hangs nearly on their shoulders, in others it radiates away 
very respectfully from the skull, as if controlled by some mysterious 
centrifugal force of the brain Avithin. In the name of fortune, 
whence are they ? They look intelligent, resolute, self confident 
— in the name of fortune, indeed I for perhaps these men, at the 



148 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

moment you are half pitying them, half wondering at their forlorn 
and destitute appearance, are worth millions of money, and tomor- 
row, they will shine out in all the splendor of a New York exqui- 
site's toilet. They are returned Culifornians, just landed, come 
to enjoy in " the States," the golden fruits of their toils, their perse- 
verance, and their industry. 

The wharves of New York, during the business season, are 
densely lined with the shipping of every maritime country under 
the sun. Merchantmen of every size are there, and for at least 
three miles, they present an uninterruptedly continued I'orest of 
masts, and cordage, commingling, apparently, with the chimneys 
of almost innumerable steamers. More than a thousand sailing 
vessels, nearly a hundred steamers, about eighty tow-boats, and two 
hundred canal-boats, may usually be ibund in the noble harbor of 
New York, during the busy time of the year. In the severest 
winter, this harbor is never obstructed by ice, so that vessels are 
not inconvenienced on that account. 

I have already mentioned the magnificence of the New York 
hotels, but must just add, that the enormous Astor House not only 
is said to be I'uruished with its own private printing press for 
striking off the diurnal bills of fare, but it also makes all its own 
gas. However, it does not yet, I believe, manufacture its own 
linen or plate I 

The Merchants' Exchange I was much struck with. It has a 
glorious portico, formed by a towering and imposing colonnade, the 
shafts of whose noble Ionic columns are separately composed of 
enormous blocks ol' granite. We entered the great room, and were 
amazed at its magnificent proportions. It is a rotunda, and of 
vast diameter, adorned with high marble Corinthian columns. 

Beyond this, at the corner of Nassau and Wall-streets, is the 
Custom House for the port of New York. It is two hundred feet 
long, ninety feet Avide, and eighty feet high, and is constructed 
wholly of superb white marble : the form is that of a Grecian tem- 
ple of the l")oric order of arehitecturo. The IVont looking to Wall- 
etreet disj)lays an innnensely broad and lofty llight of steps, also of 
white marble. I understand it has a second similar front ou a 
street at the back, which runs parallel to Wall-street (Pine-street, 
I believe). Each I'rout has a noble portico. It is made fire-proof 
throughout, huge slabs of marble covering the whole roof. 

The great hall of business is a rotunda, sixty feet in diameter, 
with recesses and galleries, making it eighty feet. It has an elabo- 
rately stuccoed dome, supported by sixteen Corinthian column^. 



NEW YORK THEATRES. 149 

The Custom House is built on the site of the Old City Hall, in 
the open gallery of which Washington was inaugurated first 
President of the United States. 

There are numerous theatres in New York. We visited none 
of them, so I can not describe their internal appearance and 
accommodations. One, called the Park Theatre, is exactly opposite 
the Astor House. Not Ikr beyond the Park Theatre stands a 
rather gloomy and unattractive building : it is called Tammany 
Hall, and is the place Avhere the Loco Focos are (or were) wont 
to assemble. Still a little further up, and within the area of the 
Park, stands, beautifully situated, the City Hall. Its front eleva- 
tion is of white marble, and is ornamented with pilasters and 
columns of the Corinthian, Ionic, and Composite orders, rising one 
above the other in regular gradation. In the Common Council 
Room is a chair (which is still used by the President), that Wash- 
ington sat in when he presided over the first American Congress, 
which assembled in New York. 

From the cupola that surmounts the building, a view of the 
whole vast city is commanded ; and in this there is a clock ; and 
there is also an apartment constantly occupied, night and day, by 
a watchman, whose office it is to keep a perpetual look-out for 
fires, and to give the alarm, by striking an enormous bell which 
hangs in a belfry in the rear of the cupola, and which is exclu- 
sively used for this purpose. By this bell the man watches with 
a hammer in his hand, ready to give the necessary notice when he 
observes the least indication of fire. The sound can be heard from 
one end of the city to the other, and is almost instantaneously re- 
sponded to by a hundred others in every direction. The number 
of strokes indicates the particular ward. 

There are nearly three hundred churches, I believe, in this city. 
There are a considerable number of excellent Literary, Benevolent, 
and Scientific Institutions. Some of the squares of New York 
are very handsome. Washington-square is prettily laid out with 
walks, and shaded with flourishing trees. Union-square has a 
fountain in the centre, and is inclosed with a handsome iron fence. 
St. John's Park is also embellished with a fountain, and adorned 
with trees. 

Some of the private mansions in New York have quite an im- 
posing and palatial appearance, and are very magnificently fur- 
nished. All the States have their representatives in the crowded 
and ever-animated thoroughfares of this populous city — nay, I 
might say, indeed, so have almost all the nations of the earth. 



150 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

The French appear to muster numerically stronger than any- 
other people, but this arises irom the fact, that nearly all the New 
Yorkers are accoutred in Parisian costume. Their very hair is 
cut and combed, and their beards trimmed and clipped strictly a 
la Frajigaise, which does not in general improve their personal 
appearance. Looking merely to the people, you might often fancy 
yourself in the Boulevards, instead of in Broadway. An reste, 
Germans, Swedes, Poles, Italians, and hosts of others meet you at 
every turn. There are but few Bussian visitors here it seems ; 
but I am very much struck by the apparant entente cordials that 
exists between Russia and the United States. There seems aa 
inexplicable instinct of sympathy, some mysterious magnetism at 
work, which is drawing by degrees these two mighty nations into 
closer contact. Napoleon, we know, prophesied that the world, 
ere long, would be either Cossack or Republican. It seems as if 
it would first be pretty equally shared between these two giant 
powers. 

I can not resist dwelling a little on this interesting subject. 

Russia is certainly the grand representative of despotic prin- 
ciples, as the United States are the representatives of democratic 
ones. How is it that these antagonistic principles, embodied in 
those two mighty governments, allow them to be so friendly and 
cordial toward one another ? In the first place, the Emperor 
Nicholas is a very far-seeing and astute politician ; he keenly feels 
all the benefits that may accrue to him from cultivating the best 
possible understanding with the United States. He has deep and 
prolbuud motives for this, which if he lives long enough, time will 
gradually develop, to the astonishment of many, perhaps, who 
ought to be moi'e alive to the signs of the times than they are ; 
and in the second place, there is a sympathy between those ap- 
parently dissimilar countries. 

Russia and the United States are the two young, growing, giant 
nations of the world — the Leviathans of the lands ! They enjoy 
extraordinary advantages ; the older nations seem to have paved 
and prepared the path before them. Around the footsteps of either 
living and far-striding colossus, science and knowledge have shed 
the most surprising light ; the most astounding and marvelous 
and momentous discoveries have been made ; the most useful 
triumphs aehieved. Man almost seems a second time to have 
been hailed master of the creation — civilization has penetrated the 
uttermost corners of the eartli — time and space and the lightning 
are his familiars and lys servants. ^\'ith all these advantages, 



PRESENT AND FUTURE OF AMERICA. 151 

those two grand young nations are strong to the race, and fresh to 
the glorious contest. Far off, in the future, centuries and ages 
beyond this present hour, is their culminating point. What to 
other nations may be work and labor, to them is but, as it were, 
healthful relaxation, the exercising of their mammoth limbs, the 
quickening of the mighty current of their buoyant and bounding 
life-blood, the conscious enjoyment of their own inexhaustible 
vitality. 

There is much similarity, in short, in the position of those two 
vast powers. The extraordinary increase in the United States of 
wealth, of territory, of population, and the wondrous opening of 
fresh avenues, and new approaches incessantly to mightier domin- 
ion, greater influence, and vaster resources, are known to all ; but 
though assuredly not even remotely approximating to the United 
States, in the advancement of mental energies and intelligence, or 
m commercial enterprise and facilities, or manufacturing capabili- 
ties, or even in the thousand practical manifestations of civiliza- 
tion, and internal improvements, and progressive material pros- 
perity and development, yet Russia is making immense strides, 
too, on her part. Her population has increased to sixty millions ; 
she is beginning to develop her gigantic resources ; her physical 
power is stupendous and paramount; her internal condition flour- 
ishing and apparently stable. She is strong in her geographical 
position, protected to the rear by Nature herseli" — by inhospitable 
Wildernesses and world-wide barriers of ice — thus she can unhesi- 
tatingly afl'oi'd to fling her whole Titan strength and force into the 
van. Her foreign policy is most energetically administered, as 
well as most skillfully and successfully conceived. 

She has plenty of time, too, before her — she can watch and she' 
can wait. She is conciliating those who would seem to be her 
natural enemies ; economizing, for the present, her interference ; 
consolidating her energies and means ; improving her opportunities, 
and placing herself, move by move, in the most formidable attitude, 
both for olfense and defense, and playing the mightiest and the 
most magnificent game that perhaps has ever yet been played on 
earth. 

Still there is, undoubtedly, the greatest possible difference be- 
tween her and America. The former is constantly watching other 
nations, adapting herself to meeting and confi'onting their policy, 
waiting to snatch, to seize, and to conquer. Her chief energies 
seem to have an outward tendency — an outward direction. In 
America, on the contrary, those noble energies have a more cen- 



152 TRAVELS li\ AMERICA. 

tral action. She is ever occupied in incalculably important in- 
ternal improvements ; her gloi'ious task is of a more domestic kind. 
In her own vast regions are her giant powers perpetually at work, 
advancing, perfecting, enriching, and strengthening I Her internal 
intercomnumications, her extension of navigation and commerce, 
her expanding manufacturing industry demand the most incessant 
attention. The most carefully finished touches are sedulously giA'Cu 
to the comprehensive machinery by which is regulated, in various 
modes, to a certain extent, the momentous schemes and enterprises 
of that speculating, industrious, active-minded community. All 
that concerns their privileges, their well-being, their personal rights, 
attracts the most deep and mnvearied interest ; while reforms, skill- 
fully adapted to the spirit of the age — such as measures for the 
attainment of a more speed}' and efficient administration of justice ; 
the revision and amelioration of divers laws and systems ; the 
establishment of harmony between conflicting and antagonistic 
interests; and, above all, increased provisions for the happiness, 
through munificently-enlarged opportunities for the enlightenment 
and education of the people, have occupied, and do occupy, her 
indefatigable politicians, aclministrators, and citizens. 

She has nothing to do wil!i. or to gain from intrigues of diplo- 
macy and IMachiavelian mar'nuations of policy. Her stupendous 
work is at home, but her iii.'.uence is felt to the furthest ends of 
the earth, and her shadoAV is t;preading IVom jiole to pole. Like a 
colossal tree, she »taii.df, and tinnly stands, while she grows and 
spreads, and her roots are deepening ■\^ hile her branches are ex- 
panding. 

Nay, she is framing additional supports, new stems and trunks, 
like the Indian banyan, so that, while uprearing her glorious bulk 
and stature iu height, she is ever multiplying her props and her 
foundations. 

Russia is anxious to foment contentious and jealousies between 
other nations, lor lier own ulterior purposes and profit. America 
would merely incline toward a constitutional propagandism, and 
that cluelly from a generous desire felt by all her people, from her 
loftiest statesman to her lowliest citizen — that others should par- 
ticipate in what, with a thorough straightforward conscientious- 
ness, they firmly believe to be the most precious of benefits and 
advantages — their free institutions and popular forms of political 
organization. 

If Cauiula (and that is certainly not a very unlikely event) 
should be annexed at any future time to the United States, the 



AMERICA AND RUSSIA. 153 

latter and Russia would be adjoining countries. The two grand 
extremes woukl meet. Despotism and democracy would shake 
hands over a rivulet, and smile at each other across a footpath. 

Russia is determined to be on the best possible terms with the 
United States at any rate, and I have been over and over again 
impres.scd with that conviction, since I have been in America ; 
and that the latter takes her flattery — her complimentary cordial- 
ity, and gentle insidious advances very kindly, is most plainly 
evident. 

The empire of" the Czar is wonderful certainly ; but how much 
it seems dwarfed when compared with America I Its progression 
is chiefly or wholly in physical advancement ; but that of the 
United States is in both material and mental aggrandizement. 
Russia will leave no methods untried, to attach the United States 
to her interests — to insure at least her complete neutrality, in the 
event of contingencies, Avhich her telescopic view steadily contem- 
plates, and her mighty hand ever labors to hring about. She has 
no desire whatever to try her strength against the rival young 
giant — to wrestle (like the mighty athletes of old) with that tre- 
mendous competitor, in the Amphithcati'c of Nations, for the edi- 
flcation of tlie world. She knows the prophecy, and has some 
faith in it, but is bent on substituting (for a time at all events) 
" ancr' for " or J' The world may be shared, may he Cossack and 
Repubhcan. She positively will be modestly content, for a sea- 
son, with only half a world. A Cossack hemisphere may hob and 
nob in a iriendly manner with a republican one, over the conquer- 
ed empires of earth and of the ocean. 

I have spoken of Russia watching ; America watches too, but 
unlike the contemporaneous colossus, it is more the powerful pul- 
sations of her own mighty heart tliat draw her regards. If all is 
right theix, the future is at her feet and she knows it. And she 
has occasion to watch, for more reasons than one ; for there are 
symptoms of grave disorder threatening there, and strange signs of 
the dissolution of the great federal compact. Nothing more con- 
vinces the uninitiated stranger of this fact, than the incessant de- 
nunciations thundered against disunion, the accumulated protesta- 
tions and manifestations and deprecations, all to the same eliect. 
I think they exaggerate the evil that would arise, in the event of 
dissolution, but the subject is too deep for discussion here. 

After this long prose, I can not resist repeating an amusing 
anecdote I heard the other day, relative to an American in Rus- 
sia. This gentleman had a great wish to see the Czar, and asked 

G* 



154 TRAVELS IX A:MERICA. 

the United Slates minister to procure him an introduction ; but 
the public receptions were over, and the minister told him it was 
impracticable. Somewhat indignant, and resolved to test the as- 
sumed impracticability, the traveler addressed a letter to one of 
the Emperor's aids-de-camp, I believe, and solicited an interview 
with his Imperial Majesty, as he had " brought some acorns from 
the grave of the great Washington, expressly to lay at the Empe- 
ror's feet, well knowing how the character of the mighty liberator 
was appreciated," See. Success crowned his efforts ; he had the 
interview he desired, and not only that, but he dined with the 
Czar, and the following day was invited to drive out with him, 
and had the pleasure of passing the United States minister while 
seated by the side of the mighty Nicholas, and of making him a 
very patronizing bow as he dashed by in the imperial carriage ; 
so runs the story. 

Pearl-street, a labyrinthine street in New York, which is said to 
have been originally built by the Dutch, along a cow-track, is a 
very zig-zagging thoroughfare indeed. One would really almost 
think the Dutch cows had taken to drinking draughts, not of 
water " as deep as the rolling Zuyder-zee." It is very narrow, 
and the houses are very high, like those in Old Edinburgh ; waves 
and billows of merchandise of every description and denomination 
seem pouring over from the brimming stores and warehouses, into 
the inconveniently narrow street. If you were in Paris, you 
might think the street had been purposely obstructed with stub- 
born barricades ; but there are no cnfans de la patric, with pikes 
and muskets to oppose your progress behind them. So if you can 
climb like a cat, or twist yourself about like a serpent, or a slip- 
pery eel, you have every chance of surmounting those costly and 
peaceful obstacles to your progress. 

Look at those two tall Kentuckians, with their tufted chins, 
somewhere about seven feet " above snakes ;" they can take a few 
of the interposing calico-mountains and cotton pyramids in their 
stride, but at last even they must stop and scramble over or 
through with difficulty and exertion. Like Damocles' sword too, 
over your head, are suspended from high cranes threatening loads, 
that would soon pulverize you out of your difficulties, and reduce 
you to verj' convenient dimensions, if they chanced to tumble upon 
you. 

There are a great number of military companies in New York, 
and some of them are really very martial-looking indeed. I am 
told there is a company of Highlanders, formed by the sons of far 



TARGET COMPANIES. 155 

Caledonia ; and there are German, French, Italian companies, 
&c. There are a number of target companies, each known by 
some particular name — usually, I believe, that of a favorite leader 
who is locally popular among them. Others take their appella- 
tion from some celebrated historical character, and others from 
any thing that happens to occur to them, it would seem. 

A few of them are " The "Washington JMarket Chowder Guard" 
(chowder is a famous dish in the United States), " Bony Fusi- 
leers," " Pea-nut Guard," "Sweet's Epicurean Guard" (surely 
these must be confectioners), " George K. Jackson and Company's 
Guard," "Nobody's Guard," "Oregon Blues," "Tenth Ward 
Light Guard," " Carpenter Guard," " First Ward Magnetizers," 
" Tompkins' Butcher Association Guard," "Mustache Fusileers," 
" Henry Rose Light Guard," " Atlantic Light Guard," " Junior 
Lidependence Guard," and multitudes of others. 

The militia numbers about one hundred companies, which com- 
prise six thousand men. The Target Conipauies are said not to 
fall short of ten thousand men. I am informed that the passion 
of arms is beginnin<i to manifest itself very much here, and the 
youths are not happy till they are enrolled in some of those bands. 
It is said that thousands of the boldest spirits in the Mexican cam- 
paign, who were ever in the van, and at the post of danger, rush- 
ing to the cannon's mouth with fiery valor, and storming, with 
irresistible intrepidity, the strongholds of the enemy, were those 
who had figured in such "Target Companies" as these. 

Generally a target, profusely decorated with flowers, is carried be- 
fore the company, borne on the stalwart shoulders of a herculean 
specimen of the African race, to be shot at for a prize, or for glory, 
and the "bubble reputation" alone. On its return from the excur- 
sion and practice, the target will display many an evidence of the 
unerring skill and markmanship of the young and gallant corps. I 
remarked before, that it is supposed that the love and desire of 
military distinction is increasing. In corroboration of this, I find 
it observed in one of their papers, that the American boy, after 
delightedly firing off his pistol or his minature cannon, on " Inde- 
pendence Day," or other national anniversaries and festivals, in 
commemoration of particular events, rests not now on his budding 
laurels till he becomes a member of one of these Target Compa- 
nies. Fired with youthful patriotism, and glowing with a boyish 
ambition, he desires ardently in some way to distinguish himself 
among his fellow-striplings ; and, ouce admitted as a member, he 
strives hard to attain the post of lieutenant or captain among his 



156 • TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

companions in arms. Subsequently he aspires to join a more 
regular militia corps ; but it is said, there are many instances where 
their devotion to the Target Company, which originally inspii'ed 
them with military enthusiasm is so strong, that they will not de- 
sert its ranks for those of the most brilliant and best-appointed 
militia company in New York. There are so many of those en- 
rolled bands, that they and the omnibuses share the honor of fill- 
ing, and rousing the echoes of busy Broadway. 

I hear that some of the best and finest of their organizations are 
formed out of the fire companies, Avho thus take upon themselves 
a twofold responsibility, the protection of the property and lives of 
the citizens liom a most lormidable and merciless foe, and the ren- 
dei'ing themselves capable of discharging the patriotic duty of 
crushing any enemy to their institutions that may threaten the 
country, either domestic or foreign. NoAvhere, on the earth, I 
should think, are such numerous and splendid bodies of firemen ; 
and in no place under the sun, or moon, I honestly think, have 
they such extensive, incessant, and unlimited practice. And what 
men in the world ought to make such admirable warriors as fire- 
men ? At all times, but especially at the dead hour of midnight, 
forced to leave their homes at a moment's notice, to start from 
slumber, alter, perhaps, a day of wearying toil and harassing vex- 
ations — to confront the direst extremes of cold and heat — to brave 
the "pitiless pelting"' of the storm — to face the raging element, 
that is their remorseless and tremendous antagonist — to dare al- 
most every imaginable peril without the prospect of reward, or of 
promotion, or even of renown and glory — they should certainly 
make heroes, when fame and victory beckon them proudly on- 
ward. 

They are trained, loo, to strict discipline ; taught to obey every 
word of command of their superiors, and to act together in con- 
cert, and it may be imagined tliey would prove gallant candidates 
for glory in the iield. Ofieu the lieutenants and captains of the 
Target Companies are artisans, laborers, clerks, and mechanics. 
The companies elect their oiiicers, and constantly without the 
least favor — I borrow the expression of an American writer — 
shown '■ to class, or rank, or wealth." The man who is most 
distinguished by these advantages, frequently shoulders his musket 
as a private ; and yet he may most largely subscribe to the com- 
pany's expenses for yearly "excursions,"' and other contingencies 
and needs. 

I have already mentioned tlie number of the electric telegraphs 



THE BATTERY. 157 



in America. I must just add, that on one particular occasion the 
New York Herald (ou the oth ol" January, 1818), contained ten 
closely printed columns of important matter, that had all been re- 
ceiv^ed during the preceding evening and night over the wires. 
The entire length of the electric hues in the United States, which, 
indeed, bring within speaking limits nearly every portion of this 
vast Union, is stated on fair authority to be ten thousand seven 
hundred and twelve miles, of which three thousand and six hun- 
dred miles are traversed by double wire ; but while I am writing, 
more are probably comjileted. Indeed, if it is not an Irish bull, 
I should say, that in order to keep pace with what is going on in 
this indefatigable country, this unparalleled hive of industry and 
intelligence, you should go far ahead; and if I had boldly said 
fifteen thousand miles, perhaps I should have been nearer the 
truth by the time my words are read. 

The Americans, from what I hear, are remarkably expert oper- 
ators on the electric wires — those slender threads that are, with- 
out doubt, charged with the mighty task of revolutionizing and 
incredibly elevating the intellectual and mental condition of the 
whole inhabited world. 

One of the most charming appendages to New York is the Bat- 
tery, which is close to Delmonico's Hotel (where we are now stay- 
ing). It is situated at the commencement of Broadway, that 
lengthy Mississippi of streets ; and it is adorned with a profusion 
of noble trees, some of very large size, and is laid out in broad 
graveled Avalks, commanding a charming view of the harbor, and 
its very ornamental islands, of the almost innumerable vessels con- 
stantly arriving and departing, and of the adjacent fair shores of 
New Jersey, and of Staten, and Long Island. There are grass- 
plats in the Battery, all of which are intersected with paths and 
walks, and overshadowed by trees, that look like veterans of the 
primeval forest. It is not a very fashionable promenade, but this 
arises probably from its being so lixr from the fashionable streets 
and squares of the city. 

When the fa'st steamer that ever crossed the Atlantic arrived 
at New York, the Battery is said to have presented a most heart- 
stirring and majestic spectacle. The " Sirius" was the name of 
this precursor ol' all the magnilicent steam Leviathans that have 
followed in her triumphant path. The moment it was reported 
that her shadowy flag of smoke was seen floating in the direction 
of the Narrows, the hundreds of thousands of citizens of New 
York, aroused and excited to the utmost by the announcement of 



158 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

an event so congenial to their energetic natures and zealous, enter- 
prising temperaments, rushed with simultaneous impetuosity to the 
Battery to greet the triumphant stranger. Instead ot" the " Sirius" 
ascending the East River directly to dock, she passed the thronged 
Battery, as in graceliil and grateful acknowleilgment of the sym- 
pathy and breathless interest shown in her success, and swept 
grandly past it again, close to the densely-lined shore, while the 
air was literally rent by the enthusiastic shouts and deafening hur- 
rahs of thousands and thousands of people, proclaiming how a 
noble victory had been gained — a victory wnthout bloodshed, or 
suiTering, or loss, or sorrow, to any single being, but of profit and 
incalculable benefit to the Avhole race of mankind, and the unborn 
myriads of the most distant posterity. May these be the victories 
that in future may blaze Avith all the pomp of glory, and all the 
festive splendor of success — victories that, instead of severing na- 
tions and people, shall unite them in bands of universal brother- 
hood ! 

There is no frowning artillery here to make the Battery agree 
with its warlike name — no mighty walls, no upheaved mounds. 
It was once, I believe, applied to the use its name points out, but 
has been entirely dismantled, and looks the very abode of peace 
and repose. So in due course of time may all the earth Avitness 
one grand disarmament and dismantling of all her warlike sti'ong- 
holds, and Reason and Justice reign paramount I 

Speaking of justice, there is one very gloomy-looking building 
in New York, called " The Halls of Justice." The architecture 
professes to be Egyptian, and the edifice is built of a rather dark- 
colored granite, quarried at Hallowell iu JMaine. Its architectu- 
ral ponderous massiveness, combined with the sombre hue of the 
material, gives the building a truly prison-like aspect, and has 
caused' it to obtain the sobriquet of " The Tombs." It occupies a 
square, bounded by Centre, Elm, Franklin, and Leonard streets. 

New York, as a whole, strikes one as unlike every city ever be- 
held before. The cosmopolitanism of her citizens, the extraordi- 
nary stir and bustle and tumult of business going on perpetually — 
the heterogeneous compounds, and kaleidoscopical varieties pre- 
sented at every turn, bewilder and surprise the traveler. 

Besides the ever-teeming tumultuous Broadway, there is another 
street that deserves, perhaps, especial mention in any description 
of New York, and tliat is the Bowery, a complete business street, 
which also traverses longitudinally the city. This street has been 
aptly named the Holborn of the empire city of the West. It 



VERA CRUZ BY MOONLIGHT. 159 

runs parallel to Broadway, and changes its title of street for the 
more rural appellation of " Avenue," when it leaves the town be- 
hind it. 

I have mentioned the East River, and ought perhaps to add, 
that it is a continuation of Long Island Sound on the east, unit- 
ing it with the estuary of the Hudson, and separating Long Island 
from New York. It is of scanty width, but deep, and at particu- 
lar states of the tide it has a very heavy current. Long Island 
Sound (or one part of it, I am not quite certain which portion) is 
called the Hell Gate, which name is a corruption of the old name, 
Hurl Gate. 



CHATTER XXV. 

Vera Cruz by Moonlight — The "Walker" Steamer — The new Minister to 
Mexico — Lord Mark Kerr's cxqui.sitc Drawings — Scenes on Deck — Love 
of Music of the Americans — The Aspect of Vera Cruz — Effects of a 
Norther — Sopilotes — Their Functions and Appearance — The Castle of St. 
Juan D'Ulloa — The Harbor of Vera Cruz — Its Commerce — Its Founda- 
tion — The German Housekeeper — Her polyglot Stories — The Alameda 
— Vast Number of laden Mules — Departures for Mexico — Vera Cruzian 
Watchmen — Dresses of the Vera Cruzians. 

We landed at Vera Cruz by the most magnificent moonlight I 
think I ever beheld. A huge arch of dazzling silver sparkled over- 
head, and all beside seemed floating in one vast silvery sea : any 
place must have looked beautiful so deluged with splendor, and 
certainly Vera Cruz did ; her defects were really dazzled away, 
and her beauties all glorified and increased a hundred fold. 

We had a very rough passage of about ten days in the survey- 
ing steamer " Walker," of the United States Navy. She was 
very foul, which prevented her making a rapid passage, and the 
weather was against her. Every thing was done to render us as 
comfortable as possible. We had a charming and large cabin, 
and a delightful collection of books was placed at our disposal. 
The " Walker" is reckoned the most rolling vessel in the whole 
United States Navy, and she gave us during our voyage a great 
deal more than a touch of her quality. 

Our kind and excellent friend Governor L , the minister to 

Mexico, had never been at sea before in his life, and it was not to 
be expected he should find tins tremendous tossing about very 



I(i0 TRAVELS IN AMERUW. 



pleasant. Naturally enough he was constantly thinking we were 
all showing, like Falstafl", a marvelous ahierity in sinking ; he 
suflered much too, from the horrible onal dc vier. But, notwith- 
standing all this, his unalterable good-humor ueA^er failed him, 
nor his wish to see every body comfortable around him, however 
uncomfortable he was himself; and very seldom did his almost in- 
exhaustible good spirits forsake hun. Sometimes when in the 
inidst of one of his entertaining stories, laughing and making all 
laugh, the frolicking steamer, as if enjoying the joke, would seem 
to be contemplating standing on her head, he would suddenly re- 
gain his gravity in one sense, while he lost it in another. But 
generally he was the life and soul of the ship : though it must be 
confessed the "Walker"' did not exactly fly, the time did. 

We had Lord M. Kerr's magnificent drawings to look at, and 
his richly-stocked portfolio beguiled many an hour. He is not 
only a most gifted but a most industrious and indefatigable ama- 
teur artist ; many of his drawings are most elaborately and ex- 
quisitely finished, and their number and variety are prodigious. 
Here you might luxuriate among the magical beauties of queenly 
Granada, and bask in the sunny and fairy-like courts of the match- 
less Alhambra ; and there the snowy winter scenes of Canada 
Avould make you almost feel the freshness of the keen clear air, 
so exquisitely delineated Avere they ; and there again you had 
the glowing tropical scenery of the W^est Indies to feast your eyes 
upon. 

The weather, after the first iav^ days, began to be exceedingly 
warm. The passengers spent almost all their time upon deck, lor 
most of the cabins below were very close, and hot ; ours was an 
exception to this ; we had a very large sky-light, which was of 
course, always wide open when possible, and the magnificent 
American flag was thrown lightly over the opening to shield us 
from the intense glare of the sun. 

On deck, what scenes tragi-comical are ever going on ! To be 
sure, all decks in rough weather present pretty nearly the same 
spectacles ; yet, like the fun of Punches and puppet shows, it 
seems an untiring species of drollery. Look at that tall gentle- 
man ; he appears trying hard to learn to walk on his own nose, 
which is certainly, though not otherwise than a handsome one, 
quite sufficiently pointed perhaps, and projecting ; but he does not 
wish other people should do so too — no, that would be expecting 
quite too much of the poor nasal organ aforesaid. But that very 
stout gentleman seems to intend it nevertheless, nay, to be very 



GALE AT SEA. IGl 



seriously determined on doing this ; but stay I the nose rolls sud- 
denly one way and the very stout gentleman the other ; the 
threatened feature is safe for this time. Then they go boun- 
cing along by fits and starts, and performing insane ko-tooings to 
nobody, and catching tight hold of nothing, and swinging round 
sometimes in a wild partnerless waltz. A reel is of cosmopolitan 
constitution on board ship, and the Scotch can claim no monopoly 
of it — all are dancing it like mad in general. 

Governor L , when not incapacitated by the mal de mer, 

zig-zagged about to the utmost capacities of the " Walker," and 
nothing daunted, boldly attempted to walk whenever there was 
the least possibility of performing that most extraordinary of all 
imaginable feats, on board a rolling vessel on a rough sea. He 
wisely caught hold of every thing to steady him that happened to 
be nearest, and made handles and temporary sheet-anchors, of 
heads, ankles, benches, bonnets, boots, heels, hats, cabin-boys, car- 
pet-bags, throats, ringlets, wide-awakes, elbows, and chins, and in 
short, whatever came handy, dragging himself on thus with the 
most philosophical indifference as to whether he had griped hold 
of your nose or your shoe. He held on like grim death, for the 
nonce, " and no two ways about it." 

As I said before, he was very amusing and pleasant, and had 
an immense flow of spirits : it was diverting to see him occasion- 
ally, when a sudden terrific lurch came, upsetting furniture and 
philosophy, pathetically turning down one corner of his mouth 
with a lachrymose and rueful expression, while he had not had 
time to di.smiss the merry curl on the other side. He was par- 
ticularly anxious to know, on such occasions, how long the ves- 
sel might be supposed to have a chance of going on before she 
foundered. 

One day we sprang, or carried away, our jib-boom, and the 
main-stay sail came down, and great was the confusion and alarm ; 
for I think one or two on board were not much better sailors than 
the excellent minister. I believe, if the truth had been told, 
there were several who would have thought it an improvement if 
the ship could have accommodated a select few of the Royal, or 
any other Humane Society to restore us to life, after any extent 
of drowning we might be subjected to. However that might be, 
it was a gallant and goodly company on board, and pleasant was 
it to hear tliem singing in merry chorus in the evening, when the 
water was comparatively calm (very much comparatively, T as- 
sure you), "O Susanna I" which rather whimperingly-inchned 



162 TRAVELS IX AMERICA. 

• 
ladv sivms really to bo tho " luulylng one," and also tlie universal 
anil nbiquitons one ; for go where yon may. you Avill liear her in- 
voked. I am told they harpoon whales to this cheering tune in 
tlie Antartie regions. 

Then there was a right jovial parody about " Calit'orny," too, 
and no end of '• Uncle Neds" and " INIary Blanes," &e. But 
among them, however — which was a great want ot' taste in these 
songsters — was not the good old ditty with the impressive words, . 
beginning — 

" Como all ye Contincntallors, I'd have ye for to know, 
That lor to iight the oiioiuy were going lor to go."' 

The Americans, I think, are a very musically inclined people — 
far more naturally so, it strikes me, than we " Britishers." They 
have a very pretty custom (and they have so many, it is strange 
that those which are of a contrary description should ordinarily 
alone have been dwelt upon by travelers'), and this is, of calling 
each other by the names of their respective States. If there bo 
more than one from a State, I suppose by a kind of subdivision 
they resort to the names of their towns. If this be the case, what 
grandiloquent denontinations some of them might come in for. 
" Here Constantinople, young Ninevah wants yon ;" and " Pekin, 
call Carthage and .Mesopotamia to help Alexandrianopolis aiui 
little Herculaneum." As it is, through our skylight, we heard 
constantly some of their beautiful State names shouted out. 
" Indiana, come give us a song right away, and Alabama will 
join." " No ; it is Louisiana's turn any how." " Where's Texas ? 
is he coming on deck .■" " Wall, I jist calc'late he ain't a-going 
to do nothing else ; tlieiv he comes, too, with Midiigau aiul 
Arkansas." 

We arrived at Vera Cruz in the evening ; but it was some 
time before wo were able to land. The getting ont of the 
•' Walker" into the boat was a work of ditHeulty, so ivugh was 
the sea. At last, ourselves and carpet bags were dropped in, the 
former by some ingenious sleight of /(X>^ very creditable to our 

activity. " His Excellency and Mr. F had already gone ou 

shore, and we found Mr. P . and some other of our fellow- 
passengers wailing on shore to receive us and escort us to the 
hotel. The American Consul at Vera Cruz was so good as to 
take us on shore in his boat. 

The glorious Oiizava was only dimly visible in the distance, 
owing to some slight mist. The town, I thought, loiiked beauti- 



EFFECTS OF A NORTHER. 163 

ful from the sea. It is tlie fasliiou to abuse Vera Cruz (uo doubt 
its situatiou and climate are otlious), but its sixteen frraud domes 
and cupolas, its battlemeuts, and picturesque buildings are very 
striking. 

The hotel we are iu is in the great " Plaza," almost close to 
tlie line old cathedral, and opposite to the former palace, now 
partly used as a prison. On the other side are seen handsome 
bouses, bearing severe marks of the bombardment of the city by 
treneral Scott. We Ibund it very hot M'hen we first came here, 
but rejoiced much at the speedy prosjtect of a norther. It came, 
indeed ; but, alas I though to some extent we were benefited, it 
was at tlie expense almost entirely of light and liberty. 

Thus it was — instead of M'indows, except one tiny pane in the 
door, there are, as it were, large wooden gates, or very huge 
clumsy rough doors opening on to the indispensable balcony : when 
the norther blows at all severely, it is absolutely necessary to close 
these great portals, or your room would be full of sand ; and, be- 
sides, yon would be blown out of it. Therefore, we were made 
melancholy prisoners oi", and taken into close captivity by ourselves ; 
and, in spite of all our precautions in the night, our balcony-doors 
blew open, and my little girl and I were almost blown away, beds 
and all. 

There are an enormous number of " sopilotes" here — a kind of 
turkey-buzzai'd, vulture, or carrion crow, or cousin-german to all 
three ; and these are the feathered scavengers of the place. " I 
calc'late" they have no sinecure ofiice, and so they occasionally 
appear to opine themselves, for you see the omnivorous black 
creatures looking very grave and contemplative, sometimes motion- 
less and quiet as a row of mutes, solemn and gloomy as a con- 
gregation of undertakers, and you look upon the dismal sight, and 
begin thinking of sextons and " black jobs" (as I have seen funerals 
describetl in luatter-of fact b^ngland) ; when suddenly up goes one 
midertaker with a whizz, and away goes another with a whirr, to 
make room ior a fresh set. 

The castle of St. Juan d'Ulloa, which commands Vera Cruz, is 
built on the little island bearing the same name, about four him- 
dred fathoms from the shore : it is said to be a strong citadel. 
Its northwest angle supports a light-house, with a splendid re- 
volving light, nearly eighty feet above the sea. 

The harbor is reckoned a very insecui'e one, the anchorage so 
bad that the vessels are not considered safe unless made fast to 
rings of brass, which are fixed for the purpose in the walls of the 



164 TRAVELS IX AMERICA. 

castle. Still, however disadvantageoiisly situated, Vera Cruz may 
boast of considerable comineroial importance, although, of late 
years, Tampico, -with rather a superior port in a less unhealthy 
part of the coast, has been rapidly springing into consequence. 

Vera Cruz was founded about the latter part of the sixteenth 
century, on the very spot where Cortez first landed. There had, 
however, been a small town there before that event, Mhich by 
Cortez himself was called " Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz." Philip 
III. bestowed on it the titles and privileges of a city in 1615. A 
French squadron took the castle in 183S, but shortly afterward 
abandoned it and restored it to the Mexicans. The Americans 
again captured it under General Scott, and it remained in their 
possession till the ratification of the articles of peace. 

While the foreign trade of 3Iexico was carried on exclusively 
by the flota. which sailed from Cadiz periodically, Vera Cruz was 
celebrated for its " fair," held when the ships assembled at its 
port; but, in 177S, the abolition of this system of regular fleets 
put an end to this iair, as also to the yet more famous and splen- 
did one of Porto Bello. 

The houses here seem all built in the ancient Spanish or Moor- 
ish style, ordinarily inclosing a spacious square court, with broad 
covered galleries. They have commonly balconies in front. The 
foot-paths are usually under the shelter of arcades, which is very 
pleasant in hot, sunny countries. 

This hotel, where we meet with great civility and attention, is 
kept by a Scotchman, very considerably Mexicanized — (poor man, 
he is in very bad health, and the climate seems to be slowly poi- 
soning him). The housekeeper is a German, and she, on the con- 
trary, appears to be more intensilied in her luitionality by the pro- 
cess of transplantation. She seemed perpetually in a high state 
of saur-kraut. and utterly Teutonic. She was very kind and 
good-natured uideed to us, although frequently she had declined 
altogether, we were told, the felicity of lodging ladies in the hotel. 

She explained to me. in a remarkably intelligible mixture of 
Mexican-Spanish, English, French, German, Indian, Scotch, and 
any thing else that came into her head, leaving it to me to un- 
ravel them, her reasons for this occasional indisposition on her 
part to receive guests of her own sex. 

'• ^lexican ladies mit ther airs rnuy desagradables. Von Seno- 
ra, wife of a General, come here, sehr cross, sulky. No canny. I 
tink, head. Gone, loco. Order comida for she and de General, 
husband jNIuy bueua it was ; I help cook it. Todos good, when 



GERMAN HOUSEKEEPER. 1C5 

she see it no taste it, take it all todos up, and troze it all at cook's 
cabeza I There I wat you tink o' dat ? The Seiiora got no 
comida, nein — soup, frijoles, chickens, todos she trowed in cook's 
cava, mit her zwei hands I And O ciel ! dere was dinner, disshes, 
and todos on floor. De General, husband, poor man (he blind) 
hear nqjise — came to mich, say ' ]Muy schlecht, me can't help, he 
a'most cry, pobecityl lose him dinner too. Hoot awa, a bonny 
Seiiora dat, madame." 

But, it^ her languages were wonderful, so were her gesticulations. 
Impressive indeeil they were. While her voice was pitched an 
luiusual height to suit and make up ibr the Babel of languages in 
which she was constrained to utter her sentiments, she spoke with 
great rapidity. Suddenly she changed the scene from Mexico to 
Hanover, where it appeared she had been housekeeper to a gentle- 
man who was an acquaintance of our late kind Duke of Cam- 
bridge. 

" The English Herzog Cambridge," she exclaimed, " wat von 
good prince dat I Come von day, all out, tons, Madame, come to 
mich, Cambridge did — " (I think the good frau did not intend 
any disrespect to the royal Duke by thus familiarly speaking of 
him, but, not knowing what Herzog was in English, when she 
did not use the German word she was quite at fault). " Well, 
Cambridge say, tell the family I comes, eh '? Pla, ha I ho laugh, 
selir. Good nature prince — oui, madame, ja, always smile and 
laugh. O I how unlike cross lady mit General husband !" 

She then proceeded to tell some wonderful stories about the 
Herzog, and cows and fresh milk, and a party and a country- 
house, Imcienda, but the extraordinary patchwork of languages 
defied all comprehension — patchwork ? — nay, it was more like 
silks of mixed colors : German, shot with French, and that shot 
over again with English, and crossed with Spanish. She seized 
my hands every now and then as if about to give me a lift to as- 
sist the understanding, but I was in a hopeless state. There was 
a whirl of haciendas and Hanoverians, and generals, and chick- 
ens, and herzogs, and cows, &c., in one's brain ; a human wind- 
mill, a living telegraph, making signs at the rate of a million a 
minute before me — and all was confusion and mental darkness. 
She continued, hoM'cver, fast and furious ; and the chief actor in 
this scene was evidently perfectly satisfied ; she was exceedingly 
diverted, and intensely interested by her own tale. Now she 
seemed almost on the point of cheering herself with hearty bravos, 
and now she successfully melted herself almost to tears, speaking 



166 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

in the most pathetic accouts, with clasped and wrung hands. 
We, not having the most remote notion at this juncture what par- 
ticular Ibnn of human grief she was representing, were at a loss 
to console her. 

As a housekeeper she was very superior indeed, and most kind 
and obliging did we lind her. She kept the hotel in admirable 
order, and seemed to be running about from morning till night. 
If any of the Cruidas or JMozos neglected their duties, there was 
the detachment of Hanoverian light horse after them ifis/anter — 
trot, trot. She had, however, an unpleasant custom of keeping 
part of the broad galleries that ran round the house in a perpetu- 
ally flooded state, from the gigantic scale of washing operations 
that seemed always going on there. At times the soap-sud break- 
ers ran so high, it was a matter of great difllculty to pass them 
with safety, and a small life-boat was quite a desideratum. 

We walked in the Alameda, yesterday evening, for a sliort time, 
escorted by the American Consul here, who is a gentlemanlike 
and well-intbrmed })erson. He served in the Mexican war, and 
told us many very interesting anecdotes respecting it. The Ala- 
meda is pretty enough. At the I'nrther end a I'andango was going 
on : the music sounded ratlier pleasing in the distance. 

Not far from this spot is the beginning of a railroad, which, say 
the Americans, may perhaps be llnished in live hundred years : 
it is intended to be carried on to Mexico. The streets here are 
wide and handsome, and clean too ; thanks, probably, in great 
part, to the solemn scavengers, I have before mentioned. 

Now that the ?io/ie is gone, we almost live upon the balcony. 
From thence we saw an enormous train of packed mules the other 
day. It seemed almost never-ending, as it came into the Plaza : 
the whole place appeared alive with them, when they stopped and 
■were collected together and unloaded. The mules looked strong 
and well fed ; they appeared to have a few little affairs of honor 
to settle with their comrades on their arrival, for a variety of kicks 
were interchanged ; and it was some time before the "party of 
order" gained the ascendant. 

We have made acquaintance already with a number of tropical 
fruits, through the kind care of our German friend. As yet I 
like none oi' them much. There were sapotes, bananas (those 
however were old acquaintances), Grenaditas di Cliina, as they 
called them — mamey, and others. The living at this hotel is ex- 
tremely good (though of course the cooking is Mexican) ; and we 
have certainly on no occasion thrown the repast at our Mozo's 



DEPARTURE FOR MEXICO. 167 



wild Indian head. He is an cxtraoidiuary genius, this same Mozo 
who usually waits on us ; lor he actually comprehends my Span- 
ish, and except a few very trifling mistakes, such as bringing me 
a jug of boiling water instead of ice, or clearing away all the 
things, when I ask lor a fevv' more, we manage quite capitally. I 
am perpetually asking him for bread, and potatoes and other veget- 
ables, and milk ; ibr at sea wc Averc deprived of all these pleasing 
articles of Ibod, and the two latter are very good here. lie seems 
salislled in his own mind, as he brings fresh ^«y;rt.s, and more Mtc 
and 'pa'i, that we came from a country where cows are unknown, 
vegetables ungrown, and bread wholly unheard of, and that wo 
arc duly delighted with our new Mexican fare. 

We have received several visits from the English Consul and 
his son. Mr. Giflbrd is good enough to give us all the necessaiy 
information with regard to our journey to Mexico, and to lend us 
a couple of small trunks in the place of our large ones, which he 
advises, for several good and sulficieut reasons, should be lelt be- 
hind at Vera Cruz. We have been detained about a week here in 
consequence of the diligences being so full, it was impossible to get 
places^ After considerable diUlculty, our asientos are now secured. 
Our kind frientl, the American minister, started some time ago. 

The cortege had altogether an imposing cflect. Eight stout 
mules \Vere attached to the huge carriage, and a large escort of 
dragoons, drew up before the front of the hotel. These, I believe 
a short time before the diligence started, trotted oli" to wait lor it 
at the gates. 

The diligencias always leave Vera Cruz about ten o'clock at 
night, for the heat of the day would render the journey almcst in- 
supportable, especially to the poor nmles, who have to drag the 
unwieldy vehicle tlirough the hills of sand which cause the first 
part of this journey to be very wearisome and disagreeable. 

We were on the balcony when the United States minister took 

his departure. With him was Mr. P , a walking arsenal, and 

a movable powder-magazine, determined no ladrone should annex 
his goods and chattels, lie said laughingly to us, "I have just 
thirty-seven shots to give them, if they attempt to meddle with 
me." 

His Chilian servant did not look quite so light-hearted as his 
master ; he marched gravely behind the bushy bulwarks of his 
own enormous mustaches in rather a darkly contemplative mood. 
However, I believe (like his nation in general), he is a right 
brave man, and probably, if he entertained any apprehension, it 



16S TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

•was of the gunpowder magazine inside the diligence blowing up, 
as such an explosion M'as not impossible, taking lighted cigars into 
account ; and it would have been an unpleasant and unprofitable 
way of quitting existence^-on the road to California too I which, 
he and his master were. 

Mr. P told me, he has always had Chinese servants at 

Mazatlan, this Chilian being almost the only exception. He says 
they are the best servants imaginable — quick, obliging, attentive, 
and trustworthy. 

Lord M. Kerr started, very shortly after his arrival here, for 
Mexico. He rode part of the way. in order to be able to stop 
when he chose, to sketch : a Mexican guide accompanied him. 
He thought of taking the diligence from Jalapa. I believe, and 
after going for some distance by that, perhaps riding again. 

The bawling the watchmen make here, is astonishing and alarm- 
ing. They seem to be in the habit of perpetually frightening peo- 
ple to death, to assure them that they are safe. Imagine all the 
dogs of Constantinople in profound attlictiou and pain, and you 
may form some idea of the howling of Vera Ciiizian scfcuos. 
They have that pretty name, not certainly from the staft into 
Avhich they have suddenly aroused, and horribly startled the un- 
fortunate slumberers, but because in the ^Mexican climate in gene- 
ral, the state of the weather (which they have to report), is cloud- 
lessly fine, and so they are constantly crying a yelling tempestuous 
scrc?w : the rest of their terrible hollabulloo, I believe, consists of 
the hour, and " Ave Marie purissima." 

"We have seen some very picturesque iMexican peasants and 
horsemen. The women's dress with the llowing rcbo$o is very 
graceful. These rcbosos are long, colored scarfs, and are crossed 
about in some peculiar mamier, which has a pretty efi'ect. The men 
wear enormous hats, with silver cords twisted round them, very 
wide trowsers, which are slashed up the side of the leg, and splendid 
scrapes of many hues, which are tossed about in every imaginable 
shape and manner : — it seemed to me as if no two were ever 
worn alike. Their horse-furniture is generally handsome, and 
their profusely ornamented saddles are (Dominie Sampson would 
say) " prodigious." 



CHAPTER XVI. 

The Mexicans — Climate of ^lexico — Luxuriance olits \ egetatioii — Beauty 
of its Flowers and Birds — Jalapa — The Journey from Vera Cruz — The 
State of the Roads — The Dilijienee — A formidable-looking Passenger — 
Cornish Miners in Mexico — The Inn at Perote — English Hardware in 
JNIexico — Hacienda of Cieneral Santa Anna — General Scott and the Pas- 
sage of the Chapparal — Pneute Del Key — The IVlountains of RTexieo — 
Orizaba — Its magniticcnt Height — Cathedral of Puebla — Mexican Spurs 
— Rio Frio — Popoeatapetl — National Character of the Mexicans. 

We have had a dehphlful journey from Vera Cruz, excepting 
always the frightful roughness of the roads. I believe, since the 
days of the Spanish dominion, they have never been repaired 
or touched. General Scott's artillery could have done them no 
good ; but there they remain unmended. Formerly, it is said, 
this road was the finest in the world. No doubt the standard 
was not very high in those days : Macadamization had not seen 
the light, and the French j)avc had. But from the very ruins of 
the road you can form an idea of the former excellence of it. The 
loose stones lying about, over which you bound with such excru- 
ciating jolts, were originally part ot" a line pavement, which every 
now and then, indeed, lor a very short distance, you roll over, and 
which has withstood ruin, rain, revolutions, and that old gentle- 
man with the sharp scythe, who, though supposed to fly, continues 
to leave very deep footmarks wherever he treads — and where docs 
he not ? 

If the Mexicans, instead of manufacturing their three hundred 
revolutions since their independence, had spent the time and 
money devoted to these topsy-turvy, useless pursuits, and busied 
themselves in improving their internal communications, develop- 
ing the natural resources of their magnificent country, and ad- 
vancing the education of the people — what might Mexico be ? 
What might it not be at this moment ? If a calculation could be 
made, and they could ascertain what they might have accom- 
plished with the money and means and misdirected energies that 
they have applied to such worse than idle purposes, would they 
not regret their folly ? No, not a bit, I dare say ; though, but tor 
their many internal sources of weakness, in all probability they 
might have successfully withstood the Americans, and remained 
in possession of California, and, in course of time, discovered what 

II 



170 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

that possession implied. This might have been better and more 
patriotic in the end than playing at revolutions, unhinging the 
whole country, and upsetting every thing, as if this were really a 
desideratum and advantage to a nation. 

As to the extreme natural beauty we beheld during the almost 
magical journey from Vera Cruz to the capital, no words, I i'eel, 
can adequately describe it. We passed through every variety of 
climate, each with its own peculiar productions, with splendid 
snow-topped mountains crowning the scene, themselves crowned 
by the gorgeous magnificence of the resplendent tropical heavens. 
Such mornings I such sunrises ! heaven and earth seemed meeting, 
as it were, and mingling in glory without end. Such nights I 
heaving and blazing with stars. Those glorious masses of stars 
seemed almost coming down on our little world : nearer and 
nearer they seemed to shine, as if drooping under the weight of 
their immense glory and majesty, and sinking toward us ! You 
know what the Neapolitan embassador said to George the Second : 
that the moon of the King, his master, was far better than His 
Majesty's sun. I wish he had seen the stars of Mexico, M'hich 1 
think are not very unlike Italian moons ; and her moons like great 
white suns, and her suns like the skies on fire. Certainly the 
heavens in the tropics are raarvelously glorious — but earth is so 
beautil'ul here, too. 

One riiorning, at sunrise, coming from Puebla, we saw the 
great mountain, Orizaba, reflecting the light of the rising lumin- 
ary, and looking as if it Avas literally made partly of gold and 
partly of fire, so gloriously was it beaming back those dazzling 
splendors from its huge crest of glittering snow. Between Jalapa 
and Perote, and still more between Vera Cruz and Jalapa, the 
astonishing prodigality and unutterable magnificence of the 
tropical vegetation is perfectly overpowering I I could not have 
believed, M'ithout beholding it, that such a Paradise remained to 
this world I Such color.s — such blooms — such forests of flowers ! 
Such inconceivable luxuriance of foliage and fruit ! You can not 
for a moment " begin to imagine" the glories of these scenes — 
their inexhaustible variety — their indescribable exuberance — their 
extraordinary and matchless brilliancy of coloring I 

Nature seems like a perpetual miracle there. It made us think 
of the sumptuous Sultana in the " Arabian Nights' " tales, who 
changed her regal dress twelve times a day. Just try to fancy in 
those marvelous regions endlessly-spreading colossal bowers, under 
a green overhanging firmament of uptowering trees, and such 



MEXICAN FLOWERS. 171 

bowers too I Myriads of flowers of a hundred colors, crowding 
coronal upon coronal ; and these again intertwined and over- 
twined, and round and through, and sub and supertwined with 
others, and others still ! It seemed as if there was really going to 
be a flood of flowers, and this was the first flow of the dazzling 
deluge : a gorgeous deluge indeed that would be — its own rain- 
bow. There were innumerable roses, interwreathed with convol- 
voluses, flowering myrtles, aloes, cherimoyas, floripuudias (a mag- 
nificent sculpture-like, bell-shaped flower), the verdant liquidamber, 
jessamines, and others, with creepers and parasitical plants, fes- 
tooning and trailing themselves about with the very wildest 
luxuriance, so that often the coiled and heaped-together boughs 
and branches appear to bear hundreds of diflerent sorts of leaves 
and flowers at once I 

One of the most magnificent flowers I ever saw, grows on a 
tree of considerable dimensions (if, indeed, it is not a parasitical 
plant), and looks, with its multitudinous clusters of large, gorgeous, 
and vivid scarlet blossoms, like a pyramid of planets in a blaze, or 
a candelabra of comets, with forty thousand branching flames in 
all directions. The.?e were most beautifully contrasted by the 
snowy Avhite lilies I have spoken of before, which literally lined 
the road-side in many places. 

In short, altogether, it was quite bewildering. One felt that 
one would fain have ten thousand eyes to see with, and ten thou- 
sand senses to admire, appreciate, and realize (I must go back to 
the United States for the right word) all the immensity and 
variety of those wondrous royal realms of Nature. I have said 
that the leaves, branches, flowers, fruits, stems, seemed all con- 
fusedly intermingled, and matted, and massed together in beauty. 
There were heaps of cactuses garlanded with wildernesses of 
roses ; there were floripundias coiled about with creepers that 
seemed almost moving in their wild life-like grace ; besides count- 
less other labyrinthine complications. 

But I have said nothing of the splendid birds, that like ani- 
mated rainbows and winged sunbeams w^ere darting about amid 
these transcendent scenes. But it is quite useless to attempt to 
describe these unimaginable regions — one might as well strive to 
convey in M'ords a glorious strain of the most exquisite music. 

After leaving Puebla, we mounted up so high, that it became 
quite cold; and at Perote, too, where we slept one night, we 
should have been glad of a little fire I There the vegetation was 
chiefly confined to pines and firs. We had extremely hot weather 



172 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

for the first day's journey ; but we had a dehghtful and most re- 
freshing- rest at Jalapa, which is a place of enchantment — a Httle 
Cashmere of dehghts — a very kingdom of roses. The climate is 
reckoned very good, and the poor Vera Cruzians fly there to take 
refuge from their terrible vomito (the dreadful Vera Cruz fever). 

I think this lovely Jalapa is unlike any town I have ever seen 
any where : its houses and streets do not seem to take away the 
country air of every thing belonging to it. In those garden-beau- 
tified, quiet, picturesque streets, you feel as far out of the hard, and 
stale, and work-a-day world, as it' you were in the midst of a A'ast 
savanna, or the shadowy recesses of an untrodden forest. I can 
hai'dly tell why it is so, but so it seemed to me. Diligences seem 
to rattle there, and busy travelers to congregate in vain: uU, still, 
appears quiet, all peacetiil. and holiday-like at Jalapa. It seems, 
as it were, consecrated by its omu beauty. 

And Nature has so much to say there I Her tlowery treasures 
fill the streets and courts with their odoriferous delights. Her 
glorious mountains and hills look upon you there in a hundred 
beauteous shapes. 

We found a delightful hotel in that exquisite town — all gal- 
leries, and balconies, and arcades, and courts ; and to breathe the 
delicious air of balmy Jalapa alone, is a pleasure. Is the reader 
aware, that the not delicious medicine, whose name closely resem- 
bles that of this fair town, is produced from a root, which grows 
in areat profusion near it ? From this place it takes its name ; 
and as this association is not particularly charming, I prefer spell- 
insr tho word in the old way, " Xalapa." What a fall from roses 
and tloripundias, to tumble down to this nauseous drug! But 1 
believe the tlower of this same plant, is a very beautifid convolvu- 
lus. Very useful it is, no doubt : and, in this utilitarian age per- 
haps, more to be thought of than poor Flora's daliydowndilly 
treasures, and roses and posies. 

The dreaded tirst stage from Vera Cruz, I did not find so 
dreary as 1 expected. Our escort met us at the gates of the town 
and our eight mules went gallantly on, till the deep loose sand re- 
duced the gallop to a trot, the trot to a walk, and the walk even 
at times almost to a stand-still : some parts of the way we went 
washing the wheels of the cumbrous diiigencia actually in the sea. 
There seemed to be no regnlar road, just there, or if there was, 
the coachman evidently disregarded it, for it could not be supposed 
it led through the sea. 

Afterward wo came to a very heavy part of the road; it seem- 



STATE OF THE ROADS. 173 

ed all the mules could do, to tug us through, and a great deal of 
time was consumed in this slow battle with the sand. 

We stopped to breakfast at a very nice pavilion-like place. 
There we were ushered into a very pretty airy room, where the 
breakfast was already prepared, on a large round table. Senor 

N , a friend of the English Consul, who had been introdueed 

to us by him at Vera Cruz, was one of our fellow-passengers, 
lie is a member of the Mexican Congress, and appea'rs a highly- 
informed person. He speaks French and English very fluently. 
He was exceedingly obliging, and did the honors of the diligence 
and the hotel admirably lor us. 

They have a very pretty plan in some of these country " fondas," 
of putting up windows of dark blue glass, Avhich shed a delight- 
fully cool light through the room. This, however, is rare, for or- 
dinarily there are no windows at all, only the great doors I men- 
tioned before. 

From Jalapa, we had an American coachman, who drove ex- 
tremely well; but the road was frightful. Tlie diligences, and 
the hotels that they stop at, all belong to one person, a rich and 
enterprising JNlexican gentleman, who has done much to improve 
the communication between Vera Cruz and the capital, and, I be- 
lieve, between Mexico and Guadalajara as well, wbich line also 
belongs to him. But there is much room for further improve- 
ment. 

Some of the stages are a great deal too long — above all, on such 
infamous roads ; and while several of the hotels are exceedingly 
comfortable and well-conducted, others are of the most primitive 
description, and amply i'nrnished with — nothing ; at least, nothing 
that you can profitably and pleasantly make use of 

The roads are horrible. Every now and then came an un- 
earthly jolt, that tossed us all up like shuttlecocks to the ceiling, 
and made one think really some drivers, in despair had left their 
foundered wagons on the way, or General Scott some broken can- 
non, Avhich we in our frisky diligence had taken a Hying leap over. 
Our involuntary flights to the ceiling and back, were like the 
short, fluttering, up-springings of the poor pigeons of Loo, Avhich I 
used to conuniserate so much when hawking there : they were 
thrown up to attract the hawks, and then jerked back again. 

At other timers we felt we were droping into a chasm, that seem- 
ed desirous of emulating the mammoth cave in dear " old Kentuck." 
AVe found we had our own heads " in chancery" sometimes, pretty 
nearly, and the whacks and thumps that all got, were tremendous. 



174 TKAVELS IN AMERICA. 

At length, the much-abused diligencia came to a dead stop, 
heart-broken — or spring-broken at any rate, as we discovered : and 
this accident revealed to us the astounding fact that these diligen- 
cias. actually pretended to have springs, which otherwise we should 
not have dreamed of. We were all requested to descend, wliile 
the huge vehicle was raised and the injury temporarily repaired, 
by the united etlbrts of the coachman and an American gentleman, 
who was au outside passenger, on his way to California. At last 
we mounted the high steps, and were placed on the whe<?ls, or 
'■ the ii'heeL' again. 

The spirited proprietor of these coaches, should arrange that an 
"experienced surgeon" should accompany them in their journeys. 
It might be useful practice, too, for a few young beginners — as 
good as walking the hospitals. 

We saw a beautiful waterfall in the distance, on the way to 

Perote, which Colonel A (a friend of Senor N ) lirst 

pointed out to us, saying it was a " Catarata," like Niagara : the 
first it was, and a very pretty one ; the last I must beg to be ex- 
cused from admitting. 

We had a steep hill not far from this place, long, but not tedi- 
ous, and so just the reverse of that sermon, Canning characterized 
as "tedious, though not long."' The road on both sides was bor- 
dered with the most enchanting natural gardens of tiowers of all 
hues. Hesperides (and of any extent) for hedges, or instead of 

them I Colonel A gathered us some delicious flowers, and 

our great barge on wheels looked as cheerful as the Russian treil- 
lagetl cages in which ladies at St. Petersburgh used to sit (I know 
not if the fashion continues) in their drawing-rooms, playing at 
summer and the south. 

We drove on merrily, with our gallant escort galloping and 
prancing by the side of the stage, the flags on their lances flutter- 
ing gayly in the wind (and themselves all sarapes and mustache, 
showing only the point of a nose, and two dark eyes in addition), 
and with our curious collection of articles within, such as roses 
and revolvers, convolvuluses and cigars, books and bowie-knives, 
escopetas and oi-anges, gunpowder and sugar-plums, fans, parasols, 
and pistols. 1 forgot to mention how our kind Hanoverian house- 
keeper loaded us with generous gifts of tea and sugar, and firuit, 
and cakes, which she good-naturedly insisted on our taking. It 
was rather perilous, however, to have loose parcels in the vehicle, 
as they were flung about in all directions ; and you stood a chance 
DOW of having a tea-canister in your eye ; now a huge packet of 



CORNWALL MINERS IN MEXICO. 175 

sugar struck you on the nose ; and now the basket, but not the 
oranges (these were acting the part of cannon-balls, and knocking 
people about right and left), Avas on the point of trying to go down 
j'our throat. 

Frightful present dangers make one forget remoter perils ; and 
the alarm occasioned by these active missiles, and also the serious 
terror with which we contemplated our brave defenders, made us 
think but little of robbers — but this requires explanation assuredly. 
It must be told that the passengers were superabundantly armed 
— they frequently declared no danger was to be apprehended in 
consequence of their having such a heap of lirearms among them, 
irom which I begged leave to differ. Now imagine an old " esco- 
peta" loaded, and frequently pointed at your head during the mad 
jumps of that lumbering and eccentric vehicle, that seemed play- 
ing with an invisible skipping-rope, and constantly catching its 
feet in it ; a large covey of pistols periorming curious circuits in 
the air, occasionally in the hands of their valiant owners, and 
various other similar murderous instruments of defense, which 
were enough to make your hair stand on end, considering the posi- 
tion they placed themselves in with reference to your brains, during 
the plungings and prancings of that Avild-colt like coach. 

At one of the "ventas" Ave took in a gentleman who looked like 
the Tower of London on its travels, such an arsenal had he hung 
round his belt. At the first glance you might have taken him for 
the commander-in-chief of all the brigands in Mexico, but you 
would have been Avidely mistaken. This was a most pacifically 
disposed and pleasant English gentleman, ]Mr. G , a superin- 
tendent of the far-famed Guanajuato mines, who had been in 
Mexico about twenty years without losing a jot or particle of his 
English mannei-s, way of speaking, or appearance, although it is 
by no means the existing fashion in Hyde Park, or even on the 
Northwestern Railway, to hang your Avaist round with pistols, 
and other such belligerent ornaments. He told us the mines of 
Guanajuato (Avhich place, Ave were told, the Cornwall miners who 
Avork there pronounce invariably " Go-and-a-quarter ') have been 
extraordinarily productive during the last year, they having yielded, 
in 1849, 8,400,000 dollars, Avhich is above half a million more 
than they did last year. Ncav mines haA'e been opened, and the 
improA^ements in the methods and machinery are said to be A'ery 
extensive. 

Mr. G told me, on the Avhole, the preference Avas perhaps 

to be given to native AA'orkmen over those from CornAvall, in con- 



176 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

sequence of the latter being so addicted to drinking, and to quar- 
reling with one another — at least in Mexico. Already round 
Guanajuato there are more than a hundred mines, and nearly 
eighty thousand workmen are employed. 

When we arrived at Perote, I was rather terrified at the first 
aspect of the »i(''Wf/ ; but presently reflected it was of course only 
the mules' stables we saw, and 1 felt consoled lor a brief space of 
time ; but on descending from the diligence, what was my con- 
sternation to find that those rough-looking stalls, which I was 
rather compassionating the poor mules for having to inliabit, were 
destined to be our apartments I They were almost exactly in size 
and every thing else like rudely-built loose horse-boxes, the chief 
ditierence being that there were small beds instead of straw in 
them, and a very little table fastened against the wall, with a 
couple of mouldy-looking chairs. Window there was none of any 
sort or kind. 

Notwithstanding the rugged appearance and appointments of 
our quarters, they gave us a very good dinner (after stoutly refusing 
to let us have any thing unless we went to the public table which 
I declined, and almost while still reiterating '• Nada. nada I no es 
posible !" they brought it), and a very civil mi/chacJia waited on 
us. All the plates and dislies at all the ?}iesous we stopped at on 
our way from Vera Cruz to INIexieo, have the eagle and nopal (the 
arms of INIexico) on them, and intorm the hungry traveler, in very 
conspicuous characters, that they belong to the service of the di/i- 
f:e?ic((is i:e?icrah'S, and all of them are made in busy England, ex- 
pressly tor this line. That sweet little island of ours, as we know, 
likes to have a finger in every pie and pie-dish I 

We saw an inmnense conducta during our journey. A vast 
number of mules were carrying silver from the mines to the coast. 
It was a very gay, and pretty, and interesting sight. It seemed 
as if there was a whole regiment of soldiers escorting the specie- 
burdened mules. 

Perote is reckoned a sort of metropolis of the Iadro?ies. It is 
said the diligence has on several occasions been pillaged at the 
very gates of this gloomy and wild-looking town. We came at a 
very fortunate time. About a week before, a diligence had been 
stopped and plundered, and the brigands were taken and siitlered 
capital punishment. This had, of course, struck terror into the 
rest for the time, and, with a strong escort, we felt very secure, 
except from the six-shooters and escopetas of our friends. 

The specimen we had of the latter weapon might have figured 



GENERALS SCOTT AJNU SANTA ANNA. 177 



in a imistMim, as an antique, with credit to itself, and less danger 
to others, tiiun knuleil and in a loaded (lili<;ence : it looked horrible, 
really, in the hands of a raw, inexperienced Spanish youth, who, 
with his brother, had just arrived I'roni Spain, to settle in INTexico 
— with some relation, I believe. It probably dated iVoni about the 
time ot'the ureat Spanish Armada. 

it appeared to me they allow the diligencia travelers any 
amount ot" dawdling-time that they require. Sometimes, when 
the mules were all ready, the greater ])art ol" the j)assengers would 
be lounging about with their cigars, keeping the rest of the "gentle 
public" waiting : when it suited their pleasure, the agreeable sound 
" vamos, caballeros" was heard, and, ere long, we were ofl". I 
must confess, however, it is very likely at these times the stage 
may have been a little before its time, and this was the reason the 
'• caballeros" were allowed to stretch their cramped limbs for a 
little longer period. 

I ought to have mentioned before, that we passed a fine-looking 
hacienda, or (/ifiuta, that belonged to (ieneral Santa Anna. It 
liad a deserted, melancholy appearance ; but whether it still is his 
property or no, I know not. It is between WnaCruz and Jalapa ; 
and, 1 believe, many other JiticioK/as between the.se two ])laces 
are, or were, his. We also came by the famous battle-lield of 
Cerro Gordo. 

The American whom I mentioned before (and who was a very 
gentlemanlike, intelligent person, with very quiet manners, though 
bristling with arms like a I'ortress) pointed out to us the held, on 
which he had fought. He gave ns an animated account of the 
battle ; and so near the spot, and described rtra voce, it was very 
interesting. So well too did he tell his tale of war that we were fain 
to shoulder our very ])arasols in martial sympathy. He told how 
General Scott had cleared the passage through the Chapparal, 
making a circuit of a i'ew miles, and thus gaining the side of the 
hill that looked to the northeast, the most easy of access, and 
which it appeared, was not so well defended as the rest. The hill 
has two peaks. 

General Scott gained one, and the American forces charged 
down the slope and up the steep in ijont of them, "even where 
the deadliest of War's death-bolls showered" from the thundering 
batteries of the foe. The battery was taken, and the cannons 
played against the retreating Mexicans, who, broken, and disor- 
dered, fled imi)etuously through the Chapparal. Sanla Anna 
with some dilliculty cdected his escape. 

11* 



178 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Cerro Gordo itself is a mere Indian village, of transparent-look- 
ing cane huts. Paul Pry need not " drop in" to sucli dwellings 
to see all that is going on in the household. 

We passed by the ruins of a very fine stone bridge across the 
river, near Plan del Rio, another assemblage of bamboo huts, 
■which was burned by Santa Anna on the advance of " Los Yan- 
kees." This bridge, we were told, the Mexicans blew up, hoping 
thus to stop General Scott's artillery. Others say, it was to hin- 
der the passage of an American specie train, en route from Vera 
Cruz. In six hours after this destruction was completed, Los 
Yankees had, with their usual quickness and ability, made a capi- 
tal road across the chasm, which not only answered their purpose 
at the time, but which remains to answer that of ours, and all 
other travelers ; for the sacrificed bridge has never been restored 
by the Mexicanos. 

Puente Nacional, formerly " Puenta del Fk-ey," is in a savagely 
beautiful glen, through which the river sparkles and dashes in its 
passage to the Gulf Rivers are very rare in Mexico, and there 
are no large ones in the country. 

I have said nothing yet of the Coffre di Perote. It is 13,514 
feet high, and its crest is distinguished by a mass of rock, that is 
shaped much like a chest, from which the mountain takes its 
name. I did not very much admire this same Coffre di Perote : 
what is it, compared with glorious, unmatched, unmatchable Ori- 
zaba ? In Mexico you become quite difficile about your mount- 
ains ; you pick and choose, select, reject. The ten-thousand-footer 
on this side seems like a mere upstart mushroom of a mountain, 
and the eight-thousand-feet-high hobble-de-hoy on that side is 
really a ridiculous little molehill, a Tom Thumb on tiptoes, look- 
ing tall with all its might, but a poor dwarf, after all. As to the 
clouds upon it, they must be mere grovelers of clouds, very much 
addicted to low company, to hover so much about it : mountain 
indeed I We will perhaps allow it to be something like the lofty 
artificial garden-mounds in a Chinese picture, which the lady, 
with her little club foot slightly raised, is going to step over with 
such careless ease. 

But now, Orizaba, come into court ; let us have a look at you. 
Majestic Orizaba, thou art indeed magnificent ! What is there 
in the world like thee 1 standing alone, and thus in thy " single 
blessedness" towering to thy mighty height of seventeen thousand 
eight hundred feet ! (Some writers give it eighteen thousand feet. 
It is said to be the only mountain of equal height on the earth 



MEXICAN SPURS. 179 



Ihat thus rises detached and apart from all others in its lofty soli- 
tude, communing with only heaven). Thou " star-mountain," 
with the dazzling summit of perpetual snows, so pure, and cold, 
and bright, in the face of the burning sun of the tropics I How 
beautiful are the girdling forests of cedars and pines, and other trees 
that adorn the giant sides of that con.'jummate Orizaba. 

At Puebla I was sorry not to see the inside of the Cathedral ; 
which, to judge from the exterior, must be well worth a visit. It 
is considered by the Pueblanos to be partly of angelic architecture 
— and well did the celestial stone-masons do their work. 

Puebla was called on this account " Puebla da los Angeles." 
The mortal workmen must have felt a very mortal jealou.sy of 
these winged laborers ; but history says not vihether in conse- 
quence of diminislied \vages, there was any strike. Naturally (or 
Bupernaturally), the immortal builders left their earthly competi- 
tors far behind, both in the rapidity and perfection of their work. 
This superstition is, of course, chiefly confined to the Indians. 

We were too much charmed with the peace and quiet of our 
hotel to stir out that evening. Certainly the luxury of not bound- 
ing about like an India rubber ball, banging your head against 
the hard coach, and wrenching your hands almost ofi' in the vain 
effort to steady yourself, can only be appreciated by those who have 
been tossing on the stormy surface of that great highway from 
Vera Cruz i'or some days. Puebla is a very large town, and a 
handsome one ; it has an immense population of spurs, cloaks, 
sombreros, and rebosos (for we could see but little of the enveloped 
wearers), which perpetually paraded the streets. 

We saAV some most beautil'ul spurs of wrought silver for 
sale at one of the places we stopped at : the workmanship was 
exquisite. The spurs were not quite the size of a wagon-wheel 
(without the rim), but might, perhaps, on a pinch, serve in that 
capacity. The -would-be sellers of them brought them to the 
window of the diligence, to tempt us. We admired them very 
much — not their size, but the extreme beauty of the designs, 
which wei'e most delicately executed upon them. All praised, 
but none purchased : peradventure though a present of sharp spurs 
might have been a good hint to the worthy gentlemen who some- 
times deign to interest themselves in the temporal affairs of travel- 
ers (and to relieve them from the troublesome charge of that plague, 
baafgage — a good hint that they were welcome to use them and 
make themselves scarce at their earliest convenience), yet it would 
have hardlv been worth our while to encumber ourselves with 



180 TRAVELS I\ AAFERICA. 



these hun:e articles, in order to lay them at the feet, and fix them 
on the heels, of these gallant gentlemen. 

The name of the place where those beauties were offered us for 
sale has slipped my memory ; but well do I remember the road 
which followed. Indeed, it was sufficient to have jogged any 
memory in the world. To this day it is to me a mj'stery how we 
ever arrived alive at this city of Montezuma. Instead of being a 
road to tliis beauteous place, it would seem to be a succession of 
barriers and obstacles expressly designed to keep you from it. 

When the tribulation of jolting had a little subsided, and peo- 
ple began picking up their parcels and packages, a ii-esh trial await- 
ed us : it was a sort of dust ordeal now that we had to pass 
through. " Ilombre I que polvo I dispense, V. Caballero, sirvase 
V. levantar los vidrios." " Si, Seiiora, con raucho gusto,"' and up 
went the windows on both sides, but soon to come down again, 
for it Avas too hot, full as the carriage Avas, to keep them closed 
long. Oh, what a dust was that I IMethinks I shall never hear 
people talk, or see them write of the dust of their ancestors with 
patience again — it will seem so disrespectful to compare them to 
such an unmitigated nuisance. Such dust, and such quantities of 
it! Had it been gold dust, we might have become very valuable 
freight before we drove into the court-yard of the Casa di Diiigeu- 
cias here. As it was we might have "had a good crop of Magveys 
in the " coche," or any thing we pleased, for we had become quite 
landed proprietors of the soil, so deeply spread was it over our 
large light shawls and various habiliments. 

Rio Frio was the last bveakfasting-place we stopped at, and 
here it began to rain, while the travelers were devouring their rice 
" guisados," " frijoles," and chocolate. Presently out rushed 

Mr. in great haste, leaving his '■' Almuerzo," with a huge 

umbrella opened, and consternation in his countenance ; but it 
was not to protect IVom the ram yonder onuchadia with the black 
streaming hair, nor certainly that decrepit old dame ^ith the tat- 
tered rcboso. No : it was lor the precious pistols exposed on the 
box-seat (or rather Avhat is called the pe^ca?fie) to the storm ; 
having carefully placed the big umbrella upon these sweet little 
pets, he returned to his repast, Avith a clear conscience. The 
Avelcome drops began to patter doAvn fast ; hoAvever, soon it be- 
came rather too much of a good thing, and the day became chilly 
and clouded. It is said, though, at Rio Frio it is always cold, 
and almost ahvays Avindy ; it was both that morning. 

I trembled for the vicAv — the " hermosLssiraa vista' — of Mexico 



CHARACTER OF THE MEXICANS. ISl 

and its vast valley of enchantment — that glorious valley, which is 
about a hundred miles in extent, and a whole world of beauty 
and magnificence, and fertility in itself ! We had seen a splendid 
sunrise, and had a grand view of Popocatapetl, this morning, but, 
Vappdit vient en mangeant, and we were longing to gaze at sun- 
down on the valley of valleys, with its stupendous guardian chain 
of encircling mountains, its majestic capital, with a thousand 
domes, and towers, and terraces, in the centre ; its lakes like glit- 
tering sheets of silver ; and all the glories that those among our 
fellow-passengers, who had been there before, described with great 
and vehement enthusiasm and rapture. 

In mentioning Popocatapetl, I ought not to have neglected the 
other grand volcano, Iztaccihuatl, for they are not very far from 
each, and do not aflect a surly solitude like that sturdy old bache- 
lor, Orizaba. " Iztaccihuatl," or the " White Lady," might 
seem to be the fair and gracious bride of stately " Popocatapetl." 

Not a word have I said about Malinche, another but a smaller 
volcano. It is said to bo about thirteen thousand feet high, and 
is a very majestic mountain. The name is the Aztec alteration 
for Marianna, the beauteous Indian wife of Cortez. Then, of 
Cortez himself, and of his battle-fields, I have said naught, nor of 
the wonderful Pyramid of C.holula, with its splendid and Titanic 
terraces marked out against the sky — that marvelous work of the 
marvelous Aztecs. 

One word of the people in this loveliest of all countries, or that 
vast accumulation of sarapcs and whiskers, which I presume to 
be the people. They would appear, to judge by the outward man, 
or rather the outward mantle and mustaches, to be a ferocious 
and mysterious set of personages, but I believe they are neither 
one nor the other ; a little treacherous, perhaps, and a little chol- 
eric occasionally, fond of pi'>'ommciamentos, and pulque ; an rcste, 
full of contempt for all foreigners, whom they call disdainfully 
" Los Gringos" (except their first cousins, the Spaniards, who are 
nicknamed " Los Gachupinos"), and superlatively so, it strikes 
me, as far as I have yet seen, for their conquerors the Yankees. 
They — that is at least the prouder and richer classes of Mexico, 
appear generally to mention them with a kind of sneering shrug, 
which seems to say " hombre ! we could have beaten them ; but, 
only in short — the stars were more in fault than we I" 

I think the Americans have done good to the country and the 
people in some respects. I should be inclined to believe that there 
is now a greater craving for education, a deoper sense of its desir- 



1S2 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

ableness and necessity, than before the war. I am told great num- 
bers of young IMexicans of good family go to the United States 
now to be educated, and they will come back, of course, with vast- 
ly enlarged views, and developed powers of intellect. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

Mexico when First conquered — Cortez and IMontezuma — The musical Gen- 
tleman — iMexican Plants and Flowers — The Cathedral in the Cit}' of 
INIexieo — Arrival of the Diliiienco at the Hotel — The Passensrers — j\I. de 
Zurutuza — Appointments of the Hotel — Mexican Pronunciamientos — The 
Mexican Laily and her Flowers — The Form of (iovernment best suited 
for Mexico — The Streets of jMexico — The Passenpers and Vehicles — The 
Shops — Rebosos and Sarapcs — Picturesque Costume of the Mexicans. 

It was not possible to roll along the broad causeway leading to 
Mexico — that causeway made, if I am correctly informed, by the 
ancient Indians, and not thiidc of the days of old, when along that 
magnificent road marched the hosts of Cortez in their pride and 
power — the gallant Spanish chivalry — while before their wondering 
eyes rose the city of ten thousand enchantments, the unspeakably 
beautiful Tenochtillan, like the capital of the Eastern King of the 
Genii, spreading over and covering its beautiful islands, with its 
palaced streets, that swarmed with gay canoes — its tein])les, its 
groves, its floating gardens, its crystal seas, covered with barques 
(thoi?c majestic lakes which are now .so diminished and reduced), 
and all its unimaginable beauties of art and nature — all that un- 
rivaled valley-world which, shut out froni the rest of earth, scarcely 
seems to belong to that earth — fenced and walled round by its 
glorious giant mountains, leaning their snowy-helmed foreheads 
against the stars, and reflecting themselves in those silver Avaters. 
as if they repented of leaving such a scene of enchantment, and 
thus rotiu-ned and haunted it ever. 

What a vision must this have been to the eyes of the Spanish 
conqueror, and those of his adventurous followers, when, too, they 
saw the splendid procession advancing irom the gates of the glorious 
city to meet them — the mighty monarch of the Aztecs, the im- 
perial Montezuma, surrounded by his court, his richly appareled 
chieftains ; in short, as says one of the old Spanish writers, about 
two htmdred nobles of the roval blood, " vestidos di libroa con 



CORTEZ AND MONTEZUMA. 183 

grandes penachos confbrmes en la hechui'a y ei color descal- 

zos todos y sill levantar los ojos de la tierra, acompafiamiento con 

apariencias de procesion ; y se vio a los lejos una gran tropa 

de gente mejor adornada y de mayor dignidad en cuyo medio venia 
Montezuma sobre los hombros de sus favorecidos, en unas andas de 
oro brunido," &c. I Montezuma himself, with "el scmblante 
magestuoso con algo de intencion. Su trageun manto de sutilisinw 
algodon,'' finest cotton I — though there were no Manchester mills 
in existence, and not a spinning jenny to help tlicm. " Trahia 
sobre si diflerentes joyas de oro, perlas, y piedras preciosas en tanto 
numero, que Servian mas al peso, que al adorno," &c. 

This probably the Spaniards thought, and kindly in their own 
minds resolved to relieve him of such a cruel weight, and any of 
his friends and followers who were similarly inconvenienced. Then 
on approaching nearer, they saw the mighty Emperor of the 
Aztecs descend from his resplendent palanquin (canopied with 
glittering and many-colored decorations of feather-work) and ad- 
vance to meet the Spanish commander, leaning on the arms of 
two of his relations, the Lords of Tezcuco and of Iztac])alapan. 

In coming from Vera Cruz you do not enter Mexico by the 
most beautiful approach, and we had unfavorable Aveather ; at 
least the enormous volumes of dust, like the columns of sand in tho 
Desert, hid the greater part of the sublime prospect from our eyes. 
Still, here and there we had glimpses of its almost supernatural 
beauty, and of the majesty of those mountains, which seem so 
jealously to surround it, and shut in all that fairy land of loveliness, 
that seems a " locked, and guarded, and a treasured thing." 
Around those giant heights clung light fleecy clouds. As to the 
exceeding enchantment of what even those glimpses revealed, it is 
indescribable ; yet M. de Lamartine might do it justice (lie only 
has portrayed Constantinople in fitting, living words), or Eothen. 

Every body seemed intensely delighted to be at last near this 
Queen of Cities. One cigar-loving Mexican gentleman, who 
seemed very pensive all day, and reduced by the awful shaking 
and jolting, and the dust, and the after-storm of mire, to the merest 
remains of a powder-pulf, a jelly, an expiring whifl^ of tobacco, and 
a spla.sh of mud, suddenly picked himself up, and put himself to- 
gether again, and began actually to sing for very joy (it was a very 
quavering strain, I confess, as if the voice had not got over the 
rough treatment it had received) : he was very like a musical box 
tuned up and set a-going mechanically, for he never ceased this 
strain for a moment — the time was unaltered, the expression the 



184 TRAVELS IN AJNIERICA. 

same, or rather the non-expression ; and this long series of sha/ces 
continued, neither lower nor higher, quicker nor slower, uninterrupt- 
edly to be poured Ibrth till w'e stopped at the hotel. 

I with my little party had been fortunate in one respect, for we 
had had one side of the cocJic secured comlbrtably to ourselves. I 
heard an amusing answer to a remark that was made one day — 
that our danger was greater from within than from Avithout (with 
a glance at the loaded blunderbusses), " No tieneV. cuid;idolv,no 
hay mucho peligro I" — " Do not fear; there's not muck danger." 

I admired exceedingly, as Ave drove along, the beautiful Arbol 
de Peru, with its graceful branches, and some very singular cac- 
tuses, called, 1 am told, organos from their remarkable resemblance 
to the barrels of an organ. These were formed into extremely 
beautiful hedges, most artistically arranged, so as to grow in the 
shape of gigantic festoons, the tallest being very high. They 
make a formidable fence too, thickly set with prickles, almost as 
good, or as bad, as a c/icvaux de /rise. There were some Brob- 
diguagian aloes too (the Maguey), with leaves about a dozen feet 
long. 

In coming to the hotel, we drove past the majestic old cathedral, 
situated in a most magnificent plaza, and another fine church, on 
crutches, as it were, so was it prop[)ed and held up, while its huge 
form seemed leaning over the street very threateningly. This was 
the work of the sharp earthquake Avhich had nearly destroyed the 
city some years ago. .People say, that, if it had lasted two minutes 
longer, all Mexico would have toppled over. (So it really must 
have been a little worse than our diligencia-quakes.) We saw 
other traces and symptoms of that terrible visitor, as we rolled 
heavily along, behind our handsome team of large powerful Yankee 
horses, who quickly dragged lis through the noble and populous 
streets, over Avhich, already, the shades of evening were beginning 
to settle ; and soon our ibrtilication on M'hcels rolled into the court- 
yard of the Casa di Diligencias, and capitulated at discretion. 

The doors were thrown open, we made a movement to get out 
— huge volumes of dust rolled out of the doors — hidden awhile 
IVom mortal eyes and each other in these lloating shrouds, we de- 
scended like so many ApoUos and Minervas from the clouds, and 
still enwrapped in them. The living musical box, em^eloped in 
mystery, seemed suddenly to come to the end of its mechanical 
melodies, and, clapping on its huge sombrero, gave a jump out of 
the vehicle, that must have broken all the springs and works in its 
body, and vanished. (Xofa Bene. — This same musical box was 



M. DE ZURUTUZA. 185 



pleaslnjj and well-bred, and a very good specimen of a polished 
Mexican.) The diliercnt passengers evaporated dilierent ways, 
and we found waiting to congratulate us on our safe arrival, by 
the side of the diligence, our friends Lord M. Kerr, and Mr. P — , 
the latter buttoned up to tlie chin, not without some reason, for 
the evening air was chilly ; and 1 have found since, the mornings 
and evenings are a little coldish iu Mexico — at least at this time 
of the year, yet not assuredly nearly so much so as iu the spring iu ' 
England. In the day-time it is quite warm. 

1 ibund Mexico so fashionably lull, that we could get no room 
of any sort or kind at the Casa de Bazar, where I had intended to 
go (it having been recommended to me), but we are very comfort- 
able here. This hotel is the property of the Diligence-king of 
Mexico, who is master of about a hundred or more, I suppose. 
M. de Zurutuza is immensely rich, and has lately, I understand, 
purcViased a magnificent estate, for which he gave an enormous 
price, but he still keeps on his hotel. Of course the superintend- 
ence of it is entirely given up to a Prime Minister, who administers 
the aflairs with great zeal and discretion. 

There is a capital housekeeper too, who showed us a splendid 
suite of apartments the other day (M. de Zurutuza being away) 
which are reserved for the proprietor. They are luxuriously fur- 
nished : some are hung with pictures, others with very line French 
and English engravings. There is a superb piano-forte there, on 
which we were graciously invited by the Jmime de cliargc to play 
whenever we liked. 

Mr. called the day after we arrived. He apologized, as 

he ought to do, for having no pretty little ivommiciamiento?. to 
show us just at this moment, which seems extraordinary, as there 
is, it is well-known, usually a running revolution going on in 
Mexico — perhaps they arc taking breath a little, after the Amer- 
ican war. 

This national sport is generally not quite so dangerous as steeple- 
chases or fox-hunting, and far less so than bull-fighting. It is de- 
scribed as an amusing little diver thaement enough, and the pop- 
gunning and cannonading must have a lively and festive efiect. 

Altogether, the political horizon seems to be very calm and clear 
just now, though there was a very pretty and promising little re- 
bellion got up at Puebla about ten days ago, which was blighted 
iu the bud, and one here about the same time, that burst like a 
bubble, or a " biler" on the Mississippi. The one at Puebla broke 
for1h rather tamely, and came 1o an untimely end — it committed 



186 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

suicide, perhaps, with a precocious squib, or an inconsiderate 
cracker. 

It really seems to be the native land of revolutions, there having 
been about three hundred and thirty, large and small, since the 
War of Independence. Here the doctrine of compensation is ap- 
parent ; people can not be allowed to live in such a paradise for 
nothing. We may go on and enjoy our jog-trot peace and quiet 
at homo in our misty little island ; we have to keep our windows 
shut to exclude the fog and chilling dropping rain : it would be 
hard to have them brokeii open by drizzling cannon balls, and 
rather expensive too, though glass is cheap. We want a good 
roof over our heads, to prevent rude Boreas from visiting us ; to 
have it summarily blown off by a shell would be a double hardship 
in our bitter clime. So we have the blessings of order, as main- 
tained by our metropolitan and jural police ; and of britannia 
warming-pans and coal-scuttles : and the non-blessings of fog, ice, 
snow, clouds, east winds, and unripe gooseberries. They have 
glorious suns, and balmy airs, and mighty mountains, and dazzling 
stars, gold and purple skies, a silver earth, and insurrections of 
every pattern and species, a large assortment always on hand, 
agreeably diversified by numerous little stabbings and killings, by 
undisciplined amateurs ; lor the veguliu jjronuiiciamiaito must be 
quite a profession in Mexico, by all accounts, and is conducted on 
principles of high art. 

However, it is liable to abuses, as every thing else is, and they 
say if the little boys want to rob an apple-stall they get up a small 
p>-o?iu?iciamientito, and call, "Viva General Santa Anna," or 
any body else, to strike terror into the soul of the McmzafUi-seWer, 
and, as they hope, to make President Herrera shake in his chair, 
and then they rush on to the charge, and divide their apples of 
discord in peace. Such a Brummagem proiiiDiciaviicnto as that, 
it would not be worth while to see ; but as there are so many En- 
glish and foreigners in the city, the Mex-icans really should get up 
scientifically this characteristic little national spectable for their 
amusement and edification — though, perhaps, a spontaneous growth 
is better : forced, like early asparagus, these interesting little in- 
surrections might be possibly insipid. 

Talking of revolutions, I was told a tale of a lady at Puebla, 
who had some beautiful flowers on her balcony, and wbo neglected 
them during the civil war, a week ago (we came through as it 
was dying off, I believe, but we were rather sleepy and did not 
find it out at all). She left them for nearly three days, and then, 



GOVERNMENT FOR MEXICO. 187 

afraid that they would be quite spoiled, in spite of the peppering 
balls that lell round faster than usual (the popular tempest, just 
going to clear oil perhaps for a few weeks or so, was expending its 
last strength fitfully), out she stepped, on her fair balcony, armed 
with a watering-pot — not so bad a weapon after all, if it could 
have held enough — and ])roceeded to refresh the unlucky Ilowers, 
some of which had had their heads carried ofi' by bullets, while 
several were bearing scars hke the very flowers of chivalry. She 
watered them pretty fast, you may be sure, but before she had 
done, bang came a great ball, and cut in two the body of a flower- 
pot. That was enough ; away ran the lady at once, thinking 
that the flowers had better be killed than herself 

Some contemplative persons would say the people would be 
happier than they are now, under a mild, paternal, unmistakable 
despotism, and it is rumored that the army and the church would 
have no objection to furnish them with the said despotism on rea- 
sonable terms. But then each individual general and priest would 
patriotically wish to serve the public in the capacity of autocrat, 
and take the trouble off his iellow-creatures' hands. But I am 
against all plans of this sort, and any thing that might disturb 
that just equilibrium of compensation I have adverted to. The 
people would be too happy, positively ; they would all turn to 
musical boxes, like my diligence friend, and go whistling and piping 
away all their lives, too full of ecstasy, perhaps, to work or think 
— crazed with very bliss in this Eden of the earth. 

If you were to give them the mighty Nicholas, and his firm, 
strong, temperate government — for such it is — the consequences 
might be irightful. A whole people, perhaps, light-headed from 
very light-heartedness, too happy for any thing ; a nation in a long 
delirium of joy ; intoxicated with ielicity. Besides, they would be 
the envy of the whole world (with their climate, their country, all 
their advantages, and no daily battles), and thus hated of all. No; 
they oicght to have a little share of the trials of mortals, or the in- 
habitants of the rest of this earth would feel it unfair indeed I The 
Presidentship, held for a short term of years, must be a fruitful 
source of jealousy and quarreling in general, except in the United 
States ; but they are au extraordinary people, there, and it will 
not do to step in a giant's footsteps, unless you are somewhere 
about the same size, and with a nearly equal length of limb ; un- 
less this is the case, there is a great chance of the one who makes 
the attempt coming upon his nose. 

I should think that the good people here (who, without being 



188 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

as capable of self-government as the calm, thoughtful, shrewd, 
resolute Yankees, are intelligent and sensible) would be far happier 
if they would first take care to get a very good President, and then 
take care to keep him as long as he lives ; and instead of changing 
state-postillions at relay-stations only a short way apart — go on (as 
Eotheu, I think, says of marriage) Vetturini-vvise along to the end 
of their journey — at all events as far as he can take them — and 
the next generation may find a new one. 

The streets here look wonderiully gay, almost always, like Naples 
on a holiday, so crowded, and so brilliant, though the people are 
generally, I think, more serious and taciturn, Irom the little I have 
seen of them, than the Neapolitans. But there are such multitudes 
of them, and such quantities of carriages of various kinds, from the 
London Brougham or the Paris britska to the most charming orig- 
inal, aboriginal, indescribable, huge nondescripts, drawn by aston- 
ished looking mules, that do not so much seem to be trying to drag 
them, as attempting to race away from them with might and 
main, utterly scared ; * and they really look as if they were about 
to topple over, and crush every thing near them. Gate! get out 
of the way, ye very mountains, for the runaway old globe seems 
taking a gallop — a world on wheels. 

In the days when Montezuma or Guatamozin was emperor, the 
Lord Mayor of Tenoehtitlan might have gone to his Guildhall in 
such an awful equipage, in his full dress, thatched all over with 
feathers, and with a couple of Aztec Gogs and Magogs standing 
behind as footmen. However comfortable and convenient as a cai'- 
riage, a Brougham or Clarence may be, it looks almost like a dapper 
piece of impertinence by these time-honored, venerable vehicles. 
But, Shades of all the Aztecs, what comes there ] A New York 
omnibus, as large as life. Retire, gentlemen shades, at once, as 1 
should have done, Irom the window, had 1 had one, and had I seen 
the sight irom there. As it was, it was Irom the glass of Mr. 
's handsome English Brougham that 1 beheld it, and alto- 
gether I could hardly believe in Aztec chiefs or Indian emperors 
any more that day. An omnibus with " Fourth Avenue" on it. 

The streets, as I have said, are the gayest in the world, per- 
haps. They are generally very broad and clean. The iiortale^ 
are charming inventions : you have a wide corridor supported on 
handsome stone arches, with A'ery brilliant shops on the solid side, 

* Since I wrote this I have seen the same idea in Mr. Taylor's charming- 
hook, "El Dorado:"' — he must I'orgive the apparent plagiarism. It may, 
perhaps, serve to show how exact was his description. 



FRUIT-SELLERS. 189 



and the spaces between the supporting pillars are gayly filled with 
a vast variety of stalls, where you may buy little trays, playthings, 
dazzling sarapes of" all colors, flowing rebosos, mangas, tortillas ad 
libitum, tilmas (Indian cloaks), dulces (sweetmeats), pictures, little 
figures of saints, prints, shoes, and many other miscellaneous articles. 
The fruit-sellers exhibit their tempting piles of zapotes, cocoa 
nuts, and all sorts of fruit, from the Tierra Caliente, at the 
corners, and they display too an immense number of glasses and 
cups filled with cool and refreshing beverages to arrest the steps 
of the passer-by, heated, perhaps, by walking in the sun, before he 
came under those delicious places of refuge from sun, wind, or 
rain ; the first the most frequently making those portales desirable 
jiromenades. As I have seen them do at Naples, in the busy and 
stirring Strada Toledo, so in Mexico do the various tradestnen 
constantly pursue their occupation in the open air — that is to say, 
open here — save and except the umbrageous shelter of the covered 
porticoes. Of course, here are to be seen innumerable rebusos and 
sarapes, kaleidoscopicaliy diversified in both patterns and colors; 
a marvelous and almost endless variety of both, and also in the 
manner of draping them about the person. Look at that little 
urchin of perhaps six summers, with about a mile of glittering 
sarape wound around him, like a long, huge shining snake wreath- 
ing about his small person ; not, however, having caught that 
strutting little six-year-old in its gleanung coils, but being scorn- 
fully clutched and grasped and scotched (not killed — for it looks 
living in its spiral, serpentining grace — as living as the snake 
wound round Laocoon, which is saying a very great deal !) and, in 
short, tossed and thrown about at his will and pleasure ; and hoxv 
he stalks, how he attitudinizes, how he haughtily paces along 
(stepping like a young panther) with his splendid prey and prize ; 
how he gives the brilliant folds another proud toss over his shoul- 
ders — and methinks now he has chosen his, fashion and mode and 
manner of wearing the magical sarape, for ever and aye uncopied 
and uncopiable. A Mexican and his aarape seem one and indi- 
visible, like the ancient Centaurs and their horses — inseparable 
and the same. The whole dress is very graceful ; what a horror 
is a swallow-tailed coat in comparison, and the crown of all the 
hideousness of modern European dress — the tight black hat ; how 
frightful is it by the picturesque sombrero, with its delicate silver 
cords and hanging tassels. They sometimes have the cord 
fastened by some little silver wrought bird or animal, exquisitely 
finished. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

The Cathedral of Mexico — The Grand Plaza — The Palace — Importunity of 
Begtjars — Site of the Cathedral once occupied by the Grand Aztec Tem- 
ple — Description of the Temple by old Spanish Writers — The Interior of 
the Cathedral — The Calendar Stone of the Aztecs — The Stone of Sacri- 
fices — The Aztec Priests and their Victims — The Idol worshiped — The 
National Museum — Colossal Statue of Charles IV. of Spain — Armor of 
Cortez and Pedro de Alvarado — "El Salto de Alvarado" — Ancient Map 
of Mexico — Beauty of the City — The Shops and their Multiplicity of 
Articles — Mexican Horse Furniture — Mexican Houses — The Piaza del 
Toros. 

We started to see the magnificent cathedral, wearing as usual, 

our gringos bonnets ; Mr. P told us we should haply not be 

admitted in that head-dress ; but being already accoutred, and 
inclined to think he was possibly in error, we continued on our 
way, resolved to try our fate. 

When we came into the Grand Plaza, a little doubt and hesi- 
tation came over us. What streams of rebosos and mantillas were 
going in and out of the building — not one bonneted head any- 
where I Should we go on or turn back ? One must have some- 
thuig on the head — simply unbonneting would not do. In de- 
liberating mentally on the difficulty, and giving it due earnest 
consideration, I was disposed to believe, that our wearing bonnets, 
or no bonnets, then and there, would scarcely be regarded in the 
light of an ecclesiastical subject, or occasion an ecclesiastical con- 
troversy ; that Protestants like us, if once allowed the enjoyment 
and free use of our abominable heretical heads, might, without 
doubt, put any thing upon them we chose ; and that if an Inqui- 
sition had still existed, and we had been given over to its tender 
mercies, the bonnet question would have easily been put to an 
end, by the heads that wore them being " put dowai" at once by 
the inflexible Sir Peter Laurie of that stern tribunal. So the 
bonnets were retained, and we leisurely and calmly crossed the 
stately Grand Plaza, one of the finest I ever beheld in Europe, 
Asia, Africa, or America. 

The whole of its vast space is uninterruptedly open, save by the 
twofold avenue of orange-trees in front of the cathedral. The 
noble equestrian statue of Charles IV. at one time stood in the 
centre, but, since the Independence war, it has been taken from 



THE CATHEDRAL OF MEXICO. 191 

its high position, and placed in the court-yard of the Museum, 
where, in these revolutionary days, it might have a select society 
of statues of deposed kings to accompany it, and have a friendly 
ride together. The splendid national palace covei's nearly the 
whole of the eastern side of the Plaza (it has a princely frontage 
of five hundred feet) ; while the vast cathedral, with a very hand- 
some church contiguous to it, which has a beautifully sculptured 
front, occupies the northern side : it is said they are going to pull 
this church down. Around the other sides a Cortal runs, whose 
noble arches exhibit an immense profusion of heterogeneous articles 
for sale. 

We were assailed by many beggars and Upcros near the Cathe- 
dral. I had not then learnt the recognized and proper method of 
dismissing them, if you are not inclined to encourage their laziness, 
by giving them any reales or quartillos. This is by saying, 
" Ferdone V. por Dios," or " Perdone V. Hermano ;" but I im- 
provised a very efficient substitute in my own sturdy Anglo-Saxon, 
which, after a few repetitions, I can recommend as answering the 
purpose thoroughly. " Pray go away, I've nothing for you," — a 
thousand signs and gesticulations, to make me understand he wants 
money. " You had better go away," — he mutters something : 
looks perplexed ; — " Don't stand there in the pathway," — he can 
stand the strange gibbei-ish no longer, and moves away discomfited. 
The effect is very lasting, too 1 I don't think the same lepero 
ever attacked me again. They seemed to have a sort of iear that 
the heretic might have been pronouncing some dreadful words of 
sorcery or witchcraft, and in short, that they had better avoid any 
further communication. 

How beautiful the Plaza looked that morning in the glorious 
sunshine, with its picturesque crowds of monks, priests (with their 
enormous shovel hats, over the spacious brims of which you might 
almost drive a carriage and four), soldiers, country people, vailed 
sefioras, Indians, for cats in chains, horsemen, laden mules, &c. ! 
It was impossible not to be struck with the scenes and living 
actors grouped and lounging about it. 

The cathedral is built upon the site of a portion of the ruins of 
the grand Aztec temple, that vast pyramidal edifice which was 
supposed to be founded by Ahuitzotli. This was the enormous 
idol-temple, which so astonished the Spanish conquerors by its size 
and magnificence. Its various piles of buildings, and courts, and 
sanctuaries, and halls, occupied, according to their statements, the 
whole of the ground on which the cathedral now stands ; and in 



192 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

addition, part of the Plaza, and even the circumjacent streets I 
The old writers expatiated on the wonderful assemblage of five 
hundred dwellings within its inclosure — on the mighty hall con- 
structed of stone and lime, and adorned with dreadful serpent- 
forms, writhing and hideous, in stone. There were four huge 
gates, facing the four cardinal points of the great court, paved 
with stone ; there Avere grand flights of stone stairs, and splendid 
sanctuaries, which were dedicated to the dreadful god of war. 
Then there vi'as a vast square for their mystic dances, and educa- 
tional establishments for the priests, and "genteel Ladies' Semina- 
ries" for the priestesses. 

There was a temple of mirrors (which for the sake of their 
studies we should, perhaps, hope was not adjoining the latter 
structures), and another of fair shells, and a frightful and terrible 
one, whose door was a giant serpent's great gaping mouth (possibly 
to frighten the priestesses away from the pavilion of looking-glasses 
next door — quicn sabe?) Then there were beauteous fountains, 
where consecrated waters glittered in the sun, making sweet 
music ; and richly-colored bright starry birds, such as abound in 
radiant Mexico, kept for sacrifice : and there was the house 
especially designed lor the emperor's devotions ; and the lovely 
bowers and gardens for the " holy flowers" — the scarlet manitas, 
I suppose (the centre of which is formed like a hand with the 
fingers slightly bending inward), and, terrible transition from the 
fairest and sweetest things in nature to all that is most ghastly 
and loathsome — there, too, stood the grinning Towers of Skulls. 

Yes I there rose the horrible skull-towers, actually built of that 
portion of the skeletons of the victims sacrificed to their monster 
idols. In that stupendous temple, they tell us, chanted night and 
day, at least five thousand priests in the service of their barbarous 
false divinities, who were anointed three times a day with per- 
fumes of the most precious and costly description. They tell us, 
too, that the most devout of these priests were dressed in garments 
of sable hue, their flowing locks stained deeply, with some sort of 
ink, and their persons carefully bedaubed with a rather curious 
kind of cosmetic, made of the ashes of burnt scorpions and spiders. 
Whether this was done to improve or disfigure, I know not : if it 
had been in Tierra Caliente, I should have thought it was, per- 
haps, a cunning " dodge" to keep musquitoes away. 

Imagine their horrible god of war, Megitli, being born with a 
shield in one hand, an arrow in the other, a great plume of pea- 
green feathers on his villainous pate, his visage dyed a sort of true 



MEXICAN FUNERAL. 193 

I 

or garter blue, and his left leg adorned with — not the insignia of 
the Order of the same Garter — but with a luxuriant crop of 
feathers : the monster's colossal statue thus represents him. It is 
supposed that somewhere about fifty thousand human victims 
were sacrificed every year in Mexico alone to their different idol 
demons I The knowledge of this takes away very much from 
one's interest in the Aztecs, and even (less justly) one's compassion, 
lor poor ill-used Montezuma. Surely they must have been a 
cruel people originally to have had so cruel a religion, but, of 
course, individually, may be entirely exonerated from such a 
charge. 

The cathedral covers an immense space of ground, has two 
lofty white ornamented towers, and its interior is inconceivably 
rich and splendid. There is a very costly balustrade, that occu- 
pies the centi-e of the church, which is composed of a metal 
brought from China, through the Philippine Islands. It is called 
from this circumstance, " Metal de China :" it is supposed to be a 
composition of brass and silver, and is very massive. It is said to 
have cost an immense sum, as it was actually paid for by the 
weight in hard dollars, and some say it contains so much gold, 
that a rich silversmith in Mexico oflered the bishop a new silver 
rail of exactly equal weight, in exchange for the old metal ! 

On the hallowed pavement of the cathedral stood or knelt a 
large number of persons, and we discovered that a funeral service 
was going on there. Beside the colhn on the bier, which was 
placed rather near the entrance, were priests chanting dismally 
and very nasally. A number of lighted candles vi-ere disposed 
round the coffin — holy water was thrown on it, and soon after 
the corpse was carried out. It appeared to be the funeral of a 
poor person, as the mourners were miserably attired. Subsequent- 
ly, and with only a brief interval, another coffin M'as brought in, 
and the same ceremony repeated. The nave, with its arch rest- 
ing on pillars of a partly Gothic character, and the high altar at 
the extremity, with its magnificent pile, resplendent with burnish- 
ed gold and solid silver, and costly marbles, formed a very impos- 
ing spectacle. The many shrines along the side ai.sles were adorn- 
ed with different pictures, and on all sides were beheld the glitter 
-of gold and the pomp of almost inexhaustible treasure. Some of 
the railings and the lamps are said to be of solid silver. There 
was a long row of iemale penitents kneeling at the altar, with im- 
mense lighted candles in their hands ; they turned round and 
Etared our bonnets entirely out of countenance, smiling as they did 

I 



194 TRAVELS ]N AMERICA. 

SO, and I am afraid nudging one another ; we relieved our poor 
shamefaced bonnets from their embarrassment, by removing them 
quickly from their gaze. 

After quitting the interior of the cathedral we threaded our 
•way among the Seiioras and Seiioritas, leperos, rancheros, Indians 
and begging children (who are terrible little tormoits in Mexico, 
and pursue you sometimes mounted upon each other's shoulders, 
like the posturing Arabs), and went to see on the outer wall of the 
building the famous calendar stone of the Aztecs. It is fastened on 
the wall, and is a very large circular stone of basaltic porphyry, 
covered with curious hieroglyphical figures, by which the Aztecs 
used to designate the ditlerent months of the year, and which it is 
thought ibrmed a perpetual calendar. This immense sculptured 
stone, with its astronomical signs, gives one a more favorable idea 
of the people than the horrible idolatries I have spoken of before. 

We have lately been to see the National Museum, which is 

extremely interesting. Mr. D was good enough to be our 

cicerone. 

Let me give the reader a slight idea of the dreadful Stone of 
Sacrifices, which, however, at once puts to flight all the better 
opinions that the great calendar might have induced one to form 
of the ancient lords of the land. It was upon this that their hid- 
eous human sacrifices were performed, those with which the great 
Temple of ancient Tenochtitlan was so fearfully disgraced and de- 
filed. This stone is in excellent preservation, and bears its silent 
but eloquent and terrible testimony to the horrors and barbarities 
of their so called religious rites and ceremonies. It has a hollow 
in the centre, into M'hich was inserted a piece of jasper, and upon 
this were stretched the miserable victims, while their hearts were 
deliberately cut out by the pitiless priests. There are little canals 
or grooves, which slant toward the edge, for carrying ofi' the blood 
of the unhappy sufferer. Hard by is the hideous idol's shrine, in 
whose honor these detestable sacrifices were performed. The ex- 
tracted palpitating heart was laid at the grotesque monster's feet, 
after being inspected by the high priest, and subsequently intro- 
duced into his open mouth. The tongue projected ; and in the 
hollow thus made, the revolting offering was thrust, being pushed 
in with a spoon of gold by the chief priest. 

We are told that the unibrtunate wretches were held down by 
six priests, while the appalling operation was performed. The 
collars have been preserved (and were shown to us) which they 
put on the necks ol' the helpless victims to keep them quiet, while 



THE IDOL WORSHIPED. 195 

the abominable murderers " stole their hearts away," in this most 
atrocious fashion. Alas I to think there was no ether and no 
chloroform in those days — not that those merciless demons would 
have used it, though. 

During the ghastly tragedies above mentioned, those half dozen 
assistant executioners, it appears, were wont to be clad in red gar- 
ments, Avith waving crests of green feathers on their heads ; in 
their ears were hung rings of green and gold, and blue stones 
were cunningly fastened in the upper lips. What beauties must 
they have looked I They had actually devised a costume more 
outrageously, ugly than that of our parish beadles, or even than 
the old Windsor uniform. 

After the devoted hearts had been extracted (the poor victims 
would have found it very difficult to retaliate on their tormentors 
— the heartless barbarians !) they cut off the heads of the unfortu- 
nates, and used them in adding to the Tower of Skulls ; then they 
devoured some portions of the bodies, and consumed the remainder, 
or flung it to some of the wild animals that were confined and 
kept in the palace precincts. Some speak of that foul idol as a 
goddess ; — what a vile representative of a Queen of Hearts I 

After that sight I shall not scowl again at a New York omni- 
bus, or any other evidence of human progress and civilization. I 
should not feel shocked — not much — if I saw that horrible old 
gaping idol thrust into a modern deal packing-case (supposing it 
were less huge), and addressed, 

" To Montezuma and Guatamozin, Esqs., 

In the Shades (of the Cypresses), 

Chapultepec Gardens. 
Per omnibus, 

To be left till called for. 

If the case -were directed to those sanguinary priests, it would 
be asking the omnibus to go a little too much out of its tvay to 
leave it for them. 

The idol in question is the hugset and most hideous of all the 
abominable objects scattered round the great sacrificial stone, he- 
terogeneous combinations of human figures, with those of animals 
and reptiles. The presiding genius of the place — this horror of 
horrors — the Aztec god of war — rejoices in the euphonious name 
of Queatzalcoatl (which sounds somewhat like the quacking of a 
duck, and sometimes like quizzical), is about fourteen feet high, 
with four faces, and pairs of arms and legs in proportion. (I hope 
I have not confounded this with the other respected gentleman, 



196 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Megitli, and that in reality this old " quizzical" is the god of the 
ail). His ehasmy mouth seems angrily yawning lor its awful ac- 
customed banquet. One almost felt inclined to pin a paper, in 
mockery and revenge, deaf-and-dumb beggar fashion, to its breast, 
with " starving" written thereon. 

The remainder of the abominations scattered on the pavement 
around, were, some of them like Chinese inventions of deformity, 
and others peculiar, I think, to Aztec conceptions ; such as ser- 
pents in a full dress of leathers, and other incongruities. Queat- 
zalcoatl might be presented to the Peace Congress, methinks, as a 
very fair representation and embodiment of the terrible genius of 
war. 

These hateful and yet painfully interesting relics of antiquity, 
are collected in the court-yard of the Museum, and railed round. 
We were admitted, however, inside the fence, and so had an ex- 
cellent view of them. In the centre of this cpurt-yard stands the 
famous colossal equestrian statue of Chijrles IV., executed by the 
Mexican sculptor, Tolsa. It is very highly praised by Humboldt, 
and in general is said to be the finest work of the kind in the New 
World. It is of bronze. The horse (modeled from an Andalusian 
charger, I believe) I could not admire : it looked clumsy, I thought, 
and without any symmetry. It has spirit, however, and its royal 
rider looks animated and life-like. The attitude is fine and strik- 
ing, and altogether it is a very noble work. Lord M. Kerr took 
a capital sketch of it. 

In the interior of the Museum we saw many interesting remains 
of the ancient Indian possessors of the country, and also mementos 
of the earlier Spanish race. Here are preserved the coats of mail 
of the groat Cortez and of Alvarado. Cortez, judging from his 
armor — helmet, cuishes, and breastplate — must have been a man 
of about the height of the Duke of Wellington (a height much in 
fashion for heroes in all ages), and of a powerful frame. Pedro de 
Alvarado, who performed the celebrated leap, on the far-famed 
nighf'which obtained the melancholy name of the JS'uche T/iste, 
apparently was slighter and rather taller than his great chief 
The measure of this wonderful leap is still shown on a walk near 
the spot, wdiile the fosse, crossed by a little bridge (it is, however, 
I believe, filled up now), retains the denomination of " El Salto de 
Alvarado." 

This Salto took place on the 1st of July, 1520, when the Span- 
ish invaders were compelled to retreat from Mexico to the heights 
of Tepeyayac. On this mournful and memorable occasion Cortez 



'•EL SALTO DE ALVARADO." 197 

commanded the troops to march in silence. The vanguard was 
led by the intrepid and invincible Sandoval : the valiant Pedro de 
Alvarado brought up the rear. It was indeed a melancholy night 
— a nodic triste in every sense. The rain poured down in almost 
sheets of water ; the heavens were obscured by black clouds ; the 
splendid rnoon and stars of" Mexico were invisible — all was quiet — 
the dreary echoes of the splashing rain alone drowned the measured 
steps of the retreating Spaniards. A wooden bridge, to enable 
them to traverse the moats or canals, was borne along by a num- 
ber of the soldiers, and on they went, full of determination and 
energy, under their renowned leaders. The first canal was passed 
in saiety — the hostile sentinels, who guarded it, were overpowered ; 
but the sound of the almost momentary struggle had aroused one 
or more of the watchful priests. The consecrated trumpets were 
loudly blown — " To arms I" was the cry ; and the suddenly awak- 
ened city sprang from its peaceful slumber. The retreating forces 
of Cortez were rapidly hemmed in, and surrounded by water and 
land. They had just reached the second canal, and there the 
hideous conflict raged fearfully : the canal was literally bridged 
over with dead bodies, and along them the rear guard passed. 
Cortez performed prodigies of valor, and poor Alvarado of jump- 
ing ; yet not against him be this recorded. Alone by chance on 
the border of the third canal to which he had fought his way, 
with intrepid courage, his horse being killed, and himself encircled 
by merciless enemies (perhaps with the pleasing idea of Queatzal- 
coatl before him) against whom it was hopeless for him to contend 
single-handed, he, with prompt decision, planted his lance firmly 
in the bottom of the canal, and lightly leaning his Aveight against 
it, sprang into the air, and vaulted over with an agile bound safely 
to the opposite shore, leaving the Indians gaping and gazing with 
uncontrollable admiration and wonder at the tremendous feat. A 
contemporary author says, when they beheld this surprising leap 
they ate earth by handi'uls. To bite the dust, it appears, was to 
express approbation in those days — a disagreeable mode, we should 
think, of elaborating a bravo. How expensive a way it would be 
in California I (Had they had Jenny Lind in those days, small 
landed proprietors would have eaten their whole estates bodily.) 
But the reader will be tired of "Alvarado of the .Leap," whose 
leap I have certainly not skipped over. 

Mr. D pointed out to us, among other things, the fine map 

of Ancient Mexico, which was actually given by Montezuma to 
Cortez. There was a vast assemblage of antiques on every side — 



19S TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Indian idols, amulets, and ornaments (mostly cut in obsidian, I 
believe). Many of the idols and figures bear a striking resemblance 
to Egyptian images. 

Among ancient curiosities were some modern ones — eastern 
mirrors and Chinese nondescripts, and some marvelously well-ex- 
ecuted figures, made of rags by the modern Mexicans. An old 
woman, who is dying they say, is the only person (except a daugh- 
ter of hers, whom she has taught) who knows how to make them 
now. There are wax ones that are also clever, but they are very 
common, and not to be compared to those of this "Ragged School" 
of Art. 

At one end of the room there was a little plant of the manita 
flower ; there are but three trees of the Arbol de las Manitos 
{C]ieirosienio7i platamfolium), I am informed, in Mexico : it 
grows to a considerable size. Two are to be found in the Botan- 
ical Gardens, and one is in the Toluca Mountains. 

1 was introduced in the Museum to an English gentleman, who 
has lately arrived here from a sojourn of two years in Siberia — a 
voluntary exile. He then left Kamtschatka in a Russian merchant 
vessel, visited Polynesia, and subsequently the interior of South 
America. He had just come from, the western coast of Mexico, 
and intends going from Vera Cruz by the next packet, on his way 
home. What an extensive and interesting tour I 

After the stillness and seclusion of the Museum, and the grim 
company of so many grinning idols and dusty relics of the past, the 
gay streets, overflowing as usual with pedestrians, horsemen, and 
carriages, seemed doubly exhilarating and amusing ; not that I did 
not appreciate those memorials of the olden time, and wish there 
were many more of them, unspoiled and unshattered : for well 
says the old Mexican, Ant. de Gama, " Quantos preciosos monu- 
mentos de la antiquedad por falta de intelligenza, habran perecido 
en esta maiiera." 

1 wish I could give any adequate idea of the beauty of Mexico, 
it is so unlike any other place in the world. Humboldt says, set- 
ting aside its very peculiar situation, that it is one of the very finest 
cities ever built by Europeans in either hemisphere, being only in- 
ferior to St. Petersburgh, London, Berlin, or Philadelphia, as re- 
spects the regularity and length of its streets, as M'ell as the extent 
of its public places. But then to make these compare with charm- 
ing Mexico, you must widen and adorn those streets with those 
gay covered colonades, the portalcs (the despicable and discarded 
Regent-street covered way gave not the slightest idea of them), 



MEXICAN SHOPS. 199 



pour into them the picturesque and streaming population of a 
NeapoHtan hoUday, give them a sky overhead yet clearer and 
more exquisitely beautiful than that of fair Parthenopc herself, 
enthrone everlasting spring upon their terraces and gardens, and 
then place the whole in such a paradisiacal valley as this, with its 
giant wall around it, of the snow-crowned Cordillera. 

Fancy coming at the end of Bond-street or Park-lane, to a view 
of suhlimer Alps, and more colossal Pyrenees. On looking down 
any of the principal thoroughiares and streets of this capital, you 
behold these grand mountain forms towei'ing into the sky, clearly 
defined against the lucid lustrous cerulean of the heavenly arch, 
and sometimes almost as if they were within a stone's throw, so 
marvelously pure is this atmosphere. 

I wonder if the shops and stalls ai'e always so abundantly pro- 
vided as they seem to be now : perhaps they are particularly full, 
as it is so near the Carnival. In many of the shops are the most 
beautiful materials for ladies' dresses, shawls of all the colors of 
the prism, scarfs of all the shapes and patterns which Proteus, or 
Mrs. and the Misses Proteus could have by possibillity desired. 
You might ransack your imagination in vain for a quarter of the 
multiplicity of articles which greet the eyes at every turn. 

What is there not to be found here ? Look round ; here aro 
Bombi'eros, mantillas, tebosos, satins, silks, silver, gold, china, pic- 
tures, mats, and twenty thousand things besides, all close at hand ; 
and just look at those splendidly embroidered cloth-mangos for 
gentlemen, with a circular piece of colored velvet in the middle to 
act as a sort of masculine necklace. Here are wax figures, most 
elaborately and exquisitely finished, faithful representations of 
every class in Mexico, a perfect population in themselves, and, it 
is asserted, not given to the melting mood, which you would have 
suspected. Here are spurs, like merely moderately-sized windmills I 
that weigh, some of them, a pound and a half, and the rowels of 
which clatter along the pavements when the wearer happens to 
Avalk, like a traveling tinker's store on an uproarious and kicking 
donkey. And here are gold and silver ornaments in lace, and 
aerial flounces and furbelows, and artificial flowei's, which it is said 
— but I can not corroborate the assertion by having witnessed any 
thing of the sort — are made by men ; and that you may there see 
a whole regiment of stout, active Mexicans, who ought to be 
quarrying stone, or working in the mines, or mending their abom- 
inable roads (Avhich must destroy a large proportion of ill.-starred 
travelers annually, we should think), with enormous mustaches, 



200 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

and desperate looking cuchillos at hand, actually emploj'ed in 
mincingly manipulating delicate decorations for ladies' dresses, 
trimming fairy caps, and artistically twisting and pinning bows of 
ribbon. 

Would the reader like to give two hundred dollars for a cheap 
pair of Guadalaxara stamped leathern boots, wrought all over with 
silver ] and a saddle for about double that trifling sum ? Would 
he admire more those /assos or mrapcs, or beautiful Mexican hats 
with their tassels and broad rolls of -shining silver, fastened with 
little lions, serpents, and other devices ? Or has he any fancy to 
pay away a small fortune for a complete set of horse furniture, and 
a full riding dress of the country to match ? It is a most beautiful 
costume altogether ; and one can not help hoping the Mexican 
cahallews will not give up their magnificent and appropriate cos- 
tume and splendid horse equipments, to adopt the ugly fashions of 
Europe. 

I heard English saddles were becoming very common here, but 
I am unpatriotically happy to say I have seen but few of them. 
But let us go back to the shops. There are the costly anqueras, 
stamped and gilt, or otherwise curiously and ingeniously wrought, 
and terminating in a fringe of multitudinous httle bells or tags, of 
silver generally, but sometimes of brass or iron, which jingle merrily 
as the sleilge bells of Kussia or Canada. These anqueras are 
sometimes of fur, embroidered richly with gold and silver in large 
stripes. And, close by, are the gold-embossed jackets ; then there 
are piles of large silver buttons, which are necessary for the adorn- 
ment of difierent portions of the dress ; there are trinkets, slippers, 
wares of all sorts, little images, all kinds of cotton and woolen 
cloth ; in fact, every thing, and all things, and a great deal besides I 

All the houses here are of stone. In the most distinguished 
portions of the city, I believe two sorts of hewn stone are used, 
porous amygdaloid and porphyry. The gates and balustrades are 
generally of iron and bronze. The houses have flat terraced roofs 
and large court-yards {'patioii) with colonnades running round 
them, and are often profusely adorned with plants. We are told 
lhe interior is often decorated with beautiful mosaic and arabesque. 
Few windows, in general, look out upon the streets. 

Some of the fronts arc enriched with glazed porcelain or beau- 
tifully carved and ornamented, and there is usually an imposing- 
looking arched gateway, in the centre, leading to the colonnaded 
patio; and through them you may occasionally catch delightful 
Arabian-night-like views of the splendid interiors. They often re- 



PLAZA DEL TOROS. 201 



minded me of the princely palaces of Genoa the Superb, of whose 
enchanted courts you may frequently catch similar peeps in driving 
along the streets, and which, seen in this rapid and partial manner, 
seemed like the aerial visions of a gorgeous dream. 

Through the Mexican gateways you see sometimes a beautiful 
fountain, sparkling against the sun, beds of flowers, or bowers of 
orange-trees, and the corridor's light and sculptured arches. Some 
of the buildings are tinted with rich and delicate roi?y hues, like 
the soft reflection of the rising or setting sun, and some have the 
faintest souj^^uii of a tinge imaginable, like a fairy's blush (if Queen 
Titania and her handmaidens ever do blush), and some arc com- 
pletely covered with frescoed arabesque designs. 

Mr. D has taken us to see the Plaza del Toros, the amphi- 
theatre for bull-fights. It is an enormous circular inclosui-e, in a 
very dilapidated condition, in consequence of which such exhibitions 
are at a stand-still here, for it is supposed not to be safe — so the 
poor bulls are. There is an immensely great national manufactory 
of tobacco in the southwest part of the city, which is said to sup- 
ply the entire legitimate demands for cigarros in the Confederation. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Mexico — The Viga — The Chinampas — Floating Gardens, Fields and Or- 
chards of the Aztecs — Abundance of Flowers in Mexico ; and of Fruits — 
The Fruit-stalls — The Meat and Poultry — Tortoises, Salamanders and 
FrofTS — The Population of the City of Mexico — Its numberless Vehicles 
Its Environs on Fete-days — Defective Police Arrangements — Frequent 
Robberies in Consequence — Mexican Chocolate — Victoriar.a. the Waiting- 
maid. 

We are more and more enthusiastically charmed with this peer- 
less Mexico. What a climate — what scenery I What a brilliant 
and busy city — what beauties and wonders on all sides! 

The Viga I am quite delighted with. It is an enchanting 
promenade, with a canal running on the side of it, half-overshadow- 
ed by lovely trees. The Arbol de Peru (Peruvian pepper-tree) was 
conspicuously graceful and striking among them. There were 
crowds of Indians in tlieir flat canoes, almost lost among heaps of 
flowers, and fruits, and vegetables. 

We visited the celebrated Chinampas, formerly the floating 
garden of the Aztecs, now stationary. They have taken up their 



202 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

permanent abode at a little distance from the canal of Chalco. 
The metropolis is principally supplied with vcg-etables from them 
still. There are flowers .sprinkled here and there. The old 
chroniclers tell us that in 1 245, after many persecutions, the Aztecs, 
wandering from place to place, left Chapultepec to establish them- 
selves in an island group to the south of Tezcuco Lake. Oppressed 
by Tezcucan chieftains, they sought refuge in Tezapan, where, 
having assisted the princes of that land in some insignificant wars, 
they were allowed to establish themselves, in freedom, in a city, 
which they named Mexicalsingo. But they were commanded by 
some oracle to transport themselves and their families from thence, 
to some islands to the eastward of Chapultepec, and to the western 
side of the Tezcuco Lake. 

Long before this, an old tradition was popular among them, 
to the efiect — that in whatever place they should see an eagle 
seated on a nopal, with its roots fixed in a rock, on that spot, they 
should hasten to found a city. They first hailed this sign in 1325, 
and there (in one of the islands in the lake) they founded the first 
house of their gods — the great Mexican temple, called, in their 
tongue, Teocalh. This history seems to me to bear a faint and 
perhaps merely fanciful resemblance to that of the modern Mor- 
mons, now settled in their flourishing city of the great Salt Lake. 

Thi'ough all of their Arab-like wanderings, wherever they stop- 
ped, those Aztecs were wont to cultivate the earth, and where 
they were then settled, frequently encircled by barbarous enemies, 
as they were, in the midst of a great lake, where fish Avere re- 
markably scarce, they devised the ingenious expedient of forming 
floating gardens, and fields, and orchards, on the surface of the 
tranquil Avaters. These they framed skillfully of the woven-to- 
gether roots of aquatic plants, wreathed and intermingled Avith 
various boughs and branches, and twigs, till they had secured a 
foundation strong enough to uphold a soil, formed of earth drawn 
from the bottom of the lake. Their corn and chili, and different 
plants i-equired for their sustenance, Avere sown on this. 

It appears that these gliding gardens, AA'ere ordinarily elevated 
about a foot above the surihce of the water, and Avere of an ob- 
long shape. Soon aiterward. these insulated and raft-like fields 
Avere adorned Avith lovely beds of countless flowers, which were 
not alone cherished by the people (who Avere great lovers of these 
luxuries of nature), but were employed in the worship of their 
idols, and were a favorite ornament of the palace of their new em- 
perors. These famed Chinampas, along the Viga canal, are noAV 



ABUNDANCE OF FLOWF.RS AND FRUITS. 203 

attached to the mainlands, on the grounds that lie between the 
two great lakes of Chalco and Tezciico. Little trenches, filled 
with water, appear to divide the gardens. There are small 
bridges, thrown across the -water, to keep up the communication 
with the mainland. The Indian proprietor has generally his 
humble hnt in the garden, but no longer can he (if desirous of 
removing lor a space, his "location"), seated in his canoe, tow 
along his I'airy and flowering island to another part of that fresh, 
silvery, glistening sea. 

Whether in gardens floating or fixed, flowers never fail them 
in their bewitching climate. Their roses are all rosrs des quatre 
saiso7is (so well rendered by Lord 's gardener " quarter ses- 
sions roses")! From March to June the flowery sea almost over- 
flows, and its many-colored waves, and sunny tides bury all in 
their beauty. We are told that, on the dins di fiesta, even the 
very humblest classes, are nearly smothered in roses, and crowned 
v/ith variegated garlands of carnations, poppies, sweet-peas, jessa- 
mine, and other gifts of the muniliceiit Flora of Mexico. 

If the inhabitants of this favored land rejoice in myriads of 
flowers, they have an equal good-lbrtune with respect to fruit. 
All climates and seasons contend in Mexico to please the natural 
or acquired tastes of the epicures of the land. The name of their 
fruits is Legion. Within a very few leagues you may have in 
Mexico the greatest imaginable variety of climates; in short, iVom 
the united influence of its peculiar geological structure, and tlie 
way in which heat is qualified by tlie diJierences of elevation in 
every portion of its extensive territory, t combines every conceiv- 
able production, and is unparalleled in the.se particulars on the 
face of the earth. 

The fruit-stalls are veritable natural curiosity shops ; the treas- 
ures of Pomona seem indeed here innumerable ; from the north, 
the south, the east, the west, they appe;ir to be gathered together 
in inexhaustible profusion ; chirimoyas, bananas, chicozapotes, 
pine-apples, pears, oranges, apples, grenaditas de China, melons, 
cocoa-nuts, black and white zapotes, capniin (the Mexican cherry), 
dates, mameys, mulberries, jdums, shaddocks, pomegranates, man- 
goes, citrons, walnuts, strawberries, and thousands of others. The 
consumption of these, and o(" vegetables, such as tomatoes, pota- 
toes, plantains, cauliflowers, garbanzos (a small bean, much in 
favor), gourds, cabbages, &c., is stated to be quite enormous in pro- 
})ortion to the population. I should think such articles of food, 
were much wholesomer, iu this climate, than meat ; but I believe, 



20-1 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

the city markets are also well supplied with the latter. Turkeys, 
and poultry in general, and a very great variety of wild water- 
ibwl arc abundant, and at very reasonable prices ; and also rab- 
bits, hares, pigeons, &c. They have besides, a choice selection of 
rather singular articles of diet, which the lower classes are said to 
patronize extensively : tortoises, creatures they call salamanders, 
and frogs. I have sometimes eaten the latter at Naples, and 
Ibund them excellent when fried ; very like a delicate little spring 
chicken ; but here I have never seen them brought to table. 

There is also a plentiful supply of good mutton, beef, and pork, 
but veal is said to be prohibited. The necessaries of existence 
ought to be cheap enough here, one should think, but in other 
things Mexico is reckoned a very expensive place to live in. 

The population here in general is of a mixed character, perhaps 
one half being Creoles (or descendants of the Spaniards), one Iburth 
Mestizoes, half castes between Europeans and Indians, and nearly 
another fourth copper-colored Indians ; with some Blacks and JMu- 
lattoes, and from six to seven thousand Europeans. 

Many of the grandees and magnates here (frequently successful 
speculators) are jjossessed of enormous wealth, but the masses are 
commonly lazy and indigent. Great numbers pass their time in 
lounging about the streets, portales, markets, church porches, and 
■various public buildings, asking charity of the passers by, and ap- 
])ealing usually to what they imagine to be the most lively feelings 
of the persons they address. " Senor, by the love of the most 
blessed Madonna I" and, " Madrecita, by the life of the little 
one I" and so ibrth. They seem a happy set of people, enjoying 
their far niente. My chdtdaitic always drew their most atten- 
tive regards, and I was almost afraid one day it would suddenly 
be snatched away from its ordinary sphere of being ; but they 
contented themselves, like good chiklren, with looking and not 
touching. 

The white Creoles are said to be distinguished for courtesy, 
gentleness of manners, kindness, and hospitality ; and, from the 
very little I have seen of them, I can readily believe it. 

Carriages seem literally to swarm in Mexico ; every body ap- 
pears to possess one or more. I believe the seiioras here consider 
it the most indispensable of all necessaries. There are carrateJas, 
and French open carriages, and English closed ones, and volantes, 
and I know not how many more species ; but they are multilbrrn 
and multinominal, and multitudinous ; and in the evening they 
appear in sho,nl<5. fillpd with iH^autifnl sefioras. and seiioritas, their 



ROBBERIES ERKQUENT IN MEXICO. 205 



large black eyes flashing out like lamps designed to dispel the 
gathering dusk. 

The environs of the city, too, are said to be generally gay and 
crowded iu the evening, especially on fete days, and to present a 
joyous scene of bustle and animation. Hundreds of light canoes, 
of diOereut sizes, mostly with awnings, and crowded with Mesti- 
zoes and native Indians, arc to be seen gliding along in all direc- 
tions on the shining canals, generally with an indelatigable guitar- 
player among the company, and some of the festive party singing 
or perhaps dancing. 

Mr. D says, however, from defective police arrangements, 

or other causes, it is dangerous to go out of the city after dusk 
without arms. Some persons incautiously doing so, liave been 
lassoed and plundered, and every body who is compelled to go 
should go well armed — more penalties for living in such a para- 
dise I They say these gentry who are so free with their lassos are 
mostly of the mongrel sort, part native (Indian), part Spanish, and 
part Negro ; and that the gangs of guerillas and robbers, which 
annoyed the American armies during the war, were chiefly formed 
of such tricolor individuals. 

Last night we ibund it a little too cool in our skylighted win- 
dowless apartment, and I asked for a brascw, or brcm'rico (a kind 
of chafnig-dish), After a little delay, one was brought, but the 
warmth it allbrded was barely suflicient to warm the tips of our 
fingers — however, fortunately, but little more is needed. I find 
the air here very delightful, and none of us have experienced, dur- 
ing our very short acjour here, the remotest inconvenience from 
the rarificatibn of the atmosphere in this elevated region ; but 
Lord Mark told us, the other day, he found occasionally an unac- 
customed oppression and shortness of breathing on running up 
stairs, or ascending a hill, since his arrival in Mexico. 

I wish the reader could have a glimpse of the damsel who es- 
pecially waits on us. She is named Victoriana. Her long jet- 
black hair flows and " wanders at its own sweet will," sometimes 
waving overshadowingly above our chocolate cups in a rather 
alarming manner ; but she usually contrives with a little twist 
and toss of her head to prevent its sweeping away the deep foam 
from that i-ichest of bevei-ages. 

And here I must quit Victoriana for a while, to rave a little 
about Mexican chocolate. It is nectar and ambrosia at once, and 
I think would spoil us for every thing every where : tea in China 
with the ethereal flower in it, which will not bear keeping or car- 



206 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

riage ; colfoo at Mocha would surely seem nothing, or positively 
nauseous, iu comparison. I boliovo the plant from which it is 
iiKido 15 tho natural growth of Mexico — and Olympus, perliaps. 
AA'lien the jclty-lockod Mctoriana brings it iu the morning lor 
(/rS(7i/in>o, with a most excellent sweet roll (an improvement ou 
an J^uglish bun), it" Messrs. Mars, Phaibus, and ^lercury, and 
Mesdames Juno and Pallas dropped iu unexpectedly through tho 
skyliglit, we should be able to provide them at once with their 
usual food, the " best entertainment" lor gods and goddesses. 

Victoriana has one ol'lhe merriest ot" countenances, and appears 
clad at all times iu the simplest oi' dresses, the throat, shoulders, 
antl arms bare, and the drapery altogether very cool and airy, the 
damsel's own abundant hair playing a large part in it. She is a 
great chatterbox, and talks rare gibberish and patois. She has 
iound out that we are exceedingly iijud of milk, and good-naturedly 
exerts herself to bring us a large supply of it — sometimes, I think, 
leaving the good peo]>le at the fa/)/c d fiofc with a considerably di- 
minished (pianlity. This milk is delicious ; it is brought iu a kind 
of huge caldron, holding about a couple of pails, or thereabouts. 

In my own mind I am perfectly convinced that Victoriana is 
Indian — (she is of a tolerably near approach to black : it may be 
an invisible green, which sombre coloring is lit up by blazing 
liright dark eyes and white teeth) — but she will not hear of such 
a thing lor a inomuet. No; oh no I "Soy Mexicana !" Yes, 
that of course ; but of the Indian race partly ? Oh, (piite out of 
the question. " Vaya una iilea !"' 

\" did a little portrait of her, which she seemed to admire 

prodigiously, and called one of the ga/opi/ias in to look at it. They 
both jiraiscd the performance highly, and at last Victoriana sud- 
denly snatched up the drawing and ran off with it. AVe ran after 
lier, begging her to restore it (as wc wanted to keep it) ; but she 
concealed it somewhere, and then returned, looking very demure, 
as if notliing had happened. " Como dice Vm. ? Me habla Vm. ? 
No eutiendo bicn lo que Vm. dice I" (which was just possible I) 
" N'aya vaya el retrato, el dibujo ?" " Si, el retrato, es muy bon- 
ito. ' After ineliectnal attempts to make her refund it, another 
was done, which she served in exactly the same way. Oli" she 
scampered Mith it, like a mouse carrying oil" a morsel of cheese to 
its hole to devour it at leisure. It was useless to draw her any 
more, as it was evident if one hundred and fifty Nvere sketched they 
would all be carried oil' and hidden in a similar manner. 

If other travelers should take the fancy to sketch her too, what 



GENERAL HERRERA. 207 

a gallery of portraits she will have, and all of herself ! She looked 
so enchanted, however, with her own hcdux ycux on paper, that I 
think she intends distrihuting those little representations of herself 
among her relations and friends, to show them how handsome she 
is, of which fact she might think they were not sufliciently aware, 
and, therefore, designs impressing it on their minds duly. 

There is a very splendid hedstead here, most beautifully inlaid 
with mother-of-pearl : the workmanship is exquisite. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

General Herrera, the President of INIexieo, and the American Minister — 
Chapultepec assaulted and taken by General Scott — Enormous Cj'presses 
in the Garden of Montezuma — Dona JNIariana, the Aztec Wife of Cortez 
— View from the Summit of Chapultepec Castle — Impressions caused by 
it — The Mountains Tacuha3-a and Toluca — Tanks and Baths of JMonte- 
zuma — The Opera-house at Mexico — The fat comic Actress and the 
brilliantly dressed One — Beauty of JMcxican Ladies — Madame Bishop — 
Payments in Kind for her Sinsrino; — Beautiful Appearance of the Stars in 
Mexico — View of dusty Victims alightinjr from the Diligence — The 
Brother of M. Arago the Astronomer — The Volcanoes, Popocatepetl and 
Iztacchihuatl — Patio of JNL Arago. 

This morning we had a visit from our excellent friend, Mr. 

L , who was presented to the President in due form yesterday, 

and delivered his address extremely well. 

He told us he had never been accustomed, in his own conntry, 
to so much iorm, and pomp, and state, and ceremony as is observed 
by the Mexican President, and that — owing to this circumstance 
— and being rather taken by surprise in these particulars, lie felt 
a little nervousness and trepidation which, however, soon passed 
over. By the account he gave us of it, the President of Mexico 

must assume much of monarchical state. Mr. said General 

Herrera was seated on a sort of throne raised on a platform at one 
end of the hall, under a splendid canopy, with many ministers and 
oflicers around him, the latter dressed in very costly and magnifi- 
cent uniforms. " Such splendid and bedizened-out uniforms, to be 
sure; and," he added, laughingly, "I thought it must all look just 
like Solomon on his throne, with his great courtiers round him."' 

Mr. had been oflered the choice of coming to this country or 

going to St. Petersburgh. I think the grandeur and splendor of 



208 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

the Czai-'s court would have struck him a little more than General 
Ilerrera's republican royalty. 

lie seemed much pleased with the President and his reception, 
and appears altogether to like Mexico, which, diarming as it is, 
is a compliment to it, for I believe he had never lelt home before: 
under these circumstances it is very common, ,is well as natural, 
to leel a little of the mat dii 2W/s. He is looking for a house, as 
he expects Mrs. will join him in May. 

We have had a delightful visit to Chapultepec : this fortified 
castle M'as taken by the American forces in the late war, under 
General Scott. It is the most haunted by old Aztec memories of 
all the traditionary and interesting localities which Mexico can 
claim. We had a charming drive. 

Chapultepec is an isolated volcanic hill, rising in the centre of 
the great plain, about three-quarters of a league from the capital. 
The Indian name for it may be interpreted, I believe, the " Hill 
of Grasshoppers." Its position is singular and remarkable ; it 
shoots up boldly in the heart of the valley, precipitously steep on 
all sides ; the zig-zagging road has still the adobe embankments 
{adobes are sun-dried bricks), and the little corner batteries which 
the Mexicans threw up in anticipation of the American attack, 
and tliere are almost innumerable traces of General Scott's cannon 
balls, from Tacubaya, and from the elevated ground to the rear of 
Molino del Rey ; these are to be seen in all directions. The poor 
Mexicans had a too plentilul peppering for their J'rijolcs on that 
occasion. 

But before I say more of the fortress of Chapultepec let me do 
homage to the great cypresses in what is still called the Garden 
of JMontezuma. We drew up to within a short distance of them 

in the carriage, and INIr. D then proposed that we should 

alight and walk toward them, which M'e ditl through a tangled 
wildei-ness of yellow flowers. They are the most glorious trees I 
ever beheld. The largest of them all was said, by Humboldt, to 
be forty-one feet in circumference ; but I am told it is actually 
forty-five feet. It certainly looks yet more than this. The vast 
trunk seemed to me like a noble tower shooting toward the sky, 
and lost in its own far-spreading and mighty cloud of deep green 
foliage, where half an army might have hid — d hi "King Charles 
in his oak." Solt streamers of thick gray moss depend I'rom every 
bough, which gives thcL-e trees a doubly venerable and patriarchal 
appearance. 

The cypress which i.< second in size to the huge ouo I have 



ENORMOUS CYPRESSES. 209 

mentioned, is little inferior in any respect ; and indeed by some it 
is thought more beautiful and graceful. There are several others 
of dimensions almost similar. Would not Michael Angelo, that 
poet-sculptor, have thundered at them, as he did at his oM'n Moses, 
though with a different leeling, " speak !" Think what they 
could tell, had they tongues (and brains and memories into the 
bargain, by the way). Venerable were they when Montezuma 
was a puling infant, and a mischievous hobblc-de-hoy I and they 
looked on in unaltered unshaken majesty, while the gallant Scott 
thundered, with his conquering artillery, against the strongholds 
of the descendants of Montezuma's Spanish conquerors ; while the 
echoes of the M'orld-overspreading Anglo-Saxon tongue thrilled 
through the branches of those thousand year-old monarchs of the 
forest, and may have rejoiced the shades of the avenged Aztecs. 

The opening onset of the gallant and ever-victorious Americans, 
when they stormed Chapultepcc, was made under cover of these 
mammoth trees. Perchance these stately survivors of empires 
creeds, triumphs, Avars, and a hundred changes, may still stand in 
their solemn pride and lordly majesty, when a hundred other 
changes may have transformed all around but themselves and 
their mighty comrades, the mountains. 

It is whispered by the voice of superstition, that these scenes 
are haunted by Malinche — not the mountain but the maiden, 
though a walking mountain might stalk under those trees — in 
short, by the spectre of the celebrated Dona Mariana, the beaute- 
ous Aztec love of the great Cortez. If such be the case, she is a 
ghost of taste, it must be owned ; and one can not wonder she 
snatched away the heart of the gallant Cortez — not in the way 
her countrymen, the red-jacketed cannibal priests were wont to 
accomplish such operations. She became, as it were, a sort of 
counter-conqueror, and ruled rather despotically over the great 
captain of the age. 

The true name of these cypresses is Ahuahuete {Sabino ahna- 
Imete, or Cuprcssiis dhticka). The chief of these is called 
Montezuma's cypress. At the village of Atlixco, there is said to 
be a cypress (they are not like what we in England call by that 
name) seventy-six feet in circumference, and which is supposed to 
be one of the oldest of vegetable monuments on the face of the 
globe, if not indeed the mo$L ancient. 

But this is not all. At a village called St. Maria del Tule, 
ten miles to the east of the capital, there is an immense trunk of 
the same species of cypress, measuring one hundred and eighteen 



210 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

feet in circumference, though by all accounts it would appear to be 
three stems, closely, almost imperceptibly, joined together. It 
must be like the great " Boabab" of Asia; but the suspicion of 
this latter one being a treble tree, renders it less interesting. I 
confess, in one of the mighty Ahuahuetes that I saw, I detected 
something that looked as if a similar process had taken place. 
There is certainly a suspicious line along the trunk ; but I am 
assured I am wrong, and by those likely to know better than I do. 

After admiring this giant grove for some time, we crept, feeling 
very microscopical and mite-like, back to the carriage, which had 
assumed considerably the appearance of a nut-shell drawn by the 
"industrious fleas," formerly in vogue in London, by comparison 
with these colossal suzerains of the vegetable world. We in- 
tended to drive up the precipitously steep (but zig-zagged) ascent 
on which stands giibattled the castle, but the fates willed it other- 
"wise, and we had not gone manj^ yards before the harness broke, 
and our gallant grays (fine-looking American horses) were relieved 
from the trovible of dragging us up. The Mexican cochero in- 
dulged in some vituperations against the American harness; the 
horses look the whole aflair very philosophically ; and we, anxious 
to see the beauteous view which we knew the elevated summit 

of Chapultepec must present, left Mr. to superintend the 

criados, and the reparation of the damage, and climbed up the hill. 

It was rather toilsome work, but we felt a great reward was 
aM'aiting us ; we pushed on vigorously, and, at length, found our- 
selves on the height, and on a broad graveled terrace fronting the 
entrance. Trumpets were sounding cheerily, but we staid not 
to ascertain why or where, intent upon taking, not the castle, but 
the best possible position for seeing the liermosa vista. The 
commandant — as we afterward ascertained he was — came for- 
ward, and very courteously asked if we would like to see the view 
from the azotca of the castle, and observed we must be much 
fatigued by climbing the precipitous ascent. I informed him of 
the accident that had occurred, and that we had come with the 
Ministro I//g/cs, who was detained at the bottom of the hill by 
the misfortune aforesaid. He immediately said he knew the 
ministro, and scarcely had he pronounced the words, before Mr. 

D appeared on the esplanade, having scrambled up by a 

short cut, I believe, and a still more steep and far more rugged 
path than the one we followed. Indeed, it looked pretty nearly 
perpendicular. Mutual civilities were exchanged, and we forth- 
with hurried to the fiat roof of the castle. 



SCENERY FROM CHAPULTEPEC. 211 

What a Paradise world we saw I the different and greatly di- 
versified scenes were all mingled and mixed in beauty without 
end. How surpassingly grand was the apparently illimitable and 
gigantically-castellated amphitheatre of heights I The sun shone 
gloi'iously, and the stupendous mountains, especially the magnifi- 
cent Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, seemed joining earth and 
heaven, yet with their mighty foreheads turning pale at their own 
audacity, blanched as they are by interfulgent snows. 

To particularize the separate glories of this unparalleled pano- 
rama to one's self at first seemed impossible ; all appeared to be 
blended together in one magical unity. After long, long gazing, 
till that ocean of beauty seemed to spread over the whole mind 
and spirit, and leave every thought bathed and streaming with its 
splendors, one began to know that this vision of magnificence was 
composed of various parts — some earthly and material parts too : 
but still it was — oh, how glorious I and from that height all below 
was so still, so calm ; shining, too, in such a blaze of dazzling light, 
that the earth around you seemed no more the common earth. 

Some mighty change seemed to have taken place — you gazed 
on dreamily, and the scene seemed to grow more and more awful 
in its beauty — Nature's apotheosis, as it were ; a world divided 
from the sinning, struggling Avorld without. The grand mount- 
ains seemed not so much like vast masses of earth towering up 
and heaving their giant forms toward the cerulean firmament, as 
stooping, downward-leaning heavens themselves — immeasurably 
vast stupendous stalactites, depending grandly from the unimagin- 
able heights of an overarching Celestial Universe above ; in short, 
all kinds of wild fancies entered one's mind — for really it was as 
if the loveliness and majesty of a thousand worlds were concen- 
trated here. 

But it is not, after all, so much the scene itself, as the great 
and boundless glory the imagination ever lends it ; for the soul 
once awakened, and stirred and thrilled by the sight of that mag- 
nificent scenery, makes it ten thousand fold more glorious. She 
heaps far other mountains of more transcending height upon those 
visible ones ; and it is she who clothes them with a heavenly 
awfulness, and it is she who kindles the firmament into most un- 
utterable splendor above, as if it were all made of the moving 
brightness of angels' blazing passing shadows ; and it is she who 
brings the stars in their mid-majesty as suns, as worlds gorgeously 
shimmering down upon that paradisiacal prospect ; for she unites 
it with all that the immense and glorious universe, without a 



212 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

shadow of a limit, hath of the majestic, and of the lovely, and of 
the terrible. 

Perhaps it might he thought that the view of the city of Mex- 
ico would detract a little from the visionary appearance of this 
world-wide prospect ; but, indeed, it does not. Its glittering tow- 
ers, its many churches and convents and domes, looked almost 
spiritually beautiful at that distance, with that exquisite sunlight 
beaming upon them, and making them sparkle like silver and 
crystal, as beautiful as if they all (like Avhat is reported of Puebla's 
cathedral) were built by angelic architects, and of supernatural 
materials. 

The valley itself looks matchlessly lovely from Chapultepec ; 
and if there are some symptoms here and there of a lack of care 
and cultivation, the few uninhabited hacie^idas, partly dilapidated, 
with patches of earth around them, left to the wildness of Nature, 
were the moi-e picturesque, and lent more variety to the scene. 
There were vast tracts covered by the silvery-gleaming planta- 
tions of magueys to be seen, great fields where herds of cattle 
were pasturing ; exquisite gardens, rainbows of the earth, shadow- 
ing paseos near the city, and groves of many-foliaged trees. 

Then how endless appeared all the beauteous shapes of the 
nearer rocks and hills ; and how the fertile variegated valley of 
enchantment flows far in among the mighty mountains in some 
parts, which seem to fall back belbre it, and so the ever-waving 
lines are beyond imagination varied and lovely. 

In one part the rocks and heights are far olfin the horizon, and 
in another they are almost running into the valley, like rugged 
promontories and capes frowning and peering down on its tranquil 
scenes. 

But the sparklins: canals must not be forgotten ; nor the stately 
aqueducts, with their open toj)S and noble lines of a thousand arch- 
es ; nor the sapphire-tinted lakes ; nor the romantic villages, with 
their clustering masses of trees ; nor the lordly avenues of bright- 
leaved poplars and shady elms leading to the city ; nor the Avon- 
derful skies above, that looked clear, brilliant, fervid, and glowing, 
as if they were all of blue flame, burning more and more brightly 
every moment. Only fifteen miles beyond Tacubaya toAver the 
mountains of Toluca, and Guadaloupes apparently insulated hills 
are not much further on the opposite side ; but, in the other di- 
rections, the valley spreads its sea-like surface between fifty and 
sixty miles before it reaches the everlastingly-planted feet of the 
mountains. 



CASTLE OF CHAPULTEPEC. 213 

Tacubaya lies near Chapiiltepec, with her gardens of flowers, 
and her pomp of sumptuous palaces. The shrine of " Our Lady 
of Guadaloupe" stands on the brink of a mountain promontory, 
which sallies out toward the lovely Lake of Tezcuco. To the 
north is Tacuba. The tops, I might well say the great domes of 
foliage of the gigantic cypresses were at our feet to the left. 
Among the hamlets, scattered about to the southward, are those 
of San Augustin, San Angel, and various others. 

AVe then went and looked down the steep rocks over which it 
is said the unfortunate Mexicans, after having given up all further 
thoughts of defense, flung themselves in despair, and fell crushed 
and mangled at the base. While we were there, a little co?7i- 
mandantino ran out of the castle, in the shape of the Colonel's 
pretty boy, a charming little fellow, with a sword by his side, the 
most soldier-like strut, and the blackest and merriest of eyes. 

After thanking the obliging commandant for his civility, we 
descended, and went to see the tanks and baths of Montezuma. 
One could not but look back, again and again, on the colossal 
Ahuahuetes, that had overshadowed, perhaps, in the olden time 
the imperial ruler of the Mexicans — and what a presence chamber 
would that glorious grove have been — what a hall of audience ! 
If powerful kings had come to visit the Aztec monarch, could ho 
have received them in a nobler state chamber % What a canopy 
more than regal, over his head, fretted with the diamond and 

golden dews of evening ! Mr. L might have thought of 

Solomon's glories, indeed, under such circumstances, and still more 
of those wonders and triumphs of Nature — of her prodigal riches 
of vegetation, that excel him " in all his glory." 

The castle of Chapultepec was built by the viceroy Galvez, the 
last representative of the Spanish monarchy in this country. The 
vice-queen was a famed beauty, and was exceedingly popular in 
Mexico ; and he was wealthy and magnificent. It was supposed 
to have cost the Spanish government three hundred thousand dol- 
lars. Chapultepec was said to have occasioned great jealousy and 
suspicion to the Mexicans. Though thus originally built as a 
mere summer palace, its commanding and excellent position, forti- 
fied and strengthened with walls and parapets toward Mexico, 
with moats and underground vaults to the north, which were suf- 
ficiently large to contain an immense supply of provisions, rendered 
such a distrust and suspicion not unnatural. It was something 
like the deception practiced concerning the fortifications of Paris ; 
only it was pretended there, that they were built to guard against 



214 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

the possible attacks of a foreign foe, and here, that there was no 
fortification contemplated at all, only a summer mansion with a 
beautiful view for the innocent delights of the Villcgiatura. 

One thousand and fifty bombs i'ell on this devoted fortress, during 
the late hostilities, before the assault. The head-quarters of Gen- 
eral Scott were in the palace of the Bishop of Tacubaya, which 
place is clearly visible from Chapultepec, and said to be actually 
within the reach of its guns. Though Chapultepec was well de- 
fended and manned by artillery and infantry, it is not considered 
that it can use cannon to advantage when the attacking forces 
have approached the base of the rock. 

We paid a visit to the great square tank, from whence, we are 
told, the grand aqueduct is supplied. Its water is of the clearest 
sparkling crystal, and of the most exquisite transparency. The 
" Koh-i-noor," the " Mountain of Light," can hardly be brighter. 
There is a cave too of no great dimensions. 

One more look at that glorious grove, at those hoary and won- 
drous trees, and, above all, at the stupendous giant of them all, 
standing there in its mighty greatness, so solemn, so placid, so 
darkly and silently sublime, with its own vast shadow making an 
eclipse, and an evening twilight, and shedding a gathered gloom 
and a dense duskiness around — in itself a wood — and then back to 
lovely Mexico. 

We rolled through the gates, and went on at a fair pace, till 
our harness gave Avay again, and caused a little delay. At last 
we gained the jjasco in safety, where our rope-repaired tackle could 
not have shone very brilliantly ; but we little minded that, and 
rattled steadily on to the Hotel de Diligencias, vi'hen, after bid- 
ding good-even to Mr. , we went to dinner, with our thoughts 

full of giant cypresses, mountains, Montezumas, Malinches, and 
fortresses. 

I must now say a word or two about the Mexican Opera-house 
which we went to, though the opera company is not here now ; 
but plays are performed there. It is a very handsome theatre in- 
deed, and the box of the Mhihtro Ingles is capitally situated. We 
had a Spanish comedy. A seiiora acted, and very Avell too, who 
had formerly, I believe, been a celebrated beauty ; but she was too 
fat to permit the hcaiiz rentes to vouch much for her previous per- 
fection. Without being absolutely like the lady whom a friend of 
mine compared to a "leather bed in spectacles" (that lady wore 
glasses), she bore a faint resemblance to a very liberally stufled 
eider-down quilt. She, however, was full of life and merriment, 



MEXICAN OPERA-HOUSE. 215 

and the very dimples on her broad elbows seemed to laugh, ha I 
ha ! as she shook with the severe exercise, which the employment 
of the risible faculties was lor her, when occasionally during some 
droll passage ol' the performance, she indulged in it. 

Another senora on the stage was very brilliantly dressed, as a 
Madrileiia (a native of Madrid). Whether the costume was cor- 
rect I can not say, not having been in that part of Spain. It was 
one of the costumes, I imagine, of the middle classes. The dress 
was of white satin, Avith very bright full scarlet llouncings, and a 
large black lace mantilla, most gracefully and coquettishly dispo.sed, 
with a single flower, I think, on one side of the head, i'asteued on 
the sj^lendid ebon braids of hair. The wearer of tiic dress looked 
extremely pretty in it, and the costume itself had altogether a very 
pretty and graceful effect, though the description does not sound 
promising. 

My attention being a little taken up by looking at the house, 
and having the diflerent occupants of the boxes pointed out to me, 
I could not very satisfactorily follow the speakers on the stage ; 
but even Avhen I did not perfectly catch the point of the remarks 
and repartees, these merry dimples aforesaid, on the iat shaking 
elbows and shoulders — those dimples laughing so heartily (till they, 
and all that was visible round them, turned to a scarlet, almost as 
bright as the Madrilena's flounces) — those dimples almost in hys- 
terics, made one laugh just as much as if one had thoroughly 
understood the joke. 

Diamonds were in profusion ; some of the ladies were very beau- 
tiful, and seemed extremely well dressed ; they had the usual dark 
flashing eyes of Mexico, and the graceful Spanish manner of play- 
ing with their fans. I saw no smoking among the ladies — there 
may have been a little, but I am inclined to think not. 

Madame Bishop has lately been singing here, and was exceed- 
ingly admired and popular in Mexico. She went into the prov- 
inces also, and I hear, at some of the theatres there, her sweet 
sounds were sometimes paid in fighting-cocks and cigars ; to such 
an extent, indeed, that she was obliged to advertise in the papers 
that she could receive no more payments in " crowing Chanticleers" 
or prime " Havannas," and that none would be taken at the 
doors. 

There was a little divertlsscmoit, an Andalusian dance, &c. 
On coming out of the theatre, I was almost rooted to the spot by 
the marvelous beauty of the stars. I never saw them so glorious 
before any where — so large, so lustrous. The Persian idolater 



216 TRAVELS JN AMERICA. 

might have found a thousand suns there to worship ; they Hteraily 
gleamed with the different colors of the rainbow. One had a 
crimson; another an emerald tinge ; a third shone on the deep, 
blue, glorious sky, like cerulean fire on cerulean air. They spark- 
led, and quivered, and blazed, and lightened in their splendor, till 
the heavens seemed all stirring, and breathing, and living. When 
we remarked this diversity of colors to Lord Mark afterward, he 
laughingly exclaimed, " So even Mexican stars wear the national 
sarape," which idea amazingly amused V . 

We have a broad balcony running all round the interior of this 
hotel, on the floor on which we are. On the lower story are 
almacens (warehouses). The dining saloon on this floor runs out 
far across the court-yard like a glass promontory, for it is more like 
a conservatory than a comedor (dining-room), and seems to try and 
make up by its vast profusion of windows for the deficiencies of 
these agreeable additions to a house, elsewhere in the hotel. When 
we were, by chance, occasionally a little tired of the sky prospect 
alibrded by our daraboya (skylight) in this cloudless climate, one 
sheet of blue, with hardly the least little vagrant cloud to diversity 
the view, we wandered forth on to the balcony (sooth to say, per- 
petual sight-seeing has left us but little time in which to grow 
tired of our sky-peep), as this balcony commanded a splendid view 
of dusty diligences, and various vehicles of that kind. We were 
often amused at the comical sights presented when the door was 
opened, and the cramped wretched passengers rolled out on the 
pavement. 

Frightful is the deeply-rooted wickedness of the human heart. 
W^e rather rejoiced than otherwise at the spectacle of sufferings 
we had ourselves undergone, and, as if with mocking exultation, 
watched the unfortunate occupants of the caches by slow degrees 
exhibiting signs of life. At first, perhaps, when the doors of the 
dungeon were opened, apparently a very large brown paper parcel 
would tumble down the steps, and stand miraculously upright in 
the court-yard. Then you would see it, as it were, suddenly gal- 
vanized, and displaying every appearance of life. Indeed at length 
this rather uncommon brown paper parcel would be seized as with 
an ague fit — a vehement shaking from head to foot — when, lo I a 
huge quantity of dust, almost amounting to land enough for a little 
Italian principality, would fly ofl, and a reboso, with a gown, would 
become visible ; and, finally, a seiiora appear, looking wild and 
haggard from fatigue. What is that, too, which descends the 
steps like a white formless mist — like the emoke which the eastern 



THE VOLCANOES. 217 



fisherman saw come slowly out of the vase in the Arabian tale ! 
Gaze steadily, and after a while you will see that nebula resolved 
into two starry eyes (and perhaps a diamond-luminary or two 
sparkling on the lingers) as a once light and graceful sciiorita, 
lamed and bruised by the jolting she has suflered, limps away, 
settling her rehoso, and coaxing her hair into a little order. Some- 
times one would see the newly-arrived shampooing themselves 
vigorously, and extending- their arms very tenderly and carefully, 
not to clasp them around the necks of cherished objects waiting to 
welcome them, but that the poor wretched objects themselves may 
ascertain whether or no these members are sound and unbroken. 
Hark ! there thunders in the Puebla Diligencia I Behold that 
vast violonccllo-case, all travel-stained and dusty, which can with 
difRculty be pushed through the coach-door. Hush I a groan I the 
last of the bass-strings must be broken I What a mighty instru- 
ment ; what a size I the very Lablache of double basses I But, 
stay ! that 2^con has run against it, a cloud of dust arises, and — 
strange metamorphosis — lo I a jolly^^ar^-g, immovable from cramp 
and weariness ! He stands in every body's way ; the great Amer- 
ican horses shove by him on this side, the bustling codiero on that. 
" Fuera I padre" — at last he totters off. 

We have been to see the two magnificent volcanoes this mor- 
ning, accompanied by Mr. F irom the azotea of the Casa da 

Bazar. This hotel is kept by a brother of the far-lamed M. Arago, 
the distinguished French astronomer and statesman. I mentioned 
to him that a friend of mine was acquainted with his celebrated 
brother. "Ah, madame, vous voulez dire mon frere I'astronome ]" 
I said yes, and he told me it was very long indeed since he had 
seen that famous brother of his, and that he himself had been so 
long settled in Mexico, it seemed easier to him to speak Spanish 
than French. He is said to be very like the astronomer in appear- 
ance. He was particularly courteous and obliging, and accompanied 
us up to the azotea, which was a splendid one of great extent. 

Language can not depict the majesty and beauty of Popocatepetl 
and Iztaccihuatl that morning. The atmosphere was remarkably 
and peculiarly clear, even for Mexico, which was the reason of our 

little expedition. I had received a hasty note from Mr. , early 

in the morning, stating this fact, and recommending that we should 
lose no time in repairing to the azotea, to see the volcanoes in their 
fullest glory. We found, to our dismay, that this house yva.?, azotea- 

less, but were advised by Mr. P to go to M. Arago's hotel 

without delay ; he offering to escort us there, being acquainted 

K 



213 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

"with M. Arago. We lost no time, and I am indeed glad to have 
had so favorable an opportunity of seeing, in its greatest splendor, 
one ol' the most sublime scenes in ereation. Tliougli the sua was 
terribly hot there, we could not ibr some time tear ourselves away 
from the contemplation oi" all that august magnificence of Nature. 
It must be remembered that ropocatepetl far out-towers Mont 
Blanc. 

Before we went down stairs, INI. Arago asked me lo look down 
upon his palio, which is really beautii'ul, with superb fountains 
and corridors, the loveliest and most graceful, and a vast profusion 
of large gayly-colored Chinese lamps, or lanterns, which are lighted 
every evening, and must produce the most magical ellect, reflected 
by the sparkling waters of the clear fountains. Trees, covered 
with flowers in all seasons, overshadow costly tables of marble, 
and guard from the hot sun, in the day-time, the visitors to the 
Cafe do Bazaar adjoining the hotel. The hotel is crammed with 
guests. 

In returning, we were pestered with beggars, especially Liliputian 
lepcros, mounted like monkeys on each other's shoulders, and keep- 
hig up the most inharmonious din. The hair of one was like a 
huge gooseberry-bush, and she would most pertinaciously follow us, 
though there was hardly room for us and her shock of hair on the 
broad pavement : it stuck out at the sides like two great black 
wings, so that I was constantly coming in contact with that un- 
pleasant hair. A little brother or sister was perched on the girl's 
shoulders, and helped to do the whining work. I think this 
spread-out forest of tangled locks was partly designed as a delensive 
wall to the head that seemed lost in it ; for you see tormented 
jiedcstrians fre(]ucntly dealing rather desperate blows at the crowns 
of these indefatigable persecutors — altogether Ibrgetful of the more 
gentle " IVrdone V." They certainly plague one out of j)atience. 
I have not seen any of tlie deformed Icpcrof. moiurted on the 
shoulders of porters, ox peons, that Mr. lluxton describes — perhaps 
that porternianship is out of fashion. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

Intention to cross the Tsthiiius of I'aimma — Tlic Cavniviil at INloxiro — Map^- 
iiiticence ol' llio Calliodial (luiinij lluvt Festival — Thinnifs ol' |)ii'tiircs(|uo 
Pooplo ill till' Slieels — The JMusks — A i;rotesqiio Eiiiicstiiaii — Carnival 
Quiz on Eiij^iisli and Fit'iieli lliirscwunien — The iMexieaii lvidiii<;-(hes.s — 
Alcxiean Eyes — llii;h-|)aeing ol' Mexiean Horses — iVlr. I'arrutt iiislru- 
uicntal in socuriny Caliiuriua to the Americans. 

I FIND \vc can not, without great inconvenience and undcrgoinj^ 
many liardsliips, visit tlie sliores of the Paoilic lioiu hence. As i 
am most Tacilically inclined, I shall lollow the advice ol' several 
ol" my acquaintances here and take a trip across the Isthnuis ot" 
Panama, which is said to be much easier. This is a good time 
tor going there, as the rainy season lias not yet commenced. 

I shall, however, proceed there as soon as possible, as beli)re very 
long the beginning of the unfavorable season may be anticipated, 
and this will considerably, and to my great regret, curtail my visit 
to matchless Mexico ; for if wc do not go from Vera Cruz by the 
next British steamer, we should be detained here so long that the 
bad weather would probably be set in by the time we got to Chagres, 
and, as there is no steamer direct to Chagres, we have to go I'ound 
by the Havana, Irom whence I shall go probably in one of the 
American steamers to the Isthmus. 

Here the carnival is now going on, and we have been escorted 
by Mr. P , to see the cathedral in all its })omp : it Avas aston- 
ishingly magnificent. The quantity of gold and silver and gorgeous 
jewels, and ornaments of dilRu'ent kinds was jtrodigions, and the 
brilliancy of the whole scene was almost too dazzling. All around 
the great altar it seemed to have snowed miraculous brightness 
and s])arkling splendors, li)r every thing was draped with spotless 
white satin, and glittering with spangles and embroidery, and with 
solid silver. 

Some very fine music was pealing through the vast church, 
with a noble and impressive eJR'ct. There were many jiriests 
oiiiciating, who seemed scarcely able to move under the weight of 
their sumptuous dresses; eroAvds of people in holiday dresses were 
in the cathedral, and the odor of incense was delicious. 

The great square was very gay. There were throngs of women 
in various dresses ; some with china shawls of half a hundred 
colors ; some in country coetumes, among M'hom shone conspicuous 



220 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

the brilliantly-attired Poblanas (■u'omeii from Puebla), sombreroed 
caballcros, blanketed Indians, priests, children, friars, soldados — it 
was quite overflowing. 

The le2yeros mustered as strong as usual, but were far too much 
taken up Avith gazing at my chatelaine to importune me seriously ; 
they came to beg, but they remained to stare ; so the chatelaine 
made a capital diversion. Perhaps they thought it was a choice 
assortment of weapons to ward them off with. 

I must now speak of our drive in the paieo to see the masks. 
There M'ere a goodly number of soldiers there to preserve order and 
prevent any carriage from breaking the line, and creating thereby 
a confusion, which, no doubt was necessary, as the crowds of car- 
riages were extraordinary ; they appeared innumerable, and so did 
the horsemen. It was not dull, for the masks and costumes were 
capital, and the variety was almost bewildering ; but it was the 
very quielest carnival I ever saw. 

One or two groups of extraordinarily-dressed individuals were 
much followed and shouted after, but, in general, a great silence 
prevailed, and the pedestrians who thronged the promenades on 
each side of the drive, merely just by a bright smile, which dis- 
played commonly a brilliant set of teeth flashing like the driven 
snow in the sun, expressed their pleasure and mirth. One gro- 
tesque mask, who seemed a great favorite, was a capitally repre- 
sented, enormous black bear on horseback (no such wonderful 
phenomenon after all), holding the reins in the most delicate and 
dandy-like style, in its huge paws; and caracolling about to the 
great edification of all, the little boys especially, inthe place. 

There were some masked ladies riding, with immensely long 
habits trailing along (they were rnen dressed up), floating vails, 
and jaunty riding hats and whips; these were a quiz upon En- 
glish and French equestrianesses. There were some pretended 
ladies also driving iJiemselves in a light sort of pony carriage, 
a r Anglaise, with bonnets and doll's parasols — these were excel- 
lent. There were, of course, a vast number of Turks, Moors, 
knights, cavaliers, &o. 

Of all the dresses, the most beautiful was the Mexican full dress 
(the riding costume) itself The sombreros most profusely orna- 
mented with the brightest of silver ; the splendidly-embroidered 
jackets, with hanging buttons of silver; the trowsers, also embroi- 
dered and thickly adorned Avith similar silver buttons (these are 
slit up the leg and display an under pair, of the whitest linen be- 
neath) ; and the spurs delicately and richly ornamented, and 



MEXICAN HORSES. 221 



about the usual unusual size, were superb. Occasionally tho 
gold-embroidered manga would be gracefully worn, and they 
sometimes display a kind of winged shoe. The horses seemed to 
me almost without exception beautiful ; their trappings were very 
sumptuous and picturesque. 

Among the lookers-on, we saw very many fine faces, with the 
almost perpetual houri-like eye — large, dark, and lustrous — till you 
got rather tired of it, and might even think the pink variety (such 
as the ferret's, or the albino's) pleasing, by way of a change. The 
blue, of course,. is quite a relief. Not that I mean to disparage 
Mexican eyes, they are magnificent ; but at least one thinks a lit- 
tle variety would do no harm. Human nature is so fond of nov- 
elty in all countries, save perhaps France (which is so constant to 
ceaseless change it is quite remarkable how that surprising and 
consistent people retain their tastes, and seem never tired of that 
old game of theirs — pulling down and setting up constitutions). I 
must say, however, on the promenade we saw some lily-white 
giicras (blondes, fair women), most likely Germans, Americans, or 
English, with very blue eyes, flaxen hair, and light skins. 

The quantities of splendidly-colored China crape shawls upon 
the shoulders of the women who lined the sides of the road were 
astonishing. One would think they must have bought up half the 
manufactories of China. 

Tired of the scene, at length we wished to return toward home, 
but found we must go back the whole length of the drive first ; 
for the soldiers would not hear of letting any body break the ranks. 
It was rather tiresome, and I was only consoled by watching the 
beautiful horses, mostly high-stepping B razeadors, that went 
prancing along, looking as conceited as any Christians, and twice 
as handsome. I have been positively assured that they teach 
them to raise up their fore-legs immensely high (which they al- 
most all do) by putting on them magnifying spectacles when they 
are young, by which means the stones on the road are made to 
appear like large blocks in the way, and they lift up their legs in 
order to step over them, and so acquire the habit. I dare say the 
reader will laugh incredulously, but I tell him just what was told 
me as a fact, and I am further informed this is constantly prac- 
ticed in South America. 

We got home at last ; but driving through the streets of Mex- 
ico just now is a trial to the skill of most coachmen ; for there is 
a new order come out, that no one must drive within a certain 
number of inches of the pavement. Tho Mexicans themselves 



222 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

laugh at this curious regulation. Mr. said he was stopped 

the other day on this account, and mightily olFended the official 
by saying he had forgotten to bring a yard measure with him, but 
would hang it to his carriage-wheel in future. The man was 
furious, and said his order must not be turned into ridicule. The 
mu'/.zle of a pistol then peeped out in answer, and ended the con- 
troversy. 

Victoriaua came to have another portrait done of her, for her 
cgoti.stical galkny, and brought another muchadui belonging to 
the house, to partiei[)ate also in the benents of a paper-and-pencil 
ininiorlalization. But the amateur artist Avho had sketched the 
two previous stolen portraits, was not nuich in the humor to do a 
third, and still less to delineate the form and features of the dam- 
sel wlio accoinpauiod gentle Victoriana. For the former had cer- 
tainly less charms to boast of than her patroness had ; and when 
I stfite that that twice-pictured damsel herself bore a rather strik- 
ing resemblance to an individual commonly known as the Knave 
of Clubs (and to that gentleman, too, only when afflicted with the 
mum})s — his personal charms being by no means overpowering at 
any time), it will not excite so much surprise. It perhaps may 
be conceived that Sir Peter Lely might have felt a little hesita- 
tion with respect to admitting this new candidate for pictorial 
honors into his gallery of beauties (had she lived in his day), and 
it is a melancholy fact that the amateur artist before alhided to, 
looked particularly blank at the not very charming prospect before 
her. 

Victoriana, notwithstanding her likeness to the knave of clubs, 
en petite uinte, had at least a very pleasing and gay good-humor- 
ed countenance, but her poor friend was the most forlorn and dole- 
ful looking damsel you ever beheld (so it was mumjis and dimips); 
and with lier on one side and Victorina on the other, V look- 
ed like Garrick between Tragedy and Comedy, and ought to have 
done the whole group, thus including herself, in these characters. 

To please them, at last she did two little rough sketches, suffi- 
ciently llattering to both these mulligatawny-complexioned nymphs. 
Then the merry one looked contemplative and absorbed in dream- 
ing and delighted thought, as she gazed on her own picture : and 
the dismal one turned merry. In short. Tragedy looked very 
comic, and Comedy rather tragic and serious ; perhaps the latter 
was secretly plotting how to run ofi" with both sketches for her 
private collection in some corner of the scullery devoted to high 
art. 



MR. PARROTT. 223 



"VVe had a farewell visit from our friend Mr. Parrolt, who is to 
start on his return to California almost immediately. I have 
heard, not from himsflf, but from others, that it was owing 1o hia 
energy and promptitude that California was sceurcd to the Amer- 
icans, lie sent an express to the Ameriean commander-in-chief 
of the squadron in the Pacific announcing the war, when there 
was an idea that Great Britain would attempt to take California 
under its protection — an idea arising i'rom the circumstance of 
there being a large British force concentrated near, and indeed at 
anchor of!" the port of Mazatlan at the time. Notwithstanding 
there was considerable difliculty in forwarding this express, Mr. 
I'arrott contrived, with great adroitness, to send it through salely 
in five days, the usual time being ten days. This delivered the 
first news of the war to the United States forces in the Pacific. 

Very shortly afterward California was occuj)ied, -u'lthout any 
opposition or resistance from us, by Commodore Sloat, and the 
force under his command. He had hardly planted the American 
flag in the territory, when our eighty-gun shi]), the " Colliiigwood," 
(admiral Sir G. Seymour) ran into the harbor of Monterey ; but 
if any designs were entertained of frustrating the plan of the 
Americans, the time was already past, when any obstacle could 
successfully be thrown in their way, and the " Collingwood" 
almost immediately (when the state of affairs was ascertained) 
took her departure. 

Of course 1 can not answer for the entire correctness of this ac- 
count, but T believe it is substantially true. Mr. Parrott, during 
part of the Mexican war, acted as volunteer, lie told me he had 
never enjoyed better health than when undergoing all kinds of 
hardships and privations, and subsisting entirely on rations of fat 
pork ; but then the charming Mexican climate, must be taken 
into account. 



CHAPTEPv XXXII. 

Departure for Vera Cruz — Threatened Aecideiit to the Diligence — Last 
Look at Mexico, and its early Stirrers — The Little Penon — A magnificent 
View — Passengers bj- the Diligence — Splendid Sombreros — The Escort 
of Lancers — Mexican Robbers — Of what Class composed — Some of their 
Exploits — Escorts alleged to be sometimes Robbers — Arrival at Rio Frio 

—Mr. and Mrs. G The Plain of Puebla— Malinche— The Pyramid 

of Choliila — Its early History — Its Height and Appearance — Chamber dis- 
covered in the Pyramid — What it contained — Arrival at Puebla. 

We were both quite unhappy to leave beautiful anil most en- 
chanting- Mexico. Even our parting vi'ith good-natured, kind Vie- 
toriana, was quite affecting! After telling us how much she 
sientd'd our departure, she flung her arms and hair about us naost 
aflectionately — those mahogany arms, and that ebon hair almost 
strangled us. 

We left Mexico at about half-past four o'clock in the morning. 
I found, during the time we were there, that one attains a great 
proficiency in the art of sleeping, iii that clear, elastic air, and on 
that morning v>'c dressed and prepared for our journey, between 
dreaming and v.-aking. While I saw the trunks and packages, 
busily vanishing one after the other, I remained in such a state 
of " masterly inactivity," that I scarcely cared, and could hardly 
rouse myself, even M'hen those dreadful sounds, " the diligence is 
ready," broke upon my ears. However, awake or asleep we 
must go, and we hastily passed along the deserted corridors, a 
dreary procession, in a state of semi-consciousness, mechanically 
following our cherished carpet-bags, and well-beloved boxes. 

Having seen their " old familiar faces" looking down upon us 
from the mountain heights, of the diligence stimmit, we clamber- 
ed into that imposing vehicle. The companion coach was ready 
hard by, and oil" we started, but soon stopped again, with a jerk 
that almost, or quite severed soul and body, but, fortunately the 
second jerk, on starting once more, brought them together again. 

In the mean time, we felt naturally a little bewildered and 
confused. What had happened ? Surely the ladrone& had not 
lassoed the cochcro on the box of the diligence, in the very streets 
of Mexico. Or had that careless functionary, driven the wheels 
within the quarter of an inch prescribed by law] And were we 
all about to be summoned before some dread tribunal, to answer 



LAST LOOK AT 3IEXIC0. 225 

for our hair's breadth scrape (not 'sca2yc)1 We knew not, nor did 
we ever know, for on we phinged in the half lamp-ht darkness 
(they have huge swinging lamps swung from corner to corner), 
and away we trotted as merrily, as before this little incident, 
which remained clothed in impenetrable mystery. It served 
thoroughly to awaken us, however, so that we took our last look 
of queenly Mexico with very wide-awake eyes. 

How quiet seemed those .streets, generally so alive with busy 
thousands ! The scrcno was about to make his exit from the 
scene, and the coal-seller, the carhoncro, his entry : he would prob- 
ably be soon followed by the manteqiiilleros (lard-venders), and 
the ledieras (milk-women), the carnicero (butcher), Indian cam- 
bista (exchanger), iortilleros, and the tender duck-venders, whose 
cry is " Oh, my soul, my soul I hot ducks I" (but I believe this is 
an evening cry), huhoneros, (peddlers), the honey and rcqueson-sel- 
lers, and aguadorcs. A remarkably picturesque class, are these 
last. They are water-carriers, and have great earthen jars, slung 
at their backs by a strap, which passes like a bandeau across the 
forehead. Then a mere trifle of a jar, as they seem to consider it 
(we should find rather weighty and unwieldy), swings carelessly 
in front, to balance the bigger one, by a band put over the top of 
the head. 

The sunrise wa-s lovely, and when we looked back at the valley 
of Mexico in the golden light of morning, the prospect was indeed, 
all that one can dream of the beautiful and the sublime. It was 
enough to electrily a mummy, or an oyster with admiration. 

I forgot to say, when we reached the barrier of the city, we 
found an escort of soldiers waiting for us, who immediately ranged 
themselves on either side of the coclic, and cantered leisurely along 
with us. It was after quitting the shores of fair Lake Tezcuco, 
that we turned to the south, and after changing horses at a place 
called the little Peiron (a hill standing in a solitary position be- 
tween the Lakes of Chalco and Xochimilco), we continued our 
course to Ayotla. 

At this point it was that General Scott's army quitted the 
main road to Mexico, and turning round the Peilon Grande to the 
south of the city, followed the opposite shore of the Chalco liake. 
It was near this, at the base of the soaring Peiion, that we bade 
adieu to the glorious valley, and began to toil up the ascent of 
the mountain. 

We had a fresh relay of horses, at a flourishing-looking hacien- 
da of considerable size, on a shelf of the mountain, and it was 



22G TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

looking back from that spot, that the prospect of the unrivaled 
valley, which we had lately leit, was magnificent. Looking to- 
wards Tenango and Ameca, we beheld a vast plain, where stretch- 
ed fields of verdant corn, and. shone out stately liaciendas, and 
the white walls of populous hamlets. Chalco spread its many- 
glittering waveless waters beneath us, and through some chasmy 
opening in the. surrounding hills, you marked Tezcuco, holding its 
sparkling mirror to the morning. Onward and upward then, till 
that earthly heaven, the valley, opened all its apparently Avorld- 
wide scene before you — while the cloud-belted giant mountains — 
some with their foreheads dazzling as very constellations with 
perpetual snow — seemed placed there expressly to draw the glances 
of mortals to the skies, lest they should haply forget them among 
such endless glories and such bewilderment of beauty around. 

Not long after this exquisite view we got deep into the cold 
pine forest, which, I suppose, is the bcgiiming of the tract called 
the " Black Forest ;" and we were glad to draw our cloaks well 
around us; the air felt very sharp. We reached, at length, those 
savage looking defiles, which are said to be the places most 
haunted by robbers, of any in all Mexico, except, perhaps, the coun- 
try about Perote. Our gallant little squadron of lancers took oc- 
casionally, some short cuts in the hilly pine woods, but kept, how- 
ever, within hail. We watched them with some little anxiety ; 
and the party, in general, was observed to be rather more cheer- 
ful, when their gaudy, and gracefully-wreathed ^m-ajics, and long 
lances, with streaming scarlet pennons, were very close to the 
sides of the carriage. 

I have not mentioned, on coming to Mexico we had passed a 
tree under which a whole set of robbers had been shot the week 
before. I did not observe it on our return, but it was somewhere, 
I think, in this forest. Our diligence was nearly lull : we occu- 
pied one side, and besides ourselves there was an agreeable and 
very 2H)/i old French gentleman; a Mexican, with his son, natives 
of I'uebla, and returning there from a visit to the capital ; and a 
young Mexican gentleman who had been educated at New York, 
spoke English remarkably well, and seemed imbued with much 
admiration of " The States," which he in courtesy called the 
United ones. 

(Forgive me, my dear American friends, but just now, when 
you are so fiercely quarreling, it is allowable to say this, is it not? 
One of their printers the other day unintentionally anagrammizcd 
the word, and printed it " Untied States." However, the Arner- 



ESCORT OF LANCERS. 227 



icans I have seen in Mexico seem to lliiiik, in geucral, all these 
vexatious disagTeemcuts will blow over.) 

The French gentleman and two of the Mexicans were carefully 
nursing on their knees splendid sombreros — to be sported on high- 
days and holidays, I suppose. They took oil' the covers which 
protected their treasures iVom dust and dirt, and they were ex- 
tremely handsome, of the most delicate materials, and exquisitely 
decorated with silver. One had the costliest little silver dog on 
it possible, as an ornament, to join the silver band, if I recollect 
rightly ; it was so beautifully executed it almost looked alive, and 
yet was only about the size of the famous little dog in the fayy 
tale that, couched in a nut, betrayed its Avhereabouts by a sharp 
little " Yap, yap." After exhibiting them to our admiring*view 
(I believe they thought our curiosity was excited by the mysteri- 
ous way in which they were folded and enwrap[)ed), they— espe- 
cially the Frenchman — kept up a very animated conversation, in 
Spanish, about the theatres, the great carnival-ball, and so on. 
How happy the Frenchman seemed, talking of ballets and operas, 
and of his seeing Cerito at Paris, and Carlotta Grisi, Mario 
Taglioni, and half a hundred more ! 

A Parisian is a Parisian every where, and always ; for, except 
occasional visits to France, it appeared this gentleman had been 
settled in Mexico. twenty or thirty years: but he was, notwith- 
standing that, apparently as much a citizen of I'aris as if he had 
never peiietrated into the country further than the Bois do 
Boulogne. Every now and then they stopped in the middle of 
an entrechat (that is, the description of one), or left poor Carlotta 
Grisi balancing herself, with great grace, and twirling upon ono 
leg in a very difficult ;;a.s and posture, to throw a sidelong glance 
oia of the window to see whether those who were riding so close 
to the carriage were lancers or ladruncs, and, after tiiis brief 
investigation, "resumed their discourse, till higher and more rugged 
rocks, and a deeper and ever deepening gloom of crowding pines, 
caused another reconnoitring look, and many an uneasy after-peep, 
cast " slantiudicularly" out of the loop-holes of our traveling 
ibrtress. 

One of our lancers was a negro ; another seemed to have en- . 
tircly run to mustaches ; a third, of a light copper-color, had 
swathed himself up in his cloak like an Egyptian mummy (evi- 
dently suliering from the cold severely) ; a Iburth seemed to con- 
sist chielly of lance and spurs, and the point of a bluish nose — the 
points of the one and the other equally sharp. The lifth was a 



228 TRAVELS I.N AMERICA. 

splendid cavalier, whose spirited horse curveted about in the 
most graceful style — but I will not go on particularizing. Suffice 
it that all were sarape'd up almost to the eyes, and that altogether 
they had a most imposing effcct,*and a highly picturesque appear- 
ance. 

Their uniform was multiform, and of all the colors of the rain- 
bow : their complexions varied almost as much, and their horses 
were not behindhand in variety of hues — grays, blacks, alazans 
(sorrel-colored), piebalds, pritios (dark brown), and others. I 
believe, in addition to their lances, they are armed with holster- 
pistols and escopettes. 

With regard to the robbers, we are told they are usually very 
humJhie and often courteous. If the accounts we hear of them, 
from even Mexicans, be true, they ought to be so, as they are 
frequently persons belonging to good society, who having gambled 
away their property, " take to the road," temporarily, as a means 
of recruiting their shattered fortunes. Gambling is the curse of 
Mexico. 

These distinguished marauders appear to consider this a sort of 
guerilla warfare, which is not derogatory or degrading — a singular 
delusion, to say the least of it. A colonel in the army, we were 
told, was shot a little while ago for heading a desperate troop of 
brigands who plundered a diligence, and this is said to be by no 
means an isolated case ; but that, after all, may be an exaggera- 
tion. One thing appears certain ; they are generally exceedingly 
civil and considerate toward passengers who at once give up their 
money and valuables. 

We were told that they have occasionally robbed a party of 
priests ; and then, having ordered the poor fat padres to lie on 
their rubicund faces in the dust — hi boca d tierra, while they 
ransa<dved their trunks — they have insisted on the panting, puffing 
ecclesiastics giving them absolution for their sacrilegious sin. One 
day, it seems, they attacked a large party of actors and actresses 
returning I'rom a visit to INIexieo. They seized their heterogeneous 
wardrobe, and were perfectly enchanted at the gorgeousness of the 
dresses, ghttering with tinsel and spangles. They could not resist 
the dehght of dressing themselves up in their brilliant costumes ; 
and while one accoutred himself like a Roman senator, hanging 
the false flowing beard (which he should have tied to his ell-long 
mustaches) behind like a dragoon's horsetail to his helmet, another 
attired himself in the gracel'ul costume of the Sylphide, with a 
wreath of white roses .stuck on the top of his great bushy head, 



MEXICAN BRIGANDS. 229 

and the little gauzy wings, {listened on to the herculean shoulders, 
50 that he looked like a vast cherub booted and spurred — at any 
rate, we may imagine such mistakes were made. A parly of 
dragoons galio])ed up, rescued the heroes and heroines of the 
buskin, and seized for summary punishment the Sylphides and 
senators. 

We passed numerous crosses on our road through these gloomy 
regions, which indicated where murders had been committed ; but 
these might be relics of the olden time. As for us, we had im- 
mense, unbounded confidence in the lances and mustaches, which 
had so warlike an ap])earance, galloping at our side. They .seemed 
a gallant set altogether, and determined to put to flight any 
number of ladroncs. They were very active and vigilant, and 
spied about for brigands, as if they would rather have liked a little 
sldrmish than not. 

Travelers, however, have sometimes told me in Mexico, that 
they do not place much dependence on them. They say, in the 
first place, when not employed as escorts, they themselves become 
the robbers. That trifling circumstance matters not at all, I 
think, or is rather favorable than otherwise ; for they must know 
the haunts find habits of their sometimes comrades particularly 
well. And then it is so seldom now that travelers carry any real 
valuables with them on these dangerous roads, that their pay and 
gratuities as protectors must be in general a more certain source 
of livelihood to them, than their booty as banditti. Besides, oc- 
casionally travelers must be allowed to go safely, otherwise they 
would more and more restrict themselves to a mere change of linen 
and a few cigars. And then it is the interest of these soldados to 
keep up the confidence of viagcros in. escorts, for thus they are al- 
ways sure of some employment and emolument, either as defenders 
or defiers of the law. No ; I am resolved that nothing shall shake 
my full dependence on these red pennons and purple points of noses. 

At last we drew up at the door of the ^josac/a at Rio Frio, 
which is situated a short distance below the summit of this un- 
comibrtable pass, without having seen the slightest soujifon of a 
robber, to my great delight. The Ahmerzo was already pre- 
pared, and Ave had wherewithal in our purses to pay for it to boot. 
There was a complete hurricane at Rio Frio. 

In the companion coach were Mr. and Mrs. G , and all 

their children (Mr. G had been a traveling companion of ours 

to Mexico). His wife is a French lady, very pleasing-looking, and 
extremely fair, Avith light-colored hair. She traveled a la Mexi- 



230 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

caine, without any bonnet, but, however, not -with a rebow — in 
sliort, with nothing at all on her head : this must have been un- 
pleasant in the clouds of dust that were whirlinf^ about. When 
they got out to go to breakfast, two or three little blue-eyed chil- 
dren were blown away like feathers, and the poor nurse was run- 
ning after them in dismay, and waltzing with the wind in the 
wildest fashion. I remained in the diligence and breakfasted on 
biscuits. I had rather have had hear for breakfast, as we had 
sometimes on the Mississippi. 

Before we started, Mr. G flew (the wind being favorable) 

to the side of the carriage, and told me they were going to Puebla, 
where we should all stop for the night, and I anticipated the pleas- 
ure of making Mrs. G 's acquaintance there ; but fate decided 

otherwise. But now, the horses being to — vcwios, the cocke thun- 
ders along amid the roaring of the wind, and soon we enter another 
somewhat perilous and rugged pass — but this opens on the fair 
and fertile table-land of stately Puebla. 

Boldly stands the peak of Malinehe alone upon the plain, and 
it is the first spectacle that presents itself (and a very noble one 
too) on quitting the shade of the woods. The table-land over 
which our road then led, descends very gradually to Puebla, which 
is a distance of about forty miles. It is covered with maize and 
wheat ; but there does not seem to be any division into hedged 
fields. Here and there you see liacieiidas, and churches, and gar- 
dens, and ruins. These last struck us much when we first came 
from " The States," where such a thing is as rare as a Cape jes- 
samine would be at the North Pole. Popocatapetl looked awfully 
beautiful and magnificent from there, and Iztaccihuatl did not 
yield much to it in grandeur. 

I believe one of Cortez'.s great battles was fought very near this 
volcano of Malinehe ; but I get a little puzzled with the number 
of volcanoes and mountains, and the Aztec and American battles 
— Cortez and (xeneral Scott, " El grande Emperador Montezuma" 
and gallant " Old Zach." 

We soon came in sight of the wonderful and huge pyramid of 
Cholula, built by the Aztecs ; it is supposed as a Tcocalli. A 
temple to Queatzalcoatl formerly stood on it ; but now it is crown- 
ed by a Christian chapel dedicated to the Madonna. 

Some antiquaries have conjectured it served for a cemetery, as 
well as a sanctuary of religion. It is thought by Humboldt to boar 
a striking resemblance to the temple of Belus, and some other 
Oriental edifices. It is believed by the Indians to be hollow ; and 



PYRAMID OF CIIOLULA. Sni 

they have a curious tradition that while Cortez remained at Cho- 
lula, a number of" armed warriors were concealed in it, who were 
to have attacked, suddenly and unexpectedly, the Spanish army. 
It appeal's to be true, at any rate that Cortez, havini? some cause 
for distrust, or some secret information of such an intention, as- 
saulted in a very urdooked-for manner the inhabitants of Puebla, 
and put six thousand to the swoi'd. 

Humboldt says the hase of this mighty pyramid is almost double 
that of the great pyramid of Cheops in Egypt ; its height, how- 
ever, is not so great. It is said to be constructed most exactly in 
the direction of the cardinal points. It consists of four distinct 
tei'races or pyramidical stories, and is entirely built with alternate 
layers of clay and adobes (sun-dried bricks). 

The pyramid is partly covered on the eastern side by the spon- 
taneous growth of vegetation, some prickly pears, and diflerent 
small shrubs, giving it at a little distance, rather the appearance 
of a naturcd abrupt conical-shaped hill. It seems to equal in its 
elevation which is entirely artificial, and in noble form, the range 
of hills that stands in the front of it, or the height of Tlaloc that 
towers behind it. You asceiul to the platform on the summit by 
a flight of about one hundred and twenty steps. 

When the present high road was made from Puebla to Mexico, 
the first story of the Cholula pyramid, it is said, was cut through, 
and a square chamber was brought to light, which had no outlet, 
and which was supported by beams of cypress, and singularly con- 
structed, each succeeding course of bricks passing beyond the lower. 
In this square chamber were found two skeletons, some basaltic 
idols, and a few painted vases varnished in a curious manner. 

It is said, also, that there are fragmentary masses oi adobes and 
clay in the immediate vicinity of the pyramid, in one of which, 
that bore the aspect of an old fortress, were found some bones of 
men, earthenware, and warlike arms of the Aztecs. Plantations 
of aloes, corn-fields, and lovely gardens, and cultivated grounds en- 
viron Cholula. Formerly there was a great Aztec city of Cholula. 

With regard to this extraordinary pyramid, I think the people 
who could be bold enough to become mountain-builders within 
sight of those stupendous volcanoes, Popocatapetl and Iztaccihuatl, 
and so many other mighty mountains, deserve much prai.se for 
their almost sublime audacity. The very idea was amazingly 
grand and daring ; but when you add to this that they succeeded 
in leaving to future generations a work that is strikingly noble 
and magnificent, even in so trying a position, it must be conceded 



232 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

that those barbaric tribes have some claims on the admiration of 
posterity. I hope when we arrive at Vera Cruz to see a drawing 
of the pyramid by Lord M. Kerr. He intended to devote some 
little time to making a sketch of it. 

We lost sight of Cholula at last, and crossed the Tlascala 
River, and then drew near to the many churches, and towers, and 
domes, and convents of populous Puebla. Just as we were about 
to enter the town, we passed the second diligence, whose huge form 
loomed almost like another Cholula on wheels, in tlie dusk, with 
its rather tapering load of trunks, portmanteaus, baskets, and car- 
pet bags. We imagined they had stopped to have the harness 
adjusted, as we thought we saw some shadowy figures standing by 
the horses. However, our cochero stopped to make no inquiries, 
nor to aflbrd any assistance — on he drove to the hotel. 

There were a good many promenaders, probably just returned 
from the Alameda, in the streets, and some cavaliers — I believe 
masked — for the carnival was not over ; but the light was not 
brilliant enough for us to see well. The magnificent cathedral 
seemed heaving its giant frame to the sky, till you might almost 
fancy that those angelic visitants, who were supposed to be its 
builders, were lifting it from the earth to a more blessed region. 
We drove through the Grand Plaza, and soon found ourselves 
dashing into the busy court-yard of the hotel. 

We asked for quartos immediately, and were informed they had 
but one for our whole party. While I was talking to the superin- 
tendent, a person came up to me, and began speaking to me in a 
language that appeared to me a very strange one indeed. I con- 
cluded it might possibly be Poblano-Spanish, with perhaps a slight 
mixture of some Indian dialect, and I began to reply in Spanish, 
to the best of my ability. But my new acquaintance shook her 
head, and made a fresh trial, and I then discovered this unknown 
tongue was intended for — English I 

She was a German (and, by the flickering lamp-light, T saw 
she was very fair and light-haired, and Saxon-looking), and had 

come to Puebla to meet Mrs. G there, to whom she had re- 

recently engaged herself as housekeeper. She was in great trepi- 
dation at their non-arrival, and feared some accident had happened. 
I told her all I knew, and we agreed that they A^'ould probably 
soon arrive. 

Another cochc came rattling in, and down rushed the poor Ger- 
man, hoping the belated travelers were in it ; but she soon returned, 
looking very disconsolate, saying — " dat not dem." Brief as Bem's 



ARRIVAL AT PUEBLA. 233 

letter to, or of the Ban — " Bern Ban baum !" Shortly afterward, 
I ascertained that they had sent to the hotel to say their diligence 
had broken down, and to boo- some sort of carriage might be dis- 
patched to bring them and their luggage immediately. 

In the mean time, 1 had secured t/i/artus. Mr. C , an En- 
glish gentleman whom we had met in Mexico, most obligingly 
gave up his room to us, which was a good-sized one, and got a 
small den .somewhere. Tiie maids were left in possession of a 
sorambliiig-looking apartment, that had been destined for all of us, 
and finding the poor German housekeeper (who was not in the 
least /ike a stately limctionary of that description in looks, for she 
appeared rather sirl/e, and delicate, and pretty) had no apartment, 
they invited her to share theirs. 

We were not sorry to see a good dinner make its appearance, 
■which was soon loUoweil by its disappearance ; for we were very 
hungry. After dinner, Ibaming chocolate Avas brought, and alter 
chocolate we woidd gladly have sought repose, but we lelt anxious 

to see Mr. and Mrs. G and their children arrive in safety, and 

remained up for some time ; but still there were no signs of them. 

So V went to bed, and I a little while after, as we had to be 

up vcri/ early in the morning. I was unfortunate enough thus to 

miss making acquaintance with Mrs. G , who, I was told in 

Mexico, is a very nice person indeed. 

Just as our door was closed for the night, hasty steps were heard 
on the stairs, and in the broad, half-open gallery, sounds of voices 
sj)oaking French and English were distinctly audible. They had, 
tlicn, arrived. My maid told me, the next day, that she had seen 
them, and that they had been detained so long in con,sequcnce of 
there being no conveyance at hand to send for them. 1 believe 
they walked to the hotel, and regretted not having done so at 
once ; lor the (Irst messenger Mr. G sent, never took the mes- 
sage at all, and the poor children were naturally wearied out with 
waiting so long alter their fatiguing journey. 1 believe, however, 
they were to rest a little at Puebla, belbre they proceeded to their 

new home ; lor, if J remember rightly, Mr. G has given up 

the superintendcntship of certain Guauajuata mines, and under- 
taken some not far from Xalapa, for which he is to receive a much 
more liberal salary. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

Dcpaitiuo from Puebla — Acajete — El Pinal — Alarm of Ladrones — Disconi- 
I'orts of rough Roads exemplified — Pulque — Its Taste — The Plant from 
which it is extracted — Mode of extracting it — Monde de Pizano — Arrival 
at Perote — Coldness of that Place in Winter. 

On the following morning we had to rise before three o'clock, 
and so were obliged to give up visiting the Celestial Cathedral of 
Puebla. 

Away we thundered through the deserted streets, and suddenly 
came to a dead stop. A little alarm, lest we had " come to grief," 

like poor Mr. and Airs. G , was quickly dispelled by discovei'- 

ing the codiero had dropped his cloak ; so Ihe conductor had to go 
with a lantern, hunting in the streets for it. The horses fidgeted, 
the passengers grumbled, the time (as it has a habit of doing) sped 
on ; but presently the conductor aiTived, and brought with him 
tne lost treasure, and oft' we rattled again to the east to meet the 
morning. 

We rolled along on the elevated table-land, feeling a little cold, 
and particularly sleepy. We anwed at last at Amozoque, which 
is said to be swarming with robbers ; but we were so forttmate as 
to see none. From this place you ascend by a veiy gentle inclina- 
tion, to the summit of the separating ridge beyond Perote. Boldly 
and proudly towered the great mountain walls of the table-land. 

Tlie next relay was at Acajete. At one of these places we 
tasted some spring water, said to be wonderfully fine, but we did 
not think it so very remarkable. It is reported that a large gang 
of ladrones conceal themselves often among the ravines and bar- 
rancas of the Acajete mountains. I am happy to say they did not 
leave their ambush. We drove on pretty rapidly past thickets, 
and shelving rocks, and frowning precipices, and stopped to change 
horses at El Pinal, on the northern side of the mountain, a large 
and fine hacienda, and then rattled speedily along to Nopaluca, 
where the dUigcncla breakfasted. - 

I do not remember accurately wdiere, but someiclierc not very 
far from this, there was an alarm oi ladrones given in the diligence. 
A number of mounted horsemen, apparently well armed, made 



ALARM OF LADRONES. 235 

their appearance ; and one, who looked hke a chief or captain 
among them, galloped tolerably near, and seemed to be busily oc- 
cupied in reconnoitring our carriages, the passengers, and the pos- 
sible booty. 

The French gentleman seemed convinced they were — " Les 
voleurs I oui, ma foi, les voila, tenez, il faut — Mais, non — attendez, 
voyons lui peu. Eh, oui ! c'est le 'meme ;" and elevating his 
voice, leaning half out of the carriage, taking off his sombrero, 
and waving his hand, he called, " Como I Scnor, quien se lo hubi- 
era imaginado ? Se lo hubieran esperado ? Pardiez ! Me alcgro 
de ver a V. ! Celebro mucho ver a V. Me atrevere a pedir 
adonde vd V. V Many compliments passed between them, and 
after a number of mutual civilities and salutations, and a perfect 
lightning flash of brilliant teeth, shown by the gracious smiles of 
the caballero, away he dashed from the side of the carriage, still 
bowing to the seiioras, and being joined by his companions, was 
soon lost to sight. The French gentleman told us, he had met 
him accidentally somewhere, and been enabled to show him some 
trifling kindness and civility, and that on recognizing him so luckily, 
he reminded the caballero of it, and for his sake were thus saved 
our watches and coins. 

By this time we were shaken almost out of all knowledge ; one 
of our bonnets looked like a small coal-scuttle in convulsions ; a 
wretched Mexican had his sombrero almost smashed into his face ; 
another had his visage knocked about with many whacks, pleasingly 
diversifying his olive complexion with patches of black and blue. 
When we attempted to talk, it was very much like speaking in 
e7tirechats, our poor words had to cut such extraordinary capers in 
our throats. The unhappy Monsieur seemed at one moment like 
an Indian juggler about to bolt a sword, scabbard and all, or a 
boa constrictor preparing to swallow its victim, and beginning 
v/ith one limb at first. The poor man had only got his neighbor's 
elbow in his mouth, which another jolt almost sent half way down 
his throat. 

Our conversation was necessarily fitful. " Mais ou done est 
mon chapeau ? Cette voiture fait danser tout d'une maniere — 
Oh ! je vous en prie — Ne vous derangez pas. Monsieur." But 
Monsieur just at that moment was very much " derange ;" he was 
tossed as in a blanket to the highest roof, and down again, and 
probably alighted upon the identical chcqjcau they were looking 
for. "No le incomoda a V. este paquete, Seiior?" And " este 
paquete," at the same moment of time, lodged itself unscrupulously 



236 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

on tlie nose of the civil questioner. " Hombre ! verdaderamente 
los camiuos no son muy buenos, pero, quo herniosa vista I Qu6 

maguilico pais ! rarece " But the poor wretch just then 

had his hat jammed over his eyes, which stopped his rapture. 
tSliorlly after, you must imagine an immensely poHte conversation 
{ioing ibrward. The French Monsieur discovers that the Mexican 
iSefior is goiug to Xalapa as well as himscU", and he is charmed. 
" Tendre el placer de gozar de su eompahia de V., porque yo tam- 

bien " And while thus saying, even, the Seiior hits him 

such a terrible whack, by an involuntary butt with his head, that 
the wretched victim is doubled up lor haH'-an-hour by it. 

At last we learned to Avatch for the comiug jolt, when the horses 
or mules were all at full gallop, and the road rather worse than 
usual. At the lirst symptoms of plunges and shocks, conversation 
would be generally as suddenly stopped, as if the whole company had 
unexpectedly been gagged : and some would screw their mouths 
into the tightest of button-holes, others open theirs wide (the wisest 
plan, which I can safely recommend, as it saves your teeth from 
being jammed together in lock-jaw fashion, or played upon like 
castanets), gasping " like a cat-lish with a sock-dolager hook in its 
mouth," but all exhibited countenances of intense horror. We 
almost lelt sometimes as if our heads had been jolted off, and re- 
jolted on again, ha])py if each got his own head back : what a 
shame it would have been il" one person had acquired two, and aped 
Austria's double-headed eagle I 

We tried some j)nlquc lor the first time, when changing horses 
at one of the posadas, during this journey : the first time I ever 
saw others drinking it, I thought they were draining large draughts 
of new milk (lor it looks exactly like it), and admired much the 
teetotalism of that knot of anicroa, and ru/ichcros, and viozos. 
Then and there .1 was informed it was the famous ^i;/ry?<e they 
were so industriously imbibing. 

I had not at this time courage to taste it, for I heard an alarm- 
ing account of it ; but on our return we all tasted and sipped. 

11 and W thought it like indillerent small beer; I 

thought it like nothing exactly, but that it stood " alone in its glory," 
— matchlessly horrible. But 1 can just imagine that you might 
get used to it in about a hundred and fifty years, and in a hundred 
more learn to like it : but, on second thoughts, I thiidv this is a 
little exaggeration, and you might by possibility become an earlier 
convert. I must also add, to give the stuli"ils due, that we were 
told that this was very inlbrior puJcpie, and therofbre we must not 



PULQUE. 237 

condemn universal pulque after tasting such a bad specimen. It 
is said to be but very little intoxicating, and exceedingly nutritious, 
(50 it deserves well of its country ; and its countrymen have reason 
to prize it, and sing and say, as Mr. Ruxton tells us they sometimes 
do — " Viva nosotros y pulque." 

The Maguey {Agarr A'nicnca7ta), from which this beverage is 
extracted, is an aloe, and is very extensively cultivated in Mexico. 
The most famous plantations of it are in the vicinity of Clioliila, 
and also those in the Llanos de Apam ; there are many])laccs be- 
sides celebrated lor excellent y«//f/z<e, as the valley of Teluco, where 
the pulque is supplied IVorn immense Maguey grounds near Lerma, 
and numerous otliers. The plant grows wild in every part of 
Mexico, but is not cultivated or milked, i.e. drained of its precious 
sap, except in certain districts. I should imagine, however, the 
cultivation of it is fast spreading, as the consumption ajipears to 
be perfectly enormous. We saw immense fields of it in many parts 
during our journey. 

The process of preparing for the supply of pulque is curious. 
When the central shoot, which would naturally produce the flower, 
is on the eve of making its appearance, it is anticipated, and rather 
harshly nipped in the bud, by a deep incision being made, and the 
whole heart being taken out, as one of those most savage and 
merciless barbarians of civilized life, called dentists, extracts a tooth, 
by the roots. This operation is generally performed by the Indians, 
whose forefathers had a little knack of doing a similar service to 
human subjects, but not with such beneficial results. Having thus 
extracted el corazon, only the stout outside rind is left, which acts 
the part of a natural cistern, or large basin, both deep and wide, 
into which the sap, which dame Nature designed for the sustenance 
of the immense central shoot, oozes perpetually in vast quantities. 
Then comes the experienced Indian (athirst already, and fired by 
thoughts of coming pulque^ and hacks away the leaves on one 
side, so as to make a regular breach in these vegetable battlements, 
and thrusts in a long gourd (acojote) whose lesser end is finished 
olf by a horn, while a small square orifice is left at the other ex- 
tremity, to which his mouth is applied, Avhile by the force of suction, 
he extracts the sap, which sap, before fermentation takes place, is 
named agua-miel (honey-water), and, in accordance with its name, 
has an extremely sweet taste, and is quite destitute of that extra- 
ordinary smell (not much unlike that of eggs in the sere and yellow 
leaf of their existence) which appears afterward to form one of its 
peculiar charms. The sap is allowed to ferment for about fifteen 



23S TRAVELS IN AiMERICA. 

days, when it becomes what they term madre 'pulque (the mother 
o{ pahiuc), and this is distributed — but only in niggardly quantities 
— among the troughs which are to receive daily accessions of agua- 
miel. It acts as a kind of leaven, fermentation immediately begins, 
and in about a day the 'puhiuc is ready for drinking. "Viva noso- 
tros y pulque I" 

From this plant is also prepared a horribly strong brandy (which 
we have not tasted) called Mexical (or Mczcal or Aguardiente de 
Maguey), which is but too highly approved of in general in this 
country. A more interesting subject in connection with it, is the 
use the Aztecs made of its leaves in manufacturing the paper on 
which their hieroglyphics were written, some fragments of which 
have survived. They now make of the more fibrous portions, a 
stout thread, or twine, called inta, which is formed into ropes, and 
made use of in the mines, and as cordage for ships on the Pacific 
coast : it is said to be very strong and lasting. In short, the 
Maguey seems to play an important part in Mexico altogether. 

There were a lew rocky peaks not far from our road ; but 
dreaming of the Tierra Caliente — the world of flowers and beauty 
we were soon to see — we did not care much to gaze at the inhos- 
pitable looking landscape, save where afar the Collre de Peroto 
(whose Indian name is Nauhcampapetl) gleamed out, and mighty 
Orizaba raised his refulgent crest. 

We came at length to La Vcnta de Soto, near which towers a 
huge pyramidal peak of rock of perhaps three thousand feet high 

Monte de Pizarro. From its gloomy clefts and hollows and 

hiding-places, it is reported /os ladroncs often start to terrify and 
rob passengers. We afterward entered into that lonely rugged 
volcanic region, which had struck us much in coming, but which 
looked particularly wild, bleak, and gloomy by the evening light, 
which was beginning by slow degrees to lade oil'. 

The black frowning lava scattered in broken and confused beds, 
as if earthquakes had helped in those olden convulsions of Nature, 
to produce wilder confusion, looked "dreary indeed. Somewhere in 
Mexico, it is said, a vi'hole population was buried alive (as at 
Pompeii, I suppose), and this might well be the spot ; for many 
of these huge blocks of lava look like giant tomb-stones. There 
were a few dilapidated cabanas, or chozas (huts and cottages), left 
to decay, as if their inhabitants could no longer ciulLU-e the oppress- 
ive gloom of this stern and savage region. Acheron should flow 
through these melancholy congenial scenes. I believe it is called 
"mal pais" (the bad country). 



ARRIVAL AT PEROTE. ;?:!0 

After a dismal drive across this cheerless territory, with only 
the grandeur of the Cofire do Perotc to admire, we arrived at tlic 
town. The fortress, where the commandant is our friend, the 
Coronel Aguado, frowned down upon us, and we soon galloped 
into the court-yard belonging to that well-remembered collcctioa 
of dens and cellars, which is called an hotel in Perote. I must 
not omit to mention, that we had passed innumerable crosses, each 
showing where some poor wretch lies buried. The people here, 
as before, refused us a separate dinner at first, and afterward re- 
lented, and sent us a very good one. Before dinner, one of our 

coniixi<^nons de voyage, Mr. C , knocked at our immense barn 

doors, and wanted to know if he could be of any use in sending us 
dinner. I went out to speak to him, and was surprised at the 
metamorphosis the bleak air of Siberia-like Perote had wrought 
in him — he was of a tint hovering between azure and Prussian 
blue, and his teeth were literally chattering in his head. 

After dinner we had some delicious chocolate. We had a most 
obliging and good-natured woman to wait on us, with very sweet 
and pleasing manners, quite too good and amiable for such a wild, 
bleak, drear, robber-haunted place. She seemed like a disguised 
])rinccss in Perote. If so, she was the most condescending one in 
the world, for she ran to and fro with the greatest alacrity, bring- 
ing us all sorts of dishes, stewed, and fried, and boiled. 

I was half asleep when she came to clear away the things and 
bring chocolate. 1 told her I was horribly tired (for a wonder, for 
I very seldom am so with traveling). " Y con razon, Seilorita — " 
(you must know every body here is called sciwrUa — no matter if 
she has a hundred children, and is a hundred herself, she is still 
called miss and child, nina. You may hear sometimes a little 
beggar girl entreat a decrepit, toothless, bent-double cldld of seven- 
ty, to give her rxiridad,) " con razon, los caminos son tan malos, 
tan detestables." 

She told me she had sometimes been to Puebia, and was always 
half dead after it. I asked her if it was not terribly cold at Pe- 
rote in the winter ; " O si, muchissima." She said the snow was 
often very deep for a long time together. I glanced round the 
room and thought "poor travelers'." iu order to have any light in 
the day-time, they iiuist have their door open ; and there is no 
stove or provision of any sort for giving warmth to the desolate 
dens ! She told me they kept themselves warm in the kitchen ; 
but altogether a Perote winter must be a dreary afliiir. 

After a little more conversation, she went to find a lamp for us, 



\ 

240 TRAVELS IN AM'KrICA. 

_ - . 

and relumed speedily with a very promising-looking one. She 
begged us then to lose no time in going to bed, as we should have 
to get up at about two o'clock in the moruing ; therefore, in her 
soft musical voice, she counseled us to retire immediately, " Se lo 
suplica a V." IVe took her advice, and slept well till a terrify- 
ing rat-a-tatting at our prison gates aroused us from slumber, and 
•we hastily dressed by the light of the lamp and a vela, which our 
kind friend, the disguised princess, had left us. 

My maid told me there was an immense party last evening at 
dinner, ibr a great number of Priests and Sisters of Charity liad 
arrived, and there were hardly tables and dinner enough to accom- 
modate them all. She said these Sisters of Charity appeared all 
healthy, stout, hard-working people ; and their rough, coarse hands 
seemed to be accustomed to somewhat severe labor. She luider- 
stood from an American there, that they had just come from 
Spain. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Departure from Perote — Magnificent Views from the Heights — Impres- 
sions caused by them — The Beauty of the Approach to Xulapa describ- 
ed — The JNIirage — Appearance of inverted Houses — Hotel do Diligen- 
cias — Vi^^it to a Church — Negotiation with the Mozo touching tlie Sarape 
and the American Blanket — Numbers of Friars and Nuns from Spain — 
Arrival at Vera Cruz — A curious Fact in Relation to Dr. Gutzlatf, the 
Missionary to China — Arrival of the Steamer for the Havana. 

Bitterly cold was it when we took our places in the diligen- 
cia, the morning we bade adieu to scowling Perote, alter having 
a desayu?io of cofiee and chocolate, and a small roll, brought in 
compassionately by one of the mozos, for, of course, our poor pi-in- 
ccsa was still locked in slumber. 

We rolled heavily through the gloomy, hfeless streets, which 
echoed with the tramp, tramp, of our eight mules. Most magnifi- 
cently shone the stars, like so many diamond moons ; but they 
looked almost as cold as ourselves. On we went, through the star- 
lit, piercing, chilly atmosphere, between ten and eleven thousand 
feet, or thereabouts, above the sea. 

At last the pale gray of morning became visible, and soon after 
up rose the glorious welcome sun, and showed us that we were on 



VIEWS FROM THE HEIGHTS. 241 

the heights of the pass, and about to descend through the woods 
of shadowing pine. Now then, for all the climates of the world, 
" succeeding each other in layers," to use Baron Humboldt's well- 
known expression in describing Mexico. For the visitor to this 
Land of Marvels, the traveler in these magioal regions, in the course 
of a coui)le of days (and it is possible to do the same tiling in a 
far less space of time — })erha])S iu some ])arts iu a couple of hours), 
may cast his eye over the whole scale of the earth's varied vege- 
tation, from the Tropics' gorgeous and dazzling parasitical plants, 
to the sombre firs and pines of the Arctic Circle. 

Our descent was not at all a precipitous one at lirst ; but after 
a time we journeyed along quite on the extreme brink and edge 
of the mountains, so that by leaning far out of the carriage, one 
could catch the sublimest views conceivable of all that intervened 
between their towering summits and the sea. The high mount- 
ain chain to the north of the pass turns eastward, and is continued 
on to tiie Gulf of Mexico, in parallel lines of ridges, on the heights 
of which the traveler's eye looks down ; and that eye might also 
see confusedly, beautiful, wiki, and solitary dells among the hills, 
and the sombre black region of lava and dwarled and ragged pines, 
that he is leaving, and wilderness after wilderness of beauty that 
he is approaching nearer and nearer to ; and from tlie crest of 
some of the hills, looking to the south, the awful majesty of the 
Mountain of the Star (Orizaba), its dazzling brow crowned Avith 
unchangeable resplendence, till it seemed to have a brighter day- 
light of its own. Let him look behind him, and see the white 
frost like a faint s[)rinkling from the snows of the Collre, blanching 
the funereal lijliage of the solemn branches of ])ine and the beds of 
gloomy lava ; and let him look belbre him, and laark the groves 
of oranges, the corn-fields, the gardens of roses, and the palm — 
daughter of the sun — and thrice ten thousand flowernig and bloom- 
ing trees I — There laughs a leaping brook, lustrous, fresh, and 
clear, as if all the roses had shed all their diamond iletvs to form 
its fairy stream, and it rolled, tinted and blushing with their re- 
flections. And here a forest of labyrinthine bowers makes a warm 
and glowing darkness of flower-shadows — zones after zones, re- 
gions after regions, expanse after expanse, are stretching at his 
feet. 

Not the world, but many worlds seem to be outspread in bound- 
less magnificence before us, for it is so seldom you think of the 
single Earth, mingling in one transcendent unity — one conjunction 
of almost antagonizing elements and properties, all the diversities, 

L 



242 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



all the conflicting extremes it possesses, that when you beliokl 
thciii thus tlisplayt-Hl in one overpoworinfj- consummate burst of 
triumph, and in the most stupoudous and imposing- array, you 
seem cnterinfi- on a new stale of existence, on a fresh stage of 
bein'>', and can hardly believe that these wonders, crowded, heap- 
ed, precipitated, and concentrated — (each separate beauty, each 
dillerent disphiy of grandeur, gaining so much by such juxtiiposi- 
■tion — such surpri.<iug contrast, that each seems far more beauti- 
ful, and far more majestic) — can indeed be the same lo which tlie 
eye, or the tutored tliought, or the imagination has been accus- 
tomed. These varieties, so accumulated and agglomerated, seem 
to be new varieties ; this creation, with all its choicest and selcct- 
est wonders and glories, so combined and united to each other, 
seems a vision of many creations, and the boundary — which, how- 
ever seems no boundary to all this gorgeous magnilicence, but only 
a continuation, along wliich the dreaming, straining eye appears 
to travel into elernily — is the all-glorious immeasurable ocean ! 

Willi sucli a spectacle spread out before him does the traveler 
(lash downward — only loo last — to beautiful Xalapa. tfpring and 
summer seem ilying on wings of the raijiboAV and the rose to greet 
him ; and every oiloriitMously-bveathiug zephyr is an aviVit-courier 
of the lloral delights that aM'ait him. JNlilos before you are 
whirled into the bowery, llowery, country-like town of Xalapa, you 
rejoico in the far-Uoating odors of its crowding orange groves ; 
and, what a scene enchants you : Fields of living emerald and 
chrysoprase ; woods bathed in the beauty of myriads of blossoms 
(the starry orange bowers enuilating the snows of glittering Ori- 
zaba) ; lovely slopes, the most graceful picturesque hollows ; and, 
built on the smiling brows of sunny hills, lordly-looking hacien- 
das, with their while walls sparkling like s])olless alabaster ; and 
tangled mazes of vernal delights, and startling plienomcna of 
vegetation ; such as stems that seem bearing all the flowers of 
one zone together, so crossed and mingled are the blossomy treas- 
i^ii-es — (indeed in some places it seemed like solid masses of 
blooms). And what fairy glens and gorges, and glittering ham- 
lets, and sequestered homes, and halt-ruined convents glimmering 
through many-colored thickets, and vailing streamers of a thou- 
sand-iendrilled blossoming vines ; and tortuous paths, and silvery 
winding rills, and soft acclivities, seemingly intersecting and as it 
were overlapping each other, as if to conceal some more precious 
treasures of myslic beauty — if that were possible I And in some 
parts, afar oil something that almost looks like a pageant of gor- 



HOTEL I)E DILKJENCJAS. 



1213 



gcous sunset clouds fallen to earth, and melting in multitudinous 
splcmdor-it IS but a varieoaied heaj) of the all but endless growths 
ot Nature m these refrjons, hillowin<r over some risin- grounds 
swelhng wah soltest undulatio.is, while the whole resounds with 
the joyous notes ol sui<,niii.- birds. 

But all this time L have Ibrootten to tell of the beautiful mirage 
we saw aniong the mountains : it was pointed out to us by M 

( _ . it was hardly possible to believe it was not lakes of 

sliuung water we saw: the illusion was extraordinarily perlecf 
and some ni the earriage obstinately refused to believe any thin.: 
but tbe evulence u theu- own fallible senses, till the seene gradu- 

them ol heir error. We were told it was of very unusual oc-eur- 
renee ni those parts. 

There was a marvelous appearanee also of some inverted 

tlTt^l'f iTTr"' ' ^'--^^^i''^^-'- - reality: and beside, 
that, we beheld, be/ore we left the mountain, a sin-ular phe- 
iiomenon-an immense white stratum oi" clouds, sprea.l out exactly 
Ike a vast ocean of snow, concealing, ihv a short time, tbe ma-r- 
nhcent view beneath. This vanishe.l as the sun gained powtr 
having made its appearance during tbe mornincr iwiji.rbt 

liut now we must enter the charming " calles" of tl.at pearl of 
cities, Xalapa. Again we admired its single-slorie.l, terraced and 
balconied houses, smothered in the loveliest of gardens, and many 

t^:x:^:: ''"'- ^-^ '-'''--^ - ^'^ ^i-d.porceiai^ 

We descended the steep streets to the Hotel de Dilirrencias 
where this time we had much better rooms than the last • we had 
a very pretty, large, and airy apartment, dec.n-ated with a pro- 
lusion ot gayly-pa.nted arabesques, m fresco, ami opening on t^o a 
broad balcony on one side, and on another to a large wide .ralJorv 
commumcatn.g with a beautiful covered .sort of half conservatory 
hall corridor, enehant.ngly pretty, adorned with plants, and from 
this branches the arge balcony that runs round'the sides of the 
inner walls of the house, overlooking the great court-yanl, which 
balcony was rather a favorite promena.ling place when the huoe 
dihgencias were heard dashing in from various parts 

vei^temHitty''r'-"f"''''r/" '''^' l"'^'^'^^'"" °^"«"r 'f'^'"-^-^'' ^ 

vciy pietty little lair-haired boy came running into the court-yard 

in great haste. Jt was the little son of M : he was S 

mtroduced to us and appeared to be a charming little fcdlow ; the 
day was beaut.lul, but cold; and as we were to stay at Xalapa 



244 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

till the morrow, owing to the arran<2:emeiits of the diligcncias, we 

went out walking, to see some of the old churches. Mr. C 

escorted us. 

We climbed up the steep street, and arrived at a handsome- 
looking church, which was said to be beautil'ul Avithin, and to 
have great treasures oi' plata (silver). After a little diiiiculty we 
efiected an entrance. There was a great deal of dazzling silver 
certainly : but my attention was painfully arrested by some large 
Avooden figures intended to represent our blessed Saviour, and 
which were truly shocking ; they were most extravagantly painted. 
We al'lerward walked a little way to see some of the beautiful 
views of this charming place, past the gardens, with their Avild 
profusion of clove-carnations, roses, jessamines, and orange trees. 

As Ave strolled on we heard the sweet sounds of a harp suddenly 
struck very near us. We were just passing a large, handsome 
house, and without intending to be uncivil, on the impulse of the 
moment we all looked into the large lofty ground-iloor room from 
whose enormous open but iron-barred Avindows were pouring the 
echoing strains : Ave saw a black-haired though fair sehorita, 
apparently just taking her music lesson ; for a grave music-master- 
like serior Avas standing by her, and, as it seemed to us, marking 
the time, and explaining the nature of the aria. 

The seiiorita, having looked up, caught sight of us immediately, 
and blushing deeply remained iu the attitude, and wrapped in the 
silence of a painted St. Cecilia, suspended in unite surprise. It 
was evident that the good Xalapenos were never in the habit of 
giving way to such indiscreet habits of impertinent curiosity; so 
reluctantly we passed on, and soon after the melodious strains re- 
commenced. 

After returning to the hotel, I gave a commission to Mr. C , 

to fnid me a sarape, such as are Avorn here. A 'luuzo brought iu 
a goodly number ibr me to choose from. Now it happened there 
Avas a deep-blue immense American blanket, Avhich I Avanted to 
get rid of and as I had brought the least possible money with me 
(for not wishing to enrich the coders of the robbers, 1 had the rest 
by bills on Vera Cruz), it was decided it Avas better to throw that 
blanket into the bargain (since after Perote's chilly regions it was 
no longer needed), and the wonderful bewilderment of the poor 
mozo, at this ])roposition, Avas higiily diverting. He said in 
piteous accents, his master had told him exactly what to do : and 
as the master had, naturally enough, not contemplated the circum- 
stance that had by chance arisen, he had not tutored the mozo on 



SARAPE AND AMERICAN BLANKET. 24a 

this particular continocncy ; so that lie seemed at his wit's end to 
know what to answer. 

" Well," said I, in my choicest Spanish, " go and ask your 
master ; then you will be sure to be right." 

" J}iit how can I go ?" said he, " till I know what the lady has 
bought 1" 

" i shall buy this one, if your master will let me have it for — " 
(I forget the sum) — " and take this blue one — and you can leave 
this and take the rest." 

" Oh, no I no es posible." 

Well, then, he might take them all (mine included) to his mas- 
ter, and bring back that one, and I could then pay lor it. 

" No, no, that would not do : ' Dispense V. Sehorita,' that is 
quite out of the question." 

" JJut why?" and here he talked so fast, and as it seemed to 
me in such a curious jJcUois, that I could not quite follow him ; 
but yet it appeared to me ho wished to leave the chosen one. 
We ollered all sorts of arrangements, but nothing would do. At 

last Mr. C was called in to try to clear up the matter ; he 

could not, and Senor Novarro was at last a])pliod to — whom, by 
the way, we found here just where we had left him. lie soon 
made all clear ; he heard the man's story (who sjwke in the most 
impetuously rapid way, so that none but a native could have well 
understood him), and he laughed mnch, and said that stupid man 
declared he did not know for his lile what to do. 

" For," said he, " 1 can not arrange any price for the blue 
blanket, for my master gave me no directions about it. I can not 
leave the scmnpes here to go and ask him, because they are not 
paid for, and if one was paid for in full and 1 left it, 1 can not 
take the rest tciih the blue blanket, to show, because the lady will 
have no security for my return, and I can not take — " 

But hero Senor Novarro intcrruj)ted him, and said that he was 
sui'c the lady wouldn't mind, and then he explained the diOiculty. 
The shopman and the sampcs were sent olV, and he soon returned, 
saying what his master would allow, and the mighty bargain was 
speedily and satisfactorily closed for all parties. 

Soon after, a diligence came tlumdering down the street, and 
we repaired to the great balcony to see the new arrivals. 

A huge diligence, full of friars and nuns, made its appearance; 
and Senor Novarro told me the enormous number of these gentry 
that had lately arrived, filling every j)ublic conveyance, had been 
the cause of his detention at Xalapa, for he could not get a single 



246 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

place. I asked him to M'hat he attributed this immense influx of 
padres and nuns from Spain, and whether he thought it was owinf( 
to the ahirm occasioned by the late spread of revolutionary doc- 
trines, lie had heard no cause assijrned, but believed such was 
the case. It is certainly a curious fact, that, thongh we never 
traveled with any in the stage coaches ourselves, we had seen 
crowds of diligences constantly crammed with these reverend emi- 
grants. 

We left Xalapa very early the next morning, after a fruitless 

search lor some keys which IT lost a little while belbre we 

had to start. The sleepy /i/i/chacha gave us a candle with a snulf 
of alarming length, and I asked for dcspabilddcras, snuliers, which 
liikes a certain time to pronounce, and by the time the said dcsjxi- 
biladeras were ibund (which seemed to have gone on a party of 
})leasure for the day, with the keys), it was already the time to 
start, and after we had a very hurried chase — quite a quick thing, 
but we could not catch our keys — and put on our sombreros (which 
ladies' bonnets are called, as well as gentlemen's hats), it was 
rather late, and we had some reason to think the American coach- 
man Avas somewhat indignant at the delay, though he amiably 
waited lor us. Cerro Gordo's varrancas perhaps put him in good- 
humor again. 

When we arrived at Vera Cruz, we found the steamer had not 
arrived. She was very much after her time. Unluckily for ns, 
we found the Casa de Diligencias quite full, and were obliged to 
put up at another hotel (kept by two Frenchmen), which Avas not 
nearly so good. I stupidly forgot to send M. Surutuza's letter, 
obligingly desiring that rooms should be found lor us, and every 
attention paid us ; and, indeed, without that, Mr. Bell sent word 
soon after we were established in this hotel, that he would contrive 
to give us apartments ; but as the steamer was momentarily ex- 
pected, and as the proprietors of this o)ieso}i try to make us as 
comfortable as they can, I did not avail myself of his obliging 
proposition. 

Among other people whom we recognized as having either 
formed part of our compagnons dc voyage, on board the United 
States steamer " Walker," or as having been here before, was 

Mr. , who had come over in the '■ Walker," for the purjiose 

of bringing back from Mexico the body of his brother (who had 
died there from the ellects of wounds received during the Mexican 
war), and conveying it to Indiana for interment. 

There was an objection to the corpse being taken on board the 



ARRIVAL AT HAVANA 247 

" Walker," I believe : at any rate Mr. was still at Vera 

Cruz, not liavinn; yet aceoinplishod his nielaiicholy mission, but 
is about to sail, i tiiinlc, in a packet sliip. IJe is English by birth, 
but has been so long settled in the United States, tliat he has be- 
conu! quite an Anieriean, even in appearance. 

This reminds me of a curious lact I have heard slated, namely, 
that Dr. Gutzlafij who lias been S(i long a missionary to China, 
and is lately returned, has contracted quite a Chinese aif.t of fcxd- 
ttres, as well as a Celestial frait, countenance, and manners. The 
latter one can easily imagine, the I'ormer seems somewhat of a 
physiological curiosity. 

The British Consul has just been to see me, and tells me they 
have a great deal ol' specie arrived to go by tlie steamer, and au 
immense mail, lie says the steamer will probably arrive lo-night, 
and he and his son must sit up all night fo get the letters and 
j)apers in readiness Ibr her. We almost live upon tlio balcony, 
ibr the heat inside the room is nearly insupportable. Cood news! 
The English steamer " Tiiames" has just made her appcarauGC. 



CA\AV'VV.T^ XXXV. 

Arrival at Havana, — Passcng<>rs on Hoard the "'J'liames" — Allbcling Story 
ol' an American JMcrclianl's nnr<)rcs(H'n Calaniity — An Aniori(>an (Jrinliii 
tiililnms — 'i'lio uiiKM-piisiiig political Organ-grindor — ]<"ir,st (Jliniiisc of 
Havana — Tlie Ilaibur — Tlio Morro t^usllo and the Puntal — The C^ahanas 
— Tlio City of Havana — Volantes — Th(3 Pasoo — Ladies ot Havana — Tlioir 
J)ress — 'l"hc Gentlemen — Usages oidailaulry at Havana — 'J'ho Military 
— Reviews and Music — Anxiety of S|)ain to retain ('uha — Cathedral of 
Havana — The AsIkss of Clolunihiis — His Hiisi — How his Ashes have heeii 
removed from I'laeo to IMaee — Worshipers in the Cathedral — The Hish- 
op'.s (Jarden — Jlarii and iieaiitiful Trees and J''lowers — Hurricanes at 
Havana — Volante.s in universiil Use — VVh(;rc liestovved sometimes — Ha- 
vana Houses — How furnished — Social Customs in Havana — Fruits. 

Wk arrived here (at the Havana) after a ten or eleven days' 
voyage — three days, however, of which we were detained at Tam- 
}iieo ; for tlie sea ran so high, the little steamboat that was to 
bring out the specie could not get over the har .sooner. The bar 
was (VO.S.S, they said ! 

We ibund the " Thames" a charming ship ; so clean, and cool, 
and large — and we had several very agreeable jiassengers. Among 



248 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

tliem were Lord IM. Kerr and Mr. Bayard Taylor — the author 
of some beuutirul jwotieal ])icces, and oi" a work eutitlod " Views 
A-ibot." lie performed a pedeslrian lour nearly all over Europe, 
lie Avas lliGJi returning from California, and is, 1 believe, on tlio 
eve of publishing a work — already prepared for the press — relatintic 
to that counlry, which, I shoulil think, would be exceedin<rly in- 
teresting, lie is a very gentlemanlike young man, and appears 
lull of intelligence and information. 

Mr. Hill, an English gentleman just returned from a lengthen- 
ed tour, was also on board, lie had been living between two and 
three years in Russia and Siberia (the last 9iot involuntary!), 
having latterly eome from South America and Polynesia. He 
had sailed from Kamtschatka, in a Russian merchant ship, and 
while in South America, had made several excursions inland. His 
account of the ])oorer classes in Siberia, (where the peasants arc 
jiot serls), made one thiidv they must Ibrm almost the happiest and 
most nourishing peasantry in the world. It ap])cars they have not 
only plenty to boil in the pot, but they have the pot boiling ahuost 
all day long : in short, plenty of i'uel, and ])lenty of Ibod and cloth- 
ing. Very unlike the uoor Cal/forniami of oldeii days. It is probably 
known to many that on that very soil, now found to be teeming 
with the golden treasures of earth, the former inhabitants, in a 
slate of the most abject poverty, were wont to subsist on grass- 
liop]>ers I 

A\'e slopped at Mobile point, on our way hither, to land and 
receive passengers and specie, and came-to among the crowded 
shipping at the anchorage there ; but, in consequence of our long 
delay at Tampico, the " Thames" staid as short a time as possible, 
and 1 had not an opportunity of seeing my dear friend Madame 

L. V . ]Mr. Bayard Taylor, who landed there, was good 

enough to take her a note from me. 

There was a very melancholy circumstance connected with our 

brief stay at Blobile. Mr. , an American merchant, who liad 

been 1o IMexico on business, expected to receive at Mobile, letters 
IVoui his wife, to whom he had written IVoin Mexico to say he 
should go by way of the Havana to New York, on such a day, by 
one of the American steamers (they are generally very punctual), 
and as they ordinarily arrive in the evening, he begged her to have 
te^a ready for him. 

He a])peared a A^ery j)leasant, amiable person, and was extreme- 
ly popular in the ship. I liad not made his acipiainlance ; but 
one could not but remark his liveline.'^s of manner and flow of 



AFFECTING STORY. 249 



aniusiufj- conversation. lie -was in llio higlicst spirits that rnoni- 
iiiji' — poor man I C'onipa!?sioiiatii)<if Mr. "^IVylor for not having: to 
look Ibrwanl " to tea prepufod ready Ibr him," and evidently lull 
oi'joy and happiness. 

[Iho last time \ saw him, he was leanin<^ over Die rail of the 
steamer, most merrily talking and huinjiing with those passcnpers, 
who were transierred to a small liigh-jjfessm-e IVeight-boat, that 
was to lake them to ]\1(d)il(' (as soon as the (()<r would graciously 

permit) — Mr. Taylor, Mr. C , tVc. We soon alter continued 

on our course, and 1 went down to the cabin to read a little heff)ro 
dinner, wliich was very shortly al'lerward ready. 1 was rather 
snrpri.sed not to see the captain in liis nsnal j)lace, and soon every 
body was shocked to learn the cause of his absence. 

He liad to break to ])oor Mr. , the news of" his young and 

lovely wife's almost sudden death ! Tlic electric lelegrajih had 
Ijrought rajiidly succeeding accounts, respeciting her from New 
York, the first announcing her sudden and dangerous illness, the 
second to say she was worse, and the third to announce her death. 
This sad news was only brought on board a little hel'orc we start- 
ed, and Captain A was charged with the painful oflieo of 

breaking the heart-racking tidings. As the news of the death and 
illness were bronght at the same time, there had been no previous 
preparation, and the captain vaiidy attempted at first to disguise 
the fatal character of the announcement he had to make. His 
trembling voice, and tell-tale looks betrayed him, and the unftn-tu- 
nate bereaved hn.sband divined at once the Avhole extent of his 
misfortune. 

Captain A told me, afterward, the scene was a most try- 
ing and terrible one. The Avrelched man stood as if petrified with 
liorror, his eyes glaring and gl;j/.ed, and fixed as in a trance. 
After he had stood rooted to tlic spot for some time in agonized 
silence, he repeated the word "dead" in the deej), hollow voice of 
the most jn'oibund despair ; and it was the only word he uttered, 
or sign of life he showed, during the remainder of that day. Nor 
did he move his eyes, that constantly were fixed, with a wild, 
dreadful stare, on vacancy. 

•The captain said it was a most piteous sight to sec, and ho 
hegan to be really alarmed for his reason, when it became appa- 
rent that nothing could rouse him, and he still repeated, as if m<;- 
chanieally, at intervals, " dead I dead !" in the same tone of fro'/eu 
horror. He was not left alone for a single moment, day or night, 
so alarming did his state ajipcar. 

I,* 



250 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

This sad and utterly-unexpected misfortune cast quite a gloom 
over the sliip. Poor man ! he appeared to be a very devoted hus- 
band, and Mr. said he had seen a beautiful miniature of the 

deceased wife, whicli the luihappy man had always carried about 
with him, and that it was the portrait of a very lovely person in- 
deed. But I will not dwell longer on such a melanclioly theme. 

There was on board a very ingenious American — 1 thitdv, but am 
not quite sure, a New Englander — (it is the New Knglanders that 
the Americans themselves call "Yankees"), who made, during the 
voyage, out of a connnon bit of Avood, merely with his pen-knife, 
the most lovely and delicate little wooden chains imaginable, and 
other curiosities requiring the greatest skill and nicely ot" handling. 

There was among the deck passengers an en1er})rising organ- 
grinder, who had resolved on being the pioneer of his ])rofession in 
Mexico, and who expected to " Oh I Susanna-ize" and " Yankee- 
doodle-ize" the whole country. Ilis speculation failed ; and I was 
told he complained bitterly of the lamentable want of love for 
street music in the Mexicans, to which lack, on their part, he 
seemed to attribute the generally revolutionary state of the coun- 
try, and their backwardness in the art of selfgovernment. A 
deliciously hideous monkey accompanied him ; but whether his 
diverting tricks — i'or he had of course, received a distinguished 
education — were equally una])preciated, I know not ; or whether, 
if so, the musical speculator thought this indKierence also helped 
to explain many defects in the working of the Mexican constitu- 
tion, I can not pretend to say. 

We had a rapid rim from Mobile to this place, and arrived hero 
about two hours after noon, in the most brilliant and beautiful 
M'cather imaginable. Every body was on the tiptoe of expecta- 
tion when we passed the handsome lighthouse (La Farola) with 
General O'Donnel's name (under whose administration it was 
built), in immense characters on it. 

The first glimpse of the Havana, from the entrance to the har- 
bor, is remarkably picturesque, beautiful, and striking. The co- 
lossal palm-trees (the magnificent " Palma real") that tower ma- 
jestically in the back-ground on the hills (seeming to gaze down 
like a guard of giants over the splendid city) form a glorious ver- 
dant sort of outer and partial frame-Avork for it, while the eye 
rests with delight on the nearer objects, especially on the crowded 
and beauteous harbor, so covered with shipping from every part 
of the civili/.eil world, with the flags of every nation streaming on 
the soft breeze, and reflected on its calm and silvery waters. 



THE iMORRO CASTLE. 251 



The Morro Castlo is exe,ee(liii<>ly striking and im]>osiiig. This 
strong anil I'ormiilablo fortress is hnilt on tiie solid roeic, and almost 
appears to ibrrn a part of it, so steadfast and endnring seem its 
massive towers and walls and battlementS; looking stern and gloomy 
as an old northern feudal fortress, notwithstanding a few light, 
plmny cocoa-nut palms cast their delicate shadows on the grass- 
covered banks near the stately castle. 

The harbor is one of the very finest in the world, suflieiently 
deep for the largest vessels, and capacious enongli to accommodate 
a fleet of a thousand ships, or more. There is a narrow entrance 
to this splendid harbor (from whose majinificence the city received 
the name of" La Havana" — as the harbor, ]>(ir exceilcnce, I believe 
— and yet I thiidc the ])rcsc/U Spanish word for harbor and iiaven 
is "puerto"). This entrance, indeed, is so narrow that only a 
.single ship can enter at once, and it is fbrtilled the whole length 
with strong works, ])latibrms, and artillery. (Jpposile to the Morro 
Castle there is another fort, called the Puntal. This is connected 
with the city to Ihe north. The Morro is built in a triangular 
form : it is fortified strongly with bastions, and inounted with many 
pieces of cannon, which are almost a, /Ic/'r crcdH. The city itself 
stands on the western side of its noble liarbor, and is extensively 
surrounded by ramparts, bastions, and trenches. Ln addition to 
the fortifications already enumerated, it is surmounted with works, 
which are all of them sujiplicd with a vast profusion of artillery. 
I hear that they have been lately strengthening and improving the 
various l()rmidable fortifications, in anticipation of a threatened 
visit from the Americans. The large fortress, called the Cabanas, 
stands near the Morro Castle, and covers a great deal of ground ; 
numbers of soldiers were seen clambering uyi, or half-sliding down 
its steep sides. 

We found the British steamer, bound for Jamaica, waiting for 
the "Thames." It was nearly evening before we landed, and 
found ourselves in a very comfbrtabh; American hotel, ]ic\)i by 
Mr. Fulton, of New Orleans. We found Mr. Kennedy, who is 
now acting as consul in tRe absence of Mr. CraM'fbrd, obligingly 
waiting to see us. lie told us Lord Durham was here, and very 
ill, having caught a fever at Jamaica ; but Havana itself appears 
to be quite healthy just now. The heat, however, is very great 
and opj)ressive, though we are in one of the coolest and freshest 
houses within the city. We are very near the entrance to the 
harbor, and constantly a delightful refreshing breeze blows on our 
broad balcony, and through the enornious Avindow-gates that open 



252 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

upon it. It is a pretty and interesting sight to watch the ships 
almost constantly entering or leaving the harbor. 

I shall stay here a little while, I think, and see something of 
the Havana, in case any thing should prevent my return here 
after we have left our cards with the Pacific. It is an extraor- 
dinarily gay-looking town. Of course in the heat of the day no 
one thinks of stirring out who can help it. But when it begins to 
be cool, the city seems almost to shake with an earthquake ol" car- 
riages, going in different directions, whose fair occupants are visit- 
paying, shopping, and so forth, usually ending with the j)as,eo ; and 
beautil'ul and fairy-like these carriages mostly are. They are called 
Tolavlcs, and are generally drawn by mules, driven by a postillion 
in some splendid livery. 

We went out the other day, and I went a little way into the 
country — a very pretty drive, indeed. It was along a broad smooth 
road (what a luxury to us, after the road to Mexico !), bordered 
with a lovely hedge of roses and flowering pomegranates in their 
greatest beauty. We then went to the iiasco, where carriages — 
multitudinous as musquitoes in Havana — swarmed in double lines, 
and all seemed like a fairy tale in action. Those graceful, aerial- 
looking, gayly-painted open volantes, like cars fit for Queen Mab, 
and the ethereal-seeming beings within, crowned with flowers, 
with no other covering on their gracious heads than these delicate 
blossoms, and their own massive braids of superb black hair — for 
very seldom did they even wear the mantilla, and when they did, 
its exquisitely-disposed folds seemed little else than the light shadow 
cast by those abundant waves of silky sable locks — all was enchant- 
ment. 

How gracefully waved their fans, with which they fluttered 
light pretty salutations to each other I — those glistening feathery 
fans, like the wings ofsylphides : and their dresses I — surely Arachne 
herself must have spun them, and Iris colored them I I will try 
and paint, in words, three of these fair daughtei's of Cuba, as they 
recline in their luxurious volantes. One is in a dress of the most 
sky-like azure ; another in a diaphanous dreamy sort of robe, of 
the most gossamer texture, and of the softest yet brightest tint of 
rose-color ; and the third (who sits forward in the middle) is in 
spotless lily white: and these dresses float light and full as very 
clouds about them. They are all decolletee, and with very short 
sleeves, and all are .snow-pale, with statuesque features and mag- 
nificent hair. 

There Feem to be hundreds and thousands of those carriages, 



USAGES OF GALLANTRY AT HAVANA. 253 

with equally fair and fairy-like damosch within, and clad in every 
hue of the rainbow — lilac, emerald-green, the faintest strawy-yellow 
(that admirably suits with their generally jet-black locks), and 
various delicate tints and shades of all colors. The carriages 
themselves look like enormous butterflies glittering in the rays of 
the descending sun, with their innumerable, bright, varied colors. 

Then, how beautiful are the long double rows of trees on either 
side of the ixi&'eo, and the flowers, and the exquisite sky above, and 
the splendid fountains, falling into sculptured marble basins ; and 
how charming is the delicious temperature, and the soft breeze from 
the neighboring sea I 

You do not see here, as in Mexico, hundreds of superbly-mounted 
cahallcros, making their steeds champ, and prance, and caracolear, 
till their Aveighty silver ornaments flash like lightning on the eye. 
Hero the gentlemen are generally pedestrian promenaders, if they 
are not lounging, stretched out in their luxurious volantcs them- 
selves. They walk leisurely and gently along, smoking the fragrant 
weed, and gazing at the fair Habaneras who are passing in their 
fairy coracles on wheels ; and they tell me it is the iashion here, 
when a gallant seiior sees some particukrly lovely young dona, for 
him to exclaim — " How beautii'ul — how lovely !" and for her to 
reply, with a slight gracious inclination of her little stag-like head 
— " Gracias, caballero." I was not a little surprised, at first, at 
the answer the ladies make to the universally-employed salutation 
• — " A los pies de V. senorita I" " Besos los manos de V. cabal- 
lero I" (I am at your feet, madam I — I kiss your hands, sir !). 
13ut the dignified gentleness with which they say it, seemed to take 
oil' from the too great condescension apparently expressed. It was 
as superbly gracious as the bending of a crowned head in acknowl- 
edgment of a subject's homage. 

There seems a great deal of alarm just now about the expected 
American invasion. It is rumored — but very likely falsely — that 
some of the troops are disaffected ; and I am told that most of the 
troops sent here are from the dregs of the population in Spain, con- 
victs and marauders of all kinds. The cavalry, however, are said 
to be a very fine body of men : as far as outward appeai-ance goes, 
they all would seem to be so. The foot soldiers strike me as 
being much taller than our infantry regiments, and are exceed- 
ingly clean-looking and well-dressed. 

There are reviews going on almost every day now, and military 
music abounds in Havana : it is rare not to hear the roll of drums 
and the flourish of trumpets. A military band plays every 



254 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



ovi'uiiiii' oil the Grand IM;i7.a. The bost I have lu-ard lirio is, 
1 tliiuk, the Artiik'vy baiul ; but llioy all arc jiood. 

Tlu-y have a hirjio uuinbev ol' troops already in Cuba, and I 
believe they expect more very shortly. Kuinors oC every kind aro 
rile, but one can jilaee no iliith in any of them. I believe only 
that Spain is most sinoerely (kvirons of rotaiiiiii<T this ma^nilieent 
jHissession of" hers — and well she may be. Not only its almo.-:;t 
uneciualed lertility and natural advanlac,es, but its position, remlers 
it a plaee ol' the very lii<iliest eommereial and polltieal importance, 
its situation, commaiidiiiii- the entrance to the Mexican Ciulf, and 
also the communication between Norlli and South America., has 
caused it to be named "'.rhe Queen of the Antilles," "The Senti- 
nel ol" the JMississipjii," "'.I'lio Key of the (.lull';'" and its sjreat 
beauty and luxuriance have actpiired for it the denomination of 
"The iicin of the American Seas." "The IJeaiitiful Antille," 
" The Pearl of the Jshinds," and other admirinii- desiirnations. 

When we first arrived here, how natural seemed the lovinsf 
exclamations and remarks of returnin<;' " llabaneros," who, bend- 
in<>- over the ijuanls of the steamer, uttered ejacnlatory expressions 
of deli<>ht as we neared the enchanting- shores : — "C)I tpie escenas 
Ian hennosas. El cielo sin nubes, y la mar tan serena, y el sol 
tan brilliautc." " Si I y las florestas tan dohciosas I Y esa ver- 
dura eterna do la hermosissima isla." " Mira V. que mnltitnd do 
barcos, ber<rantincs y goletas y iregatas y paquetes y — hombre, 
qui> multitudl" " Si I y mil banderas y banderolas do variados 
colores y de todas las nacioncs I Y quo vista tan hermo.sa ofroco 
la cindad desde el puerto. Mire V.I u fe mia, no so ha visto cosa 
mas bella I" and so on. 

\Vc have been to see the cathedral here, which is extremely 
interesting, iVom being the bnrial-]ilaco of (\)lumbns. Ft is not 
as nuignilicent as the cathedral in JNlcxico, but it is a noble build- 
ing. On the right side of the graiiil altar is an urn, containing 
lluxse ])recious ashes: it is inclosed in the wall. A lino basso- 
n>lievo is placed belbro it. of the bust of that mighty Discoverer. 
This bust is the size of lile, and under it is read the ll>llowing 
inscription; — "O restos e imageii del grande Colon, mil siglos 
durad guardados en la nrna. Y cu la remembrancia de^nuestra 
nacion." There is a sunill, but very interesting and beautiful 
painting opjiosite to the tomb, which is said to represent the Topo 
and the Cardinals of that day, celebrating High mass previous to 
the departure of Columbus from the shores of Spain, on his first 
adventurous and momentous expedition in his humble " caraval." 



FOURTH FUNERAL OF COLUMBUS. 255 



Columbus li;is iK)t Iiiul as imu^li vest oven in the ^ravd as falls 
to the lot ol' most luovtals ; lur liis relics Iiavc; Ijceu rnovdd Iroiu 
tomb lo tomb. Jlo diod in Valladolid, in S[)ain, in tbc year loOO, 
and a tomb was tbero crcoti'd to Jiis memory, and inscribed tbns: 
— "A Castillo y a Leon Nucvo Mundo dio C^olon" (in Spanish 
be is called " ("ristoval Colon"). Tlio pbu^o in ■which the body 
wa.9 deposited was the Convent of San J'VancMSco, in V^alladolid, 
and the funeral ccremoni(!S were celebrated with fireat pomp in 
the parocliial ciiurch of Santa IMaria do la Antifjua ; but in IT) 1 3, 
his remains were removed to tbe convent of Iaih (hicvas, of the 
Carthusians, at Seville, and they W(!re (le|)osited in the chnpel of 
Santa ('bristo. Jt was in tbe year l-'liJC) they were trans])orted to 
llispaniola, and they Avere there inhiuued near the fj;rand altar of 
tbe catbedral of tbe capital cily of San Dominj^o; but tbey wore 
not (b'stined to repose there in uninterrupted peace. After llis- 
paniola was ceded to .l*" ranee in 17'.)fT, the S|tanish pfovernment 
came to tbc resolution of carryinp; ofi' these venerable relics to the 
Island of Cuba ; nor can one led sur])riso at such a determination 
■when reflectinfif on all that Sj)ain owed and still owes to that 
wonderful man. 'J'bey may well feel proud of these precious 
relics, connected — as Washington Irvinp: says, in bis highly inter- 
esting "Lile of Columbus" — "with the most glorious epoch of 
Spanish history." 

ijot mo transcribe a little of his itii])ressive account : — " Accord- 
ingly, on the 20t!i of December 17'.)."), in tbe presence of an august 
assemblage of tbe dignitaries ol' tbe Church, and tbe civil and 
military ollicers, tbe vault was opened beside the; high allarof tho 
catbedral ; within were ibund tbe IVaginents of a leaden collin, a 
riundjcr of hones, and a quantity of moidd, evid(Mitly tbe remains 
of a human body. Tbese were carefully coileclcul and j)ut into a 
case of gilded lead, secured by an iron lock, 'fbe case was en- 
closed in a collin covered with binck velvet, and tbe whole placed 
in a temporary mausoleum. On tbc Ibllowing day there was 
another grand convocation at tbe cathedral, '^riic vigils and 
masses for the dead were chanted, and a iinieral sermon was 
'preacbed by the archbishop. After these solemn ceremonials in 
the cathedral, tbe collin was transported to tbe ship, attended by 
a grand civil, religious, and military procession. The banners 
were covered with crape. There were chants, and respon.ses, and 
discharges of artillery, and the most distinguished persons of the 
several orders took turns to su|)port tbe colhn. 

"Tbe reception of the body at Havana was equally august. 



256 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

There was a splontlid procession of boats to conduct it from the 
ship to the shore. On passiiif'' the vessels of war iu the harbor, 
they all paid the honors due t^ an admiral and captain-general of 
the navy. On arriving at the mole, the remains were met by the 
governor of the island, accompanied by the generals of the military 
staff. They were then conveyed, in the utmost pomp, to the 
cathedral. Masses, and the soleuni ceremonies of the dead were 
])erlbrmcd by the bishop, and the mortal remains of Columbus 
were deposited in the wall ou the right side of the grand altar, 
where they still remain." 

It is hardly ])ossible, I think, to avoid feeling profoundly iul cr- 
ested and aflijcted on looking at the spot, that little spot, where the 
ashes of the mighty man repose who gave tlie vast Avorld of the 
wild liir West to the East; and to the West — Heaven : lor ho 
bade the great Star of the East, the star of holy religion and 
blessed Christianity, to shed its glorious rays on that benighted 
and unconscious West. 

There were but a very few people in the cathedral to disturb or 
distract the deep feeling of reverence with M'hich we regarded tliat 
hallowed tomb. One or two kneeling figures of women, silently 
and fervently prayiug, only added to the solemnity of the scene. 
It is a touching and sweet custom in Cuba for all, without the 
least distinction of color or class, to kneel together on the floor of 
the churches. You will sec a fair sefiora, splendidly dressed, 
kneeling on her jiiece of carpet (carried to the church by her little 
negro jiage), and by her side, perhaps, a negro bends his head, 
grizzled with age, in prayer ; or a negress, attired iu the most 
gaudy colors of scarlet, blue, and yellow, uplifts her jet-black 
hands in silent supplication. 

We have been to see the bishop's palace-gardens, now belonging 
to the Conde de Penalver. The Condc is restoring them to all 
their pristine beauty, ibr they had lately been much neglected. 
There are great numbers of line mangoes here, and pleasant is it 
walking in the shadowy alleys which they form. Tliere are also 
some beauteous bread-fruit trees, whose large and dee])ly indented 
leaves I most ])articularly admire. 

A splendid India-rubber tree attracted our attention much. Mr. 

C (Lord L 's brother), who Avent with us, broke oH' a 

branch, and the litjuid India-rubber oozed out plentifully, and cov- 
ered his hands, sticking his fnigers together in an uncomibrtablc 
fashion, as if be had been washing his hands in a jar of treacle. 

An unti^rtunate crocodile pines iu solitude in these gardens, that 



NARROWNESS OF THE STREETS. 257 

is to say, without any ol'his own kith and kin to soothe his weary 
hours. Various animals — some rare ones — are confined in that 
part of the grounds ; there arc some ornamental pieces of water 
there, covered with splendid lilies of a beautiful rose color ; and the 
glorious cciba, and the fair royal palm of Cuba, stand like rival 
monarchs of the vegetable world. The flowers, of course, were 
almost without number in this beauteous place. 

liesides this delightful possession, the Condc has a splendid liouse 
in the city, in which, I hear, there is a boudoir I'epresenting the 
apartment of a mandarin and mandarincss in far Pekin, which is 
declai'ed to be iii the Clune&e$t taste imaginable, and more Pekinish 
than the Chinese junk itself 

We have seen several traces of the last violent hurricane here. 
The most complete ruin is that of an unfinished opera-house of the 
most magnificent dimensions : it remains there still in its frag- 
mentary state, encumbering the ground, waiting for an enterprising 
speculator to repair the damage and iinish it, or perhaps ibr an- 
other hurricane to act the part of squatter, and make a complete 
clearing. It is a superstition among the more ignoi-ant classes in 
Havana, that in consecpience of turning a church dedicated to San 
Francisco (who, it seems, is the patron saint of hurricanes) into a 
tobacco warehouse or something of that kind, the island will bo 
visited by a succession of hurricanes, the last of which will destroy 
Havana entirely, and sweep it Irom the face of the earth. It is 
said several have already taken place on San Francisco's day. 

The streets are exceedingly narrow here, and the volaniof., with 
their immensely long shafts and enormous wheels, turn in them 
with the greatest dilliculty, but luckily they do not easily overturn. 
In the suburbs the streets are wider. A single volcmLe stopping 
will sometimes block up a whole calle. The calescro is urged, per- 
haps, by some other driver behind to let him pa.ss, but it is not 
always this is conceded by the fair Creoles in the carriage ; at least 
so says La Condesa do Merlin, in her amusing " Viajc k la Ila- 
bana." Often, she tells us, is a feminine voice heard from the 
depths of quitrin or volanLc, crying, " No te muevas, Juan, no te 
muevas por nadio I" 

They keep, in rich families, one volante, at least, constantly 
waiting, all ready, at the door, in case any of the members of the 
family should take a sudden fancy for a little drive; and in many, 
wealthy establishments, each daughfer — nay, each child — has her 
own iHjlante I Among the poorer classes (and poor they must be, 
indeed, if they do not indulge themselves with one carriage at 



258 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



least) it is constantly the custom, from want of tlic necessary space 
and bnildino-, to turn a corner of the drawinj^^-room into a coach- 
house. In i'act, I was told they consider a handsome volant c (and 
ratlier than not have a hand.some one they would half-starve them- 
selves on a little chocolate and a ci<<;arito) a really f>;reat ornament 
to their not otherwise much-furuished rooms. It looks very con- 
spicuous and very stately with its gio;antic wheels, and it is occa- 
sionally used, I am inibrmed, as a sort of elevated and sociable 
arm-chair hy two, or perhaps throe, of the ladies of the house when 
the rooms are particularly lull ; and thus, raised as it Mere on a 
silver embossed throne above their guests, they cliat with them 
condesccndinf>ly, and survey them complacently from an advan- 
tagroous position. 

I have never witnessed this little domestic enthronization my- 
self, but we have irequcntly seen the volanle standing like any 
other piece of I'urniturc iu the drawing-room, as we walked or 
drove hy. It is impo.ssible not to see into their sitting-rooms : they 
are on the ground-lioors. Havana houses are genei"ally extremely 
low — [ suppose on account of the hurricanes — and in the less 
magnilicent mansions such a sight, as I said before, is rpiite common. 

These apartments, iu general, have a great resemblance to each 
other ; large, cool, and with little furniture except a number of 
)-ocking-eliairs, which are called here biilacai^. On these, softly 
})alanciiig themselves back-ward and forward, will be seen usually 
the ladies of the family, their perpetual-motion fans in their Mdiite 
hands — those never-to-be-forgotten or dispensed- with i'ans, which 
they agitate cadrndonamoUe, and with the utmost grace. 

It may perchance be a tcrtiUia that you look uj)ou : the great 
doors are thrown open de par en ixtr. Numerous lights are blaz- 
ing in beautiful candelabras of glass or alabaster ; flowers are pro- 
I'lisely scattered about in lovely va.ses of porcelain and silver, and 
enormous faroU'f, — a species of splendid lantern, which sheds the 
most da/./Jing light — are illuminating the recesses of the spacious 
apartments, and the broad corridors, and large bah^onies, where 
groups of men may be seen talking together, or admiring the beau- 
tiful array oi' ladies seated in the grand uda. 

They seem to have a pleasant custom here of rising from tlie 
dinner-table after the ^cgitndo i^ervicio. And during the time oc- 
cupied in making a complete change of decorations, they take a 
■pasco — a little ])romenade — for a quarter of an hour or some min- 
utes, in the enormous galleries (I'urnished with green jalou^'n's to 
exclude every ray of the sun, and in which, during the hottest sea- 



HAVANA FRUITS AND FLOWERS. 2r,9 

son, Ihoy usually dine) or iu llic boaulifiil gardens under the shadowy 
coolness of the inlerlu("in<^ bowers and avenues. 

On their return to the banquelitig-rooin, they find an immense 
profusion ol" crystal, alabaster, or porcelain vases, and cannUUIas 
(small baskets) ot" silver, loaded with a vast variety of" fruits. 
" Mamcys" which, says Madame de Merlin, are " Alimento de las 
almas bicnaventuradas en los valles del otro mundo, seguu la 
creencia de los habitantes do Haiti," and the " zapatillas suavcs," 
wliich she declares have a "gusto silvestrc." Then there are 
timas — a very handsome fruit of a lovely rose-color, about the size 
of a small pine-ap|)le, the inside of which is excellent, and all of it 
eatable : it looks Hke the most delicate royal ermine — with the 
tiniest little black tags — whipped ermine I — almost beaten to a 
soft creamy froth. This fruit is reckoned remarkably wholesome, 
and is so good that the " almas bicnaventuradas" would do well to 
add it to their oiuiincijii. Then there are guayavuii, and hosts of 
otiiers. 

Besides fruits of almost itmurnerable kinds, and sizes, and shapes, 
there are crowds of light silver dislies, and bandcjaf, or dulcet — 
which mean all kinds of sweets {(lulcca variados has/a lo in/inito) ; 
and the table, the borders of the dishes, even the glasses, are 
wreathed, and covered, and almost biuied in flowers. This change 
is like the work of magic ; the most delicious perfumes chase away 
even the faintest smell of meat, and the eye reposes itself on a 
rainbow-colored wilderness of blossoms mixed with the most tempt- 
ing and the choicest fruits. Knormous doors, or rather puerla- 
vrmlanas (dooi's and windows in one), arc o|)cned on the balconies, 
and gigantic windows besides, perhaps lightly drapericd with 
muslin (and during the day-time shaded with persiamis — Vene- 
tian blinds) to exclude the tropical sun's scorching beams, are 
thrown wide open, and through them the soft zephyr passes, and 
the refreshing, cooling sound an(.l siglit of the glittering fountains. 

The best time for flowers in Cuba is the winter — if winter it 
can be called. They then abound in all their richest beauty, in 
the summer the intense heat of the sun withers them up. 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Performance of a Military Band in the Grand Square — The Diversified 
Company — Description of Havana Niyflits — The Opera-house — The Sing- 
ers — Exhortation to Spanish Ladies to preserve tiieir National Dress — 
An Execution — Material Prosi)erit,y of Havana — " Jesus del Monte" — 
Dinner with the Captain-t.Jeneral — The Company — Escort of the Conde 
— Preparations for the Isthmus Journey — A Tertulia — Miss M 's ex- 
quisite Piayin<v and Sinoiujr — Tlio Juivirons of Havana — The Pasco of 
Ysabel Senunda — lOnvirous of Havana in the PiVeninir — " Cuiaairos'' — 
Description of their Houses — Customs and dress of tiie •'Guayiros" — 
Chinese Laborers in Havana — Anecdote of Chinese Thieves — Preparing 
to depart for Panama. 

We went to hear the miUtary band play last evening in the 
Grand Square : it was a splendid band, and played several opera 
airs beaiitil'iilly. Many ladies were walking tip and down, generally 
attended by cahaUcros ; but the greater ])art of the di&liiignccs 
Habaneras were in their vola/Ucs, each i'air seiiorita looking like 
the Heine des fees, crowned with flowers. The ■mnckedumbre 
(mob or crowd) were standing about, evidently enjoying the music; 
the negroes, and their sable dames and damsels, especially appear 
to delight in it. The whole scene is one ol' great beauty and en- 
chantment : the lovely trees in the Grand Plaza, tlie magnificent 
crystal sun of the night — that crown of glory — (which is so unlike 
that tame somewhat hali-a-crown-like silver lamp, wo call the 
moon, in our little northern nook), the llower- crowned ladies in 
those fairy chariots, sparkling with silver — the splendid liveries of 
the postilhons — the gay military uniforms — the picturesque-looking 
negroes and negresses standing about (or sometimes dancing in 
their glee to the exhilarating tunes that arc played), the negresses 
occasionally in white dresses, scarlet satin shoes, yellow turbans, 
and blue scarfs, and various other such fantastical combinations of 
colors, with their great flaming eyes, d la Jlor dc la cam — all unite 
to form a delightful and singular picture. 

How true is this description of an Havana night by a charming 
writer : " La noche es aqui tan deliciosa ! — que transparencia I que 
grandeza en estc ciclo resplandecienle de estrellas y de meteoros I 
— como penetra en los poros abiertos ])or el calor el so})lo tibio de 
la brisa de ticrra embalsamada con todos los perfumes de la vege- 



THE OPERA-HOUSE. 261 



tacion. El aire fresco de la tarde reernplaza al ealor solbcaiile del 
dia bajo ua cielo Ian claro como si el di^sco de la luiia lo ocupasc 
todo." 

We have been to the opera, whieli is very good here indeed. 

The Tacon Theatre (the Opera-house) is beautiful. Mrs. T , 

with whom I have had the pleasure to make acquaintance here, 
was so good as to invite us to go with her. Her box was an ex- 
cellent one, and we saw and heard to perfljction. The interior 
of this theatre, which is very large, is exquisitely light and grace- 
ful, and beautilVilly decorated : the boxes are only separated by a 
slight railing, and there is another gilded railing in front of them. 
The whole has the most cool, aerial, and brilliant appearance 
imaginable, and reminded me a little of a vast and most magniii- 
cent saloon 1 had seen in one of the palaces of the SuUan at 
Constantinople 

The opera was the " Huguenots ;" it was admirably got up and 
put on. the stage. Steilanoni and Bosio were the chief lemale 
singers, and the men were Salvi and Marini, cVc. >Salvi sang 
quite splendidly. After the opera, tSignora Bosio came on the 
stage, dressed like a " Madrilena" (it was her benefit), and sang 
some Spanish airs exquisitely, in the true piquant Spanish style : 
the songs were internq)ted by spoken remarks, and almost con- 
vulsed the audience with laughter. Among other tilings, she ap- 
peared (in a proiiy j)a/ois) to be recommending the Spanish man- 
tilla and dress to universal use, and to be abusing the French 
fashions most unmercifully, in the drollest and quaintest manner, 
her arms akimbo, and yet looking as graceful as possible. 

And how right the " Madrilena" was I What can be so beau- 
tiful as that loveliest of costumes 1 The Spanish ladies should 
take care what they are doing. If there are to be "no Pyrenees" 
in the matters of dress, will not "the ladies of Spain" lose their 
greatest, most characteristic, and peculiar of charms ? Such a 
macadamization of costumes to one insipid sameness, as seems ever 
to be gaining ground, in defiance of the difierence of climate, cus- 
toms, and other regulating circumstances, will make the world a 
trifle more trite and stupid than it is at present ; but J hope the 
masses will generally have the good sense to retain their beautiful 
old dresses. What an unhilenlional dissertation I " Annotations 
and reflections" on Signora Bosio's lively song ! By the way, 
both at Mexico and here, the mere appearance of the beauteous 
Spanish costume was alone enough to draw fijrth ardent applause! 

The Habaneros seem to form an enthusiastic audience, and lo 



262 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

be possessed of great good taste and discrimination. The fair 
Habaneras look particularly well at the opera : we saw some 
extremely handsome ones, with the whitest of skins, and the 
blackest of hair. In these light gilded boxes they look like hund- 
reds of Peris in magnificent cages, fluttering their lans, as though 
about to escape. This incessant movement of nearly innumerable 
fans makes the vast airy house seem as if it was hovering on ten 
thousand waving wings, and on the point of soaring away to mix 
amonf those glgantescaa tiiibcs (huge clouds) so well described by 
the authoress I liave already quoted, when she says, " Como se 
balancoan en el aire las nubes gigantescas adornadas de opalos y 
de rubies," when from time to time large gauzy splendid luminous 
vapors float on this resplendent atmosphere. 

We drove to the opera, and returned in an open volante (one 

of Mrs. T 's). The air was so deliciously warm, yet fresh 

and not sulibcating, that on coming out of the house it seemed to 
be hotter than it was within. Soldiers are stationed round the 
theatre to keep order, and the crowds of volantcs rush ofi" with the 
utmost regularity. 

There was an execution here the other day. The criminal 
was a Spaniard ; the crane, murder ; and he has confessed, since 
his detection and imprisonment, a large number of assassinations 
that he had committed previously, lie made a public declaration 
before he was garotted, stating that all his wickedness was caused 
by the early desertioii of his parents, and his total want of educa- 
tion. Mr. C went to sec the execution. We passed the 

place by chance where it was to take place, the evening before, 
and there was already a large throng of persons collected to see 
the dreadful spectacle ; so they seem as Ibnd of such horrors in 
this land of flowers and sunshine, as the citizens of smoky, dusky 
London. 

Havana is brilliantly lighted with gas : when there is a moon, 
however, the gas is not lighted, as it would be indeed quite a 
work of supererogation. There are American omnibuses that run 
regularly to the Cerro, and the other suburbs. The Americans 
(they tell me) take the lead always in commencing these improve- 
ments, and after behig for a while in leading strings under their 
tuition, the citizens of Havana take the management of these 
affairs into their own hands. 

No city can avcU give one an idea of greater material prosperity 
than the Havana. The numbers of beautiful shops, teeming with 
every article of luxury, grace, and convenience ; the magnificent 



DINNER WITH THE CAPTAIN-GENERAL. 203 

palaces and quintas (country houses) in the neigliborhood ; the 
splendor and opulence visible on all sides ; the brilliancy and cost- 
liness ol' the countless thousands of equipages, hurrying; hither and 
thither on errands of pleasure and business — all make this appear, 
as I believe it is, one of the most flourishing and wealthy cities in 
the world. 

As to the carriages they seem literally running over one an- 
other. I have before said that I had heard every daughter in a 
rich family has her own special volanta, and 1 .see this is more 
than corroborated by the Condesa de Merlin. She says, " acqui 
cada individuo de la familia hasta los nines, tiene su volanta." 

We went up to Jesus del Monte, the other day, to see Miss 

Inglis, sister of Madame C. de la B . She appears to be a 

charming person, and is much liked and admired here : her blonde 
chevdure and blue eyes, make her a great contrast to the dark- 
eyed Habaneras in general. She is staying with a cousin at Jesus 
del Monte (it is a sort of suburb of Havana, and is situated on a 
height, with beautiful views and cool country air). They have 
a delightful house there, and it is an easy distance from the cap- 
ital. The road to and from this place is lovely, bordered on each 
side with ro.ses and pomegranates. 

We dined with the Caj)tain-General and the Condesa de Ahtoy, 

the other night. With the exception of Mr. K , the judge, 

and Mr. C , the guests were all Spanish and llabane.se. The 

Conde speaks French fluently, but the Condesa and her daughter 
know no language but Spanish ; so I was obliged to talk Spanish 
as well as I. could, which is very indilierently indeed. The ban- 
quet was very splendid. 

The palace is magnificent. There is a large full-length portrait 
of (^Lieen Ysabel Segunda, in one of the enormous lofty rooms, 
which represents her as very interesting-looking and pretty : the 
Condesa says she is exceedingly improved in looks lately. During 
the dinner an immense number of slaves waited behind the guests' 
chairs (here they did not rise between the courses, as we are told 
they do in Creole families) ; and when the dessert was over, 
all rose at once, and repaired to the large balconied drawing- 
rooms for chocolate and cofiee. Behind her chair, at dinner, the 
Condesa had a little Chinese page-in-waiting, attired in the com- 
plete dress of the scorners of outer barbarians. This costume was 
made of the richest materials, and looked extremely handsome. 

After dinner, a kind of reception, or IcrLulia, took place. TIio 
ladies were all ranged in a formal semicircle. 1 sate next to the 



264 TRAVELS IN A.MERICA. 

Condesa ; and a French lady, who could not speak a syllable of 
Spanish, sale on the other side of her. However, the Conde and 
some of the gentlemen who spoke French, conversed with her, and 
the evening passed away very pleasantly altogether. 

We returned home, as usual, in an open vulanta, after staying 
a little while in the Grand Plaza, to hear the band. When the 
Conde drives out, it is always with a gallant escort of lancers. 
He has an open carriage that looks like one of Parisian manu- 
facture, and the Condesa and Mademoiselle de Roncali always 
appear in bonnets that seem fresh from Paris, thus discarding the 
beantilbl Spanish mantiUa entirely. 

' General C , the American Consul here — a very gentleman- 
like and distinguished person, whose acquaintance 1 have lately 
made — has kindly oHered to arrange about my passage for me, 
and I am busily preparing for our Isthmus journey. We hi^ve to 
take provisions, get riding-dresses, &c., and as the steamer stays 
a very short time M'hen she does arrive, it is necessary that we 
should be quite ready.' 

To-day it is very hot, and the least exertion fatigues one ; not- 
withstanding, there is a charming "breeze from the sea, and this 
hotel is in a very cool situation. I can not describe how enehant- 
ingly cool the palace is : with its enormous galleries and corridors 
of white luarble, and immense halls and s«/rt.s-, I shoulil think they 
-.GOuld never find it too hot there. In the hottest day it must be 
like those ice-cai'cs where Winter reigns, while Summer is.^pvel- 
ing in all her splendor within a few feet of him. I was so sorry 
when I heard, after we had left New Haven, that one of these 
extraordinary caves is to bo seen very near that city. There is 
another, I believe, in Georgia. 

We have been to a little tertulia at Mr.s. M 's. The 

flowers there were inexpressibly delicious and lovely, and so was 
the music. I never heard such magnilicent playing on the piano- 
forte but once, as Miss M 's. Her execution is perfectly 

prodigious ; but in addition to that she seems to have a soul at 
every one of her faigers' ends — and a seraph's soul to boot. The 
strength and power with which she touches the instrument is 
wonderful. The whole performance indeed is quite magical, and 
when one looks at the delicate, svelte, sylph-like ligure of the young 
lady, you can hardly believe it was she who called forth the 
volume of sound that you heard. 

Miss M sang a French song afterward, beantilully : but, 

in consequeuco of a delicacy of chest, from over-exertion of the 







I'ASEO OF YSA^EK SEGUNDA. 2C5 

voice in practicing, she is not allowed to sing often, and qnlj' songs 
that do not try the voice much. The exquisite feeling, grace,' and 
marvelous delicacy of execution with which she sang th;it lillli". 
~~''7^Trrmnz(/,, made one regret decjjly that imperious necessity fui'cJoil 
her to abstain from further exercise of her charming vocal puwws. 

JJiligs M speaks but little English, and that 'with a pr(gtoj 

■ jSi^ch- accent, though her i'ather is English. Her mothervis 
'Trench. I believe, Irom living at Havana, she speaks Spanish 
like a native. 

In the large Creole houses here, that 1 have seen, I observe in 
the chief .sa/a a sort of canopy over a sofa at the head of the room, 
where the mi.stress of the house sits with perhaps one or two 
distinguished guests. The rest are seated on chairs, cither in a 
semi-circle, or in a double line, like a living himian avenue. 

Wo had a delightful drive the other day in the environs of 

Havana. We first went to see Mrs. C , the lady of tho 

American Consul. Their house is large, and very pleasant ; the 
marble floors, with here and there a pretty mat, look charmingly 
coo). We then went to see diflerent views of the city, which are 
all beautiful. We drove tlirough the lovely Pasco dc Tacon, and 
admired its immense length, and splendid fountains, and statues. 

The Paseo of Ysabel Segunda, is also a very charming one ; 
and ladies and children are sometimes seen promenading under its 
umbrageous and llower-bespritdtled alleys, which is rare in Havana, 
for hardly ever does a serlora's foot — the lovely Spanish " foot of 
fire" — touch the earth in this be-carriaged and luxurious place. 
The diflerent roads around the capital, in the evening, are gener- 
ally alive with people hurrying on business, or driving leisurely 
and loungingly along, enjoying the dolce far nicntc, which is in- 
deed to be indulged in to perfection at the Havana. Now you 
meet a quUrin or volanta, or two and three together, filled with 
ladies, and now a kacendado (planter) returning from his estate, 
perhaps, near the capital, ciganto in rnoulh, and looking as if life 
was as full of sweets for him as his land is of sugar ; and now it 
is a knot of guai^iros, or munteros, coming on some errand to the 
city or the suburbs. These arc a peculiar race in Cuba, and it 
is said, retain many of the distinguishing characteristics of the 
ancient Indian race, to whom Cuba once belonged. His humble 
but picturesque house is probably exactly what, in former tiuies, 
was that of the aborigines. Light trees of the same height are 
driven fast into the ground, and form a perfect square. .But the 
following description is excellent : " Y formando lui quadrado 

IM 



266 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

perfecto sustentan por su extremidad una especie de red de 
bambues que colocados transversalmeiite creceii y son atados a los 
arboles con lianas o enredaderas, el techo se cubre con hojas de 
palmera, y se llama guano." 

These palm-leaf-covered roofs are very light and cool, and they 
look truly graceful. For the work of building this primitive 
habitation, the guagiros call in' the assistance of their neighbors, 
as they do in erecting the log -houses in Canada (which they call 
summoning a bee) in a day at the longest : it is done with the 
help of the vecinos. They then have a rude house-warming 
(which sounds terrible, however, in Cuba!) A sucking-pig is 
cooked, and the feast is devoured right merrily. 

Afterward, " forman por medio de tabiques" (these light thin 
walls are formed of canes), " tres habitaciones iguales, la de en 
medio es la sala en las otros dos, duerme la familia. Los tabiques 
se cubren de corleza de palmera, que destinada a este uso, toma el 
nombre de yagua.'' The house is finished entirely in two or 
three days. There are two iniertas, but no windows. These 
j)uertas are also formed of the bark of the palm trees, yagua. 
" Y," continues the account, " no estan unidas al edificio sino por 
la parte superior, de manera que se abren perpendicularmente, y 
permanecen suspendidas por medio de una vara de hierro que las 
sostiene en el aire durante el dia." At night this bar of iron 
serves to fasten the doors with. 

Generally, in front of this picturesque and rural abode there is 
another cabana, of two departments, one of which is used as a 
kennel and stable during the continuance of the rainy season, and 
the other is the kitchen — a very simple one. If you go in you 
will see a confusion indeed, " en el fondo de la cocina y puestas 
junto a la pared, estan colocados tres enormes piedras que sirven 
de hornillas encima una olla — y alrededor del fuego bananas 
buniatos y papas en profusion." Besides, there are chairs, stools, 
cups of the humblest materials, earthen dishes, dogs, birds, 
chickens, people reposing on the rough table or floor, birds'-nests 
full of eggs depending from the bamboos, and a tremendous mas- 
tifi^ that growls frightfully, and shows his teeth threateningly, if a 
leaf falls. 

This rural lodge is surrovuided by magnificent trees which a 
king might envy, loaded with the most exquisite fruits, some of 
enormous size — the jxcpayo and platano — with their huge leaves, 
the alcavforero, and the beautiful arbol del 2x111, that might feed 
a whole regiment in a time of farninc ; the odojiierous vanilla, 



GUAGIROS. 267 



and thousands of cactuses in flower, coiled and enlazados gradosa- 
menie with a profusion of hanging plants, that unite the roofs of 
the caba?ias with the stately trees, and shut out the piercino- ravs 
01 the dazzling sun. o j 

These cstablccimienlos de los guagiros are not ordinarily destined 
lor a long continuance. They frequently abandon the spot they 
had thus selected, and transport then pniates to some other place 
liiey again construct a rude but graceful habitation in a few days • 
y siembmn eri seguida las legumbres ; and wherever they fix 
themselves they find the same marvelous riches of Nature ready 
to surround and adorn their homes. However simple their 
cabanas may be, the entourage is worthy of an imperial palace 

sometimes the guagvro takes a piece of ground that belono-s to 
nobody, and in general he prefers this; but if he is particularly 
pleased with a bit of land that already has a dueno (a master) 
conditions are then entered into, as in Europe. I should think 
however, he naust have less and less opportunities of doing this iu 
this highly cultivated and flourishing island. The cosechas (crops) 
are wonderfully abundant, and, with very little care, this fertile 
soil will produce muchas coseclms in the year. The beasts in 
Cuba are generally fed on maloja (I think this is exactly the 
same as Guina-grass), and on maize ; and the guagiros generally 
provide this lor the great proprietors and planters. 

The wives and daughters of the guagiros make "sombreros de 
paja y de las cucrdas de majagua," and this ferms their chief or 
only occupation. They have always a slave, however moderate 
may be their means, to do all the household work They «av 
these guagiros are very chivalrous husbands, and may often "be 
seen carrying themselves the tapete (small square carpet) to 
church, fer their wives to kneel upon. 

The giiagiro is quite a dandy with regard to his appearance 
His mornings are generally passed at the cock-fights— which are 
as popular here almost as in Mexico— and his evenings in dancin- 
or smging to his guitar, if unmarried, generally befere the estancico 
l"sJady-love. He is, in his own way, a poet and a hero too • 
and li by chance he should encounter a rival gicitarrcro, sinr^ino- 
sonnets to his qiierida, a duel with their knives, takes place oirthc 
spot H he receives a wound, he springs on his gallant horse, and 
darts through the canaverales (the cane-plantations), and hurries 
away to seek a chirurgeon, that he may appear next day at the ac- 
customed spot again, to defy his rival, and prance and caracolear, 
guitar m hand, before his amada. 



268 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

The cored has his bridle generally adorned with nunnerous knots 
of bright-colored wool, and the fruntil has the same ornaments. 
He himself has a sombrero de paja, with an immense brim. A 
brilliantly-colored scarf is tied round his waist, with the ends Heat- 
ing, zapato& dc tafdctc (morocco leather shoes) of some gay color, 
with silver spurs : Irom his beautifully-embroidered cinturon 
(belt) hangs his mavUcte, with a silver hilt encrusted with precious 
stones, and there, too, is his dagger with its ebony handle. Wheii 
on business he is not ashamed to carry a sack i'astened to his shoul- 
ders, and when on a pleasure-excursion, on the saddle of the 
horse you may spy the guitarra and the qicitasal of his fair seno- 
rita, the amiable gtcagira. 

On his business-expeditions he goes from place to place, to Inge- 
nio and Cafetal, to sell his fruits and collect his money. Then 
he returns to eat an excellent dinner, and to smoke the most ex- 
quisite " cigarros elaborados por so mujer 6 por su querida. His 
horse and his maclicte (after the qiicrida and miijer, we will 
hope) are his greatest treasures. The nuichcle is not only an in- 
dispensable weapon of defense against robbers, rivals, &c., but is 
the article in which he exhibits his chief luxury and spleudor, and 
his cored is also very necessary to him in this vlda vagabunda in 
which he delights, and is oftea an object almost of adoration to 
him. But the reader will be tired oi guagiros. 

There are many Chinese laborers here now, and they are said 
to work very hard and well. Why do they not try them in Ja- 
maica ? It is said the Coolies have failed there. I was amused 

at an anecdote concerning the Chinese, that Captain A , told 

me the other day. It occurred Avheu he was on the coast of China 
in a merchantman — I think at Canton. The ship was constantly 
robbed at night, by very expert — not house-breakers, certainly, but 
ship-breakers, I must call them. The weather was exceedingly hot 
and close, and it was necessary to leave the port-holes open ibr air. 
The cunning Chinese ludroncs availed themselves of this circum- 
stance, and introduced themselves into the apertures by night, 
very adroitly and silently. Their toilet, it appears, was of the 
most primitive possible description, and consisted wholly and solely 
of a copious supply of oil to lubricate their bodies. They thus 
made themselves as slippery as eels, and if detected, eluded the 
grasp of the victimized mariners, and plunged back into the M'atcr. 
Their long tails (which would otherwise have alibrded capital 
handles) were abundantly provided willi fish-hooks, sharp knives, 
pins, nails, &c. — in short they were made quite a chevaux clef rise 



CHINESE THIEVES. 269 



ill order that any one seizing them should rapidly lot them go 
again. 

One of those sliarp sliar^icrs paid a visit one night to the cahin 
of a young officer, who woke, and despite of oil and fish-hooks, 
took a good gripe at the interloper and held on like grim death 
with one hand, while with the other, armed with a stout cutlass, 
or some weapon of the kind, he actually inffictcd the grim death 
aforesaid on the rascally son of the flowery central land, who thus 
like a celestial Paul Pry, had dropped in literally in the cool of 
the evening. The ofllccr flung the body into the sea, and it was 
found afterward by the indignant Chinese, and a mighty hubbub 
was raised. It was discovered by some means, or at any rate 
shrewdly suspected, that the act had been committed on board the 
merchant ship, and the mandarins insisted that the ofiender should 
be given up to them. It happened that the butcher of the ship, 
at this jimcture, committed suicide. They bethought themselves 
of dressing him up in the officer's clothes, and formally exhibited 
the body to the mandarins, who were invited on board — peacock- 
feathers, buttons, and all. The mandarins were informed that the 
unfortunate officer, struck with remorse, had put an end to his ex- 
istence. But our good friend, John Chinaman, was not to be thus 
easily imposed upon. He declined putting any faith in the outer 
barbarians' bare assertiorls, and proceeded to examine the corpse. 
Immediately that the mandarins noticed the hands of the deceased 
Knight of the Cleaver, they exclaimed that those were not the 
hands of an officer, and demanded that the real offender should be 
forthwith produced. With great difficulty the young man was se- 
creted, and his life preserved from the vengeance of the Celestials. 

I intend to leave a trunk here, with all the things I set most 
value on, for fear of accidents on the Isthmus, and to take as little 
luggage as possible, as on such expeditions it is very inconvenient : 
" Ojala hubiesc cmpezado antes esta reformu." There is a report 
that the " Georgia" is in sight. I shall not see much of the Ha- 
vana this time,' but I hope to visit it again on my return ; it is so 
interesting and beautiful an island. 

I must go and take leave of my American acquaintance, Mrs. 

. She is going with her husband and little girl back to the 

United States. They have taken passages on board the " Ysabel 
Segunda," and they fear she will be very crowded, as they find 
the Italian operatic company are going by the same steamer, on 
their way to New York, where they are going to perform. Mrs. 
is in very delicate health, suffering from that fell disorder, so 



270 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



common iti the Uuitod Slates, consumption. She came to Ha- 
vana hy medical advice, and great numbers of Americans come 
here annually on the same account. I hear that many go also to 

Jamaica and to Santa Cruz. Mrs. W , another American 

lady who was staying at this hotel, and with whom I have become 
acquainted, is just gone to make a tour of the island. She sings 
beautifully, and her little daughter is extraordinarily handsome ; 
she has lived a great deal in Europe, chiefly in Italy. 1 have 
heard since her departure, that she is anxious to introduce some 
improvements in the railroads here, which are of licr oioi inven- 
tion. 

The " Georgia" has arrived. We shall have but little time 
now to make any further preparations. Timto mcjor, for as long 
as one has time one iiincies something may be better arranged, or 

is requisite. General C has kindly called to tell me he is 

going on board the " Georgia'' this morning, and will do all he 
can to arrange for us to go, but she is expected to be very full. 
She is a magnificent vessel of about three thousand tons. 

When these enormous American steamers first came to Havana, 
there was a report that it was doubtful whether they could get in 
through the narrow entrance to the harbor ; however, that was 
found to be of easy accomplishment. The " Gecrgia" is said to 
be a very fast vessel, with excellent accommodations, and a most 
gentlemanlike captain. We take leave of this delightful hotel 
with regret. Mr. Fulton, the excellent proprietor, has spared no 
pains to render us as comfortable as possible. Chloe is very un- 
happy to part with the " lilly missy," as she calls her in her broken. 
English, and her picturesque jet black daughter (a girl of about 

fourteen), Avliose name is " Lily," is very sorry, too, for V 

and she were great friends, and equally devoted to a huge and 
A'ery magnificent macaw (which, however, I think is more like 
Madame Calderon s description of the Huacamaya than a macaw). 
This sploiulid creature Lily is constantly seen carrying on the top 
of her sable woolly head, like a most stately and dazzling helmet : 
a very uncomfortable head-dress, I should think, inasmuch as it 
was perpetually biting at her wool (that did not matter, it was so 
thick), but her forehead came in sometimes for a snap ; and then 
the cap did not fit, and occasionally the creature half fell, and 
struggled on again with many flutteriiigs and clawings — but Lily 
only lausrhed the more, and showed her lightning-like white teeth. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Arrival at Panama — Tho "Georoia" — Kindness anil Attention of Lieu- 
tenant Porter — Deticiency ol' Fresh Water — An Alarm on Board — Its 
Cause — Bustle ol' Preparation to land at Cliaj^res — Tho stout Lady and 
her Trunk — Arrival at Chayres — Polished ^lan^ers ol' American (jlon- 
tlemcn — Tlie Bar of Cha<;res — Dillieulty of landing and of proourino' 

Lodgings — A]iartments at Senor 's — (General Aspect of ('ha<ires — 

Tho Castle of San Lorenzo — Its present Condition — Population of Cha- 
grcs — Adventurers to California — Start for Gorgona. 

Wk have arrived at Panama in perfect safety, and the glorious 
Pacific, that mightiest worhl of waters, is at this moment rolling- 
its majestic waves under my windows as 1 write. I must give an 
account, as well as 1 can, of our voyage and journey. 

Through General C 's kind ollices every thing was most 

coraiortably and delightfully arranged lor us on board the mag- 
nilicent .steamer " Georgia," and through his considerate attcntiou 
and kindness I had also the advantage and comfort of an agree- 
able acquaintance Avith an amiable American lady on board, who 
was going with her little boy to join her husband in Calilbrnia. 

This steamer is commanded by an officer of the United States 
navy. Lieutenant Porter, son of the celebrated Commodore Por- 
ter. It is impossible any where to meet with a more perfect, high- 
bred, and finished gentlemen than Lieutenant Porter. He seem- 
ed indefatigable in his kind endeavors to render the passengers 
coml'ortable, and his courteous attentions to all could not be too 
highly praised. There was an immense number of passengers 
altogether, chiefly deck passengers, ai ronie to Calilornia (report 
.said thirteen hundred, but I believe that was a little exaggera- 
tion), and yet every thing was conductetl with as much order and 
regularity, and the ship mms as perfectly quiet as if there had only 
been thirty. Our cabins were large, and exceedingly connnodious 
and particularly nicely iurnished. Muslins embroidered witli dif- 
i(.'rent rich patterns and colors, formed the blinds and curtains to 
the berth ; they had a very cool and pretty eilect. There were 
also green jalousies to the windows. We had a capital Welsh 
stewardess, a most civil and attentive one ; and the steward was 
the very person for that arduous office. 

The first day we dined in the saloon; but it was very hot, iix 



272 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

consequence of its being necessary to have lighted candles there, 
even in the broadest day-light. The rest -of the time we dined in 
our cabins, where it was very pleasantly cool, considering the state 

of the atmosphere. An acquaintance of jMrs. H , a very stout 

lady, seemed to suffer much from the heat of the weather, but did 
not appear to become in the least thinner in consequence ; and yet 
she seemed to live only on air, and that air was only what her 
fan procured for her. She was a very good-humored and pleasing 
person ; and must be one of great energy and resolution, for she is 
on her way to California, having determined on going there, and 
making a fortune for her grand-children — so she told my maid. 
Though very stout indeed, I should not have thought her old 
enough to have such relatives ; but I am sure they ought to be 
both proud of, and grateful to their enterprising and go-ahead 
grandmamma. I think I never saw a more benevolent and ami- 
able countenance. 

We had an excellent voyage to Chagres ; the only drawback 
was a short supply of water. The captain had waited a long 
time at Havana for an additional provision, but from some dilato- 
riness or neglect of the natives, it came not, and he was obliged to 
start without it. Sea-water and soap go very ill together. How 
would the reader like to cleanse his face by rubbing it against a 
grindstone ? I think the salt-water and soap seem pretty nearly 
as rough. It is still more disagreeable to rinse the mouth with it ; 
but those were very trifling disagreeables, and of little moment. 

Our voyage otherwise was uninterruptedly agreeable, except 
one little alarm which, perhaps, may amuse the reader, and I will 
repeat it for his edification. A day or two before we arrived at 
Chagres, there had been a little excitement among the deck-pas- 
sengers — M'e were told, in consequence of one of them losing some 
money, and I believe his watch. Suspicion fell upon one of his 
companions. They were all going to California, M'here from the 
mixed state of society, the vast assemblage of people from all parts 
of the world, and the not yet thoroughly organized system of gov- 
ernment at the mines, &c., the most uncompromising severity, and 
rigid laws against all similar offenders were rendered necessary. 
There had been threats muttered of Lynch law, we were told, 
but I did not place much reliance on these reports, as the passen- 
gers seemed so well-disposed, respectable, and orderly a set of per- 
sons. This little anecdote will partly show how philosophically 
Americans will sometimes take matters where their interference 
would be utterly useless and hopeless. 



ALARM ON BOARD. 273 

At the dead of night (an ominous beginning I) I was awakened 
by an immense noise on deck, like a fiuioiis stamping and pushing, 
and as I fancied, shrieks and expostulations. On the promenade 
that goes all round the ship, several mattresses were placed every 
night for the accommodation of some of the passengers, for whom 
there was no room elsewhere. The night was sufibcatingly hot, 
and the cabin-windows were partially opened so as to allow a pas- 
sage to the outward air through the closed blinds. As I have 
very quick ears, and the alarm made one more than usual on the 
qifi vivc, I heard one of the passengers call out to another some- 
thing like this : 

" What in thunder's the matter up there, sir ? — do you hear 
that infernal noise ?" 

" Yes, sir ; — guess they're throwing that man overboard they 
talked of lynching to-day." 

" Wal, sir. I do suppose that '11 be it." 

" Yes, sir." 

" Good-night, sir I" 

" Good-night to you, sir I" 

For my part I felt pretty sure all was over, for the tremendous 
scrambling and struggling and yelling had suddenly ceased. No 
doubt the poor victim, maddened and desperate, had fought like a 
demon for life for a brief while, but overpowered by numbers, had 
been plunged into a Avatery grave. 

1 rushed into the cabin where the two maids slept, anxious to 
impart the dreadful news, and horrify tJievi at least. I found 
them already listening horror-struck, to the noise, and in great 
fear that the terrible event alluded to had happened. Presently, 
in the now deep stillness, I heard a loud pattering of rain, it came 
louder and louder, and there was another (though not so violent) 
rush and struggle on deck. I then almost instantly guessed what 
the real state of the case was. A shower of rain had come on sud- 
deidy, and all had been hurrying for shelter, and trying to shield 
themselves in various ways from its pitiless pouring. This, in 
I'act, was the real truth, thank Heaven I and I do not think the 
idea of lynching had ever been seriously entertained. 

A little while before we arrived at Chagres, the bustle and 
stir in the ship were prodigious ; and I am sorry to say, the cap- 
tain was taken very ill, and was confined to his cabin part of the 
day. At last Chagres came in view, and before long, the hubbub 
in the steamer became more " fast and furious." Every body 
wanted their trunks and portmanteaus, and every body in their 



274 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

hurry, got hold of some body else's. My poor stout friend, who 
seemed in the greatest and most imminent danger of melting away 
altogether in the heat, and whom I shall call Arethusa, Avas 
mi/tus a large trunk, M'hich seemed to be all the world to her. Her 
patience and good-humor were inexhaustible, but she was evident- 
ly in deep perturbation about it. She described it in a panting, 
breathless "hue and cry," de vive voix — "it might be known 
among a million ;" it was a veteran trunk, covered with conspic- 
uous scars, each well patched over with tin ; its shape and size, 
too, were particular. Every sort and kind of trunk, case, box, &c. 
came up but that. Every body seemed to feel for, and with her, 
she was s» good-natured, gentle, and amiable. 

The poor lady fanned away, almost frowned, and watched that 
yawning grave, the hold, disgorge from its capacious maw, legions 
of boxes, cliests, and packing-cases, till even half a forest of trees 
appeared to view — an American Birnam wood on the route to 
California. (Perhaps the transplanter imagines that these trees 
in their new soil, will produce fruits of gold, and that he will have 
a true Hesperides there). The anxious Arethusa, almost in de- 
spair, called " Hold, enough I" At last there were some tidings of 
the missing trunk having been seen somewhere, and the J)oor 
lady breathed again — by the help of her faithful fan. 

The rush into the diiferent boats, canoes, and dug-outs that 
were ready to convey passengers to the shore, which was about a 
mile ofl' was tremendous ; each was anxious to get the first canoe 
at reasonable prices, and for a short time, the scene beggared all 
description. We looked on at the little civil war that was raging, 
in peace, from our cabin windows, and I was very glad to take the 
advice the captain sent me, to remain quietly till the afternoon, 
when the bustle and confusion would be over. I had a letter from 

Messrs. at Havana, to Seoiir , requesting him to see 

that every thing was arranged satisfactorily for us, and to engage 

a canoe for us, &c. Mrs. H d -was so kind as to take charge 

of this note for me, and as without loss of time she had gone on 
shore with her friends, I had no fear but that we should have a 
good canoe secured for us. 

In the afternoon the captain was good enough, ill as he was, to 
come to the ladies' saloon to take leave of us, and give us all the 
advice he could respecting the journey across the Isthmus, M'hich 
he was well acquainted with, having very lately gone over it. It 
is impossible for any one to have been more courteous and obliging 
than the distinguished commander of that leviathan steamer was, 



THE BAR OF CIIAGRES. 275 

and his counsel was invaluable to us. lie took care that we 
should have a most coinniodious and safe boat to take us on shore, 
and sent an ofilcer with us, to see us established in comfortable 
quarters, till the canoe should be ready, on the Ibllowing morning, 
to proceed with us to Gorgona or Cruces. 

Truly grateful for all his solicitude and attention, we took 
leave of him with the most sincere wishes for his restoration to 
health. I have before this been convinced, that no manners ou 
earth can be more thoroushly distinguished, noble, and gracefully 
])olished than those of a high-bred American gentleman ; nay, 1 
doubt vvliethcr any can quite equal them, except some of our own 
gentlemen — it is the truth, and therefore I will say it. 1 never 
saw a truer exemplilieation of this, than in the gentleman I have 
just spoken of 

There is no shelter at Chagres whatever for ships, and when 
the sea is at all agitated, the communication with the shore must 
be exceedingly difficult and perilous : there is an extremely danger- 
ous bar with but little depth of water. 

Our boat rejoiced in the name of " Jenny Lind," and the pro- 
prietor of it, an American, Captain Taylor, who is settled at 
Chagres, and owns a goodly number of boats, which ply on the 
river Chagres, and who seemed well-known to the officer of the 
" Georgia," who was with us, told me he was a relation of General 
Taylor, and that he had served through the whole of the Mexican 
war. When he found we had lately been in Mexico, he asked 
many questions with great interest respecting the present slate of 
the country, and was anxious to know if we had seen different 
battle-fields in which he had borne part, and suffered, and which 
he commented on with much animation. 

When we reached the landing-place, we found it a matter of 
difficulty to transfer ourselves from the boat to the shore : there 
was a huge quantity of slimy alluvial mud to be traversed, with 
nothing but the rudest and most distant apology for a wooden pier, 
consisting of a few half-rotten plaidis laid on some slakes. It was 
not without some exertion that we scrambled on to the solid 
ground. 

Mr. then accompanied us to the abode of Senor , as 

I was anxious to know if the letter had been received, and a 

caijuca secured. Sehor was away, " up on the hill," said 

some of the retainers, with the characteristic laziness and noncha- 
lance of the natives. When would he be back ? " Quien sabe V 
At length, however, we found a more intelligent Grenadian, who 



276 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

told us the letter had heen received at the house, in the absence 

of Sefior I\ , agejit for the lloyal JMail Steam Company, and 

that it was awaiting his return, M'hich would probably take place 
very soon. This civilized being tlien begged we would accept a 
scat while measures were taken for securing us a comfortable 
domicile for the night. 

The officer of the " Georgia," whom I before mentioned, imme- 
diately went over to what is called the American town, where 
almost all the Americans take up their abode, and where, I hear, 
there are some very fair hotels (one called the " Crescent City 
Hotel") but before long he returned, and strongly recommended 
us to remain in the native town, as, contrary to expectation, many 
of the lately arrived travelers, having been totally unable to provide 
themselves with cayuco.s, in consequence of the immense demand, 
were imperatively compelled to wait till the morning's daAvn at 
Chagres. All the best accommodations were consequently engaged. 

In the mean time, Senor returned from his excursion, and 

after reading the letter from Havana, entreated us to remain there, 
instead of attempting to go to the American town, and it was 
fnially arranged we should do so. A capital room was given us, 
and one for the two maids close by : we had our own provisions, 
and therefore required but very little. Our apartment was charm- 
ingly cool. We had to ascend by a ladder to it ; but once there, 
it was very pleasant : two large windows without glass, but with 
shutters, admitted a delightful current of fresh air. This large 
airy apartment was open to the roof, which towered at a great 
height above us, and there was on one side only a sort of high 
parapet wall. Ours seemed to be the only room on that floor ; we 
had thus the view of the whole of the enormous and lofty thatched 
roof, and if Ave leaned over the wooden parapet, that of an immense 
space, something like a great warehouse, filled with a heterogeneous 
assemblage of countless articles, while on a sort of gallery inside, 
that ran partly round the walls, Avere festooned strings of onions, 
whose fragrance would have been rather overpowering to our 
olfactory nerves, but for the quantity of fresh air that circulated 
through the large rambling building. 

By the way, Seiior told me a dreadful fire had lately con- 
sumed a fine house he possessed here, and which he had occupied 
only a short time previous to our visit. We saw from our windows 
the blackened remains of this mansion, Avhich had all the appear- 
ance of having been very extensive, and part of the crowded heaps 
that encumbered the clay floor of the building we were in, was 



APARTMENTS AT SENOR 'S 277 

the rescued but injured furniture belonging to it. Sciior told 

us he had quite lately also lost his father, and a child, and that his 
wife was ill. Under these circumstances I felt loth to stay, but ho 
insisted on our so doing. 

There were two little couch-like beds in our handsome loft, with 
pretty pillows covered with muslin, and trimmed with lace : some 
very good-natured smiling mahogany-colored damsels came to ofier 
their services. I thought they were domestics belonging to tho 
establishment, but Ibuud afterward they were relations of either 

Senor or Senora Jl . They took our chocolate to prepare, and 

soon returned with cups, &c., and the chocolate hot and ibaming, 
of which we partook, and in a little while wc went to rest. 

I have as yet said nothing of the appearance of this much-vitu- 
perated, and I think often misrepresented place. Of course tho 
ground is low, immediately on the river ; but at a little distance 
beyond, it gradually rises till it presents the appearance of pictur- 
esque and beautiful wooded hills, giving a romantic variety to tho 
scene. Certainly, where the Americans have betaken themselves, 
there is a low and marshy flat, that in. the rainy season (which 
lasts here about ten months!) must be a sea of mud : it is said by 
the Americans, that the summits of the highest hills aflbrd hardly 
any security against mud, at that extraordinarily "juicy season." 

There is only one church at Chagrcs — of course a Catholic one 
— and in its construction it is as unpretending as the bamboo 
houses of the people. These houses, which are nearly as light as 
so many balloons, mostly consist of bamboo canes, which are 
thonged and fastened to some slight frame- work of more substantial 
timber, all covered over with the leaves or the limbs of the cabbage 
palm, or the cocoa-nut. They have no chimney at all. They all 
assume to a foreign eye a very strange and fantastical, but 1 think 
picturesque appearance. 

The town proper — the Chagrcs of the natives — lies on the 
north bank of the river Chagrcs, about a hundred yards or so 
from the open sea, and contains about a hundred of these huts, 
screened by their profuse coverings of palm leaves. A sudden 
bend in the river and a tongue of land running out into the sea, 
have caused the town to assume the shape of a semi- crescent, and 
the former almost entirely vails it from view as you enter the 
mouth of the river. On this point of land stands the fine old 
castle of San Lorenzo, built by the conquering Spaniards, and in 
olden days stormed by the celebrated and oft successful buccaneer 
Morgan, who scaled it and leveled it, after a conflict, in which all 



27S TRAVELS IN AMERJCA. 

but lliirty-three out of tliree huudrecl and sixteen defenders were 
killed. 

This fort in the time of its strength commanded the entrance to 
the river and the town, and to all appearance ought to have en- 
tirely locked up the Isthmus from an invading enemy. It must 
have been a majestic castle before it sank into the melancholy 
state of ruin and neglect in which we now beheld it. It still 
bears the outward show of great strength and extreme durability; 
and if it should ever fall into the energetic hands of our noble 
transatlantic brothers, it is still susceptible of being made an ex- 
ceedingly strong and important post. It is surrounded by high 
ramparts in which are mounted perhaps nearly thirty brass guns ; 
there are bomb-proof casemates, and capacious store-houses, large 
enough to store provisions for the garrison, Avhich might last thein 
for a long space of time. But on whatever side you look, Time, 
the conqueror's conqueror, seems to reign triumphant : every where 
his obliterating foot-marks are to be seen, and the castle seems a 
morunful mockery of its former stately self 

The precipitously steep and inaccessible rock protects it from all 
assault on every side but one, and on that it is guarded by an out- 
work flanked by tottering towers at the angles. This is provided 
with cannon, in a rusty condition ; indeed, the whole is in a dreary 
state of dilapidation : this outwork is commanded itself by the in- 
terior fortifications. What a contrast it must present now to its 
former state when the proud Spanish grandees and hidalgos of old 
had rule over it I The Americans say this is entirely owing to 
the indolence and supineness of the " blackre publicans." They 
seem in general to look upon these as hardly a degree removed 
from the negroes. Certainly this Castle of San Lorenzo presents 
a truly melancholy appearance. 

I am told the guns, some of brass, and others of iron, instead of 
standing in their former threatening attitude, have been allowed 
almost to tumble down. Some of these guns are very fine ones ; 
a part of them bear the date of 1703, and others are much older. 
Thousands of pounds of powder remain in the magazine, in a 
lamentable state of ruin, and the magazine is fast shrouding up, 
and destroying in its decay all evidence of its existence. 

The castle is connected with the before-mentioned outwork by 
a drawbridge, and another connects this with the approach from 
without. Enormous "water-tanks, guns, powder, balls, stores, and 
every thing necessary during a long siege, indeed, are there to be 
found, except provisions, and these doubtless have long ago been 



CASTLE OF SAN LORENZO. 279 

appropriated and dispatched by the natives, rendered indolent by 
their chmate, and apt to depend ahnost entirely upon the abundant 
yield of tropical productions for their livelihood. The crumbling 
M'alls of this once stately stronghold seem now to be the favorite 
promenade, the chosen " Alameda" for the agile wild goat, and 
that scavenger-general (in these parts of the world), the unpre- 
possessing buzzard. 

Notwithstanding the state of neglect in which it is now, it is 
easy to imagine that this fortress was formerly (as it is said to 
have been) one of the strongest erected by the Spaniards along 
the whole of their coast ; for it still bears striking witness to this 
fact, despite of its ruined entrenchments and its rusty guns, its 
dilapidated watch-towers, its tottering walls, its crumbling battle- 
ments, decayed magazines, and damaged powder. 

At some distance from the works stands a detached battery, on 
the height which commands the town and river of Chagres, but it 
is destitute of communication with the castle. Some superannu- 
ated-looking and miserably appointed soldiers ai'e to be seen loiter- 
ing about the neglected works. Once more, what a change would 
take place if this were transferred to the hands of the Americans — 
what a flourishing city would shortly be seen here ; and how 
would this decayed castle regain all its pristine power and 
more ! • 

Speaking cosmopolitanically and philanthropically, I feel one 
ought to wish the Americans to take to themselves, not only this, 
but many other portions of this vast continent : but as an English 
woman, I suppose I should not give utterance to the wish. Yet, 
if all illiberal prejudice and antagonizing influences and unfortu- 
nate jealousies could be annihilated, and the United States and 
England would fairly go hand-in-hand in the work of regeneration 
— or rather creation — what might not such a co-operation eflect — 
what would, or could withstand them ? 

But England is too calculating ; beginning now — not to decline, 
I do not think or believe that — ^but to lose some portion of that 
vigorous and restless energy, which must advance — and to be more 
anxious about retaining than gaining ; and her object is, perhaps, 
yet more to check and interdict others from snatching at coveted 
prizes, than to seize them herself. But if this policy should become 
habitually hers, it will ultimately prove vain — the Americans will 
eventually triumph ; and if they are wise and liberal themselves, 
and allow the forms of government under their general sway to be 
adapted to the nature and habits of the diflercnt people, they will 



2S0 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

vet rule ami govern all this hemisphere at Ica^t .' But this is not 
a snhjeet to bo superficially treated. 

As to the population of the town of Chagres, I suppose the per- 
manent inhabitants may number about three hundred — nearly all 
of these are black, or, at least, of the very blackest bronze it is 
possible to imagine. We were much amused in watching some 
of these people, especially the Avomon, whose costume (and par- 
ticularly their coiffure) is very unique. Their jet black, strong, 
coarse hair is sometimes made to stand out on each side of their 
heads, like huge heavy black wings, frizzled to the last degree : 
one would almost think the great vultures, besides being scaven- 
gers, are the iashionable hairdressers here. The ladies have a 
(7iran7o occasionally in their mouths, and sometimes behind their 
ears, ready for use : a little cotton drapery completed their cos- 
tume. Crowds of children, looking like little Chinese idols, and 
not at all remarkable for symmetry of shape, having rather a drop- 
sical appearance, rolled about in the sun till one thought they must 
be baked to dumplings. 

Evcrv now and then some California-bound Americans would 
make their appearance among these sauntering groups. It would 
be impossible to imagine any human beings more the moral anti- 
podes of each other than the eager, bustling, rapid, impatient 
Yankees, and these quiet, peacHible, deliberate, and inanimate 
natives. It is j?aid, however, when roused or irritated, they can 
be energetic, and as brave as lions. 

The Califoruians are Avildly impatient to get on to their destina- 
tion, and aiVaid of missing the next steamer to San Francisco. 
Thev arc almost always to bo seen impetuously gesticulating, im- 
plorinii". threatening, or encouraging the lounging boatmen, who 
are employed £renerally unconcernedly re-thatching with split palm- 
leaves the awnings or coverings of their primitively-tashionod ca- 
noes. These boats were to be seen the preceding day by hundreds 
beached on the oozy mud, and made last to stakes or pegs in front 
of the habitations of the various proprietors. On the second day, 
comparatively few were left, and for those few large prices are 
naturally demanded. All who were able seem wilHng to close 
with anv terms ; but those who were not, were of coui-se earnestly 
remonstrating and arguing the point, and the vociferations and 
gesticulations were all in ifalus. 

For our canoe, wliich underwent a lengthened course of prepara- 
tion and re-thatching, I lound I should have to pay seventy dollars. 
This was eniraged to take us to Gorgona, and I paid to Senor 



START FOR GORGONA. -281 

R forty dollars more, for a respectable person to go with us, 

as llir as that place, who understood the habits of the natives, and 
llie best ])laees for stopping at, and who also would engage mules 
for us there. We waited hour after hour in vain expectation lor 
our boat, with our bonnets on ; Ibrtunately the day was not very 
sultry. As to the swamps we had heard so much of, Avhere we 
were we saw nothing of them, and while thus waiting we sate at 
an open window in our cool, lofty apartment, inhaling a deliciously 
Iresh breeze. 

At last, to our joy, the thatching Avas pronounced complete, and 
we sallied forth, expecting to fuid an awning of considerable di- 
mensions, and of the most elaborate workmanship, from the time 
that had been employed in its construction. What was our dis- 
may to lind one of the smallest proportions imaginable, and which 
it was next to impossible to crawl under, or when that was ac- 
complished, to remain beneath long without being cramped like 
poor Mrs. Noble, in the cage she was carried about in, in China ! 
13ut no time was to be lost, and, indeed, we were all impatience 
to see the beautiful Isthmus, remembering the glowing descriptions 
of INlr. Bayard Taylor and others of its extraordinary natural at- 
tractions. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

The River Chagrcs — The Boat — The Rowers — Their Peculiar anil Vocifer- 
ous Son<Ts — Gatun ami iMillallores — Exquisite Beauty i>l" the Scenery on 
the Banks of the Chai^ics — Innumerable Flowers and radiant Birds — 
Stranjre and Prodigal Intertcxture of Parasitical Plants — Enormous and 
brilliant Butterflies — Las dos Hcrmanas — Accommodations at that Place 
— The Hostess and her adopted Daughter — Americans bound for Califor- 
nia — Scenery during the Procuress of the Vo3'a<ie — San Pablo — An Acci- 
dent^Tlie Lady with her immense Coillure — Monte Carabali — Arrival at 
Gorgona. 

Ours was a light and cfv^ccfiil-looking craft, and we soon dis- 
covered she was one of the speediest on the river. 

After taking leave of Seiior 11 , we shot off at a merry pace, 

sitting under parasols and imibrellas and vails, which tolerably 
screened us from the burning smi, and taking it by turns every 
now and then to squeeze ourselves under the apology for an awn- 
ing, where we found it comparatively cool, but, from the neces- 
sarily cramped position which one had to maintain, it was not so 



2S2 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

pleasant otherwise as the outside. We had no seats but our 
trunks ; liowever, the boat progressing rapidly, soon bore us into 
scenes of such incredible enchantment and beauty, that all minor 
inconveniences were pretty well forgotten. AVe seemed trans- 
ported to a new world — all was so indescribably \\ild and beaute- 
ous, around us. The astonishing excess and superabundance of the 
gorgeous chaos ot" vegetation on all sides, even outdid that of the 
Tierra Caliente ot" Mexico, and it is dillicult to say more. i 

The sun raged like a blaziug temjiest overhead, jHuu'iug down 
cataracts of golden llame, as it were, over all these matted mii-ssos 
ot' llowery and leai'y luxuriance, without being ahle to penetrate 
their dense and intricate foldings. Our native rowers plie<l their 
broad paddles vigorously and switlly, singing incessantly, and xmiio- 
times screeching like a Avhole flock of peacocks, Avith a hundred- 
horse power of lungs, Indian songs, with Spanish words ; one of 
which songs was rather remarkable, inasmuch as, instead of being, 
as usual, full of the praises of some chosen fair, it was nothing but, 
a string of commendations on the beauty and grace of the singer. 
" I have a beautiful face," " 1 am very beautiful," tVc. 

When we passed any boat — and in our flying craft, with our 
light luggage, we shot by immense numbers — the yells of triumph, 
I suppose, of our boatmen, and a sort of captain they had (who 
was clad in very gay-colored garments with a splendid scarlet scarf 
or sash to denote his rank, I conjecture) Mere literally almost deaf- 
ening, and the beaten rowers were not slow to answer them, with 
shouts and shrieks of merry defiance, reproach, or mockery. It 
seemed to me on these occasions they interrupted the usual tenor 
of their songs, and entered mutually into a marvelously rapid im- 
promptu description of their respective passengers, of their country, 
and their destination. Each sentence ended with an unearthly 
yell, that might have fiightened all the furies, and quite eleetrilied 
the lazy caymans that we saw taking their afler-diimer nap in the 
ooze, as we darted by them. 

On these occasions, Sehor 's respectable colored clerk, in- 
spired by the ear-piercing strains, joined with all his might and 
main ; and I am not sure his respectabilityship did not make the 
most noise of all, or at any rate, the most delirious attempts so 
to do. 'J^he extraordinarily rapid powers of utterance of these 
Avild men of the wood and the water, would have astounded Mr. 
Charles Mathews himself Such a volley of volubility, I think, 
I never heard — it was the most distracting, bewildering, vocal 
velocity conceivable. 



GATUN AND MILLAFLORES. 283 

]?Lit they did not neglect their rowing lor their siiigiiip-. "We 
sped on wondrously, and many an American who had started long 
before us, but was dragging along in a heavily-laden canoe, or 
clumsily-built dug-out, looked with envy on our little light craft. 
" Wal, now," I heard one cry out, lugubriously, with a melan- 
choly shake of the head to his companions, " we did ought to have 
had that boat ; that's a fact." I'oor peo])le, they were in a lum- 
bering, huge canoe, that crawled and crept along at a snail-like 
pace, but then they had vast piles of luggage, which would have 
swamped our little cayuca in no time. 

From the intense heat we soon became very thirsty, and were 
going to dip our calabashes in the water and drink, wlien we were 
stopped by our black troubadours, who said the water was bad 
there, and we must wait for some little time' till it was sweet and 
good. However, they soon stopped where there was a hut or two, 
and got us a couple of calabashes full of wholesome water from a 
spring. A poor anatomy of a dog came limping toward us, look- 
ing imj)loringly ior something to eat ; he was quite a ujudlctie 
vivanlc, and lell upon some biscuit we threw him witli the great- 
est avidity. As to us, we fell upon the water almost as eagerly. 

Gatun was the first settlement we stopped at : it was a miser- 
able assemblage of cano hovels. Here our rowers rested awhile, 
and then went on to Millaflores, which name suits the scenery all 
along this miraculous river. I have said little about it yet, but 
be prepared, reader, for a great deal of garrulity on this never- 
ending ever-beginning topic. Oh, what magniilcencc of Nature ! 
What overpowering and inefliible glory of magnilicence ! Your 
very thoughts seemed crushed beneath a whelming weight of 
splendor. All we could do was to stare and gaze, and utter broken 
exclamations of ecstasy. What a maze and mystery ol' unspeak- 
ble loveliness it was I the soaring hills of all imaginable shapes, 
bathed and buried in beauty, and crowned with majestically-lux- 
uriant woods to their very topmost summits. And such woods ! 
it was a perfect blaze of vegetation, bewildering and half blind- 
ing one. 

The gorgeous countlessly-variegated trees of those woods were 
literally swathed and draperied over with dazzling scarlet and 
gold, the most vivid and refulgent I This, 1 believe, was occa- 
sioned by the innumerable multitudes of orchideous, and other 
parasitical plant.«, especially the former, which flash and glow 
witii the most resplendent and glorious colors, and wreathe and 
wind around the highest tops of the gigantic trees, completely 



284 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

covering them with showery vails and histrous canopies of flowers, 
crimson, purple, intense scarlet, gold, blue, and all conceivable 
and inconceivable colors. Earth seems like a sun — a living sun 
— sparkling and quivering with all the beauties of the whole 
creation . 

I never imagined any thing so lovely as the exceeding super- 
fluity of the blooms and foliage, and verdure here. As to de- 
scribing it soberly, it is impossible. The enormous variety and 
inconceivable profusion of queenly palms was beautiful beyond 
expression. And then siidt birds I like flying bouquets of jewels, 
or rainbows, on wings, painting the fervid sunshine around them 
ten thousand colors : and in the evening the fire-flies made a most 
magnificent and tremulously-stirring illumination, till all life seem- 
ed light, and all light life. As to the stars overhead, they shone 
out like little suns. 

The river Chagres itself is beautiful : it winds and twists abont 
like a brilliant serpent, most gracefully and changefully. The 
prodigious masses of vegetation pour down upon it, and seem as 
if they flung their glittering many-colored chains on its bright 
waters to arrest its progress. In many places, enormous curtains 
and thickly-woven tapestries of foliage swept down, broidered and 
blazoned all over with sumptuous blooms, into the blue water ; 
and in other parts the most fantastically-variegated and fairy-like 
garlands, festoons, and streamers quivered just over its surface, 
reflected therein in all their beauty. Wherever you turned, there 
was a sweeping, heaving, and gorgeous ocean of flowers and foliage ; 
wherever you caught a passing glimpse of the inner depths of this 
world-within-world of beauty and glory, you saw wildernesses of 
creepers and parasites, in thousands of mazes and convolutions. 

Some of the latter flowers, on these blossom-embroidered banks, 
had a most marvelous effect, apparently " doing business on their 
own hook ;" for they seemed to be standing alone perfectly inde- 
pendent of any support. But I suspect, in reality, they were 
wreathed and re- wreathed, and piled and crowded over and around 
some irregular stumps of old trees, or chance block of stone — but 
in such unimaginable and luxuriant profusion that they often 
formed as it were, enormous towers and gateways, thus standing 
by themselves, of immense thickness and height. In short, they 
displayed all kinds of shapes, most fantastically diversified and 
varied. 

Sometimes they appeared like huge triumphal arches, and some- 
times of slenderer proportions, like soaring Turkish minarets ; 



BEAUTY OF THE FORESTS. 2S5 

occasionally like the domes of Oriental mosques. At other times, 
there was a lovely vision of vast avenues of flower-garlanded 
bowers, vista beyond vista. In several places the sparkling river 
was almost bridged across by radiant blossomy boughs, a magic 
bridge of flowers, and rainbows, and meteors. It hardly seemed 
as if this abounding wealth and deluge of blooms could have 
sprung from earth's bos im, but as if the very firmaments, "fretted 
with golden fire," mu.-a have rained down these superb and daz- 
zling splendors from their own treasure-houses of starry glory, or 
poured part of themselves away, molten, over this over-illumined 
planet. 

Through these gorgeous piles and masses of luxuriance flit not 
only the many-colored birds I have mentioned, but colossal, daz- 
zling, sumptuous butterflies, belonging only to the tropics, and 
nearly as large as birds — go fluttering and glittering like showers 
of precious stones, tossed about by invisible genii. 

These glorious forests are so thickly matted together, that not 
even the lightning can pierce them. I have just been looking at 
my little companion's description of the exquisite creepers, and all 
the wondrous eflects their elaborate loveliness produces, and I see 
she likens them to quite diflerent objects to what I have done : 
but such is their apparently inexhaustible profusion and pomp, 
and prodigality of growth, and variety of form that a hundred 
people might very probably describe them all difierently. I think 
/ was most struck with the extraordinary triumphal arches and 
columns and castellated towers that they formed so exquisitely in 
their spontaneous, enchanted, flowery architecture, and slic with 
the way in which they almost smothered the loftiest palms with 
their brilliant shrouds of colored light, and streaming lestoons and 
coronals, and then continually passed on to others, linking them 
together in beauty and enchantment. 

We saw a good many Americans camping at a place, whose 
name I do not remember. The current began to run very strong, 
but our fight boat still got on pretty fast. At last the rowers 
seemed to become exhausted, and it was late in the evening when 
we arrived at a settlement called Las dos Hermcmas. 

It consists of a small number of straggling scattered huts, built 
on a brow of a headland that overhangs the stream just where the 

river takes a considerable sweep. Senior R 's lieutenant went 

on shore immediately to get us as good accommodations as the 
place afforded, and we were soon ushered into an Indian hut, of 
which the proprietress was one of the most obliging and kind- 



286 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

hearted beings in the world. She showed us into a very comfort- 
able room (always considering what Isthmus accommodations 
generally are said to be). The bamboo \valls she proceeded very 
expeditiously and neatly to cover over with thick mats and hides, 
and a delightful little tent-like apartment she made of it. 

She was accompanied by a smiling girl, Avho, she said, was her 
adopted daughter, and that her name was Pantaleone. Her own 
name, she told us, M'as Arquellina ; so I could not but call them 
Harlequin and Pantaloon. Poor Harlequin was of a preposterous 
size, though amazingly active ; Pantaloon did all the staring for 
her, and after we were gone, I think could have described us 
accurately enough for the " Hue-and-Cry" at least. 

I can not agree with the Americans about the natives. Not 
only here but almost eveiy Avhere else, we found them most good- 
natured, kind, inoflensive, and hospitable people. They ai-e natu- 
rally slow, but with a little humoring, and good-tempered banter- 
ing, or gentle beseeching, they will make all the haste they can. 
For instance, the way in which our uuMaeldy Harlequin bustled and 
ran about for us was " a caution." She puti'ed and panted M'ith the 
unwonted exertion, but looked the very picture of good-humor all the 
time. In fact, she seemed to grudge no trouble to make her foreign 
guests as comfortable as possible. She gave up a very snug room 
close to ours for the foywics de chambre, with two good hammocks in 
it ; then she cooked our provisions for us capitally, and, till we re- 
tired for the night, kept up an incessant chattering, in Avhich was 
mingled many an expression of kindly welcome and good-will. 

lu short, she was the very best Harlequin in the world, not as 
regards rapidity and lightness of motion certainly, but in more 
solid qualities ; and after she had aflectionately bade us good-night, 
I looked forward to a very sound sleep on the little couch she had 
so carefully prepared. But in that I was disappointed. Quanti- 
ties of insects, chiefly ants, that appeared Avithout end, tormented 
me the Avhole night, and it was only just at break of day that I 
fell into a little doze — (V happily slept well) ; but when morn- 
ing dawned it was time to start, and after repeated rappings at 
the barricaded outside door, that would not have disgraced May 
Fair or Belgravia, and confused cries heard without, of cs inuy 
tarde, and ya cs liora de levantarse, we got up, and fat Harlequin 
busied herself in preparing our dcsayuno, and brought us a deli- 
cious bowl of milk, which was very welcome and refreshing. 

When I asked her what there Avas to pay, " Nothing," she 
said, " Nada, nada." I told her that was quite out of the ques- 



PROGRESS OF THE VOYAGE. 287 

tion ; and after a little amicable altercation on the subject, she 
said, whatever little trifle I liked to give. I presented her then 
with a '■'■gratification" for which she thanked me heartily, and 
insisted on accompanying us down the steep bank to our cayuca. 
This poor, dear, plumpest of all imaginable Harlequins I how she 
waddled along down the abrupt descent I Once more I begged 
her not to trouble herself to come all the way, and she then took 
leave of us most kindly ; and so did Pantaloon also, who was in- 
dustriously continuing her occupation of staring, till her eyes seem- 
ed inclined to leave her head. Her mouth was wide open ; and 
if she had partaken of the nature of the curious air-plants of China 
she would have thriven much that morning, I imagine, from the 
quantity of that element she aiust have imbibed. 

After re-arranging our trunks a little, so as to make tolerably 
comibrtable seats (of course without any backs to lean against), 
we started, and waved our last adieus to our kind Harlequin antl 
Pantaloon. We passed numbers of canoes filled with Americans : 
a great many of these boats were manned by Negroes. Some 
appeared to move so slowly, as to be almost stationary, others 
were " snagged." Some of these, it appeared, had been all night 
on the river. Our boatmen, like the rest, had rejected their broad 
paddles, and taken to folancas, or poles, and our progress became 
slower and slower. We ran under the widely-overshadowing 
boughs of enormous trees, that bent their stately heads over the 
water, and made perfect tents with their far-spreading branches ; 
and at such times we seemed inclosed in a large hollow sphere of 
emerald ; all looked green within its leafy circle. 

The current was exceedingly strong, and many of the heavily- 
freighted, clumsy boats we passed, seemed hopelessly fighting with 
it. The jKdancas splashed us terribly, and the boat had a 
quantity of water in it, but Ave got to the rancho of Palo Matida 
in very fair time. 

The water of the river, we found, had long been sweet and 
wholesome, and often did we dip our calabashes into it, and drain 
a refreshing draught. The vocal performances of the crew be- 
came " fine by degrees, and beautifully less," as the toil of poling 
against the rapids grew more severe : a doleful quivering drawl, 
something like the tone of a superannuated parish clerk, took place 
of the wild shrieking songs that had made the woods and groves 
resound the day before. 

Most beautiful was the scenery still, though its character was 
gradually becoming altered. The hilly peaks were higher; at 



2SS TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

some places, from the highest summits ot' the hills to the "water, 
swept clown a perfect cataract of trees — you almost wondered the 
solid hills did not come crashing down with ihem into the stream. 
They, and their curtaining supcrincumboit mass of blossoming 
parasitical plants, together with wild roses, and lilies, and other 
exquisite flowers, were wedged and welded together in one heaving, 
dense, and almost massive pall of sheeted tapestries. From this 
still, silent, but glorious cataract of vegetation, shot, here and 
there, what seemed pillars of quivering, leafy, bloomy mist, deli- 
cate sprays, that appeared all made of rainbow and sunshine, and, 
in their turn, these were diversitled arid adorned by stray gauzy 
films, and floating shreds of gossamer-resembling and lightning-like 
shoots, many-colored, and light as painted air. glancing like forked 
tongues of sei-pents on the sight, and seeming instinct with life ; 
while with a rapid darting tlight, resplendent buttertlies, birds, 
aiid various insects, rutfled their snrface. 

In many parts these huge piles of vegetable growth looked more 
like thick, hardened incrustations of leaves and boughs. Mhich no 
storm even could ever stir or pierce, than actually growing pro- 
ducts of the soil. Altogether, Earth's great heart seemed to have 
overllowed here, and poured forth all its hidden treasures, blended, 
overcrowded, precipitated, and combined into a rich conceutratiou 
of preciousness, without form or order. 

We passed several encampments of Americans and settlements 
of the natives during the day. Among the latter, was Peiia 
Blanca, a small assemblage of huts, which huts sometimes look 
like immensely tall gawky mushrooms, of most ephemeral construc- 
tion, apparently. At one or two of these places we asked in vain 
for a draught of milk, though we caught a ghmpse, we thought, 
of cows every now and then near the ra/tchm, tended by a little 
vaqucrillo. As, we went on, we overtook more and more boats, 
till the river seemed alive with them. Occasionally, the voyagers 
in them broke ont into a cheery shout of '• Ho I for California I" 
and sometimes called to us to know if v\-e had come in the 
" Georgia.' Most of them were hard at work, helping their 
boatmen to stem the stream, and urging them to go ahead. 

We passed various other randios, and at one of them stopped 
for some time, that the little crew of the caijum might rest and 
eat their dinner. We went by Agua Salud and Varro Colorado, 
and, still battling vigorously with the racing current, struggled 
past Palanquilla, and, as we advanced, we saw many marks of 
cultivation. Hero and there were clearings — not very extensive 



AN ACCIDENT. 289 



indeed — but enough to admit of fields of Indian corn and arroz 
(rice), and plantain-walks. There were some beautifully shaped 
hills to be seen rising near the river-banks. One seemed particu- 
larly high : it was, as all the rest are, like the rising sun, steeped 
in molten gold, and panoplied in a pomp of exuberant growths, 
among which were seen gloriously towering trees, all over-eanopied 
and buried under hanging gardens in the air, of myriad-hued 
flowers, quite disturbing the quiet, sultry atmo.spherc with beauty. 
But, partly in consequence of our boatmen having spent an un- 
conscionable time at their dinner, pai'tly arising from our not 
having started as early as we should have done, owing to my 
extreme sleepiness after the night of torment the ants and inus- 
quitoes had given me, we were late : the evening began to grow 
dusky, the splendid living illumination of fire-flies commenced, and 
we were told it was necessary to stop at San Pablo, which was 
not a very prepossessing-looking place. 

We were collecting together our carpet-bags, calabashes, and 

lighter luggage, when V forgetting lor a moment how easily 

these cayucas are upset, though we had repeatedly been cautioned 
to move very carefully (and the boat had as nearly as possible 
been tilted over before, and had been almost filled with water),* 
jumped up very suddenly, and over went the boat. It righted, 
however, again ; but she i'ell in the water, which was luckily not 
deep there, and, after a little delay, she scrambled into the canoa 
again, being helped by an American gentleman, who, seeing what 
had happened, instantly rushed to the spot, and, plunging into the 
water, rescued her. The danger was not of drowning, but of 
alligators. 

We clambered up the steep precipitous bank which led to the 
collection of hovels called San Pablo, looking as we Ibllowed the 
clerk and others to the little village, like a damp procession of 
naiades learning to be amphibious — for the boat had been com- 
pletely deluged with water. The huts were very poor ones, but 
we succeeded in getting a pretty comfortable one, detached from 
the rest, and where the good people lighted us a fire to dry our 
clothes. We were very glad to have a little supper after this, 
and disposed ourselves for rest, after receiving a visit from the 
mistress of the huts, who was attired in a singular fashion. She 
had an immense shock-head of hair, grizzled till it seemed powder- 

* All officer of the English navy, Capt. Foster of IT. M. S. Chanticleer, 
was drowned here by such an accident. The boat was, however, of course, 
in the middle of the river. 

N 



290 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

ed over, and like twenty judges' wigs in one — nay, so enormous 
■was this coilf'nre that it looked more like a wigwam than a wig. 
She seemed to have run to head entirely. 

Two of us reposed on bnflalo hides, and two on chairs (I was 
one of the occupants of the latter). All became quiet and still, 
except the monotonous but pretty cry of the bird that repeats 
" Bohio" as plainly as possible. But presently, through the in- 
terstices of the canes, I thought I saw a figure moving stealthily 
near our hut. 1 looked closer through the bamboos (ours being a 
hovel of some architectural pretensions, they were woven pretty 
closely together I) : certainly an extraordinary ibrm ■was creeping 
slowly toward us. It looked like a haystack stuck on a pole, or a 
colossal chicken-coop hoisted on a post, and by some magical 
means perambulating the grounds. However, on more attentive 
inspection, the mystery was solved — it was the proprietress of the 
huts, in her curious costume, which seemed more extraordinary 
than ever. Perhaps to scare away all other intruders, during the 
night, she had added to the formidable dimensions of her head- 
dress, where there seemed really a rather roomy loft to let. Her 
ckevclicre stuck out like a huge balloon of horse-hair round her 
head. 

She crept slowly on and on, and pushed at our fastened door. I 
went and opened it, and after some difhculty .she introduced her 
vast head, with all its outer works, into the cane shed. I asked 
her what she wanted? "Only to have a little talk I" I thought 
it an unseasonable time, but did not like to say so, therefore I 
answered her queries as well as I could : " Where did we come 
from ? Where were we going to ? Did we like the Isthmus ? 
Surely we would go on to California \ All the estrcmgeras who 
visited the Isthmus always went to California I or perhaps to 
Lima] Was this finer than my country?" So she ran on, in a 
whisper, lest she sht)uld disturb the sleepers ; and at length, to my 
great relief, the balloon slowly I'ose, not exactly into the air — I 
almost secretly wished it might be carried up into the clouds ! 
However, it took its departure, and the door Avas again re-barred 
and fastened ; and nothing was heard but " Bohio ! bohio." 
So I lell asleep, in peace on the rickety chair I had taken posses- 
sion of. 

In the morning an American lady, who slept in the other cane 
cottage (both belonging to the same people, and like detached 
apartments of the same house — there were very likely more of 
them), came and knocked, and asked if we would like to start 



IMMENSE COIFFURE. 291 

with her and her party. I was awake, hut the others were sleep- 
ing-, and as I knew it was now only five hours to Gorgona, I 
declined, and wishing her farewell, had a little more rest, though 
very soon the bustle and stir incident to many departures from an 
encampment not far off, and from the village, roused me com- 
pletely up, and my companions also. We made our arrangements 
for starting, and belbre long had a visit from the lady — the head 
personage in a double sense, who appeared to act the part only of 
a subordinate appendage to her own giant head-dress. She 
seemed hanging to it, like a tiny paracJiute to an immense bal- 
loon, such as I have before mentioned. She came with many 
kind salutations, and a welcome bowl of milk in her hand. But 
alas ! when this milk M'as tasted, it was found to have a terrible 
flavor of the strongest garlic. We therefore had some chocolate 
made, and soon were ready to start. 

While tying on our bonnets, I was amused by accidentally hear- 
ing, a lively conversation, in Spanish, between two of the native 
ladies, as to whether I was a princess or a countess ; one inclined 
to the first, the other to the last. Words ran rather high ; over 
and over again was repeated " Princesa — Condesa — si no I si," &c. 
I began to think I ought to enlighten them with some red-book 
explanations, and inform them I was not a princess, though my 
father is a prince, and so forth. But it is time to start, and away 
we go, hurrying down the precipitously-abrupt bank, and hastily 
taking our seats in our cayuca, but not before one of the maids 
had received an invitation from the lady, not in, but under the 
balloon, which she so pei'severingly carried about with her — to 
pass her days with her, in these bamboo cages of hers — " Gusta V. 
quedarse coninigo ?" She received no answer but a laugh, not 
being understood; but when I translated the request, an energetic 
" No" was returned, with an eloquent glance at the buffalo-hides, 
and walls of sticks and leaves. The good seriora stared, with much 
incredulity and astonishment, at this rejection of her oll'er, but re- 
tained her good-humor notwithstanding. 

San Pablo, this village of cages, is very picturesquely situated 
on its steep bank. The beautiful Chagres makes a graceful sweep 
and bend here, and there is a clearing behind it extending to some 
distance ; but this clearing is not formal and bare. There are 
lovely groups of trees left around the cane-sheds of the settlement, 
and among them some very lofty and umbrageous palms, and 
acacias of superb dimensions. 

The palaiicas were again in requisition, and the current seemed 



1>02 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

cxlreniely stronp;. About midway between San Pablo and Gorjrona, 
rises the stately hill, called Monte Cavabali : it is a towering peak, 
and is said to he the only hill in the whole province i'roni Avhence 
both oceans, the broad Atlantic and the grander Pacific, can be 
beheld at once. 

Monte Carabali, like all the other heights here, was enrobed 
in the most eirulgent forests, oi' which every colossal tree seemed 
clad in a lustrous armor of precious jewels of every hue. I am not 
sure that it was on this hill or another, that we saw one gigan- 
tic tree on the very summit, sheeted so with the most dazzling 
profusion of scarlet flowers, that it looked like an immense and 
high-soaring obelisk of fire, sending its intense blaze far into the 
glistening blue of the resplendent sky, and, as it seemed, scattering 
around sparkles and sheets of flame. 

We had not gone very far on that day, before the hitherto brill- 
iantly clear arch above us, showed at one point a threatening 
fro\\'ning cloud, which soon sent down upon us a tremendous 
shower. It appeared as if millions ol' wings were stirring among the 
many-sounding leaves that echoed the fast thick droppings of the 
rushing rain. Our canoe shot speedily under the tent-like shelter 
ol' an enormous tree, and we crept as well as we could beneath the 
ruins of our awning of palm leaves Avhich aiibrded us still some 
screen against the storm. In fact, the tree did not allow nuieh 
of it to pass through its wilderness of boughs and leaves. Had it 
not been for my determination in insisting on the awning being 
left, we should not have had a shred of protection remaining, from 
it, either against the drops (of considerable size, I assure you) that 
iljund their way through our leafy canopy above, or against the 
burning sun that succeeded to the storm. 

The evening belbre, finding, I suppose, the awning a little in 
their way, and that it made the boat somewhat heavier, the head 
man had relentlessly seized it, and began tearing it down : I stopped 
these unwarranted proceedings, desiring him in a rather authorita- 
tive manner to desist. He grumbled out it was j)nriso to get rid 
of it ; I retorted it was ]>ra-i;io it should remain. He then ceased 
to contradict, but not to claw down the poor awning. I called out 
ray auxiliary ibrce in the shape of the colored clerk, aiul he, after 
iirst siding with the enemy, on seeing I was determined to cut 
down all who opposed me — of the aguanUenti\ lor which they 
kept a bright look-out — returned to his duty, and issued the most 

imperative orders in my name and that of Senor 11 , and of 

tlie central government of New Granada to boot, for aught I know 



ARllIVAL AT (JORGONA. 293 



— that the pahn-thatch should be loft intact. But it stood in a 
tottering and ijrecarious state, and rc([nirod cveiy now and thou 
bandaging and propping n|) a hltle l)y a skilll'ul liand. 

When the storm cleared away, we nlarted again, and beautifid 
wore some of" the long readies of the shining river, where we 
floated between living walls of sculptured emerald — formed of 
trees, embossed with myriads of variegated, gem-like blossoms ; 
and every leaf hung on those innumerable hosts of boughs and 
branches was quivering with the li(|uid diamonds of the rain-drops, 
and sparkling and glancing in the golden sun, till really this 
world seemed too lovely almost, ibr a temporary abode, and the 
Bense of its stu])endous beauty grew painful. For not only close 
at hand were these countlessly varied masses of luxuriance and 
splendor, but beyond rose hills on hills, all like insulated paradises 
soaring back again to the glorious heavens they seemed to have 
come from ! 

We arrived at Gorgona under an intensely burning sun. This 
place is about half a dozen miles below Cruces, but L had decided 
on riding from tliencc, in preference to going on to Cruces, in con- 
sequence of advice given to me at Chagres. 



CHATTER XXXIX. 

Gorgona — Immcnsn Nnmliors of Amcrirans at that Placf; — The Native Hotel 
— The Host iiinl liis Daiifjhter.s — A I'"ie.stii — Tlio Women's .Dresses — Tho 
truiint Cleric in iiis S|)ltMi(|(ii- — His (Jlory eheeked — lluiitinf; lor Mules — 
A ]irojeolcil Railroad lliroiigli Gorgona — " Sammy," the Servant at tho 
Hotel — Some Aeeount of his Duties, and hovv^ they were performc^d — His 
Appearance — Spread of Fever in Gorgona — Mode of lading Mules — De- 
parture of Friends lor Panama — Pedestrian Travelers to Calil'ornia — 
Stanzas suggested by seeing them. 

Gorgona looked all alive, and .seemed to l)e rather a considera- 
ble place, for the Isthmus. The palm-thatched houses of the na 
tives looked very picturesque there, many of them towering to an 
immense height, and appearing not unlike pictures 1 have seen of 
the great African Baobab tree (only higher and more tapering), 
with slight cane walls running up all round to meet the outward 
edge of the circle of its widely .sj)reading and high-reared boughs. 

This Isthmusian town is situated on a very high and steep 
bank, up which it is rather hard M'ork to climb under the scorch- 



294 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



iufr sun, for our disembarkation there was accomiDlished under 
one of the most broihng skies I ever encountered. Close to the 
river were encamped immense numbers of Americans, who were 
waiting for mules, or reposing themselves, after perhaps working 
their way up the river, or who, from neglecting sanitary precau- 
tions, were suliering from the lever. 

A Frenchman came up to me, and said he belonged to an ex- 
cellent jMsada here, which he recommended, but 1 found it was 
much crowded, and did not go to it. The American Hotel of Mr. 
Miller, I heard was quite full, and I ultimately decided on going 
to a native hotel, which was kept by a Gorgonian, who rejoiced in 
a family of twelve daughters and T do not know how many sons. 
The dozen of daughters, as far as I saw of them, were very good- 
natured and very indolent, and had, like our gentle Pantaloon, a 
great talent for staring. 

The house being full, they overflowed into a broad wooden gal- 
lery that surrounded it, and a few into the road, even. When the 
burning sun drove them in, they were always in the way, standing 
in tlie porch and the narrow door- ways, and always busily engaged 
in some toilet offices, such as putting up their long, jet-black hair, 
iastening flowers into it, and decorating themselves in various 
ways. I found it was a fiesta, and there was going to be a grand 
ball in the evening, where all the fashion and aristocracy of the 
place were to assemble. 

It may be imagined that the fair residents of Gorgona looked 
necessarily very picturesque, when I tell you that they nearly all 
had a profusion of natural and beautifully-disposed flowers in their 
hair, which was sometimes amazingly luxuriant and occasionally 
gracefully braided, or with long jetty streamers flowing down al- 
most to their feet. Their dresses of a light and delicate texture, 
were generally either snowy white or of a lovely rose color, and 
on some occasions the white and rose colors were blended : around 
the corsage were very deep falls of lace ; the arms were bare. 

One of mine host's twelve daughters, is particularly pretty, and 
the arrangements of the flowers in her hair, and dillerent little 
decorations superadded to her attire (which important perform- 
ances took place on the step of a door o])posite), seemed to be an ob- 
ject of interest to lialf the city ; and the amiable Gorgons — which 
name I give them, not because they are ill-favored — quite the re- 
verse — but because they inhabit this same Gorgona — crow^ded of- 
liciously round, all suggesting and talking together, and apparently 
disinterestedly desirous that the beauty of the place should main- 



THE TRUANT CLERK. 295 

tain her position as fairest of the fair. Match me that magna- 
iiimity of the mind feminine in the capitals of the Old World. 

As the following day was Sunday, I determined on not starting 
from Gorgona till early on Monday morning ; but it was neces- 
sary to secure mules for that day. I placed full reliance on Seiior 

R 's colored gentleman, but the afternoon wore away and he 

did not make his appearance. A loud beating of numerous wood- 
en drums and sundry twanging of guitars and violins, announced 
that a fandango had commenced ; I began to fear our knight of 
the ledger was twirling in the waltz, or threading the mazes of 
the Spanish dances in the bamboo Almack's, or on the smooth 
sward before the principal huts ; but I thought it best to wait, 
having inquired concerning his whereabouts. I could not engage 
mules, with the chance of his having already secured some. 

In the morning of the second day, we saw from the aperture in 
our mud-floored room, whicli did duty as a window, the apparition 
of the highly respectable truant, mounted on a caracoling musta'ns^, 
and evidently mightily proud of himself and his prancing steed. 
Yes, it was certainly himself, in utter full dress, astonishing the 
weak minds of some of the inhabitants of Gorgona by his s])lendor, 
and having apparently breakfasted on a poker, other provisions 
being scarce, so upright was he, and assuredly having forgotten 
there were such humble animals as mules in creation. Without 
further ceremony 1 indignantly called to him, and requested to 
know what bargain he had made respecting the mules for our 
iourney to Panama. This was a little unmerciful, as it recalled 
to the bold cahaUcro on his curveting charger unpleasing reminis- 
cences of the counting-house and the pen. As to the mules, he 
had not contracted for any. No I he had made no "bargain;" 
and as he pronounced, with immense disgust, the unpalatable 
word, even his shoulders contracted, and his brow contracted, and 
all symptoms of a poker-breakfast suddenly disappeared. 

I was in high wrath, and demanded to know why he had not 
done so ? He had not thought about mules. There were none 
to be had ; los Americanos had taken them all, and he glanced at 
his fiery steed proudly, as if he would say, " to expect tnc to think 
of such a plodding animal, indeed !" 

" Well, then, horses — have you secured horses for us?" 
" Tampoco, los Yankees had all the horses, too." 
The man was evidently bewitched by his own unwonted finery, 
possibly purchased by my fiorty dollars. I told him I was inform- 
ed at the hotel, there were iimles to be had, and I begged he 



296 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

would instantancmidy make it his business to find them. He 
seemed to take my words, " au pied de la lettre," for he turned 
with a discomfited look to the nearest passer by, who was dawd- 
ling along the road half asleo]), like a somnambulizing snail. 

" Do you knoM' of any mules ?" — " No." 

He turned hopelessly to a little toddling urchin without any 
clothing, Avho was disporting himself hard by ; 

" Where can mules be got, Seiior ?" 

" Quien sabc." 

He then turned to another, who, with characteristic noncha- 
lance, shrugged his shoulders and went on. 

It was difficult not to laugh at the dismal expression of despair 
this caballerd's face assumed, thus checked in his new career of 
glory down the main street of straggling Gorgona, " You see, Se- 
iiora Miladi, it is quite in vain ; 1 have inquired every where." 
He seemed to think it would be almost wiicked to try any more, 
as opposing the laws of destiny ; and really the man looked so 
completely stupid in his unaccustomed state and splendor, that 
uidess extreme measures had been resorted to, and the poor soul 
pulled oil" his horse and dis])ossesscd of his fine neckerchief, and his 
refulgent waistcoat, there was no chance of his returning to the 
full possession of his senses. 

" May bicn,'' I said, "but it is abominable, very, and exceed- 
ingly disagmdablc," and so inly resolving to rely on my own re- 
sources, I closed — not the window, because there were none to 
close, but — our conference, and made preparations, forthwith, for 
summoning my best Spanish to my aid, taking as a guide, poor 
Sammy, the Hindoo Mozo at the hotel (of whom more hereafter), 
and having a mule-hunt at once myself 

Out we sallied, and soon came to a mule proprietor's abode, who 
took us to see his animals ; but they were more the sliadows of 
mules that had been, than actually existing mules, in substance 
and truth. He acknowledged, after a little cross-examination 
relative to their endurance and strength, that they were eiifcrmc, 
and he had given them pliysic. On we Avent, and I thought it 
would be a judicious step to go to Mr. Miller's hotel, and ask him 
if he knew of any mules which Ave might engage. Mr. Miller 
was very civil and obliging, and roared out a courteous answer to 
the requests Avhich I shrieked vehemently in his ear. If this sur- 
prises you, know, oh, gentle reader, that a ball was going on in 
the next house, and that the noise of drums, violins, guitars — and 
gongs, too, I believe — was almost deafening. However, through 



HUNTING FOR MULES. 297 

an interchange of shouts, rendered necessary by the aforesaid din, 
1 became aware that there were still several places where I 
miirht hope to get mules, and at the first one I visited, I saw some 
very fine animals indeed, but the proprietor put the most extrava- 
gant price upon them. 

As I had taken care to have only money with me sufficient to 
dol'ray my expenses on the road (for tear of robbery), and as these 
owners of mules demanded prepayment, the preposterous demands 
of this individual would have left me quite penniless, so I attempted 
to bargain with him, but he would hear of no reduction. There- 
fore I prosecuted my search further, and at length made a very 
satisfactory bargain altogether, which was not, however, finally 
concluded till the mule-owner had seen our trunks, and till I had 
made some inquiries respecting him, of the master of the hotel 
where I was staying, who assured me Senor was a very re- 
spectable and honest man, and he and his mules might be thor- 
oughly depended upon. 

The mules were to be at the hotel door at a very early hour in 
the morning ; indeed, I allowed, in naming the time, for about two 
hours' dilatoriness, and we then went to enjoy the beautiful view 
from the edge of the bank, near'a large, hall-finished house, which 
promised to be quite a palace of sticks. It was a lovely prospect : 
splendid hills rose in front, and the American encampment be- 
neath, by the river, with its snow-white tents scattered about 
under wide-spreading mimosas and umbrageous sycamores, had 
a very pleasing and striking effect. 

An open-air fandango was going on at a distance, and with a 
considerable space between us and them, the drum and the guitar 
did not sound unpleasing. All the inhabitants who were not 
dancing, seemed promenading about, and the wreaths and bunches 
of natural flowers in the hair of the women, and their light, aerial- 
looking dresses, gave an air of festival gayety to the whole place 
and scene : it really seemed a sort of Fairy-land. 

One almost foolishly shrinks from the idea of a railroad coming 
through such a lovely, idle, flower-crowned, unsophisticated place ; 
but we hear it will do so in the course of a few years, and as we 
came to Gorgona, we passed a number of rails, and a small 
mountain of wheelbarrows and tools, on the bank of the Chagres, 
in preparation for the commencement of the work. The insalu- 
brity of the climate seems one great obstacle to its accomplishment ; 
but by careful precautions and perseverance, I dare say its diffi- 
culties Avill be overcome. 



298 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

IL was some lime before we could tear ourselves from the con- 
tcmplalioa of this lovely view, but at last we returned to our hotel, 
and k-frged the almost ubiquitous Sammy to prepare our chocolate, 
and bring us some bread. 

And now I must tell a little about this same marvelous Sammy, 
who was one of the Coolies imported into Jamaica some time ago, 
from the Kast Indies. His Jamaica master, being, like many 
others, smitten with a wish to seek the new El Dorado of the 
world, came to the Isthmus with the intention of proceeding to 
California as soon as ])racticable ; he, however, loll a victim here 
to the Cliagres lever, and left the unfortunate Sammy in a strange 
country, hardly speaking a word of ]']nglish (which, from the vast 
numbers of Americans crossing the Tsthmus, would have been very 
useful to him), and not a syllable of Spanish. He was taken, how- 
ever, as a servant-oi-all-work in this hotel, where, 1 believe, his 
master died, and he certainly had no easy place ; the cry was 
'• Sammy, Sammy," from morning till night. 

It was amusing to peep out into the great sola, and to see poor 
Sammy incessantly scrambling in and out of his beloved hammock, 
"vvhence he appeared never to move, save on compulsion. That 
hammock — one among many — seemed to him the garden of Eden, 
the concentrated essence of all happiness : but, poor wretch I he 
was no sooner in it than he was out of it, and if you watched for 
five minutes, you would be apt to imagine he was performing the 
feat of jumping in and out, so rapidly, as hardly to touch the 
swinging litter, for a wager. " Sammy I" ho was half-way in, and 
down he tumbled again : "Plate of boiled rice, Sammy !" That 
done, away he posted again, hammockward ; stopped in mid 
career, " Some roasted bananas, Sammy !" off he stumped : these 
brought, he accomplished a triumj)hant jump into the hammock; 
" Sammy, Sannay I" out again — so that he rushed about inces- 
santly, a most compulsory harlequin, and between every separate 
service, vaulted, or a half or a quarter vaulted, as the time allowed 
liiui, into the tempting bag again, thus performing the most ex- 
traordinarily active feats of agility unceasingly. 

And, indeed, the immense amount of exertion he went through, by 
thus running backward and forward, to and from the couch in mid air, 
was inconceivable, and by fir the greaterpartof this labor was for the 
sake of repose and rest I He worked like forty dragons in order to be 
idle. He did pretty nearly every thing, that he might do nothing — 
just that he might do nothing — and as soon as he began doing it, he 
had to leave ofi| and work as hard as before. It was a sad sight to 



SAMMY, THE SERVANT. 29!) 

see hitn snatched back agaia twenty times in tliree Keconds from his 
hanging nest of peace. Frequently lie had to make a deiiii-vanlt 
in the air and sj)ring round, and often hi.s head Avonld rest for a 
moment, while his legs still quivered in the atmosphere, as if they 
heard the call which the sleepy head did not. As to pedestrians 
walking a thousand miles in a thousand hours, what was that to 
poor Sammy running, and jumping, and ydunging ditto? 

But a curious part of this singular exhibition was, that the poor 
Coolie always retained, in the midst of the most hurried exertions, 
the same placid, lazy expression. He looked the very incarnation 
of all idleness while he was laboring most severely. He seemed 
at such times a sort of galvanized mummy — or a puppet, with its 
eyes half shut, pulled furiously by wires — or Morpheus himself 
forced to dance a jig and hornpipe by the German magic fiddle. 
So sleepy a countenance one never beheld, perhaps, as jjoor Sam- 
my's. J.t was all leaden laziness ; he looked as if he could do 
nothing indeed, ihorou'j^ldij, and more nothing than any body had 
ever done before I 

Sammy was rather ancient, but had very fine features. I do 
not know what tint Coolies arc exactly in general, but Sammy's 
complexion was rimch the same as that of an anthracite coal. His 
jet black nose was quite Grecian ; he had large black eyes, that 
always looked half asleep, and splendid teeth. His costume was 
rather remarkable. Poor Ma.ssa's black hat was perched on the 
top of his large snow-white Hindoo turban, like a chimney pot on 
a China soup tureen. "JMio rest of his dress seemed a mixture ol" 
East Indian, S{)auish, West Indian, South American Indian, 
Yankean, Califbrnian, Engli.sh, and of his own invention. 

I asked him how he liked the Isthmus. He made a piteous 
face, and after pausing a little to muster his best English, replied 
in this strain : " Lookee, Madras berry nice, Jamaica so so nice, 
and dis no nice at all." WitVi that he vanished to cries resound- 
ing and reduplicated into one grand chorus of " Sammy, Sammy I" 
What was not wanted ? dinner, breakfast, luncheon, supper, all 
according as the hours of travelers varied. But he would turn 
by habit to the hammock first, make a desperate spring and bound, 
and then plunge back again, as the cries of " Sammy" increa.scd. 

A sort of book-keeper and superintendent of this palm-roofed 
Astor House was a native of Jamaica, who had a wooden leg; 
and whenever Sammy heard the stump of the wooden leg, he 
tumbled out of the much-loved hammock in no time, for one of 
its chief occupations was routing out unfortunate Sammy. He 



300 TRAVELS IN AiMERICA. 

seemed principally to have been engaged for that purpose — in 
short, as a whipper-in to Sammy. 

But a delightllil scene took place on one occasion, when one of 
the native hoys, lounging near the door, saw the hammock (so 
dear to Sammy) unoccupied, while that gentleman was cooking, 
laying diimer, and waiting, all at once — as it seemed to ordinary 
eyes — in darted the boy, and Avas ensconced in the hammock in a 
half-second. If the reader could but have seen Sammy's speech- 
less rage and fury Avhen on returning from one of his busy cruises, 
he had almost eflected an entry into his port and haven of rest, 
and found it occupied by that intruder ! A lion returning to his 
den, and. finding it in possession of a monkey, or one of his own 
jackals, could not have been more fiercely indignant ; but his rage 
and his jump were both cut short. " Sammy, pork-steak. Sam- 
my, have done snoozing there." Poor Sammy snoozing, indeed ! 
If ever he Jtad been wide awake in the world, old or new — in 
either hemisphere — he was so then, in his unspeakable rage. 
"With an infuriated gesture of menace at the boy, he darted away 
to get the steaks, set them down M'ith a slam, which scattered 
the graA'y like spray about, and cutting half a dozen insane sum- 
mersets anticipatory, in the air, before he reached the hammock, 
began as soon as he got there (with a final bound that almost 
sent him over the other side), to knock the boy about Avith all his 
strength, muttering profuse Hiudostanoe compliments to him. 
The little rascal ducked and dived skilUblly. He Avas lithe, and 
slippery as an eel in its teens, and Sammy's first and second 
blow seemed to fall on the air. " Sammy, Sammy," was the 
cry. Away he bounded, Avith the arm yet upraised to strike ; 
and whether the blow, which he probably could not stop from the 
force of its oaa'u impetus, fell on the OAvner of the Avooden leg, or 
on the head of one of the California-bound Avayfarers, I know not. 

I was truly sorry to be obliged to look after mules on Sunday, 
but the fever Avas spreading fast at Gorgona, and I did not like 
remaining there any longer than was absolutely necessary. We 
had seen several sutfering from its attacks ; and the poor wooden- 
leg caught it. The following morning I saAV him Avith his face 
perfectly scarlet Avith iever, and his blood-shot eyes almost start- 
ing out of his head, looking as unlike the salloAA'', quiet, composed 
person he had been the day before, as possible. Sammy actually 
snatched a whole nap of one minute and a quarter " by Shrews- 
bury clock," on that e\'entful morning. 

When Ave took our little promenade in Gorgona, Ave had seen 



ARETHUSA ON A MULE. 301 

here and there a wretched-looking sickly object ; and on asking 
what was the matter, were always told it was the consequence 
and remains of the fever. One emaciated creature was almost 
a skeleton, with a ghastly death's-head, bandaged round. I sup- 
pose he had been shaved ; he was quite a shocking spectacle. I 
asked if that, too, was the fever. " Si, si." And yet Gorgona 
is said to be a healthy spot ; but I suppose these people bring the 
lever from Chagres, or some other insalubrious place they may 
have A'isited. 

We were up very early on Monday morning, but had to wait 
a long time for the mules. I began to think I ought to have or- 
dered them to be at the door the night before, to have insured 
their being there in the morning early. At last they arrived, and 
after a great deal of talking and loitering about, they began to 
pack the animals. 

This is a curious sight, and interested us, though we had seen 
much the same thing in Mexico, but not so near. They appear 
to have the same apparejos and alforgas for the mules, and while 
drawing the fastenings tight, they plant one foot firmly, in the 
same way, against the side of the animal, and pull with all their 
might. The mule is blinded during this process. As soon as the 
packing is finished (which takes a long while in the dilatory way 
in which they set about it here) the bandage is taken ofi" the eyes, 
and the mule trots away to rejoin her companions, sometimes 
with a reproachful snort, as if she would say, " This load's too 
much, parole tVhonneur.'' 

On Sunday morning we saw our friends, Mrs. H and 

Arethusa start for their Jornada, to Panama, riding sideways on 
men's saddles — as we also had to do ; but Arethusa (who I must 
say, so iar from having melted away, looked more substantial than 
ever) almost entirely concealed her mule, which, whatever might 
have been its actual size, appeared comparatively diminutive be- 
neath its voluminous rider. (Foi'give me, kind and amiable friend, 
I would fain say, and I know you will, for you are good-nature 
itself) Nothing, in short, of such an animal as a mule was 
clearly visible, except a pair of long ears and a tail. 

After the lapse of a considerable time, we saw Mrs. II 

return alone, apparently in haste. AVe looked for the ears and 

the tail, but tlicij were not to be seen. I imagined Mrs. had 

forgotten sometiung, and returned to find it ; but I afterward 
learned she had lost her little boy, who had strayed a short dis- 
tance from the mule-path, gathering flowers, and had become 



302 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

bewildered among the dense intricacies of" the trackless forests. 
She had returned, thinking he might have found his way back to 
Gorgona, and if not, with the intention of sending people from 
thence in different directions, to look for him. We heard of his 
safety subsequently. 

Our room, with its solitary aperture, commanded a view of the 
commencement of the road to Panama ; and many an interesting 
and curious sight did we witness from it. One that is very char- 
acteristic of American go-aheadishness and independence, I will 
relate. A spare, eager-eyed " States' man," had loaded an ob- 
stinate-looking animal with probably all his worldly goods, and 
was starting, or rather attempting to start, perfectly alone on his 
road to Panama, for the animal resolutely refused to budge, and 
he was dragging at it by an immense long rope with all his might 
and main, he at one end of the rambling street, and it at the 
other, and shouting out in English to the sauntering natives by 
the roadside, " I say, which is the road to Tanamaio ?" Another 
was stepping on deliberately, his bundle under his arm, and a huge 
umbrella, like that you see represented in Chinese rice-paper draw- 
ings, over his head, following the first path that came in his way. 

We saw numbers start along this road (which was the right 
way) almost all with the same frank, free, earnest bearing — and 
one felt they do not go only to gather up gold in the rich mines of 
that far land, now a part of their glorious country — they go to 
help and assist in raising a mighty empire on those teeming shores 
of the great Pacific, to carry progress, order, and civilization in 
their train. I have attempted to express this in the following lines : 

Beneath the Tropics' blaze of lustrous day, 
The nation-rounders take their glorious way ; 
Not solely for the vulgar thirst of gold, 
Pass hurrying on the adventurous and the boki. 
They haste to bear unto that distant soil 
(To flourish soon beneath their patient toil) 
Law, order, science, arts — and all that springs 
Beneath civilization's sheltering wings. 

Pass — nation-makers ! onward go! — 

All earth shall yet your triumph know ! 

Here, their inspiring and momentous march, 
Seems under one august triumphal arch, 
By Nature raised, as though to greet and grace 
Their conquering progress to the Chosen Place. 
She shows her vernal pomp — her rich array, 
And with her silvery voice she seems to say — 



STANZAS ON CALIFORNIA ADVENTURERS. 303 



"Forget not mc, and all I bring of joy, 

Blest hoards oC |)nre delights that can not cloy. 

On! nation-rniiiiders! bold and free — 

But keep your souls still true to me !" 

And not alone her outward charms appear, 
The wanderer's wearied sense to soothe and cheer; 
But all her gentlest influences seem, 
Away from home — to call up home's sweet dream. 
The breath of flowers — the stir of leaves — the breeze 
Whispering soft music through the embowering trees, 
Seem still to speak of home, with tenderest tone, 
And bid them still that pure dominion own. 
On ! — nation-framers ! — do and dare — 
Home-prayers shall bless you here — and there ! 

A thousand generations hence shall own 

Your power — your influence, felt from zone to zone; 

A thousand generations hence shall bless, 

Shall praise you for their homes — their happiness! 

Yours is a kingly mission, brave and high ; 

On ! — in the name of Truth and Liberty ! — 

'Tis a right royal progress ! — round ye wait 

The guardian powers that watch and guard a state. 

Long ages needs your task ? — away ! — 

Enough is Freedom, and a Day ! 

Treasures ye seek, but treasures too ye take, 
To yon fair shores, which ye shall glorious make; 
Treasures that globes of gold could never buy — 
The wealth of Thought and Heart and Memory ! 
Generous aftections, quenchless zeal and skill. 

To mould, and rule, and conquer at your will ! 

On to your task! — with mind resolved, and soul 
On fire to seize the prize — to reach the goal. 
Wide be your Flag of Stars unfurled, 
Ye workmen, that shall build — a world ! — 

Wide be your Banner of the Stars unfurled. 
And on, ye workmen — that shall build — a world. 
A host of nations, wreathed with power and pride, 
Have rushed to glory, flourished, changed and died ; 
And history bears them to your gaze ; behold ! 
High towers her pyramid of nations old. 
Plant the sublime foundations of your own 
On those chief heights of elder lands undone. 

Begin with all they had of best. 

And Heaven inspire ye with the rest. 

The noblest heights that others have attained 

(What time o'er earth with sovereign sway I hoy reiorncd) 

Shall be the lowliest step — the humlilest base 

Of your bright state, in eagle pride of place. 



904 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

There shall be felt thiouirh all its movements free, 

The heavings ol' eternity's creat sea. 

No dull stagnation e'er shall check its powers ; 

Like rounds of th' angel's ladder, all its hours 
Shall higher lead, and higher still, 
Till Time his measured march fulfill. 



CHAPTEK XL. 

Arrival at Panama — Hospitality of Mr. His House — Coral and Pearl 

of the Pacific — The "Espiritu Santo" — Departure from Gorgona de- 
scribed — A refractory Mule — The Cerro Grande — Alleged View from 
its Summit — A magnifieent Forest described — A Forest on Fire — The 
American's Admiration of the Trees — The Flowers in the Forest — Diffi- 
culty of proceeding on the bad Roads — Enormous Loads carried by the 
Natives of the Isthmus — Attire of Travelers to California — Female Inhab- 
itants of the Isthmus — Their Dislike of Americans — Arrival at ihe Half- 
way-house — Mrs. H and her Child — The American Character ex- 
emplified — The Journey resumed — Escapade of a Mule — A Halt — The 
Indian Hut — Its Inmates — Noises in the Forest. 

I CONTINUE (being now at Panama) my narrative of ottr transit 
across the Isthmus, from where I left oil' at Gorgona. But first, 

let me observe that we are under the hospitable roof of Mr. P , 

where he and his daughter most kindly have arranged every thing 
in their power to make us comfortable. 

The house is charming, and commands an enchanting view of 
the majestic and mighty Pacific ; and almost perpetually, the most 
delicious and the coolest breezes blow in at the immensely large 
windows which open on broad balconies with M'ooden balustrades, 
some of them ornamented with rare and lovely plants. 

There is a little green paroquet here, which is an immense 

favorite of V 's, and a great amusement to her. She has 

undertaken to tame it, and as it is the most savage little beast of 
a bird I ever mot with, it will task her powers to the utmost, and 
she will be the Van Amburgh of birds, if she succeeds. It already 
begins not to bite her quite as hard as it does other people. 

From the windows we see immense numbers of palm-trees, 
growing to the very shores of the great ocean, and we can almost 
fancy the fairy bowers of roses, and of myriad blossoms we have 
been so enchanted with lately, are continued, and mixed with the 
labyrinths of coral and wealth of pearl nuder these placid, trans- 
lucent, silvery-glittering seas of music and of peace. Rut coral 



DEPARTURE FROM GORGONA. 305 

grottoes and pearl are poor compared to the pomp of the tropical 
flowers. 

While I am speaking of flowers, I must tell of a most lovely 
and exquisite one here, called I am told, Espiritic Santo, which 
sacred name is given to it from its perfect resemblance to a white 
dove. It is not in blossom now, so I have only heard of, not seen 
its beauty ; but I am assured the likeness of this snowy flower 
to the bird above-mentioned is quite extraordinary, and its love- 
liness consummate. There is another beauteous flower very com- 
mon here, that seems to have long silky tassels hanging from it. 

On the day of our departure from Gorgona, we had to wait — it 
seemed to me a most unconscionable time — while they were lading 
the mules; but patience is a virtue that is pretty well exercised 
on the Isthmus. At last, all was declared to be ready, and the 
saddle mules were led up to the wooden piazza of the hotel. My 
little girl was very anxious to ride one that was handsomer and 
looked in sleeker condition than the rest ; I had no objection. 
Our guides (of whom we had a good escort, and who were said to 
be hombres niuy re^ietables) had no objection either, and we all 
mounted and started. We had not gone far before V disap- 
proved of her mule being led, for one of the Mozos held its rein 
very carefully. I remarked then that they had not taken off^ a 
bandage that covered its eyes, and this circumstance, coupled with 
the fact of its being the only one they attempted to lead, made me 
think it was not so quiet as the others. However, on being ques- 
tioned, they said it would go very well, and at her urgent request 
let it go loose, and it seemed perfectly sober and steady. 

We saw an absurd spectacle, though not an amusing one to the 
unlucky person concerned, who might have been a loser thereby. 
A mule, laden with numerous articles of luggage, was playing the 
most extravagant antics a little way from us, galloping along the 
valley, that was cleared here and there, with his heels generally 
cooling themselves in the air : jets tVcait of plethoric carpet-bags 
and divers bundles rained gracefully around him, and the unfortu- 
nate owner of the property rushed wildly after, shouting, and ex- 
tending his arms, which only seemed to make the creature dance 
his bolero without castanets, more wildly, as if he took these de- 
monstrations for "thunders of applause." At last, as if to punish 
us for smiling at the creature's extraordinary performances, it near- 
ed our quiet procession, and our own baggage-mules showed signs 
of joining in a general contra-danza or a Highland fling. When 
we saw the cherished carpet-bags of our souls, and darling pack- 



300 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

ages of our hearts exposed to such fearful danger, we shook in our 
stirrups (horridly clumsy things they were), but the danger passed 
over ; the rebel mule was secured. The grief stricken owner held 
in his arms his shattered bags and bundles, and with much emo- 
tion proceeded to examine the mutilated remains of various treas- 
ui'es, such as travelers only know how to prize (not pearls and dia- 
monds, nor any such trash, but haply ajar of pickles, or something 
of the kind, invaluable, unreplaceable), and we went on our way, 
condoling with him, however, on his rnistbrtunes. 

I must not omit to mention that to the west of Gorgona is a 
hill called the Cerro Grande, and some maintain that from this 
(and not Monto Carabali), which is one of those heights forming 
the ridge which divides the Isthmus longitudinally, both oceans 
can be seen at once with a glass, and from this alone. Doctors 
diiler, and they set the fashion to all the rest of mankind. I could 
not find that any one had ascended this hill lately to try the truth 
of the statement : the path is said to be extremely rugged and 
abrupt, and the heat of the weather aflbrds an excuse for avoiding 
such a fatiguing expedition. 

After we had crossed this valley, we entered a magnificent forest 
that appeared to become thicker and thicker, till it almost shut 
out the intense light of a tropical day, and thoroughly screened us 
from the piercing rays of a tropical sun at its zenith I It was in- 
describably delightful. A cool emerald-tinted twilight surrounded 
us on every side, and still, as we rode on, we seemed more closely 
encircled and more completely canopied by the pleached and heap- 
ed together branches. It was a ceiling and walls of fohage and 
flower-enameled greenery. 

When we got still deeper into that mighty forest, it seemed like 
a vegetable Mammoth Cave, and as if one was miles below the 
surface of the earth ; for it appeared difficult to believe that other- 
wise, in the blazing noon of the Tropics, yon could be so entirely 
sheltered from every ray of the sun, with only boughs and leaves 
above you. The rich underwood mingled its countless shoots and 
trails with the dense down-hanging garlands of parasites, as sta- 
lagmites meet stalactites in earth's cavernous recesses. 

We heard a shower of rain at one time above us, like the tramp, 
tramp of a thousand fairy legions : but hardly a drop reached us 
(it was not a very heavy rain, of course). We saw scarcely a 
living creature in the forest (though we heard many), except insects, 
and by them we were much assailed, though at the time we did 
not sufier so much as afterward from their attacks. Besides the 



FOREST ON FIRE. 307 



alligators, we had seen on the banks of the Chagres the ugly arma- 
dillo and various lizards, and had heard a loud roaring, which I 
thought perhaps proceeded from the puma, or South American 
lion, but was told it Avas the sound made by a large black monkey 
that frequents the Isthmus. The forests are said to be inhabited 
by the jaguar, black tiger, wild cat, ocelot, panther, and a variety 
of monkeys, who may often be heard chattering away briskly with 
their numerous comrades. 

We have generally been pretty fortunate in seeing interesting 
eights in the countries we have traveled in, and during this ride 
to Panama we, for the first time, encountered that grand spectacle, 
a forest on fire. We rather suddenly Ibund ourselves almost en- 
veloped in a dense smoke, and presently the ground over which 
we were riding (it was a very narrow mule-path through that 
apparently illimitable and interlaced forest), and all the surround- 
ing trees — trunks, boughs, branches, leaves, and creepers — became 
of a brilliant, intense, glaring soft of red orange color (something 
like the hue of the ripest and richest of Maltese oranges inside), 
and the most deliciously odoriferous scents pervaded the whole air, 
as if a thousand phcenixes were expiring at once in their burning 
spicy nests. In short, the forest was on fire at a little distance 
from where we were riding. The guides called out to us to push 
on, but not to be alarmed, for they said there was scarcely any 
danger, as the trees were so enormously large, and so thickly crowd- 
ed and jammed together there, that it burnt very slowly, and 
also, there was very little if any wind (and that was, it appeared, 
in our favor). The trees, too, had been a little moistened by a 
late shower ; so altogether we felt but little fear, and observed the 
majestic spectacle with feelings of tolerable security. There was, 
however, a very loud crackling of branches, like an advancing 
fusillade, and the sparks and ashes fell fast on us, covering us from 
head to foot. 

We rode steadily on, and before very long emerged from those 
thick clouds of fragrant smoke which seemed redolent of frankin- 
cense, and of all the odorous breathings of " Araby the blest." 
We emerged, I say, from that perfumed atmosphere, and lost 
sight of the vivid scarlet and orange-colored reflections of the 
flames, passing once more into the dazzliiigly bright golden sun- 
light of the Tropics, for just then we came upon a little clearing. 
We were glad to breathe freely, and shake the remaining ashes 
from our clothes, which were, happily, of very incombustible ma- 
terials. 



308 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

We soon plunged again into the giant woods. And here 1 wish 
I could convey to the reader the faintest idea of their astonishing 
beauty, and of their peculiar characteristics ; so gigantic, yet so 
wondrously delicate in detail ; vast, colossal bowers hanging over 
other bowers festooned and twining together in twenty thousand 
wild romantic shapes, and with that gossamer net-work of light 
creepers flaunting here and quivering there, as if the rainbowed 
spray of myriads of fountains had suddenly been arrested and hard- 
ened by magic into permanent forms. Then such trees! studies 
in themselves ; some like vast columns of burnished silver, with 
the most smooth brilliantly white bark you can imagine, and a 
dome-like top of magnitlcent foliage ; others with glorious leaves, 
like great green stars, or rather three-quarters of a star, shining 
like sculptured emeralds; then a majestic kind of wild cotton tree 
(the silk cotton, I think), with its beautiful product, hanging like 
feathery snow from it. 

A couple of Americans, armecUto the teeth, and carrying large 
knapsacks, passed us (they sometimes carry huge umbrellas, look- 
ing like parachutes turned topsy-turvy) ; and I heard one address 
the other ; " I've seen a many and a many trees in the States, to 
be sure, but I never saw a dnglc one of these here before in my 
country" (a pretty widely spreading country too), " not one on 'em ; 
it beats all natur, I swarn ; it's all new to me, though I've seen 
lots of trees in my time ; wal, I have." 

Another inexpressibly lovely tree is the bamboo, which grows 
to an immense height here, and looks like heaps of gigantic green 
ostrich feathers. In some instances (on the bank of the Chagres) 
I saw it forming a most perfect Prince of- Wales's Plume, of the 
most colossal dimensions, and yet of the most aerial and delicate 
lightness imaginable. Then there are the beautiful plants of the 
" Spanish daggers," and the coflee trees, the cocoa-nut palms (with 
the huge cocoa-nuts hanging so temptingly from them), and the 
zapote, with its large, splendid fruit ; the mango, the calabash 
tree, and the ceiba, and multitudes of others. 

And then there are the superb Titanic lilies, and the immense 
bananas, Avhich, whenever exposed to the scorching sun, have 
their giant leaves cracked and divided by the heat, and which are 
sometimes split by the wind ; and there are literally roses wedged 
with roses, ever-lovely, and heaped in such close, inextricable coils, 
that they almost seem a single mammoth flower ; and wildernesses 
of hot-house plants (I mean hot-house plants in our country, with 
its coal-fire sun), hiding the soil with their lavish luxuriance, and 



BAD ROADS. 309 



almost forming, one with another, an indistinguishable mass, wheve 
the crowded dyes seem to shift, and change, and melt into each 
other, like the hues of diamonds by lamplight. It is indeed the 
poetry of vegetation. Yes I it is a mighty poem, written by the 
living sun on the earth, caught up by the elements and vibrating, 
as it were, through the beating heart of eternal Nature, that is 
brooding, like the mother dove, mighty in love and loveliness, over 
her own ofls]»ring of beauty and benolieence. 

Sublimely lair, however, as the scenery was, that M'c might not 
be delutled by the dream that it was Elysium, we had a road 
that might have better befitted Tartarus — a road that might 
well have been designed to torture the wandering spirits of fla- 
gitious mules — and of mule-riders too. Sometimes the descents 
were so precipitous that the creatures almost half tumbled, half 
slid down them ; at other times they had to go stumbling about 
in break-neck holes of frightful depth, as if they were about to 
seek in a subterranean passage a solution of the difficulties of the 
road I 

Another disagreeable circumstance was, that the strong thorns 
belonging to various prickly shrubs, which encroached on the nar- 
row path, caught our riding dresses, which were too long for this 
rugged expedition, and often nearly dragged lis off our saddles. 
Mine, particularly, which was of very strong stuff, several times as 
nearly as possible drew me off; for the mule had a terribly hard 
mouth, and disdained the most vehement pullings of the rein, as 
my riding dress did the clawings of the stubborn shrubs. On one 
occasion, just as I hung between shrub and saddle, it kindly tore, 
and 1 somehow managed to find myself in the saddle again ; but 
as to stopping the mule it was hopeless. Talk of " Patience on 
a monument," think of Patience on a mule! 

At rare intervals a small clearing would let the sun come sud- 
denly down upon us, like a thousand flashes of scorching lightning 
in one ; but we had doubled thick handkerchiefs, and tied them 
over our bonnets, so that we did not sutler much from the power- 
ful rays. We gathered the leaves of the fan-palm, too, and made 
additional head-screens of them ; but in general the light and heat 
were mellowed and softened by the over-arching roof of trees 1 have 
described. 

We met or passed immense numbers of natives, carrying often 
enormous loads, which they bear, apparently, in general, without 
fatigue. One man, especially, was burdened by a huge deal case, 
which looked as if it contained a frame house, at least, on its way 



:ilO TKAVKLS IN AMKRICA. 

to California ; and it very likely was one, and an iron lionso " at 
that I" IJo did look tired, poor fellow ; and the house, or what- 
ever the niountaiuoiis load was, had slipped, and he eould not <^et 
it rightly on af^aiu I lie rested 'aj^ainst a tree, and some of the 
good-natured California-bound emigrants, who were seated in a 
group liard by, eating tlieir lunelieou and rejiosing themselves (for 
almost all we saw walked I'roiu Corgona to rananui, frequeutly 
juakiiig two days of it), went to help him. Tlu-y gave him, at 
his reipiest I believe, a ealabash full of water, and assisteil him to 
]ilaee tlie gigantic easi^ (with a small iiotel ])robably inside it), onee 
more liiinly and eomlitrtably (I) on his baek. It was with st)me 
diilieulty he made room for our party, especially our baggage-mules 
to jiass. 

1 have seen the jwrters at Constantinople carry most enormous 
burdens, but 1 think 1 never, or hardly ever, saw so miwieldy a 
load on the shoidders of mortal man beiore. Some of the Ameri- 
cans exclaimed ou seeing him, "It nitcU bo only an empty case ;" 
but that was not at all likely, and the iatigue he exhibited proved 
it was much beyond the average weight they carry, for we saw 
others laden with large trunks, strutting ou as if they had nothing 
but a leather on tlieir hacks. 

1 have written of a man thus jierhaps carrying a hou.se ou his 
back like a two-legged snail ; 1 nuist s])eak, as a " pciulaut" to 
this, of an account in an American ])aper of a man being run over 
by a house — a curious accident. " A young man at iJatli, Maine, 
met with a dangerous accident; a house ran over him, breaking 
his ribs, and injuring his lungs, 'fliey were moving the tene- 
ment, and he was ca\ight by one of the rollers." VVe ourselves 
met a numsiou taking a walk last sununer, 1 recollect ; or, ,1 
believe it was resting ou its oars at the moment we passed by. 
This was on the borders of Canada. 

The Califoruians, all with their gay scarlet flannel shirts (which 
they universally wear), were scattered about the li)rest on all sides, 
and their brilliant attire was glimpsed through the woods at inter- 
vals ; so they looked sometbing like dismounteil li)x-hunlers, thus 
reminding us of lieieestershire a little, though it would be dillicult 
to llnd any thing less like that highly respectable county than this 
wild, gorgeous wililerness-l()rest of the South. \Vould not a \^ale 
of Helvoir farmer think poor nature had gone mad, and rciinired a 
strait-waistcoat here anil a ])air of handeulLs ? Cheerily souniled 
the emigrants' friendly greetings to one another, and their inspirit- 
ing watohwoiil ; "liol for California I" I could almost have 



Till'; NA'l'IVI'lS Oh' I'lli; ISIIIMUS. 311 



liiucitMl tho " Tiiliy" addcil licioic, tlm IuhI, word, and iJui hiMl, l,\vo 

81I|)|I1THH(mI. 

VVd liad to ford iiiiiiuiroiiH Hlroatim o( waUsr, and W(!ro fflad to 
driidt at tlics(j IVoni calahaHlu^H wo carried at our Hadfllt^H, liol)-aii(l- 
iiiddmi^j; with our own tliirHty inidnH. Wo woro now a|i|iroa(diin;jf 
till- liall-way Iiouho, wlniro wo woro told tlio Aiiicric.anH had onurti-d. 

a hirffo tout-hotel ; ami now V 'h iiiulo nhowod HiyiiH of hin 

(lisajfrc'cal)l(! tomitor, hy i|iiiotly Hittin<f down in ono ol'thuHo HtroatriH, 
and tluiH intiinatin;^ InK rcHolntion to proiuiud n(j I'nrthur. (JC (foiirHO 
tliiH conid not ho allowod, and art(!r a (fi'ciil dual (d" porHnaHion had 
liccn apjiarcnily thrown away upon him, lio KnddcMdy honndod up 
and hanj^dd hiniHoll' ai^aiiiHt tho trooH with conHidorahlo violoiu'-o. 
1 1 was, th(!rL'l"or(!, iicoosHary ho Khonid ho lod, and an hoou uh wo 
arrived at tho tent, it waH decided Ik! HJionld ho favored with a load 
of ha^f^af^e, and oim of tho pack irudcH Haddicid in hiw placer, one ol' 
thcHo l)(Mnf^ reinarkahly (io(;ile, ami only not ridden hef^aiiHo hirt 
snperior Htren;;th rendered iiini pecnii.irly 'httcid li)r carrying I ho 
trnnkH. ThiH ill-tcin|)errd individnal thiiH j^ot well jMniiHhed l()r 
his iinpertinencu and contnmaey, hy Jiaving to hear a heavier hnr- 
tlen than ho liad hcliin;. 

IJcHidcH the ina!(r natives (who wero ahnoKt all cuiyin;', hea.vy 
loads), w<i met fj;nrat nimdierH ol'tho ll^malu inhahitantH ol the (tonntry, 
f^'cnerally on tin; hacks ol' midoH. Wo i'ri'fpiently wIhIkmI them jroftd 
morning or al'tcrnoon in. Spanih'h, and they rutnrned thcHo ^rrectin<>H 
alwayH moHt coiirt(!oiiHly and kindly, with a lurtivo ffiacro thai wan 
very pIcaHinff. 'I'hcy oIUmi wiHhed uh a happy joiirn<!y, and added 
variouM comj)limontH ou t)nr ridinj^ dn^HHCH, whicli they tlionj>ht /i/,i/,i/ 
l)i)iii.t.i), () Inn Ihcniiosd., and ho on. I think thoro can not well ho a 
more Kimple-hearted aiul kindly-diHi»oHitioncd rac.(! ; and they mtaux 
aH thoroughly happy, too, uh they aro nnHophiHti(;ated, though cor- 
tninly their hapjtincHH Ih not of an olcvut(;d or intclloctnal kind. 

Thi'y a]i|)ear, I thiidc, to dinliko tho Ame-riciaiiH in f,n.'neral, and 
the inlhix ol' tho vast nnndierH of intrndcrH, that have almoHt driven 
tliiMH out ol their own liomeH Kincc the dincovory ol" tho (lalillirnia 
;i(ild mincH, HcertiH to ho a Hnhject ol' Horo disKatiHractiou with tlaiiii. 
1 verily helit^vo their chief reason, for diHiiking the AnK^ricanH in, 
that the latter {j;lvo them Home trouhlo, which they ahlior — and 
Bmall hiame to thoiri, in their ({(dic'iouH do-nothin<f climate, wliero 
Nature H(!rveH them aH tho nlavcH id' tho Jjamp did Aladdin, in tho 
Arahian tal(! ! And i\nn\ /jOS Yankees hurry them, and rwn not 
enduri! thoHc; blow lin<i;erin<( ways, no litth; Huite(| to their own nltra- 
Anglu-Saxou huhilH of jaiiictuulity, dinpulch, and huHiuoHH. When 



312 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

the natives took us for Americans (as of course they ilitl, till wo 
told them wo were not so, but Jz/^/cz) ihcy would sometimes ad- 
dress us, as they evidently thought and intended, very saveastieally, 
mimicking people in a great hurry, and saying breathlessly, vaffios, 
go-ahead ! — ho ! 2)oco ticinpo, ^wco tiempo. 

We were not sorry, alter going up and down more ravines, and 
gullies, and slippery and swampy passes, than I can recount (some- 
times, that we might not tumble over their ears, leaning back till 
we almost touchcil the tails of our mules), to reach the half-way 
house, and stop at a canvas hotel built by an American speculator 
in a small clearing where the sun burned with ferocious rays. 
.However, there were some splendid trees near, which alibrded shel- 
ter i'or the nmles while they rested. 

We got some very nice lemonade and orangeade here, and had 

the satisfaction of learning that Mrs. II 's poor little boy had, 

by a lucky accident, found his way hither after a long and weary 
wandering in the forest ; and his mother had come to claim him, 
haviug fortunately heard this fact as she Avas prosecuting her dis- 
consolate search not iar oil'. The poor little fellow fell fast asleep 
as soon as they laid him on a rude couch here, and it Avas thus, 
wrapped in slumber, she found him. The generous-hearted Ameri- 
can who told me the touching tale, could hardly repress his emo- 
tion as he described the intense leeliiig of the poor mother, as she 
clasped her recovered treasure to her heart. 

But such is the American : while he will allront with the ut- 
most carelessness all kinds of hardships, dangers, and privations, 
and display under the most appalling circumstances the lirmest 
presence olmind — as if like Nelson in his boyhood, " he had never 
seen i'ear," and could not understand what it meant — his noble 
feelings will thrill at a tale of the sorrow of others, and his heroism 
fails him when some alieeting incident appeals to his unseKish and 
generous sympathies. If the true hero-nature lives any Avhere it 
is in the American : //' the age of chivalry is not past — though 
Burke declared it was, in the Old World of Europe — if in short, 
chivalry still exists on earth, it is in the great and mighty West. 
I think I see a satirical smile on the reader's lips, although so 
many thousands of miles divide us ; and I knoAV if I Mere in a 
London drawing-room what a chorus would be raised of " dollars 
and cents!" iVc., but I boldly write what I most conscientiously 
believe : and hoAV absurd it is to keep harping on one limit (and it 
really seems ahuost their only one), as if either a nation or an in- 
dividual could be absolutely perfect ' 



AN ADVENTURE. 313 



T hoard anollior advenliirc of ])oor liltlo George here. The pro- 
prietor of the hotel a])ologi/cd very courteously lor not havin<^ a 
wholly inioccnpiod rooui to kIiow us into, as a poor sick gentleman 
was sittiu<i; down in his principal apartment ; and he proceeded to 

tell me Mrs. II 's unlucky child had I'allcn into the Ch<).gres, 

having leaned over the boat and overbalanced himself, and that 
this gentleman had ))haigcd into the river, and at great risk and 
with considerable dilliculty, had saved him from perishing. But, 
during his generous exertions he had become, by some accident, 
jammed in between two canoes, and had had several ribs broken, 
and was otherwise much injured. On arriving at Clorgona, how- 
ever — it appeared, contrary to advice — his gallant spirit impelled 
Ivim to proceed, though in a very suliering slate ; and assuring 

Mrs. H , who was naturally anxious on his account, after his 

noble exertions on behalf of her little son, that the hurts he had 
sustained were very immaterial, he started lor Panama, but be- 
came so ill and exhausted beibre he arrived at the canvas puf^ada, 
that he ibund it indispensably necessary to remain till his recruited 
strength should enable him to jjroceed. 

lie came to speak to us, antl'^eemeil anxious Mrs. II should 

not be distressed or alarmed on his account, saying it was nothing, 
and we must tell her, when we saw her, that in a day or two ho 
should be all right. Jiut he looked exceedingly ill and haggard, 
and seemed to be suliering much. He was, i believe, no acquaint- 
ance of hers, but was accidentally passing by at the moment. 

The guides and Mozos took a terribly long time here to unpack 
and transler the baggage of one of the pack mules to the one who 
had such an " ugly" temper. At last we rejoiced to lind it was 
all ready, and, without further delay, we jumped into the saddles, 
anxious to lose no more time than had already been unavoidably 
sacrificed, in continuing our journey to the Pacific coast. Oil' wo 
went, and off nearly wen4 all the boxes, provision-cases, and V(dises 
that had been translerred to the unsaltj keeping of that evil-disposed 
mule. 

There was a very steep hill to slide down almost directly after 
leaving the half-way house, and it was aa excessively narrow path. 
We had barely got beyond the entrance to this, when the in- 
furiated nmle in the wildest rage at having these imwontod 
burdens packed on his back, attempted to dart past us, and, in so 
doing, nearly knocked one of the riders oil" her saddle. Great was 
the consternation among us : we contrived by some means or 
other — 1 have not the least idea how — to make our mules clamber 

O 



314 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

up the least steep precipice-like acclivities of the hanks, which 
rose on either side of the narrow pass, and we had a capital view 
of the long-eared delinquent tearing down the steep hill like a 
crazy thing, sending the other poor baggage-mules right and left 
(who happily declined a kicking-sweepstakes), as if they were of 
no more account to their unnatural brother than our despised 
carpet-bags, which he was throwing about as a juggler does balls. 

What a sight to us it was to see those two scornful heels send- 
ing our innocent valises in all directions ; it was a frightful spec- 
tacle, and alas I the provisions ! Heels, in place of hands, present- 
ing refreshments — so awkwardly, backward, too — it was unendur- 
able. To see one's dinner a quarter of a mile up in the air, and 
one's supper a quarter of a mile down in a swamp, was not 
exhilarating. It would not have been surprising, as the kicking- 
mule careered onward, had we been struck by Parthian drum- 
sticks, or rained upon by portable soup (only thei-e was none of 
the last). At length this disreputable quadruped was caught, and 
the packages were collected, and the whole process of packing had 
to be gone through with again. There we sate, watching that 
seemingly interminable arranging o^ hoxes and bags, and wonder- 
ing whether the cantankerous animal would play at ball with 
them all again, or get up any other little extempore divertissement 
for our amusement. 

After waiting lor an immense time, we were once more able to 
proceed ; but the mules were no longer as brisk as they had been. 
They had been out a long while, -and had had very hard work ; and 
Avhile we were more anxious to hurry on to make up for lost time, 
they were more desirous of loitering on their toilsome Avay. Poor 
things ! one could not wonder at it ; but it Avas tiresome, and, 
besides this, we had not got rid of all annoyance from the rebel. 
It appeared quite out of place in its new situation, and was 
avoided by common consent, being clearly not on speaking terms 
with the baggage-mules, who considered it a mere interloper. It 
was sent to Coventry by the saddle-mules, too, whom it had dis- 
graced. 

Restless and irritable, I think it must have been a poet among 
mules — or genius of some kind : it would lag behind, and then 
suddenly, probably driven on by the guides, rush forward like a 
maniac, and half stab us with a sharp corner of a pormanteau, or 
thump against us one of our OAvn unconscious carpet-bags. We 
found these visitations so unpleasant, that we resolved not to allow 
the animal to play us such tricks any more. We therefore insisted 



HUMANE TRAVELER. 315 

on his being kept in front, and the moment he showed symptoms 
oi" delaying on his way, we set up with one accord the pecidiar 
sound the Mozos make to encourage or threaten the mules ; and 
this vocal melody, which was assisted by the powerful arguments 
and voices of the guides (who probably performed an obligato stick- 
accompaniment to the chorus), had ibrtunately the desired effect. 
But, no doubt, the creature, not accustomed to being a pack-mule, 
became really fatigued, and paused frequently, not with evil inten- 
tions, but to rest. However, such bugbears had our own tame 
boxes become to us (and driven against you by a headstrong mule, 
they are formidable weapons), that we continued to urge it to go 
on before us by the cries we had learned from the guides, and our 
voices had but little rest, any more than the foolish mule had. 

It was almost constantly " stopping the way." We had no 
sooner driven it on than it paused again : it was like one of those 
great buzzing, teasing flies that, toward the end of summer, pei'- 
fectly haunt you, and if expelled from your hand, are found on 
your face, and so on. Now we found our friend sticking on a 
bank, threatening to tumble down on us if we went on, like an 
avalanche of mule and viatigas ; and now just standing across our 
path : and now again he would turn short round, as if to dare us 
to single combat, and sometimes would play at bo-peep behind the 
trees — in short, he was the dread and horror of us all, and a cry 
of " here he comes!" was sufficient to send us all helter-skelter. 

A weary American trudging on alone under an accumulation of 
afflictions, in the shape of blankets, bundles, cloaks, and knapsacks, 
whom we overtook, had compassion on the poor naughty mule, 
and humanely interfered in its behalf " Indeed, ladies, I think 
the creature's nigh tired out : better let him rest a little." But 
we had lost so much precious time by these various unforeseen 
misfortunes, that we could not stop, and we knew by experience 
what allowing the four-footed culprit to loiter behind Avould bring 
on us, and the horrible nudging of trunks and elbowing of boxes, to 
which we should subject ourselves, pi'obably to the demolition of 
our ribs. So we declined this ; and the state of the case was ex- 
plained to the humane traveler, and, as he looked almost fagged 
to death beneath his mountain pile of luggage (and as a reward for 
his humanity to our tired tormentor), I begged him to put part of 
his heavy load on one of our lightly-laden mules, which he gladly 
did. 

We were now at a more open part of the road, but soon again 
we plunged into a thick forest for a short time, and then arrived 



316 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

at a partial clearing. The daylight now was beginning to wane, 
and 1 was surprised to see one ot' the leading nudes taken by the 
guides out of the road along a smooth path to the right. The rest 
ot" course followed, and on iucpiiring what was the reason, the head 
guide came and said, in consequence of the luifortunate delay it 
would be s;ifer to wait at an Indian village in the wood till 
morning, as the road tiuther on was very rough and bad, and the 
forest so impenetrably thick that it would be very dark ; also, that 
one of the guides with the baggage-nuiles had hint his ankle, very 
badly in scrambling among some stumps and blocks of stone, and 
that it was absolutely necessary he should rest. 

After a little parleying and demurring, I consented to remain at 
this Indian village till the moon rose (when, as it was full, it wonld 
be a little lighter than most days in England) ; and wishing good- 
night to the weary American traveler, M'ho wa's " bound'"* to join 
some of his companions at an American encampment a little way 
beyond, and who did not seem much to like the prospect of thread- 
ing the dark mazes of forest alone without the protection of our 
escort, we pursued our way to the Indian village. 

We found one or two of our mules already inipacked, and the 
poor guide who had hurt his aidvle, evidently in much pain. I 
told the head man we were expected at Panama, and must posi- 
tively start when the moon rose, and then we proceeded to examine 
our quarters. But we found this hut by lar the most horrible of 
any we had yet seen any where. It was entirely full of a dense 
suliocating smoke, and there were I do not know how many old 
women and squalling children, and dogs, and rats, and toads, and 
mice, and probably ducks, and pigs, and turkeys, and chickens, 
besides, of course, an unlimited allowance of entomological curiosi- 
ties. 

The chief old woman, who was very good-natured and kind, 
compassionating the horror with M-hich we regarded the accommo- 
dations of this cane-caravansary (that seemed a Nooh's Ark on dry 
land), brought us out, at our request, a comibrtable bench, and M'C 
sealed ourselves there, not feeling very sleepy or tired, and exceed- 
ingly interested by the spectacle of the tropical forest by starlight. 
But such a noise as there was in that same forest ! It seemed a 
perfect Babel of brutes, and birds, and insects, and reptiles : there 
were roarings, and bowlings, and barkings, and hissings, and yell- 
ings, and jabberings. Whether a fashionable tiger-cat held a trw- 
vcrsazioiie that evening, or some learnetl monkeys were imitating 
the ways of man, and making interminable speeches in a congress 



JOURNEY TO PANAMA RESUMED. :j17 

or parliament of their own, I know not ; but it seemed to me there 
never was such a collection of" chatter-boxes got together before. 
Poor dumh beasts, indeed I it was a perfect " clatter veraus patter," 
which almo.st drowned the squalling of the children, and chiding 
of the women inside the hut, and the growling remonstrances of an 
old rnan who interposed his paternal authority every now and then, 
and ordered them all to sleep immediately. 

But not for long I The clamor outside, it seemed, re-awoke 
them ; and if the denizens of the forest seemed inclined to nod, the 
din of the huts roused them again — so they appeared to keep each 
other always awake. 

I wonder if any thing could have composed them to a nap. If 
one had preached them a very long sermon, or recited to them an 
extensive speech of Mr. Anstey's in our House of Commons, it 
might have lulled them to sleep. Let this gentleman pardon me, 
for I do not mention his as exceeding others in heaviness — only in 
length. As to which is the dullest among all the speeches delivered 
there, the powers forbid that I should have to decide : for " in that 
lowest deep, a lower deep," &c. 

At length the rnoon rose in her glory, and a beautiful sight that 
moon-ri.sing was. I, vigilant and wakeful, without loss of time, 
went round to the back of the hut, and called up the guides, who 
after a proper quantity of dawdling, excuses, mule-losing (I think 
they had left one unpicketed, on purpose), and sauntering, sat 
down again compo.sedly by a little fire of sticks they had kindled, 
and said sleepily the rnule would come (I make no doubt it was 
our long-eared torment of the previous day) — the mule wouVl Ji luL 
her&elf ; they mu.st have a little breakfa.st. And they accordingly 
breakfasted on a cigar each, and then began saunter tlie .second. 
At length, to our glee, the truant was found, the packing com- 
pleted, and off we started for Panama. 



CHAPTER XLI. 

The Journey to Panama rcsnmoil — Beauty of the Moon-liobt — The paved 
Ciuisewiiy — First View of the I'acilio — The American's Opinion of the old 
S|)iniiiu(ls — Alulo^tlu^ present Natives of the Isthmus — Arrival at Panama 
— 'J'lie City — The (irand Pla/.a — The Bay — The Cathedral — Jesuit Clinreii 
and ('(ili(i^e — Ivuinoiis Condition of Panama — Americans in Panama bound 
lor Ciililornia — 'I'lio Cliuiiile of I'aniuna — Brec/cs from liie I'lu'ilic — (umi- 

ernl I\l — Insects and Ueptiles in Panama — 'J'lio [''ire-Hcctle — The 

Family of Mudamo 11 A social Custom in Pananui — Half-starved 

Horses and Mules — Panama becoming Americanized — The Carriages in 
that City. 

It was moonlight wlicu we resumed our journey ; — and such a 
moon — earth, air, and sky wore all swathed up like costly treas- 
ures in glittering cloth ol' silver ! it was resj)lendout. We had 
much ."uhnired, during tiie night, the glorious Southern Cross, and 
another lovely constellation, tilso very much in the i'orm of a cross : 
all was so beantil'nl, that heaven and earth seemed almost con- 
tending Cor tlio })alm oi" loveliness. 

We rode silently on, overwhelmed with admiration, and after 
going for some time througli the thick li)rest, which made the 
moonlight appear like a soft illumination through an emerald-col- 
ored glass or transparency, we suddenly emerged from the woods 
on a clearing ; aiul .«o dazzling and glorious was the flood of light 

that ])ourod down upon us, tliat 1 exclaimed to Y , that avc 

must have been mistaken in the hour, as it was broad daylight. 
Hut a glance overhead, where the triumphant suzerain of the 
night was riding in her zenith, pouring, I may say s/i-owing down 
rays of intense white light on every side, undeceived me. It was 
truly splendid : the air seemed all powdered crystal, or shiveretl 
diamonds. The heavenly arch looked so high, and so clear, that 
the eye seettied to see for a million of miles, uj) and up, and the 
air appeared all One Star; verily, the glory sank and melted into 
the very soul. 

Some of our mules had become very lazy. I do not think they 
had had enough food when we stopped, and our lame guide limp- 
ing slowly on, caused our cavalcade to journey at a very gentle 
])aee. At length, the nu)rning dawned, the sun rose, and we began 
to look out with intense anxiety for the mighty raciiic ; but the 
intervening hills still screened tliis king of oceans from our longing 



FIRST VIEW OF THE PACIFIC. 31D 

gaze. The road was extremely bad and rough, but we were too 
eager to mind that very much. 

The mule in disgrace Avas almost forgiven, but the pan was still 
scrupulously given to her — no question of precedence was ever at- 
tended to with more rigid etiquette. We did not at all agree with 
Lady Macbeth, " Stand not xipon the order of your going ;" our 
very mules, so taught and trained by us the day before, .seemed in- 
clined when their treaclierous comrade lagged a little, to make a 
sidling courtesy, and wait till she resumed Ihe lead. She was still 
sent to Coventry ; and if it was she who was lost in the forest that 
morning, it was doubtless owing to her going to have a chat with 
gome wildcat or monkey, who did not know what mauvaisc odeur 
the creature was in. 

At last the rugged causeway seemed a trifle better, and we met 
mimerous groups on foot and horseback, and il-lt we were getting 
near the coast. This paved causeway is said by some to have 
been made by the buccaneers when they were in possession of 
Panama ; by others, to be the remains of an excellent road left 
by the old .Spaniards. As to its state in some parts now — like 
that of the pack of hounds described by a boy some years ago, 
as wanting nothing but new horses, new huntsmen, and new 
hounds — it only requires new stones, new paving, new workmen, 
and a new road. 

Soon after we had to cross a savanna, and we still kept our 
eyes fixed on the horizon, ibrgetting even the kicking mule, who 
took the opportunity of waiting behind, and coming up again with 
one of her peculiar Chifney rushes, after which, she and the Pacific 
contended for our anxious regards and attention, and they ran a 
rather severe race, the majestic Pacific (a splendid bay) winning 
at last only by a nose — so nearly was it a dead heat. 

And now our guides stopped at a hovel near the road, and dan- 
dified themselves prodigiou.sly. I suppose they have a depot of 
sombreros there, and of handkerchiefs and various toggery. The 
poor lame Mozo stopped at this place ; he could proceed no fur- 
ther ; so, with a diminished escort, we prepared to enter into the 
city. At last the glorious Pacific came in sight, and magnificent 
it looked ; but so long had I looked forward to this happy moment, 
and dwelt in fancy on the pleasure of beholding this miglity ocean, 
tliat it seemed more like hailing again an old friend, than meeting 
a new one. 

Somewliere near that part of the road, we crossed a handsome, 
though rather dilapidated bridge, over a stream. An American 



320 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

was sittings down to rest there, and as I passed by, drew my at- 
tention to it, saying it was almost the first mark of civihzation, he 
had seen in the country. 

" And it was built by the old Spaniards," he said, "the natives 
tell me, as every thing else was that they have that's worth sho\v- 
ing. The old Spaniards did nobly by the country ; but they 
won't even keep their works in repair. Some are gone, and some 
are going, and these niggers get more and more like savages." 

The compliment to old Spain I fully agreed in, but not in his 
sweeping censure on the natives of the Isthmus. Though idle 
they certaiidy appear to be, I think their government may bear 
great part of this blame. A republican form of government is not, 
can not be suited to people so utterly unprepared for the onerous task 
of self-government, luilitted by nature, and unaided by education. 

It was not long beibre we were trampling along the streets of 
the old picturesque city of Panama, among groups of natives, and 
scarlet-garbed Americans, who, as we jiassed, asked us a question 
that had been put to us frequently along the road, always with 
the greatest civility. 

" You're one of the ' Georgia's passengers, I think, ma'am ?" 

"Yes." 

•' Have you seen many parties still on the road ?" &c. 

I was much struck by the first sight of Panama, ruined and 
neglected as it appeared. The suburbs, however, were even less 
imposing than such parts of a city usually are, consisting of tum- 
ble-down Indian huts, squalid and poverty-stricken, some patches 
of cultivated ground, and some antiquated rmiclios. , Afterward 
we crossed the line of the old fortifications (strong walls and ram- 
parts still surround the town) ; and we immediately came to some 
noble edifices, proud and princely, though in a ruined state. — 
Their sad condition is almost vailed, and their decay beautified, 
by the profuse and brilliant vegetation that has poured over them 
— as the sea closes, with its bright and Hashing waters, above a 
wreck. 

We rode through the Grand Plaza, which was then thronged 
Avith people, among whom were crowds of Americans ; and we 
passed an extremely noble church, and an old convent of groat 
architectural beauty, ornamented with very handsome pillars, with 
Corinthian capitals. 

Panama is beautifully situated. The lovely bay has been often 
compared to the lamous harbor of ivio Janeiro. The city stands 
upon u tongue of land that runs j'ar out to sea. onHin r ;.. n oi 



CHURCH OF SAN FELIPE. 321 

point that is partially overflowed at high tide. Its many decayed 
but stately ehurehes, its venerable dilipidated monasteries and 
mouldering convents, boasting many architectural })erfections, and 
crowned with the picturesque vegetation ol' the Torrid Zone, 
wherever time has made melancholy rents — its noble stone build- 
ings, terraced and balconied — its ancient fortifications, and broad 
2)lazas, and, in the vicinity, its numerous gardens and flourishing 
orchards, villas, and ranchof. and hacienda?,, and grounds l()r pas- 
turage, and groves of palms, all render it striking and highly inter- 
esthig. The longer I stay, the more I admire its situation, which 
at the base of this range of beautiful hills, with the Pacific wash- 
ing three sides of its tapering jjromontory, is very grand. 

One broad and verdant mountain, deluged in vegetation, up- 
roars its graceful crest close behind it ; and a chain of other 
noble mountains, crowned with forests, beyond the southeastern 
shore of the bay, appears perpetually enveloped in soft vapoiy 
clouds, which make them, perhaps, seem higher than they are in 
reality. 

We had the other evening a delightful walk on the ramparts : 
they command an enchanting view of the bay, and a series of 
green and fertile islands, among which Taboga is the most beau- 
tiful. The towers and churches of the fine old town, so pictur- 
esqjue and touching in its decay (at the foot of those indestructible 
hills, appareled in the undecaying pomp of tropical nature), nearly 
a hundred miles of fruiti'ul shores exposed to the vision, which 
takes in the grand curve of the gulf, and the miniature bays and 
creeks fringed profu.sely with the leathery palms, and those beau- 
teous islands and forests, and the mountains afar, and the mighty 
ocean rolling its foamy surf, with its solemn, measured march, high 
up on the shore, all united to make the scene one of consummate 
beauty and grandeur. 

The venerable cathedral here is a very fine building ; and what 
is left of the ancient Jesuit church of San Feliiie is extremely 
imposing. The magnificent arches spanrung the nave are wreath- 
ed and crowned by a forest of wild vines and luxuriant shrubbery 
and these rich masses of foliage form here and there a partial 
roof for the otherwise uncovered building. A stately college, 
which had never been completed, looks on one of the plazas. Its 
pillars and pilasters are splintered and decaying; but Nature has 
stepped in, and thrown her own mantle of glory around the fading 
beauties of her sister, Art. There are some Franciscan and 
Augustinian monasteries here in tolerable preservation ; but, alto- 



322 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

gothor, I certainly never beheld any thing like the desolation and 
decay to be witnessed dnring a short walk in Panama. 

In almost every street may be seen several ruins ; had I not 
btvn prepared lor the general state of dilapidation in which this 
once prosperous city is now, I should ha-ve thought, on the llrst 
glance, a succession of dreadful iires had lately taken place here, 
from the dreary multitude of yawning chasms on all sides, where 
editlces of dilierent kinds have been. 

Nay, at the fo/ula where we iirst were staying, Ave needed not to 
walk out to see ruins, for in iVont of the hotel was a gaping s[)aee, 
lumbered with tottering, roofless walls, and overgrown by shrubs, 
bananas, and a hanging wilderness of elimbinir ]ilants. On the 
old ramparts, with their massive, frowning battlements, may still 
be seen some antique guns of Old Spain : they are said to be made 
of the beautiful and costly bronze of .Barcelona. 

As a fortilled town, Panama, notwithstanding its being girt by 
strong and solid walls, can not be said to be placed in a favorable 
position. It appears to be entirely commanded by the hill behind 
it, which is easy of access, and planted on which, the artillery of 
a loe might completely batter and destroy all its — ruins! 

AVe live very quietly here, and I hear but little of California ; 
but I was told the other day, there are about ten steamers lately 
goiie, or on the eve of going there, from hence. iStill, vast num- 
bers of Americans are detained here, unable to proceed to their 
destination. A little while ago, they say, there were between 
two and three thousand here. Most of them encamp near the 
town, and some, I am afraid, suller many privations and hard- 
ships from the delay they are exposed to. 

1 have just heard, since 1 Avrote the above, that nearly a thou- 
sand Americans started yesterday, in dilierent steam vessels, for 
California. They are generally a superior class of emigrants that 
come this way, as it is an expensive route, and the " rough lots," 
as they often term them, ordinarily go aci'oss the plains with their 
wagons and tents, or by the tedious way of Cajie Horn. Tickets 
have been at a tremendous price, and it is said great impositions 
have been sometimes practiced ou the more inexperieneod or easy 
emigrants. 

Yesterday I was snflering much from that odious hay asthma 
again, which I had last spring. But ibr this, I might be return- 
ing now, or very shortly, to catch the English steamer at Chagres ; 
but I fear I shall not be able to do so just yet. It is at this time 
of year, only, one is subject to these attacks, and if I were at sea 



MEXICO AND THE MEXICANS. 323 



now, or in llie heart of a city, or on a desert plain, I should no 
doubt entirely escape this infliction ; but in tbo midst of the mu- 
nificence and luxuriance of Nature here (for this seems a city and 
garden, and forest in one), trailing her L'lorious masses of foliaf^o 
to the very shores of the J'acific, and flinj^iug her livinj^ earthly 
hcauty — clad in those royal robes — almost into its majestic waves 
(her grandest watery empire), J am thus victimized and torment- 
ed. Were 1 seeking for poor Sir John Franklin now, amidst the 
harrcn 7\rctic ice, probably this vile enemy would keep at a re- 
spectful distance ; but here, where a mighty Pacific Ocean of 
streaming flowers and fi^liage overflows into the sister Pacific of 
jiearjs, and shells, and rolling billows, and flashing waves, it piti- 
lessly assails rnc. 

Not so, however, in equally beautiful Mexico ; but that is, 1 
think, a most peculiar and matchless climate, the Elysium of the 
world; bracing as I'Jngland, beautiful as Italy — nay, yar more so 
and blazing with the uimttcrablc glory of the richest and rarest 
tropical splendors. Mexico really seems hardly of the earth, and 
the high-sounding name the Chinese claim so presumptuously for 
their country, would scarcely appear to be a figure of speech, if 
applied to lovely, matchless Mexico, — "The Central Flowery 
Lund, the Celestial Empire." 

Perhaps the peo])le may not be rpiite worthy of it — what people 
on earth could be ? but they appreciate and love it, I think, 
deeply; and for a traveler they are just the population for it I 
They may want, to a certain extent, energy, enter]>rise, solidity, 
habits of business, and even, in some respects, patriotism ; but 
they are, I think, the most splendidly picturesque jK-ople (not ex- 
cepting even the Greeks — that is, the Albanian Creeks) in tho 
whole world. Tiiey dress their country well ! they become and. 
grace that beauteous land, and do its outward aspect justice, by 
thus adorning it appropriately with their romantic-looking selves, 
and their magnificent drapery-like acraph. 

We had some splendid singing and ]jlaying here the other night 
from a young French gentleman (partly of >Sj)anish origin), M. do 
M., who is on his way to Valjiaraiso and Jiuenos Ayres, from 

Paris. He is staying with Monsieur Le C , the agreeable 

and amiable French consul, lie sang admirably, and his instru- 
mental performances were extraordinarily fine (there is an excel- 
lent piano-forte in the drawing-room here). M. de M.'s musical 
memory appears to be prodigious : he seems to know almost all 
the modern operas through by heart, and his singings out of the 



324 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

" Prophete," " Beatrice," &c., were magnificent. Miss P. sings 
extremely well, and she accompanied him very charmingly in 
some duets. 

There is a delicious breeze blowing to-day through my wide- 
open windows from the Pacific, and it almost carries away my 
paper as I write. The breeze seems getting stronger (it is too 
hot to shut the window), and my writing stands a considerable 
chance of being wafted olf to the " Grand Ocean," as they call 
the mighty Pacific. 

I went a little time ago to see mj' amiable acquaintance, Mrs. 

H— . I found her at home, and Mrs. also, who is at the 

same hotel. I saw the poor little boy who had had such narrow 
escapes ; he has hardly yet recovered his terrible and fatiguing 
walk. His mother tells me, when she first saw him, he was 
much altered in appearance, and his throat was frightfully swollen 
— she thought from over-exertion and frequent exposure to the 
sun ; but it appears to me probable, he may have eaten something 
injurious during his weary march, that may have produced such 
an eftect. Poor little fellow I his chief distress seems to have 
been the anxiety and alarm that he was aware his mother must 

be undergoing dui'ing his prolonged absence. Mrs. H hopes 

to start lor California in a steamer that goes in a few days, and 
I trust she will arrive there without any further annoyances and 
trials. 

General INI , formerly President of New Granada, dined 

here last night. He seems a highly-informed person, who has 
traveled much in Europe, and who would be extremely agreeable, 
but from a painfully difficult articulation, in consequence of a 
severe wound received in battle, in his mouth and jaAV, Avhich has 
left a terrible scar. It is said the ball passed completely through 
his mouth, cutting his tongue in twain in its passage. It was 
impossible to avoid thinking of the self-same process (though by 
the instrumentality of a difierent weapon), to which are subjected 
magpies, or ravens, or both, in the Old World, to improve their 
powers of pronunciation — it certainly has the diametrically pppo- 
site effect on the human biped. 

General M appears to be a most public-spirited man, and 

to have the good of his fine country much at heart. His atten- 
tion is greatly occupied just now by the contemplated railroad liom 
Chagres to this place, and he is said to be busily engaged in trans- 
porting slave laborers from one of the States in the interior of New 
Granada to work upon it. This is a free State. 



INSECTS AND REPTILES. 325 

Insects and reptiles abound here. It is necessary to shake 
one's gown well before putting it on, in case a scorpion may have 

taken a fancy to the garment. Miss P 's maid shook one out 

of hers the other day. A few evenings ago Mr. P had a 

passage of arms with a gallant knight-errant, in the shape of a 
chivalrous centipede that was boldly wandering over the wall 
close to where some of us were sitting. The meandering reptile, 
on being attacked by a huge paper-cutter, kept up for some time a 
persevering running fight. The assailant brandished his weapon 
of attack vigorously ; but when your foe has so many legs where- 
with to run away, it is difficult to catch him " any how you fix it." 
After sundry desperate stabs at the wall, which the centipede 
with great celerity and dexterity avoided, the poor reptile was 
partly caught, and his tail docked, but the rest of him ran off, 
putting all his best legs foremost, and evaporated. Nothing was 
left as a trophy of victory but the poor fellow's tail, and a select 
few of its many legs. I was sorry for this denouement, as I can 
not bear to think of the mutilation and pain of even a reptile ; a 
prompt and speedy death is so far preferable I However, I am not 
sufficiently read in entoinological history to know whether centi- 
pedes, as some other reptiles are said to do, can laugh at such 
mutilations, and grow together again ; if so, probably the follow- 
ing morning he would return to look for the missing portion of 
himself, and neatly patch himself up in no time. 

A magnificent fire-beetle was caught in the s.ala last night ; 
the illumination it cast was splendid. It shone with amazing 
brightness through a cambric handkerchief that was used as a 
temporary prison for it : one might almost have been afraid that 
it would commit arson unintentionally, and bum its transparent 
dungeon. Its incarceration did not seem to diminish its glorious 
lustre at all. I was afraid it would be hurt, but it literally made 

liaht of every thing. Miss P afterward held it to her ear, 

and it is impossible to express the effect this beauteous living orna- 
ment, this animated diamond produced : it would have made 
jewels of the first water look dull and dim near it. It cast a 

splendid glittering glow on Miss P 's beautiful dark hair and 

delicate cheek — it was really exquisite. It afterward flew up to 
the loftiest part of the immensely high roof, and settled there : it 
flung a lovely fairy-like light over the rafters, and seemed like a 
star that was shining through the roof 

We have made acquaintance here with a very amiable and 
accomplished family, one of the most distinguished in the place, 



326 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

that of iNIadame H . She is a dehghtful person herself, and 

her daughters appear highly educated and exceedingly pleasing. 
One of her sons is more like an Englishman than a cavalier of the 
Spanish race, and so perfect are his accent and manner of speak- 
ing our language, that I could Avith difllculty believe he vi'as any 
thing but genuine Anglo-Saxon. They are of pure Spanish descent. 

They have in the rich native families here a charming custom, 
especially ibr hot countries. After dinner, all the company rise and 
adjourn to another apartment, fresh and cool, where the dessert is 
set out, and the fruits are mingled with the loveliest flowers. Of 
course, all odor of dinner is thus entirely left behind. I think it is 
even more refined and pleasant than the Havana custom I have 
spoken of before. 

We escape under the consul's hospitable roof one source of great 
annoyance to us, and that is, the sight of numerous poor half-starved 
horses and mules, that we used to see from the hotel, and which 
seem to make a practice of promenading the streets for food. 
They eagerly ate any morsel of old crust thrown out to them, and 
were evidently in a famishing state, trying with their poor noses 
on the ground to pick up something, in vain. The fact is, I 
believe, that some time ago, these then deserted streets were cov- 
ered with grass, and it was the universal custom to turn animals 
loose to graze there, as in a meadow. Now the busy trampling 
feet of thousands of Americans have destroyed that formerly abund- 
ant street-pasturage ; but the inhabitants, mostly averse to in- 
novation, continue the practice, and the wretched creatures often 
starve to death in the streets. Their carcasses are dragged down 
to the beach and there they are left to poison the air ; and the 

horrible odor is often plainly perceptible in Mr. P 's residence, 

so that it is necessary occasionally to shut the windows, and almost 
endure suflbcation from heat, in order to escape the sickening 
effluvium. 

The city in some respects seems becoming Americanized, but 
not in important particulars, as the foregoing statements will suf- 
ficiently prove. But when you take a little promenade in the 
roughly-paved plazas or streets (walk you must, for there are no 
carriages), you vnll hear " Oh, Susanna," on your right side, 
"Uncle Ned," on your left, "Hail Columbia," from the balcony 
over head, and the " Arkansas Hunters," from the shop at your 
side. I make no doubt, from what I hear, that shandy-gaff', and 
hail-storms, and mint-julep, are constantly kept iu readiness for any 
that require them. 



SCARCITY OF CARRIAGES. ?.2i 



But imai^ine what a change it must seem to us, not to see a 
carriage of any description ever in the streets of Panama, having 
so lately left the Havana, which certainly, if any place can be so, 
is almost too full of rolling equipages — in short, from the most over- 
carriaged town in the world, we came straight to the most under- 
carriaged one. I asked some one the other day, whether there was 
not even a one-mule chai.«e in Panama. "No," was the reply; 

" but Sehor has a cart" — evidently that was thought to be a 

great march of improvement. A single cart (for it isiha only one) 
in the chief town of a country, where soon a railroad is expected 
to be laid down ! — it will be a jump, indeed I 



CHAPTER XLII. 

Monarchy and Democracy — Enjrland's Treatment of her Colonies — The 
Greatness of America — Her Tendency to Propagandism — Anecdote of a 
Paroquet — The Pearl Fishery at Panama — The Captain and his Crew — 
General Rosas — Beautifully scented Woods in Panama — The Rose Fever — 
Theatricals in Panama — Hostility between Americans and the Natives of 
Panama — Fair Children in Panama — The would-be Englishwoman. 

New Granada, from accounts I have heard, would not object 
much to giving up the Isthmus to the United States, but France 
and England, from various reasons, no doubt would I Education, 
and many other advantages, doubtless, would accrue to the people 
under the enlightened rule of the Americans ; but, after all, it 
seems a republican government is not suited to these South Ameri- 
can nations : it becomes a tyranny or a nullity M'ith them. The 
genius, character, and habits of the people tend toward monarchi- 
cal institutions in general. Old Spain has left her mark upon 
them ; she trained all her colonies in her own spirit ; she deeply 
imbued them with her own principles : this has grov/n with their 
growth, and strengthened with their strength; and though, when 
they threw off her yoke, and asserted their national independence, 
the example of the most flourishing and powerful nation in this 
hemisphere was, as it were, instinctively followed (as if the mere 
resemblance in the form of government, without any similarity in 
character, traditions, or habits of thought, could effect equal re- 
sults), yet the people, it would appear, have generally retained the 
impressions that the mother country sought always consistently to 
give them. 



328 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

In vain tlic loltor is altered ; the spirit is still there. A mon- 
arcliy horsell', she eilucated and trained her colonics in monarchical 
i)rinci[»les, as did Portugal also; and the conscciuenco is, that thoLif>h 
l)y the overwhehniiifi indueiice ol" the example oi" the mi>^htiest 
j)eoi)le ol' the New World they mostly are repid)lics in name, it is 
in name only. Look at Mexico ; look at her eminently aristocrati- 
cal church and army ; see how in society counts and manp'ises 
retain their titles to this very day, and how in a thousaiul other 
things the real tendencies oi" the people hreak forth. How diller- 
cntly does England treat her colonies — with what care, apparently, 
does she lead them, and teach them, and tutor them to be repub- 
lics in lime. Monarchy is a sort ot" distant vision — a myth to 
them : they are seldom reminded of it ; it is a shadow and a name, 
and democracy seems the substance. Monarchy is a rare and 
holiday visitor ; democracy is their every-day comrade and friend : 
it comes home to every man's bosom and husincss there; it is with 
him in the market-place, with him in the street, it is part ol' his 
every-day life, it is with him in all his social intercourse ; and ii' 
in the settlers irom the old country, habits previonsly acquired and 
sentiments originally instilled into (hem should retain sonir dominion 
over them, hunter and lainler indeed, but still not Avholly eradicated 
— in the next generation, when no such antecedents have lei't a 
shadow behind, it is entirely annihilated. 

It may be ohjected that, notwithstanding^ Spain through all her 
widely extended colonies consistently and jterseveringly carried out 
the hmdamental princijjles of her laws, and nnvaryingly caused 
them to participate freely and fully in all the spirit and ibnris of 
her own institutions, yet these colonies were not deterred from 
separating themselves IVom the mother-country. Tliat they did so 
— true ; but the circumstances under which they asserted and won 
their independence had nothing to do with their being monarchical, 
or denuKu-atical in their internal policy. Other anil more cogent 
reasons determineil them on their course ; and although the metro- 
politan coinitry acted wisely Avith regard to liei- dependencies in 
particular instances, in a number of important matters she com- 
mitted the most flagrant errors. Heaven knows we manage our 
colonies ill enough in most matters, aiul we have ingeniously super- 
added to our shortcomings and weaknesses the great fault of doing 
all in our power to nu\ke them not only quite indillerent to us now, 
but utterly ditlcsrent fnnit ourselves in government and political 
organization, Avhenever in the fullness of time (and that time is 
probably not far distant, and will, we must undoubtedly feel, as- 



ENGLAND AND HER COLONIES. a29 

Euredly come) they sever themselves from us, as the dcpcuilencies 
of Spain did from her, and establish themselves as independent 
nations, for it wiU be doubtless as — republics. 

Then, instead of having the great tie of a close resemblance in 
all political institutions, and that wide sympathy which must 
fi])riii,tr I'rom an identity of all the forms of constitutional adminis- 
tration and of organization, we must take leave of them, and lose 
them indeed I for they will naturally and spontaneously cling to 
those governments which have the greatest similarity to their own, 
and feel that the same act which has disjoined them from a state 
of government so little analagous to their own selected one, has, as 
it were, connected them with those that are formed on the same 
model and established on the same Ibnndations. 

It is a great compliment to our mighty transatlantic brethren, 
without doubt, that wc should be moulding and forming all our 
colonies to tread in their Ibotsteps and follow their cxamjile ; but 
it is a very bad compliment to our own institutions ; and in the 
course of time will tend, if .persevered in, I am persuaded, very 
greatly to endanger them. Two great principles will divide the 
world one day or tlie other : democracy and monarchy, and one or 
the other will ultimately have the ascendency ; and as W(! should 
not think it wise or prudent of our republican brethren to sow 
everywhere, from the largest to the smallest of their states perhaps, 
the seeds of absolutism, or of sovereignty, so neither can it be dis- 
creet in us to sow broadcast over our own vast transmarine terri- 
torial possessions, the seeds of republicanism and democracy. " (^ui 
Be rcssemble s'assemble ;" and we are actually training and disci- 
plining troops lor the future political warfare of the world, that 
must and will necessarily range them.selves in hostility against 
our professed and declared principles and sentiments. 

It may be that our statesmen care not for the future — <q>rrs 
moi le (Uluge : it may be that they have a secret leaning toward 
the wholly jmpular forms of government themselves; but on this 
I have nothing to say, neither am i arguing in the leasd as to the 
relative perfections of this or that form of government. I only 
gay, 7'/'we thiiUc our own constitution and institutions are good — 
are tlie best (and /'/"we do not think so, certainly no time ought to 
be lost in changing them, as far as reason and prudence wifl per- 
mit), then we ought to do our duty, and consistently act, so as to 
extend this system, and these advantages, to those over whom wo 
have so much influence for evil or for good. 

Surely no one can doubt for a moment what Australia would 



330 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

become, if she established her independence now ; and every year 
that passes over our heads adds more to tlie strength and vigor of 
her popular principles. As year after year sees the older settlers 
more alienated, by the state of things around them, from the once- 
venerated traditions of their fathers and the character of their 
ancient relations, associations, and prepossessions ; and as the ac- 
cumulation of democratic elements naturally and necessarily (with- 
out any antagonizing, or at least counteracting influences) continues 
to increase, as hosts of humble emigrants, and few but humble 
emigrants, pour down upon the shores of that grand and promising 
colony — how can it be otherwise ] Representatives of all our dif- 
ferent classes and orders should be encouraged to go there, by all 
legitimate means ; another spirit would be quickly infused ; and 
instead of a gradual, but certain alienation fi'om the forms, charac- 
ter, and tone of our institutions, the reverse would be the case, and 
the manners and all the usages of the society of the older world 
would be insensibly introduced, adopted, and preferred ; and if we 
aided the development of those inclinations by a strict adaptation 
to the colony of all the various agencies and accompaniments of a 
form of government like ours — those co-operating circumstances 
that have proved so instrumental in our own country in the estab- 
lishment of a monarchy, and in securing that monarchy's perma- 
nency and consolidation — there is no more reason that, in the event 
of Australia becoming independent of England, she should frame a 
republican constitution, than that Belgium should have done so 
when separated from Holland. 

We should have a peerage in all our colonies, whose honors 
should be distributed with perfect impartiality and justice — orders 
of knighthood, rewards, distinctions, and every thing else that the 
mother country hei'self has ; and it would soon be Ibund not only 
that the aristocratic element would be largely infused into the 
plebeian, but also that a spirit beyond that of mere money-making 
would be more generally and preponderatingly introduced. 

It may be said, and very truly, that the people of the United 
States are as enlightened, chivalrous, and noble a people as can 
exist, notwithstanding that the love of money-making certainly 
largely enters into their composition. Granted, and more than 
granted ; for I have a most sincere admiration for the true nobility 
of nature of the Americans in general ; but their past position was 
widely diilerent from that of our colonists at present. ' The history 
and cherished traditions of their race, the examples of all the 
mighty countries of the world, at that time, tended to inspire them 



AMERICAN PROPAGANDISTS. 331 

with a deep respect for monarchical constitutions, and the time- 
honored customs and grdinations belonging thereto ; and though 
their own form of government, chiefly through the decision and 
habits of thought of some of their principal men, and the local 
tendency to republicanism that we had encouraged and established 
among them, became after the separation a commonwealth ; yet 
they instinctively turned for models of greatness and perfection, 
glory and grandeur and success to the Old World absolutisms, or 
constitutional sovereignties, and thus combined much chivalrous 
sentiment and hero-magnanimity with other tendencies and char- 
acteristics. 

But it is a far other case with the inhabitants of our present 
important and noble dependencies ; they have shining chiefly before 
their eyes the material prosperity, and fast increasing power, and 
stupendous greatness of their elder, but liberated brother. All that 
can attract, dazzle, fascinate, and inspire with the deepest admira- 
tion, is to be found in that magnificent and giant nation ; and to 
follow in their footsteps well may be the ambition of every young 
and independent state. But still Mammon there is too much wor- 
shiped, and in that will their example probably be most faithfully 
followed. 

Do we, or do we not, wish to counteract the democratic tenden- 
cies of our colonies ? If we do, no further time is to be wasted ; 
and if we do not, we are certainly doing all we by possibility can, 
short of giving those colonies the ?icwie as well as the nature of 
republics, to promote the rapid establishment of such a system of 
government in all of them. Surely according to the basis of our 
own constitution — so should the superstructure be tliroKgliout. 

Forgive, reader, this digression. Many things I hear, many 
circumstances that have transpired under my own eyes, have led 
me to think much on these subjects ; subjects that may seem of 
little consequence in the present moment, but which will prove of 
such enormous importance in the future. The Americans are the 
greatest political propagandists imaginable, and believing their 
own singularly successful and admirably administered form of gov- 
ernment to be the most perfect in the world, who can censure them 
for being so? They are too clear-sighted, and too desirous that 
their own democracy should ultimately overshadow and control all 
the nations of the earth, not to rejoice at the way in which we are 
playing into their hands. 

But let me now tell, by way of a little variety, a curious cir- 



332 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

cumstance relating to natural history that has lately occurred. I 

think I have mentioned a little cross-grained paroquet that V 

took under her especial protection soon aff^r we arrived here. Not 
being fascinated by its manners, and having an objection to being 
sharply bitten vv^henever I approached too near the little wretch, I 
declined as far as possible the honor of his acquaintance, and never 
took the slightest notice of him, nor he of me, for he found I would 
not submit to his biting attacks generally, and therefore he turned 
his attention to others, who were either more afraid of him, or who 

by such devotion as V 's won him over by constantly ofiering 

him " dulces" and fruit. 

One afternoon I was very busily employed in writing or reading, 
and it happened I was quite absorbed and wrapped up in my oc- 
cupation, and hardly knew that my little cross-patch of a paroquet 
had been left to amuse himself on the balcony, as was sometimes 
the case. Presently he began making a tremendous and piercing 
noise, screaming far louder than I had ever heard him do. I took 
no notice at first, but the sound increased, and I thought was per- 
tinaciously addressed to me — I can not describe what a deafening 
din the little animal contrived to make, evidently to attract my 
attention. At last I looked up, and beheld it to my surprise post- 
ing directly toward me, as fast as it could waddle, lor its gait was 
something like that of the Turkish or Tunis women, in their 
tumble-off slippers. It had to cross a great part of the immense 
drawing-room to get to me ; but with its eyes fixed on me in the 
most supplicating manner, and almost starting out of its little 
poked-forward head, it hurried on, making right for the place where 
I was sitting. Surprised at its unusual conduct, and compassion- 
ating the poor little creature's evident perturbation and uneasiness 
— though in what originating I knew not — I put down my hand 
for the bird to mount on the finger, as it commonly did ; it lost 
not a quarter of a second in so doing, fluttering with anxiety, and 
halfdead with terror. The moment I took it np, it liid itself, as 
well as it could, in the folds of a shawl I had on. 

I felt there must be some enemy at hand, but what, and where ? 
I glanced round the room. In a corner near the balcony, which 
was comparatively dark, I perceived a cat, who was all ready for 
the fatal spring, but had possibly been arrested by the same instinct 
that had taught the sensible little bird to hurry and clamor so 
loudly to me for protection. Puss was so grievously disappointed 
at the loss of her anticipated repast, that she actually seemed 
almost inclined to dispute with me the poor little trembling paro- 



PANAMA PEARL-FISHERY. 333 

qnet, who was, as nearly as a bird could be, in hysterics of fear. 
He shook with terror, and seemed as if he would fall into a fit. 

I drove the cat away ; and after a great deal of soothing and 
encouraging, the poor little paroquet was restored to composure, 
and after a long time, showed his convalescence and his gratitude 
by hints that he began to feel himself in biting trim again. How- 
ever, I think since this affair he has not bit me, when I have ven- 
tured to approach, quite so savagely or so often as before. 

To turn from this little ex-demon, to a totally different subject. 
I was reading in my room the other day, when I was called to see 
a pretty sight. On hurrying out of our suite of rooms, what should 
I see but a little winged angel on the stairs ! This was a child 

of SeiTora , who was dressed to perform her part in a religious 

procession that was going to take place. The little creature looked 
lovely, covered with resplendent diamonds and pearls, and furnished 
with bright little silvery wings ; but it had a sad expression of 
countenance, the effect of which was very touching. A sort of 
star, of magnificent jewels, was gleaming on its bosom, and it 
seemed almost oppressed by the weight of gems it had to carry. 

This angel visitant was accompanied by a nurse, who appeared 
very proud of the little glittering thing, and of the profusion of 
costly jewels with Avhich it was so superbly adorned. The pearls 
were wonderfully splendid ; but this is a native land — or rather 
native water — of pearls, for there is a regular pearl-fishery estab- 
lished here. 

These treasures of the deep are abundantly found around the 
adjoining islands, and prove a profitable source of employment to a 
considerable body of men, who follow the laborious occupation of 
divers. It is said, that Messrs. Rundell and Bridge, some time 
ago, paid down a sum of money for the right to monopolize the 
trade, and they sent out from England a diving-bell, which it was 
anticipated Avould materially tend to increase the supply of pearls 
from these oyster-beds ; but the attempt was a vain one, in conse- 
quence of the rocky nature of the bottom of the bay, together with 
the very heavy ground-swell, which is so frequent here. The trade 
was, therefore, again transferred to the natives, who sell all they 
find to the resident merchants, for the jewel-cases of the fair Pana- 
manians, as it is said not many are exported to the Old World. 

The cook here (who, by the way, is an excellent one) sent up to 
me, the other day, a number of lovely pearls, which he had pur- 
chased, I believe, from the divers on speculation. They looked 
tempting enough, as they rolled one by one out of the long tubular 



334 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

case ill which llicy were deposited, sliininj^ with extraordinary 
lustre — so i'rcsh Irom the great Pacific that all the snowy whiteness 
of its eternal surf seemed sparkling on thcin ! 

But I would not purchase any ; for, while traveling and 
voyaging about, it is far preferable to have nothing that is valua- 
ble, as i'ar as it can be avoided. I had left every thing I brought 
with ine of any value in the British Consulate at the Havana, 
Mr. Kennedy having given me permission so to do. 

A day or two ago, I had a surprise, which was occasioned by a 
very dilierent being from the pretty winged angel, mailed in 
jewels, and with a little halo of splendor around it. I was return- 
ing in the alternoon I'lom the drawing-room to my own apartment, 
to arrive at which I had to traverse several rooms ; the first a 
sort of sitting-room, which opened on one side to a chamber 
generally appropriated by Madame Jenny (the French fcmvie cle 

ckambrc of Miss P.^ ) lor the safe-keeping of various stores ; and 

on the other side there was a door, which conducted to the room 
which H. and W. inhabited, who were then both out. When I 
reached the large gate-like doors which led to the outer apartment, 
I was much astonished to see them shut, and still more to see 
them opened suddenly, and a man in a sailor-like garb rush out in 
a horrible condition I 

He had evidently been subjected to shocking bad treatment; his 
head and face seemed a mass of bruises and wounds, and he ap- 
peared considerably agitated, not to say alarmed. He informed 
me, in a hurried manner, that he Avas the captain of a merchant- 
vessel, then at Panama, and had had a mutiny among his men ; 
had escaped with diiliculty, was pursued by them, and dreadfully 
ill-treated ; he had rushed into the Consulate lor refuge and safety, 
and was watched by the disaiicctcd crew, who had stationed 
themselves at the gates of the Consulate, not daring to penetrate 
further, but intending to attack him, if he ventured to quit its 
sheltering roof. 

Mr. P was out at the lime, but was momentarily expected 

home. A chair was brought by Madame Jenny, and placed near 
the office-door, where the poor man waited till the Consul arrived, 

to tell his ]iiteous tale. Mr. P told me afterward that such 

cases are of very common occurrence here now. The crews, in 
general, it appears, are all anxious to get to California (and when 
there, to go to the mines) ; besides, they have constant opportuni- 
ties of getting higher wages, and are continually in a state of 
discontent. 



PARTY COLORS OF GENERAL ROSAS. 335 

"We have no Consul, I find, at San Francisco, which seems very- 
strange, when it is considered how many EngHsh merchant-ships 
there arc now at that port, and what an important place it has 
become. 

There is a family of distinction here, from Buenos Ayres, and 
as it seems General Rosas makes all his followers, male and 
female, wear his colors, red and all red : in whatever part of the 
world they may be, they are forced, on the most broiling day, to 
go about like land-lubberized and boiled lobsters. The great 
Dictator, it is asserted, has spies in multitudes in all parts, and no 
one dare infringe his rules, as they would certainly be detected. 
Thus these Buenos-Ayrcan travelers are condemned to this per- 
petual blush of "celestial rosy red" from morning till night, and, 
lor aught 1 know to the contrary, from night till morning also, iu 
the shape of vermilion night-robes. 

I believe they do not very often leave their habitation, but 
whenever they do — no matter how sultry or sunshiny the day, so 
near the equator — they are necessitated to make their appearance 
like locomotive bonfires, or beefeaters of private life, or demons 
(amiable social ones, however), such as strutted ibrmerly in the 
hideous auto-da-fe processions, painted all over with crimson 
flames — or perambulating poppies, or peripatetic scarlet-beans, or 
as if they were burning them.selves in effigy (for red in this blazing 
sunshine seems to roast one) ; in short, they were, as a French 
friend of mine once designated a married lady and gentleman of 
my acquaintance, who were remarkable for rubicund complexions, 
a regular metiage caroUe. It would be awkward for them to 
meet a vaqucro driving a herd of bulls accidentally, for the fury 
aroused in these animals by the sight of scarlet is well known. 

General Rosas is said to be extremely civil and obliging just 
now to the English. We have had a tremendous thunder-storm 
here ; it was necessary to close all the windows, and the crashing 
of the thunder was terrific. The rain came down like a temporary 
deluge, but the air seemed very sweet and fresh after it, though 1 
do not think it was made much cooler. 

Almost every evening we hear fandangoes going on, al fresco 
among the natives, and mulattoes and negroes, who seem passion- 
ately fond votaries of Terpsichore. The sound of their guitars, 
drums and flageolets, with the accompaniment, 1 believe, of some 
hollow gourds, in which they rattle a number of pebbles, is pleasant 
enough at a distance; mingling with the chiming, solemn roll of 
the ocean. 



336 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Madame H came to a little soiree here the other night. 

She was sitting by me on the sofa, and as we were conversing 
together, I was charmed by a perfume on her handkerchief, the 
most exquisite it is possible to imagine. I could not resist asking 
her the name of it, and if it was a Panamanian perl'ume. She 
told me it was the scrapings of a highly-scented wood that grows in 
the forests of the Isthmus. These little shavings of wood, the 
odor of which I think is incomparably delicious, are laid among 
the handkerchiefs, and give them an intense fragrance. 

Madame II was kind enough to say she would send me 

some of these scrapings, as I admired the scent so much, and 
accordingly a little packet arrived the following day, but of anoth- 
er kind of wood, Madame II finding her stock of the first was 

exhausted. This is very sweet, but does not at all equal the wood 
that had previously so much charmed me. 

A French lady at the Havana, the wile of a medical gentleman 
from Paris, begged me, when I came here, to ascertain whether 
there was any opening for a French physician here, they having 
been ruined by the French revolution (not because it improved 
the general health, though). I consequently made inquiries, and 
found there were at least two established here, who are much 
liked. There are American doctors here too, and aii English 
one also. The latter has attended me ; he is a clever person, 
most highly recommended, and has almost cured my hay-asthma. 
By the way, this complaint is known in the United States, and 
is called there, rose-fever. 

I am strongly recommended, instead of returning at once across 
the Isthmus, to proceed to Lima in one of the English steamers, 
that regularly run from hence to Callao and Valparaiso every 
month. The sea voyage would do me a great deal of good, and 
drive away, probably, all remains of the indisposition ; and I think 
Lima would, independently of that, be well worth a visit, now 
that we are, comparatively speaking, so near it. I have almost 
recovered from the attack, but I dare not venture out at 
present. 

Miss P went last evening to the theatre with Madame 

H . I believe it is an enormous building, quite unfinished, 

and not originally designed for the purpose it now serves, it is 
without any roof whatever, so the spectators sit there a la belle 
etoile, happy indeed if the stars do shine, and no storm of rain, 
such as we lately had, comes down to wash them out of their 
seats. The perlbrmances are said to be very fair. " No toca a 



HOSTILITIES BETWEEN AMERICANS AND NATIVES. 337 

la reina," from the French play, " Ne touchez pas S la reiiie," 
was given the other night, and, I hear, very nicely acted. 

The Americans, many ot'whom do not understand Spanish, got 
up some opposition theatricals a day or two ago in one of the 
hotels, the i<ala of which was fitted up as a theatre ; but this 
failed, the company not meeting altogether with the approbation 
of the audience — at least so it was rumored. It happened that 
the evening Avas oppressively hot, and I think the actors must 
have found it hard work to please a large number of people, 
crowded together in-doors, in a comparatively small room. In 
such an atmosphere as must have prevailed there, they could not 
have attempted much exertion themselves assuredly, unless they 
had been salamanders, and applause too, so necessary to stimulate 
actors, must have been wanting. Certainly the cooler roofless 
theatre must, under these circumstances, bear away the palm and 
win the jjalms, from the very fact of its being so. 

A sort of riot took place here a little while ago, I believe in 
consequence of some suspected robbery. One man supposed, 
among others, to be implicated, was chased a good distance by the 

aggrieved parties. Mr. P , returning from a ride he had 

taken into the country, met this hunted man running near the 

entrance to the town, and he rather coolly asked Mr. V to lend 

him his horse, which proposition Avas respectfully declined. 

It is said there is a great deal of ill-feeling between the Ameri- 
cans and the Panamanians : the former accuse the latter of thiev- 
ing and cheating, and the natives indignantly retort. One reason, 
I believe, why the Americans do not agree so well with the natives 
as the English, is that they are accustomed to look upon all color- 
ed people with great contempt. They call all the Indians and 
half Indians by the general name of Niggers, and treat them as 
such ; and that offends these people much, who, though good-tem- 
pered and gentle, are very high-spirited. 

Whatever pilfering goes on is laid to the natives by the Cali- 
fornian emigrants ; and the natives say, " No, it is all among 
yourselves." Then revolvers and knives are very apt to make 
their appearance ; and as these articles are not exactly philosoph- 
'ical pacificators, the fray is often begun in right earnest, and 
sometimes ends in bloodshed. 

We have tolerably fine weather here now, with only an occa- 
sional deluge ; but we hear that in the interior of the country 
the rainy season has rather earlier than usual almost regu- 
larly commenced A young lady who has lately arrived at Pana- 

P 



338 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

ma from England to take the place of governess in the family 

of Mr. L , the Vicc-Consnl here, said that tliree times iiiulor 

the most violently pouring rain her elolhes had been tlioroiighly 
satiiraled with water in the course of a few liours, and as often en- 
tirely dried again by the intensely powerful rays of the burning 
sun. 

ller lillle pupils are half South American and half English, aa 

IMr. L married a lady of New Uranada. I saw a pretty 

little boy of his the other evening ; he brought a message from his 
latliL'r to the (\)nsul. I spoke to him in English. 

"No liablo .Ingles," said the little fellow, with a haU'-apologetic 
shrug of his ])retty shoulder. 

He looked like a little Anglo-Saxon, however, heing exceedingly 
fair, with a delicate blonde head. One of Madame lliirtado's 
cliildren is also very fair indeed, M'hich is singular lor a Spanish 
South American ; but every now and then such rare instances are 
seen, and generally are much admired ; as, lor example, the liiinous 
Mexican beauty of l()rmer days, " .La Gucra," pcir e.rcrllcucc, the 
admired of lliimboKIt — La CJiiera i\oilriguc/, who hewitched even 
that ])aragon of philosophers. Would that her iniluenee, or any 
other iullueiice, coulil have jjcrsuadcd him to simplify their dilHcult 
language of technicalities and names, and condescend to a little 
miscientilicali/.alion of their terms ! not tiiat the truly great Hum- 
bolilt, however, sins ])articularly in that respect. AVhat a chatter- 
ing there is in the outer room, as if an improvised tertulia were 
taking place ; let us look in and sec what is the matter. 

An amusing scene I A quantity of things are just brought in 
by the washerwomen, and two or three other native women have 
lately come in on divers errands. A lew of them arc most grace- 
fully vcfdined on the lloor, being fatigued by their Avalk under the 
burning sun. It is the height of jjicturesqueness, their coal-black 
liair streaming around them, and their attitudes most srulpture-like. 
They are all talking together, with that slightly metallic-sounding 
voice whicli seems one of their characteristics. The principal 
washerwoman claims me as a countrywoman, and with a patron- 
izing inclination of her woolly head — she is black as the blackest 
raven — inlijrms me graciously she is an Englishwoman : 

" I Ingles, tambiL-n ; I 'long to England ; si." 

England ! Did she come out of the Durham coal-mines, and 
had she never used soap and water since ? She quickly solved 
the mystery, by saying she was born in Jamaica. 



ci[Ai"JM': II X 1. 1 1 r. 

Ititoiilioii to ^n to liiiim — DiniiiM' to Kx-f-miiiiliiils — 'I'lu'iilriciilM in I'lUiiiinii 
— Tiibofj;!! — TIk! Ficiicli 'rixiloicss — 'I'Iki " lliippy Ship" — Ruiniiii ('iillinlid 
I'roec.s.sioii on (jJood l''ri(liiy — A iriiscliicvoiis 'I'rick — (!iiliroriiiii llioroti^lily 
AiiifrifMiiiizcil — ('iilil'orniiin Advciiliiicis und llic, Stcriiinlioiit Aj^ciit — Tliii 
iIcikJ Nc^ru — Miitihli Siiliiccls liiiiicd in I'luianiii — 'I'onr of Aiin'riciui 
l'ii|)erN in I'liuiiiim — .Sjtiril of lOnlcrprisc of tli<i AiiMii icims — Old l'iuiiini;i 
— Rt'|ilii(!,s and In.scrtH in I'anairiii — Mor^fan and U'ih IJiicciini-crh — 'I'liti 
PiraKiH and tli(i Spanish I'Mciit — W(^ahli said to hrivo hccn hiiiied liy iho 
Buceanccr.s — Aiii()ii<;an Jiovo oC inlclicclnal I'rogrcs.s. 

T iiAVK decided oil goiiif^ to Lima. I find J hIkiII tluiH liavo an 
op])oitiiiiil,y oiHcciii^ Kovural oth(!r plaooH — hesidcH llial iritiiicHliii;^ 
and lanious oily — on tlio woHlorii ooaKt ol' South Aiiiciicii,, and tlio 
HleamcTH an; said to bo lolcralily oomUirtaldo. 

Captain F , ol" J.f..JV1.S. " l)aj)lMK;," diiK^d lusni last iii<>lif;. 

Ho JH, I bcliove, just como f'roiii llcal(?Jo, and was btdiiio tliat at 
tlio l'\'j(!0 Jhlands. Ho told mo lio had invited tlio kiii^' ol' tlioHo 
iKlaiidH, a ri'olaimod cannihal, to diniior, with his ontiro oonrt. 
'I'lio invitation waH ac(;optod, and JIih IVIajosty and coiirtiors be- 
haved very properly. It muHt bo rather a iiervouH alliiir havin/j;' 
a ])arty ol" ex-cannibals to dinner. SnppoHo your viands slirjuhl 
not 1)0 to their taste, and in eonsocpienco haply a sudden pt'-u(;tion 
ol" old habits should take plaeo, and tho knife and li)rk should bo 
jilun^ed into tho hosts instead of into tho mutton and turkey ! 

(Japtain F tells mo nothinj^ has transpired that gives any 

hojies ol'poor Sir John Franklin being liiund. 

Mr. Cathervi'ood, the eminent artist, who exeoiitiid the spl(;ndiil 
drawings wliieh illustrate Mr. Sttiphens's celohrattid work on 
C'etitral America, is daily'expcctcd hero ; but his non-ap|)«!aranfo 
l<)r a length ol" tinu!, during which he has lieen " due" at this jjI.-km!, 
I)(!gins to create some slight luieaKiness res[)(^ctiiig his saliily and 
well-being. JIo is, I understand, surveying tlu; country — lin- tho 
7\me,ricaii Jlailroad Company, I believe. 

I have heard a very dillereiit acu^ount of the American theatri- 
cals hero since I. last S[)oko ol" them, and begin to think my inlorm- 
ant was over-lastidious. The coiripany are said to display a high 
order ol" talent, and much <!xperieiicc in the liiKtrioiiic art. it is 
said they playod "The Maid ol" Croissy," and "'J'he Swiss Cot- 



340 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

lage," exceedingly well. Mrs. Thome is reported to be a very 
good actress. 

Besides these theatricals, the detained Calilbrnians have to be- 
guile their time a little with divers other public amusements ; 
.such as tight-rope dancers, and slilt-waltzers (or still-vaulters) 
iVom Cartliagena. What tlie last are 1. know not; but they are 
supposed to exhibit much skill and grace. 

1 am al'raid 1 shall not see Taboga while I am here ; but wo 
shall ])ass close to it, 1 believe, in going to Buonaventura, the first 
place we shall stop at on our voyage to Peru. 

A Mr. Frique, who lately kept a French hotel here, has just 
opened a similar establishment in the island. IJe informs the 
])ublic, in an adverti.soment in one olthe Panama-American papers 
(of which there arc several, " The Star" and " The Kcho" very 
good, and well conducted), that his new hotel is situated on the 
Plaza ; and that, among other delectable treasures, it will have 
" Cigars ol' the most rcrlicrdic brands ;" but M. Frique will not 
reign alone monarch ot" all that is to be surveyed and purveyed in 
that place. 

A Captain Forbes intends to build a rival posada there, I see, 
in the newspapers ; " a hotel which is now on its way round the 
Horn." Perhaps they have made a little mistake, and it is on its 
M'ay across the Isthmus in that huge deal case we saw on an 
Indian's back. 

Taboga is said to be a charming place : the town consists of 
about a Jrundred cabins, with a number of stone houses belonging 
to the mdlionaires of the place ; and there is an extremely pic- 
turesque old Spanish church. This town is built along a beauti- 
i'ul beach, which is said to be half covered with the remains of 
former buildings, and where a whole fleet of canoes may often 
be seen laid uji. A lovely mountain stream comes dashing and 
sparkling down a gorge ol" the hills at the back of the settlement, 
and cros,ses the middle of it, on its course to the bay. This clear 
stream furnishes water to all the ships that visit Panama, in ad- 
dition to su[)plyiug the wants of the residents. The Americans, 
it seems, are going to build a great many houses at Taboga, in 
the course of time ; " and," says " The Echo," " like New York, 
Panama will then have a Staten Island and New Brighton." 

I have not mentioned the singular sight I saw the day when 

I went to call on Mrs. H , to take leave of her belbre she 

went to California. Hard at work, in a tailor's shop, which of 
course v^'as wide open to admit all possible air, was an apparently 



J 



'I'lIK FRl'.NCII TAILORESS. 341 

delicate-look iti;:( young jyreiK'-luiiaii, Htitoliinf;^ away u1, a coat. This 
was a French (Jcriioiscllc, or daino, who, lor some roaHori, a little 
time u'^o, perhapH at the niincH of (Jalil()ruia, teiiiporariiy adopted 
this ooHturiio, and has sin(;c oonliniK.-d it. She looked, i thouf^ht, 
a quiet, frcntio person, and was rernarkahiy industrious, stitcdiinj^ 
away with most praisijworthy vehetrK^nce, thou<fh the therrnoirie- 
ter rnijflit be at 100'\ J lor hair was cropped very short, an ad- 
vantaj^'-e in so oppressive a climate. 

lOurojKjans liere comjilain of the climate ruiniuf; both tlu-ir hair 
and their teeth. You hear somctimcH quite youni( ladies say they 
have lost almost all their teeth here, and have scarcely a solitary 
rinfi;let lelt. The native women, however, seem to have a vast 
abundance of the latter ornament. 

Several ol" the servants here arc natives, and I think they ap- 
pear to make very good ones. (The head servants are French 
and Italian.) One, a young Indian girl, rejoicies in the soft name 
ol'.llamona. She is, of course, excessively dark ; but is very pret- 
ty, with di.'licate, regular leatures. She has a soft, low voice — 
"an exccll<;nt thing in woman," whether while, black, or brown. 

An Illngiish gentleman has just arrived here from ('aliroruia, 

the son of Sir . lie went to San Francisco in a yacht, I 

believe, the joint property ol" a number of I'riends ; but this long 
voyage tried the tempers of these friends, it seems ; for, on relating 
his maritime and other adventures, we W(.'re surprised to learn that 
at almost every jjort they stopped at, a duel came off. " What a 
miserable ])arty you must have been ?" said a lady, who was list- 
ening to the disastrous account. "Oh, no; it was a very hajijiy 
ship." "ll(jw coulil that bo?" " Well, there certainly were a 
great many duels fought, but it was a very hapjty ship, indeed I" 

If this gentleman had ever made a voyage before, it must have 
been in a floating Fandernonitun ; ho that this seemed felicitous by 
contrast. 

Monsieur le C has called, and brought me some letters for 

Lima, one to M. do F , the French commodore, whose frigate 

is supposed to be now at Lima, lie is inarried to a young lady 
of Irish descent, who is said to he a very charming jierson. 

Would the reader like a brief ac(!ount of a Catholic religious 
procession in this city on (iood Ij'riday ? The skies were of the 
most cloudless azure ; the weather most glorious, and not insufliir- 
ably hot ; and the moon poured a sea of silver light over every 
thing. A large number of Americans were collected in di/li.'rent 
groups, anxiously watcliing the proceedings. Tliey appeared to gaze 



342 'J'RAVELS IN AMERICA. 

with deej) and intelligent interest (not a mere empty curiosity — a 
far more intellectual feeling) on a solemn pageant so new to most 
of them, and which was naturally associated, in their inquiring and 
cultivated minds, with all the mystery, the religion, and the his- 
tory of the past, and which appeared to their imaginations linked 
with all the powerful memories of those dark, and mighty, and 
wondrous ages, when the whole civilized globe trembled at the 
awful thunders of the Vatican — they thought of the time when 
all the migliliest powers of Poetry, Harmony, Architecture, Ora- 
tory, Sculpture, and Painting — all that influences and impresses 
the mind, all that quickens the sympathies, all that electrifies and 
elevates the imagination — were used with such overpowering ef- 
fect by those who theu swayed and directed at their will the whole 
Christian World. That crowd of spectators formed in itself an 
impressive and significant sight : it was the Young World gazing 
on the Old. 

The fust part of the procession was composed of men and chil- 
dren, carrying long and large candles, burning. These wore fol- 
lowed by penitential banners and a Cross. The procession inoved 
to the sound of sacred music ; and in due order came the civil and 
military authorities, some of them in very magnidcent uniforms, 
and bearing the flag of New Granada. Then came a representa- 
tion of the Holy Sepulclu'e : it consisted of a pyramidal structure 
of lour floors, on each of which were placed large lighted candles, 
in glass shades, ranged as nearly together as it was possible to be, 
aiul all encircled and decorated with a profusion of brightly-colored 
flowers and glittering ribbons. The ellect was very brilliant, and 
borne after this were several other splendidly-illuminated struc- 
tures of less symbolical importance, but almcst equally resplendent 
and su[)erb. Then followed a number of lovely senoritas, clad in 
the deepest black, and each bearing a lighted taper in her hand. 
In diflerent parts of the ])rocessioii were to be seen religious en- 
thusiasts and devotees, both male and female, who were shrouded 
in sable drapery ; the former of whom continually scourged them- 
selves with great ap])arent earnestness and frightful severity. Ac- 
companying these were priests, and chanters, and choristers, I 
believe ; and as the loud sound of the musical instruments died 
softly away, and the sweet melody of the chant, and the breath 
of" the incense charmed the sense, the scene seemed more imposing 
and touching than belbre. 

I^en magnificent tombs were erected in the ten principal churches 
of the city ; some were decorated in a style of ea.stern splendor at 



A MISCHIEVOUS TRICK. 343 

night, and mado resplendent by myriads of candles. In front 
of ihem, and on the altar, were illuminated vases, groves of artifi- 
cial and natural flowers, &c. During all the evening, numbers 
of men and women went from one church to the other, reciting 
prayers for the heavenly welliire of the strangers in the cily. 

1 have talceu a good deal of this account from one of the Ameri- 
can papers, but am sorry to add that the writer, in the middle of 
his narration, flies into uncontrollable raptures with the delicate 
hands and fairy leet of the Panamanian Heriuritas. It appears, 
besides, that at the close of the grand procession, from the Church 
de la Merced, a disagreeable incident arose. 'Die spectators, and 
all there, were alarmed and disturbed by a creature rushing among 
them at a furious pace, and making what tlie Americans call a 
regular stampede. Some mi.schievous ])erson, it seemed, had 
caught a donkey, and attached a dry budiilo hide, with diabolical 
ingenuity, to the elongation of his spinal process, and he conceived 
he rnTght rid himself of the inconvenient appen<lage, by making a 
Budderi and terrific descent upon the procession. 

It accomplished this, and the speedy dispersion of the crowd at 
the same time. The culprit was finally "comprehended as a 
wagrant," and the procession again moved on. But it seemed the 
prestige was gone after this unlucky donkey-a.s-trophe, and the de- 
viser of this vile trick rejoiced in its full success. Was he an emis- 
sary from Exeter Hall ? 

One of the sad consequences of carrying fire-arms always about 
the person, occurred here a few days ago. A man named James 
Parker died of a gun-shot wound inflicted by a companion of his ; 
the poor man survived the wound more tlian a fortnight, most of 
that time suflering great pain. So ended the golden dreams of 
California for this unfortunate sufferer. 

Glancingat the newspapers here, you might almost imagine you 
were in one of the bu.sy cities of the model republic. I see an an- 
nouncement that the "New York Hotel is situated here in the 
main street, in the very centre of trade." In anticipation of the 
promised llailroad, 1 hear they are already about to erect a " ilail- 
road Hotel" at Gorgona ; in short, wherever there is an Ameri- 
can, there is America : he carries his country about with him, and 
his unremitting industry and perseverance subjugate all around him. 

California by all accounts, is almost thoroughly Americanized, 
notwithstanding the large number of settlers from other parts of 
the world. But in a Califbrnian newspaper, it is very common to 
see a strange mixture of American and Mexican terms " Ayunla- 



314 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

miontos," and regulations about " tlic polls," " Independent tickets," 
and " Proniuiciuinicntos," " alcades," and "justices of the peace," 
all mingled together. 1 hear there are now, notwithstanding the 
late departures, three thousand Americans in Panama. However, 
a great many are going oil' in sailing vessels, as well as in steamers. 

A little time ago, a large number who had through tickets lor 
the " Tennessee," were awaiting that steamer here, and she did not 
make her appearance till long after the time that she was due. 
This caused great inconvenience, and consequently immense dis- 
satisfaction, although generally the Americans take contretemps 
like this very philosophically — but they suspected some Ibul play, 
it seemed. Large meetings were held, and committees appointed 
to wait on the agent of the Pacific mail line of steam-ships (Amer- 
ican) here. The agent promised to do all he could ; but that 
proved to be nothing, and the malcontents became more indignant 
and more furious still. Some of these were for seizing the steam- 
er "Panama" (which was lying at Taboga island), vi et armis, 
and instantly proceeding to San Francisco ; others were for march- 
ing on the agent's office, and taking possession of all the old ink- 
stands, desks, books, and spy-glasses belonging to the company, and 
" holding on to them" as collateral security, for the supposed dama- 
ges sustained. 

The whole town of Panama was in a state of uproar, and the 
graphic chronicler of these events says : " And now the tide of in- 
dignation began to swell and heave mountain-high, every stream 
sent its torrent, every rivulet sent its rill, and lo ! the avalanche, 
the grand climax of desperation, was at hand I" On Tuesday, 
the disappointed passengers had a grand meeting in the Great Pla- 
za. Gloom and wrath sate " in mirrored armor," says the poet- 
ical narrator, " on the brows of the desponding." Every thing 
looked threatening and angry, when s\uldenly a low rumbling 
noise, increasing as it rolled on, till it was like the roar of a 
" young earthquake," in long petticoats, bib and tucker, announced 
the "Tennessee!" "Has she arrived?" "Well, she has." 
" Thus they still repeated the reverberating sound, and on the 
glad tidings flew like a streak of flogged lightning :" and soon 
like a great leviathan of the Pacific, the noble ship came careering 
along, toward the anchorage of the bay. As she neared the 
place of mooring a ileaf'ening huzza shook the air, almost Hke a 
broadside, and loudly arose the chorus of that spirited song ; 

"Away down in Tennessee, 
A li, e li, o li, u li.'' 



GRAVE-YARD IN PANAMA. 345 

All then became calm and serene, and they went home, singing : 
"Corn cob, twist your hair — cart-wheel surround you," or some 
such merry ditty. 

The grave-yard of Panama is a melancholy place : it is sur- 
rounded with Avails, in which the interments are made. These 
walls have apertures in the shape of an oven to admit the corpse; 
and when after decay the bones become dry, they are removed to 
make room lor new bodies. The tops of the walls of the gloomy 
inclosure are coii.stantly strewn with skull-bones, and the corners 
of this melancholy burial ground are crowded with the relics of 
mortality. 

Also outside the gates are graves. An American editor says, 
he saw there the other day a horrible sight — the arm of a dead 
negro protruding about ten or twelve inches out of the ground in 
a state of advanced decomposition. The writer says he could not 
judge whether this was done designedly, or through carelessness, 
or whether the poor wretched negro, recovering from some swoon, 
came to life after he was buried, and weakly thrust his arm out 
thus for help, to rescue him, from what the relator rather mildly 
calls "his unpleasant situation I" It is said the arm has since 
been covered over. 

I suppose from this, the negroes here are not buried in con- 
secrated ground, as the frightful spectacle was beyond the gates. 
The burial ground where foreigners are interred is a short distance 
removed from the native cemetery, and is a small inclosure walled 
in, and shaded by some noble trees. There are several large 
tombstones there. 

The late British Consul, I believe, built this small square, and 
occupies a place in it : a stone slab is erected to his memory. There 
is a tombstone, with an inscription to the memory of " Leonard 
Childers, one of the Secretaries to the British Legation at the 
Congress of Panama, who died at this place of the yellow fever, 
July IGlh, 182G, aged 21 years;" and another "Sacred to the 
Memory of John James Le Mesurier," who came to Panama, also 
as " Secretary to Mr. Dawkins, Commissioner from the King of 
England to the Congress of Panama. He had not been here a 
fortnight when he was seized with the fever of this country, and 
died at the age of 18, on the 14th of June, 182G, cut down like the 
promise of a flower half-blown, while others live to weep him." It 
is said, three weeks after their arrival they fell ill and died. 

The American editor of " The Echo" indulges in a very noble 
strain of feehng in dwelling on this subject, and recapitulating 



34G TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

these mc4ancholy details. He says : " After reading the above, 
thoiioh au American, we felt proud that we were the descendants 
of British ancestors. Wherever she finds her subjects in foreign 
climes, England throws over them the mantle of protection" (not 
Protectionists' protection I) ; " to the living, she points to the lion 
and the unicorn, and the Cross of St. George, as the shield of 
delense ; and to the dead, -whose memories deserve memento, she 
erects tombs and monuments to perpetuate their deeds and worth. 
The country which produced such a poet as Gray, knew well 
when and where to erect a ' storied urn or animated bust' to the 
memory of her departed sons. We honor the man who loves the 
land of his birth, and we admire and respect the government which 
cherishes the valor and renown of her warriors and her civilians. 

" But to proceed. A little farther on, we saw several newly- 
made graves — the final resting-places, doubtless, of some of our ad- 
venturous countrymen. A number of them had no board to in- 
dicate their name, or state from whence they came I Those that 
had an inscription on their headstones we give below." (Then 
follow the names of a few of the writer's countrymen.) 

To have a thoroughly good and most extensive view of the baj', 
the ocean, the islands, the forests, and a hundred miles of shore, 
the visitor to Panama should ascend the bold steep called the Cerro 
Lancon. About five in the morning, before the intense heat com- 
mences, is the best time. I have not been able to attempt it in 
consequence of this "rose-asthma" I have had. 

There was a robbery the other day at the Western Hotel (about 
1200 dollars Avere stolen). A man was suspected, and he, finding 
himself about to be arrested, ran ofij but was closely pursued, and 
near " Theatre-lane," he threw a M'atcli over the walls. He was 
secured, and tlie watch Avas found, with the glass broken, of course : 
it is said it was stolen from a p;issenger at the hotel about three 
weeks ago. When charged with the robbery, he acknowledged 
he had stolen the gold watch, but denied any knowledge of or par- 
ticipation in the recent theft of the money. When it was made 
apparent that he had stolen the watch, the crowd " wei'e for Lynch- 
ing him on the spot, and but for the intervention of Mr. Vinton," 
says the journal, " would have accomplished their purpose." He 
was committed to jail to await his trial. A reward of three 
hundred dollars has been ofiered for the detection of the robber or 
robbers and return of the money, or two hundred dollars for the 
restoration of the money only. 

Nothing can be better than the tone in general of the American 



AMERICAN PAPERS. 34: 



papers established liero. They are the sworn enemies of all dis- 
•order and demoralization, and the consistent advocates and sup- 
porters of justice and right. I see in the papers that Lynch law- 
is most uncompromisingly condemned. Earnestly do " we depre- 
cate such a course of procedure ; it is subversive of all law and 
the most sacred right? of the citizen ; it should be irowned down 
by all well-thinking men." 

What a wonderful people the Americans are ! One finds one- 
self continually repeating- this mentally, when hearing of, or seeing 
their indomitable determination and force of character. What a 
wonderful peo})le, individually and collectively! Some time ago, 

many left Panama, Mr. P informs me, in old whale-boats, in 

the "dug-outs" of the natives, which they converted into a rough 
kind of schooner, and in iron boats. One of these iron boats was 
dragged across the isthmus by fifty or sixty men, and went safely, 
1 believe, to San Francisco ; but they put out to sea in many 
wretched vessels, entirely miseaworthy. When Mr. Bayard 
Taylor was here, he said many siiuill companies of men started in 
the miserable log-canoes of the natives lor J^l Dorado, and after a 
forty days' voyage, during which time they only reached the Island 
of Quibo, at the mouth of the Gull', the greater part returned : tjie 
remainder had not been heard of. 

Old Panama, built by the conqueror Pizarro, is at some dis- 
tance from the comparatively modern town ; it is further up the 
coast. The present city was built in 1670 ; but when I look at 
its extraordinary state of decay and dilapidation, it is really diffi- 
cult to believe it is not far older. In how much better repair is 
Pompeii I 

There do not seem to be many pleasant M'alks or rides near the 
city, by all accounts. When you have pas.«ed through the neigh- 
boring orchards and gardens, begin the dense woods, through which 
there are some narrow mule-paths, and of which the embowering, 
entangled, and thickly-accumulated underwood is completely im- 
penetrable to the outward air. There is a malaria, too, arising 
from the always enormous quantity of decaying vegetable matter, 
so you may stand a chance of being asphyxizcd or poisoned. 

Then the reptiles and insects are too endless for me to attempt 
any enumeration of them, beyond the more familiar names of 
musquitoes, garrapatos, centipedes, scorpions, poisonous spiders, 
tarantulas, snakes, ants, and jiggers. The ants, by the way, eat 
away the houses here ; when once they have efiected a lodgment, 
the beams quickly crumble away \mder their virulent attacks. 



318 TRAVELS IN AMEllICA. 

There are others that destroy ])aper, and others, again, that inalce 
it. There are great niiiubers of 'ivhigcd ants here — such httle 
torments ! They seem to be constantly devising diflerent ingenious 
methods of worrying you, lor they fly about your head and face, 
and when you think you have succeeded in driving tlicrn away, 
they suddenly drop their wings entirely, and follow this up by 
dropping themselves on your book, and rapidly crawling all over 
the open page. If you are drinking a glass of lemonade, you find 
it suddenly covered with floating ants' wings, that stick in your 
throat and half choke you. If the little wretches would consult 
their looking-glasses, they would save us that annoyance perhaps, 
lor they are tolerably well-favored insects with wings, and fright- 
fully ugly little plagues without. 

Here comes a shower of wings on my paper. Are the little 
rogues turned poetical ? and do they mean figuratively to bid the 
letter " haste, haste, post haste ?" a sentence our good old fore- 
fathers were wont to write on their scrolls ; they who did not 
know what liasle meant I when very Time seemed to have 
dropped his wings, like these identical ants, and to go limping 
along with a crutch and a gouty shoe. Their world, indeed, stood 
on a tortoise, as some of the eastern nations say. 

The American population resident here, and in the neighbor- 
hood, are talking of organizing a police of their own, to prevent 
brawls, burglaries, and street-fights. All kinds of strange accounts 
come in from California : among other things it is said a man was 
actually starved to death in a place called the " Happy Valley." 
He was found quite dead, after having literally gnawed and eaten 
the flesh from his own arms in the desperate -struggle with the 
icy King of Terrors. There are a great many terrible stories of 
suicide and madness, and horrors and misery of all kinds there. 

I believe the settlers suflcr a great deal in going there, very 

often, too. Mr. P says some time since a small ship, or 

rather boat, started, so crowded with emigrants to California, that 
it bore the greatest possible resemblance to a human bee-hive, 
and that literally the unfortunate, half-suflbcated passengers might 
be seen seated in a long row on the edge, with their legs and 
feet dangling in the water, thus attempting to keep themselves 
cool. 

There are a good many shops here, but articles in general 
seem very dear. House-rent appears to be enormously high, and 

Mr. P pays as much or more for his house, unfurnished and 

unfinished (for he had to do almost every thing to it short of build- 



MORGAN AND HIS PIRATES. 349 

itig the walls), as is demanded for a first-rate house in one of the 
most fashionable parts of London. 

I have already mentioned that Old Panama was destroyed by 
the buccaneers in 1670, under the noted Morgan. In 1685, a vast 
number of Filibustieros, or Buccaneers, in three companies, came 
from Mantanzas (in Cuba) and from the Caribbean Sea, and shaped 
their course to this part of the continent, and after encountering 
immense difficulties, and experiencing fearful hardships, they cross- 
ed the land in about a fortnight, and arrived at the Pacific shore. 
One of these companies was formed of one hundred and t\\-cnty 
Englishmen ; the second of one hundred and seventy Frenchmen ; 
the third of two hundred and sixty persons, who were also French. 

They arrived at a bay called Bocachica, and there they found 
two canoes, Avhich had been sent to meet them by the allied bucca- 
neers, French and English, whose fleet was cruising in the vicin- 
ity of this city. After a little repose they started for some islands 
called the King's Islands, about ninety miles from Panama, where 
they met the fleet, which was now composed of ten vessels — two 
frigates, four ships, three barques, and one brig. Out of the ten 
commanders, eight were English, one French, and the other 
Dutch ; this last was the Admiral, and he was called David. 
The number of men in the vessels was eleven hundred. Most of 
these vessels had been taken by some Englishmen under com- 
mand of David, and brought through the Straits of Magellan to 
the Pacific Ocean. 

The chief now resolved to attack the Spanish fleet, which at 
that time of the year usually came from Lima to Panama ; the 
first expedition they made, however, was to seize on the city of 
Seppa, about twenty-one miles east of Panama : five hundred men 
were engaged in this expedition, who embarked in about two-and- 
twentv large war-canoes. Seppa was taken, but it contained 
comparatively little treasure ; so that the disappointed pirates 
looked on this expedition as a serious loss of time, with very little 
profit. In May they left Seppa, and returned to their ships, which 
were waiting at a little distance from the town. 

Then the fleet weighed anchor, and started to the westward, 
along the coast toward Panama. They passed on the 8th of May 
in sight of the ruins of Old Panama, which had been destroyed by 
Morgan, and a great number of the very men who were then 
actually in this fleet in the later expedition. They shortly after- 
ward reached the present town of Panama, and went down to the 
island of Taboga, which island, says the chronicler of these events, 



3,J0 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

seemed to them a perfectly enchanted spot, so admirable was the 
beauty of its vegetation, and so splendid the ediiices constructed 
there by the M'ealthy inhabitants of Panama. The pirates, on 
the 9th and 10th of May, were anxiously employed in "watching 
for the appearance of the expected Spanish fleet. 

At last, on the 17th of that month, scvcmi noble ships were seen 
corning toward the buccaneers, with the rnyal Spanish flag nailed 
to the mast-head. The fleet of the Fiiibuslieros rejoiced heartily 
at this sight, exclaiming that their hopes were about to be realized, 
and that the great struggle was at hand. None but those who 
have either gazed upon or participated in an ocean battle, can 
paint to their imagination the tremendous scene which shortly 
alter was exhibited on the great Pacific, when these two hostile 
fleets met " in concerted array," on the foam-crested billows. For 
the desperate and lawless corsairs, it would either be a victory that 
would place them almost at the summit of their proudest hopes, or 
a complete annihilation of their powers and their terrors. Like 
the pirate-scourei'S and sea-bandits of the Gulf, their flag displayed 
the ghastly death's head and bones, and theyr were doggedly re- 
solved to a man, to sink or swim under their almost worshiped 
piratical banner. The admirals of the two opposing fleets, with 
their forces drawn up in the order of fight, were met to dispute 
the sovereignty and supremacy of the great South Sea ; for, in- 
deed, at that period few vessels, save those of the Filibustieros and 
the Spaniards, cruised in the Pacific Ocean. 

The battle Avas long contested, and at one time the Spaniards 
had the decided advantage over their opponents, and would have 
had a most comjjlete triumph ; but unfortunately for them they 
lacked a skillful and experienced commander to direct their oper- 
ations, and this proved, of course, a most serious drawback to their 
cause. The pirates had their vessels greatly injured, and found 
themselves obliged to fly in all directions, and land on divers 
points of the coast, to repair their armament. But although over- 
come in the first skirmish they were not destroyed, and without 
considering their material and numerical inferiority, they sailed 
again on the 26th of June for Panama, recruited in spirits, confi- 
dent in hope, and with all their vessels repaired. The Spaniards 
in the interim had fortified the city, and with their vessels in good 
order were waiting, thoroughly prepared to encounter their deadly 
and relentless foe. 

But the cunning Filibustierios, seeing they had no chance of 
then overpoM-ering their adversaries, or attacking theni with the 



ATTACK ON PANAMA. 351 

faintest prospect of victory, abandoned for a time tlie enterprise, 
and went on smaller expeditions along the coast, assailing and 
Backing cities, and plundering vessels wherever they could find any 
treasure worthy their attention. 

Among these lesser expeditions, one of the most important wa.<? 
directed against the city of Realejo, 795 miles west of Panama, 
liealejo was taken and burnt down in October, together with a 
considerable number of towns and villages in the vincinity. At 
the beginning of the year 1G8G, the buccaneers with their fleets, 
directed their course toward the city of Panama, and, as they had 
previously done, made Taboga their head-quarters. After having 
made their depot secure by strengthening and fortifying it as well 
as tliey could, they resolved on losing no time in making an on- 
slaught on the city; and they obliged the President of Panama 
(as a preliminary measure to their operations) to surrender all the 
prisoners the Spaniards had taken in the previous ferocious en- 
gagements on these waters. They then seized all the provisions 
in the place, to sustain them in their lawless career ; and after 
that, they made a further demand on the President, insisting on 
his paying six thousand dollars ; to which demand, backed by so 
formidable a force, the President submitted. 

Emboldened by their success, the freebooters, with their usual 
audaciousness, again made a levy of ten thousand dollars on the 
President, to which the Spanish chief magistrate, though with 
reluctance and deep humiliation, was compelled by circumstances 
to submit. Tlie buccaneers, having extorted these sums of money, 
returned, well pleased with their success ; and they proceeded up 
the Bay of Panama. 

The pirates during the years 1G8G and 1G87 haunted the sea- 
coast of Central America, and successively seized on all the pros- 
perous and flourishing cities which the Spaniards had built in that 
part ol'thc world, liealejo, Acapulco, and Tequilla were taken and 
plundered by them. A party of the Filibustieros sailed in one of 
their vessels, and went as far as California, where they found some 
Spanish settlements and missions already established. But the El 
Dorado of the present time was then not known to possess such 
golden attractions; and as the promise of plunder and booty in 
those regions appeared to be small, they resolved to abandon the 
now far-famed land, as not presenting sufficient charms or guer- 
dons for their bold exploits and intrepid achievements. — It was 
said of old, the inhabitants of the "Eureka State" were so poor, 
they lived upon fried grasshoppers. 



352 TRAVELS liN AMERICA. 

Tho bnccanoers, wherever they presented themselves, were com- 
monly successful : but at length the Spaniards, becoiniiig more 
accustomed to their peculiar mode ol" warfare, Ibrtiliod their cities, 
and increased their defenses ; while the pirates, from leading a 
rough, roving, and irregular life, exposed to countless hardships 
ami privations, were being diminished day by day ; so that, toward 
the tennination of their wonderful career iu the Pacific, a mere 
skeleton of tliis once-poweriiil banded force of ocean brigands was 
left as a small nucleus, around Avliich to muster and rally their 
marauding and piratical forces. Whenever there was a city de- 
stroyed by these corsairs, the Spaniards immediately reconstruct- 
ed it again, f()rtilled it with the strongest-walled barriers, and liir- 
nislu'd it with guns of the heaviest eahbre. 

The buccaneers, having succeeded iu accumulating immense 
hoards of treasure, tired of their life of lawless enterprise, and with 
their best leaders growing gray and superannuated, resolved at 
length to abandon their ])illaging and piracies of the Southern Seas 
and the cities of the coast, and to return home, leaving their extra- 
ordinary deeds and works behind them, li)r the wonder, the admira- 
tion, or condemnation of after ages. 

In the year 1088, they returned to the shores of the Atlantic, 
directing their footsteps across the Isthmus of Panama, by tho 
same route they had taken in their unhallowed pilgrimage wesl- 
Avard. The terrible piratical flag of the death's head and bones 
never more streamed in hideous ascendency over the mighty waters 
of the Pacific, as if the King of Terrors himself were watching for 
his prey, determined that the bright waves of the Southern Seas 
should vie with the graves of Earth in concealing the mouldering 
remains of mortality. 

This is a brief sketch of the last famous voyage of the bucca- 
neers iu the Paeilic. It a))pears to be very connnonly believed 
that they did not carry with them (when they abandoned their 
life of peril and plunder) all the vast, the almost unbounded riches 
they had aecuuudaled, by perpetually pillaging vessels, and sack- 
ing flourisliiug antl wealthy cities. 

JMany historians and narrators have thought (and it is said that 
a great number of persons in Panama believe it) that they deposited 
an enormous amount of wcallh (specie and heaps of jewels) under- 
ground, in some of tho islands which were their usual j)laees of 
rendezvous, in the intervals of their daring expeditions, Avhich 
costly treasures they did not, from various reasons, dig up from 
their hiding-places. These islands arc situated between Panama 



THE AMERICAN PRESS. 353 

and Ileiilcjo, all ii\ou<y Uio coaHt. Tu lalo tiinos somo exploring 
parties have boon orffauizod to sook in tlioso looalilios lor ilw. spola 
■where it is supposed some of these valuable treasures were hidden. 
No satisl'aetory disooveries have been made as yet ; no preeious 
jewels, no heaps oi' j;cold, no ehests oC silver bullion, have sliono 
ibrlh, to reward the treasure-hunter's toil. To this Jiour, it ajipears, 
tlie earth, to whose keopiufjf the feathered spoils were eoniided, has 
^••uardtul the wealth in her secret recesses. 

There are a {^reat many dillieulties in the w.iy of tli(> explonsrs; 
but, il" the tale be true, J have no doubt that, sooner or later, tho 
indel;iti;4able hands of Americans will succeed in diseudiowidiufif 
the treasures, and f^^ivinjj; back to the li^fht of day the pre(;ious spoils 
that rewarded tlw^ introi)id cMitorjjrises and I'earloss adventures of 
tho i'amous and poworliil i'^ilibustieros. There are, however, 
nobler objects lor the Americans to direct their minds toward ac- 
complishing. 

lioJivar, thouffli rloubtless be in some respects, revolutionized 
the minds ol" the people, and made them Iriends oi" liberty, yet did 
little more lor their advancement or their enlifrhtenment. lie lei't 
behind him nothin<r, hero at least it would seem, that could cou- 
tribnto cither toward the intellectual elevation oI' their minds, or 
to tho enlargement oi'tlieir stores ol" knowledge. It is said thoro 
is an educational iustitiition here, not much superior to :in infant 
school in i'highind. The industrial pursuits of peace are but poorly 
and s(Mntily developed, and the Amerienns may, and I doubt not 
will do much in time by their ennglitoued exam[)le and assistance 
in awakening the dormant energies of the peo])lo, and improving 
their intellec^tual condition generally. Wherever an Ameri(^an 
goes, there springs up his I'ree press — the constant accompaniment 
of his lootsteps. 

Jt is asserted that during the Mexit^an war the Americans had 
news])apers constantly ])rintod to amuse their an.xious and weary 
hours, animate and lighten their labors, and reconcile them to 
hardships and privations of all kinds. An American looks upon 
his daily press and his daily bread as ecpially necessary to his ex- 
istence. 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

The probable Future of Panama — South American Railroads projected — 
Golil-seckers in Panama — Large Importation of Fruit-trees into California 
— American Improvements in Panama — Alle<i;ed Ill-treat (r.v?nt of Emi- 
grants I)}' Ship-owners — The Green Mountain Yankee — The Indians and 
the damp Gunpowder. The Government of New Granada — Its recent 
Policy. 

What will be the future of Panama, it is impossible Avilh any 
precision to say. Situated as it is about midway between Patago- 
nia and the United States' po.sscssions up to the confines of Oregon, 
it is most favorably placed ; and its commercial facilities in this 
central ])Osition, are almost unrivaled by any port on the western 
side of this great continent nearer than Valparaiso in the south, or 
San Francisco in the west. 

If it ever has a railroad or a canal connecting the waters of the 
two oceans, terminating at this point or in the vicinity, it would 
be scarcely possible to exaggerate the enormous magnitude and 
amount of the trade, which would follow the completion of cither 
of these means of transit and oceanic intercommunication. What 
an immensity of traffic would necessarily centre here I How would 
this wretchedly dilapidated city spring up from ruin and decay, and 
more tlian regain its ])ristine splendor ! how would it extend its 
dimensions ; recruit its impoverished finances, and probably become 
at no very distant })eriod the capital and the commercial metrop- 
olis of a wealthy and wide-spread empire. 

The products of China and Japan, and the innumerable fabrics 
of eastern climes and lands, would assuredly seek this as the easiest 
and most direct communication with the United States and with 
Europe ; and the route of Cape Horn, so tedious and perilous, would 
be entirely abandoned. How would the flags of all the nations of 
the world be reflected on the waters of this beautiful bay I 

The government of New Granada appears to be a very liberal 
government, on the whole ; and from all I can collect, it seems to 
be nearly th-? best of the South American republican governments 
altogether. The President, in his message last month, was able 
to say: "New Granada is at peace with all the neighboring re- 
publics, and tile great Powers of the North, and of Europe. While 
llie other republics of South America are still disturbed by internal 



RAILROADS IN SOUTH AMERICA. 355 

troubles, New G ranada .presents the spectacle of peace and happi- 
ness." 

I believe the same steamer in which we are poing to Lima will 
convey to Callao in Peru and to Chili the engineers who are en- 
gaged to superintend the formation of the first railroads ever con- 
structed in South America. An American company is going to 
commence a line in Chili from the port of Caldcra, on the Pacific 
Ocean, to Copiapo, in the mining district of that country, about 
fifty-five miles from the sea-board. The chief and most active di- 
rectors of this company are natives of the United States, who have 
been lor many years resident in Chili, and have justly acquired a 
very considerable influence there by their character for enterprise, 
their liberality, and public spirit. 

Copiapo, in the province of Coquimbo, is above 500 miles north 
of Valparaiso, in one of the most productive of the mining districts 
of Chili. It is said to be about 1100 feet above the Pacific, and 
the road will be 55 miles long, with descending grades from that 
point to the coast, the grades not to exceed fifty feet to the mile in 
any part. The engines are made by Messrs. Norris, of the United 
States, and the cars, and turn-tables, and the entire equipment of 
the road, are made in the United States. The iron ibr the rails, 
I believe, came irom England. The other line is much shorter, 
being only from Callao to Lima, about eight miles. 

These, the first two railroads in South America, are almost cer- 
tain to be successful, and will introduce, under i'avorable auspices, 
to this vast continent, one of the most prominent features of modern 
civilization and prosperity. It is an era, indeed, for the jicople of 
these regions. 

Americans still keep pouring into Panama ; for steamers are 
continually coming to Chagres, bringing large parties of emigrants. 
We hear that several have lately lost their way in the dense for- 
ests of the isthmus. It often becomes indispensably necessary to 
lighten the ascending canoes (overloaded as they frequently are) 
about six miles below Gorgona, and the passengers are required to 
fmd their own way as best they can to that place. They usually 
try to take a path across the country ; but as it is exceedingly dif- 
ficult to do this, they often miss their way, and many of them 
acquire, unwillingly, a great deal of topographical knowledge from 
having to pass a weary night among the woods and hills ; but it 
sometimes ends seriously. 

Mr. Montague, an American gentleman, told me the other day 
he had heard some dead bodies had been found in the forest, which, 



356 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

there was too much reason to suppose, were the remains of some 
of his unfortunate countrymen. 

We bepin to hke much tlie style of living here, and especially 
the cool, light architecture of the houses : the rooms are invariably 
high, and the Avindows and doors very large. In these hot coun- 
tries, in general, by the way, it seems the heights of the natives' 
houses might serve as a kind of thermometer, to inform the traveler 
of the average degrees of heat. It appears that the temperature 
instinctively, to a certain extent, determines the elevation. Where 
there is great heat, the habitations are enormously high, and where 
the atmosphere is subject occasionally to chilly damps, or the place 
is exposed to winds more or less violent, the roofs are proportionally 
lower. They generally build their houses, in the native villages, 
on a raised bank of earth. 

In all the warm regions the invaluable bamboo furnishes " the 
upriijhts" at the angles of the proposed edifice, and the jambs of the 
doorways ; and when the heat is uninterrupted and uniform, mats 
of the palm iisually, and other easily-appropriated materials, form 
the slight partitions within and without (in most of the houses 
there are only the canes for walls). Every where the thatched or 
tiled roof presents a spacious veranda, an open colonnade, which 
surrounds the house (of enormous dimensions in some of the better 
houses), which veranda is in fact a continuation of the sloping 
line of the roof beyond the upright partitions, and either a length- 
ening of the rafter-like timbers of the roof resting their termina- 
tions on a line of perpendicular posts beyond the wall of the house, 
or an addition iiiade after the construction of the simple edifice. 

I hear that for several days past a number of the detained Cal- 
ifornians have been washing with bowls and tin pans the earth 
and sand near the breaches in the ancient wall on the south side 
of Panama. There were rumors that some sparkling dust had 
been observed by persons accidentally wandering in that vicinity. 
The eager emigrants (hoping they had detected a rival to the 
mighty gold-dust-bin, California I) instantly began to dig out the 
vast mass of rubbish scattered about in that neighborhood, think- 
ing any thing that glittered on the Pacific coast must be gold ; but 
on carefully testing the produce of their day's zealous labors, they 
ibund they had got nothing but the scorious refuse I'rom some 
Spanish bell-casting or cannon-founding of olden times. 

I mentioned that we had seen emerge from the cavernous hold 
of the " Georgia" a small forest of trees, as if Irom that " oak levi- 
athan" were sprouting numerous younger branches. It appears 



FlUUT-TKERS FOll CALIFORNIA. 357 

jnobablo that ihoy belonjiod to a Mr. Booth, of New Jorsoj', who 
is takiiijr with liiiii to the J']l Dorado about thirty tliousami IViiit- 
trccs. Wbat a beiicl'actor is this orchard-phiiiter to all the I'uturo 
httle sohool-boys of tlic (Jold IState I Wiio iluos tlio most pood, tho 
leader in wars and iiisiurcclioiis, or Ihc ])ubH(;s|)irilcd individual 
who benovolonlly adopts means to provide posterity with tlie bless- 
inps of i)umpkin-pies, or seeks to lighten the labors of loarninp- by 
allbrdinp tho eheerinp consolations of apple-dumplinps ? Apples, 
too, grown in sueh a soil I Must no't every pippin bo a golden 
])i))])in, and indeed every apple C(pial to tho ouo lor which thrco 
goddesses disputed ? 

The ,l"]l Doradians are loo good-natured to Lo angry with me for 
a little Calilbrniau e]iitaph 1 made tho other day : 

FvIimk's ! but, let mc for mvliilo in this anriffroiis soil roninin, 

TliiMi, wIk'ii t'liiiiigcd tt) gokl-tliisij iljo nil- up, iiiul (iiko mo lionio ngaiii. 

We arc informed that American im])rovemcnts are thronging fast 
in njHMi the I'anamanians. A genuine Yankee hand-carl has been 
seen in tlie Pla/a, the iirst vehicle of the kind ever witnessed hero 
— at least within the memory of man. There is an ox-cart, 
besides, just established li)r heavy goods, drawn by a solenui-look- 
ing jiair of oxen, partieiilaily dihitory in their movements, who 
are tugged along by a mozo, by means of a rojie in their noses. 
"Clear the track !" cry the Americans, who are charmed at theso 
signs of coming improvements, ami hail the innovations heartily. 

Several of the steamers over-due have not yet arrived, and much 
discontent conlinnes to prevail. Some of the poor passengers havo 
not hesitated to say they considered themselves swindled out of 
their money ; others declare they have already submitted to cruel 
hardships and impositions. I hear that many of them protest they 
were shown a diagram of the ship (a most perfect model) they 
were to take their passage in, and tho exact position of their berth 
was pointed out to them; but they were soon lamentably un- 
deceived : they were thrust, they say, into a dillerent (juarter from 
that which had been shown to them, and instead of a berth, an 
atrocious invention of tho enemy called a " standee" (a miserable 
thing, made to be just put np at night for the f//i;-acconnnodation 
of the unlucky martyrs) was substituted. Yet they all look as 
good-himiored as ever, when by chance j'ou see them sauntering 
about, anil trying to do nothing, which seems very ilillieult to them 
— a herculean task, indeed ! 

1 nuist give tho reader, for his edification, an account of a son 



358 TRAVELS JN AMERICA. 

of tho Green Mountains, in the United States, during a storm at 
sea : in the papers it is headed, characteristically, " It takes a 
Yankee, it does I" During the last trip of the noble steam-ship 
" Ohio," from New York to Chagres, and while the terrific gale 
•which she encountered was raging at its very highest pitch, and 
half tlie passengers were on their knees, expecting the vessel to go 
to the bottom every moment, and the other hali' standing aghast, 
and gazing horror-stricken at the awful abyss of Ibaming water 
yawning hideously bclbre them, a tall, Green Mountain Yankee, 
from Vermont, with a white hat stuck knowingly (and how it 
stuck on at all in that gale must ever remain a mystery I) on one 
side of his head, was observed pacing the deck, deeply " calc'lat- 
ing," and soon he was heard inquiring Avhether there were any 
" Calilbrny" tickets for sale — he Avas willing to give one half and 
would run all the risk I The newspaper account thus ends : " That 
chap is now in Panama, and sails hence for San Francisco, in the 
' Oregon.' Wo rather ' guess' he will find a prospect in Cali- 
fornia I" 

There arc ten steamers now anxiously expected here that are 
coming round the Horn, or through the Straits of Magellan, one 
of which is a river steamer, called the " New World," intended 
to run on tho Sacramento River. This is tho second river steamer 
that has ever been sent round. 

I must repeat a tough story that is now in circulation relative to 
the natives and their unsophisticated simplicity. A number of 
tegs of gunpowder, it is asserted, Avere placed upon the backs of 
the " men-mules" (who would be, were it not lor the opposition- 
trains of their less numerous four-looted rivals, in almost the posi- 
tion of the camel — the ship of the desert), for transport across the 
isthmus, with the strictest reiterated directions that they should be 
kept perfectly dry ; but unibrtunately a most violent shower of 
rain overtook them before they got half-way across. The powder 
they had much reason to fear, had become wetted by the super- 
abundant fluid. 

In this predicament they kiirdlcd a good fire, and an attempt 
was instantaneously made to dr^ the combustible compound of 
saltpetre and brimstone ; when, alack I it ignited, exploded, and 
went oif like a tremendous sky-rocket, shaking the ground, and 
blowing the unhappy Indians into the air, and shivering them into 
twenty thousand pieces. 

I have said that the Government of New Granada seems one 
of a really liberal character ; and the news lately arrived from 



GOVERNMENT OF NEW GRANADA. 359 

Bogota would seem to corroborate that statement. The Secretary 
of State has just presented a law to establish immediately the 
freedom of the press. The ministers, I see, have lately presented 
a projected law for the decentralization of the fmancial adminis- 
tration of the Granadian Republic. This seems a hazardous ex- 
periment ; for if it receives the national sanction, it will doubtlessly 
tend to weaken much the Federal System here. 

If each of these provinces (as they are called) has the manage- 
ment of its own financial allLiirs, the political power of the country 
will most likely fall into anarchy. This country requires, I should 
think, as much consolidation as possible ; and any thing that tends 
to overthrow the unity of government would materially injure its 
prosperity. 

They have a Vice-President here, after the example of the 
United States, and his election, by late accounts, was just about to 
take place. Genei'al Obando is the new " Designado." If the 
President and Vice-President both should die, the " Designado" at 
once assumes the supreme power of the government, and is imme- 
diately recognized as the head of the nation. In short, he is 
another edition of the Vice-President, a second " en cas ;" so that 
New Granadians would seem to be very careful not to have a 
chance of being left without a supreme governor for a moment. 
They must, I suppose, be aware that they are terribly flighty 
mice, and sure to play when the cat is away, since they seem 
60 anxious to provide a number of " deputy-provisionary-vice-sub- 
Bupernumeraries. ' ' 



CHAPTER XLV. 

Arrival at Lima announced — Embark on the " Bolivia" — View of Panama 
from the Sea — Buenaventura — The River and City of Guayaquil — Horses' 
Dread of Alligators — Native Boats and their varied Freight — Parrots, 
Macaws, and Paroquets — Ponchos — The Guayaquil Ladies — Grass Hats 
— The five Productions of Guayaquil — Payta — Its Population — Its Salu- 
brity — Its Market — Scarcity of Water at Payta — Former Wealth of that 
Place. 

We arrived at Lima in perfect safety a few days ago. I shotild 
not at all repent of the resolution I had taken to come here, were 
it not that I shall thus be longer without my English letters, which 
will be awaiting me at Jamaica. 

I must console myself by thinking I am on my vi^ay home, though 
by a rather lengthened circumbendibus .' I was so afraid of miss- 
ing my letters altogether, if I attempted to arrange for them to 
follow me, that I preferred the chance of their accumulating, and 
waiting for me at some given s^wt ; and besides, I originally cal- 
culated on being at Jamaica long before this : it is very difficult 
to arrange satisfactorily about letters at such a distance. 

The sea voyage hither has done us an immensity of good, and 
also the delicious climate of Lima. We suffered terribly from the 
intense heat, however, during part of our voyage ; but I have 
now got rid of the remains of that hay-asthma, which incapacitated 
me so mttch from going about for nearly a fortnight at Panama. 

We hear that the cholera, which is said never to have passed 
the Equator, is now within three leagues of Bogota, and apparently 
gradually creeping on. The people here say it will stop at the 
Line — jious verrons ! 

The morning we left Panama was not very hot, fortunately for 
us, for of course we had to walk to the beach (at about the hottest 
time of the day, too), as it was the only way of getting there, un- 
less we had ridden on mules, which was not worth while, or gone 
in the famous hand-cart. Behold us, then, on our sultry way, after 
having taken leave of our lovely and aniiable young hostess, escort- 
ed by our thrice hospitable host, and with Pio (not " Nono," the 
Pope, unless agai?i in disguise, but that secular individual who 
filled the office of head-mozo in the Consular establishment) super- 
intending the safe conveyance of our luggage, carried by peons. 
We were introduced to the captain of the " Bolivia" on the shore, 



VIEW OF PANAMA FROM THE SEA. 361 



who subsequently very obliginofly made every possible arrangement 
for our comfort und accommodation on board the steamer, and we 
were soon rapidly gliding along toward the vessel among the snow- 
white pelicans. 

When we got pretty near the English steamer, we saw a boat 
alongside, from which people were, it seemed to us, incHectually 
attempting to raise some huge dark object into the steamer. This 
was an immense bullock, which we for some time thought was 
dead, but after awhile he showed that he was very alive, kicking 
and struggling tremendously : he floundered about, half in the 
water, it seemed, more like a young whale on four legs than a re- 
spectable land animal, accustomed to the progress of civilization, 
and the society of domesticated cattle, and about to be devoted to 
the service of some of his cousins and namesakes. At last the 
poor bull was hoisted into the vessel in safety. 

The vicAV of Panama from the sea is lovely. When we had 
steamed along about an hour, we came to Taboga, after passing 
several other hilly and volcanic-looking islands. Taboga is very 
lovely. Down to the beach grow the rich groves of orange and of 
tamarind. Beside a clump of cocoa-nut palms is the town, shel- 
tered and shaded ; and the hills rise, as they so often do in these 
delightful regions, in a beauteous semicircular amphitheatre of 
natural terraces, enriched with the most exquisite vegetation to 
their summits. Some of them may be about one thousand feet 
high. Various species of palm, and banana, and lemon, and orange, 
and tamarind trees cover the ground in a thick mass, till, on the 
beach, they almost dip into the water. 

It is said — I know not with what accuracy — that this is the 
only place bet-ween Cape Horn and San Francisco, where a dry 
dock? is practicable, and that here it would be very easy to construct 
one. The Indian houses here seem to be thatched with grass, and 
there is a curious fashion of arranging gourds on the rool', divided 
in two, to preserve them from rain. 

At dinner, we met Mr. and Mrs. Campbell, and a sister, I 
think, of that lady's. Besides us the two latter were the only 
'ladies on board. Mr. Campbell is the chief superintendent of the 
American engineer corps for the projected Chilian railroad. He 
was accompanied by two resident engineers, and several first-as- 
sistants ; and there are a number, besides, of artisans and sub- 
assistants. J 

The chief engineer of the Anglo-Peruvian railroad was also on 
board, with a considerable band of associates and assistants. The 

Q 



362 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

first place we stopped at was Buenaventura, which was a miser- 
able-looking town. Whether it had ever seen better days in the 
time of the Spanish dominion, and has become impoverished and 
half depopulated since, I know not. The coast was rugged and 
bold, but nobly Avooded. 

Buenaventura is the port of Bogota, on the Pacific. Those 
who go by this route to the capital, generally follow the course of 
the river Cauca to Cartago, from whence they ride along a dread- 
ful road to Bogota. The time occupied altogether by this journey 
is usually about three weeks. The country, we were told, is 
splendid. The Atlantic and Pacific are thought to be connected 
through a communication between the Cauca and the IMagdelena. 
From Buenaventura we proceeded to Guayaquil. Soon after 
crossing the Line we found the heat intense, and so it continued 
till we got near Callao. AVe were much amused by one of our 
fellow-travelers in the morning rushing into the cabin to know 
whether we would not go on deck to see the Line, as we were 
very near it. 

Before entering the Guayaquil river we passed the singular 
rock called by the English Dead Man's Island ; by the Equador- 
ians. El Enamortajado (corpse). We thought it looked very 
much like a gigantic fossilized Egyptian mummy ; a most colossal 
corpse laid in state on its boundless ocean bed, with its face up- 
turned to the everlasting sun and stars. Noble sepulchral lamps, 
indeed ! 

There is a story in reference to its sombre designation of terror, 
of some men having been forgotten there and left to perish during 
a Guayaquil Pronunciamiento ; but its extraordinary formation is 
sufficient to account for its melancholy name. After that we 
passed a large island called Puna. 

The river of Guayaquil is a noble, deep, large stream. While 
■we were ascending it Ave felt almost suflbcated with the heat, 
which was terribly oppressive. Guayaquil is eighty-five miles 
from the mouth of the river. When the heat of the sun moder- 
ated, we went on deck. 

I thought some of the scenery on the banks lovely ; in many 
parts they appeared to me to assume a particularly park-like 
aspect, with charming openings between the groups of trees, that 
made one long to land and explore a little there — please the mus- 
quitoes. 

We tried in vain to catch a glimpse of grand old kingly Chim- 
borazo and the great Cotopaxi. There was a floating canopy of 



CITY OF GUAYAQUIL. 363 

— • ■ ~ 

clouds to be seen, and that was all. Before we readied the river 
there suddenly came on thousands of bright, beautiful flashes of 
lightning, like winged suns darting about with bewildering rapid- 
ity — most exquisite meteorological pyrotechnics they were — and 
with their dazzling reflections they sometimes almost made the 
Pacific one sheet of flame. The southern constellations — and con- 
spicuously beautiful and interestmg among them the Cross — look- 
ed magnificent when the lightning partially ceased. 

At length we arrived at the town of Guayaquil, the chief sea- 
port of Ecuador. There has been a serious rebellion going on 
(and that is strange, for one really wonders how they can go on 
with their petty revoltings and revolutionizings without laughing), 
and the city is actually in the hands of the wrong man, whoever 
that may be. 1 heard his name but forget it, which is as well, 
for he may very likely be the right man by this time. There 
were no signs of any thing being altered or disordered in any way 
by this pronunciamientical state of things. 

These outbreaks seem a part of the constitutions of these new 
Southern republics generally. " Sweet chasing sweet, joy over- 
taking joy." I am told that in Peru, the election for the Presi- 
dent regularly produces one, or rather is one. Law and order are 
entirely set at defiance ; rebellions and massacres are then merely 
pardonable ebullitions of enthusiasm and patriotism, and are quite 
amicably committed, and, as the Frenchman said when he killed 
his wife, innocently done in a j^etit monie?it de vivacite. In short, 
revolution seems almost the normal state of things. No wonder 
Guayaquil looked so gay and contented. 

I know not whether there was any extra lighting of the town 
to express their joy at being in such delightful circumstances ; but 
I must say, I have seldom beheld a more magnificently-illumina- 
ted city than Guayaquil. As you ascend the river the town is on 
the left-hand side ; broad quays of immense length, and splendidly 
lit-up at night, adorn the city greatly, besides being eminently 
useful to the shipping ; for, when moored to the rings upon the 
wharf, vessels of very considerable size may remain alongside of 
them without touching the ground. 

There are said to be immense numbers of very large alligators 
some miles above the town. They occasionally overset acciden- 
tally the slight and fragile canoes of the Indians, who bring in 
these boats to the Guayaquil market fruit and vegetables (among 
which are enormous numbers of splendid pine-app]es) ; then woe 
to the poor boatman I for the moment the alligator sees him in 



361 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

» 

the water, he seizes upon him, and his repast is too soon an accom- 
phshed fact. 

They say the horses and cattle are afraid of going to the river 
to drink, and often make use of dilierent stratagems to avoid this 
ferocious enemy ; but, if they unsuspiciously come and stoop down 
to drink, the alligator, till then concealed, or nearly so, darts at 
the head of the poor animal, insultingly pulls his nose, and drags 
him quickly down, depriving him of all power of motion by a blow 
from his terrible tail. The common belief in the complete hn- 
penetrability of an alligator's natural coat of mail is now some- 
times disputed ; though there is no doubt that he is provided M'ith 
very excellent armor. 

Guayaquil appeared to me an exceedingly picturesque town. 
The balconied and veranda-surrounded houses have a particular- 
ly pretty eiiect, especially in the brilliant illumination that I have 
described. Guayaquil looked all alive : but we saw no symptoms 
of anarchy ; numerous promenaders seemed enjoying the beauty of 
the evening. 

It is curious that here, Avithin two degrees of the equator, the 
ladies are remarkably fair, and, indeed, have almost Anglo-Saxon 
complexions. They are celebrated for their beauty ; and Ibrmer- 
ly, I believe, in the Spanish days, there were many very distin- 
guished families residing here, possessed of enormous wealth. 

In the morning we beheld a very gay and busy scene : the 
steamer was literally surrounded with native boats of all shapes 
and sizes, some filled to overliowing with almost innumerable par- 
rots, macaws, and paroquets ; pine apples and various tropical 
fruits in otheis, piled in perfect pyramids and mounds ; and the 
noise was nearly deafening. Every parrot strained its harsh voice 
to the utmost, and seemed in the greatest possible rage and 
fury. Was there a revolution among the ornithological population 
of the republic, as well as among the human ? ^^'as this a par- 
rot-and-paroquet pronunciamieuto ? No ; they were too sensible 
— they only objected, perhaps instinctively, to a sea-voyage. But 
what a noise they made 1 Talk of people being deafened by artil- 
lery in a battle, indeed I the sharp edge of these piercing sounds 
seemed to cut through and through the tympanum like knives. 
' The little paroquets (some were lovely tiny creatures, with 
white rings round their necks, and the most charming little tur- 
quoise-blue heads conceivable) repeated incessantly, " Perroquito 
chiquilo, blanquito bonito ;" and the macaws reiterated, in their 
hoarse, guttural manner, " Tocar la pata," or sonicthing like that, 



PONCHOS. 365 



in the hubbub. The poor birds seemed fit for Bedlam at last, for 
none appeared to like to give in, and the clatter seemed to increase. 
If the natives wished to find purchasers, surely they should have 
gagged these ear-splitting creatures. 

For a moment a terrible idea floated over my horror-stricken 
imagination. Was it possible the living contents of these canoes 
would be transferred to the good steamer " Bolivia ?" But no ; most 
of the passengers must have had a surfeit oi" parrot-talking forever. 
If there were any amiable English visitors on board, politically in- 
clined, and ambitious of a seat in Britain's Parliament, I have 
good reason to think that morning's trial and torment has caused 
them to change their minds ; and if any of them should have been, 
elected (as I am told a gentleman lately was) in their absence, 
they will probably take an early opportunity of accepting the 
Chiltern Hundreds. 

Extraordinary as it may appear, a few of the shrieking chatter- 
boxes were bought. One little blue-headed beauty became a great 

favorite with V ; but whether, as some thought, the poor 

little thing had been injured, or whether it never recovered its own 
small share in tlie animated debate I have spoken of, 1 know not ; 
but it died very soon. 

The Captain sent me some splendid ponchos to look at, which 
were of very brilliant colors, and exquisite materials. They were 
made by the Indian women ; and they say these fine and beauti- 
fully-finished ones take a great deal of time, and a considerable 
amount of labor. They were fringed and embroidered, and ap- 
peared to be of rich silk ; but I beheve were formed entirely of 
the wool of the Vicuna. 

I am constrained to confess, Guayaquil is rather a candle-light 
beauty ; not so, it seems, are the Guayaquilenas, with their deli- 
cate complexions and masses of magnificent hair and miniatures 
of feet — Cinderella's glass-slipper would not have fitted many of 
these South American ladies, lor it would have been much too 
large. The G uayaquil grass hats are very famous : they vary in 
price from three to fifty dollars : they are extraordinarily durable, 
and the best require great care and attention in choosing the 
peculiar grass of which they are made, and subsequently in pre- 
paring it ; which accounts for the apparently extravagant price 
asked for those of superior manufacture. 

Ecuador, in which this grass grows, I believe, prohibits its ex- 
portation. The most delicate of these hats can only be worked 
upon, it is said, in a particular state of the atmosphere, which re- 



366 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

stricts the hours of labor upon it (without any interference of our 
benevolent Lord Ashley) to a limited number during the day, con- 
sequently a very perfect and superfine hat occupies whole months 
in preparation. Of course, the only genuine ones are made at the 
place whence the hats take their name ; but large numbers of 
a very tolerably successful imitation, though decidedly inferior, are 
manufactured in the province of Piura in Peru, and exported 
iiom Payta. 

Gay and brilliant as revolutionized Guayaquil looked, we were 
not sorry to leave it ; for the heat and the musquitoes were alto- 
gether almost insupportable. We bade farewell at last to the 
town, and started, carrying oil' from those thick-thronging boats 
full of pine-apples and paroquets, quite a mountain of the former, 
Avhich are certainly marvelously excellent at that place ; they are 
very large and juicy, and of most exquisite flavor, and the inside 
is of a snowy whiteness. 

We had some Guayaquil beef at dinner, which was exceedingly 
good ; so that five pi'oductions of Guayaquil seem to be superlative- 
ly fine — beef, hats, pine-apples, ladies, and paroquets. 

How we longed, as we steamed down the river — whose heated 
banks seemed steaming in emulation — to breathe the fresh air of 
the ocean ! Still the pretty scenery of parts of the river kept us 
at the cabin windows, though the closeness of the atmosphere did 
not allow us to dream even that we were inhaling that luxury 
called air. 

At length we were once more on the glorious Pacific, on our 
way to Payta. Chimborazo and Cotopaxi, were neither of them 
visible ; but the ocean looked as beautiful as it possibly could, to 
console us a little for the disappointment. 

Payta is an extraordinary place indeed — a sterile, treeless, water- 
less desert. It is the port of Piura, the chief town of the province ; 
which large town is distant about forty miles in the interior, and 
is the first city built by Pizarro, when he conquered the province. 
It is said to contain about 12,000 inhabitants. The population 
of Payta amounts to about 4000. 

The bay on which it is built, if I am correctly informed, affords 
the only secure anchorage on this part of the coast. It is difficult 
to imagine any thing more dreary, wild, and inhospitable-looking 
than this bleak, arid place. 

The houses, with their high, thatched roofs, stand under a bar- 
ren range of yellow, bilious-looking sand-hills, that seem afflicted 
with a perpetual jaundice : there is neither tuft nor sprig, nor 



SALUBRITY OF PAYTA. 367 



leaf nor blade of vegetation visible. Most of the houses are con- 
structed of the bamboo, either slightly filled in with clay, or inter- 
mixed with a few strips and shreds of hide, and the principal ones 
are coated with mud inside and outside, and whitewashed : the 
habitations of the Indians, like those on the Isthmus, are mere 
cages of cane. It is hke dwelling in a Brobdignagian wicker-basket 
turned topsy-turvy, and with an immense extinguisher-like thatched 
roof, in place of the bottom of the basket. 

Dreary and melancholy as its appearance is, the situation of 
this town is said to be particularly salubrious : the Indians live to 
an exceedingly advanced age here. The profession of the healing 
art has a very bad chance at Payta : a barber and a painter are said 
to have followed the medical line here, and undertaken to attempt 
to kill off a few of those long-lived individuals, but unsuccessfully: 
draughts could not destroy them — pills could not poison them. 

Before the yoke of Spain was thrown off, there was a very con- 
siderable overland commerce from the Atlantic coast to Panama, 
on the Pacific : the richly-freighted argosies, heavy with gold and 
treasure, always put into Payta, on their way to and from Callao 
— strange as it may seem — lor water, as well as provisions. Pro- 
visions and water are brought from the interior, and the latter 
froin some distance, for there is not a single drop of fresh drinking 
water within six leagues of the place : as a shower of rain only 
falls about once in three or four years, the inhabitants are entirely 
dependent upon a river six leagues off, for that essential necessary 
of life. Regularly every morning come in, laden- with water- 
barrels, mules and donkeys, which also bring into the town abund- 
ant supplies of vegetables and meat. 

These two last are very reasonable in price, but the water is 
extremely dear. The natives say, in Payta it is far more econom- 
ical to drink wine ; therefore, no doubt they do — whenever they 
can get it. Let not Father Mathew, or any other preacher of 
teetotalism come here, for Nature herself seems to oppose their 
priuciple in this thirsty place. 

The poor mules and donkeys who bring the precious liquid, and 
the various articles of consumption to the town, are rarely allowed 
to taste a drop of water until they return to the above-mentioned 
river, and they are, under ordinary circumstances, driven back 
into the interior the same night. The musquito, who, alas I is 
not a water-drinker (would that Father Mathew could make hiin 
one !), and the common housefly, are the only creatures of the 
insect tril^e to be found in this place : no reptile exists there. 



368 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

The very dogs, during the oppressive heats, have been frequently 
known to migrate to the banks of the "abounding river," that 
they might satisfy their raging thirst in peace, thus deserting their 
masters. 

The market is very well supplied, on the whole, I am informed : 
bananas, plantains, figs, pomegranates, cherimoyas, aguacates 
(which fruit has several aliases, though it seems a respectable sort 
of natural production enough — they are sometimes called "avoca- 
dos" and " alligator" pears ; the last is sufficiently absurd, for it 
neither resembles a pear, nor an alligator),* tomatoes, sweet-pota- 
toes, and other tropical fruits and vegetables, are plentiful and 
excellent. Besides they have poultry, and beef, and mvitton. 

The Indian women who assemble in the morning in the market- 
place to sell provisions; have not forsaken their old national cos- 
tume, such as their ancestresses appeared in, in the days of " the 
Children of the Sun" — the Incas of Peru, for which I honor them 
greatly. This costume is remarkably simple, consisting chiefly of 
a large, flowing, black dress, with very wide, loose sleeves. 

The exquisite transparency and clearness, as well as the dryness 
of the atmosphere at Payta, are very remarkable ; but there are 
110 rich twining plants and flowers there to embroider the very air 
with their high-fantastical, and delicate vagaries : all is sterile 
and glaring. 

But, however dreary and unfruitful the vicinity of Payta may 
be, the province of Piura has the reputation of being eminently 
fertile, and rich in many productions, animal, mineral, and vege- 
table. Great quantities of cotton grown there are among the ex- 
ports from Payta. It also exports silver, cattle, goat-skins, &c. 
The cotton generally produces two crops in the year, and grows 
to the size of a tree. It is of an extremely good quality. 

The town is the depot still, as it was under the Spanish rule, 
of the extensive commerce of the interior of North Peru. The 
best Peruvian bark is found in the valleys of Loxa in the northern 
part of Peru, and in those of Hualaga in Bolivia. 

Some little time ago Payta had actually been totally without 
rain for ten years. If during three or four years the inhabitants 
are blessed with a few precious showers, their wild, rugged hills 
smile with delicate verdure, and it is even of vast pecuniary ad- 
vantage to Payta. 

There are the marks of former water-courses leading to the sea, 

* In Jamaica, I hear, they arc called "subaltern's butter." 



FORMER AVE'ALTH OF PAYTA. 369 

in the neighborhood, now completely diy ; hut the traces of water 
having once flowed there, are still, travelers say, perfectly plain 
and visible in the beds of the now empty channels. It is supposed 
— and it seems with much reason — that some ancient revolution 
and convulsion of nature either diverted the course, or entirely dried 
up the sources of these former torrents ; it appears no tradition ex- 
ists of water ever having been heard of or seen, much nearer to 
Payta than now. 

Some of the best houses at Payta have their patios covered over 
with awnings, which is a charming plan while the sun is in his 
full power ; but when his rays decrease, the more air in these hot 
regions, I think, the better. But since they have no shade outside 
their houses at this place, they appear determined to have all they 
can vi'ithin I 

In former days, I believe, the old Spanish Viceroys disembarked 
at this port on their way to the capital of Peru I which journey by 
land might be accomplished in about a fortnight's time. 

The riches of this place were formerly proverbial, and often, 
report says, tempted the cupidity of the old British navigators. 
When navigation was not so finished a science as it is now, the 
beating to windward from Payta and from Panama, to Callao and 
to Valparaiso, was said to be inconceivably slow and difficult. 

Near the coast the currents and winds add very greatly to the 
length of the voyages. It is necessary to sail out to sea, to meet 
the wind more to the westward ; under which circumstances, a 
good sailer may perform the voyage from Payta to Lima in a fort- 
night or twenty days, 



CHAP TEE. XL VI. 

Cherimoyas — Lambayeque — The Balsa — Its Use — Nnmerous Reptiles and 
Insects at Lambayeque — Curious Mound-tombs — Sepulchral Curiosities 
found in them — Alleged Imitation of them in Birmingham — Huanchaco — 
The peremptory Lady — Description of Callao — Its Destruction a Century 
ago — The frozen Apple. 

Just as we were starting from Payta, I received a splendid 
basketful of cherimoyas from the British Consul. I was not, of 
course, able to thank him for his thoughtful courtesy, to my great 
regret, but we shall stop there again on our return. 

These cherimoyas were exceedingly fine, and they arc so popialar 



370 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

a fruit and have so teniptinj? an appearance, that I ana quite pro- 
voked with myself for not being able to like them ; but such is the 
case, nevertheless. 

Our next stoppage was at Lambayequc, where there seemed to 
be neither port nor harbor : an apparently miserable assemblage 
of huts and hovels, with a very few houses of higher pretensions, 
stood on the beach : this is the landing-place for Lambayeque, the 
town itself of that name being about seven miles in the interior. 

The little village on the beach is exposed to the mighty swell 
of the mile-long waves of the Pacific, that rise far away at sea 
into huge rolling billows, and then tower into foamy-crested and 
mountainous breakers, which plunge down on the trembling shore, 
after a terrific sweep, in surges of long-resounding thunder. 

Here, as well as at Payta, they make use of that singular and 
useful contrivance, the balsa, which is a large pile of logs of some 
light and suitable wood, crossing and re-crossing each other in 
layers, and very strongly lashed together. These are secure even 
in the midst of the mighty waves of the Pacific, when tremendous 
billows and sweeping surges beat around them, and vast walls and 
precipices of water threaten, as they roll on with fearful force, to 
whelm and engulf them. If by any accident the lashing should 
give way, they are instantaneously lost. Of course there are times 
when not even the balsa can pass the formidable breakers. 

Payta is warranted to be free from reptiles and insects, and from 
all accounts, they must have transferred themselves and their 
always large families to Lambayeque, which is said to swarm 
with them. There is one creature, called the salamanchaca, the 
bite of which is described as being extremely venomous and dan- 
gerous. 

Near Lambayeque, it is stated, there are several of those curious 
mound-tombs of the ancient Peruvians, in which arc ordinarily 
ibund numbers of those variously-shaped hollow vases and vessels 
denominated " huacos." These huacos are generally formed into 
uncouth representations of human beings, animals and reptiles ; 
and the acts and occupations of ancient Indian life are shadowed 
forth quaintly on them very frequently. They were for the use of 
the departed. 

The greater part of them are constructed of a black earth ; but 
some — no doubt from the tombs of their chiefs — are of silver, and 
even of gold. Most of them have apertures, which, upon applying 
the lips to them firmly, and blowing into them, produce a whistling 
and very strange sound. It is also said, if you put them on the 



SEPULCHRAL CUrjOSITIES. 371 

fae, when they are thoroughly heated, they will send forth a sweet 
and melodious tone ; but people do not like experimentalizing thus 
on them, for lear the poor superannuated musical-boxes should 
break. 

It is necessary to be very careful of whom you purchase these 
sepulchral curiosities, 1 am informed, as the eager demand among 
travelers and visitors, and even among residents, especially those 
from the United States and Europe, lor these archaeological treas- < 
ures has been the cause of their being pretty successfully imitafed, 
it is rumored, in Birmingham, that toy-shop of two worlds ! (and 
which appears anxious ibr the custom ol' the Elysian fields to boot). 
If any one is anxious to procure the real article, he must pay a 
visit to the old burial mounds, or depute some trustworthy friend 
or aoquaintance so to do. 

In the inland town of Lambayeque, the market is supplied, I 
hear, Avith exquisite white grapes, as well as a variety of other 
fruits. A curious currency appears by some late accounts to be in 
use at Lambayeque — no other than eggs, which freely circulate as 
small coin ; not a pleasant coin to put in your pockets, I should 
think, however agreeable that operation may be in general. 

There, as in other places in J'eru, the inhabitants are fond of 
quaffing a refreshing beverage, called chicha. They have other 
contrivances, I believe, besides the balsa*' for passing the tremen- 
dous surf of the Pacific : at these places the inflated hides of 
animals are used for this purpose frequently, and called " cavallos;" 
but I fancy this requires a person much experienced in the 
practice. 

We went from Lambayeque to Huanchaco : the coast there 
was very wild and rocky, and scarcely a trace of man's habitation 
or handiwork was to be seen in any direction. But among the 
bold, rugged rocks, in face of the majestic Pacific Ocean, rose, 
alone, apparently, shedding a heavenly halo over the great solitude, 
a little Christian church ! This being elevated on a peak of rock, 
was visible when the town or village it belonged to was hidden. 

We proceeded from thence to Casma, which I thought very 
charmingly situated ; and then, after a short delay, came on to 
Callao. At one of the intermediate ports, I forget which, several 
Peruvian ladies came on board, their diminutive feet chaussed 
with the prettiest little white satin boots imaginable, almost large- 
enough for an English doll I Their toilet in general for the voy- 

* Some of the balsas liave a rough mast, supporting a square-.saii. 



372 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



ao-e was such as in London might be worn at a matinee musicale 
or a very brilliant breakfast at Chiswick, or perhaps even at the 
Opera, save the lovely mantilla, undulating so gracefully over their 
lixxuriant death-black locks. 

I saw one lady who came in one of the native boats with a 
great many rowers ; she was superbly dressed, and appeared to be 
a person of great distinction there ; she was excessively indignant 
at the difficulties that presented themselves in the way of her 
getting on board the steamer : the unfortunate craft she was in 
was plunged and tossed about hke a shuttlecock in convulsions by 
the restless waves ; but she scolded the boatmen in the most 
stentorian of tones, and stamped her little Liliputian white satin 
foot in a perfect fury. They seemed to be straining every nerve 
to obey her reiterated and imperious directions, but in vain ; and 
she grew more and more angry with them. She completely 
ignored the sweeping Pacific, apparently resolved to consider the 
stupidity of the boatmen the sole and single cause of her not reach- 
ing the deck of the " Bolivia" immediately. Supported by two 
retainers, for she chose to stand up, she continued to give her 
commands more and more peremptorily : what a Lady of the Lake, 
or the Ocean, was she I They made a desperate attempt ; and 
the bounding canoe shot up against us with terrific force. I ex- 
pected with horror to see canoe, boatmen, and lady all struggling 
in the waves ; but no — the little white satin feet were at last seen 
triumphantly rushing up the ladder as if they had been seven- 
leagued boots, instead of those baby-shoes I The old blood of 
Castile and Leon must have stirred in that little form : she looked 
as if she would have commanded the very elements. 

We arrived at Callao at last, and one of the first sights that 
struck our eyes was an English man-of-war, the "Daedalus," the 
ship from whence the supposed sea-serpent was seen, some time 

ago. Since that she has been re-commissioned. Captain W 

came on board the steamer, and was good enough to ofler to take 
us on shore in his boat. 

We accordingly proceeded to Callao with him in a beautiful 
boat, shortly after. In the harbor were great numbers of mer- 
chant-ships — American, Peruvian, and English. I must not omit 
to mention that the boats of the " Dajdalus" are adorned with a 
representation of the sea-serpent, in memory of that extraordinary 
apparition. 

Callao is the principal sea-port of Peru. On entering its harbor, 
you have, on the right hand, to the south, the steepy island of San 



CALLAO. ;j73 

Lorenzo, bare and rugged, without a leaf or blade on it. In front 
are the white houses of Callao, and its mouldering, but noble 
castles ; and beyond s^jreads the verdant plain, toward a crescent- 
shaped range of bleak and frowning hills, which inclose this valley 
of Lurigancho, through which runs the beautiful river Ilimac. 

Beyond this fertile and smiling valley, to the left of Callao, and 
at the foot of the swelling mountains, rise the majestic spires and 
domes of Lima, the City of the Kings, as it was called in past 
times, " La Ciudad de los lleyes" (it is sometimes now designated 
as " El Cielo de los Mugeres, el Purgatorio de los Hombres, y el 
Infierno de los Burros"). Above all tower in their ineiliible 
sublimity, the summits of the stupendous Andes, whose cloud- 
capped, snow-crested peaks are awfully magniiJcent. 

Callao is about six or seven miles from Lima. It is a consider 
able town iu itself Many foreign merchants reside there ; anci 
on all sides you see large flourishing-looking warehouses and stores. 
At Callao the anchorage is very good, and the waters of tlie bay 
are rarely visited by a stormy breeze. There is a very good land- 
ing, at an extremely-handsome mole of stone, which is inclosed by 
a substantia] iron raihng. All is life, bustle, and activity around 
you. 

Captain W drew my attention to many enormous heaps of 

corn piled up in the open air, and told me they left them there 
exposed always to the weather, during every change of the seasons ; 
so dry is the climate, and so remarkable the absence of rain! 
Great numbers of Liliputian donkeys were to be seen in all direc- 
tions, engaged in transporting vast quantities of goods to the 
various warehouses and stores. A great many rude carts and 
drays, made of raw hides, also went busily to and fro, loaded 
heavily with difierent articles of merchandise. 

In addition to the heaps of corn and fine wheat from the flourish- 
ing repubhc of Chih, there were large earthen, picturesque-shajied 
jars, of an alcoholic spirit, called italia (manufactured at Pisco, a 
little south of Callao, and said to be very popular here) ; blocks of 
salt brought from the Sechura mines, and iron vessels of quick- 
silver used in the mines for preparing the precious metals. The 
scene was altogether novel, interesting, and very animated. 

Nearly all the dwelling-houses at Callao are one-storied struc- 
tures (the safest in case of earthquakes) : they arc generally built 
of adobes, and with flat roofs. The Old Town of Callao was 
completely destroyed by the terrible earthquake of 174G. The 
ocean, it is said, then receded to an extraordinary distance, and 



374 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

returned again, as if with increased force and fury, in three succes- 
sive mountainous waves, which entirely overwhelmed the unfortu- 
nate town. One man only, we are told, survived this frightful 
destruction out of a population of three thousand. His escape was 
almost miraculous. 

He was in a protected situation, in a bastion of the fortress, 
looking upon the ocean. From this isolated position, he beheld 
the terrified inhabitants of th3 town hurry from their endangered 
houses with breathless precipitation, in the utmost agitation, dis- 
order, and alarm ; but ere they could reach any place of greater 
security, the howling waves of the infuriate ocean, which had pre- 
viously retired in so extraordinary a manner, returned with the 
tei'rific and awful violence I have described, and its tremendous 
surges swallowed up every inhabitant of Callao, except the trem- 
bling wretch in the bastion of the fortress. 

Though Callao is now, despite its size, a rather insignificant- 
looking place, it is thought by some, that when the ancient Spanish 
custom, of having the chief towns removed from the ports, shall 
yield to modern notions of practical utility and convenience, the 
population and the opulence of Ijima will gradually find their way 
down to this port ; and already there are a good many very pretty 
and well-built houses beginning to rear their loftier fronts among 
the humble dwellings of the town. 

Captain W was good enough to write and order a private 

conveyance for us from Lima, instead of our going in the omnibus, 
which was very full, as there were a good many passengers for the 
"Kingly" City. We stood a moment at tVie door of the house 
whence the omnibus starts, till we saw our luggage arrive safely, 
part of which I wished to send on by that conveyance. 

They were loading the omnibus, and an unfortunate negro who 
was standing on the roof of the vehicle, pulling at a rope, to fasten 
some luggage firmly on the top, lost his balance, or the rope gave 
way, and he fell back down into the street with great violence. 
He appeared insensible, and his head seemed much cut. He was 
immediately taken up and carried, apparently with great care and 
attention, into the house. 

While we were waiting for our coche, we were invited to stay 

in the house of Mrs. M , the wile of an eminent English 

merchant of the place, who resides at Callao. It was an exceed- 
ingly pretty house ; and in that, and the house of the agent of the 
British Mail Steamer Company, we saw carpets for the first time 
for many months — very handsome carpets they were too, from 



SITE OF OLD CALLAO. 375 

England. Mrs. M invited us to have luncheon with her. 

This consisted almost entirely of a great variety of exquisite fruits, 
and a profusion of cakes. 

Among other fruits, there was an extraordinary species of apple, 
called here the frozen apple. On cutting it in half, the core, and 
a circular portion of the fruit around it, are like a lump of ice ; 
this is only to be found, we are told, in a particular kind of apple, 
but yet not all the fruits of this separate species are possessed of 
this peculiarity. 

Mrs. has some magnificent old inlaid cabinets, of admir- 
able workmanship, that she bought at Lima, I believe. They 
reminded me of some I saw at Sir William Parker's, at Malta, 
which had been presented to him by the present Queen of Portu- 
gal. In the market-place here, under temporary booths, we are 
told, are stationed numerous venders of inila, or iced pine-apple 
water, ice cream, &c., and of fruits almost endless. 

At length our conveyance drew up to the entrance of Mrs. 

M 's charming mansion ; and with much gratitude for her 

kind hospitality, we took leave of her, and started for Lima. 



CHAPTER XLVIL 

Site of old Callao — The shouting- Inquirer — Approach to Lima — Ab.sence of 
Rain at that City — The graceful Peruvian Costume — The Poncho — Male 
and Female Equestrians — Arrival at Lima — The Aspect of the City — 
Miradors — Multitude of Asses in Lima — London and Lima — Costumes of 
Lima Ladies — The Bridge over the Rimac — Venders of Cigars — The 
Cordilleras. 

On our road to Lima, we saw a monument placed to commem- 
morate the spot where a Spanish vessel of war, a frigate, was de- 
posited, at the time of the memorable earthquake of 1746, by the 
receding ocean. It is about a mile from the sea-shore. By the 
way, the present town of Callao is not built on the same spot that 
the old town stood on before its total destruction. It is more re- 
moved from the beach, f)robably to avoid, on any similar occasion, 
the terrific billows that swept away all of the ancient town which 
the frightful earthquake itself had spared. If I am correctly in- 
formed. Old Callao, indeed, was about two miles to the south of 
the new town. 

There is a rather gentle inclination the whole way from Lima 



376 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

to the coast : a great many public carriages, as well as private 
ones, are constantly running on this road, and I think there is no 
doubt the railroad will answer here admirably ; and I can not but 
believe, those who think Callao will take the place of Lima in the 
future will be mistaken, as the railroad will so materially interfere 
with such a prospect. 

The wealthy merchants will have their magnificent mansions in 
the city, and their houses of business at Callao : some, if not many, 
ibllow this plan now, and with the additional facilities afl'orded by 
the railroad, it will become the common custom. 

We stopped a short time at a sort of half-way house to rest the 
horses, of which we had four attached to the carriage ; there was 
an omnibus pausing there likewise, which seemed to be filled with 
black people and Indian women smoking. A man came to ask us 
if we would aliglit Irom the carriage, and he roared and thundered 
this inquiry (seeing we were foreigners from our wearing bonnets), 
in a terribly loud voice, determined we should hear if we did not 
understand Spanish, which reminded me of the favorite custom in 
my own land, of trying to make an unfortunate foreigner under- 
stand and learn our language, by the curious process of first de- 
priving him of his hearing ; in short, by deafening him with a 
perfect volley of shouts, as if he were still in his own distant coun- 
try, and the speaker or shouter in his ; and by dint of hallooing, 
this last hoped to make up for the space that separated them, 
though it should be from England to Japan. A poor German 

Prince was found one day in the hall at in a state bordering 

on distraction, with a footman on each side of him hallooing in his 
cars. 

Not very far from here, I believe, there is a chapel, at which 
the old and new Spanish Viceroys used formerly to meet when a 
fresh one was appointed, and the successor arrived in Peru to assume 
the functions of governor. 

For the last tew miles near Lima the road is delightful, with 
beautiful gardens on either side of it. What a situation is that of 
the City of Kings ! Surrounded with these luxuriant groves and 
gardens, out of which tower so magnificently the domes, and cu- 
polas, and steeples of its many noble clfurches and monasteries, 
with the boundless Pacific heaving the majesty of its unfathomable 
waves at the loot of the gracious and throne-like height on which 
it is elevated, and above all, in every sense, the giant grandeur of 
the awful Andes soaring behind it to the skies, crowned with eternal 
snow, and really looking as if they almost overshadowed and over- 



ABSENCE OF RAIN AT LIMA. 377 

hung the stately city, for they appear far closer than in reality they 
are. What a situation it is ! 

An extraordinary canopy of clouds generally envelops the highest 
peaks and summits of these sublime mountains, as if their awful- 
ness would be too overwhelming were they beheld uncovered, and 
these clouds seem ever to threaten the beautiful Lima with some 
unheard-of tempest. Is not Lima the King of Cities as well as 
the City of Kings'? I should unhesitatingly answer yes, had I 
never seen Mexico and Constantinople. 

Notwithstanding the appearance of the thick and sable clouds 
that hover almost continually over the mighty peaks of the mount- 
ains, it is said never to rain at Lima, and thunder and lightning 
have not ever scared the inhabitants of the plains of Peru. In the 
mountains, however, fall showers of rain, and occasionally there 
arise furious hurricanes and tempests. A great deal of dew and 
of mist in the winter, dropping in the valleys, makes up for the 
absence of rain ; and it is not often the sun is seen, save through a 
softening vail of vapor. But I can not corroborate the statements 
of those who say the sun never shines in Lima, as I have seen it 
already several times pouring forth its most brilliant beams, but 
not for any length of time continuously and uninterruptedly. The 
full glory of his tropical resplendence is in the morning (when he 
does appear) : then gradually grows and gathers around him that 
floating pavillion of clouds which casts a soft and delightful shadow 
on the earth. 

The approach to the city from the port of Callao is a very wide, 
handsome road, that runs almost in a straight line ; and as you 
draw near the suburbs of the capital, on each side are to be seen 
numerous immense remains of fine hacie7idas, which have been 
deserted during the troublous times of civil war and revolution, 
and still-inhabited villas and cultivated grounds and gardens. 

Olive-trees and aloes grow along the sides of the road. Where 
there h, an interspace between, the gardens and the distant fields 
are to be seen divided by rude walls of adobes, and irrigated by 
means of numerous acequias, or small canals, conducting the fer- 
tilizing waters of the silvery Rimac. 

Still advancing, you find the road alive with busy passengers, 
and citizens and ladies of Lima, besides droves of beasts of burden, 
conveying cargoes of merchandize almost continually to and fro. 
When any specie is thus transported, the train of animals is usually 
escorted by a small body of negro soldados, carrying lances with a 
little bright scarlet flag at the end of each. 



378 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

It is sometimes stated that an enormous quantity of specie is 
smuggled away from hence, but I know not whether this is true. 
We saw a goodly number of equestrians and equestrianesses as we 
passed along, the former accoutred in the brilliant and graceful 
Peruvian costume. The poncho, or cloak, is always worn — this I 
have mentioned before : it has a circular opening tor the head of 
the wearer to pass through, and has generally a gay fringe round 
the edges. It displays often a great brilliancy and variety of ■ 
colors ; occasionally it is very richly and fancifully embroidered, 
and sometimes it is of a snowy white, but generally exhibits broad 
and bright stripes — orange, scarlet, blue, green, or rose-colored, or 
variegated combinations of these, and at other times diflerent pat- 
terns, gayly intermixed and diversified. 

The poncho hangs gracefully over the shoulders, and falls almost 
down to the knees. It is certainly very picturesque and striking, 
with the ordinary accompaniments of richly-carved stirrups (which 
stirrups are usually triangular and rather massive-looking blocks 
of wood, generally ornamented and tipped with burnished silver), 
and glittering caparisons for the horse. 

However, I do not think the poncho for a single moment can be 
compared with the far more beautiful and more picturesque Mexi- 
can serapc ; and the Mexican costume altogether is, I think, very 
much handsomer. The hats worn here, are commonly the white 
Ciuayaquil grass sombreros, sometimes with very broad brims, and 
at other times like small plates ; and the windmill-like spurs are 
])erfect masses of heavy metal, very frequently of silver, the enor- 
mous rowel standing out four or five inches from the heel, and the 
spikes being perhaps an inch and a half or more in length. 

As for the horsewomen, the greater part of them are peasants 
(Indian dames, or negresscs), who usually ride in cavalier fashion, 
with an ample balloon-like white muslin dress — which sometimes 
makes them look like the dome of St. Paul's on horseback — or else 
the same description of capacious garment in gaudy calico of many 
colors ; a delicate silk stocking and beautifully fitting shoe on a 
very little foot, which is furnished with a spur, a shawl or flutter- 
ing scarf of the most florid designs, and of a lumdred hues, an im- 
mense Guayaquil hat with broad streaming variegated ribbons, and 
coquettish bows on whichever they consider the "congregation side 
of the head," and with the shining cascade of abundant coal-black 
tresses, carefully divided on the dark forehead, and hanging down 
the back in long braided streamers. They generally ride at a 
quiet little jog-trot butter-and-egg-paee, while the gentleman eques- 



NEIGHBORHOOOD OF LIMA. 379 

trians dash to and fro at a wild gallop, and make the dust fly 
merrily. 

The verdant and flourishing appearance of the neighborhood of 
Lima is a matter of astonishment to the traveler, till the cause 
of this is known. It is not only the vapors and dews that con- 
tribute to this, but the circumstance, that in all the plains in Peru 
that lie between the Great Cordillera and the Pacific Ocean, the 
water is found invariably from three to four feet below the surface, 
thus compensating for the absence of rain by the facilities afforded, 
to irrigation, a practice which was universally resorted to by the 
ancient Peruvians, and adopted and continued by their Spanish 
conquerors. The skill of the Indian inhabitants had literally in- 
tersected all the cultivated country with the acequias, by which 
the waters flowing from the mountains are divided and subdivided 
into almost innumerable little channels for irrigation. 

But now about a mile from the capital, our vehicle, rolling amid, 
thick clouds of dust, has arrived at the avenue, or Alameda ; and 
the road runs between straight double rows of tall poplars and 
willow-trees, with a handsome promenade on each side (furnished 
with stone benches for all who wish to see omnibuses and donkeys, 
and enjoy volumes of dust) to the city : from this broad, splendid, 
avenue we pass through an arched gateway into Lima : this gate- 
Avay admits you within a lofty thick wall, which surrounds the 
city entirely, and forms its sole defense. 

We were in Lima, the capital of Peru I Peru, whose very 
name seems like a i'airy tale, and to mean a world of gold and sil- 
ver and precious stones. The land of the magnificent Children of 
the Sun, the stately Incas, who could oflxir a hall piled with gold 
as a ransom ; whose Spanish Viceroys, in later days, on state oc- 
casions, walked on pavements of solid silver I Away we rattled 
to the French hotel to which we had been recommended, but not 
on silver pavements, nor very praiseworthy stone ones. 

The houses in Lima are, I think, handsome. They frequently 
consist only of one story (on account of repeated earthquake visita- 
tions), though there are many exceedingly fine ones with two 
stories ; but these have very often a deserted air, and are out of 
repair and dilapidated, in consequence of having been abandoned 
by their original owners, who took alarm at their loftiness and 
supposed insecurity — and they now are sometimes tenanted by 
poorer families. There are, however, very many exceptions to this 
rule. 

The houses in general are surmounted with a flag-staff"; they 



380 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

have, I think, a remarkably Moorish air, and I was much struck 
with the resemblance of their very peculiar balconies to those I 
remember so well at Valetta, in Malta ; although these at Lima 
are very much longer and larger altogether ; indeed, I have lately 
seen some that form spacious apartments in themselves, beautifully 
furnished, carpeted, and decorated. But I will briefly describe 
them. 

You must imagine long lines, all along the fronts of the houses, 
of enormous verandas of wood, many projecting very far over the 
foot-pavements, from the second stories of the houses (which are 
called " altos" here). The lower part, probably to the height of 
three feet, or thereabouts, is entirely closed up along the extended 
front, and at different parts and at the tAvo terminations this im- 
mense, covered wooden balcony is supported on far projecting beams, 
with sculptured and variously-shaped ends, while from the inclosed 
portion to the roof are long, light shutters of lattice-work (or glass 
windows), which are depended, and swung from hinges at the top : 
if these are required to be open, there is, I think, a long, hooked 
bar, by which they can be fastened, and kept wide open ; but, oc- 
casionally the head is used by the fair Peruvians instead, who, with 
their arms resting on the light, wooden wall of the lower part of 
the balcony, keep back with that graceful mantilla'd head the 
light shutters. If the head is pushed out far enough, of course, all 
in the streets on all sides is visible ; but if the Senora objects to 
this, and is tired of the front scene, she has only to walk to either 
end, and take a complete side view. 

Most of these " miradors" are furnished with glass windows, 
now, but I believe this has only been done lately. These capa- 
cious verandas are not very unlike gigantic and enormously 
lengthened out opera-boxes, from which the spectator may observe 
all that the street presents of a " spectacle ;" and the very large 
and handsome ones, provided with delicate mats, or many-pat- 
terned carpets, and furnished with chairs and cushioned sofas, 
form a kind of conservatory-balcony, where the bright human 
flowers of beautiful Peru, guarded and shielded from wind and 
mist-like dews, may smile (and sometimes smoke !) in all security 
and in peace. 

The houses in Lima have large court-yards ; those in the more 
distinguished of them, are quite little plazas in themselves — but I 
will say more of them presently. 

We rattled noisily up to the great double-gates of the large 
French hotel, after passing through a number of busy, populous. 



BEAUTY OF LIMA. .'iSl 



looking streets, and soon after took possession of an apartment 
which, rather to our disappointment, did not look on the street, so 
that we found ourselves in a large saloon, verandaless and win- 
dowless. When the great gate-like doors, that open on a veiy 
broad and uncovered kind of semi-patio of stone, which has a stair- 
case ascending from the lower court-yard (for this hotel has two 
stories, and we are in the "alto"), are closed, we have no light 
except from a small " claraboya," or skylight, which shuts or 
, opens by means of long ropes, hanging down into the room. The 
bedrooms have small windows looking on the stone-paved corridor 
and down upon the court-yard, which court-yard is a thorough- 
fare. 

The immense arched gateway that leads to it in front, opens 
first into a broad covered passage-way, which in most houses is 
decorated with some arabesques or with a gaudy painting on either 
side, representing a variety of subjects, often scriptural, but occa- 
sionally mythological. Ours is, pleasantly enough for us, occupied 
on one side by the ample stall of a female fruit-vender, who has 
always a most abundant provision of delicious fruits, and who sits 
there from earliest dawn, I believe, to "dewy eve" — very dewy 
are generally the eves in rainless Lima. 

Without meaning any bad compliment to the inhabitants of this 
grand old capital, I am constrained to say, I think I never saw or 
heard so many asses as in Lima : their name is legion, and they 
bray with a hundred-donkey power. We are anxious to see the 
gentle Llamas, but it is said they very rarely come into the city. 
There are hosts of convicts here, and very villainous-looking ones. 
Notwithstanding dilapidation, donkeys, and convict gangs, how- 
ever, Lima is a very charming place, on the whole ; not gay and 
glittering as the Havana, nor beautiful and enchanting as Mexico, 
but with a thousand peculiarities and glories of her own, besides her 
majestically superb situation. Lima is like nothing but Lima, and 
as unlike all our mostly commonplace, though wealthy, and utterly 
civilized European cities as it is possible to imagine any thing to 
be I Herculaneum, hoisted above-ground, might in some few 
particulars partially resemble it. Yet no ; it would not I Ideal 
cities of halt-destroyed chateaux (V Esj)agne would be most like it I 

I can not help smiling to think of good-humored Madame J , 

at Panama, who knew but two great cities, London and Lima, 
and was perpetually talking of the two together, as if they were the 
Siamese twins of towns. " Ah, at London and Lima I used to go 
to shops and buy so and so; there's none here;" and, "But at 



382 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

London and Lima they do this and that ;" or, " When one is at 
Lima and London it is easy to find such and such things." And 
the difference is so ludicrously vast — they are such complete 
architectural antipodes to each other, and such antipodes in every 
thing else. 

Lima, which, besides its stately title of the City of Kings, M'as 
called proudly the City of a Thousand Towers and of a Hundred 
Gates, as if it were a nobler Spanish Thebes, is certainly quite the 
city of churches, steeples, domes, towers, palaces (in decay), ve- 
randas, colonnades, piazzas, porticos, patios, corridors, balconies, 
quadrangles, galleries, lattices, frescoes, arabesques, vestibules, 
cowled priests, ponchoed cavaliers and saya-y-mantoed ladies. 

I dare say the reader may have seen engravings of the latter ex- 
traordinary costume of the Lima ladies, which is now very con- 
siderably modified, and instead of looking as if they were walking 
about in elastic, closely-fitting, upright coffins, which they must 
formerly have had the appearance of doing, they look like very 
graceful ladies, floating along in an atmosphere of encircling black 
silk, and closely masked, only showing one bright black eye, as if 
they were so many fair Cyclopesses. 

I know not how it is, but something in the arrangement of this 
cloaking vail al>vays makes it appear to me as if the eye was in 

the middle of the cheek. In coming back from Mrs. A 's, 

the other day, we missed the turning into our street, and I asked 
one of these " Tapadaes," as they are called, the way ; and while 
she was courteously telling me, I tried to ascertain what it was 
that gave it, to me at least, that peculiar appearance. Perhaps it 
may be partly the extreme fullness of their flashing eyes, that 
makes the size of the suppressed (and perhaps somewhat cowpressad) 
nose seem less, and the exposed eye more prominent, and level with 
that feature — but I could not make it out satisfactorily at all. 

The English minister, and Mrs. A , are particularly kind 

and amiable to us. Mrs. A is a truly charming person. 

How I envy the exceeding fluency and correctness with which 
she talks Spanish. She took us out for a drive yesterday, and we 
were perfectly enchanted with the views in the vicinity of Lima, 
and with the town itself 

We crossed a very striking and picturesque stone bridge, thrown 

' across the sparkling Pv-imac, to go to one of the Alamedas. This 

bridge is old, having been built in 1610. The carriages enter it 

by a broad arch across the centre of the street, and there are two 

lesser arches crossing the two side pavements. Lofty, handsome 



VENDERS OF CIGARS. 383 

carved turrets and spires surmount these noble arches, and give 
the bridge a very imposing effect. They say every stone in this 
2')uente has been loosened by the dreadful earthquake. The river 
Rimac dashes boldly and brightly along over a rocky and ragged bed. 

This bridge joins the main portion of Lima to the suburb of 
San Lazaro, which would otherwise be separated from the prin- 
cipal part of the city by the river : it appears a very busy and 
animated thoi'oughfare. 

Thei'e are recesses, semi-circularly shaped, with stone benches, 
that open from the wide promenades along the bridge, and where 
often rests the visitor to Lima, gazing on the throngs that pass 
ceaselessly by, characteristically attired, and intent on their vari- 
ous errands of business or recreation. Beside him, perhaps, are 
several fair Limanians, in saya-y-manto, or dandy citizens, star- 
gazers on the one brilliant orb — that eye which is peeping out like 
a planet from many sable clouds. 

Near the entrance to this old, solid, yet fantastic bridge, are 
stationed sometimes venders of cigars. An old man, I have heard, 
sells here the cast-off stumps of these articles, arranged neatly on 
a tray. 

The view from this bridge is exceedingly lovely. If the eye 
travels down the silvery road of the river, its left bank is beheld 
richly embellished by the luxuriant gardens of magnificent old 
convents, and of the splendid mansions of the Peruvian million- 
aires. The view ends with the Pacific ! Then, if the glance is 
turned in the opposite direction, we scan the broad, verdant avenues 
of the lovely Alameda del Acho ; and beyond, the shadowy groves 
and gardens of the valley, and the glistening turrets of the Pan- 
theon ; the entire exquisite scene being bounded by that lower 
range of mountains which incloses the charming green valley of 
the Rimac. 

But the view beyond this is sublime indeed : the higher range 
of the glorious Cordilleras, when the clouds admit of that majestic 
sight, are seen, with their indestructible diadems of perpetual snow, 
towering on high, mountain behind mountain, summit above sum- 
mit, crests gleaming between crests, and peaks soaring beyond 
peaks ; an untrodden, undesecrated world between the earth and 
the spotless skies, shooting up its myriads of rocky spires — like 
natural conductors of the lightning and storms, as if to interpose 
that pure and higher part of creation, fresh as it came from the 
most awful hand of Omnipotence — betwixt the wrath of Heaven 
and the now sullied, blighted lower Earth. 



384 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Vain fancies I We have a securer shelter ; and where the 
humblest church lifts up the lowliest spire (as some eloquent writer 
once said), there is a better conductor of that awful lightning of 
wrath from our wretched heads, and from our fallen world ' 



CHAPTER XLVIII. 

The Great Plaza — The Cathedral of Lima— The Streets of that City — The 
Silversmiths — The Bells of Lima — Charitable Institutions — Churches and 
Convents — Handsome Houses — Palaces of the Past — Grotesque Paintmgs 
— Well-appointed Carriages — The Limani;ui Be<Tgar-woman — Particu- 
larities of Lima Ladies' Dress — Their Shoes — M. and Madame B 

— Their Daughter. 

The Great Plaza, a principal public square in Lima, is ex- 
tremely handsome. It has a large brazen fountain in the middle, 
said to be about forty feet high, surmounted with a figtire which 
represents, I believe, the Goddess of Fame bearing aloft her 
trumpet 

The old palace of Pizarro once stood in this square — on the 
north side, I am told ; but now its place is filled up with a hand- 
some colonnade, which has a great number of shops and stalls 
under it. This colonnade forms one side of the Plaza. The first 
stone of the famous old cathedral, on the other side, was laid by 
Pizarro, and his bones are said to repose in a vault beneath the 
sacred edifice. 

Some people think the cathedral a huge and clumsy mass of 
tasteless architecture ; but allowing that it has an abundance of 
defects, architecturally speaking, still there is something about it 
that is both pleasing and imposing. If you can fancy a gorgeous 
and fantastic temple in the clouds, when sunset casts its fleeting 
pomp over the skies, adorned with a thousand strange splendors, 
you may a little paint it to your imagination. There is a profu- 
sion of diversified rich coloring, and a mass of lavish tracery, and 
curioixs and quaint decorations on the front of the edifice. I intend 
to visit the interior before I go from Lima. 

There is an ecclesiastical building adjoining the cathedral. It 
is the Archiepiscopal Palace. The Government House is on an- 
other side of the square, and the covered colonnades or portales 
occupy the remainder. Under the portales, which of course open 
under their large and handsome arches to the Great Plaza, are 



CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 385 

numerous well-supplied fancy shops, and a great deal of exquisite 
gold and silver embroidery may be seen there. There are excel- 
lent "tiendas" (shops) also in the CaJIe Mercaderes, which is quite 
a French street, being almost entirely occupied by French shop- 
keepers. They display a prolusion of handsome and excellent 
goods, of various kinds. 

There is another street where the Peruvian silversmiths con- 
gregate chiefly, but they do not make much exhibition of their 
handiwork. The exquisite silver filagree work, however, is most 
surprisingly beautiful, and most elaborately and delicately Avrought ; 
but the specimens of this highly finished workmanship mostly come 
from the interior, and are made by the Indians. 

I never heard any thing like the sublime tone of the bells of 
Lima. It is the profoundest and most majestic sound imaginable, 
and resounds through the air as if the deep vibrations would dwell 
there, and brood, and never cease, lengthening and deepening on 
and on — the most unearthly yet most heautiful music I ever heard. 
The reason given for this extraordinary and matchless magnificence 
of tone, is the enormous quantity of silver in the bells. There was 
a large proportion originally, and this was added to, I am told 
here, during the casting of the bells, by devout persons throwing 
in, as oblations and ofiei'ings, almost innumerable silver coins, of 
divers weights and values. In short, the contents of half a mine 
of the precious metal almost are suspended in the air. 

The great cathedral bell is surpassingly glorious in its unfathom- 
ably deep peal of tremulous silver thunder — nay, it seems a thou- 
sand thunders rolling alar ! But the other bells at Lima are also 
very rich and harmonious in their sublime tones. 

There are several eleemosynary establishments in this city, 
among which the Foundling Hospital is said to be particularly 
well-managed, and a lunatic one particularly ill. There are a 
great many handsome churches and convents in Lima, and they 
are the prominent features in all parts of the city. They are 
mostly enormous structures, crowned by majestic domes, and tow- 
ers, and steeples, and displaying on their extensive fronts a perfect 
labyrinth of elaborate painting, complicated decorative designs, 
statuary, and carving. 

I hear that some of these immense churches and nunneries, in- 
close within their widely-extended walls very spacious and superb 
squares : the convents often have porticos, piazzas, and covered 
colonnades, beautifully built and finished, and supported one above 
another on highly-ornamented rows of splendid arches. Their 



3S6 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

massive walls are wholl)' covered with richly-figured, glazed porce- 
lain and Iresco paintings, their roofs artistically adorned and carved, 
and contiguons to them, or even within their vast encircling walls, 
are exquisite gardens of the richest shrnbs, and plants, and flow- 
ers, with gushing fountains and shadowy walks, from Avhich the 
busy world is shut ont, and where contemplation may dwell un- 
disturbed. I hear that the orders in Lima are exceedingly strict, 
and that generally no women even are admitted into the principal 
nunneries. 

We have seen here very handsome streets, and some regal-look- 
ing old houses. Some of the most splendid, we Avere informed, 
are now subdivided and let to a number of families in indiflerent 
circumstances — in tact, forming a little town in themselves. Still 
as we drove by and caught a casual glimpse through their enor- 
mous gateways — their gigantic fountained court-yards, their su- 
perb piazzas, and the remains of former gilding, and painting, and 
elaborate carving, and various showy and costly, though moulder- 
ing adornments, made those palaces of the past look like genii 
structures of the Land of Faery and sorcery, under some evil en- 
chanter's gloomy thrall and desolating spell. They are not in 
what is now considered the lashionable part of Lima. In the 
generality of houses here, beneath the covered A'erandas, there 
usually is a broad and handsomely-paved entrance to the court- 
yard, through massive and exceedingly high double gates (which 
are thickly studded over with strong brazen knobs). 

Around this ample court the house is built, and in those that 
are constructed of two stories, the stables, apartments for domes- 
tics, store-rooms and otiices open on this court-yard, and are on 
the same level with it. From thence ascends a flight of broad 
stairs to the vast galleries above, leading to the ditlerent suites of 
apartments occupied by the various members of the family, the 
great salas, or reeejition-rooms, cVe. 

The entrance is frequently a little shorn of its grandeur and im- 
posing otiect by having shops built along it : but when it is not 
thus disfigured, the line of the street is divided Irom the court- 
yard by a thick, lolty wall. The immense gates open into a wide 
covered passage-Avay of some length, which is adorned commonly 
on both sides with irescoes. The window-sills in the court-yards 
are usually gilt, in the houses of the wealthy, which, with the 
bright-colored jalousies, gives them a gay appearance. 

Occasionally, the handsomest and principal part of the stately 
mansion crosses the court, exactly opposite to the entrance. The 



GROTESQUE PAINTINGS. 387 

whole of this portion of the building is then adorned by a noble 
portico, and the front of the mansion is decorated by elaborate iron 
open-work, brilliantly gilt or bronzed over, and presenting: a very 
rich appearance. These house have ordinarily only one story, and 
have rooms of very great height and vast size. At the back of 
this principal or central portion of the house is another lesser court- 
yard, called the " traspatio ;" it is a sort of kitchen and servants' 
court-yard. 

On driving on the Alameda the other day, we observed a large 
wall, built along one side of the tree-shaded promenade, and cover- 
ed all over with grotesque-looking paintings, the color of which 
seemed as fresh and bright as if just done. I did not examine it 
closely enough to see accurately the subjects, as we dashed rapidly 

on, drawn by Mrs. A 's beautiful and spirited horses ; but I 

imagine it to be one of Avhieh 1 have read a description, and which 
is called by the natives, " El mundo al revez," where the system 
of nature is entirely reversed, and dogs are hanging their masters; 
horses I'iding on men's backs ; and some of the finny tribe, repre- 
sented standing a-tail-tip, with fishing-rods in their mouths, ang- 
ling for ci-dei^ant gentlemen-sportsmen who are seen nibbling at 
the bait ! In short, all is almost in as great a state of confusion 
and disorder, as if the whole world, instead of a part, had sudden- 
ly become French or Irish, and were altering every thing to their 
hearts' content ; for even themselves, must and do own, that 
while among the noblest people on the earth, they are certainly 
the fondest of change and excitement. 

In driving through the streets here, we often meet handsome 
and well-appointed carriages ; some remarkably so. We saw a 
really splendid one the other day, with beautiful horses, that might 
have been transported to Hyde Park, and admired there. The 
ladies occupying it were all in Parisian bonnets. I thought they 
were foreigners. Alas I no ; they were Limanians : and they had 
deserted thus the loveliest of all head-dresses — their own matchless 
mantillas. The saya-y-manto we see, by the way, worn almost 
in its original quaintness and eccentricity, by an old beggar-wo- 
man, who comes sometimes to the great gates of our sitting-room 
while we are at breakfast, and asks for money, bread, milk, clothes, 
any thing — every thing. 

She has never favored us with a sight of more than her one eye, 

holding her vail over her face with as much care (before only V 

and me) as I once saw a Turkis'n beggar-woman bestow upon 
her coarse yashmack, who when we ofiered her half a handful of 



38S TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

small coins if she would drop her yashmack, indignantly refused, 
and marched away with the step of an insulted queen. 

We should not have guessed the mendicant "tapada" was old 
but from her shriveled hands, and quavering, cracked voice, so 
well disguised was she. We were told she had formerly been 
tolerably rich, but had been reduced by different misfortunes. 
Her once handsome saya-y-manto was not exactly tattered, but 
the rich black satin had lost its lustre, and grown diu"^' with age. 
The saya is a silken or satin petticoat, stitched neatly in very 
narrow plaits, and thickly quilted and lined. This used to cling 
like a web of wax around the form ; but now, fitting at the waist, 
it hangs in full folds down to the satin-slippered feet. 

This petticoat, formerly, I believe, was almost uniformly black, 
but in these days (though frequently it is still of sable hue) it is 
very often blue or brown. 

The manto is a black silk vail, of impenetrable thickness, drawn 
up from under the waist of the silken saya, and gracefully gather- 
ed over the shoulders and head as a sort of hood, very much resem- 
bling the Maltese faldetta (and no doubt both have originated 
from Moorish costume and customs), though so much more con- 
cealing the face. All the upper part of the form is thus closely 
covered and disguised, except the one eye. One hand is occupied 
in holding this manto firmly across the masked face, and the 
other from time to time may possibly be allowed to pass through 
a little opening in the manto, more especially if its fair owner con- 
siders it deserving of admiration, and if its small fingers are en- 
riched with sparkling jewels. 

The embroidered ends of a many-colored scarf or shawl are per- 
mitted to pass through this same opening, generally fringed and 
flowered. All wear satin shoes and silk stockings, even those in 
the most tattered, woni-out habiliments. We are told, that the 
extravagance formerly shown in this article of dress was very great. 
If a more than usual quantity o£ dewy moisture had made the 
streets of the capital as muddy as if a heavy shower of rain had 
fallen (and this is not unfrequently the case), the ladies would im- 
mediately eagerly hasten to make their appearance in the most 
delicate new white satin shoes, which of course could never be 
worn again ; hoping that by speedily "making hay \\4iile the sun 
shone" (a very inappropriately quoted proverb !), in the morning 
they might have the good Ibrtune to spoil entirely one exquisite 
pair of zaj^atos de raso, in the afternoon they might possibly have 
the superlative felicity (if the inexorable climate did not cruelly 



HEROISM OF A LADY. 389 

disappoint them by drying up tlie moisture) of destroying another 
pair, and in the evening even of severely damaging a third. 

This refinement of luxury is now rather out of fashion, and the 
Lima ladies are no longer such empresses of all the Russias, with 
regard to their chaussurc. The reader knows, perhaps, that the 
fair Czarina never wears a dress twice. 

Mr. P , the English clergj'man here, called to-day, with his 

very amiable wiie; and also Mrs. B (the wife of one of the 

English merchant-princes here), who is extremely agreeable and 
pleasing. The next apartments to ours are occupied by a French 

lady and gentleman, M. and Madame du C . M. du C 

had the misfortune to break his arm, by a fall from his mule, in 
crossing the Isthmus of Panama, and he has never recovered it. 
He is chief Secretary, I believe, to the French Legation here; 
but as his right arm has suflered; and as the same arm was unfor- 
tunately injured seriously, some time previously to this disaster, in a 
duel, it is feared he will have to resign his situation, and return to 
France. They have a little fair-haired, smiling daughter, who is 
a wonderful contrast to the dark-eyed natives, as they pass to and 
fro. 



CHAPTER XLIX. 

Signal Instance of the Heroism of a Lady — The Procession of the Orafion — 
A Lottery in the Grand Plaza — How conducted — Distinguished Visitors 
— Choriilos — The Sale of " Almas," or Souls — The Public Museum — Por- 
traits of the Spanish Viceroys — Mummies of Peruvian Incas — Beautiful 
stuffed Birds — Maneo Capac — Who where the first lucas? — The Chil- 
dren of the Sun — Progress in Civilization of old Peru. 

We are still at Lima, waiting for the steamer. 

The other day I had a visit from an English lady, residing here 
now, who has exhibited such heroism and pi'esence of mind as 
perhaps hardly any one ever displayed belbre, under such peculiarly 
trying circumstances. It appears that the ship she came out in was 
commanded by a very incompetent, inexperienced, and weak-mind- 
ed captain, quite imfit for the situation, and always intoxicated, 
till at last he became wholly and utterly incapable of managing 

the ship. Mrs. S was in deep mental affliction at the time, 

but unhesitatingly (finding there was no one in the vessel who 



SOO TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

could take the command) assumed the responsibihty of navigating 
the ship herself. Every one knows how difficult the navigation 
in going round Cape Horn is, yet this skillful and strong-minded 
lady succeeded in bringing the ship safely to Lima, assisted only 
by a very youthful nephew. 

It might be imagined a person who could act thus would be 
masculine, and rough, perhaps, in deportment and manner. No- 
thing of the kind. This lady is eminently feminine, has a very 
mild and sweet expression of countenance, and is particularly gen- 
tle and pleasing. She never alludes to the subject herself; but I 
could not resist one day asking her a little about it, though fearful 
of awakening melancholy recollections in her mind. 

She spoke with the utmost modesty of her own wonderful per- 
formance ; and said, in speaking of her arrival at Lima (where 
she came to rejoin her husband, who had left England previously), 
that, though deeply grateful to a merciful Providence for having 
so graciously protected her and her children, yet this was, perhaps, 
the most painful moment of her life. 

I mentioned ihat at the time she took the command of the ship 
she was in deep grief: she had just lost an adored child, a little 
daughter, who had gradually faded and sunk from the time of 
their quitting the English shores. On their arrival at Callao, she 
and her children were on deck, anxiously looking for the husband 
and the father ; but she knew he would miss the one lost treasure ; 
and when she saw him earnestly gazing with growing anxiety, 
deepening fast into sorrow and terror, as he scanned the diminished 
group, she felt her heart oppressed almost to breaking within her. 

The sweet simplicity and tenderness with which she related 
these touching circumstances were most winning — most interest- 
ing : how evident was it that that noble heart, undaunted amid 
terrible dangers, was one of the softest and warmest that ever beat 
in a woman's bosom ! This afl'ecting tale has made a deep im- 
pression in Lima. No wonder ! How often has conduct not half 
as extraordinary and sublime been lauded to the skies I What 
true courage was that she displayed in conduct which demanded 
so much energy, so much promptitude, decision, and selfreliance, 
and self-forgetf'ulness, too ! 

As we sit in our claraboya'd drawing-room here, we hear fre- 
quently a bell ringing in the court-yard just below, which is a 
thoroughfare. It is the Host being carried to some sick person. 
The sound of the bell is usually accompanied by a lugubrious and 
rather monotonous chant. If in the evening, a number of attend- 



LOTTERY IN THE GRAND PLAZA. 391 

ants (often Indians or negroes) generally carry lanterns, and walk 
on either side of the procession. The priest, bearing his sacred 
charge, walks between these rows of light ; a canopy is borne 
over his head by ibur boys, and a crowd of people sometimes fol- 
lows the procession. Every person remains uncovered while it 
passes, and ujran their knees. 

There is one moment here, as in most of the South American 
countries and cities, very impre.ssive, fugitive as it is — it is the 
moment of the Oracion, when the great cathedral bell turns all 
the air to a most heavenly thunder-music. Then every hat is 
reverentially lifted, and every lip seems to tremble with a whis- 
pered word of prayer ; then the parent lays au affectionate hand 
on the little child's bowed head ; and all seem, for one brief mo- 
ment, raised I'rom earth, its cares, and business, and interests. 
Even the lottery-man, who was hallooing " Suerte, suerte I" stops 
at the unfini.shed word, and suddenly pulls up his curveting voice 
on its haunches I Soon 'lis o'er ; and the bells ring again — again 
— a joyous peal. But impressive as this looks to a stranger, there 
is too much reason to fear it is a custom only mechanically fol- 
lowed by those who have observed it continually. 

We saw a curious sight — to us at least — the other evening, in 
returning from a drive with Mrs. A . This was the lottery- 
drawing, which is very formally conducted, and which takes place 
in the Grand Plaza, exactly opposite the cathedral. A temporary 
platform and apartment are erected there, which in front are 
open to the public. In the forepart of this stage are to be seen 
several hollow wooden globes, of a large size, painted of a conspic- 
uous yellow color, and turning on the stands which sustain them 
by means of a crank. Into each ball opens a little door, and by 
the side of each of the globes the diflerent numbers that are to go 
into it M'ere exhibited on inclined planes, so as to be exposed to 
the public view : these numbers were painted upon little flat, 
circular counters. 

Behind all this display and array sit three official-looking per- 
sons, the judges, grave as an equal number of Lord Chancellors on. 
the wool-sack ; then three venerable old gentlemen are seen who 
have to turn the aforesaid globes ; and there is a triad of little 
boys (who, we were informed, are orphan children, usually from 
the Foundling Hospital — a curious education for them — this teach- 
ing the young idea how to gamble) ; and these complete the dra- 
math 2:>er$once. 

Generally, as the expected hour approaches, the Plaza becomes 



392 , TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

gradually filled. When we passed through, the crowd was gath- 
ered densely around the place where the stage was erected. Armed 
soldados, shovel-hatted and cassocked priests, friars barefooted, 
mothers with their children, women in their curious incognita, 
the saya-y-manto, cavaliers with rattling spurs, and ragged negroes 
with glittering teeth ; and numhers of eager, staring individuals, 
in all kind of dresses, and of many difierent colors and complexions, 
stood around. 

At the proper moment, the three old Fates who turn the globes, 
cast the numbers into them, on the one side thousands, on the 
other tens, and in the middle hundreds. These being rolled back- 
ward and forward three or lour times, the doors are opened at the 
same moment, and each of the little fellows appointed to the office 
takes out a number : he does not look at it, but holds it out with 
outstretched hand to the crowd. Then the boys go up to the 
table, and display the numbers to the judges, who record them; 
and having given the proper information to one of the old worthies 
who turn the wooden globes, he chants it out, and announces the 
possessor of the prize to the motley assemblage (who are awaiting 
the decision of fortune) in a sonorous voice. 

Then the numbers are put into the globes again, and the self- 
same process is repeated, till the whole of the prizes have been 
drawn and disposed of. Then the multitude disperses ; away ffit 
the sayas-y-mantos, perhaps with a tear of disappoinment clouding 
the brilliancy of the one solitary eye ; away trot tatterdemalions 
on teetotaller-like donkeys, who look as if they had abjured not 
only drinking this or that, but eating and drinking altogether ; and 
off march dingy soldiers, with a fringe of rags adorning their mul- 
tiform uniform. 

These lotteries belong to a society called the " Beneficencia," and 
their profits are bestowed on charitable institutions and hospitals.* 
The Beneficencia, I believe, farms the lottery out ; and in a single 
year, the sale of the lottery tickets brought about forty-three thou- 
sand dollars. So fond are the Limanians of this species of gam- 
bling, that at the shops there are frequently little lotteries and raffles. 

Ideas are said to be becoming very much liberalized ; and I 
have heard from good authority that some of the priests even 
have lately shown a mo.st tolerant and enlightened spirit, and 
have written and preached in a strain that evinced an extraordi- 
nary change in their once bigoted opinions. 

* There may be edncationul establishments at Lir.m. but I know of none. 



DISTINGUISHED VISITORS. 393 

I had a visit to-day from Monsieur and Madame F , and 

Mr. and Mrs. W . Monsieur F commands the French 

squadron in the Pacific, and is at Callao in his fine frigate 
" L'Algerie :" he is an exceedingly gentlemanhke and agreeable 

person, and Madame F is very beautiful and pleasing : she is 

of an Irish family and is the niece of the celebrated Marshal 
Bugeaud. She was married at Algiers, and now in her husband's 
noble frigate " L'Algerie," she intends to go round the world with 

him. From hence Monsieur F seems to think they will 

proceed to the Sandwich Islands, and afterwards to China. 

We dined with Mr. and Mrs. A last night. A Peruvian 

lady and her daughter-in-law came in to visit her ; they were 
dressed much like two Parisians, and with many handsome jewels. 
The ladies retain their own surname after marriage. They asked 
many questions relative to Mexico, and were full of grace and 
intelligence ; the younger one spoke French. 

We had a charming drive yesterday. The streets seemed 
fuller and gayer than usual. The Lima winter is now coming on, 
and the weather is becoming very cool : the fashionable watering- 
place, Chorillos, is quite deserted. When Lima and Callao 
happen to be at war, which is not a very extraordinary circum- 
stance, Chorillos is sometimes used by merchant-ships as a port, in 
place of Callao. During the bathing season it is said a good deal 
of gambling goes on there, and heaps of gold load the gambling- 
tables, and large fortunes are risked and exchanged ; but Chorillos 
is now only tenanted by negroes and native Indians, and Lima is 
full. 

Besides meeting numbers of handsome carriages, we were often 
in danger of running against large droves of donkeys, who are so 
loaded and covered with heaps of fire-wood, fagots, and immense 
bundles of clover, that they look like self-moving stacks, and fill up 
nearly the whole street. The foot-passengers have to hurry out 
of their way at the cry of the negro-drivers, who shout " Ciudado," 
as they drive on their little moving mountains of sticks and grass; 
then there are various salesmen and saleswomen, the milk-venders 
and water carriers, and all carrying their goods on the backs of 
donkeys. 

At the corners of some of the streets may be seen certain pic- 
torial devices, to hint to survivors and mourners their obligations, 
to those who have gone before them to the grave, and are supposed 
to be suffering the pains of purgatory. Representations of the 
head and upper part of the human figure are exhibited, done to 



394 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

the life — or death — surrounded by flames of fire. They call these 
mournful pictures "Almas," or souls, and they are intended to 
display the actual state and position of the unassisted and un- 
relieved departed friends of any of the passers-by who may have 
neglected this duty. 

These unpleasant fancy-portraits might produce lasting uncom- 
fortable impressions if there were not means at hand by which the 
situation of the persons represented could be ameliorated. Fortu- 
nately all this has been considerately taken into account : a small 
mysterious box stands near for the reception of any sum the sur- 
vivors may like to introduce into it for the relief of the "Almas." 

What crowds in the streets, and what many-colored crowds 
too ! The Negroes, the Mestizos, the Indians, Zambos and Cho- 
los, and some of the more humble of the olive-colored descend- 
ants of the old proud race of Castile, all go peaceably donkeying 
on together, and occasionally a fair North American or Anglo- 
Saxon, like Mrs. P , with her blue eyes and light-colored hair, 

goes vision-like by. Verily there is a great deal of variety on all 
sides. 

There are so many of our fair countrywomen, and of the lily- 
browed American ladies to be seen from time to time at Lima, 
that I think the makers and inserters of dolls' eyes may venture 
boldly to send some blue-eyed ones to South America. I see the 
"Morning Chronicle" tells us that none but black-eyed puppets 
can be imported here, because the black orbs are universally the 
wear in these regions ; so those with azure peepers would be looked 
upon as unnatural monsters. 

We have been to see the Public Museum, which Ave found 

interesting. Madame F was there, accompanied by one or 

two of the French officers. In the room you first enter, the eye 
is struck by a lai'ge number of old portraits, the size of life ; these 
are the likenesses of the forty-five Spanish Viceroys, beginning 
with the far-famed Pizarro : his countenance was rather striking. 
They show in the vaults beneath the cathedral, a mouldering 
corpse, supposed to be that of the Great Conqueror of Peru ; but 
it seems extremely doubtful whether it is so or no. 

The Viceroys arc dressed in diHorcnt old Spanish costumes, 
showing the rise, progress and change of fashions. From black 
habiliments, M'ith lofty, starched-up rufls, they advance into rich 
and flourished embroidery, thickening till it is almost a golden armor. 
After a while the tide of this lustrous embroidery ebbs a little, and 
only besprinkles lightly the extreme borders of the vestments. 



MUMMIES.— STUFFED BIRDS. 395 

But there is a more touching and melancholy sight than this to 
be seen in the Museum. Under cases of glass are placed, in a 
sitting or crouching postiu-p, certain mummies, exactly as they 
were taken from their ancient sepulchres. Their legs are crossed 
and bent : their stiliencd arms crossed over their lifeless breasts, 
with the elbows jilaced as if resting ui)ou the knees, and the 
beardless chins are supported on the liands : their teeth — though 
some ihw, if I recollect rightly, are missing — were splendid still — 

large superb rows of glittering ivory (just what Sir J. C 

would have called a magnificent dinner-set), and a little rusty 
straggliiig hair yet adhered to their scalps. 

These mummies are asserted to be tlio.se of the ancient and 
much civilized Incas of gorgeous Peru. Well may they grin with 
that sardonic expression, ai'ler all they have witnessed I Since 
the overthrow of their own noble race, what change, what per- 
plexity, what wars, what dissensions I 

But Peru is beginning to (eel the vilality of the mighty spirit 
of the age ; and if she, and the other South American countries, 
can learn in time the diflerenee — the vast diflerence — between 
real liberty and license, all may yet be well with them, and 
Nature may not in vain have thrown all her choicest treasures at 
the feet of these, her spoiled children. 

There are a great number of huacos (or images) and earthen 
vases, aboriginal antiquities, and other curio.sities taken from the 
old Indian graves, and some sepulchral vessels of solid gold and 
silver, collected here. There is a library in the same edifice, con- 
taining nearly thirty thousand volumes, among which are some 
books of great value. They are exceedingly well arranged. 

There were stuffed birds in another room of the nmseum, to go 
to which we paisscd between two of the Indian mummies, who, 
■with their brilliant teeth exposed, seemed grinning with a sort of 
cadaverous civility, and appeared like mournful guardians of the 
display of some of the natural glories of their country. Stuffijd 
birds of the most dazzlingly splendid plumage are beautifully ar- 
ranged here. All the most vivid hues of tlie rainbow strike the 
eye, and a few colors, it seemed, over and above that. One bird 
was quite preternaturally resplendent; its wonderful blaze of 
feathers seemed like concentrated es.sence of sapphires, diamonds, 
carbuncles, and all kinds of precious stones. There were some 
colos.sal albatrosses. These enormous birds on the wing must look 
a little like flying elephants dressed in white muslin. 

After spending some time pleasantly in examining the different 



396 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

objects in that interesting room, we took leave of the sumptuous 
birds and the preserved Incas, and M'ent to pay one or two visits. 

The first of the Incas of Peru we have some slight grounds for 
claiming as a countryman ; and to him Peru owed its prosperity, 
its remarkable advance in civilization, and the development of its 
industrial energies. 

Before the establishment of that religion, of which Manco Capac 
was the founder, the Indian tribes of Peru were living in the same 
state of savase barbarism as the other nations of this race. They 
subsisted entirely on the products of the chase, and of their rude 
fisheries : the vanquished, in their sanguinary combats, were torn 
to pieces by their lerocious enemieg when made prisoners. They 
worshiped the most hideous and hateful animals, and also lightnings, 
storms, gloomy caverns, and frightful precipices. Sometimes they 
would kneel in abject adoration before the trunks of giant trees, and 
at other times fling themselves down in terror-stricken superstition 
to worship the burning volcanoes, whose raging fury was tearing up 
the entrails of the earth, and demolishing their fragile altars and 
false gods. 

At length — according to the story, about eight hundred years 
ago — a change took place, and a stranger, as they believed, came 
to them from the sun — but first let us see what the old Spanish 
chroniclers say of the name of the country. It is pretended, though 
it can not be known M'ith what truth, that the first adventurers 
having found a native fishing in a river, asked him what the 
country was called. The terrified Indian, not rightly understand- 
ing them, told them " Baru," and "Pelu," the first, it is supposed, 
being his own name, and the latter the name of rivers in general : 
the Spanish discoverers compounded these words into the present 
name of Peru. 

It was very difficult for the Spaniards to ascertain who the first 
sun-worshiping Incas really were. You know that the old native 
tradition makes the original Inca, Manco Capac, and his sister, 
and spouse, Oella-huaco, the Children of the Sun. Historians and 
philosophers, in attempting to discover for them a less supernatural 
and more probable origin, have hesitated whether to pronounce 
them natives of Europe or Asia. 

Among conflicting opinions, some have believed them to be de- 
scendants of the Scandinavians who first are supposed to have land- 
ed on the American Continent in the eleventh century ; otliers 
again declare them to have been Mongolians of tlie family of 
Genghis Khan, brought to this coast by contrary winds and tempests. 



THE CHILDREN OF THE SUN. 397 

Among other stories, the following absurd one is related by 
some : — An Englishman, about eight hundred years ago, was 
wrecked on the rich coast of Peru : the chief who was then reign- 
ing over barbarous hordes of savages there, demanding who he 
was, was told in answer by the shipwrecked islander that he was 
an "Englishman." The Indians repeated the word with a very 
natural mispronunciation (as the North American Indians are said 
to have pronounced English " Yankisk," whence Yankee), " Incas- 
onati," and they added to this very politely, Cocapac, or most beau- 
tiful, and made altogether Inca-manco-capac. Probably the gen- 
tleman who v/as so complimented by the copper-colored bai'barians, 
rejoiced in a profusion of sandy hair, unkempt and uncut after his 
stormy voyage ; for his golden, glittering locks made them think he 
was born of the sun's fire — he was worshiped accordingly. 

Other accounts, which favor the belief that a fair-haired English- 
man and his wife Avere shipwrecked here, state that for a length of 
time they hid themselves in the mountains, and after a number 
of years came down to the astonished Indians with their children, 
whose golden locks flowed luxuriantly down their backs, and pro- 
claimed themselves Children of the Sun, sent by that considerate 
luminary to reign over them, and teach them many useful arts. 
They were hailed with reverential joy, and became supreme rulers 
over the credulous people. 

These enlightened chiefs established a firm and stable theocratic 
autocracy, which bound every individual in the country in the 
closest (yet not galling) chains ; and from whatever source they 
sprang, there is no doubt that the princely Incas, adored as sacred 
personages, and obeyed as temporal sovereigns, thoroughly under- 
stood the people over whom they reigned, and conferred upon them 
the inestimable blessings of peace and of civilization. No means 
were neglected by the Incas which could secure their widely-spread 
influence, strengthen their eminent position, and perpetuate their 
poM'er. Not only their own persons were reverenced, but all that 
was in any way connected with the sovereign dignity, was held in 
such religious veneration, that any individual having occasion to 
visit the metropolitan and imperial city of Cuzco, was under the 
necessity of making profound obeisances to all those whom he hap- 
pened to meet coming from it. Notwithstanding that too many 
highly interesting evidences of the progress the Peruvians made 
under their energetic masters were ruined and destroyed by the 
unscrupulous and ruthless invaders, yet enough has remained to 
bear witness to the wonderful strides that wisely-governed people 



39S TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

maile in agriculture aud political science, in arms, in arts, in archi- 
tecture, and in manufacturing industry. 

Defaced though their temples and other noble structures are, 
still -we are told they excite lively admiration, and awaken a pleased 
astonishment. 



CHAPTER L. 

Manco Capac and his Wife — Their Instruction of the Peruvians — Old Peru- 
vian Roads — Bull-fights at Lima — Mode of conducting them — Spectators 
at them — Limanian Ladies — Beautiful Specimens of Peruvian Art and 
Ingenuity — Silver ornamented I'^ruits — Lima Burial-places — The Aman- 
caes — The Fiesta of St. John — Tlie Valley of Amancaes — The Flower of 
that Name — The Streets of Lima after the Fiesta — Concerts given by a 
French Lady — Fruits of Lima — The Grenadilla — " Italia" — Custom of 
washing Plates by the lower Orders in Lima — The Gorgonian Servant — 
" Huacos" and other Curiosities found in Peruvian Sepulchres — The " Se- 
fiorita"' — A Garden in the Suburbs — Its numerous Trees, Shrubs, and 
Flowers — Enervating Climate of Lima. 

I SHOULD like much to go to Cuzco, but I fear it would be too 
fatiguing a journey for my little girl. 

Probably the most striking vestiges of the civilization of the an- 
cient inhabitants of the country are to be found there. Manco 
Capac, the first Inca, taught the Indians to plow, to sow, and 
also to irrigate the fields, Avhich so greatly contributed to the fer- 
tility of the land. His thrifty Queen Consort, the fair Daughter 
of the Sun, did not disdain to instruct the female i)art of the popu- 
lation in the simple arts of spinning, carding wool, and making 
clothes for themselves and their husbands and children ! The 
rude altars erected to the savage beasts of the field in the forests 
were demolished ; the chase, as a means of subsistence, was aban- 
doned ; the earth was carefully cultivated, and peace and content 
smiled over the now fruitful and happy land. The worship of the 
sun was made the ruling spirit of all their institutions. 

These people were ignorant of the art of writing, but they skill- 
fully preserved the memory of particular events by bold paintings, 
and by knotted cords of a variety of colors, in which latter art they 
were singularly expert, and show'ed great ingenuity. They con- 
structed remarkably fine roads : the route from Quito to Cuzco 
was five hundred leagues in length, and there was another of 



OLD PERUVIAN ROADS.— BULL-FIGHTS. 309 

the same extent that traversed the lower country, nearer to the 
ocean. 

In addition to these were a great number of other roads, inter- 
secting the empire of the Incas in all direction.s. These roads are 
described to be of peculiar construction, and must have demanded 
much labor. They Avere raised terraces of earth, generally about 
forty feet broad, filling up the hollows of the valleys, and forming 
a regular level way. At intervals along these superb roads were 
to be seen stately temples, hospices and Peruvian caravansaries 
(open at all times and seasons to wayfarers and travelers), arsenals, 
fortresses, and villages. 

It is imposssible not to feel indignant at reading the recital of 
the barbarous conduct of the old Spaniards toward this noble, civ- 
ilized and inoflensive people. A late Spanish writer has ingeniously 
attempted (while acknowledging the melancholy fiicts, which he 
candidly confesses are too clearly substantiated for him to dispute), 
to prove that these black deeds were the crimes of the Age, and 
not of the Spanish nation. There is undoubtedly some truth in 
this, but not quite so much, it is to be feared, as the accompli.shed 
author would fain himself evidently believe. 

I should perhaps have been tempted for once to go to a bull-fight 
here, but none have taken place since we have been .sojourning at 
Lima. They are said to very superior to those at Havana, which 
are miserable, and only attended by the lowest of the ])opulace ; 
horses of the most wretched description, quite Iji'oken down, and 
staggering from weakness, alone being used there, and the whole 
spectacle painful and horrible. In Havana, the elite of society are 
too fastidious and refined to tolerate bull-baiting ; here, on the con- 
trary, it is generally allowed to be brilliant and well-appointed, 
for all Lima attends it ; and for a lew days before it actually takes 
place, the excitement and state of joj^ous anticipation into which 
the Peruvian capital is thrown, is described as being intense. 

On the morning of the gala day, a gay procession parades all the 
principal streets of Lima, exhibiting to the admiring gaze of the 
multitude the splendid equipments by which the victims are to be 
adorned when they make their appearance in the ring, and also 
displaying, for the inspection of the curious, some of the ingenious 
instruments by which the poor creatures are to be tormented. This 
procession is accompanied by a band of music, ordinarily consisting 
of some decrepit clarionets and valetudinarian flutes and flageolets, 
in various states and stages of infirmity, and one or two superan- 
nuated drums. 



400 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

After these, are borne, stretched out on ornamented frames, the 
rich coverings of gaudy silk, all glittering with spangles, and foil 
and tinsel, which are to be thrown on the backs of the bulls ; then 
come, attached to poles, carried by boys, the short, sharp spikes 
which are intended to be thrust into the bodies of the enraged 
animals. Each of these is brilliantly decorated with fanciful fig- 
ures of various kinds, cut out in gilt and bright- colored paper, 
and ingeniously enveloped in light, airy, net-work balloons. Fol- 
lowing these, come the most prominent objects of the procession — 
three or four figures of the size of life, or larger, which are carried 
high above the heads of the gaping crowd. 

These enormous puppets or images are hollow, and are formed 
of reeds, with an outward covering of painted paper, and contain 
a quantity of explosive fireworks. These figures are placed in the 
arena, and of course are attacked by the bull, and by their explo- 
sions, help to increase his rage and fury. Sometimes a negro or 
mulatto is represented in an absurd attitude, and ridiculously ac- 
coutred ; sometimes an English cottage-girl, such as you see in old 
prints, in the pretty costlime of past days, with a gipsy bonnet on 
her head, and a flower-basket on each arm ; and occasionally a 
London or Parisian dandy is exhibited, preposterously caricatured. 
They sometimes put dwarfs in little pits in the ring, with enormous 
liead-dresses of red and yellow feathers ; the feathers dip and dis- 
appear when the bull rushes at them, to his great surprise. 

Thus are the people wounJ up to a prosier pitch of enthusiastic 
expectation ; and when the day comes, all is animation and delight. 
The vast uncovered amphitheatre where the bull-fights take place, 
is at the farthest extremity of one of the Alamedas. It is sur- 
rounded with a vast number of boxes and benches, and is capable of 
accommodatinc:, with comfort and security, many thousand persons. 

In the middle of the arena there is a little inclosure of posts. 
This inclosure is of a circular shape, and the posts are near enough 
together to prevent the entrance of the bull ; while a man, if in 
imminent danger, can with facihty introduce himself between them, 
and there remain in safety. 

When the time approaches for the exhibition, the populace, in 
dense multitudes, stream toward the amphitheatre, along the 
beautiful " Alameda del Acho," beneath whose over-shadowing 
trees the Indian female stall-keepers sell " picante," and " chicha," 
and the native brandy, "pisco." 

Ladies are seen rapidly dashing past in their handsome "ber- 
linas," or " volantas ;" cavaliers go caracoling along on their fiery 



PERUVIAN INGENUITY. 401 

steeds, which are decked out with silver-embossed and glittering 
trappings ; and the huge amphitheatre is soon overflowingly crowd- 
ed with spectators of all ages, sizes, classes and colors, and with a 
fair sprinlding of inquisitive visitors from distant countries, too ; 
and the boxes are resplendent with thousands of bright eyes, and 
vividly-colored shawls, and with the rich gold-embroidered uniforms 
of military officers. 

Some saya-y-mantos appear among the lovely crowd of Seiioras ; 
the open benches are filled with Indians, negroes, soldiers, peasants, 
zambos, cholos, &c. Three or four bulls are generally sacrificed, 
and then the sport terminates ; and the crowd — of course greatly 
edified — wend their way back again to their splendid mansions in 
the capital, or their rustic " chacras" (Indian cottages) in the 
neighboring hamlets. 

We dined again with Mr. and Mrs. A , whose kind and 

friendly attentions are unceasing. After dinner, a Limanian lady 
came in, who seemed a highly refined and sensible person, and who 
is considered one of the most accomplished and intellectual of the 
ladies in this capital. Her complexion was extraordinarily dark ; 
so that indeed I took her at first for an Indian. She is a person 
of much distinction, and of pure Castilian descent, I believe. 

We had several opportunities of seeing the ladies of the coun- 
try at Mrs. A 's little soirees : they have generally glorious 

eyes, and their skins are not darker than those of Spanish women. 
On Sunday, after the service at the little English chapel of the 
Legation, a number of mantilla'd Peruvian ladies came to pay 
the fair mistress of the mansion a visit. Among them were two 
Guayaquil ladies, both very handsome, with very delicate, and 
exquisitely fair complexions, extremely regular features, and eyes 
like black suns — if such a simile may be allowed. Their manners 
were as prepossessing as their appearance. 

Mr. Yates, an English gentleman from Liverpool, who is ac- 
quainted with one of my brothers, called the other day, and brought 
a large number of beautiful specimens of Peruvian art and ingenu- 
ity, to show us. Quantities of dried fruit were among the articles ; 
these were most fantastically decorated and framed with sparkling 
silver ; some so delicately done, that the still naturally-colored 
fruit seemed to be embossed with glittering drops of the diamond- 
dew of morning. Mr. Yates is going to send these curiosities to 
his daughter in England : he is married to a Danish lady whom 
he first met at Lima. He is here now on business of importance, 
which is under the consideration of Congress at present. 



402 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

The silver-ornamented fruits I have described, it is customary 
for persons in society to present to one another on feast days, and 
occasions of rejoicing, a pretty and graceful little attention. The 
most elaborately-wrought specimens are usually made by the nuns. 
Among other things, were some exquisitely-finished peacocks and 
flowers, in whose construction the fair artists displayed extraordi 

nary skill. Mr. Yates and Mrs. S have presented us with 

some of the silver-encased fruits, but I fear the silver will turn . 
black during our journey across the Isthmus, which is at this 
time of year the reverse of Lima : here there is no rain, and there 
it is all rain. 

Mrs. S gave me a sad and sickening account of a visit to 

one of the burying-places here ; it reminded me much of the hor- 
rors of the Campo Santo at Naples. She said in one case, where 
there was some obstruction to its free passage, the body of a child 
was cut up, and thrown down into the vile receptacle for the 
perishing remains of humanity in separate ixirceh, wrapped up in 
the torn shroud or some old rags of linen : however, so long as we 
continue our detestable system of intra-mural interments in our 
own metropolis, and have fetid church-yards in its most crowded 
haunts (so frequently desecrated when fresh candidates for admis- 
sion are brought to the reeking soil), we should be indulgent on 
such matters. 

We have been to see the Amancaes, a famous place, and a 
famous flower, and a famous fiesta. The place is a valley some 
three or four miles from Lima, between wild and rugged mount- 
ains, looking down upon the city and upon the Pacific, and with 
the towering snow-capped Andes for its colossal back-ground. 
The flower is a golden-colored species of lily ; and the fiesta that 
of St. John's Day ; a few daj's previously to which, and sometimes 
on the very day, arises and blossoms brightly to adorn the chosen 
spot, this consecrated flower. It is popularly believed that, 
although up to the day before " St. John's Day," or even on the 
very eve of " St. John," not a single flower of the Yellow Aman- 
caes may be discernible, yet on the hallowed morning, the flo-wer 
will punctually appear to gild these previously sterile regions. 

The weather was very deligJitful, and the Andes gloriously 

visible in all their majesty, the day that Mrs. A was kind 

enough to take us there in her carriage. Mrs. W and her 

sister also went. Madame F was with them in their hand- 
some equipage, which Mr. W drove himself, and a small cav- 
alcade of gentlemen joined in the excursion. 



THE VALLEY OF AMANCAES. 403 

The feast being on the 24th of June, is fast approaching now, 
but we shall perhaps be gone before it arrives. The scene is 
described as being very singular, and characteristic of the manners 
and customs of the people : thousands pour along the Alameda de 
los Descalsos on the great day of jubilee. At the spot where the 
road enters into the mouth of the valley, two chapels are tem- 
porarily erected, covered with floating streamers and banners, and 
gay flaunting ribbons, and each is made for the time the habitation 
of a saint, arrayed in refulgent robes. This is for the purpose of 
collecting conti'ibutions from those whose hearts and hands are 
expected to be expanded and open under the influence of the joy- 
ous time, when the tide of excitement and exhilaration is flowing 
high, and all is glad emotion and anticipation. 

The pedestrians and equestrians, and those who are rolling in 
their gay carriages to the selected spot, are eagerly surrounded by 
noisy groups of men, women and children, thrusting little plates 
toward them, and indefatigably importuning them for money. 
The celebrated valley of Amancaes, gradually narrowing between 
the mountainous walls, which are seen abutting irregularly upon 
it, terminates almost in a point in the upper part. At this ex- 
tremity, a mile distant or thereabouts, numerous clusters of booths 
are placed (all decorated with flags and emblematical devices), 
and these are but too abundantly supplied with the native brandy, 
and chicha and italia. The lily grows in profusion among the 
neighboring hills, as well as in the valley ; and eager groups of 
people set out through the day on exploring parties and come back 
laden with the golden-colored spoils of their adventures. 

If none of the yellow lilies are actually growing on the ground^ 
still it is half covered with bunches and garlands of them, brought 
from any place where it has happened to spring up ; and the 
flower-hunters are to be seen profusely adorned with the glistening 
blossoms, while the prancing steeds of many of them are also sim- 
ilarly decorated, and look like moving bowers, their superb capari- 
sons being overlaid with these blooming, glowing gems. The 
scene must be altogether a very striking one : hundreds of splendid 
equipages are seen in all directions, filled with the fairest flowers 
of Lima — who are not by any means yellow lilies ; but on whose 
dark and richly-braided locks the golden flowers show to great 
reciprocal advantage. 

The servants who attend these brilliant carriages are often 
clothed in very handsome liveries, covered with gold and silver 
lace, which might a little 'recall remembrances of the Queen's 



401 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

drawing-room days in London, and the state liveries that then 
make their appearances in the thronged streets ; but the Lima 
horsemen's saddles and bridles, enriched with real, and beantifuUy 
wrought silver, attract more a stranger's unaccustomed eye. 

Tapadas are said to be generally very numerous on these occa- 
sions, their brilliant rainbowed scarfs, fluttering and gleaming in 
studied negligence, and the one-gun battery of the single exposed 
eye, doing great execution. A wild national dance is usually per- 
ibrmed here, and a wilderness of guitars is continually tinlding, 
and sounding cheerily and sweetly. 

Hark I f^uddenly sounds the vesper bell ; like bounding silver balls 
from silver cannon, with thrilling awlid power, come the mighty 
tones from the peerless bell of the Lima Cathedral. The people 
stream back through the willow-skirted walks and road of the 
Alameda de los Descalsos, on either side of which lights are gayly 
sparkling through the windows of the houses which look upon it — 
but the Feast of the Amancaes is over. Tlie preparations lor the cel- 
ebratioti of this festival were perceptible on the day we drove there. 
We remained for some time entranced with the extreme beauty 
of the extensive view. I had not before seen Lima in its fullest 
splendor. The day was brilliantly line, and it looked like an en- 
chanted city dominating the ocean, and with a host of white-crest- 
ed tributary mountains standing behind its throne. What a noble 
sight it was : it almost aj)peared to be a city all of temples and 
sacred edifices. 80 innumerable seemed its domes and steeples, 
pinnacles, and spires, one could hardly believe such things go on 
within its walls as bull-baits and cock-lights. 

Then how glorious looked the blue, calm, unbounded Pacific at 
its feet I so still, as if it lelt the hushing inlluence of these hallow- 
ed temples : its smooth, shining surface looked like the vast lloor 
of a colossal cathedral, whose towers were the giant Andes, and 
whose roof the purjjle heavens of the South. Even charming little 

Genrnia, Mrs. A 's sweet little girl, seemed impressed with 

the awful beauty of the scene, and her lovely infantine countenance 
looked grave and thoughtful. 

With many a last admiring look at the sublime scene — on one 
side at the high-soaring peaks of the gigantic Cordillera, and on 
the other at the almost innumerable towers and turrets and ter- 
races, and spires and steeples, and eu])olas and convents of the 
city, partly embosomed in romantic and beautiful gardens and in 
xunbrageous sylvan groves, and at the ocean of oceans, the wide- 
spreading racilic that with 



CROWDED STEETS. 405 



" Soft swellinfT waves, 
A ihonsand bright islands eternally lavc« — " 

with many a Ibeling of" regret we left that lovely valley of the 
Arnaiicacs, lovely not in its own self, without the flowery enrobing 
of its famous golden lily, but lor the consummate beauty oi" the 
views it presents on all sides ; and we drove again through the wil- 
lowy avenues of" the Alameda de los Descalsos, after passing many 
flourishing groves, and fields, and plantations of the busy suburbs. 
Tlie streets looked very gay and animated as we drove back to 
the French Hotel. We met hosts of ladies taking the air in their 
carriages ; others were sitting in those broad piaz/.as, whicli have 
such a pretty efiect with their (Jriental-looking jalousies ; and 
crowds of pedestrians — militars, civicos, and .saya-y-mantos were 
thronging the troLloin. Undisturbed by the multitudea, some of 
the gallianzos were comfortably perched along the sides of the riv- 
ulets that flow through the streets of Lima. These birds are the 
sopilotes of Peru, and they fly about the town unmolested, nay, 
encouraged, perfectly tame and at home every where. 

The running streams I have mentioned are conveyed by con- 
duits from the river llimac, and flow not only through all the 
main arteries and chief thoroughfares of the city, but also through 
nearly all the lesser streets. They must contribute very consider- 
ably to the healthfulness and cleanliness of the town. As you 
drive along the " calles," every niciie and nook, and corner and 
crevice, seem to be occupied by some petty trader, busily disposing 
of his and her small wares. 

Before the buU-fights take place, it is the fashion here, on the 
day previous to the sport, to suspend immense and conspicuous 
signs containing })rogrammes of the spectacle, at the entrance of 
the portales, or arcades ; these flourished advertisements are gene- 
rally painted on linen or muslin, stretched over frames of light 
wood ; and sometimes the approaching cock-fight is announced by 
])ictured placards of equally jtortentous appearance and dimensions. 
Jioys also are sent round with printed and illustrated hand-bills, 
and cards of the coming sj)oi-t ; and it is liequeutly pompously an- 
nounced that the judge will be the chief-intendant of the pohce. 
The watchmen recite a long history here in crying the hour — thus 
it runs : " Ave Maria Santissima, las doce (or whatever hour it 
may be) han dado : Vira Peru, y Sereno." 

A few evenings ago at Mrs. A 's, the conversation happened 

to turn upon the debate in our Parliament on the bill for legaliz- 
ing marriages bctwceu brothers and sisters- in-law. A I'eruvian 



406 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

gentleman who was there asked, apparently in much astonish- 
ment, if" that was forbidden in England : he was told it was. 
" Hombre 1" he exclaimed, " es posible 1" and proceeded to tell us 
a friend of his had married three sisters in succession. They must 
have procured dispensations from the Pope, of course. 

There have been concerts lately given here by a French lady, 
who has been starring it in India and China, I believe ! The place 
where the concerts are given is so near our hotel that we can hear 
a little of the strains of the songstress and her assistants, without 
moving from our chairs : they have failed here, I am told. The 
opera season has not yet begun in Lima. They have frequently 
a very good company, I believe, and the " palcos" are thronged 
with ladies superbly attired, and sometimes glittering with a per- 
fect armor and panoply of jewels, if report speaks truth. 

I sent doM'n some days ago to our fruitseller, under the great 
gateway, for some of those frozen apples we saw at Callao. She 
sent up a number of apples, that to outward appearance were pre- 
cisely the same ; but on cutting them in two, we found they had 
eitVier thawed, or had never been frozen at all I We have been 
told since, that while only one species of apple ever presents this 
appearance, yet you can never be sure that these will do so till 
you have opened them : it perhaps depends on the different stages 
of ripeness in the fruit. The vegetables and fruit here are mostly 
excellent ; the aguacates are exquisite ; we have them constantly 
at breakfast : they seem to hold a place between a vegetable and 
a fruit. Then we have pine-apples, melons, oi-anges, cherimoyas, 
grenadillas, pears, and hundreds of other delicious fruits. (Near- 
ly all the tropical fruits however, except aguacates, I confess 
with deep penitence, I think detestable — too rich usually for hot 
countries.) 

Among the vegetables, are cabbages, yuccas, potatoes (sweet ; 
and Irish, as they call our common potato), tomatoes, pumpkins, 
radishes, beans, and peas, and numerous others. The cherimoya 
is a very great favorite here, and I believe I am in a minority of 
one in not liking it : it is called the queen of fruits. In size and 
shape it bears outwardly some resemblance to a very large pear ; 
the rind is rather rugged, and of a color between brown and green. 
It is- supposed that this queenly fruit is pre-eminently excellent at 
Lima : it is commonly eaten with a spoon ; the rich pulp is white 
and saccharine, and not unlike an aromatic and creamy custard. 
The more I tried to like them the more I abominated them — I 
can't exactly say why. 



WASHING PLATES. 407 



The cherimoya is the " Doctor Fell" of fruits for me. Perhaps 
one reason may be, it has so much pretension about it, that if you 
are disposed not to approve, your dislike becomes hatred. The 
grenadilla is better, selon moi, and more refreshing ; the inside is 
like a large heap of the ripest interiors of gooseberries. They have 
raisins brought here from Pisco, as weD as " italia," which raisins 
are excellent, by the way. 

Italia is not like the common drink, called "pisco." The italia 
derives its name from the circumstance of its being made from an 
exquisite grape imported originally from Italy, and extremely im- 
proved by the climate of the new country, or probably by some 
difierence in the cultivation. 

The present President of Peru is a Cholo. He was reproached 
at the time of his election with so being : he is, by all accounts, a 
firm, strong-minded man, not at all disposed to yield to popular 
clamor, and brave as a lion. During one of the Pronunciamientos 
here, he made his appearance in the public square, exposing him- 
self with the utmost confidence to the infuriated people, something 
a la Empereur Nicholas, and he so charmed and awed them by 
his gallant and dauntless bearing, that not a finger was lifted 
against him. 

We dined a few days ago with Mr. and Mrs. P . They 

have a very pretty and good-sized house in the Calle de Guadaloupe, 
an immense distance from our hotel ; but our obliging host sent for 
a carriage (a hired one) for us, and we gladly mounted this lofty 
vehicle, which was gayly decorated with yellow silk lining in the 
interior, and proceeded at a most funereal pace to the abode of our 
friend. Whether our driver had a particular fancy for crossing 
and recrossing the little rivulets in the middle of the streets or 
whether this carriage was in itself rough, I knew not precisely, 
but there was certainly a great deal of jolting and jarring — per- 
haps the driver thought a little exercise before dinner was good 
for our healths. 

Some of the humbler orders of Lima Sefioras have a curious 
little unsophisticated custom of their own, which is decidedly 
original : it is washing the plates, and glasses, and dishes from 
their dinner-tables in the gutters of the streets. Now, although 
the waters of the Rimac are as clear as crystal when dashing over 
their pebbly bed, they are doomed to experience in their peregri- 
nations through the Lima calles the truth of the proverb that says, 
" Evil communications corrupt good manners ;" and these con- 
taminated currents most abundantly testify to this fact. I should 



408 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

therefore think the flavor of the " caldo," or of then- favorite fiery 
red-pepper sauce itself, can not be much improved by their contact 
with these gutter-washed platters. 

It is quite afi^ecting to hear the ladies in Lima (T mean in gen- 
eral our own country-women) lamenting over the difficulty of 
keeping any maid-servants here now, as they all go to California, 
the male emigrants being anxious to provide themselves with emi- 
grantesses : in short, hard-working wives, to cook, and wash, and 
take care of their homes. Some of the ladies pathetically dilated 
on their misfortunes, and one told me she had taken care to en- 
gage a most undeniable Gorgon, and she expatiated on the poor 
woman's ugliness, as an admirer might do on the charms of his 
fair one : 

" So exquisitely and deliciously hideous she was I such blubber 
lips I such goggle, boiled-mackerel eyes I such a squat nose, with 
such wide, horrible nostrils" (something like the prompter's box 
at the opera, by her description) ! " and such a villainous complex- 
ion, and old as the Andes nearly I" And this chosen and selected 
star and wonder disappeared sooner than the rest. 

A handsome young carpenter persuaded the goggle-eyed dame 
to visit El Dorado as his spouse ; and the astonishment and indig- 
nation of the bereaved lady knew no bounds. It seems that the 
emigrants do not care quite so much for looking at pretty faces, in 
their new distant homes, as having hard-working, industrious, 
managing wives ; good housewives, who will cook and wash, and 
drudge, and keep their houses tidy and comfortable. 

If the lady had tried to find a beauty instead, she would perhaps 
have acted more wisely, for the belle would have been far more 
difficile, to begin with ; and would have looked with horror at the 
prospects of the hardships and drudgery which the wives of miners 
and adventurers in California have constantly to undergo. It 
was a mistake, decidedly. I dare say, too, that goggle-eyed Gorgon 
thought more of her appearance, and was more conceited than a 
beauty would have been ; it is so often the case. 

Mrs. S , whom we went to see a little while ago, has given 

us some charming old " huacos," which are warranted to be really 
from the sepulchres of the ancient Sun-worshipers. One of them 
has strange marks and hieroglyphics on it, and a curious monkey- 
like little monster on the handle. She also kindly gave me some 
of the pieces of cloth found in those old tombs, remnants belonging 
to the shrouds or dresses in which the mummies were found 
wrapped. 



CURIOSITIES. 409 



The ancient places of interment were generally vaults, built' of 
adobes. With the bodies are frequently found gold ornaments, 
and other treasures : the wrappings and draperies of the mummies 
are found occasionally most splendidly dyed and embroidered, and 
often exhibit considerable artistical taste and manufacturing skill. 
There are belts, with balls and tassels, mats, sacks, and other 
articles, usually scattered about the vaults in great abundance. 

I have read a description of one fragment that appears to be an 
allegorical design. It was the representation of a beautiful butter- 
fly, with its rich wings outstretched, as if flying, or about to fly. 
The colors were light red, and azure, and white, and a glowing, 
golden brown, and apparently carefully imitated from nature. 
This butterfly was displayed on a deep ground of crimson. Sure- 
ly it was meant to represent the enfranchised soul, in the manner 
of the classical ancients. 

It is said there are some small bags found in numbers in the 
vaults, that are made of cotton, hair, or wool. Sometimes they 
arc fringed, and otherwise decorated ; they are generally sewn up, 
and inclose often tufts of hair, dark-colored pebbles, and little 
bunches of parti-colored feathers. The fragment of cloth Mrs. 
S so oblingly gave me, was quite recently taken from a mum- 
my ; the colors are still clear ; they are brown, figured over with red ; 
the figures are not very unlike some of those hieroglyphics on the 
earthern vessels I have mentioned. The material is of immense 
thickness, almost equal to that of a carpet ; it is in excellent pres- 
ervation. There is a curious war-sling, given to me by the same 
kind friend, which is still in use among the wild Indians in the 
interior of Peru ; it is very strongly and neatly made. 

Mrs. S has an exceedingly handsome house ; a two-storied 

one, with immense galleries, and covered balconies. These balco- 
nies are magnificent ; they are furnished and carpeted. They 
afford such an excellent view, that during " dias de fiesta," they 
are crowded by the friends and acquaintances of the amiable mis- 
tress of the mansion. I have received a kind invitation to come 
here to witness some of the great religious processions which will 
shortly take place, and shall certainly avail myself of it, if 1 am 
still in the Peruvian capital. In this earthquaking city of Lima 
tliis is almost the only two-storied house whose inhabitants I know. 
There are a profusion of interesting curiosities in the large and 
lofty rooms here : huacos of all kinds and shapes, formed into 
various sorts of monstrosities, some very elaborately finished : and 
there are quantities of beautiful inlaid cabinets — such an "em- 



410 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

barras clcs richesses" in that line, indeed, that the children have 
some magnificent ones, in which to put their toys and books. 

Others are used for stores of Berlin-wool and canvas (Mrs. S 's 

sister works very beautifully) ; and, in short, costly and exquisite 
as they are, they are obliged to make themselves generally useful 
here. 

I think I have not mentioned that the room in which Francisco 
Pizarro was assassinated is still shown at Lima, and the balcony 
from whence the vmpitying, infuriated Almagros afterward threw 
his body ; but I doubt its being the true one. 

"L'Algerie" is shortly to leave Callao ; for Payta first, and 
then probably for the Sandwich Islands. We went to take leave 
of Madame Y yesterday. She and Monsieur F are stay- 
ing at the French Minister's. Madame F seems to look Ibr- 

ward with great pleasure to her extended tour and voyage round 
the world, and not to regret Paris in the least. She expects to be 
much interested in China : it is altogether a very spirited under- 
taking for this young and beautiful lady. 

We also went to see Mrs. B . Her house is remarkably 

pretty, Avith a garden like a vision of enchantment. Such flowers I 
among others, that lovely " variable," the chameleon of flowers, 
which changes its color three times a day. It is, I believe, pure 
white in the morning, a soft rose-color in the afternoon, and in the 
evening a deep glowing crimson. The Peruvians somewhat im- 
pertinently call it the " Seiiorita." 

My bird-fancying companion went with Mrs. B 's little 

adopted daughter to see two splendid feathered monsters. By her 
description, I think they must be huacamayas, a rare and huge 
species of parrot. She says they were of enormous size, and of the 
most dazzling colors conceivable, but very savage indeed. They 
were formerly kept in the garden ; but the distracting noise they 
made caused them to be banished to a more distant place of abode. 

The garden here is in the patio, and the delicious odors with 
which it floods the drawing-rooms are charming. Still the luxuri- 
ance of Lima gardens can not strictly be compared with that of 
those of the Havana. I must give a list of the plants and flowers 
in one small garden there belonging to a villa in the suburbs. 
First and foremost, the villa itself (which was more like a kiosk 
at Constantinople than a house, all balconies and galleries) was 
smothered in the most lavish growth of creepers and climbing 
plants ; and it was most magnificently over-shadowed by a princely 
bamboo, whose huge giant branches rose to a great height above 



Ei\ERVATING CLIMATE. 411 

it to fall in mighty mammoth plumes, such as might have sur- 
mounted the head of a Titanic birthday beauty, two miles high, 
— in the land of giants and ogres. It was also like a vast high- 
soaring fountain of transparent emerald, tossing skyward its fairy 
columns, and falling in graceful cascades of feathery, far-spreading, 
and foamy lightness. 

The garden was certainly too crowded with its wild botanical 
treasures ; yet entangled and heaped together as they were in the 
richest profusion, they all appeared in the most flourishing condition, 
and those that could find no space below for their exuberant glories 
and fanciful vagaries shot up above, and hung their enchanted 
bowers, and spread their mosaiced and rainbowed parterres, in the 
air, at least so they seemed to do. There were jessamines, hibis- 
cus (called here "mar pacifico"), mignonnette trees, pomegranates, 
floripondias, verbenas, dahlias, "conchitas azules," marivillas of 
three colors, orange trees, bananas, papayos (papaws), silk sugar- 
cane (a particular kind of sugar-cane), guanabana, aloes, tobacco 
plant, espuelas, Peregrina trees, madamas ; quantities of different 
kinds of roses. Alamo trees, diamela, Almendras (almond trees), 
Almizcle (musk). Tuna (a peculiar sort of cactus), fig-trees, Jupite 
or astronomia, grape-vines, azucenas (white lilies), Itamo real 
(tree), Albahaca fina (a kind of sweet basil), yerba Luisa, romero 
(rosemary), malva real, caha de azucar, violets, mejorana, aguin- 
aldos blancos, cundiamor, Indio trepador, the fine flor del zapota, 
claveles rosedans, murallas (trees), the cana brava (bamboo), and 
othei's whose names 1 could not ascertain. Remember, this is 
quite a common-place and very little garden, with hardly any care 
whatever bestowed upon it. 

Delightful as this cool and rainless climate of Lima is, there must, 
I think, be something peculiarly enervating about it. Notwith- 
standing the untropical freshness of the air, Europeans complain 
that they can not take exercise here as in their own countries ; 
and what is strange, the eyes seem often afiected with weakness. 
The complete absence of sun and glare in general ought, one 
would imagine, to be favorable to the visual organs. I can not 
say that we find walking fatigues us more here than at other 
places, but we constantly hear complaints to that effect. To be 
sure, we have been here but a short time as yet. 

I h'Bard the other day two English ladies, who had been out 
shopping together the previous day, inquiring after their mutual 
healths, and one said : " I really felt as if I should die when I 
arrived at home ; I lay down on the sofa, and could not move 



412 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

liand nor foot for hours." And the other, " I felt quite ill after the 
i'atigue of going to those shops. I have not recovered it. I have 
felt so tired and wearied out ever since." From curiosity, I made 
inquiries as to the amount of exertion they had undergone, and 
found it was what would be considered a mere nothing in London. 
We are going to see some of the churches. The magnificent 
church and convent of San Francisco I fear we shall not be allow- 
ed to enter. 



CHAPTER LI 

About to leave Lima — The XI!athedral — Fragile but enduring Buildings in 
Lima — The Reason why they are the latter — The Tower of San Domingo 
— The Chorister of the Cathedral — The Shrine of Santa Rosa — The Inqui- 
sition at Lima — The Cemetery — Cemeteries in the United States — Lima 
Mode of Sepulture — Remains of the Temple of the Sun — Peruvian Poli- 
tics — Disheartening News from California — Verses on Happiness — Earth- 
quakes at Lima — The Shoes of the Ladies. 

We are still at Lima ; but an American steamer has lately 
arrived, and if it is possible to manage it comfortably, I think of 
taking a passage in her to Panama, as the sooner we cross the 
Isthmus on our way to Jamaica now (before the roads are utterly 
turned to swamps and morasses) the better. The rainy season has 
doubtless set in, but in the beginning it is comparatively easy to 
eflect the transit. 

This American vessel is a river steamer. She has come here 
from New York, through the straits of Magellan, after losing al- 
most her whole crew at Rio Janeiro of yellow fever : fifteen men 
belonging to the steamer died there, and the captain is still ill 
from the effects of the severe attack he had of that dreadful dis- 
order. In some instances, it is stated, merchant vessels were left 
without a single man on board. It began among the shipping, 
and for a long time did not make its appearance on shore ; but at 
length it burst ibrth there also, and spread with awftil violence. 

Mr. Yates has most obligingly volunteered to arrange about our 
passage to Panama, if the accommodations on board the " New 
World" are sufficiently comfortable. I have consulted an eminent 
English Medical gentleman here as to there being any danger of 
infection on board the steamer, and he positively assures me there 
is not the smallest cause for any apprehension. 

Mr. Yates escorted us to sec the cathedral and two other fine 



FRAGILE BUILDINGS. 413 

churches this morning, as well as the building where the Congress 
assembles. This is not very imposing, but we could not gain ad- 
mittance to the finest part. A ragged soldier piloted us about : 
he had lost a limb in one of the revolutionary battles here. As 
he led us along a handsome hall, 1 saw at the extreme end, where 
immense doors opened on a kind of patio, what I thought was a 
beautiful garden, and the distant hills and mountains behind it. 

This was a spirited, well-executed fresco, on a high wall oppo- 
site, so arranged as to fill up the whole space in front of the opened 
doors : when seen from the hall it has the appearance of being a 
natural landscape and garden. The court-yards were like open-air 
panoramas. The people seem to have a perfect passion for fresco- 
paintings and arabesques. 

If the truth is to be told, Lima itself, the regal and the aspiring, 
is very near being one huge colossal opera-scene. A great number 
of the princely-looking edifices that rear their haughty fronts as if 
they would defy the terrible temblor itself, are only built of stones 
and bricks (or often of gigantic adobes) up to the height of the bel- 
fries ; above this all is lath and plaster, paste-board and rushes, 
reeds and stucco ; a vast accumulation of architecturally arranged 
whips, and wicker work, and whim-whams, and walking-sticks ; 
but the effect is as splendid as if all was built of granite and ada- 
mant. Who would dream, when looking at this city from the 
Amancaes, that these glorious domes and steeples, so thickly 
crowding together that one might almost think the inhabitants of 
Lima all dwelt in churches, or in convents at least, and that no sec- 
ular habitation intervened — who would dream, I say, that these 
apparently massive structures were closely akin to a child's house 
of cards, or the back-ground scenes of a ballet in London or 
Paris? But Lima is justified in placing her faith on a reed, and 
in thinking stability, or rather solidity, of construction not literally 
worth a rush here. 

These light and fragile fabrics are the only edifices of any ele- 
vation that can withstand the shocks of the devastating earth- 
quake. The reader will remember, I dare say, the account of the 
earthquake in New Zealand, when all the strongly-built stone 
houses suffered and sank, and became piles of ruins, and those with 
slender wooden walls stood uninjured. No lofty structure could 
survive the assaults of frequent earthquakes, except those of such 
*' leather and prunella," papei'y composition : iliey bend and quiver 
like a storm-shaken pine of the forest, but regain and recover their 
perpendicular position unimpaired. 



414 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

There is one very high tower, that of San Domingo, where 
they say the ringing of the bells causes an extreme vibration, hke 
that in the leaning tower of Pisa, yet it is considered safe. As to 
the private dwelling houses, they are generally, of course, of the 
same materials ; but as rain is unknown here, and wind does not 
visit the " face" of the fair city ever " too roughly," you might 
live in a tent of silken tafietta, if so minded, without injury from 
the elements. 

The cathedral has two aisles inside, supported by a vast num- 
ber of pillars. There is in the interior some very beautifully carv- 
ed wood ; but while we wore admiring this, a ragged-looking boy, 
who had been previously chattering with some urchins of comrades, 
rushed toward us, gesticulating and vociferating amazingly, and 
said on no account could the ladies be pei'raitted to remain. Cap- 
tain W , who had joined our party, with Mr. Yates, tried to 

pacify him, and persuade him to allow us to stay. 

Suddenly he darted away, and with remarkable rapidity ap- 
peared before us again in a change of costume, that had been 
effected with such celerity, that we should have been disposed to 
think it was a twin brother of our youthful persecutor, had not our 
eyes followed his agile movements. He was now a chorister in 
flowing robes, and with much dignity of deportment he ordered us 
away : it was " quite impossible that ladies should come there ;" 
but this our presence practically contradicted, so we replied not. 
He frowned and fulmined at us ; probably threatened us with the 
vengeance of the Pope and the whole College of Cardinals, and 
sweet Santa Rosa of Lima if we did not depart. 

His rage and eagerness prevented his speaking very clearly, and 
we were really much taken up in looking at the beautiful wood 
carvings ; but we soon told him we would go, and his countenance 
lighted up a little. He behaved civilly enough when he saw us 
departing, merely looking as if he would like particularly to have 
the exterminating of us quietly, without any torturing whatsoever. 

We had hoped to have avoided any unpleasant rencontre of this 
kind ; for hearing they were very particular about the head-dress 
here, we had doffed our already-excommunicated bonnets, and put 
a " manto" of the moment on our heads, formed of black scarfs; 
but this young gentleman quickly discovered we were heretics, and 
treated us accordingly. The shrine of the patroness of Lima, 
Saint Rosa, was brilliantly decorated. In the fine Murillo at 
Belvoir Castle, this saint appears. The cathedral formerly was 
enriched by vast quantities of solid silver, which have gradually 



THE INQUISITION. 415 



melted away, under the unscrupulous attacks of the many differ- 
ent revolutionists and pseudo-regenerators of this fine land. 

We afterward went to see the ancient Inquisition : it is now 
used chiefly as a prison for the meanest criminals. In a large 
hall we saw a truly beautiful carved ceiling ; it was perfectly ex- 
quisite, but is quite lost where it is. We were told by a Peruvian 
gentleman there, that it has long been contemplated to remove it 
to some more conspicuous and suitable situation. We looked into 
one of the old dungeons of the Inquisition. Horrible ! When 
the accused was brought from his cell, he did not enter the hall of 
judgment, or whatever this great gloomy chamber was called, but 
was led up to a small grated opening in the wall, to hear the sen- 
tence. 

We were shown the place "where an immense crucifix had been 
formerly attached to the wall at the upper end of ihe room, above 
the place where sat the solemn arbiters of life and death. Behind 
tliis figure was arranged machinery, by which it was made to nod 
and shake the head, when appealed to, before the irrevocable 
decision was pronounced. The Peruvian gentleman enlarged upon 
the horrors of those olden days in a strain of glowing indignation, 
till that gloomy old hall of the Inquisition resounded with his 
eager eloquence. 

Mr. Yates, who had most obligingly undertaken to pay a visit 
to the American steamer, and let us know whether she had suffi- 
cient accommodation, has brought us word that the captain will 
make all necessary arrangements, and that he fully intends to stop 
at Panama on his way to San Francisco. He says the vessel is 
beautifully clean, and that we shall have it almost all to ourselves, 
as there are only three passengers in her now for California. When 
she gets to Panama, she will probably find crowds anxious to take 
their passage in her. 

I have just returned from a charming drive with our kind friend 

Mrs. A , after going to take leave of Mrs. S and her 

sister, and the pretty children, with their flowing English-looking 
golden ringlets. We drove to the cemetery, a little distance from 
Lima : we found the great gates locked, and could only look 
through them. After seeing the most magnificent and beautiful 
cemeteries in the world — those of the United States — all others 
look dreary and poor in comparison. Even those glittering, much- 
adorned church-yards, which I remember admiring once in Ba- 
varia, M'ould, from their petty size, look inferior indeed. 

Then in the United States they generally choose a natural 



416 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

situation, of the greatest beauty ; and Nature and Art strive 
together to perform, as it were, everlastingly the noblest funeral 
obsequies around the tombs of the departed. Statues of angels 
and weeping mourners stand by the graves among flowers and 
trees ; the air thrills with pei^etual hymns of singing birds ; silent 
sermons are preached from changing foliage and varying blooms. 
All is touching, and beautiful, and hallowed, in that place, which 
the imaginative Germans so poetically call " God's Acre." And 
so it should be. 

The Old Romans were the wisest of mankind, it is my humble 
opinion, in their way of disposing finally of their dead ; and next 
to them are the Young Americans ! Death is not made unneces- 
sarily and improperly gloomy and repulsive. The pale angel is 
still an angel, and regarded as the one who, in opening the gates 
of the grave, throws wide the portals of immortality. 

It is the custom in Lima for a large clumsy hearse, drawn by 
mules, and driven by a postillion, to go round in the morning, and 
collect the bodies of those who have died in the preceding night. 
The hearse, called the car of the Pantheon, brings them to the 
cathedral, to receive the latest offices of the Church. Sometimes 
the corpses are brought in coffins, and sometimes not. When the 
latter is the case, a public receptacle is used during the perform- 
ance of the funeral ceremony, which is made to fit all comers. 

On returning from the cemetery, which is inclosed by high adobe 
walls, we found it quite cold, and were glad to put on additional 
cloaks. Our hands were extremely chilled. There must be some 
great difierence in the climate or the construction of the houses in 
Mexico and Lima. We have never found it cold in the houses 
here (without fires, of course), while in Mexico — in the mornings 
particularly — we often found it so. In Mexico, on the contrary, 
I never found it cold out of doors ; whereas here, several times 
we have found it imperatively necessary to put on warm, thick 
shawls on going out. 

I am sorry to leave Lima before the religious jTeto take place, 
for the city, from its many peculiarities, must present a very strik- 
ing scene on those occasions. From all its nearly innumerable 
churches and convents are floating then myriads of consecrated 
banners, and from the houses, too, tens of thousands of " banderas" 
are streaming with their gaudy hues on the flushed air. 

The insides of the churches are adorned with a forest of artificial 
flowers, and miles of festooning ribbons, and are besides decorated 
with other ornaments, in almost endless profusion. Processions go 



THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN. 417 

tlirougli the streets, and music awalcens the echoes, while incense 
from censers of silver thickly ascends in odoriferous clouds, and a 
hundred splendid pageants appear on all sides. 

Just now, serious reflections on such subjects I will not enter 
into. The spectacle itself, however much there is to be deplored 
in such exhibitions, must be fine, amid all the picturesque adjuncts 
of the capital of Peru, where the old Sun-worehipers whilom knelt 
in rude idolatry. 

Speaking of them, I should have very much liked to visit the 
remains of the ancient Temple of the Sun, about twenty miles 
iiom this city. This old edifice is said to have been about three 
hundred and thirty feet high ; some writers state that it was at 
least six hundred feet above the level of the sea, raised on an 
elevation which was in part artificial. The ruins are scattered 
over three grand terraces, rising in regular gradations one over the 
other. The remains of an ancient and stately town lie moulder- 
ing around the fallen temple of Pachacamac, the life-bestowing deity. 

The scenery around is reported to be very splendid ; the gigantic 
mountain-views contrasting strikingly with the smiling groves of 
orange, and the fruitful gardens and fields of the lovely valley of 
Lurin — quiet hamlets, with their painted churches and soaring 
steeples ; the Pacific tossing its foam in sparkling garlands on the 
shore, and fading away in the blue horizon ; the wild- whirling 
clouds on the distant lofty peaks ; the haciendas hidden in thickets 
of fruit trees ; old earthquake-ruined bridges, and Indian chacras, 
dotted here and there. 

Altogether, by all accounts, it must form a very interesting 
scene, and assuredly must be well worth going to see ; but we 
found various difficulties in the way ; and not thinking of going so 
soon, I put it off'; and that most arrant thief and vagabond, Pro- 
crastination, has robbed me of this. Is not that same Procrastina- 
tion the chief pavior of Pluto, where good intentions were used 
instead of stone or wood ? 

I will not enter into any Peruvian politics, my sole intention 
being to tell the reader what we actually see around us. It 
would only be the gossip of politics that I could give in these 
hastily written pages, and would neither amuse nor edify. I will, 
therefore, merely say, there seems a growing jealousy between civil- 
ians and the military. The South American armies, as far as I have 
seen, seem to be maintained generally not for the purpose so much 
of fighting the country's battles with foreign foes, as for settling end- 
less disputes among the belligerent factious at home. 



418 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Far be it from me to say that the sole movement here has been 
a " progressive retrogression ;" but I am disposed to think, in 
educational matters, and other things indispensable to successful 
self government, there has been displayed a remarkable supineness 
in high quarters; which "masterly inactivity," in those who 
desire to lead and autocratize over the people, renders the govern- 
ment, popularized though it is, more a military despotism than a 
constitutional democracy. 

Physical force, I believe, embodies pretty strongly the ruling 
idea in their vexed politics. If the citizen is jealous of the soldier, 
let him himself erect the school-house (which acts so great a part 
in the prosperity of the United States) in opposition to the bar- 
racks ; and in time, though we may have many a phase of various 
aspects to witness first, we shall see real improvement and positive 
progress here ; especially if moral training keep pace with intellect- 
ual — for the one without the other is a dangerous mistake. Chili, 
from what I hear on all sides, is the most flourishing of all these 
South American republics : the people are steady, industrious, en- 
terprising, and temperate ; and, it seems, moderately enlightened. 

There is an English book-club established here, and they have 
a number of interesting works sent out from England. I have 
just read one of them, Layard's "Nineveh." 1 have not yet 
mentioned that the steamer we are going in is a river steamer, the 
second that has been sent round Cape Horn. She is going to run 
on the Sacramento River, in Calii'ornia. 

I have lately heard my English friends here lamenting over 
some melancholy accounts that have come from that " Eureka" 
State. A young American gentleman, who apparently was ex- 
ceedingly popular here, has attempted to commit self-destruction, 
after a melancholy series of misfortunes. He had not very long 
ago lost a beloved wife, who was killed by a fall from her horse in 
California. He was slowly recovering from this dreadful blow, 
which it is said he most profoundly felt (so deeply, indeed, that his 
reason, it was believed, was slightly unsettled by the shock), when 
by some unforeseen calamity — the great fire, I believe — his newly- 
made fortune was entirely shattered, and he fell at once from 
affluence into destitution. He attempted to shoot himself, but 
blew off^ nearly half his face, and yet remained alive. 

The story is a very sad one ; but many almost equally heart- 
rendering occurrences, it is to be feared, have taken place in the 
golden land since the great emigration commenced. One man 
Avent mad from sudden succes.?, and killed himself in a paroxysm 



EARTHQUAKES. 419 



of delirium. In short. I have heard so many mournful histories 
with regard to successful and unsuccessful speculators, that I am 
reminded of some verses of my own, in a poem written long ago. 
Here is some of it : 



Oh, Happiness ! where is thy home ? 

Say, where dost tliou linsrer and dwell? 
Stars and seraphs sing — "i/n's side the tomb"- 

Dear, impossible Blessing, farewell ! 



Hence no more — oh, no more — never more. 
Come in shadows or seeming near me; 

I might dream thou wert clasped to the core. 
And but wake to find grief, and not thee ! 



Did I think I could seize thee when borne 
On the whirlwinds of passion and pride, 

All my spirit on fire with its scorn — 
All my heart like a storm-troubled tide? 



Say oh ! Happiness, where is thy sphere? 

Where, where dost thou linger and dwell? 
All still seek thee afar and anear. 

But, impossible Blessing — farewell ! 

After seeing the fragility of the materials used here generally in 
the construction of buildings, I am no longer surprised at \vhat the 
residents tell me ; namely, that if a heavy pattering shower of 
rain came down, Lima might melt away like a huge heap of 
Brobdignagian bonbons, or like a confectionary-metropolis — a vast 
collection of mammoth barley-sugar temples — or else it might be 
swept away altogether into the Pacific. But in this earthquaking 
land, it is imperatively necessary it should be so. 

Here they pray continually to be protected from earthquakes ; 
the word "famine," in our Church Service, is left out, and "earth- 
quake" substituted. Compensation is Nature's favorite rule, and 
one she scarcely ever (if ever) infringes. 

The charming little child of Monsieur and Madame du C , 

has just paid us a visit. V was playing with some paroquets, 

which attracted her into the drawing-room, .for of course the bal- 
cony doors were wide open. Little Bertha is one of the most sen- 
sible children I ever met with : she gave an account of their pas- 



420 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



sage across the Isthmus, and her poor papa's unfortunate fall, in the 
most touching and pretty language, in a perfectly simple and art- 
less yet animated manner, and then reverted to her chere France, 
where she was so happy, and had so many playfellows and pleas- 
ures, and her " pauvrc papa" was quite well. Though the little 
darling seemed contented and happy enough at Lima ; and it 
Avould have been sad, indeed, if at live or six years of age she had 
begun to grieve for " days lang syne," for they seemed "lang sync" 
to her. 

But the Captain of the "New World" has sent us word he 
shall be ready to start in the evening. I have got to send back 
books that have been kindly lent to me from the English Book 

Club, to write a note of leave-taking and thanks to Mrs. B , 

who has sent us a beautiful plant, and to do all the innumerable 
necessary nothings people find 1o do before leaving a place ; and 
then farewell to beautiful, dilapidated Lima, mighty in fragility, 
and refulgent in decay ; the most splendid city that the Spaniards 
ever built in South America, and the capital of the richest of its 
countries — superb Peru ! 

Mariquita, our Peruvian female attendant, has just been to 
take leave of us, and her sister to boot, bringing with them one of 

the loveliest little dogs you can imagine. Mrs. B told me 

the other day, that in this neighborhood people are occasionally 
subject to a shortness of breathing, which is very distressing. It 
is something like asthma, but not exactly : keeping the chest warm 
is recommended by the faculty, and these little dogs, with their soft, 
satin-like fur, are used as living muils or cushions (as in England 
those silken breast-plates called comforters are used) ; and in 
almost all cases these animated canine cuirasses are ibund to be 
perfectly efficacious. 

Independently of their being employed in this remedial service, 
these tiny creatures are often seen nestling in the folds of their 
mistress's gowns, more like doves than dogs. They are wonder- 
fully small, and their wee lect emulate in delicacy those of their 
lair owners. 

One of l\\.Q fcmmes dc cliamhrc went the other day to order some 
walking shoes, and told me when she entered the shop, she fancied 
at first it must be a place for babies and children's shoes only, so 
rnarvelously small were those satin " zapatos," but they were found 
to be all ladies' shoes. The only thing that spoils their feet is, 
they wear their shoes too short even for their diminutive feet, 
which makes them look (as they are inclined to be the least f.oii'pqon 



VOYAGE FROM PERU TO PANAMA. ^121 

too broad for their length) a little — a very little — disproportionately 
short ; but in the most refined classes this defect alnaost entirely 
disappears. 

To return to the canine subject : I hear that at Chihuahua, in 
Mexico, is a breed of the most extraordinary little dogs imaginable, 
much smaller even than these, and yet excessively fierce. They 
make the best and most vigilant guards and watch-dogs possible, 
dwarfs though they are. 

With regard to educational establishments, I believe I have 
done Lima a Utile injustice. I have been informed lately there 
arc several. 



CHAPTER LII. 

The "Voyage from Peru to Panama — Farewell to Lima — Guanacos — The 
Rio Lady in the Omnibus — The Railroad begun — Arrival at Callao-^ 

Rodil's defense of Callao described — Polite Attention of Captain W 

— The ilarbor of Callao — The Beauty of the Pacilie — Handsome Appoint- 




I WRITE this chapter at Jamaica. Our return voyage from 
Peru to Panama was most successfully performed. 1 have for- 
merly mentioned how much we sufTercd on our first voyage, ther- 
mometrically speaking ; but we experienced scarcely any oppressive 
heat whatsoever on our way back. 

We left the city of the land of the Incas in that xmrcmantic 
conveyance called an omnibus ; for we feared we were late, and 
thought that we should save time by so doing. Mr. Yates was 
good enough to arrange all for us, and we found the omnibus just 
starting. The administrador recommended dispatch. We clam- 
bered in hastily, and — weak mortals — we thought, when we got 
in, it was full ; but another passenger appeared — an Indian woman, 
with a little chocolate-colored baby, who looked round with great 
sang-froid on the crammed vehicle, most philosophically indiflerent. 
These Indian infants seem the most stoical little dingy Dioo-eneses 
on earth. 

At last the omnibus overflowed. A few arms, and heads, and 
shoulders, and such insignificant portions of the human frame were 



422 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

squeezed out at the rows of open windows, and then, arre .' On 
we go, through the Morisco-Spanish streets of the noble old city, 
on, till we dash through the great gate. 

Magnificent Lima, farewell I Like so many Sister Annes, we 
can soon see nothing but clouds of dust. Would we could have 
seen flocks — not of sheep, but of the gentle llama, those singular 
animals which, if they are over-loaded or ill-used, shed tears, look 
up pathetically and half reproachfully, and then in despair, if not 
relieved or soothed, lie down and die. I am assured this is a fact ; 
but I will say no more of them, as they are so well known, nor of 
the vicunas and alpacas. 

By the way, the guanacos are by some supposed to be a smaller 
kind of the large animal, on which the Patagonians were said to 
have ridden, bearing a resemblance to the mule, and also to the 
stag or elk. They are not, I believe, used as beasts of draught or 
burden by the South Americans, though some authors state they 
are capable of drawing more weight than two horses. 

The first day Mrs. A landed in Peru, she was lucky enough 

to see a long string of the interesting llamas, but has not seen one 
in Lima since. 

For the dust, we could but just glimpse the noble trees of the 
great avenue leading from the town. A young Peruvian gentle- 
man in the carriage, whose poncho was lying like a lady's shawl 
carelessly on his arm, to save his casaca from the polvo, quick as 
thought dofied his sombrero, and popped his head through the 
poncho, without apparently discomposing a single hair. 

A lady seated opposite to me was very communicative. She 
told me she had only lately arrived from Rio Janeiro, and she re- 
gretted exceedingly the imperial magnificence and the court gay- 
eties of that capital. She was a thorough-going monarchist. It 
was delightful to see the cortege of the Emperor and Empress 
when they went out. At the opera their box looked so splendid ; 
the Imperial Court gave such life and brilliancy to every thing. 
Lima seemed so dull in comparison. The President indeed ! what 
was that ! Nothing at all ! " Oh que difierencia, que lastima, 
que disgracia," that there should be no great court here ! Rio 
was infinitely preferable, she thought, and every thing so very 
flourishing there. 

And now, thanks to an intermission of dust, we caught sight of 
the many-towered capital, leaning, in its haughty beauty, against 
the everlasting Andes. " Que maravilla I" " Ah I Lima was 
very well," but the fair Brazilian reverted to Rio. " Pero Pi,io I 



THE RAILROAD BEGUN. 423 

Eso es superior a todo elogio, hechicero ! admirable.^ " The cli- 
mate here, however, must be pleasanter by all accounts. " Pero 
esta V. Equivocado." — " It is charming at Rio, a little hot cer- 
tainly, but it is cooler in the evening ; and then there are such 
diamonds, and all seem so happy there." 

The omnibus stopped, and a Peruvian caballero, who was one 
of the passengers, soon saw a friend of his on horseback, near the 
door of the "fonda;" wishing to speak to him, he attempted to 
reach the " portazuela ;" but seeing this would incommode us, 
managed to get out of one of the front windows, really like a very 
graceful monkey, and climbed in again with equal agility. 

As we drove along, some splendidly dressed caballeros galloped 
past us with their magnificently caparisoned horses caracoling very 
prettily : but on thundered our great lumbering vehicle, " ciuda- 
do ! caballeros," for our ebony coachman has had a little tiny 
taste, it seems, of " pisco." But the beautiful horses were every 
now and then to be seen through the dust, dancing a pretty little 
ballet along the gently descending road. 

The railroad is already begun ! we caught a ghmpse of the 
works as we passed by. An unfortunate accident had just hap- 
pened, the day before we left, I think. A man was killed, it was 
said, and others injured : and some of the natives began to shake 
their heads, and said it was ominous, and the railroad constructed 
by heretics would not answer, and so on. Last year, I believe, the 
attempt was made ; but the superintendent, a young man of tal- 
ent, went mad from over-anxiety, and subsequently died here. 
There appears, however, no doubt now of its succeeding. 

We arrived at Callao in excellent time, and by Mrs. M 's 

kind invitation went straight to her house. We heard that the 
American steamer would not start for the present, and Captain 

W had obligingly left us a message to say, he^ould come 

at the right time to take us on board in his boat. 

I was anxious to take a poncho with me to England, and had 

not had time to get it at Lima that morning. Mrs. M sent 

for one from a Callao shop, which I bought. Mr. B , who 

amiably came to see us oft', on looking at my purchase, told me 
very likely it had been imported from England, where they make 
them now, to undersell the market here. So my poor poncho was 
partly disenchanted in my eyes — manufactured at Leeds instead 
of in the interior of Peru I but I don't quite believe it is the case. 
I think my poncho has a very Peruvian and anti-Leeds air ; so I 
shall try and console myself 



424 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

- - . _ 

Callao does not look to advantage after Lima, notwithstanding 

it boasts some very pretty mansions, like Mr. and Mrs. M 's, 

for example. It is said that in some of the by-streets there you 
will see English signs hung up, such as " The Lively Pig," &c. ; 
but Valparaiso is said to be still more Anglicized in its nomen- 
clature. 

I was sorry not to be able to go to see the old castle of Callao, 
which, under Rodil, during the War of Independence, stood a 
siege of two years. Rodil defended the fortress most gallantly and 
resolutely. The blockade was so strict, that the garrison was re- 
duced to severe extremities, horseflesh being sold lor a gold ounce 
per pound, and chickens for their weight in gold. In addition to 
this, he had treachery and insubordination to contend with con- 
stantly within the walls ; and he was compelled to maintain his 
legitimate authority as commander by many terrible examples of 
severity. 

Thus attacked, and hemmed in on all sides by land and by 
water, with treason close at hand, and war, hatred and rage with- 
out, a thousand hardships and privations increasing upon them 
day by day, and hopelessness casting slowly its heavy shadow over 
their outworn spirits, Rodil, with a few faithful adherents, " preux 
chevaliers, sans peur et sans reproche," still were true to their 
posts, and devoted to their duty, their king, and their country, till 
a frightful famine forced them to surrender. Here, where the 
Royalists made their last stand in the country, was the royal flag 
of Leon and of Castile furled for ever ; but Rodil has left a glo- 
rious name behind him, which even his enemies must respect. 

The round turrets of the dilapidated castle are flanked on each 
side by lengthened lines of fortifications, by curtains, and bastions, 
and batteries, and walls, and embrasures. Inclosed within pro- 
digiously thick and casemated walls, are extensive barracks (which 
at present are turned into useful warehouses for the peaceful cus- 
toms), magazines, &c. It is thought by some that a very insig- 
nificant army, numerically speaking, properly commanded, and 
well found in siege viateriel, might have taken the place in two 
weeks, or perhaps one, instead of two years. This fortress had, 
however, a proud reputation of yore in Peru. 

Shortly after Captain W arrived, we took leave of Mrs. 

M , and walked to the mole, where we found the boat in 

readiness to convey us to the American steamer. So, wishing 

Mr. B good-by, who had walked with us to the boat, we 

were handed in by Captain W , and soon found ourselves 



ON BOARD. 425 



alongside of the vessel. She reminded us of the Mississippi steam- 
ers in her appearance. When we arrived alongside we had only 
one little step to make into the steamer from the boat. 

The Captain had not yet come on board, and after looking at 
our cabins, which were most charmingly arranged and most com- 
fortable, and--which were, indeed, beautifully furnished, we paid a 
flying visit to the " Dsedalus," and admired the perfect and admira- 
ble order which was perceptible at every step — saw in the chief 
cabin two splendid engravings of Napoleon and the Duke of Wel- 
lington (the latter, uncle of Captain W ), and returned to the 

"New World" just at the right time, for very soon after we left 
lhe harbor. It was smooth as a polished mirror, so protected is it 
from the southerly winds that generally blow here, by sandy Saa 
Lorenzo, and by a slender tongue of land that projects consider- 
ably, and by Fronton. 

In the harbor were many vessels, chieflj^ merchant ships, not 
laden with gold and silver, but guano ; not to be despised in this 
age of utilitarianism, and bringing plenty of gold and silver in its 
unsavory train. But we quickly lost sight of them, and of the 
town and fortifications ; and adios to the beauteous " Ciudad de 
los Reyes :" if there was any truth in the old proverb, " El que 
bebe de las pilas^ se queda en Lima," we — teetotallers as we are 
— should have staid longer. 

I may mention that I was told that Callao is sufficiently Ameri- 
canized to have, in deference to Yankee tastes and prejudices, be- 
sides its own italia and pisco, timber-doodle, mint-julep, and such 
concoctions. Ice is extremely plentiful. It is ordinarily frozen 
snow from those giant mountains, which are so " convenient" for 
the purpose. 

Again we were on the vast Pacific, and once more under the 
glorious stars and stripes, which I so deeply reverence, honor, and 
love. The evening was most delightfully calm, and we "were per- 
fectly enchanted with our spacious and beautiful cabins, one of 
which had eight large windows, and all wide open, with tffe tran- 
quil ocean lying like a great cloudless sky close to us. Looking 
on that mighty world of waters of the Pacific, I always feel as if I 
saw further — much further than on any other sea. Its lovely 
smoothness, and the sometimes brilliant transparency of the atmos- 
phere, make it seem as if, over its softly-heaving surface, one look- 
ed into very Immensity and Eternity. I marvel not thai some of 
the tribes of the ancient Indians imagined, that beyond that ceru- 
lean-looking ocean Avas placed the everlasting heaven-land to which 



426 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

their enfranchised spirits sailed after death. On this account a 
small canoe was often buried with them, in which they might em- 
bark without delay, with a sufficiency of provisions laid in for the 
voyage. They believed it was a submarine navigation they had 
to perform. 

Of course, I felt this sublime vast effect was always assisted and 
partly produced by the imagination, and the consciousness that one 
might look from Lima, for instance, on and on, if physically em- 1 
powered, to New Zealand in a slanting direction, without encoun- 
tering a single island of any size or significance between, while 
from there again it is all ocean ! 

We had a charming dining, and sitting cabin besides, assigned 
to us, which had four windows. This was like a beautiful satin 
tent : the large, long cabin also was draperied with bright-colored 
satin along its whole extent, and in both there were white marble 
tables with a profusion of gilding, suberb vases, and other decora- 
tions; and the prettiest possible light curtains to all the windows 
of white muslin, embroidered with a thousand vivid colors (which 
curtains, I believe came from Germany) ; and in addition to all 
this, we had most comfortable berths. You see, on the Sacramen- 
to, in far California, they will glide along in a vessel almost as 
luxurious as Cleopatra's barque of old. 

The Captain had thoughtfully ordered a milch goat to be brought 
on board, which supplied us with excellent milk, which I always 
think one of the greatest of luxuries on board ship. A charming, 
little, playful kid accompanied its revered parent, which often paid 
us a welcome visit in our cabin I We had plenty of books, many 
of which belonged to the Captain, mostly interesting voyages and 
travels, which I think interest one more when one is actually trav- 
eling than at any other time. 

In the evening, when sitting in our own quiet cabin, looking 
from our eight windows on the Pacific — often itself like a huge 
melted gold and crimson sun, so dyed with the glories of the de- 
partinl orb — we heard skillful guitar-playing and excellent singing 
in or near the neighboring saloon. They were two musical stew- 
ards, one particularly so, who sang almost every evening a great 
variety of South American and Spanish airs. One was a Bra- 
zilian — I believe from Rio — who not only played the guitar, but 
the castanets admirably ; the other a German. 

One of the passengers was a son, I understand, of the famous 
hatter, Mr. Beebe, of New York, who had crossed the Atlantic 
with us from Liverpool in the " Canada" steamer. He was going 



BRITISH CONSUL AT PAYTA. 427 

out to California, I believe for the second or third time, on a great 
hat speculation. I fancy thousands of those useful articles were 
on their way to the golden land, so well selected to please all 
tastes and suit all fashions, that if I am rightly informed, he has 
reason to hope when he arrives all will take ofi" their hats to him, 
and — put his on. 

After a pleasant voyage we arrived at Payta, and there we 
saw the French frigate " L' Algerie" at anchor. Presently Mon- 
sieur F , the Commodore, was good enough to come and pay us 

a visit, and invite us to go on board the frigate. He proposed our first 
landing to see Payta, which we had not done satisfactorily before. 
We were soon ready, and took our places in the beautiful French 
man-of-war's boat. The men were a very fine sailor-like set, and 
seemed as thorough Jack-tars as even our own John Bulls (or 
rather Jack Bulls) ; they looked as clean and healthy as possible. 

We glided rapidly along, and soon landed on that most barren 

of shores. M. F pointed out to us a number of balsas that 

were hard by. A young French gentleman was lately drowned 
there, but I do not accurately remember the circumstances ; it 
was, however, in landing at this place. 

I was anxious to go and thank in person the British Consul for 
the fine cherimoyas he had the goodness to send me when we were 
here before. I was truly sorry that, as I was not sure the " New 
World" would stop at Payta, I had brought no fruit or other 
oflering from Lima in return for his thoughtful attention. 

We walked through rather a curious-looking street, and before 
long, after visiting the market-place, found ourselves near Mr. Hig- 
genson's house, who came out to meet us, and we crossed a hand- 
some court, and soon found ourselves in a cool, airy room. It was 
very early in the morning, and Mr. Higgenson's daughter was not 
yet up. I am told she is a very handsome and accomplished per- 
son, uniting Anglo-Saxon with Peruvian charms ; for Mrs. Hig- 
genson was a lady of Payta. 

The consul was a little severe on our steamer, for he likened its 
appearance (he had never seen one of that peculiar construction 
before) to that of a great dead whale floating helplessly along. 
After sitting a little while, we took leave of the hospitable consul, 
who wished us to stay to breakfast there : but we declined, for we 
had but little time. 

Walking a short distance through the town, we saw a great 
number of animals laden with provisions and water, that had just 
come in fix>m the country. I can not describe to you the singular 



428 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

appearance of this town, with a desert round it sterile as the Great 
Zahara ; but the inhabitants are, as I before informed you, ex- 
tremely well supplied with all the necessaries, and even luxuries 
of life. My pet aversion, the ambrosial cherimoya, with its com- 
prehensive flavor (according to its admirers) of strawberries, papaus, 
nectarines, cream and custard, in this neighborhood has arrived at 
the very climax of perfection. Numbers of Indians from the 
country were to be seen, attired in their own peculiar costume ; 
the women with long, glossy, blacli plaits of hair, streaming from 
under their Guayaquil hats, and sometimes with immense black 
ponchos hanging considerably below their knees. 

How cruelly was this race treated of old by the Spanish con- 
querors, and after the conquest by those placed in authority over 
them. And yet the Spanish nation, truly generous and chivalrous, 
and the Spanish kings were not to blame ; but that terrible and 
devouring thirst for gold, which seized on all the early colonists, 
and hardened them, as cupidity and the worship of Mammon ordy 
can, till their hearts were petrified, and their natural feelings of 
mercy and justice obliterated. 

It is said that various humane edicts and ordinances, which is- 
sued from the throne, were practically set entirely at naught in the 
colonies. "Los repartimientos," a most unjust system of ta.xation 
was established, and pushed to the utmost. In nearly all the dis- 
tricts, the corregidors from Spain had scarcely any settled salary, 
and lived on what they wrung from the wretched natives. 

As far as the Indians were concerned, these functionaries were 
monopolists of the sale of all the necessaries and all the comforts 
of existence. The corregidor, when he went his round of visita- 
tion to the different hamlets in the part of the country under his 
jurisdiction, carried with him all such articles, bought at extrava- 
gant prices from the Lima merchants, and the Indians were al- 
lowed neither to choose nor to remonstrate. These beardless abo- 
rigines were compelled to purchase razors ; their wives, who de- 
sired no vail but their own abundant long hair, which streamed 
over their shoulders and down their backs, had mantillas forced 
upon them, and so forth ; and the unfortunate people were obliged 
to perform a certain amount of work (according to the sum owed) 
to pay the corregidor whatever price he chose to set on his often 
utterly useless wares, and a tax for the Crown besides. 

The time within which this task was to be com])leted, depended 
on the tyrannical fancies or necessities of the corregidors ; and it 
i'rcquently happened that, wholly unable to comply with the hard 



TUPAC AMARU. 429 



conditions imposed upon them, and to fulfill the unmerciful tasks 
their despotic masters sought to exact from their luiequal strength 
and impoverished energies, they sent deputations to the Spanish 
Viceroy, entreating him to have compassion on them, and to pro- 
tect them from their unfeeling oppressors. But -long ere their 
humble plaints could reach the Viceroy's ears, the crafty corregi- 
dors had contrived to tell their own tale, in their own way ; to 
exaggerate the non-compliance of the poor natives, and to plead 
right and custom, and the most imperative necessity, for their un- 
justifiable extortions. In short, they continually not only escaped 
all censure and punishment themselves, but artfully managed to 
have the wretched aborigines severely chastised for presumed in- 
subordination and rebellion. 

In 1780 the Indians, driven to desperation by continued despot- 
ism and oppression, and seeing no other chance of deliverance from 
the hateful system that was grinding them to the dust, openly re- 
belled. Their chief was named Tupac Amaru. The first act of 
their insurrectionary violence was the indiscriminate slaughter of 
the justly unpopular corregidors, together with other colonists, 
whenever and wherever they could accomplish their destruction. 

The troops of Peru and of Buenos Ayres were united together 
to put an end to this unexpected rebellion. A savage war deso- 
lated the entire country for three years, during which gloomy 
period, horrible barbarities, calling forth fearful retaliations, M'ere 
but too often practiced ; and all was fury, rapine, hatred and re- 
venge. 

At length Tupac Amaru was taken prisoner, and condemned to 
sufier death. The fallen warrior was ignominiously dragged to 
the place where he was sentenced to be executed ; and before his 
horror-stricken eyes, the miserable man was forced to see his wife 
and children pitilessly butchered. He was then subjected to shame- 
ful and inhuman tortures, and finally torn into quarters by four 
horses. 

There was another unjust institution called the Mita, but its 
operation was chiefly confined to Potosi. Every able-bodied male 
was forced to labor for the space of a year in the mines, and at the 
farms the females, in the same manner, were obliged to work to 
acquire for their masters a certain specified and agreed-upon profit 
within the assigned period, beyond the sum required for their own 
subsistence ; but, as it too often happened that their strength 
originally was not equal to comply exactly with the terms of their 
contract, or that they became enfeebled and incapacitated from 



430 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

severe drudgery, they frequently could not work out the stipulated 
sum in time, and thus incurr-ed a debt to their master, and were 
forced to labor on as slaves to liquidate it. 

Instead of diminishing, this debt very often was enlarged, and 
the poor wretches then remained positive slaves for the rest of their 
natural lives ; and if death set them free, the wives and children 
they left behind them were mercilessly seized, and obliged to go on 
with the task which they had failed to finish. 

The food of these vuihappy beings was bad and scanty, more 
especially in the manufactories ; and the over- worked sufferers were 
locked up I'rom dawn till night, and cruelly flogged if their inhuman 
task-masters were not satisfied with the amount of the work done, 
or detected any carelessness in the execution of it. 

It is really terrible to reflect on such scenes of merciless tyranny 
on the one side, and of pitiable degradation on the other : but such 
was the gentle Mita, and its operation and results. It is easy to 
imagine that the greater part of those to whose fate it fell to labor 
thus severely, suffered deeply in health, and in countless cases their 
strength was utterly worn out, and their constitutions irremedia- 
bly shattered, by the time their terrible tasks were accomplished, 
so that probably scarcely one in a dozen survived to return to their 
humble homes. 

The aboriginal population of Peru, at the time of the conquest, 
was stated to be about six millions. In 1796 a census was taken, 
and the number was then 608,899. Since then, till the War of 
Independence, and the Emancipation, the pure Indian population, 
it appears, gradually continued to diminish. 

Those Indians who live beyond Peru, to the eastward of the 
mountains, are said not yet to be civilized or reclaimed, although 
in particular places they submitted to the Missionaries and Jes- 
uits ; and most of the tribes within the vast empire of the Brazils, 
with the exception of a small number on the banks of the giant 
Amazon river, are as wild and thoroughly uncultivated as on the 
day when Columbus first discovered the Western World. 

But I am prosing sadly about the poor Indians. Will the 
reader forgive me, and even let me have a few last words about 
fair, beautiful, and far-famed Peru?" 



CHAPTER LIII. 

Peru — Her internal Communication — Her Forts and Coast — Peruvian Ag- 
riculture — Manufactures of inland Peru — Commerce of Peru — Her Com- 
modities — Her Trade — Her Government — Her Reliirion — Peruvian Fer- 
tility — Mineral Resources — Animals — Cattle — The Face of the Country 
— The Andes — Rivers and Lakes of Peru — Her Coasts. 

Peru labors under very considerable disadvantages, with regard 
to inland communication. 

The elevated plateaux and table-lands, separated by deeply- 
embosomed valleys, and the gigantic mountains that intervene 
between the coast and the table-land, render traveling tedious and 
difficult. Roads and bridges, in many parts, are entirely wanting ; 
and in places where rude and scarcely-distinguishable paths are 
found, they lie along the perilous edges of overhanging and rugged 
precipices, perpendicularly steep ; and these tracks, moreover, are 
almost always so dangerously narrow, that the sure-footed mule 
can alone tread them with any security. 

Those travelers who can afford it are usually carried on the 
backs of Indians : they are borne along in this way often for a 
fortnight or three weeks together, over paths that lead zig-zagging 
along, among rocks and steeps to all appearance inaccessible, and 
through uninhabited wildernesses and unbroken forests. 

The means of necessary internal communication, however, are 
more carefully attended to, in regions that lie lower ; and I am 
informed that the Government are giving their attention — please 
Revolutionists and Pronunciados — to a general system of road- 
making. Perhaps, in time — as engineering difficulties are despised 
and defied in these days, and as the first railroad has already been 
commenced under Government auspices in the country — the Peru- 
vians will connect their chief cities by means of railroads, and join 
in the mighty march of the royal progress of nations. 

A few rather strong forts protect the commerce of Peru on the 
seaboard, and perhaps a couple of small war-steamers complete the 
defensive powers of the nation. As for the standing army, it is 
generally asserted, by persons of more experience than myself on 
such matters, to' be formed of such materials, and so inferior in 



432 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

discipline, &c., as to be useless in case of foreign invasion, and 
perhaps worse than useless in case of domestic dissension.* 

However ill-provided the Peruvians may be with artificial 
means of defense against foreign foes, their coast presents powerful 
natural features for protecting the country. Huge rocky walls, 
almost perpendicular, and towering cliffs, there stand like Na- 
ture's fortresses. All the powers of the earth might be defied 
with proper management and method. Were the Peruvians in 
general like the Swiss, they might perhaps keep the world at bay ; 
but where so many of them are composed of the indolent, passive 
Indian tribes, they are not likely ever to imitate the independent 
example of these sturdy and hardy mountaineers. 

Agriculture in Peru, by all accounts, is still almost in its in- 
fancy ; and in general the implements used in husbandry are of 
rude and simple construction. Their system of farming is com- 
monly altogether primitive and unmethodical. They drive their 
corn and sugar mills generally by means of oxen, overlooking the 
advantages of wind and water. 

The natives of Peru have a good deal of quickness and ingenu- 
ity, though their arts and manufactures, speaking in general, are 
susceptible of very great improvement. There are beautiful 
ponchos of extraordinary fineness made in the district of Tarma ; 
thick and excellent blankets on the table-lands, as well as other 
articles. In the valleys, cow-hides are made into traveling-cases, 
for hammocks, or for beds and bedding ; and goat-skins into what 
are called cordovans ; mats used for carpeting are manufactured 
from rushes, and packing-cords from a native plant. 

Inland Peru is celebrated for its exquisite silver filigree-work : 
this is chiefly made at Huamanca, and is perhaps unparalleled for 
beauty, delicacy, and durability ; but in a general way, the United 
States and Europe, in the principal towns, supersede with their 
manufactures, to a great extent, the less-finished productions of 
the natives ; and in exchange for gold and silver or raw material 
these are plentifully supplied to Peru. 

The commerce of the country has lately materially increased, 
during a temporarily lull of foreign and domestic disturbance. Of 

* We left all of our friends at Lima very apprehensive of the riots and 
excesses of the next presidential eleetion, which is now beginning to be 
much thought of They tell me, they generally, on such occasions, have 
their houses barricaded and closed, and are obliged to imprison themselves 
strictly the whole time. Robberies, massacres, and violences are said to bo, 
of continual occurrence there. I only repeat what I was told, and would 
gladly believe such statements exaggerated. 



PERUVIAN COMMODITIES. 433 

the export trade the principal articles are the precious metals, 
copper, quicksilver, and tin, and other metals. While Mexico 
■was under the necessity of sending to Europe for mercury, Peru 
boasted of a good supply of her own at the mines of Huanca- 
Velica, one portion of which for two centuries produced yearly 
three thousand quintals ; but such "was the state of afiairs in Peru 
in the years '37 and '38, that the quicksilver sold at two hundred 
to two hundred and twenty dollars per quintal, while in London, 
at the same period, it was sold at sixty-five dollars. The working 
of the mines was then naturally suspended ; but now the mining 
operations have been revived by private companies, and thus some 
of the richest quicksilver mines in the known world are as pro- 
ductive again as ever. 

The ancient Peruvians formerly used vermilion or red lead in 
their colored delineations, but I know not if it is still found there. 
Peruvian bark and various kinds of plants for medicinal purposes 
are also exported ; drugs, precious woods, and gums of different 
descriptions ; hides, tallow, &c. ; seal, chincilli, and other skins ; 
cotton and wool, and other articles of less value. 

Peruvian wool is considered to be equal to English, but it is 
customary to export it in a very dirty condition, which occasions it 
to be sold at a reduced price. South Peru supplies the largest 
quantity, but the vicuna and alpaca are reckoned the best. Cot- 
ton is exported from Payta, Islay, and Arica, but the annual 
quantity is said not to be above thirty thousand quintals. 

Of late, saltpetre has become an article of considerable trade. 
It is said that each successive year now manifests a rather large 
increase in the amount of exports. The imports into the republic 
are of great variety, and are chiefly from the United States and 
Great Britain ; France and Germany have, however, of late 
introduced a greatly increased number of their respective wares. 

Probably Peru for some length of time will continue to receive 
vast quantities of foreign-manufactured goods, more particularly 
those of the more delicate and finished descriptions, while the differ- 
ent exporting nations in exchange for these will be not disadvan- 
tageously repaid through the resources of the enormous mineral 
wealth of that highly-favored country.* 

In the year 1847 the trade between the United States and 
Peru amounted to the following numbers : exports from the United 
States to Peru, 192,978 dollars; exports from Peru received in 

* The total imports in 1840 amounted to 10,100,000 dollars, the total ex- 
ports to 9,741,733 dollars. 

T 



TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



the United States, 396,223 dollars. — But enough of commercial 
statistics. 

ThePeruvian Constitution, estahlished finally in 1839, recognizes 
distinctly executive, legislative, and judicial functions, which are 
thoroughly independent of, and separate from each other. The 
government, as you know^, is founded on popular supremacy and 
democratic principles. The President's term of service is for six 
years, and to him the executive power is delegated by Congress. 

There is not, as in the United States, a Vice-President ; but the 
president of the executive council succeeds to the presidency in the 
event of death or dismissal from office. This council consists of 
the ministers and of members of the senate. In a senate and 
assembly chosen from the people through electoral colleges, resides 
the legislative power. The representatives are thus apportioned ; 
one for every twenty thousand inhabitants. 

Judges are appointed by the executive, and are irremovable 
except for ill conduct. The Constitution provides for the several 
subju-diciaries, and nominates justices having separate qualifications 
for the departments, the districts, towns, and parishes. The oper- 
ations of the courts are said to be carried on with impartiality and 
honor. But among the indispensable qualifications of a Peruvian 
judge, knowledge of the law is said not to rank ; and through the 
want of the necessary learning on the part of the lawyers and the 
arbitrator, the most grave injuries are not unfrequently inflicted 
unintentionally on the unlucky applicant* 

The established religion is Roman Catholic, and none besides is 
tolerated. An Archbishop and several sufli-agans preside over the 
church. The ai'chiepiscopalian residence is at Lima. The church 
is stated to be enormously wealthy, and to have amassed vast 
amounts of property from devout donors. 

Literature is generally believed to be in a state of steady, but 
slowly-progressive development. Enhghtened and superior educa- 
tion is limited to a certain number of the whites : the Indians and 
negroes seldom learn any thing more than the business of their 
confined and simple transactions demands. 

As to the fertility of Peru — independently of its fine and tropical 
climate, which allows it to be fruitful in nearly all the vegetable 
productions of the East and of the West Indies — the elevation of 
its various mountains, as in Mexico, causes the plants and the 
fruits of all climes and latitudes to grow to perfection within its 
extensive limits. Rice, sugar, tobacco, cocoa, yams, sweet pota- 
toes, Sec, are cultivated in the warmer situations ; while in the 



MINERAL RESOURCES.— CATTLE. 435" 

colder, are wheat, the vine and quinoa (chenopodium quinoa). 
The grapes are good, but the wine made from them is indifferent. 

Maize is cultivated, and forms the common diet of the popu- 
lation. The dried leaf of the erythroxylon coca is much used by- 
Peruvians for chewing, as the betel is in the East. A kind of 
melancholy madness, Poppig says, is brought on by its use ; but 
other authorities are of opinion that it produces no deleterious 
effects. The chinchona, or Peruvian bark, is indigenous and in 
great abundance : it grows at the elevation of ten or twelve thou- 
sand feet and abounds mostly in the provinces of the north. 

Like those of Mexico, the mineral resources of Peru are univers- 
ally believed to be inexhaustible. The entire country is one mighty 
mound of incalculable mineral wealth ; the rivers, and streams, 
and mountains are glittering and sparkling with gold, with silver, 
and with precious stones. It is stated that the greater part of the 
mines actually being worked at present, are situated in the Cerro 
de Pisco in the Junin department ; but I hear their amount of 
produce has considerably fallen off" since the last revolutionary 
troubles, which left behind them so much anarchy, and such a 
depressing sense of doubt and insecurity. M'Culloch is inclined to 
estimate the average annual value of the mines of gold and silver 
of Peru at from seven hundred to seven hundred and fifty thousand 
pounds sterling. 

Peruvian animals do not differ much from those of other parts 
of South America. The American lion or puma ; the uturuncu (a 
kind of tiger); a black bear that inhabits the mountains; the 
skunk; a number of varieties of deer, armadillos, bears, &c., are 
among the catalogue of Peruvian wild animals, and are hunted 
by the natives. The llama, vicuna, alpaca, and guanaco, and 
many others, are either used as beasts of burden, or are prized for 
their skin and wool. In the rivers are alligators. Reptiles are 
not so abundant or troublesome as nearer the Equator. 

The cattle of Peru are not particularly large, but yet are on an 
equality with the generality of those in Great Britain and Bel- 
gium. The meat is generally tender, well-flavored, and juicy, es- 
pecially when fed on Lucerne grass. The bones are very small. 
In the mountains, black cattle thrive well ; but rapidly pine, fall 
away, and die on the low lands of the coast. Mules and horses 
are usually of an ordinary size, but goats, swine, &c., grow very 
large in Peru, and are reckoned of a superior sort. 

Sheep, of all foreign animals acclimated in Peru, seem to some 
to have succeeded the best. At an elevation of twelve or fourteen 



436 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

thousand feet above the level of the sea, on the vast commons and 
pasture grounds of the Andes, they have increased to an extraor- 
dinary degree. On the coast but few sheep are bred, but during 
particular months, vast flocks are driven from the interior, and 
fattened for the market of Lima. A usual bargain between the 
drovers and the farmers is to give the lambs for pasturage, the 
latter calculating on receiving one hundred and fifty lambs from 
every hundred ewes. 

In addition to this increase, which surpasses that in England, 
there are lambs twice a year, commonly in June and December. 
Hitherto little care has been taken by the breeders to improve the 
wool, but this is fast becoming here an increased article of export. 
More attention, without doubt, will be speedily drawn to the subject. 

This fertile country has on the north the republic of the Ecua- 
dor ; on the south and southeast it is bounded by Bolivia, and on 
the east by the vast empire of the Brazils, the Pacific being on the 
west. Its greatest length from S.S.E. to N.N.W. is calculated 
to be about fifteen hundred miles, and its breadth varies much ; 
at some parts it is six hundred miles. Its estimated area is five 
hundred thousand square miles. 

The whole of the country is traversed by the Cordilleras of the 
Andes. The eastern range of these mountains approaches to 
within from thirty to a hundred miles of the Pacific coast. The 
country is naturally divided into three separate regions ; consisting 
firstly, of the slope between the Andes and the coast ; secondly, the 
mountain regions of the Andes themselves ; thirdly, that part lying 
east of the Cordilleras, forming part of the great basin of the 
Amazon. 

These divisions are all very dissimiliar in character. Between 
the Tumbez river and the Leche, the coast region is almost a 
desert — that is to say, where it is not traversed by streams, or is 
not susceptible of artificial irrigation : in such parts it is principal- 
ly composed of arid, sandy, and sterile wastes, and is barren and 
desolate. Immediately upon the coast lie all the principal settle- 
ments made by the Spaniards. 

The Andes in Peru consist of two main chains or Cordilleras, 
in different parts connected by intersecting ranges, and inclosing 
various extensive and splendid valleys. A mighty cluster of 
mountains rear their lofty crests around Cuzco, occupying probably 
three times the extent of Switzerland. Around Pasco (in latitude 
13° south) is another knot that surrounds the plain of Bombon, 
thirteen thousand five hundred feet above the level of the ocean, 



THE CORDILLERAS. 437 

and in which are found the productive and valuable silver mines of 
the Cerro Pasco. 

The loftiest summits of the Peruvian Andes are toward the 
south, where the Nevada da Chuquibamba reaches to twenty-one 
thousand feet in height. Several others, surrounding the noble 
valley of Desaguadero, may also approach nearly to this elevation, 
indeed some may equal or transcend it. In Peru, the west Cor- 
dillera is the loftiest at the mountain knot of Pasco, the Andes 
separating into three collateral chains, which proceeding northward, 
divide the basins of the Maranon, Huallaga, and Ucayale. The 
last range of the Andes to the east, in Peru, extends between the 
sixth and fifteenth parallels, to a distance varying from two to four 
hundred miles from the Pacific, and divides the basin of the 
Ucayale from those of the Yavari, Beni, and other affluxes to the 
mighty Amazon. 

The space called the Sierra, which is inclosed between the 
colossal ridges of the Western and Eastern Cordilleras, is in some 
parts occupied by mountains and sterile rocks ; in others, by table- 
lands, on which grows a short fine grass, and by a considerable 
tract of hilly pasture-ground ; and in other parts, again, by fertile 
and extensive valleys, that formerly supported a large population. 

The country east of the Cordilleras, the third region, is still 
comparatively unknown. It is almost buried in forests, all but 
impenetrable, and apparently interminable, and can hardly with 
justice be said to be a part of Peru, being occupied solely by a few 
devoted missionaries and by tribes of independent Indians. 

In the great Peruvian Andes, the mightiest and largest rivers 
in the world have their source. The Tunguragua, regarded in 
general as the proper source of that sublime river the Amazon, 
and its vast and majestic confluents, Huallaga and Ucayale, the 
latter of which is formed by the junction of the Pare river with 
the Apurimac, have their sources on the eastern side of the west- 
ern chain of the Cordilleras, and flow through, with many tortu- 
ous windings, in a northerly direction, until they pass the bounda- 
ries of the country. 

These mighty rivers are mostly navigable, and with the desira- 
ble assistance of steam navigation, without doubt, ere a lengthened 
period has elapsed, they will carry the wealth of this distant region 
across the continent to the ports of the Atlantic Ocean. 

Peru has but few lakes, but boasts that of Titieaca, which is 
the largest and most elevated lake in the whole of South America. 
.This, however, is partly in the neighboring country of Bolivia, 



^8 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

being inclosed by the Cordilleras, south of the table-land of Cuzco. 
It is remarkably irregular in its outline : a number of head-lands 
divide it into a main body of oblong shape, and several subsidiary 
portions. Its height above the sea is about ] 2,795 feet, and its 
area 4000 square miles, and in many places it is reported to be 
500 feet deep. Many small mountainous islands are contained 
in it, and the lake takes its name, which signifies the " Leaden 
Mountain," from the largest. On this island, which is generally 
uncultivated, though extremely fertile, tradition places the first ap- 
pearance of Manco Capac. 

The remaining lakes in Peru are small, comparatively speaking; 
but are the sources from whence all the noble rivers that pursue 
an eastward course take their beginning. As to the rivers of the 
coast, they are of little account, being, shallow, small, and incap- 
able of navigation. 

The coasts are lofty and bold throughout. Some miles of a 
loose sandy desert intervene in the northern provinces, between 
the high lands and the Pacific ; but generally the lofty cliffs 
approach close to the shore, which perhaps, in an extent of one 
thousand six hundred miles, has not a dozen really secure harbors. 
Of these the best are Callao, Payta, Salina, Sechura, Pisco, Islay, 
and some few others. Lambayeque and Truxillo have merely 
open roadsteads. Vessels are obliged to go within a quarter of a 
mile before they can anchor, and the terrific swell that rolls with 
unbroken force from the vast Pacific, causes a prodigious and 
perilous surf. 



CHAPTER LIV. 

Departure from Peru — On board the "New World" — The nautical Ladies — 
Chimborazo and Cotopaxi — The Volcanoes of the Cordillera — Crater of 
Cotopaxi — A narrow Escape — Arrival at Panama — An Amateur Concert 
— Departure from Panama — Scene occasioned by a dead Mule — Badness 
of the Road — Arrival at Cruces. 

Once more we are in the French man-of-war's boat, taking our 
leave of balsas, cherimoyas, and the shores of Peru. 

Before we started we met a gentleman who informed us the 
American steamer was going almost immediately ; so we gave up 
visiting ' L'Algerie ;' but we went close to her, and beautiful she 
looked and in perfect order ; and then we hastened to our dis- 
paraged and maligned steamer, which reminded us, instead of a 



NAUTICAL LADIES. 439 

dead whale, of the river-palaces of the Mississippi, full of life and 
power. 

With much regret we took leave of Monsieur F , and sent 

by him a message to say, how sorry we were not to see again his 
charming wife. I can never forget their amiability and cordial 
kindness. Indeed having met them will ever be among the most 
pleasant recollections of my travel. 

On going on board the " New World," we found we were going 
to take a little turn for an hour or two, to give some nautical 
recreation to two or three Paytian ladies, who were friends of the 
American Consul's family. Had we known this, we might have 

staid and visited iMadame F and " L'Algerie." They all 

came on board in high glee ; but we had not proceeded far ere we 
heard many dolorous plaints from these inexperienced voyagers : 
their heads ached with the motion of the ship : they were giddy : 
" Se marea Vm., Seiioritas." " Es el primer viaje, Caballero!" 
Soon after they were obliged to confess they did not feel superla- 
tively well, and seemed to wish the Captain to land them at once, 
though it was not easy, in the middle of the water. "Despachese 
V. vamos I" to the Captain. This, however, was also difficult. 
The steamer had coals on board to serve her as far as San Fran- 
cisco (Captain W said he had never seen a vessel so deep iu 

the water), and her movements thereby were not accelerated. 

Finding they must take it philosophically, the ladies of Payta 
behaved like heroines, rallied one another on their bad sailorship, and 
laughed away their discomfort. " Que tertulia tan alegre I" " Si, 
pero — a fe mia me mareo." " Vaya, vaya, una idea, Conchita I" 
The Captain, too, assures them it is only fancy — they are quite 
mistaken. Ah ! the "Norte Americanos" are so funny I and they 
laugh — how they laugh I — in a pretty, silvery-sounding chorus, 
and then stop to ask the captain if a storm has not come on (it is 
as smooth as a mirror). But great is the delight when they near 
Payta again ! Then they suddenly feel overwhelmed with the 
charms and pleasures of their little voyage, though it was so "bor- 
rascoso — Ah ! habia peUgro de naufragar." They don't feel quite 
sure they have not been down to the bottom and back again ; the 
" Capitan" tells them they are perfect sailors; he would ask no 
better wife than the Seiiorita Conchita, born to be a " skipperina." 
Ah, Capitan I our voyage has been charming — " a las mil mara- 
villas I pero — que prodigio !" They never saw Payta look half so 
beautiful before : the land looked lovely, quite so I paradisiacally 
charming, positively I (such au Ai'abia Petrea as it was !) 



440 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

At last they trip, with their white-satined little feet, into the 
boat, and I dovibt not laughed right merrily during their happy 
disembarkation. But perhaps alter this first trial they will take 
courage to make a voyage to Guayaquil next time, especially as 
they so nobly braved such awful terrors and sea-sickness. 

And now indeed farewell to Peru. Does the reader remember 
the curious island I mentioned, not far from Guayaquil, bearing 
resemblance to a corpse ? We were not to stop at Guayaquil, 
and I had no idea we should go near the land ; but by chance 
looking out of my cabin-window — it was quite early in the morn- 
ing — I beheld that singular isle not i'ar ol', and knew it again in- 
stantaneously. 

We were then near Guayaquil. Bright and lovely grew the 
morning, as we sped on ; extraordinarily clear grew the air ; and, 
oh I delight I there were the giant mountains. There stood 
glorious old Chimborazo, once supposed to be the highest mountain 
in the world, but now a dethroned king, yet very monarch-like 
still ; shining with its never-melted snows, as if, like Shelley's 
Moon, it was "with white fire laden" — and those white fires 
seemed to brighten the very daylight around. 

I imagine another mighty n)ountain I saw, that seemed tower- 
ing almost as high, was Cotopaxi ; I have been told, at least, 
since, that they were both visible that morning. Chimborazo is 
supposed by some authors, to be an extinguished volcano ; if so, 
perhaps some day the Moon of Snow that crowns its gigantic 
peak, will be melted by the terrific fires that are pent up in its uii- 
fathomable and awful caverns, and the huge mountain will return 
to its dangerous activity, and recover from its long-continued trance 
of " suspended animation." 

As to their geological structure, the great thickness and extent 
of the porphyritic and schistose rock, are said to be the only phe- 
nomena by which the Andes are distinguished from the mountains 
of Europe. The crest of the Andes is universally covered with 
basalts, porphyries, green-stone, and clink-stone. Divided into 
columns, these rocks look at a distance like vast assemblages of 
dilapidated and pinnacled towers. Without any admixture, the 
porphyries of Chimborazo are eleven thousand four hundred feet 
in thickness ; and the pure quartz to the west of Caxamarca is 
nine thousand feet, and the sandstone of the neighborhood of 
Cuenca, four thousand eight hundred feet ; while granite and 
primitive limestone in Europe, I believe, constitute the summits of 
mountain chains. 



THE CRATER OF COTOPAXI. 441 

Some of the volcanoes of the Cordillera throw out scorified 
rocks, or water, and often clay, with a mixture of carbon and 
sulphur. The most elevated of the mountains of the Andes from 
which in late years there have been eruptions, is Cotopaxi. Its 
height is 18,890 feet. This volcano in 1758, shot its formidable 
flames to a height of 2700 feet above the edge of the crater. In 
the eruption of 1744, its roaring was heard in Honda at a distance 
of two hundred leagues. 

The eruption of 1803 was preceded by an awful phenomenon. 
The snows covering the mountain suddenly melted. For above 
twenty years no distinguishable vapor or cloud of smoke had risen 
from the crater ; but in one night the subterranean fire had so 
rapidly done its work, that the outward walls of the cone were 
heated till they had become bare, and exhibited the black color 
that belongs to vitrified scoriae. Humboldt heard at the port of 
Guayaquil, fifty-two leagues from the edge of the crater, the 
roaring of Cotopaxi day and night, like almost continual dis- 
charges of artillery. 

By degrees we began to advance a little quicker, as our coal 
somewhat diminished. We fell in with the English steamer, and 
the Captain tried to speak her, but in vain. It was in the even- 
ing, and at first we thought we saw lights on shore, and fancied 
that we must be near the coast, but we soon observed that those 
lights changed their bearings, and saw that it must be a ship. 

Soon after, the Captain sent us down word that it was the 
English mail steamer. Cosmopolite as I am, to a certain extent 
— I felt that that steamer looked like a little bit of our " father- 
land," sailing as we were on the great Pacific in an American 
ship — though under the shadow of the stars and stripes I always 
feel at home, " un poco nfias o menos," as the Mexicans so often 
say. 

One morning a huge shark, that had been pertinaciously follow- 
ing our vessel, was caught, but the floundering monster got loose 
again. We saw a great number of whales another day, spouting 
up splendid fountains of water : it was a beautiful sight. 

We had an alarm, which did not, however, last long, one night. 
We had been watching the beautiful phosphorescence on the 
cloven waters, when, on a sudden, the bell was rung sharply and 
violently, and almost immediately the engine stopped. Soon, very 
soon after, we saw from the cabin windows an enormous black 
object drifting by, so close that we fancied it must touch the side 
of the steamer. It was a ship. She had crossed our track, and a 



442 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

collision was avoided by a mere hair's breadth. I think I have 
not yet spoken of the extraordinaiy fog-banks we saw on our 
previous voyage. Really we could hardly believe that it was not 
land, an immense island, that we were looking at. 

On our voyage we saw one or two huge merchant ships, walk- 
ing the waters gloriously indeed ; one especially of great size, with 
all her sails set, that looked like a perfect castle of canvas. Then 
we had glorious Pacific sunsets and sun-risings, and splendid 
weather almost the whole way. 

At length we found ourselves once more in the Bay of Panama. 
We felt quite sorry to leave our beautiful and comfortable cabin ; 
and I shall always feel grateful to the Captain of the " New 
World," for his obliging civilities and attentions toward us. We 
stopped only a day or two at Panama, where, according to a 
previous invitation, we remained under the hospitable roof of the 
English Consul. 

I was very anxious to get our muling and canoeing over, as 
the rainy season was becoming worse and worse. I also longed to 
reach Jamaica, to possess myself of the dear home-letters I ex- 
pected to find there. Mules were quickly secured ; and first 
Monday, but afterward, from some unavoidable delay, Tuesday 
was appointed for our transit across the Isthmus. 

A pleasant little amateur concert took place at Mr. P— 's, 

the second evening we were there. We met again our amiable 

French friends. Some English ladies, and Mrs. L , a lady of 

New Granada, married to the English Vice-Consul, were there 

too ; Mrs. L , with a nice little girl, one of her numerous 

children, who seemed hardly to understand English. The child 
appeared passionately fond of music, and remained as if glued to 

the piano-forte. Madame H o most kindly lent us side-saddles 

for our ride, which materially contributed to our comfort. 

The morning we were to start, the pre-payment for the mules 
occupied some little time — no slight affair when you have to pay 
eighty or ninety dollars in French franc pieces, which we had to 
do at Panama. After this was satisfactorily concluded (the price, 
however, having been raised on account of the dreadful state of 

the roads), we were preparing to start, when Mr. P , who 

with his daughter was kindly intending to ride a few miles with 
us, was hastily summoned to give his advice with respect to a 
poor sailor, who had just broken his leg in an English ship in the 
harbor. He was sent, without any unnecessary delay, to the 
hospital. Poor fellow ! perhaps he had gone unharmed through 



DEPARTURE FROM PANAMA. 443 

many a savage tempest to meet with so serious a misfortune in 
the peaceful harbor. 

At last we started, and rode pently through the streets and 
plazas of Panama, which reminded me, among other ruined places, 
of beautiful Messina, which we saw almost directly after it had 
sufiered from a third bombardment during the last revolutionary 
troubles of Sicily. Yet was Panama lovely, as if dilapidation be- 
came it. We had quite a gay cavalcade : Blr. P on a beau- 
tiful horse. Miss P ditto, young M. H o, who amiably 

came also to accompany us a little way out of the city, and M. 
Santa Maria, to whom the mules belonged, who was to go with 
us himself the whole way to Cruces. 

M. H o (by his friends always called Pepe, the diminutive, as I 

am informed, of Jose) was on a fiery steed, which he was tryinsf, I 
believe, for the first time. We were all gently cantering on, having 
just left the suburbs of the city behind us, when his horse became 
restive, and played all sorts of curious anlies ; waltzing round 
without partner or music, and performing many other eccentricities. 
He was obliged to leave us, which took much from the pictur- 
esqueness of our cavalcade, for his wild-looking, plunging, prancing- 
about courser, that '' caracolearecV so finely, and his gay poncho 
streaming from his shoulders, and all the handsome Panamanian 
accoutrements, that made him look so South American, or rather 
so like a Spanish caballero merely a little South Americanized — 
were not a sight to be seen every day. 

We were already at a good distance from Panama, and soon 

after our kind friends, Mr. and Miss P , said good-by to us ; 

and on we journeyed, finding the sun terrifically hot, and glad to 
see some prospect of shade ahead, and wondering whether this was 
really a rainy season (soon we were convinced) I A miserable 
looking man, on a mi.serable looking mule, was following the same 

road we were (to Cruces), Mr. P had entered into a little 

conversation with him, and the poor emaciated being told him he 
had just come from California, from the mines, where he sufTered 
greatly from exposure, and from standing up to his waist in water 
often, till it brought on a particular kind of paralysis that is said to 
be very common at the California mines, and incurable. 

We had stopped for ten minutes or so, to take leave of our 
friends, and the poor, wretched object on a mule, that looked as if 
it also had been disappointed in Cahfornia, and was returning in 
starvation and disgust, with its long-eared head almost bowed to 
the ground, had got the start of us. Not very long afterward, at 



444 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

a very narrow part of the road, where it ran between two walls of 
slippery dill's, this very mule, dead, and obstructing the path, was 
displayed to the horror-struck eyes of his quadruped relations. 
" Arre," shrieked the mozos. There was scarcely any room for 
them to step on one side, and the banks were too steep for the 
laden mules to climb ; but they refused to pass over their fallen 
fellow-creature. They would not trample on their brother, laid 
low in the dust — O ! mule, mule, how unlike art thou to man I 

Then ensued a scene that baffles all powers of description. Wc 
were first alarmed by the leading baggage-mule charging back 
upon us, with his eyes starting out of his head, and looking per 
fectly mad with terror and horror. Then the others caught sight 
of the dreaded object, and were equally horrified with the I'ugleman 
of their party. Again and again the yelling muleteers and mozoa 
strove to drive them over the obstruction ; shrieks, blows, shouts, 
gesticulations, thrusts, threats, all were in vain. Such a melee of 
men and mules, legs, arms, sticks, tails, trunks, heels, long ears, 
shoes, sombreros, and portmanteaus 1 never beheld, and the scene 
and the noise were appalling. 

All seemed in vain. I don't know which appeared the maddest, 
the mules or the men ; the worst of all, perhaps, was poor Seiior 
Santa Maria — the mozos drove (or tried to drive) the mules, and 
he drove the mozos. As to the mules, the poor, insane creatures, 
snorting, trembling, plunging, and half jumping one over the other, 
seemed as if they could not overcome their terror, and their intense 
aversion to touch the body of their lifeless companion. The men 
tried to drag the dead mule up the steep banks, but they could not 
manage it, so the battle recommenced. 

At the beginning of the fray, with the most extraordinary in- 
trepidity, I had — run away. Now if the reader thinks this para- 
doxical, let me inform him that it required some courage, not being 
a fly, to clamber up the sides of a perpendicular precipice of glass, 
for such pretty nearly was the wall of rock on either side of us. I 
was not alone in this act of glorious valor. We all, by common 
consent, slipped from our saddles at the same moment, and sci-am- 
bled up that horrible bank ; it would have been perishing very 
ignominiously to be squeezed flat between two of our own trunks, 
and kicked out of the world by refractory mules. 

As for the mules, they submitted at last : probably, however, 
they had so lost their mulish senses in the confusion, that they did 
not know which way they were going. I saw some of them taking 
a mad flying leap over their poor fallen fellow-brute, and the others 



BADNESS OF THE ROAD. 445 

instinctively followed. Seiaor Santa Maria informed us afterward, 
not a single mule touched the body of the dead one, not even the 
heaviest laden. There is something very touching, I think, in the 
respect shown by the poor animals for their fellow-comrade, and 
for death. 

We passed afterward many other dead mules, but none that had 
died, poor fellows, so inconveniently as that one. It was just in 
the most narrow and difficult pass of the route. Poor things I that 
horribly bad road tries their strength so dreadfully I They are 
generally dragged on one side of the pathway ; and, except from 
the shocking stench, they caused us no annoyance. What became 
of the unfortunate paralytic Californian we never knew.- 

At one place where we stopped to let the mules drink — a very 
wild, romantic-looking spot — there were a number of natives 
crouched under the trees, talking and laughing. One, who was 
huddled up all of a heap, appeared as if he had no particular feat- 
ures or form of his own, looking, as uncouth people do sometimes, 
as if he was merely a fortuitous concourse of atoms ; he bore evi- 
dently a strong disUke to the Americans. " Ah ! Yankis I ah I 
Yankis ! Go-head I Aha I Go! come I ho! head-ago!" he kept 
calling out, and repeatedly mimicking and caricaturing some one 
pushing impatiently along. I remember almost the same thing 
happened on our first visit to the Isthmus. 

The road v/as execrable. Imagine the great wall of China 
pulled down over it, and scattered in huge blocks and rugged frag- 
ments along it, in all possible irregularity and confusion ; and oc- 
casionally rushing streams swollen by the rain, dashing and roaring 
across the rocky road, through which the careful mules half-waded, 
half swam. At times you have to clamber up and down a curious 
kind of steep staircase or rocky ladder, half-natural and half-arti- 
ficial, some short, some long, but all prodigiously rugged and rough, 
and startling us with their apparent impracticability. 

We progressed tediously along fi'om one " pantano" (marsh, or 
pool) to another. My mule, though a very good one, fell and 
scrambled up again three limes ; luckily for me, I kept on the 
saddle. I generally went first, and thus had to experimentalize 
and choose the road. The patience and prudence of the mules are 
extreme. They will stand sometimes in a brown study, pondering 
over the path, and then seem to feel their way as if their hoofs 
were hands. 

We suddenly encountered at a narrow turn in the road, some 
extraordinary looking affairs ; some like gibbets, others like fittings 



446 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

for a theatre, benches, lumber, railings, posts, «kc. ; and the men- 
mules, who were carrjdng them, seemed sorely fatigued. We saw 
afterward other parts of the same huge nondescript laid by the side 
of the path ; I suppose temporarily, till the peons had rested. 
These belonged to a traveling circus of an American (Colonel 
Somebody, whose name I forget), en route to Panama. 

As to the rain, I can not give any idea of it : it found its cata- 
ract-like way through the thick-woven boughs of the forest, and 
almost washed us from our mules where it was more open. Do 
not be afraid of having any long descriptions of the beauty of 
scenery on the way to Cruces ; through that curtain and wall of 
water, nothing was to be seen. It is like going behind the falling 
sheet of Niagara, I think, only there you are comparatively dry. 
What a procession of mermaids on horseback — I mean muleback 
— we were. The holes our poor mules plunged in and out of, are 
frightful to think of even at this distance ! Mine came down into 
them several times, but extricated himself and regained his legs 
again. These were not the regular serious tumbles, but only little 
extra variations and pastimes, pour passer le temps. 

It was partly a subterraneous ride, such caverns and chasms did 
we go groping among. Scrambling in and out of these places 
made us about twice as long as we should have been under other 
circumstances. Indeed, it pretty nearly doubled the distance ; and 
by the time we arrived at Cruces, it had been dusk about half an 
hour. Our mules had proved excellent ones ; and in taking leave 
of their civil master, we complimented him much on his animals. 



CHAPTER LV. 

The Hotel at Cruces — A felonious Cat — The New Granadian Gentlemen — 
Progress toward Chagres — Lightning, Thunder, and Rain — Arrival at 
Chagres — The dead American — Quarrels between Americans and the 
Natives of Panama — Humboldt's Estimate of the Indians — Incredulity of 
Caliibrnian Emigrants — Melancholy Case of two returned Californians — 
A beautiful Sunset — Arrival at Jamaica — Kingston — Descent of General 
Lopez on Cuba — Strange Efl'ect of it — Reverses of Jamaica Planters — The 
Glories of Nature — Creation's Praise, a Poem. 

Crucks is overflowing with Americans. Look at that one with 
(as is often the case) a paroquet on his hat, a monkey on his right 
shoulder, and a squirrel on his left — surely not all the riches he is 
going to take back to " the States" — who can doubt his being a 



A FELONIOUS CAt. M^ 



true Connecticut Yankee, one of those who have occasionally 
manufactured "oak punapkin-seeds, so nateral that they actilly 
sprouted ?" These gentry almost invariably ask us, as we pass, 
what State we are from. 

The little American hotel at Cruces was quite full, so we passed 
the night in a native house. The master was very obliging, and 
so were his family and servants ; but the poor old man had become 
half crazy since his wife's death, which had occurred a short time 
previously. He swung in his hammock in the state room of the 
cane lodge incessantly — not that that, however, is any proof of 
madness, or the white population of South America would all need 
strait waistcoats ; but his speech and manners were incoherent and 
wandering, though he tried to be civil and hospitable. 

The cabin consisted of two rooms, I believe ; one, the front room, 
which served as parlor, dining-room, dormitory, and kitchen, and 
one which was given up to us. We all passed a pretty good 
night, though a disastrous adventure happened. We had a cold 
chicken, Avhich with biscuits and chocolate, was to be the next 
morning's repast. Soon after we retired to rest a scuffling noise 
M'as heard ; a plunge and a rattling of paper, in which the ines- 
timable chicken Avas wrapped, and a confused scramble. Alas I 
the cat had entered, and carried off at one fell swoop our intended 
breakfast. Jeremiads were useless. We forgot our misfortunes in 
sleep, and in the morning got something to supply the place of our 
lost chicken, which make-shift, though not so good, yet answered 
pretty well. 

No time was to be lost. At a very early hour in the morning 
I sent to engage a boat, and some owners of canoes, who I learned 
were very respectable people, came and agreed to take us to 
Chagres for what appeared to me a reasonable consideration. 
They promised to be at Chagres that evening, to put up a good 
awning, and to prepare their boat as soon as possible ; I, therefore, 
engaged their canoe ; and, as is customary in the Isthmus, paid 
down the money. 

We waited a good while, and I thought it would be better to 
go down to the shore, and hurry them a little by personally super- 
intending the preparations. I found them dawdling most industri- 
ously ; but by entreaties and good words, and patient, though 
earnest exhortations to them to bestir themselves, I accomplished 
my object, and soon all was ready. The awning was a far superior 
one to the vile trap we had before in our Isthmus canoe, and all 
promised well. 



448 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

Just before we started, two Granadian gentlemen came running 
down the bank with some light baggage, to hold a parley with 
the head-boatman, who presently afterward came to me, and be- 
seechingly and deprecatingly begged me to allow him to set these 
caballeros down at a village he iramed, not far down the river : 
without my permission, of course, he said he told them it was im- 
possible ; but they had been disappointed, I think, of a boat they 
had tried to get, and were anxious to avail themselves of this 
favorable opportunity. 

Would not this much retard us, by loading the canoe so much 
more, I wished to know ] He assured me we should not be a mo- 
ment longer on account of it, and it would particularly oblige them 
and the caballeros if I would give my consent. I granted their 
request, of course as a great indulgence, and ofl" we started, under 
a broiling sun at first (but that was soon changed for deluges of 
rain) ; indeed, while I stood on the shore, superintending the con- 
struction of the awning, I thought my bonnet would almost have 
been burnt on my head by the intense rays of the sun. 

The New Granadians soon arrived at their destination, paid 
the boatmen, and thanked me very gratefully and gracefully for 
the permission I had accorded ; and lifting their light sombreros, 
and murmuring a profusion of acknowledgments, away they ran 
up the bank, and away we sped along the winding river. 

Our boatmen hurried on in the highest good-humor, and appa- 
rently determined I should have no occasion to regret this simple 
act of complaisance. The rain was terrific. 

I said our ride was a sort of subterranean grope — through such 
hT)les we burrowed along ; and really our little voyage seemed a 
kind of submarine navigation, pleasingly diversified, however, by 
several awful storms of thunder and lightning ; but, alas I by no 
coral bowers, no pearly grots — we saw, felt, heard, and were aware 
of nothing but rain I rain I rain I Umbrellas were a mockery and 
a snare. They seemed to act like positive conductors of the rain- 
lightnings I The very awning, which at first sheltered us, became 
a practical joke ; water-proof cloaks, tarpaulin, &;c., were mere 
straws for the drowning to catch at. 

We felt unresuscitable by all the Humane Societies on earth. 
They may recover people half or three-quartei's drowned ; but the 
utterly melted away — how could they ever restore them to sub- 
stance and life ? Water-proof I why, it seemed to rain into the 
very brain ! Nothing but watery images suggested themselves — 
Niagaras and whirlpools, twirled mops and twisting maelstroms, 



A STORM. 449 

Scotch mists and English pic-nics, doctors' strengthening draughts, 
St. Swithin 'and London milk (yclept sky-blue), soup at a French 
auberge, Whig measures, and every thing wishy-washy in the 
world, till the great globe itself appeared to be one vast moist 
sponge. 

It is, I believe, a fact that a man chemically speaking, is forty- 
five pounds of carbon and nitrogen diffused through five and a half 
pailfuls of water, under ordinary circumstances; but travelers in 
the isthmus, during the rainy season, turn to twenty pailfuls of 
water, minus the nitrogen and carbon— at least so I should say 
from appearances. Such wretched, washed-out individuals no 
fancy can picture. Nature had need to work in fast colors indeed, 
v/hen she exposes her living handiwork to such pitiless pourings. 

On we went, feeling past all drowning, dazzled by the terrific 
flashes of lightning, and half deafened by the roaring peals of long- 
reverberating thunder, like a thousand boomings of artillery. Was 
it not all a mistake % Had we sunk to the bottom of the Pacific, 
which we were so lately careering over in smiling sunshine, and 
was a naval battle raging over our heads ? Whether the glorious 
orchideous flowers were in bloom, of course, we knew not, or the 
other myriads of trailers and climbers. Whether there were as 
many decayed trees floating in the river as on our first expedition 
we knew not : — but if so our skillful boatmen avoided them 
cleverly. 

The only serious stoppage we had was coming in collision with 
a large boat full of returning Americans; our canoe was all but 
overturned. The Americans and the boatmen called for us to sit 
perfectly still, which we did. Perhaps at that moment, we 
thought to be oiiore drowned was almost an impracticability. 
People ought to traverse the Isthmus during the deluge in a div- 
ing-bell. I wonder Messrs. Rundell and Bridge's diving-appara- 
tus was not kept for that purpose. Well I we went on as before. 
However, presently we began to entertain a sort of insane idea 
that we might be more drowned still, for we found the boat was 
frightfully full of water, and sinking fast. We shrieked to the 
boatmen, and pointed out the danger ; they seized enormous cala- 
bashes, and began baihng out as fast as possible. We were so 
deep that the water of the river seemed all but pouring over the 
edge of the boat. After that, constant bailing was resorted to, and 
in due course of time we arrived safely at Chagres. 

I had much difliculty in persuading the boatmen to go to what 
is called the American Town ; they declared it was dangerous, as 



450 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

it was already dark. They seemed afraid of the boat upsetting 
at the mouth of the river. However, on reconnoitering as well as 
I could, I did not agree with them, and assured them it was quite 
" preciso" that we should go to the American hotel. After a long 
argument they consented, and in perfect safety, thank Heaven ! 
we arrived, and found the master of the hotel standing on the 
bank with a lantern, looking out for boats, as the " Crescent City" 
was to start the next morning, and passengers were still arriving . 
to go by her. 

He promised to do what he possibly could for our accommo- 
dation, and finally we were quartered in a very comfortable 
room, which an American medical gentleman was obliging enough 
to vacate on our account. We felt almost bound to have the 
Chagres fever in return for such compassionate disinterestedness — 
but we really had not time. The room was very nicely furnished, 
and its four female occupants slept most soundly till it was time 
to rise and make preparations for going on board the steamer. 

When we arrived the evening before, one of the first questions 
the master of the American hotel, and one or two other Ameri- 
cans, who came to ask for news, put to us was : " Did you see a 
dead body, tied to a raft, floating down the stream 1 I said we 
had observed nothing of the kind — indeed the rain prevented one 
from seeing any thing. He told me it was the dead body of an 
American, who had been stabbed in a quarrel with the natives, 
who refused to bury it, or allow it to be buried where the affl"ay 
had taken place, but had fastened it to a slight raft, and sent it 
drifting down the stream. " It will be here at eight o'clock to-* 
morrow morning, we expect," he added, coolly ; " and you m7ist 
have passed it on the road." I felt rather glad we had not seen 
the ghastly object. 

Some Americans, who had lately arrived at Chagres, had 
brought the tidings, and they passed it, I believe, floating steadily 
down the river. These quarrels, unfortunately, too often occur ; 
and as the Americans are generally armed to the teeth, with 
bowie-knives and revolvers, and the natives have always at hand 
the most formidable knives conceivable, about as long as a man's 
arm, with which they cut their dinner or their foes in pieces, 
lamentable results frequently take place. 

Just before we returned to Panama from Peru, a kind of battle 
had occurred between the Californiair emigrants and the Pana- 
manians. After a little time the natives, who are intrepid to the 
last degi'ee when once thoroughly aroused, cared no more for the 



QUARRELS BETWEEN AMERICANS AND NATIVES. 451 

revolvers than if they had been " cigaritos," they watched their 
opportunities, rushed boldly and rapidly up to their opponents (all 
with fire-arms in their hands), and plunged their long knives in 
their breasts. Four Americans, I was told, were left dead, and 
others grievously wounded. This was very melancholy, but I 
believe the Americans themselves say it was, in the first instance, 
the fault of their countrymen. They despise the Indians, and 
look on all colored people as " Niggers ;" as they call all Euro- 
peans, save English and French, Dutch (the Swiss, Italians, 
Portuguese, Danes, are all named alike, with one exception only — 
and that is, the Dutch themselves I They call them Hollanders). 
I was mentioning a Dutchman once in the United States, and 
called him so : I was corrected — " No I hes a Hollander." 

I think there is much that is interesting in the character of 
these Indians. Idle, dilatory, and careless, unquestionably they 
are ; but they appear thoroughly hospitable, full of frank, generous 
susceptibilities and gratitude toward those who treat them with 
conciliatorj'' gentleness and consideration. Contented and peace- 
ful, but the bravest of the brave when their blood is once up : it 
would seem the elements of a right noble character are there. I 
say this from the few opportunities of observation that I have 
had, not from any prepossession for such " children of Nature" in 
general. 

I think it is in Guiana that Humboldt mentions (in talking of 
the fancied primitive perfection of human nature) that it is cus- 
tomary, if a child is sickly, to kill it to avoid the trouble of taking 
care of it, and to prevent its being any impediment to hurried 
excursions and removals ; also, he says of twins, one is regularly 
destroyed (as it is considered infra dig. to be the parents of twins 
— and something "like rats and opossums.") "Such," exclaims 
Humboldt, highly indignant, "such is that simplicity of manners, 
such that boasted happiness of mankind in the natural state. A 
man kills his son to escape a little ridicule, or to avoid traveling 
more slowly — in fact, to get rid of a trifling inconvenience." 

We had accomplished our journey across the Isthmus in two 
days, and that in the rainy season ; and we received many com- 
pliments from the Americans on the rapidity with which we had 

made the passage. V was charmed with her ride from 

Panama to Cruces — perhaps the only person that ever was or 
ever will be. 

The Americans are so astonished at our not having been to 
California, they positively can not believe it, it appears to them 



452 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

such a pitch of preternatural stupidity. To some it was useless 
protesting we had not been, and had not intended to go. I con- 
vinced one at last ; and he said he supposed then we really had 
not been; we must have got frightened, or "sick," at Panama, 
and that made us turn back. Another, who ciA'illy refrained from 
contradicting, soon after asked : " And pray, ma'am, did you bring 
much gold dust ? or perhaps you didn't stay long enough in Cali- 
fornia." 

We found it pretty rough getting to the steamer, on the morn- 
ing of our departure from Chagres, and with considerable difficulty 
got on board. A yellowish-brown long line of demarkation shows 
where the Chagres is lost in the clear waters of the Carribbean 
Sea. We had delightful cabins, with a sitting-room, sofas, tables, 
every thing charmingly commodious and comfortable. The Cap- 
tain, who was as obliging as possible, sent us word we should not 
start till night, as he had learned many other passengers were on 
their way down the river. 

In the evening after it was dark, there was a sudden alarm. 
We heard a great scuffling, running, and shouting on deck ; and 
presently, in extreme haste, a boat was lowered and pushed off.^ 
W^e remained watching in much anxiety, fearing that some boat, 
in attempting to reach the steamer through the heavy surf, had 
been upset. After some time we were much relieved to learn 
that no lives had been lost. A canoe coming out to the '• Cres- 
cent City" had been in the greatest danger of being carried out to 
the open sea, from the boatmen having unfortunately broken their 
oars, and the boat thereby becoming unmanageable, and at the 
mercy of the waves. Had not their cries for assistance (which 
was so promptly rendered) been heard, they must doubtless have 
perished. 

There were a number of returned Californians on board. From 
the glimpses I had of them, I should say none looked particularly 
happy or thoroughly satisfied with their expedition ; one can not 
always judge from outward appearances. There were two very 
melancholy cases on board. An elderly gentleman, who had gone 
mad, after losing nearly all he possessed through some ill-fated 
speculation in California. His nephew was accompanying him 
home, and taking care of him as well as he could ; but from exposure, 
I believe, and over severe labor in the mines, he was in the last 
stage of consumption, and reduced almost to a skeleton. In this 
miserable condition of hopeless suflering, he was doomed to have 
his last days embittered by the melancholy spectacle of his afflict- 



BEAUTIFUL SUNSET. 453 

ed relative's malady, and forced to listen to his wild ravings and 
jabberings, and to have the wearying charge and responsibility of 
attending on him. 

We had a capital stewardess on board the " Crescent City," and 
I hope it will not be thought I am speaking any treason against 
British maritime supremacy, when I say I think in general the 
American steamers have better stewardesses than the English I 
On board the " Georgia" we had a charming one too, a Welsh 
woman, rejoicing in the pretty name of Annie Morgan. 

We had two very agreeable fellow-passengers on board the 
" Crescent City," in the shape of a Califbrnian squirrel and a 
Chagres monkey ; two amusing little personages they Avere. (They 
belonged to some gentleman just returned from El Dorado). The 
squirrel, tame as a kitten, was chiefly composed of two great black 
eyes and a splendid bushy tail. Jacko was the only pretty monkey 
I ever saw, and not at all mischievous. The little squirrel was 
extraordinarily fond of warmth : though the weather was almost 
insupportably hot, it would coil itself round into the very heart of 
shawls and cloaks (thrown on the sofas or camp-stools) whenever 
it wished to sleep. 

We saw a most singularly beautiful sunset one evening on our 
passage hither. The sea became of a wonderfully rich color, neither 
exactly purple, nor lilac, nor crimson, nor violet, nor rose-color, but 
an extraordinary mixture of all these, a most regal and exquisite 
hue, which I think must most nearly resemble the Tyrian purple 
of old. I never saw such a color but once or twice before, I think, 
in my life. It continued some time Avithout variation, and then 
softly died away in beautifully fine gradations.* 

It was charming, watching this and other lovely effects of morning 
and evening light, reminding us of our dehghtful Pacific days and 
evenings (though this sea was not so smooth or grand). Looking 
on such fair sights, with the many sea-noises and sea-changes 

* We afterward saw at Kingston, Jamaica, when driving one day with 
our truly kind friends Dr. and Mrs. Stewart, a far more magnificent sunset; 
one so awfully grand, that I feel it is hopeless to attempt to convey any im- 
pression of it. It was after a terrific thunder-storm. Behind the clouds, 
which were piled in mountainous masses one above the other (and still as 
if on and on, forever, showing a higher stratum of others between — height 
above height, glimpse beyond glimpse, vista behind vista), a thousand color- 
ed suns of glory seemed flashing, beaming through those wondrous and 
gorgeous transparencies. All hues were there, from the most vivid scarlet 
and burning crimson and purple, to the softest azure and palest green ; 
every shade of gold and orange, and every tint conceivable and inconceivable. 



TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



ai'ound, what dreams, what visions, what phantasies visit the 
soothed yet awakened mind 1 what a world of wonders is around 
us I how full seems all of meaning, beauty, mystery, and eloquence 
— how full indeed ! Ay, and if man could suddenly be endowed 
with a hundred additional senses beside his small allowance of 
five, he would doubtless find an endless multiplicity of objects 
around, fitted for their perception only and delight, that he has 
been unconscious of, as the blind of beauty and the deaf and dumb 
of music and sweet speech In this life mortals are prisoners in 
very narrow cells, which are furnished with very few chinks. 
But I must not even in this trifling degree, ramble from my pur- 
pose of keeping strictly to plain narrative and a matter-offact 
relation. 

When we arrived at Jamaica I was much struck by its noble 
outline of mountains. The entrance to the harbor of Kingston is 
exceedingly fine. The Blue Mountains rise in some places to about 
eight thousand feet above the level of the sea, and run longitudin- 
ally through the island from east to west. 

We have as yet seen hardly any thing of Jamaica. It seems to 
possess lovely and greatly-diversified scenery. The mountains so 
amphitheatrically encircling the fertile plains on which Kingston 
is built, we see from our windows. Our old African friend, the 
date palm, seems to flourish here. There is a fine one in one of 
the streets close to an hotel, called from it " Date-tree House ;" 
but I have seen no dates. It is probably not the season. Man- 
goes (of which the best is a sort called commonly "Number Eleven") 
abound, and are very good. There seem to be various lovely 
acacias on all sides, calabash-trees, and the pretty lignum vitee, 
with its countless heaps of little azure blossoms ; the allspice, or 
Jamaica pepper-tree, and numbers of our Isthmus vegetable friends. 
But I must wait to see more before I give any description. 

When we first landed, I was sorry to learn from the courteous 
agent of the American Steam Company here, that the Bishop has 
lately left the island, and that his daughter is very ill. 

They seem to have delicious breezes almost constantly blowing 
here, but lately it has been very dry. Last evening it rained 
heavily, and as about a hundred windows were open in ail direc- 
tions, in rushed a number of colored damsels in turbans, armed 
with divers mops, and contrivances of the kind, to wipe up purling 
rivulets that were meandering prettily about the floor (for the 
v.'indows had defied our efforts to close them ; and, besides, it was 
suffocatingly hot) and they fastened down some of the windows, 



KINGSTON. 455 



but the rain trickled abundantly through, notwithstanding. To 
our astonishment (who felt something like a party of antediluvians 
running away from the pursuing Flood ; or I should say perhaps, 
like a set of feminine Noahs, or Noah's doves, or any other inhab- 
itants of the ark, gladly escaping to the dry land), they burst out 
into joyful exclamations about the rain, congratulating themselves 
and us (on rain I) and the goats and pigs, and ducks, too, methinks, 
as they looked out of the windows — and snuffed it up as something 
rare and precious. 

One very black, smiling maiden, showing her glittering teeth 
from ear to ear, could not rejoice enough — or wish us joy enough 
of this rain (stupendous insult I) — working away very hard all the 
time to wipe away the little brooks and streamlets. " Berry nice, 
oh, berry, dis good rain." Now that is a disinterested philan- 
thropic, patriotic mortal. The more she had to labor, the more 
she liked it, for it was for the good of her country and her fellow- 
mortals I She rubbed and scrubbed, and laughed and smiled, and 
chuckled and crowed and quacked and chattered, all glee and 
good-humor, a perfect duck of a woman in two senses. Really 
the Isthmus St. Swithin had better come here to be made much of. 

I have received a most courteous and hospitable invitation from 
Sir Charles Grey, to remain at the King's House, during my stay 
in Jamaica. We shall avail ourselves of his kindness, and go there 
to-morrow. 

Kingston does not at all give me the idea of an unwholesome 
climate. I hear the cholera is committing frightful ravages at the 
Havana. Here, they say, they are not alarmed at all, as it has 
never been here, though it has before been in Cuba. I advise them 
not to be too sure yet. The cholera is said never to have passed 
the Equator, but this year it has crept very near to it, and may 
have crossed the line by this time. The last we heard of it, it 
was near Bogota, and creeping onward, it was said. 
I I found a very interesting letter here from Havana, giving me 
the particulars of the late American invasion of the island of Cuba, 
One singular fact is mentioned in it. I do not know that it has 
been remarked upon in any of the newspapers, so I repeat it. I 
am assured that it is quite correct. As soon as the alarm was 
given in Havana of the landing of General Lopez and his follow- 
ers, the cholera, which had been raging there with terrible violence, 
stopped as if by magic. The streets had been crowded with fune- 
rals ; not one was to be seen. A counter-panic chased away this 
dreadful visitor for a short space of time. After a few davs, when 



456 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

all the alarm had entirely subsided, and no further apprehensions 
were entertained — when, in short, the island and the city returned 
to their propriety, the cholera again resumed its interrupted sway. 
It might have been only a coincidence, but I think there is but 
little if any doubt that the interregnum was occasioned by that 
mental counter-irritation : the mind and imagination have so much 
to do in predisposing persons to take such disorders. 

There are numerous coolies here, male and female. These 
Hindoos are very striking and picturesque-looking people. 

Kingston looks as if it ought to be a magnificent place, and had 
once been so, but has the appearance of being not only dilapidated 
but depopulated and deserted. The chief streets are still very 
handsome, with villa-like houses, veranda'd and terraced, ruiming 
back from the road, and with gateways and gardens generally. 
The people who knew Kingston formerly mourfi over it, and say : 
" In past times, before our ruin, this main street was the gayest 
of the gay, the busiest of the busy : an incessant roll of carriages 
and sugar-laden carts resounded through it." 

The last terrible blow at the prosperity of Jamaica was the vile 
Slave-grown Sugar Bill, which combined in so remarkable a degree 
the iniquitous with the ridiculous. Poor Jamaica ! how deeply 
she has suffered I I hear that many once ricTi planters have gone 
to spend their last days in obscure corners, to starve unknown, and 
die incognito. Alas I with perhaps a curse on their lips for the 
imnatural mother-country, who has cut away the last prop and 
support from under them. If the reader wislies to Imow where 
the deepest hatred can be felt against England, let him go to her 
own ill-used colonies. I sincerely hope something may yet be done 
for this lovely, unhappy island. How we must misgovern — how 
we must have a very genius for perverting Fortune's best gifts, 
and for mismanaging those splendid possessions we acquire with so 
much labor and glory, to injure and destroy (as far as we can), 
with so much shame. When shall we, for their sake and our 
own, change our most detestable policy, or rather impolicy ? But 
I will try and turn to the beauties of nature, and not the follies of 
man, who so often defaces her noblest loveliness. 

Ever glorious is Nature ! "What wonders have we lately be- 
held of her lavish luxury of profusion, her inexhaustible treasury 
of glories and enchantments, her array of stately triumphs I What 
gratitude should glow in the heart and spirit of man M'hen looking 
on all the consummate works of Heaven, scattered with such gra- 



CREATION'S PRAISE. 457 



Clous liberality at his feet, to bless his eyes, to cheer his thoughts, 
to elevate his mind, and array his path to immortality with that 
glory which seems worthy of an immortal, making the world liko 
the vestibule of heaven for those whose thoughts draw beauty from 
beauty, and add majesty to majesty. 

But how often, when the mighty mother most appealingly calls 
on him does he turn away. Mountains and forests, lakes, savan- 
nas, clouds, flowers, stars, valleys, lightnings, seas— all mirror 
one great truth, all breathe one eternal hymn ' Nature is a per- 
petual oratorio I 

CREATION'S PRAISE. 

I. 
Immemorial gray monntain.s ! up-towering and free 
Like the hierarchs of Nature .still seem they to be ; ' 
Ah ! no Atlases bearing one Earth's pretty weight, 
All the Firmament's pride seem their burden and freight. 

II. 

All its Earths ! all its Heav'ns ! its vast galaxied field, 

Where crowned splendors on splendors shine thronged and revealed. 

Soar aloft, kingly mountains ! ay. fearless they soa? 

And sustaining that glory's dread burden, adore ! ' 

in. 
Yea they praise Thee, O Lord of those Firmaments !— Kin^r 
Of the fair worlds around, like fresh fountains that sprincr- ° 
Their pure crests seem to praise Thee, and each hallowed air. 
That awakes, like a breath fresh from Paradise, there. 

TV. 
Ocean ! glassing those heavens, and thus bringing them down 
As to blend with our world-nearer Glory and Crown ' 
Dost thou lift not thy thousand-toned voice evermore 
In strong orisons. Ocean ! from shore pealed to shore ! 

V. 

Not a murmur, a moan, but where heaven-music dwells 
Haunting thee, as thy memory, thine own rainbow'd shells ■ 
Not a wave but hath mirrored the deep-glancing scene, ' 
Where the shadows of Hosts of ImmortaTs have been ! 

VI. 

And ye, Stars ! do>e breathe not in light and in fire— 
ThL 1.°"^.. ^^5^ ^^"1 ?°™^ angel-bard's far-beaming lyre), 
That bright order, and beauty, and harmony move 
J:' or aye, m the steps of the Source of all Love ' 

U 



458 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



And thou Man ! dost thou praise Him by acts and by words ? 
Dost thou thrill to thy being's own innermost chords ? 
Doth thy soul to those long " Hallelujahs" reply, 
Rolled in thunder and flame through all Earth and all Sky? 

VIII. 

Man ! too oft while great Nature seems proffering her shrine 
For the pomp of full spirit-oblations divine ; 
From her voice, and thine own holiest happiness here, 
Thou turn'st back with weak scorn, self-unjust and severe. 



While the darkly-magnificent heavens of the night — 
While the mornmg star, heralding joyaunce and light- 
While the storms — while the seas — while the deserts and plains, 
Proclaim with eternal Hosannas, " Ho reigns !" 



The One — silent, deaf, senseless, 'midst things He hath made, 
Still seems Man ! who like monarch of all He arrayed, 
O'er whose head He stretched roofs, hung with suns and with flame, 
At whose feet such a world, his heart's homage to claim! 



Shall the universe one glorious unison be, 

AH uniting in rapture of worship, save thee? 

Shall far worlds — severed spaces — strange elements join 

In one deep diapason of homage divine ? 



And shalt thott dv^fell apart, and thy worship retain. 
Perchance for those Works that His voice did ordain, 
Perchance for thyself, and the pomps, shows, and joys 
Of the swift, arrowy life which a moment destroys. 



For those Works that are Worships themselves ! that point still 
Upward — heavenward — the children of His mighty will ! 
Works that cease not by day and by night to proclaim, 
E'en out-thundering all thunder, His praise and His Name ! 



And thyself! while each power that thou vauntest is given 
Direct from the o'erflowing rich treasuries of heaven, 
And thy fast-fleeting life is but lent thee to lead 
To the life everlasting — the true life, indeed 1 



CREATION'S PRAISE. 459 



Immemorial proud mountains ! stoop lower your crest, 
Be ashamed for the Earth and its vile human guest 1 
Billowy Ocean ! be silent ! roll onward in peace ! 
Bid your stormy, august "Hallelujahs" to cease! 



Stoop ! thou Mountain ! but not for the weight or the might 

Of the far-stretching firmaments — height piled on height ! 

Stoop ! since ev'n, from earth's floor to heaven's blue glistering roof, 

Thou still hurl'st 'gainst mankind thine all-righteous reproof! 



Hush ! thou Ocean ! but not that the songs of the spheres — 
That the strains of the blest pierce through time's rushing years! 
Hush ! since each lightest murmur of homage from thee 
Seems reproach to thy scornful clay-rulers to be. 



Be the contrast less striking — th' upbraidings less stern ! — 
Pale — ye great crowning Fires of the Firmaments ! burn, 
Pale and faint ! — so be all things less grandly sublime — 
Thus thy consciousness, Nature, shall crown not our crime '. 



Stars ! — ye heavens in the heavens ! — all of joy, love, and light — 
Hide your sovereign, sublime tribulations from sight ! 
Dare we gaze on your spheres, stirred all over with love, 
While ourselves and our brethren thus gracelessly move ? 



Thunder, Whirlwind, and Earthquake ! ye too — lords of doom !- 
Shout the march of His might, midst your grandeur of gloom ! 
Ye too lift up your voices of terror to cry, 
"Hail to Him who above all the highest is high!" 



Old war-chariots of Storm and the Whirlwinds ! delay !— 
Or bear up thousand hopes of man's soul on your way. 
Not a wind on its course of rejoicing but sings 
Of Immortal, Transcendent, Omnipotent things ! 



And on trifles and toys still we wander intent. 
And few tones with those thousand high tones have we blent I 
And we hoard in our hearts, ashy treasures and things, 
That drag earthward our souls from the joy of their wings. 



460 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



Mighty Forests ! what strength of devotion is there ! 
Lo ! their countless leaves thrill as with passionate prayer, 
While the shadows, the silence, the depths are o'erspread, 
With an hundred Great Presences, sacred and dread. 



Peace — let us only listen, and fling earth's dull cares, 
Away from our minds till they tremble to prayers ; 
And the far-sounding chorus shall evermore ring, 
Raised in honor profound of Their King, and Our King ! 



Joy — Creation's grand hymn hath ne'er ceased to be sung, 
'Tis resounded — repeated — no harp is unstrung ; 
In yon hollow-voiced thunder it lives and it rolls ; 
Joy! — if we will but listen, 'twill peal to our souls. 



Morning hymn of creation ! each cadence and word 

By the quick ear of Faith is still thrillingly heard. 

And new Birth-hymns of later Creations beside, 

That we dream not and glimpse not — swell the outpouring tide. 



Hark! 'tis "Holy!" still "Holy!" and "Holy!" again; 
Worlds commence — worlds t££ke up the Majestical Strain — 
Worlds commence — worlds continue the Wonderful Hymn, 
Till the skies and their orbs are all perished and dim ! 

XXVIII. 

The Great Truth that shone out with the rays of young light, 
It shines out still as clear, with as searching a might ; 
And can we e'er be blind to its splendors intense? 
When if we will but look, oh ! 'twill blaze to our sense. 



Watch the eagle and lark on their proud sunward flight. 
Their blue pathways all strewn o'er with gold-bloom and light ; 
Think ye they bear the freight of theii- own joy alone ? 
With earth's deep soul of prayer and of praise they have flown I 



From her hills — from her rocks — from her hoarse-sounding woods, 
From her free trackless wilds, and her loud torrent-floods ; 
Fervent breathings of strong adoration are borne, 
To ruffle the orient pavilions of morn ! 



CREATION'S PRAISE. 4Q1 



Soaring messengers ! hurrying on high to convey 
Quick jubilant hints to the blue realms of Day, 
Oh ! how dead are their hearts who no fair greetings send. 
With the punctual, plumed courier's high service to blend. 

XXXII. 

And not only the Morn and the Noon seem to bear 
A rich, deep weight of worship that halloweth the air- 
^ut the dusk, regal Night, in her mystical sway, 
A proud rivalry boasteth and challengeth Day. 

XXXIII. 

Yea ! dark, gorgeous, magnificent heavens of Old Night 
Where Time's self seems Eternity, shown us aright ; 
f ". thy Suns have their Uriels, and breathe far around 
L,olty tidings for souls not in death-trance profound. 

XXXIV. 

To the Sabaoth of Systems in aw.^ul array 
Beleaguering our dull sense— enlightning 'our way 
Shall Indifference dare still her base weapons oppose. 
And confront the confederate Creations as foes ? 



XXXV. 



Glorious Nature ! too oft man deals death on his soul- 
Thought and mmd-wrenched from thy solemn, life-fuU control- 
With dim ashes strewn o'er them-vile taints, chains andTars 
Through that dark vale of shadows, where gl de our vTn yelS 



XXXVI. 



From thy shrine, mightiest mother, they turn, and forsake 
All thy haunts-all thy ho^vds-thy great compact they break 
Hoi ow sepulchres then of themselvet e'en they seem- 
Ah ! no temple of Thee, and no palace of Dream ' 



XXXVII. 



Then high Visions forsake them, and splendors of thought. 
With immortal delights and rich promises fraught • ^^ 
Queen !-thy kingdoms, illustrious with treasure -l-no more 
Then imparadise life with their fresh, boundless s ore 



XXXVIII. 



The Immemorial Gray Mountains are dust in their sight 
^.i ■'•"'T""'^ Constellations seem emptied of Wh ^ ' 
Dead hes Ocean !-for them Heaven is furied as a scroll 
Nature 1-know thine Unbuilder !-a world-strTcke 1 Soi 



Soul! 



462 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 



XXXIX. 



Where should be thy throne is thy sepulchre cold, 
And not there spread thy banners and pageants unrolled 
But a deep funeral darkness, or vapory display, 
Of the gauds of a moment — the pomps of a day I 



XL. 



And the Mountains still point to the Firmaments far — 
And those Firmaments tremble with star linked to star; 
And still Deep cries to Deep, and the Clouds and the Storms, 
All repeat awful tidings — reflect mystic forms. 



And ten thousand great scnemes and vast systems around 
In one broad Act of Homage incessant, are bo;And ; 
" Dust to dust !" ever darkens our brief earthly day — 
Worlds on Worlds ever beckon us upward — 9 way ! 



Wake ! Man ! Populations and nations, awake ! 
Your glad part in the unbounded, dread chorus to take ; 
They have ages to breathe Adoration's high strain — 
Ye have hours — and thus dare ye unquickened remain ? 



Join the nymn ! swell the unbounded, undying acclaim : 
Glory, honor, and praise to the One glorious Name : 
While all majesties, powers, thrones, existences tend 
To Truth's bright consummation — still world without end. 



While on universe — universe heaped and amassed, 
Burst and bound to proud being and birth, free and fast — 
That yet all, the grand anthem of all, thus may join, 
And exalt their great Maker's dread honors divine ! 



Ay ! on universe — universe gathered and heaped 

To their life of stupendous transcendence have leaped; 

Till — (while each lauds His glory, with powers more supreme), 

Some New Chaos of very Creations they seem. 



Even a Chaos of very Creations! — so blent 
In unknown complications, through th' endless extent. 
Lord of Lords ! Oh ! thou God of all Gods ! they can ba 
But the veriest faint shade of a shadow of Thee ! 



CREATION'S PRAISE. 463 



Ah ! as far as our frail, fettered senses allow, 

Let us gaze on the scenes of their wonders e'en now, 

Where the heavens burn with stars — maze thick crowded on maze, 

Till All Space Co One Sun seems to brighten and blaze. 



Oratorio of Nature ! Oh, strike our dull ears ! 

With our souls let us list to your anthems, ye spheres ; 

Let your sun-blazoned oriflammes lead us on — on, 

Till Earth's conflict is o'er, and Heaven's victory is won ! 



Is't enough ? Oh, if not, look, thou mortal, within, 

Through those deep mists of doubt — through the dark clouds of sin ; 

And behold the vast scene of thine own awful soul, 

To the ken of a hushed contemplation unroll ! 



THE END 



